When arranging your home, it often becomes necessary to erect new partitions and interior walls. This could be a full-scale redevelopment, or a desire to split an existing room into two parts or to form rooms in a new building, which is made into a single space. For the construction of new internal partitions, plasterboard and metal profiles are used. This material is so convenient and easy to use that it is possible to build plasterboard walls with your own hands without even resorting to anyone’s help. However, despite the above statement, in the process of forming walls from gypsum plasterboard there are many nuances that should be taken into account. This is the only way to achieve a reliable and durable design.

Materials for work

First, let's decide what we need to build a wall from materials and what tools we need to work with.

To ensure the strength and correct configuration of the wall, a frame should be initially erected. It is executed from metal profile, which is specially designed for drywall and a number of accessories for its installation.

The profile of two main standard sizes is mainly used:

• D – to form the plane on which the drywall (smaller) will be fixed;
• W – for building a general wall frame (larger).

In addition, for each standard size there are profile options such as support (C) and guide (U). The guide option is a simpler version of a U-shaped profile with smooth walls; a support profile is inserted into it at the end. Support profile in addition to U-shape has a special ribbing made by pressing to obtain greater bending rigidity.

As a result:

1. CD – size 60*27 mm main load-bearing element frame;
2. UD – size 28*27 mm guide for fastening the CD profile;
3. CW – size 50*50, 50*75, 50*100 mm rack profile for forming a wall frame;
4. UW – size 50*40, 75*40, 100*40 mm guide for CW profile.
5. In addition, there is a UA profile, which is a version of the CW profile with a thicker wall and reinforced.

To build a simple partition with a width of 50, 75, 100 mm, only CW and UW profiles are used. For wider walls with communications, the CD and UD profiles are used, and two parallel guides are mounted on each side of the wall at the required distance.

To secure the profile to the frame you will need a straight hanger and a universal connector (crab). You can do without the latter. The elements must be twisted using flea screws with a “drill” tip and self-tapping screws for fastening drywall to metal with a countersunk head and a piercing tip (3.5x35 mm). In the course of describing the technology for constructing a plasterboard wall, it will become clear how many screws of each type are needed. To secure the entire frame to the main walls, you will need plastic dowels with impact screws.

Plasterboard sheets for wall construction are selected with a thickness of 12.5 mm, always with a wide chamfer on the sides. If the wall is formed in the kitchen or bathroom, then moisture-resistant gypsum board is selected. You can distinguish them by color, because the moisture-resistant sheet is green, the regular one is gray.

As a result, you will need to build a wall:

plasterboard, profile CD, UD, CW, UW, wooden beam or AU profile, screws, dowels, sealing tape, mineral wool, metal corner.

If you do not fully understand the specifics of the types of profiles, read about their designations and differences.

Tools

You will need the following set of tools and measuring instruments:

1. roulette;
2. level (80cm, 120cm), rule;
3. plumb line;
4. fishing line, rope;
5. screwdriver or drill with reverse;
6. perforator;
7. metal scissors;
8. construction knife;
9. drywall float.

Beginning the formation of a plasterboard wall frame

So, with the assignment of profiles and selection of tools completed, you can begin planning and placement future wall. The floor and adjacent walls to which it will be fixed new wall, must be at the stage immediately before finishing, that is, the floor is level with a screed, the walls are plastered. For example, consider the formation of a wall from the UW, CW profile. On the floor we mark the placement of the future wall. The following points are taken into account:

• Almost nowhere can you find perfectly right angles between walls in rooms. This is especially true for old buildings. The distance between them at different ends may differ by several centimeters. When marking a new plasterboard wall, you should take this into account and refer not to one wall, but to both, which run parallel. In this case, the distances are averaged. This way you can avoid the visual curvature of the resulting room.
• If, in addition to the construction of the wall, all walls are sheathed with plasterboard, then first the frame or at least the marking of the sheathing is laid out so as to create the most right angles, and after that you can only begin to build the wall.
• When outlining the first line of the wall, it is taken into account that the guide profile will be aligned along it, and not the resulting wall. The thickness of the plasterboard, a layer of putty and finishing will be added to this mark.

Having decided on the first line on the floor, you can transfer it to the ceiling and walls. For this, a plumb line is used. If it is possible to use laser level, then this will greatly simplify the task.

Important:All profiles that are attached directly to the floor, ceiling and existing walls are mounted using a sealing tape between it and the supporting surface. The first to be fixed are the UW profile guides to the floor and ceiling. They are secured with dowels and impact screws every half meter and along the edges.

Support posts made of CW profile are attached to the edges of the guides. Also, racks are installed in places where a door or window opening will be formed, which are necessary during construction interior wall from plasterboard. It is best to attach the profiles first to the bottom rail. Then it is threaded into the upper guide and installed strictly vertically in level. Only after this is it fixed to the upper guide. When positioning these profiles, allowance is made for covering strips of plasterboard over the profile. The profiles are installed with the front side facing into the opening. The racks are secured to the guides using flea screws.

The structure of a plasterboard partition.

Support profiles around the perimeter of door and window openings it is necessary to strengthen it with wooden blocks, which are inserted inside the profile and secured with self-tapping screws. The bar is selected according to the width of the profile. If an AU profile is used, then you can do without bars.

The next stage begins the installation of vertical CW support profiles along the entire length of the frame. The first profile from the adjacent wall is installed at a distance of 550 mm, all subsequent ones are strictly at a distance of 600 mm from each other, measuring the distance from the middle of each profile. The vertical installation of the profiles must be checked.

In order to mark the top of the doorway and the horizontal edges of the window openings, the same UW guide profile is used. A piece of profile is cut 30 cm larger than the width of the opening. On the front side, on the bend of the side bends of the profile, marks are placed at a distance of 15 cm from each edge. The distance between the marks is equal to the width of the opening. The profile sides are cut at an angle of 45 degrees, starting from the edge of the profile to the mark and to the base of the profile. After this, the edges of the profile are bent, and a U-shaped structure is obtained.

The resulting blank is placed with its bent edges onto the posts on the sides of the opening and raised to the required height. It is secured using self-tapping screws, which screw the edges of the profile to the posts. The resulting oblique ears, which formed on the main horizontal part of the workpiece, are also screwed on. The perimeter of window openings is formed in the same way.

This completes the formation of the frame. You can proceed to the process of fixing the drywall sheets. The sheet sizes are standardized: 1200x2000 mm, 1200x2500 or 1200x3000 mm. In most cases, ceilings in residential areas are higher and are at least 2.75 m, so one sheet of height may not be enough. Small strips of drywall will need to be added.

The first sheet that will be installed close to the edge, most often to the adjacent wall, must be removed from the side chamfer. To do this, a strip 50 mm wide is cut along its entire length on one side.

Result of work

How to cut drywall?

An ordinary construction knife with replaceable blades. The sheet must be placed on a flat, hard surface. Mark the cut line with a pencil and make an incision with a knife. top layer cardboard After this, the sheet is shifted along the cut line to the edge of the support and carefully broken. Having returned the sheet to its original position, it turns on its edge and bends. The cardboard is also cut on the second side, but not all the way through. By turning the sheet over and moving it to the edge of the support, you can finally chip it off.

To ensure a gap that can be properly sealed later with putty, a bevel is formed on the cut edge of the sheet with an inclination of 22.5 degrees or close to it. A special plasterboard plane is used for this. Also, a chamfer is made on the edge of the sheet that will be adjacent to the gypsum board strip located above or below the sheet.

Fastening drywall sheets

The sheet should be secured to the metal frame using 3.5x35 mm self-tapping screws. The edges of the sheet are secured first, followed by the edges and the midline. For this purpose, there is a special marking marking the position of the screws every 250 mm. The distance between the screws can vary from 10 to 25 cm, but no more. The screws are screwed in so that the caps go slightly deeper into the plasterboard and do not stick out above the wall level.

Important: The sheets are secured at a distance of 10-15 mm from the floor. This is necessary to ensure the integrity of the structure during operation.

Having secured the first sheet, the remaining distance to the ceiling is measured and the corresponding piece of plasterboard is cut off. A chamfer is also formed on it on the sides where it will be docked to the bottom or top sheet and to the ceiling.

Subsequent sheets are installed entirely without chamfering and in a checkerboard pattern. That is, after the first row, a whole sheet of drywall is installed under the ceiling, and the missing part is installed below. Thus, one side of the wall is sheathed.

Laying out wiring and installing sockets and switches

Before covering the second side, you can lay the wires if necessary. To pass through the rack profiles, holes of 35 mm in size are made in them, strictly in the middle of the profile at the required height. It is advisable that the edges of the hole be concave to one side and bent so as not to subsequently damage the wires. The wires are mounted in accordance with the requirements in a corrugated pipe.

Soundproofing plasterboard walls

Mineral wool is used for this. This will make the plasterboard wall less transparent to sound, because without soundproofing all the noise from one room will be heard in another. Easier to use roll version of this material with a width of 600 or 1200 mm. The second option is cut in half lengthwise. The cotton wool is placed tightly between the rack profiles without gaps. There is no need to secure it further. For reliability, you can form horizontal lintels from wooden beams along the width of the wall, on which mineral wool of a shorter length than the height of the ceilings will rest. Such the method will work for places where there is a risk of moisture getting inside the wall. However, sufficient ventilation of the interior must also be ensured.

Completing the construction of a plasterboard wall

After this, you can sheathe the second side of the wall. After the second side of the wall is sheathed, you can begin filling all the end surfaces.

Between the sheets of plasterboard there is a distance of 100 mm formed by chamfers, which is slightly recessed. The joints are glued with a mounting mesh and compared with the general level of the wall. starting putty. Finishing putty is applied to all places where screws are installed or to the entire surface, especially if the wall will subsequently be painted or covered with thin wallpaper. Using abrasive mesh and a trowel, the putty layer is finally leveled. After this, the wall is ready for cladding with any suitable material.

Video: making walls from plasterboard with your own hands

We bring to your attention a master class on making plasterboard partitions. In this article you will find all the information a novice installer needs. We will also outline the technological and operational features of the gypsum board walls.

Partitions made from plasterboard panels assembled on a metal frame have long been considered classics of the genre. Such designs have been successfully used abroad for several decades. They appeared here in the nineties and with their functionality literally charmed developers and professional builders. At first it was difficult to find everything necessary materials, and there was almost no information about the technology of installing frame partitions (the craftsmen had to work using their general construction knowledge and often native Russian ingenuity). Now we have at our disposal completely complete systems and detailed technological maps from manufacturers. Never before has organizing interior space been so simple. This is for real universal systems, which are especially good for redevelopment during renovations.

Now, after many years of trouble-free operation of plasterboard walls, we can safely say that the fears of skeptics regarding reliability and durability have not been justified. Such partitions can be enclosing structures inside any heated premises, including those where it is humid, fire resistance and penetration protection are needed.

Ten reasons to choose plasterboard partitions

Let's look at the main advantages of gypsum plasterboard partitions. We will limit ourselves to ten points, but in fact this list is much longer:

1. Dry technology. Okay, almost dry - there is no escape from puttying, but this is nothing compared to any other options that require full plaster or so-called leveling. In addition, brick or block masonry itself also needs to be dried.
2. Weight. Again no competitors. The load on the subfloor or ceiling will be minimal (for single-layer lining the mass square meter- about 25-30 kg). You can safely mount such a partition on top of wet and dry screeds, wooden floors, on weak slabs of Khrushchev buildings, etc.
3. Load-bearing capacity. It has never happened before that it was impossible to reliably hang something on a plasterboard wall. Volumetric dowels for hollow structures work wonders - on a sheet 12.5 mm thick, one fastening point holds up to 30 kg. Officially (data from the Knauf company): kitchen cabinet 30 cm deep and 80 cm wide, suspended on two fasteners (one layer of plasterboard) you can safely load up to 50 kg. This is anywhere on an unprepared wall. The numbers are much more interesting if you fix objects to rack profiles or with multi-layer cladding of the frame. Very heavy things (up to 150 kg) can be mounted on such walls if wooden or steel embedded elements are provided inside the partition. Boiler, cast iron radiator, ceramic washbasin - no problem. We'll tell you how to do this below.
4. Soundproofing. Between the supporting profiles it is always possible to lay acoustic insulating materials. For an ordinary living space, the right mineral wool will provide the best sound absorption of air waves among all options for partitions of the same thickness (insulation index from 44 to 56 dB). Impact noise is localized by using damper pads under the guide profiles. A correctly assembled plasterboard partition does not “bounce” when the profiles are closed interior door They don't "rumble". If you need to create a super-protected space, you can use multi-layer lining, cladding with special panels, and assemble a complex frame (two rows of racks). You can't achieve the same results with an array.
5. Moisture resistance. Moisture-resistant drywall works great in bathrooms, especially if covered with a special mastic. Excellent performance is demonstrated by all kinds of aqua panels on cement based. If there are really unfavorable neighbors upstairs, then “green” HA can be used throughout the apartment, and to protect the cotton wool from getting wet, the mats can be wrapped in polyethylene. Profiles for the subsystem are also not afraid of moisture, since they are galvanized.
6. Presence of cavities. It is very convenient to carry out various engineering communications inside frame partitions. This is an excellent solution for the kitchen and bathroom, where it is necessary to install sewerage, plumbing, heating, and electricity. For ease of installation of routes, the metal racks have special perforations; additional windows can be cut with a grinder. The partition can easily accommodate mortise electrical boxes and panels, plumbing boxes, etc.
7. Any configuration. Partitions of any shape are available: round, wave, with oblique angles, niches, arches, openings. Possible height is up to 9.5 meters, length is not limited (only compensating expansion joints are needed every 15 meters). You can attach the partition to suspended ceiling and to sheathed walls (both on the frame and on the mounting adhesive).
8. Intrusion protection. Current issue in public spaces - offices, warehouses, offices, etc. The problem is effectively solved by more frequent arrangement of racks (30 cm along the axes), multilayer cladding and screwing sheets of galvanized metal 0.5-1 mm thick to the frame (immediately along the profiles or between the layers of cladding).
9. Low cost. With traditional single-layer cladding, a plasterboard wall is about half the price of a brick wall (with plastering) and about 15-20% cheaper than tongue-and-groove gypsum systems. This applies to both the cost of materials and installation prices.
10. Easy to install. Anyone can master the technology; it’s much easier than sheathing walls or ceilings. The fact is that here you don’t need to set up the frame thread by thread, which is usually a real stumbling block for beginners. Although the installation is planned out by the developers from start to finish, in fact, frame gypsum plasterboard partitions forgive their builders many shortcomings and mistakes. Cracks and differences in planes on partitions are very rare. And yet, the only power tools you will need are a screwdriver and, possibly, a light hammer drill. The speed of construction is a record. Two qualified people (a foreman and an assistant) can easily assemble a frame and sew up a partition with an area of ​​about 15-20 m2 in an eight-hour shift.

Technology for constructing plasterboard partitions

It is best to start installation after installing the subfloor (good planes make it easier to mark the contours) - although technologically, wet and dry screeds can be done after the partitions. As we have already said, wall frames can be attached to ceilings and walls covered with gypsum plasterboard. In other words, there are no restrictions in this regard. One person can build the frame of the partition and carry out the sheathing, but the markings have to be done by two people, since a tapping cord and a plumb line are used everywhere. The most productive work will be in the master + assistant level.

Marking

To transfer the dimensions and location of the partition from the drawings to reality, as a rule, they start from some load-bearing wall. If our frame runs parallel, we simply put two points at the required distance and connect them; it is a little more difficult to achieve perpendicularity. Very short partitions can be marked using a large square, or by placing a sheet of drywall in place.

However, for large structures the errors from hand tools can be critical, and it is better to use a laser tool (square, builder). Good way to obtain an exact right angle - draw an Egyptian triangle, in which the mutually perpendicular sides are multiples of 3 and 4, and the diagonal is 5.

We recommend marking lines for plasterboard partitions using a tapping cord or a tracer. First, the contours of the partition are measured and marked on the floor, and only then transferred to the ceiling, although some manuals suggest doing the opposite. When working with the tracer, be very careful that the cord does not catch on anything, and be sure to thoroughly sweep the floor.

Now, using a plumb line, we transfer our markings to the ceiling. For each line you need to have two marks, which we will also connect with a tracer. One person presses the string of the plumb line to the ceiling and, at the command of an assistant, smoothly moves it until the point aligns with the bottom line. The one who corrects the weight at the floor must carefully stop the cone with his fingers, preventing it from swinging. When everything comes together, a mark is placed along the axis of the thread.

It is interesting that some installers mark the ceiling from an already drilled profile, but the PN shelves are often bent somewhere, which significantly distorts the picture.

At this stage, we suggest immediately marking the points on the floor that indicate the edges doorway, if there is one. The main thing is not to forget to leave a 20-30 mm margin, so that later an installation gap of 10-15 mm on each side will form near the door block.

We strongly recommend (although few people do this) to use a tracer to connect the ceiling line with the floor line on the wall - at this stage this is done quickly and easily. This way we will have vertical markings to control the installation of the wall profile.

Frame assembly

The width and length of the profiles used are selected depending on the required parameters of the partition. In most cases, the optimal width will be a frame made of PN-75 and PS-75 profiles, which, with a single-layer lining, form a partition 100 mm wide. It makes sense to use fiftieth profiles only if the cladding will be done in two layers.

Before installation, the PN profile (guide profile or UW) must be covered with damper tape from below. Also, for anti-vibration decoupling of partitions from enclosing structures, a sealant can be used, which is applied from the back with two threads into special grooves.

We lay the prepared sections of the PN along the marking lines and fix them through the mounting holes. Fastening into the mineral massif is carried out using “quick-installation” dowels 6x40 mm - it is necessary to drill holes with a hammer drill. In hollow structures, holes are drilled with a drill and special drop-down dowels are used. For metal and wooden bases use self-tapping screws with a press washer.

During fixation, in addition to checking along the line, be sure to apply a rule to the PN from the side, since even a high-quality and wide profile is easily bent by an arc. In the area of ​​the doorway, the profiles are secured with two dowels; for reliability, you can install even more fasteners.

Attention! The installation of the guide profile on the floor should be done first, so as not to fall asleep or trample the marking line.

The end vertical profiles are inserted inside the ceiling and floor guides. Sometimes here, by analogy with false walls, they install PN, but it is more technologically advanced to use PS, since two guides superimposed on each other in the corners of the frame then slightly distort the plane. Then the outermost PSs are pressed against the wall, in accordance with the markings and with the obligatory use of the rules, they are fixed.

Now that the full perimeter of the partition is in place, you need to mark the installation points of the racks. The pitch of PS (UW) profiles must be a multiple of the sheet width (1200 mm) - 30, 40, 60 cm along the axes. The first option is anti-burglary, the third is for ordinary partitions in residential premises. The second step of 40 cm is the most common, it is also mandatory for arranging partitions that are tiled, and also if three-layer lining is used.

The marks at which the substations are installed in the design position are placed using a tape measure on the shelves of the guide profile, and on both sides. Unlike the arrangement of false walls, these marks do not indicate the centers of the rack profiles, but their edges. We recommend correlating the first marks on the ceiling and floor with each other using a plumb line, and then measuring the rest from them, so that all the racks will be strictly vertical.

We prepare PS profiles piece by piece according to length and insert them into the guides. The length of the racks should be 10 mm less than the height of the room at a particular point; for sagging floors and in seismic zones, this gap should be 20 mm. If utility lines will run inside the partition, then insert the rack profiles so that the perforation windows are opposite each other - then the route will run strictly horizontally.

Attention! The shelves of all PSs must be oriented in the same direction, with the only exception being one rack that forms the doorway.

Rack profiles are fixed to the PN shelves using cutting pliers or LN 9 mm self-tapping screws with a drilling end. This is done on both sides of the partition, near the floor and near the ceiling.

The next step is to form the frame of the opening. If installed here door block, then the racks need strengthening. To do this, two PS profiles are assembled into a rectangular box. As an addition, a dry, even beam is inserted into it to its full height on one side with a cross-section of 40 mm (it will fit freely into the box). After inserting the beam, the prefabricated element of the opening is screwed with LN screws from the cladding side and TN 25 screws from the opening side (the wooden beam is attracted to the metal). If you use a perfectly prepared timber that will fill the PS from shelf to shelf, then there is no point in assembling a box-like structure to organize the opening.

A jumper should be installed between the racks at the required height (be sure to take into account what level the finished floor will rise to, and allow a gap of 2-2.5 cm above the door). The jumper is made from a piece of PN, which is cut in the form of a double-sided “stick”. Also, the short parts of the “stick” can be bent down. We screw this element strictly horizontally through the eyes to the racks, using four or five self-tapping screws on each side.

Short PS profiles are inserted between the lintel and the ceiling PN; they must be spaced from other frame elements with a given pitch to ensure joining of the sheathing sheets. It is also necessary to orient their shelves in the desired direction.

Covering the subsystem with sheets

Cladding panels with long edges with a thinned edge must necessarily be joined in the middle of the rack profiles. The sheets are installed in the direction where the shelves of the PS profiles are facing, then the shelves will not bend under the influence of the screws. If the height of the sheets is not enough to cover the entire partition, then they must be placed with the joints staggered in height.

The drywall is placed in the design position and screwed with TN metal screws at intervals of no more than 250 mm. You should retreat 15 mm from the edge of the short side, and at least 10 mm from the edge of the thinned edge. At the joints of adjacent sheets, the screws should be spaced 10-20 mm apart. All fasteners are screwed in strictly at right angles to the frame so that the countersunk head does not break through the top cardboard layer.

Attention! A gap of 7-10 mm should be maintained between the sheet and the enclosing structures; therefore, temporary pads of suitable thickness are used in the floor area.

To ensure that the short joints of the sheets are also on the metal, measured sections of CD or PN/PS profiles are screwed to them between the posts. When screwing in the screws of the additional short sheet, you should not put too much pressure on the jumper, so as not to tear it away from the panel on which it is already fixed.

If the sewing is carried out in several layers, then the vertical joints of sheets of different tiers must be made on different racks.

Very important point- this is the joining of drywall at the opening. To avoid cracks, the sheet should always be placed on a short post located above the door (at least 20 cm).

When the partition has been lined on one side, the necessary communications can be made and embedded elements can be inserted. Convenient to use as anchors for heavy objects moisture resistant plywood 20-30 mm thick, OSB and dry timber may also be suitable. Sheets of plywood of suitable size are screwed through the body of the drywall (between the studs) in specified places with a large number of self-tapping screws. Mortgages for low-lying weights (for example, heating radiators) can be rested on the floor.

At this stage, a soundproofing layer is laid into the cavity of the gypsum board wall, after which they begin to sew the frame on the other side. Sheets that overlap the opening are cut off using a saw and knife, and the cut edges of all panels are embroidered.

Attention! The joints of the sheets with which different sides of the partition are sheathed should not fall on the same supporting rack.

Arrangement of corners and junctions

The joining of gypsum board partitions (T-shaped and corner) should only be done through a sheet of drywall. It is recommended to screw the mating frame with metal self-tapping screws (35 mm long) to the embedded rack of the adjacent wall; therefore, additional PS should be provided in the right places.

A complex knot is an indirect angle. To organize it, the extreme PS profiles of the mating planes are installed in the guides as close to each other as possible, and then on both sides of the corner they are twisted with curved strips of galvanized metal with a thickness of 0.5 mm. The strip width must be sufficient to reach neighboring substations. The corner is tied over the entire height of the seam.

Round plasterboard partition

To make a curved partition, the guide profile is cut into sectors 5-10 cm wide with a grinder. Along the outlined radius, the PN is secured with a large number of fasteners - at least one dowel/screw must be used for each sector.

Curved posts are inserted at intervals of no more than 300 mm and fixed in the design position in accordance with the general rules.

Radius sheathing can be done in three ways:

1. Two layers arched plasterboard 6 mm thick are located horizontally. The combination of two-layer sheathing with flexible sheets and single-layer sheathing of the main partition must be brought to the plane of the main wall.
2. A 12.5 mm gypsum board wall panel is pricked with a needle roller, moistened by spraying and deformed on a template, after which it is screwed horizontally (the minimum permissible radius is 1000 mm). Rolling is done with a roller from the front side for the outer arc and from the back side of the sheet for the inner arc.
3. A 12.5 mm wall sheet is cut into sectors about 5 cm wide (the remaining layer of paper must not be damaged) and screwed vertically to the frame. Then the structure is stretched out with putty.

As you can see, the technology for making plasterboard partitions is quite simple. If you carry out all operations carefully and follow the rules we have outlined, you can assemble walls of any complexity, because this is just a construction set.

Video on the topic

Plasterboard partition - inexpensive and convenient way change the layout of the apartment. This material allows you to independently change the internal structure of the apartment, create your own custom design and delimit the premises into clear zones. In new apartments, as a rule, the number of partitions is kept to a minimum so that the owner can use plasterboard to zone the room to his liking.

Advantages of plasterboard partitions

Drywall - relatively new material, it first went on sale about 15 years ago. At the same time, in the construction of interior partitions, it very quickly replaced traditional brick and foam block. This is due to the following advantages:

• Flexibility and the ability to cut any shape, which opens up new design possibilities.
• Easy to install - drywall is installed with a minimum amount of tools and effort.
• The ability to regulate humidity in the apartment.
• Moisture-resistant types of drywall are suitable for bathroom partitions.
• The low weight of the material does not put any load on the supporting structures.
• Environmental friendliness and safety of the material.
• Low cost of drywall compared to brick and foam block.

Modern drywall practically does not burn, which makes it good choice to ensure fire safety.

Preparation

How to make a plasterboard partition with your own hands, step-by-step instructions for installing it - we will tell you further. If you follow this, you can easily and without problems build a partition from plasterboard with your own hands. The work is divided into the following stages:

1. Marking.
2. Installation of the frame.
3. Installation of drywall.
4. Laying insulating materials.

The first stage is marking. It is not particularly difficult, you just need to take measurements of the room, transfer them to paper and calculate required quantity building materials. Having carried out such calculations, you need to purchase the following materials:

• Drywall thickness from 6 to 12.5 mm. Its thickness varies depending on the expected load on the walls.
• Metal profile. Its width ranges from 50 to 100 mm, the choice depends on the load on the wall.
• Vertical posts for the frame.
• Self-tapping screws. Their choice depends on the material used for the walls of the building. To screw them in you need a screwdriver.
• Plumb for measurements.
• Insulation materials - mineral wool or expanded polystyrene.
• To install a partition in a concrete building, you will need a hammer drill.

Video: DIY plasterboard partitions

After purchasing all necessary tools and materials, you can begin installing the partition.

Frame

The basis of the future partition is the frame, and the strength and aesthetics of the structure depend on the correct installation. Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for a plasterboard partition frame are very important, since this stage is the most difficult.

So, its installation looks like this:

1. A line is drawn along the ceiling, exactly perpendicular to the opposite walls. Control points are lowered to the floor using a plumb line and a similar line is drawn along them.
2. Using a screwdriver, profiles are installed on the floor, ceiling and walls. They need to be secured especially carefully, since they bear the main load.
3. Vertical supports are attached to the profiles, at the rate of three pieces per sheet of drywall. In this case, the joints of adjacent sheets will be on the same support, and there should also be a stand in the center of each sheet.

To ensure sound insulation, you can lay a self-adhesive seal between the profiles and the wall, and only then screw them in with self-tapping screws. If heavy furniture will be hung on the wall, the step between the vertical supports should be no more than 40 cm.

Drywall installation

Installing drywall is not difficult. Its sheets are installed in a vertical position, and the horizontal joints of adjacent sheets should not be located in a row. Fastening is carried out as follows:

• The self-tapping screw should be located no closer than 5 cm from the corners of the drywall, and 1.5 cm from its edges.
• The heads of the screws need to be recessed into the drywall as much as possible so that they do not subsequently stick out.

To cut drywall, a simple stationery knife is suitable, which must be used in combination with the rule. The knife does not need to go too deep into the sheet; a 2 mm cut is enough, after which it will break on its own.

Insulation

Do-it-yourself insulation of a plasterboard partition is also done according to step-by-step instructions. She insulates the partition and prevents noise penetration. The most environmentally friendly and fireproof option is mineral wool, but polystyrene foam can also be used. The insulation should be installed after the drywall has been installed on one side of the wall. As a rule, the material comes in the form of slabs and does not need to be particularly secured. After installing the insulation, you should complete the sheathing with plasterboard. After this you can start decorative design partitions.

It is quite difficult to divide a large room into comfortable zones without using expensive materials and without resorting to the help of specialists. But you can make partitions from plasterboard, which are easy to build, the material is inexpensive, and you can start handling it as a complete beginner. Partitions will help create distinct zones in a house or apartment; they can be created if you want to separate space, but at the same time spend little time and money on it.

What is this article about?

Why drywall

Drywall has many applications, but it is most often used to create partitions, so we will tell you about the process of constructing plasterboard partitions, which can be made of any shape and size, it all depends on your imagination. Also, if you need to create a partition in which you can install a door and create sound insulation and insulation, then plasterboard is also perfect for this. It is very easy to use, you just need to purchase profiles for constructing the frame, some tools, and you can start creating the partition.

Interior partitions made of plasterboard are erected in the place where you need to divide the room into zones. Perhaps it will be a study, a studio, a playroom for children, or just a beautiful partition that can highlight the interior design and highlight the room. original decor. If you are interested in plasterboard products and want to build some structures in your home, we recommend reading articles about these products on our website.

If you have started a renovation and are planning to completely decorate the room, then using drywall will be the best option in order to save your budget as much as possible without compromising the quality of the repair. By the way, you can arrange lighting and insulation in the partitions, if, of course, you need it. We just want to point out that drywall is very universal material, which can be used in a wide variety of fields and areas of construction and repair robots.

It has no restrictions on its use, so start working with it to create necessary design Almost anyone can do it with their own hands, the main thing is to follow the instructions below and, if everything is done correctly, you will get a high-quality and beautiful partition.

Surface marking

You need to decide on the shape of the partition, for this you can look interesting ideas on the Internet, if something interests you, you can sketch out a similar form on paper, add your decisions and preferences, and then start making markings. Also, think and decide whether you need to insulate the partition, because it allows it, but this additional costs. If insulation is needed, for example, in a private house, it will be very useful, since maintaining heat in it is much more difficult than in an apartment, then create a frame and, in general, the entire structure wider so that insulation can be placed in it.

If your work is related to sounds, perhaps you are a musician or a sound engineer, then it is better to use soundproof plasterboard to create a partition, which can effectively muffle most sounds that will no longer disturb both you and your neighbors. Also, in the partition it is possible to arrange spot lighting, which will create a unique atmosphere at night. In addition, such lighting will help you easily navigate around the apartment without turning on the main light, thanks to which you can save a little on electricity.

The selected form must be transferred to the wall and floor, that is, its projection must be made onto the surface on which it will be installed. The very first thing that needs to be applied is the contours of the product, which will indicate the installation location of the guide profile, which will significantly facilitate the entire further work. The profile that will be located inside must be marked on the wall in the same way. Be careful here, the location of the guide profile is marked both on the wall and on the floor and ceiling, since it will be directly attached to them. The rack profile is attached to the guide, and not to the surfaces, so its location can only be marked on the wall to make it easier during assembly.

If you are planning to create interior partitions from plasterboard using insulation, then remember that you will need to make much more frame to make room for the insulation itself. This means that when marking, it will be necessary to take into account the location of the insulation. Also, we note that it will be difficult to illuminate a thin partition, so light partitions serve more of a decorative role. Already in wider plasterboard partitions you can create niches, lighting, and insulation, so decide what you need more.

Components calculator

• Partition with 1 layer of gypsum board
• Partition with 2 layers of gypsum board

*Attention! All results are approximate - accuracy depends on the wall material, condition and shape of the room

Assembling the frame for the partition

To work you will need

• A guide profile (attached to the base), from which the base will be built, onto which the rest of the profile will be attached;
• Rack profile. The main part of the structure will consist of it; it creates bridges between the rails of the guide profile;
• Metal scissors, screwdriver, drill, cutter (optional);
• Profile for bends (it is advisable to have one, but you can use an ordinary profile, just specially cut). It can be easily bent, making it possible to create difficult areas large structures.

The guide profile slats must be installed where you made the markings. Use dowels and a drill to attach it to the base. If it is wooden, then you can use screws and a screwdriver. First install the slats on the ceiling, then, using a plumb line, secure them to the floor. The plumb line must be used to check the accuracy, because you may have made some errors in the distance at the marking stage, so always check the accuracy. Along with a plumb line, it is better to use a laser level, which can draw perfectly straight lines in any direction.

The most important thing you need to remember when creating a frame. If you are creating a thin and light standard partition that will simply perform decorative functions, then make one row of the guide profile. If there is a partition, inside of which there will be insulation, a niche, lighting, and a layer of sound insulation, then it is necessary to create a second row of a guide profile.

If the installation of the partition takes place in such a way that the room is completely divided into two parts, that is, all 4 walls will be used (it happens that the partitions do not touch one wall or are small in height and do not reach the ceiling), then the guide profile will have to be on each of 4 surfaces. After installing the guide profile, you can create jumpers from the rack profile. The frame will begin to resemble a square honeycomb, plasterboard sheets will be installed on them and, if necessary, the insulation will be located in these honeycombs from the profile.

The profile slats can be fastened together with self-tapping screws, but you can purchase a special device that will make the work easier - a cutter. He compresses the profile, thereby holding it together. Our remark is that the rack profile should always be located perpendicular to the guide (except for additional reinforcement when large sizes), if this requirement is not met, then you are doing something wrong, so watch the direction of the profiles.

In the same way, a doorway is created from profiles. If niches are planned in the partition, then the frame will need to be strengthened, but if it is simple and light partition, then you can do without strengthening, the main thing is that the frame does not wobble. Connect the guide profile to each other with a rack, you can further strengthen the entire structure, but this must be done only if additional load is planned on the product (except for plasterboard sheets).

In those places where the project will bend, it is also necessary to install a profile. To do this, you can use either a special factory one or a regular one, the cuts on which are made independently. The only advantage of the factory profile is that it does not need to be cut, but can be immediately bent to give the desired shape. If you decide to make cuts on the profile yourself, then take metal scissors and cut only 2 sides without touching the 3rd.

Sheathing the partition frame with plasterboard sheets

Use drywall based on the type of room (fire-resistant or moisture-resistant, you can also use soundproofing). The most commonly used is standard (gray) drywall. First, the sheathing should be done with solid pieces of drywall, and only then, when it is impossible to use whole ones, you need to use smaller pieces. Try to create as few seams as possible on the product.

Fastening the drywall to the frame is done with the same screwdriver and self-tapping screws, but you don’t need to recess them too much into the sheet (the limit is 2 mm). But you also don’t need to screw them in so that the caps stick out a little. The best option can be found by simply running a spatula over the sheet; if it doesn’t catch anything, then everything is done correctly.

If redevelopment is not planned in the near future, then the surface will still need to be puttied. But that's only when you're done with the sheathing. The most difficult part of the cladding is creating bends. Or rather, it is not difficult, it just requires some effort. The easiest way is to walk over the sheet with a spiked roller, slightly wet it, wait for the plaster to soften, and secure the sheet to the frame.

This completes the creation of the plasterboard partition; all that remains is to apply plaster to the surface of the product to give the structure a flawless appearance. Then you can add different decorative elements on the partition, wallpapering or applying paint.

A couple of decades ago, all partitions and piers were built with their own hands from blocks or bricks. These materials were subsequently successfully replaced by drywall, which remains popular to this day. There are many reasons for this. The ability of drywall to take on any shape and the variety of profiles of its frame allow you to turn the most daring ideas of designers into reality. Easy installation of a plasterboard partition with your own hands is possible even for a beginner in the construction business.

Thanks to its porous structure, the material easily allows steam to pass through, regulating the level of humidity in the room. GKL impregnation special composition makes it possible to use drywall in damp environments such as bathrooms or kitchens. Drywall, which contains natural ingredients, is completely harmless to health.

The light weight of gypsum plasterboard partitions has little effect on the load-bearing capacity of the main elements of the building, which is very important when repairing old wooden buildings. And during construction modern buildings the use of gypsum plasterboard structures reduces the cost of concrete and reinforcement by up to 30%.

The thickness of the partitions during their installation and a reliable opening are determined by the profile width of 100.75 or 50 mm. Its choice depends on the purpose of the partition. Narrow profile can save money usable area, and wide - to withstand significant loads.

Material calculation

The design of the future partition is a metal frame covered with gypsum plasterboard, in which there is a doorway. The frame consists of guides and rack profiles. Guide profiles PN 50/40 are attached along the perimeter of the vertical contour of the room, and rack profiles PS are mounted inside the contour with a pitch of 600 mm; they also form the doorway. For cladding, 12.5mm wall plasterboard with sheet dimensions of 2500x1200mm is used.

In order to correctly calculate the amount of these materials, it is necessary to draw on paper a diagram of the future partition indicating the height, length or width of the room, the location and dimensions of the doorway, as well as the placement of rack profiles. In addition, the frame drawing should include cutting sheets of plasterboard, which should be arranged in a checkerboard pattern with the joints fastened to horizontal jumpers frame.

When making calculations, it is important to determine the future load on the partition from the weight of furniture or decorative items. The location and number of rack profiles, as well as additional jumpers required in places where accessories are attached or forming a doorway, depend on it.

Before making a partition from plasterboard, an approximate calculation of the amount of materials can be done using any of the numerous calculators posted on the websites of specialized construction companies. The doorway is not taken into account.

Frame installation

In order to build metal frame To make partitions with your own hands, you will need the following tools: a plumb line, a screwdriver, a tape measure, metal scissors, a hammer drill, a drill, a hammer, a painting cord, a building level and a marker. An interior plasterboard partition with a door is made in stages in the following order:

Covering the partition frame with plasterboard

After installing the frame, it needs to be sheathed plasterboard sheets. You should start working with your own hands from the wall by attaching solid sheets, observing the following rules:

• Self-tapping screws are screwed into the sheet at a distance of 10-15mm from its edge with a fastening pitch of 100-150mm.
• Adjacent sheets must have a joint on a common profile.
• The fastener caps should be recessed 0.5 mm into the gypsum board.
• With a single-layer frame sheathing, the length of the screws is taken to be at least 25mm, and with a two-layer sheathing - 40mm. An important indicator in this case, the fastener penetrates into the profile to a depth of at least 10 mm.

After covering the frame on one side, it is recommended to lay soundproofing material, which can be used as mineral wool in the form of plates or rolls. The insulator must be laid between the rack profiles, avoiding gaps.

After laying the insulation, you can sheathe the frame on the other side according to the rules described above. It is recommended to attach the sheets to the frame profiles with a vertical offset to properly distribute the loads that arise during the operation of the partition.

Partition finishing

Finishing of the finished plasterboard partition is carried out in the following order:

Instead of traditional door can be installed in the partition sliding door. In this case, the opening size will be smaller door leaf. Such an opening is equipped with a floor controller, a hanging rail and has an additional metal frame necessary to disguise the movement mechanism.

If necessary, engineering communications can be placed in the plasterboard partition: electrical wiring, pipes and others. Such work is planned in advance and carried out at the stage of creating the frame.

That's all science is. We hope you now know how to make a plasterboard partition and doorway with your own hands. A little patience and accuracy in your work - and everything will work out for you. Good luck everyone!