Without right assembled frame drywall will not last long. The strength and reliability of walls, ceilings, arches, shelves and other structures made of gypsum plasterboard, so beloved, depend on the frame professional builders and for amateurs.

To ensure that the repair does not turn out to be a trivial waste of money, competent implementation of the recommendations and advice of the experts on installing the frame is required.

Today, two methods of installing drywall using a frame are used - on a wooden beam and a metal profile. Each of them has advantages and disadvantages, but the right approach Using both methods, the desired end result is achieved.

Repair using gypsum plasterboard

Timber is selected for work when there is excess wood good quality. Although it is believed that a frame made from it is cheaper, in reality this is not entirely true - wood becomes more expensive every year.

Timber as a material for a frame under plasterboard is used in rooms with moderate humidity and normal temperature conditions. It is dried well, and installation begins after treatment with an antiseptic. In this regard, the profile is more advantageous: it does not rot, it will not be beaten by shashel, it is not afraid of temperature changes, it will not get wet, crack or dry out.

A sheet of plasterboard on a frame made of timber holds tighter, since the screws cling to the wood with all the threads and fit more tightly. The profile version loses a little in this regard, but the issue can be resolved by installing self-tapping screws more often.

The timber frame is environmentally friendly, but metal profile durable, easier to install, and the material for it can be bought at any store. At the same time, elements of frame structures are offered in an assortment. You don’t have to invent your own - everything is standard.

Tools for constructing frames

When planning a frame made of wooden slats, prepare the following tools:

• Saw.
• Jigsaw.
• Hammer.
• Screws and nails.
• Reiki - timber.
• Metal corner.

Profile types

If the frame is made of a profile, then find scissors or a hacksaw. In any case, you cannot do without a level, plumb line, or rules. In addition, you will need:

• Screwdriver;
• Dowels;
• Drill or hammer drill;
• Self-tapping screws for metal;
• Sealing tape;
• Pencil or marker;
• Connectors of different types;
• Suspensions;
• Profiles.

Installation of a wooden frame under gypsum boards

The cross-section of the beam must be no less than 40 by 70 mm for vertical and support slats and 30 by 50 mm for horizontal ones. Wood moisture content does not exceed 15%. Preferred material selection coniferous species tree.

Work begins with a sketch of a diagram indicating the location of door and window openings. Then count required quantity sheets of plasterboard, after which installation begins support beams lathing to the floor and ceiling.

Installation begins from the floor using dowels or nails if the house is wooden. The next stage is the installation of vertical struts, between which horizontal ones are then mounted. Vertical posts are installed in increments of 60 cm.

Horizontal ones are nailed on top of the vertical posts, then vertical ones again, and so on. Horizontal ones are also placed in increments of 60 cm. Each row of lathing is checked for verticality and plane with a level. Level the position of the lower beam on the floor by placing pieces of wood. The correct position of the wall plane is also adjusted.

It’s easier to immediately assemble the frame directly on the floor of the room, if its size allows. In this case, its width should be 1 cm less than the actual width of the wall.

Wooden frame for gypsum plasterboard

Metal frame elements

The basis is profiles - guides (UD) and carriers (CD). The first ones are needed to create the outline of the frame for drywall. They play the role of a “foundation” into which the supporting profile is inserted and secured, into which the gypsum board is already placed.

The guide profile is standard with a width of 2.5 cm and a length of 3 meters. It is important to pay attention to its thickness - the strength of the frame depends on it. The thicker one is suitable for walls, and the thinner one is suitable for ceilings. The supporting profile has a wide shelf (6 cm), a depth of 2.5 cm and a length of 3 or 4 meters. Issued from sheet metal of different thicknesses, which also affects the strength of the structures being constructed.

The rack profile is used only for the wall frame. Ceiling, corner and arched profiles are used in the construction of appropriate plasterboard structures. Arched with cutouts for easy bending. The width of these profiles varies from 5 to 15 cm.

The main types of self-tapping screws used in assembling frame structures are fasteners with a length of 9.5 mm (“fleas” - with sharp tips), 25 and 35 mm. It is recommended to take galvanized steel, that is, white.

Suspensions are used straight - U-shaped. They are also chosen with galvanization. There is also a so-called quick suspension. The design of this element allows you to adjust the height of the ceiling plane. Used exclusively when installing ceiling frames.

The connecting element is a “crab” or cross-shaped connector. It is used to connect transversely located profiles (crosswise). A straight connector is used to extend the rail.

Metal frame for gypsum plasterboard

Installation of a metal frame under gypsum boards

They start with markings. First, the position lines of the supporting profile on the floor and ceiling are determined and drawn. For this it is better to use laser level. The lines are spaced from the load-bearing surfaces by approximately 10 cm. The value depends on the thickness of the profile, sheet of drywall, communications, thermal insulation and curvature of the walls.

Now install the guide profiles. They are fastened with dowels in increments of no more than a meter. Next, mark the position of the supporting profiles on the wall. They are located every 60 cm.

If increased rigidity is needed, then the installation step should be reduced to 40 cm.

After this, hangers are installed. They start from the floor at a height of 15 cm and then upward in increments of no more than 1 m. Masters advise placing every 60 cm. standard wall with a height of 2.5 m there will be three or four suspensions. They are also fastened with dowels, preferably with a size of 6x60 mm. Next insert vertical racks into the guides and secure them with small self-tapping screws (9.5 mm).

In the video you can see the option of assembling the frame for gypsum boards:

The next step is to tighten the thread, which will show how much each rack profile is extended or recessed into the plane. The threads are stretched between the outer posts at the level of the suspensions. It is necessary to adjust the position of the vertical profiles relative to the thread and screw them to the hangers. After this, the plane is checked using the two-meter rule.

The installation is completed by installing horizontal jumpers. They can be made from a rack profile. Start installation from the bottom. The first one should be 25 cm from the floor, the subsequent ones should be every 40-60 cm. During the installation process, the ears of the connecting “crabs” are immediately bent and screwed to the profile.

The frame is ready. Now they begin to install the slabs, then prepare them for finishing and cladding. The process is simple, but requires attention to detail and meticulousness. Only then will design ideas not be wasted. Whichever option you choose: or metal, the main thing is to install it carefully and slowly so that it is level.

A properly made wooden frame for drywall is in no way inferior in reliability load-bearing structure made from metal profiles.

Gypsum plasterboard sheets (GKL) are quite complex material composite type. It is made from plaster, cardboard and various additives. The latter give drywall special qualities. The main ones are high fire safety and excellent sound insulation. In addition, when using plasterboard, a minimum of dirt and waste is generated. This distinguishes it favorably from other construction activities.

Plasterboard sheets are manufactured in three types:

• standard;
• fire resistant;
• moisture resistant.

Species plasterboard sheets

GCR is used for the construction of partitions in residential and office premises, finishing walls and ceiling surfaces. Some modern manufacturers (for example, KNAUF) established in recent years production of special plasterboard, ideal for finishing floors. Due to the fact that gypsum plasterboard does not emit harmful compounds during operation (the material is considered environmentally friendly) and is characterized by an acidity index approximately identical to the acidity of human skin, it is often used for repair work in residential buildings.

Among other things, drywall is capable of creating an optimal microclimate in living rooms. It can naturally regulate the humidity in them. Nowadays, plasterboard sheets are almost indispensable for performing various types repair work. They are made from them simple designs, and luxurious multi-level buildings. Due to this, you can create the most modern, bright and original design in your home.

There are the following technologies for installing plasterboard sheets: frameless and frame. In the first case, sheet products are attached to the wall using an adhesive. The second technology involves the preliminary arrangement of a special frame. Drywall is subsequently attached to it.

The frameless method makes it possible to save room space. Its significant drawback is that installation of gypsum boards is allowed only on flat wall. But using the frame method, drywall can be attached to surfaces that have bulges and depressions. But at the same time, the total volume of the room becomes smaller.

Frameless method of installing gypsum boards

Frame technology for installing gypsum boards is a minimum construction dust. You do not need to make grooves in the wall for laying electrical wiring and other household communications; all systems are placed in the free space between the skeleton of the structure and the wall surface.

The frame for the subsequent installation of plasterboard sheets on the wall can be easily built with your own hands. A home craftsman with minimal experience in carrying out repair activities will build a skeleton for a plasterboard in a matter of hours. And then he will also quickly attach drywall to a self-made structure.

In most cases, the frame is made of metal profile products. But there is a technique that is easier to implement. It makes it possible to build skeletons for gypsum boards from lightweight and easy-to-install wooden products (slats, beams). We will talk about this method of creating a frame structure for drywall with your own hands.

It is recommended to build the frame for attaching gypsum boards to the wall from coniferous wood. In this case, the wood must have a moisture content in the range of 12–18%, and also undergo special fire retardant treatment at the manufacturer of the beams or slats. It is also recommended to additionally apply antiseptic agents to wooden products. This treatment will protect the frame from:

• rodents (the smell of antiseptic is good at repelling mice and other living creatures that can damage the structure);
• mold and fungal microorganisms that destroy wood;
• wood-boring insects;
• biological natural decay.

You can do antiseptic protection of wood yourself. For these purposes, you can use sodium fluoride. It is sold as a light gray fine powder. You will need to stir the purchased mixture in well-heated (but not boiling) water (35–40 g of the drug per 1 liter of liquid). Then treat all elements of the future frame for drywall with the resulting composition.

Sodium fluoride for antiseptic protection of wood

Fluoride antiseptic easily penetrates into wooden products and is practically not washed out of them. It is important that it is non-toxic to humans, has no odor, and does not decompose during use. Working with such a composition is simple and safe. An almost complete analogue of fluoride is sodium fluoride. It is allowed to purchase such a drug. But before use you should add a little soda ash (soda ash).

It is impossible to carry out antiseptic treatment of wood with compositions containing the following components:

• anthracene oils;
• coal;
• creosote;
• slate.

The effect of their use will be good. But they are harmful to human health, as they are recognized as toxic substances. Advice from the pros! Before arranging the frame for installing drywall on the wall, be sure to give wooden products rest in the room where you will build the structure. In 48–72 hours, the wood will fully adapt to humidity and temperature conditions. This process in the language of specialists is called tree acclimatization.

The structure we are interested in is made from wooden blocks or slats of different sections - from 3x5 cm to 5x6 cm. The specific dimensions of the lumber are selected taking into account the expected load on the frame. All work is carried out using the most common construction tools– hacksaws or saws, electric drills, screwdrivers, screwdrivers, level. Nails and mounting dowels are used as fastening elements.

Important point! GKL is mounted on a frame structure in cases where the wall surfaces are characterized by poor-quality coating (plaster or other) and significant roughness. It is also advisable to install such a structure when finishing walls in rooms with a height of 3 meters or more. Implementation adhesive technology installing gypsum boards with your own hands in such high rooms is considered impractical by professionals.

Installation of gypsum boards on a frame structure

A wooden frame on the wall is created according to the following scheme:

1. Analyze the condition of the wall surface. Fill any irregularities found with putty (plaster), and clean areas with peeling old coating.
2. Mark the wall. Carry out this operation with strict adherence to levels and angles (use measuring tools).
3. The horizontal beam is installed first. It should be secured to the floor base with anchors.
4. Attach vertically to installed beam wooden slats. They should be approximately 1 cm from the edge of the sheathing. The distance between individual vertical elements is 60 cm.
5. Check with a level that the slats are positioned correctly.
6. Install the second horizontal element on the ceiling.

Before proceeding with the installation of gypsum boards, the frame should be leveled. If the floors in the room are uneven, the correct position of the horizontal beam can be set by placing pieces of wood or scraps of wood chips under it. After leveling the skeleton, firmly fasten all its parts. That's all the assembly technology wooden frame on the wall. Feel free to start installing gypsum boards on your hand-made skeleton.

Installation of plasterboard sheets should begin from the window or doorway of the room or from its far corner. GKL are fastened with self-tapping screws on wood. The installation step for hardware is 25 cm. It is recommended to use self-tapping screws no longer than 3.5 cm.

Installing plasterboard sheets on a wooden frame

Important note: if you are installing moisture-resistant sheets, it is better to secure them to the frame with serrated galvanized nails. Place the first self-tapping screw (nail) at a distance of 1.5 cm from the edge of the uncoated edge of the gypsum board (1 cm from the lined one). Another subtlety of the work is that when fixing drywall, it is necessary to move from one edge of the sheet to the other. In this case, the installation of products is carried out end-to-end. Special edges are provided on the end parts of the gypsum boards. Using them, you can subsequently easily fill in the gaps between the products (first prime them and then treat them with putty).

Let us finally add that fasteners must be installed as carefully as possible. Make sure that the heads of nails or screws do not pierce the front side of the gypsum board. Such fasteners hold sheets very poorly. Over time, plasterboard products will begin to move and become loose, which, quite possibly, will lead to the destruction of the entire structure.

Organizing the installation of a profile under plasterboard with your own hands involves carrying out a whole series of operations related to the preparation reliable foundation For plasterboard covering. To solve the problem, you can use one of the most common methods, namely frameless and frame technologies laying plasterboard sheets.

Elements of frame structures

The essence of the frameless method of laying drywall is to glue sheets of material onto absolutely smooth surface using special gypsum glue. Modern technologies arrangement decorative coatings involve the preparation of a frame structure from profiles, which is then sheathed with sheets of plasterboard. To assemble such structures, special supporting profiles are used, as well as fasteners of one kind or another. In construction practice, there are several types of profiles used for arranging sheathing for plasterboard:

• SV profiles (vertical or rack-mount) used for the manufacture of partitions;
• guide profiles of the UV and UD types, used as horizontal elements frame;
• ceiling profiles SD, intended for the manufacture of frame bases.

In addition, to prepare the frame you will definitely need the following connecting elements:

• U-shaped hangers used to fix SD profiles on the mounted base;
• cross-type connectors used for cross-connecting LED profiles located on the same level;
• U-shaped connectors used for cross-connecting LED profiles located at different levels;
• T-shaped hanging brackets with special clamps, used for arranging the frame of a suspended ceiling.

Before installing profile structures, the locations of the guides of the future frame are marked, which determine the positioning of the entire structure as a whole. After marking is completed, the guides are attached to load-bearing foundation using dowels, and then connected to each other using self-tapping screws. Note that the preparation of the frame for drywall is carried out when arranging structures of the following type:

• single-level suspended ceiling frame;
• two-level suspended frame;
• wall partitions with one or two rows of racks.

Let's consider each of these options for arranging the frame in more detail.

Single-level and two-level suspended frames

Single-level frame construction It is usually used in cases where, after manufacturing a suspended ceiling, it is desirable to maintain the given height of the room. During the installation process, the frame elements are attached to the ceiling base using special hanging brackets, while transverse guides are placed in the spaces between the main profiles. Standard LED ceiling profiles are used as base guides, fastened together with cross-shaped connectors.

Installation of the suspended part of the system begins with the installation of UD profiles along the perimeter of the room on its walls (departure from the ceiling or depth suspended structure selected according to location). Note that the correct installation of UD profiles should be checked using a building level of one type or another.

After the wall structural elements are secured, you can proceed to the installation of the main guides, the ends of which are fixed in the recesses of the UD profiles. After they are secured, it will be possible to work on the transverse guides, installed in increments of 40-50 cm. The main guides are usually installed every 50-100 cm.

Assembling the frame for two-level ceiling It is done in exactly the same way with the only difference that the transverse guides are transferred to another level. In this case, U-shaped connectors are used to attach them to the main guides at the intersection points. When arranging such ceilings, sheets of plasterboard are laid along the line of the main guides.

Frames for partitions

In this case, installing a profile under plasterboard with your own hands begins with installing and fixing on the walls the already familiar HC guides, which form the piping of the future partition. In the recesses of the profile trim with a step of 30-50 cm, the CB profiles (rack-mount elements) are fixed strictly vertically.

In order to improve the sound insulation of the structure, the fastening points of all its elements are sealed with a special insulating tape. Double frame is performed in the same way, but in this case two rows of profiles are installed, which are then sheathed with plasterboard.

Video

We present to your attention a video about the installation of a wall profile frame:

Photo

The work of creating a frame from a metal profile for plasterboard is perceived by many as a very simple undertaking that does not require compliance with certain rules. Because of this, situations arise in which the created surface from gypsum board slabs ends up with numerous shortcomings, to eliminate which a lot of effort and financial costs have to be made.

Of course, the work itself is not that difficult. Literally anyone can cope, but there are some nuances that must be taken into account. And also carry out the installation steps correctly.

There are two main materials for the construction of the sheathing - wooden beams and metal profiles. It is the second type of material that is most preferable.

A metal profile is such due to certain characteristics:

• For the most part (with proper storage and transportation) it does not have any disadvantages (curvature). But, if you choose timber, you will have to sort through a lot of material.
• Metal elements can be used in almost any room, and also not pay attention to temperature fluctuations. This means that the surface will not be deformed.
• Galvanized parts can last a very long time. Therefore, they can be used even in rooms with a lot of moisture. They are also not exposed to fungi and rot.
• For fastening the profile there are various elements, which allow you to create a reliable and strong structure.

Material selection

It is worth paying attention to the choice necessary materials, especially when choosing sheathing parts. There are the following types of profiles that allow you to create a frame for plasterboard walls:

1. Guide (PN). This element is intended to create a structure that will serve to secure the rack profile. It is the fastening of this type of profile that will determine how the surface will look in the future.
2. Rack-mount (PS). Used to create lathing or other partitions. It can be given various curvilinear options.

Parts for ceiling structures: ceiling profile (PP), ceiling guide profile (PNP).

You should also consider using the following additional elements:

• Corner profile (PU). Maybe external and internal.
• Arched profile (PA). Used to create arches.
• Suspension (U-shaped). Used for fastening structures to walls and ceilings.
• Connector (“Crab”). Very convenient for fastening perpendicular parts together.
• Extension. Connects different profile sections together.
• Dowel and screws (for metal).

It is at this stage that many people do very important mistake. It consists in acquiring a non-specialized profile. Namely, they confuse ceiling elements with wall elements.

Necessary tool

Naturally, the fastening metal frame under drywall it is simply impossible without using special tools. But don’t worry, every home craftsman will always have everything you need.

What you will need:

1. A jigsaw with metal files or scissors for cutting galvanized steel.
   

   Attention! It’s worth noting right away that you can’t use an angle grinder. The reason is quite simple. The torque of such a tool is very high, and the galvanized profile is quite thin. Because of this, the material being cut quickly heats up and becomes deformed. The destruction of the protective layer and the appearance of rust will also follow.

2. Plumb and level (or more modern electronic devices). Only the use of these devices allows you to create an even frame from a metal profile.
3. Ruler, tape measure and pencil (marker).
4. Drills or hammer drills for creating holes in walls. Their choice depends on the surface material. And also do not forget about drills or drills.
5. A set of screwdrivers better screwdriver. If you have the necessary skills, you can also use a drill (by setting the required power).

Installation work

Everything you need is prepared, the tool is waiting in the wings. It seems that work can already begin. After all, the sooner you start, the sooner everything will end, but there’s no need to rush. First you need to decide what events will be held. Installation of the frame has features when different types work.

Installation of the frame for creating partitions from gypsum plasterboard has significant differences from installing lathing for plasterboard wall coverings

Walls

In principle, working with walls is considered the easiest. This is where it is best to start, if this does not conflict with the stages of repair work.

Advice! To avoid unpleasant (rattling) noise that may occur after installing a metal sheathing, sealing tape is glued between the surface and the guides.

Let's get started:

Suspensions have the peculiarity of extending beyond the profile. That is, protruding “ears” are formed. They need to be bent. This should be done inward so as not to interfere with the installation of gypsum plasterboards.

If it is necessary to give the frame under plasterboard additional rigidity, then horizontal ties are used for this. They are easy to make from the profile itself, which is cut into right size(with a small margin). Pay attention to their fastening.

They often do this:

1. Using metal scissors, cut the ends of the profile along the edges.
2. The ribs are bent. Through them, the ties are screwed to the racks. The central section remains without a self-tapping screw, otherwise you will end up with a bump.

Partitions

These structures are created to divide the room, as well as to completely separate one from the other. In principle, the work scheme is similar to that presented above, but there are some technical features.

Features of creating door and window openings

A frame made of metal profiles for drywall often requires the creation of various openings in it. Doors are handled as follows:

• The door frame is being assembled. In which, first, the door leaf is hung. To set the necessary gaps (after all, the box is not secured), insert wedges from fiberboard or hardboard.
• Now they begin to place the racks that are adjacent to the doorway. They are placed vertically and reinforced with wooden beams. Apply polyurethane foam and tighten the box with self-tapping screws.

Note! The described method is quite labor-intensive; it is more suitable for cases where the doorway was not provided for in advance. Therefore, it is better to spend time on preliminary calculations and markings, as well as determine the size door leaf. Then you can immediately create a doorway (with the necessary margin) and quickly install a door in it.

When creating a light window, there are the following features:

1. You need to install two horizontal lintels(top and bottom).
2. It is better to make vertical racks with wooden inserts.

Measures to strengthen the frame and improve sound insulation

It is worth noting that a simple sheathing does not have sufficient rigidity. Therefore, if necessary, you need to strengthen it. This is usually needed in rooms where furniture will be placed on the walls.

The easiest ways:

• Instead of SP and NP of 50 mm, they take 75 or 100 mm.
• Reduce the pitch between the posts.
• Vertical elements are installed in pairs.
• Mortgages in the form of wooden beams are used.

Note! If possible, then use a completely different option. Namely, plasterboard is laid on the frame in two layers. In this case, the seams of the first layer are overlapped.

Attention is also paid to sound insulation. The fact is that the hollow frame gives a significant sound effect.

1. Mineral wool is placed in the frame. Therefore, the pitch of the vertical posts and lintels is immediately determined.
2. When creating partitions, a double-sided frame is made. Then each gypsum board slab is attached to its own side of the sheathing.

Any work requires care, even if it seems that making a frame for drywall is very simple.

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Frame made from a profile for plasterboard: components and installation procedure

This article is about what and how to assemble a frame from a profile for plasterboard. In it I will describe the procedure of work, the design of the frames and the tools used in their assembly. Let's start, however, with why the galvanized profile is optimal material for lathing.

Why profile

When assembling the frame, we have to choose between an inexpensive bar with a section of 40x40 - 50x50 mm and a profile. I strongly recommend choosing this profile for the following reasons:

• He always has perfect geometry. The block usually has to be sorted out, and a significant part of the material is wasted due to bends and “propellers”;
• Geometry and dimensions of galvanized steel part remain constant with any fluctuations in humidity. Wood swells in damp weather (this is, in particular, associated with rubbing wooden door jambs on rainy days) and warps when drying. Deformation of the frame often leads to the appearance of cracks in the drywall at the seams;

Reinforcement of seams solves the problem only with minor deformations. Significant bending of the block will inevitably lead to damage to the final finish.

• Galvanization in residential premises serves indefinitely. The timber cannot boast of this: mold, rot and insects often lead to the loss of strength of the structure or even its destruction after 10-15 years.
  Of course, methods for protecting wood from these factors exist (for example, sequential impregnation with an antiseptic and drying oil), but they deprive wood of its main advantage - low cost - and significantly increase the time spent on assembling the frame or sheathing.

Materials

Profiles

Now let’s talk about what types of galvanized profiles can be found on sale.

To assemble battens and frames, only four types are usually used:

The length of the guide profiles is 3 meters, rack and ceiling profiles are 3 or 4 meters.

In addition, if desired, you can find in construction stores:

• Corner perforated profile for strengthening the corners of walls and partitions;

• Flexible profile for arches and vaults.

Accessories

Direct hangers are used to attach the ceiling profile to capital structures. The ears of the U-shaped suspension are equipped with perforations and are attached to the side walls of the CD.

Direct suspension. The price of the product is 4 rubles, the estimated load is 40 kilograms, packaging is 100 pieces per bag.

To connect the frame elements to each other, metal screws 9 mm long are used.

When installing guide profile hangers to solid walls and ceilings, dowel-screws measuring 6x60 or 8x80 mm are used. The size of the fastener depends, first of all, on the material of the capital structures: longer dowel-screws are useful for thick layers of loose plaster.

Tools

What tools will be required to assemble a frame from a drywall profile?

• Metal shears are needed for cutting galvanized steel;

Sometimes it is cut with a grinder and a metal wheel, but this is not entirely correct. Heating during abrasive cutting causes the zinc coating to burn out, and the edge of the profile begins to rust in a humid environment.

• Level and plumb. They are needed to orient the frame elements in strictly horizontal and vertical positions;
• Square, tape measure, long ruler and pencil for marking;
• A hammer drill with a drill for drilling holes for dowel screws;
• Screwdriver. It is absolutely unrealistic to screw in several hundred metal screws with your own hands using a screwdriver.

A screwdriver is the main tool for working with drywall and galvanized profiles.

Installation

What are the most common scenarios a new builder encounters when working with drywall?

• WITH wall cladding(by leveling their surface along the frame);
• With installation of internal partitions(solid, with door or window openings, with shelves and niches);
• With assembly suspended ceilings (horizontal, inclined and multi-level);

The photo shows a slanted plasterboard ceiling in my attic.

• WITH boxes for risers, combs (horizontal intra-apartment sewerage), air ducts, etc.

Let's figure out how to make a frame in each of these cases.

Wall cladding

1. Mark the position of the frame border. In general, the closer the guide profile is to the main wall, the better: so the costs usable area rooms will be minimal. An exception is cases when the space between the main wall and the cladding is used for laying communications large diameter(sewage, air ducts) or to create niches.
   The markings are first made on the floor, then transferred to the ceiling using a plumb line, after which lines on the walls are drawn between the marks on horizontal surfaces along a long ruler or a profile pressed against the wall;

1. We fasten the UD ceiling guide profile along the entire perimeter of the wall with dowel screws in increments of 50-60 cm;

Captain Obvious suggests: if there is a doorway in the wall, a gap is left in the lower part of the guide along the entire width of the opening.

1. The position of the ceiling profiles is marked on the main wall. They are usually mounted vertically. The step between the longitudinal axes of adjacent CDs must be exactly equal to 60 centimeters: then the seams between adjacent gypsum board sheets (let me remind you, standard width sheet of drywall equal to 120 centimeters) will fall in the middle of the profile;

A pair of additional CDs are installed at the edges of the doorway, connected at the top by a jumper made of the same profile. They will allow you to sheathe slopes.

1. Along each line, in increments of 80 cm, straight hangers are attached with dowel screws;

1. Then the ceiling profiles are cut to length and inserted into the guides along the marking lines;
2. The ears of the suspensions are attracted to the profile aligned along the edge of the ruler or according to the rule with self-tapping screws 9 mm long. The free parts of the ears are bent towards the wall.
3. Each CD is attached to the UD at the top and bottom with a pair of metal screws. This completes the assembly of the frame; you can proceed to covering it with plasterboard.

If the height of the wall exceeds the length of the gypsum board, at the junction of the whole sheet with the additional one, it is worth providing a horizontal jumper from the same CD. When the edges of adjacent sheets are attached to a common profile, the likelihood of cracks appearing along the seam is minimal. However, in the upper part of the wall, where the cladding does not experience deforming loads, with high-quality reinforcement of the seams, you can do without jumpers.

Partition

When assembling a partition, the arrangement of a frame made of a metal profile for plasterboard is noticeably different from that described above: UW guide profiles and CW rack profiles are used.

Here step by step instructions for frame installation:

1. Along the perimeter of the partition, guides are attached to the capital structures. For fastening, dowel screws with a hose of the same 50 - 60 centimeters are used. If a doorway is provided in the partition, in this case a gap is left in the lower guide along its entire width;
2. In increments of exactly 60 centimeters, racks from the CW profile cut to the required length are inserted into the lower and upper guides. It is better to take height measurements for each rack separately: differences in the distance between floor slabs can be measured in centimeters;

When marking the position of the racks, make marks not on the profile, but on the surfaces of the floor and ceiling at a slight distance from the guide. These marks will help you find the studs when sheathing the frame with drywall.

1. Each rack is attached to the guides with metal screws.

Doors, windows

Installation in a partition deserves a separate description.

It is performed at the frame assembly stage in the following order:

1. The door leaf is hung on hinges and wedged into the box with cardboard folded in several layers, scraps of hardboard, plywood or wood chips. This is necessary so that the door does not rub the jambs after installation;
2. One of the racks adjacent to the doorway is installed in a strictly vertical position and attached to the guides;
3. A strip is applied to it polyurethane foam or sealant, after which the stand is attached to the door frame with self-tapping screws 16 - 25 mm long in increments of no more than 50 cm;
4. On the opposite side, a second stand is attached in a similar way;
5. Both racks are connected by a horizontal jumper from the same CW profile. Method of attachment to a horizontal crossbar door frame- the same.

A skylight (for example, in a bathroom wall) is mounted in the same way. There are only two differences:

• For obvious reasons, a gap in the bottom guide is not needed;
• There are two horizontal jumpers between the posts - at the top and bottom of the window opening.

Arches

The arch frame is bent from a special flexible profile, as well as from a guide or rack cut in increments of 10-15 cm. The arch becomes rigid during the process of covering the gypsum board; additional reinforcing bridges between the elements of its frame are possible, but not required.

Gain

In rooms with significant loads on the walls (in an apartment this is primarily the hallway and kitchen), they need a reinforced frame. Rigidity with respect to horizontal loads is achieved, first of all, by increasing the width of the rack and guide profile from 50 to 75 or 100 millimeters. If this is not desirable due to small area premises, you can make the frame as strong as possible in other ways:

• Reducing the step between the posts from 60 to 40 centimeters;
• By connecting rack profiles in pairs;
• Putting it in the racks wooden mortgages— bars with a section of 50x50 mm.

In addition: if the expected loads on the walls are significant, they are sheathed with plasterboard in two layers. Sheets of the first and second layers are attached with the obligatory overlap of horizontal and vertical seams. The first layer is fastened with self-tapping screws 25 mm long at the rate of 20 - 30 pieces per sheet, the second - with self-tapping screws 45 mm long at the rate of 50 - 70 pieces per sheet.

Noise insulation

A hollow gypsum board partition has an unpleasant feature: it acts as a resonator, amplifying sound vibrations. Soundproofing a wall requires an integrated approach:

• Placed under the guide profile damper tape, which will eliminate the transmission of low-frequency vibrations to capital structures. Instead, you can use foamed polyethylene cut into strips of appropriate width;
• The frame is filling mineral wool. It is better to use glued slabs measuring 1000x600 mm: they will fit between the posts without being cut in width, and will not cake, leaving voids in the wall filling;

• Finally, most effective solution— acoustically decouple the surfaces of the partition from each other, creating two independent frames for them. In this case, along the perimeter of the partition on minimum distance two guide profiles are mounted apart from each other; the racks are installed in them in a checkerboard pattern so that each rack is in contact with only one side of the skin.

Captain Obviousness suggests: in this case, the thickness of the partition will increase to at least 100 millimeters.

Shelves, niches

To place niches or shelves in the partition, we will also have to build two independent frames. The basis of the shelves are horizontal jumpers between the posts made of CW profile. When the partition thickness is more than 15-20 centimeters, the shelves are reinforced with additional jumpers between the two frames.

Suspended ceiling

How to properly make a frame from a plasterboard profile when installing a suspended ceiling?

General principles of frame assembly single-level ceiling- the same as when facing a wall with plasterboard: a ceiling and guide are used ceiling profiles; CDs are attached to the ceiling or beams with direct hangers.

There are, however, differences:

• It is better to reduce the step between the hangers to 60 cm, which will eliminate the possibility of the ceiling sagging;
• It is advisable to align ceiling profiles not along a ruler or edge of another profile, but along several guide threads stretched across them. First, the CDs are pressed to the ceiling with the curved ears of the suspensions, then they are released one by one and aligned in horizontal plane along the thread and are finally attached to the suspension.

If the ceiling is multi-level, the difference can be created in several ways:

• By combining straight hangers and extended hangers with spokes;

• Using rack and guide profiles. CW is used as vertical posts, and UW connects them and provides attachment to the floor;

• Finally, with a small room height, the higher part of the ceiling is made of plaster or leveled with plasterboard, fixed to the ceiling surface with gypsum glue and (temporarily) with dowel screws.

The last case is worth examining separately. The gypsum board is attached in the following order:

1. The surface of the rough ceiling is cleaned of low-adhesive coatings (flaking plaster, whitewash, paint, etc.);

Hint: plaster and whitewash can be removed with a hard steel spatula without raising dust if you first soak it with water. To do this, the ceiling is wetted with a sprayer two or three times at intervals of 10-15 minutes.

1. Then the surface is dusted with a brush or vacuum cleaner;
2. The cleaned ceiling is primed with penetrating acrylic primer(primer). The primer will prevent the surface from crumbling and will stick the remaining dust to the base. It is advisable to add an antiseptic to it, since gypsum board will limit the ventilation of the ceiling;
3. The sheet of plasterboard is pressed against the ceiling by assistants, after which holes for dowel screws are drilled directly through it in the ceiling. The step between the attachment points is no more than half a meter;
4. Pieces of gypsum glue are applied to the sheet in increments of no more than 15 cm. Along the edge of the sheet with a slight indent from it, it is worth forming an intermittent bead of glue. Gaps will allow air to escape from the space between the gypsum board and the rough ceiling;

1. The gypsum board is pressed against the ceiling and fixed with dowel screws;
2. Then the sheet is leveled horizontally. You can raise or lower a section of the sheet by screwing in or unscrewing the dowel screws;
3. When the glue sets (this takes up to 6 hours), the fasteners are removed, and the holes from it are filled with plaster or acrylic putty.

Box

The easiest way to assemble a box from a plasterboard profile is from a rack and a guide profile. The guide is used for attaching the frame to the floor, ceiling and main walls, the rack is used for making vertical frame elements and jumpers between them. By the way, jumpers are not necessary: ​​the frame will acquire maximum rigidity after covering it with gypsum plasterboard wall.

Different types of profiles can be combined. In the picture, the uprights are made from CW and UW, and the lintels are made from ceiling CD.

Important point: in most cases hiding communications in a permanent box is a very bad idea. Thus, risers and water supply connections, as well as sewerage systems, can be made hidden only if the following conditions are met:

1. There are no revisions or tees on the riser for cleaning;

1. The sewer riser is assembled from plastic pipes, each of which is fixed at the bell with a clamp, preventing its subsidence;
2. Water supply risers are made of polypropylene, copper or corrugated stainless pipe with maintenance-free connections (soldered or, in the case of stainless steel, compression with silicone seals).

Hide steel pipes It is strictly forbidden to put it in a non-removable box for two reasons:

• They have a limited service life. Leaking pipes in the box will force you to dismantle it to repair or replace a section of the riser;
• Lack of ventilation in the box will lead to condensation on the pipes cold water V summer time. Dampness will shorten the already short service life of the steel riser.

In addition: risers refer to common property residents of the house, and access to them may be required at any time. For example, if there is a leak from neighbors below or above, or if the sewer riser is clogged.