Cesspool in a private house - types of device, location options and installation details. Cesspool in a private house - diagram, materials, device Sealed cesspool correct installation

A cesspool in a private house, the design of which is chosen in accordance with existing requirements and rules, is capable of collecting household waste without the risk of soil contamination. Despite the fact that the construction of a pit is simpler than, for example, construction, there are certain nuances that directly affect the efficiency of such a sewer system and, accordingly, the comfort of living.

The advantages of cesspools are determined simplicity of their design. Such a structure can be built quite quickly. In addition, its cost will be low - the most commonly used available materials, including used ones.

The disadvantage of a cesspool is, first of all, the need to pump out wastewater. Depending on the circumstances (the volume of the pit, the number of people, the presence of water-consuming household appliances), the frequency may vary, but the services of a sewer truck will always be one of your expenses.

Important: The maximum depth of the cesspool should not be more than 3 meters, otherwise problems may arise with its pumping.

Another significant drawback that you need to know about before making a cesspool in a private house with your own hands is sanitary “unreliability”, if we are talking about its leaky version. It is necessary to very carefully consider the location of the cesspool and its design, calculate the required volume so that the structure does not poison the existence of the inhabitants of the house with unpleasant odors and, even worse, does not cause it to get into the soil of the garden. harmful substances or the occurrence of infectious diseases.

Types of cesspools

The design of cesspools in a private house largely depends on how the country building is used. For a small amount of waste and periodic residence, you can choose a pit without a bottom, but if a family of several people lives in the house permanently, it is better to prefer a sealed storage tank. Each of the options deserves more detailed consideration.

Cesspool without bottom

A cesspool without a bottom is a kind of “well”, the walls of which prevent wastewater from entering the upper layers of the soil, and instead of the bottom, a kind of filter made of crushed stone or gravel is installed. Passing through it, the wastewater is partially filtered, after which it enters the soil and, passing through it, is purified more efficiently. The advantage of this option is that there is no need to constantly call vacuum cleaners. You won’t be able to do without cleaning at all, but its frequency can be significantly reduced.

It is advisable wastewater separation and the installation of separate cesspools for the toilet. In this case, the toilet pit will fill more slowly (and, accordingly, require calling special equipment less often), and drainage from the shower, bathtub, kitchen sink with a minimum amount of insoluble inclusions will almost completely disappear through the filter into the soil.

It is important to know that such a do-it-yourself cesspool for a private home has “contraindications”.

The close location of groundwater excludes the possibility of installing a model without a bottom, since when their level rises during a flood or during heavy rain, the hole can spontaneously fill. In addition, under such conditions, the quality of filtration noticeably decreases - wastewater does not pass through the soil, being purified, but goes directly into groundwater.
Clay soil has too low permeability to ensure timely removal of the contents of the cesspool.
The volume of such a cesspool should not be more than 1 cubic meter.

Sealed cesspool

Sealed structures with a bottom are only storage units. The wastewater must be pumped out using a sewer truck. Despite the need to pay for the services of special equipment, this option also has its advantages:

sanitary safety and eliminating the possibility of soil contamination and the spread of pathogenic bacteria,
Possibility of use in all types of soil.

For sealed structures of small volume, ready-made waterproof containers are often used. A large cesspool in a private house, the design of which involves collecting wastewater from a large number of points, is most often built from one or another material suitable for its characteristics.

Materials for cesspools

By considering the features of materials often used for the construction of such structures and comparing them with the conditions of a particular facility, you can decide which cesspool in a private house will be the most effective and economical.

Finished goods

The use of finished products can significantly reduce lead time construction work, and in some cases – their complexity.

Tires cars are used as blocks - they are installed one on top of the other, secured with clamps, waterproof glue and sealing the joints. In most cases, tire cesspools have no bottom. The advantages of this option are low cost, easy and quick installation.
A tire cesspool is one of the cheapest options for organizing sewerage
Concrete rings- another option for block construction of cesspools. They weigh a lot, so lifting equipment will be required to install them in the pit. At the same time, construction will not take much time, and the resulting structure will be strong and durable. Concrete rings can be used to construct both hermetic storage tanks and filter structures without a bottom. In the first case, the rings are installed on concrete foundation. Seal joints and treat internal and external surfaces concrete products waterproofing compounds (one of the most available options– ordinary bitumen, although you can purchase special mastics if desired) is recommended regardless of the type of product.
Iron or plastic require a minimum of effort during installation, but their significant drawback is their small volume. As a storage facility, they are only suitable for a summer residence, and to install a cesspool with a filter, the bottom will need to be removed. Iron products require application waterproofing coating from external and inside for protection against corrosion.
Plastic storage models fixation to the foundation is required to prevent them from floating during floods. In addition, at the stage of backfilling the assembled structure, it is recommended to fill the container with water to prevent its deformation due to compression by soil.

Construction materials

Usage building materials slightly increases the construction time. At the same time, a significant advantage is that a do-it-yourself cesspool in a private house in this case can be arranged in any configuration, taking into account sanitary requirements and the layout of the site. It can be round or rectangular, including narrow and long, if this option is more convenient to locate on the territory.

Concrete poured structures are made using formwork by gradually increasing the height of the wall.
Brickwork can be done in a circle, but more often, for reasons of convenience, brick pits are made rectangular.

Both options can be used for the construction of storage or filter structures and in most cases require the application of a double-sided waterproofing layer.

Rules for choosing location and volume

According to sanitary standards, the volume of the cesspool must be no less than the three-day water consumption rate. The estimated number is considered to be 200 liters per day per person, however, it is important to know that this figure is relevant for permanent residence. When visiting the dacha periodically, it is less, and water is not consumed every day.

In a house with permanent residence for a family of 3 people you need a pit of at least 1 cubic meter. Sometimes it is more convenient to use two small ones than one spacious hole. The layout of a cesspool in a private house must take into account the required distances from significant objects - at least 30 m from the place of drinking water intake, at least 3 m from garden and garden plants and 5 m from the road. In this case, storage models should be positioned so that a sewage disposal truck can easily drive up to it.

If your site has a low groundwater level and you decide that it is suitable for you, then we will help in its construction with our advice.

To pump out the cesspool yourself, you will need. You will learn about their choice in another article.

And the nuances of choosing well pumps are described in this material

Cleaning the cesspool

You should be aware that the operation of vacuum cleaners does not guarantee complete cleaning of the tank. It is only possible to pump out liquid, while sediment will remain and accumulate at the bottom. Speaking about in a private home, it should be noted that cleaning can be optimized by using special preparations.

Bioactive complexes, which are colonies of bacteria, work effectively, eliminate odor and are environmentally friendly. However, at temperatures below +4° C, microorganisms die, so it is impossible to use such products in winter.
Among chemicals Preferred are nitrate oxidizers, which are non-toxic and do not pose a danger to people, pets and plants. They are usually used in the cold season.

Important: To eliminate odors from the pit, which will occur if special preparations are not used, ventilation of the cesspool in a private house is required. Plastic sewer pipes with a diameter of 10 cm and a height of 60 cm, which are installed in the upper part of the pit, are suitable for its installation.

Proper arrangement of a cesspool in a private home will allow you to safely dispose of wastewater with minimal effort and without significant expense. In this case, the container will not be a source of unpleasant odor.

Video

In this subsection you can watch a video on the topic of our article, which shows the intricacies of installing a cesspool in a private house with your own hands.

House sewerage in a private house is represented by a cesspool. It is necessary to build a pit, fill the bottom with concrete or fill it with crushed stone, cover it with rings or bricks. The design is quite simple; if you wish, you can do all the work yourself. You can also turn to professionals and monitor all processes personally, having previously familiarized yourself with the necessary information.

The design of a drainage pit largely depends on the needs of the owners of a summer house or private house. So, for a small amount of waste and using the pit only on weekends, a design without a bottom is suitable. But for permanent use you will have to equip a closed version.

A cesspool without a bottom is similar to a well. Equipped with walls that prevent contaminants from entering the soil. The bottom is covered with crushed stone, which acts as a filter. You can clean such a pit much less often.

It is recommended to separate sewer drains and use different pits for toilets, showers, and cesspools. This will allow the toilet drain to become clogged more slowly.

Bioactivators can be used to accelerate the decomposition of waste. Only silt will remain in the hole, and the water is removed using a filter. Soil bacteria also act, but their small quantities are not enough to process large volumes.

Contraindications to installing cesspools without a bottom:

You cannot install a sewer near groundwater. When there are spring floods, the water level in the pit rises. In addition, soil pollution occurs due to runoff, since the water is not filtered.
It is contraindicated to place a waste pit on clay soils. Such soils do not allow water to pass through well, which will make filtration difficult.
The recommended pit volume is 1 cubic meter. m.

Sealed pits are wastewater storage tanks. The waste is pumped out using special machines. Of course, you will have to turn to professionals for help, but such a structure is more environmentally friendly and universal for installation on any type of soil. The role of closed cesspools is often performed by special structures - septic tanks.

Rules for installing a drainage pit in a private house

First you need to decide on the location of the sewer pit. It is important to consider a number of factors. So the drain should not be placed next to the house, and the size of the pipes should not be too long. The cleaning machine must have free access to the drainage pit.

Sanitary requirements for the construction of a cesspool:

There should be at least 5 m from the pit to nearby buildings;
Groundwater should not reach 1 m to the sewer;
The distance to a well or borehole depends on the type of soil: clay - 20 m, sandy loam - 50 m, loam - 30 m;
The interval from the fence to the edge of the drainage is 1 m.

The drainage hole will perform its functions better if you dig it with a reserve.

When determining volumes, it is necessary to take into account the composition of the soil. Clay soils, for example, do not absorb the liquid fraction well. The first year the work will be satisfactory, but every year its functionality will deteriorate.

When the dimensions of the structure are determined, pipes begin to be laid. Make a slope of a couple of centimeters for every meter. Longer lengths reduce the slope.

Scheme of a cesspool in a private house

There are several types of cesspools, so the design of each type has its own differences. May be used different materials for walls. This is how they build their pits concrete rings, brick or cinder blocks.

Scheme of a cesspool with rings:

Rings 100 cm long and 70 cm in diameter;
Hatch made of iron or wood;
Ventilation riser;
Reinforced concrete floor;
Concrete and iron support ring;
Plate on the bottom;
Cement screed.

You can increase the size of the waste pit by using more concrete rings or choosing a material with a larger diameter. There are rings with a diameter of 1.5 and 2 m. In this case, it is necessary to correctly measure the distance to wells, wells and other sources of drinking water. You also need to take into account the distance to a residential building.

The sequence of constructing a cesspool made of concrete rings

First of all, you need to create detail drawing, where the overflow system, the depth of the “well”, pipe inlets and outlets will be indicated. Then everything is prepared necessary tools and materials for work. When all preparation is completed, they begin to dig a foundation pit. When digging a hole, you must remember all the requirements of the sanitary instructions.

The dimensions of the pit depend on the rings and based on safety requirements. So, in case of close contact with groundwater, care is taken to ensure good waterproofing. When using special equipment, a three-dimensional pit is dug into two chambers at once. If you do the work yourself, then a separate pit is provided for each container.

Sequence of installation of concrete rings:

The bottom must be well compacted and leveled. Next, the plate is mounted on the bottom.
To concrete the bottom yourself, first fill in a sand cushion. 30 cm of material is enough, after which everything is compacted. Next, the formwork and armored belt are installed and everything is filled with concrete.
If there is no bottom, another preparation of the base occurs. There is no need to compact the soil. For filtration, a layer of crushed stone is poured.
Apply along the edges of the tiled base cement-sand mortar, on which the first ring rests. Next, the remaining rings are laid according to the same principle.
When the sewer requires better strength, the rings are additionally fastened together using bolts or metal plates.
Cut holes for pipes with overflow. The sewer pipes are led into a receiving tank.

The entire structure must be well sealed. All joints, cracks and crevices must be sealed. For this, cement or other sealants are used. This work is carried out on both sides of the rings. An additional layer of waterproofing will also need to be laid on the outside of the ring.

To enhance waterproofing, the walls are covered with clay 30-50 cm thick.

All that remains is to install the ceilings. Channels or corners are mounted on the rings, and formwork with a cutout for hatches is placed on them. Next, a layer of waterproofing, reinforced belt and ventilation are installed. Flooded sewer pit covered with polyethylene. After drying, the film is removed and the floor is covered with earth.

Installation of a brick cesspool

First, choose a place to install a cesspool. It is important to follow sanitary rules. The location of the drinking water source is taken into account. Also, at the preparation stage, they stock up on all the necessary tools.

It is imperative to install ventilation that will remove methane. If it is missing, the sewer may explode. A special hatch is made for this.

Stages of laying a hole with bricks:

The walls are leveled and protected from crumbling;
The bottom is covered with a sand cushion;
Concrete is poured on top of the sand;
A week later it's done cement-concrete screed(you can put a ready-made concrete slab);
Bricklaying;
Installation of waterproofing;
Installation of the floor, for this purpose reinforced concrete is used.

The ceiling is equipped with a hole for a hatch. Through it you can pump out sewage. At independent equipment covers need to make formwork. It is filled with two layers of concrete. Next, the device is covered with film. When the concrete dries, the formwork is covered with earth on top.

Do-it-yourself cesspool equipment without pumping

The absorption pit provides autonomous sewerage, which you can lay out with your own hands. The drainage pit has an open bottom, on which a layer of crushed stone is laid. Liquid drainage seeps through the stones, while solid waste remains in the pit.

For large volumes of waste, it is recommended to install a septic tank, since soil microorganisms will not be able to cope with such work.

Bacteria from the soil feed on organic matter, processing it. The depth of the pit depends on the number of family members and the intensity of waste. On average, 120-200 liters per day are allocated per person. Liquid with water seeps through the crushed stone after 3 days.

Advantages of a drain pit without pumping:

Simple arrangement;
All materials are freely available;
Quick installation.

But there are also disadvantages to this design. There is always an unpleasant odor from the waste. It is also worth noting that an open sewage pit threatens nature.

DIY cesspool (video)

A burial pit is necessary sewerage installation for a country house, private house or cottage. There are 2 options for cesspool drainage. Pit open type does not provide a bottom. Only a stone layer is poured onto the bottom, which performs filtering functions. Closed drain – completely sealed design. Its installation requires the construction of a solid bottom and lid.

Why is it that in dachas where there is no centralized sewage system, they often use the most primitive type of toilet - with a bucket? Not at all out of a desire to get as much compost as possible over the summer, but because of basic ignorance of how to properly arrange a cesspool. Many simply do not want to deal with calling a sewer man, believing that they will incur the wrath of the management of the dacha cooperative. In fact, such a truck is no more than a truck crane, dump truck or concrete mixer, which is allowed to enter gardening areas: otherwise you won’t be able to build a house. And with a properly planned cesspool, you won’t often have to call sewage disposal equipment. With these arguments, it is easy to solve once and for all the organizational problem of building a cesspool.

There is another obstacle to the construction of a basic sewerage system - the fear of violating sanitary standards, which will lead to contamination of the area with putrefactive bacteria. In everyday life, people are afraid of getting a source of stench close to summer house, therefore they prefer to install a “green house” away from housing. But with a modest size summer cottages the toilet may be right under the neighbors' windows. At a private house personal plot It turns out to be larger in area, and the owner has more freedom of action. However, even here there may be a fear of building “such a complex” structure incorrectly, which will lead to disastrous consequences. However, for a sewer system such as a cesspool in a private house, the scheme is quite simple. And it depends to a large extent on the nature of the soil.

What mistakes happen when building cesspools?

A cesspool is a source of unpleasant odor, which appears as a result of the accumulation of sewage, and is also a breeding ground for germs and bacteria. It is necessary to correctly calculate the location of the well, as well as carry out its maintenance in a timely manner.

Indeed, mistakes when arranging a cesspool can lead to undesirable consequences, among which “amber” on the site is the least evil. It’s easy to deal with: the pit needs to be closed. It is this step that will allow it to be done even close to the house, but at such a distance as to ensure access for a sewer truck. At the same time, you need to build a real sewer system in the house, like in a city apartment. And to prevent bad odors from spreading from plumbing fixtures, do not forget about water seals. This is the second most common mistake when installing a sewer system in private homes: the owners understand perfectly well that the toilet must have such a valve - it is built into the design of the device - but they forget that the drainage holes of the bathtub, sink, sink and shower go into the same cesspool, and they don’t make siphons.

In a private house or country house, where the sewer system is installed by the owner himself, there is a temptation to install drain holes on the floor of bathrooms to protect yourself from a hypothetical flood associated with faulty faucets or pipes. But such a hole must also contain an overflow that provides a water seal. It is necessary to ensure that the water in it does not stagnate and at the same time does not dry out. Then foreign odors will not appear.

Another mistake - wrong choice depth for laying the drain pipe. You first need to find out what the level of soil freezing is, and then just plan the location of the sewer pipe at the exit from the building. Under no circumstances should the drain freeze if the house is used, even temporarily, during the winter.

Important! Do not forget that the sewer beds should not be strictly horizontal, but have a slope of at least two to three degrees per meter, otherwise there will be no natural outflow of water from the house into the cesspool.

It is important not to make a mistake with the size of the cesspool, so as not to constantly be afraid that it is about to overflow. In this case, it is advisable to calculate the volume not for the entire structure, but for that part of it that is located below the drain pipe. This volume is calculated based on the needs of the family.

You cannot build a cesspool diagram by copying it from another site, because both the soil and the soil may be different. When building a structure, you need to use the data of your site:

geodetic;
soil science;
soil samples;
depth of aquifers.

Why is a closed cesspool an incomplete cycle treatment facility?

A cesspool is a kind of septic tank that processes incoming water, but does not provide complete purification.

A closed cesspool is not just a settling tank for liquid waste: it processes the contents by anaerobic bacteria, with the exception, perhaps, of the layer that is in direct contact with the air. It is known that anaerobic bacteria perform the initial stage of converting wastewater into more clean water. After fermentation with their participation, the water does not lose, but changes its smell - to a marshy one. The water does not become clear from this purification: the turbidity remains at this stage. Also, solid particles of mechanical suspension can settle in the pit, and if there is a desire to separate them to produce compost, then you can build a chamber with an overflow from the sump into the septic tank. Naturally, such a septic tank provides far from complete water purification, and they are also subject to disposal by a sewage disposal machine. The design of such a cesspool will be much more complicated, since it is, in fact, the simplest.

Let's return to soil research. If you find that the groundwater in your area is deep, you can turn the cesspool into a filtration well. This scheme is called a cesspool without a bottom. You can indirectly determine whether the water lies deep by this criterion: if most neighbors have dug wells rather than boreholes, it means that shallow aquifers have been found on their property. If everyone uses wells exclusively, then you need to ask how deep they are. But for a final decision, it is necessary to verify this with the help of hydrological studies. If it is not possible to carry them out, then it is better to choose a sealed cesspool scheme, since it is universal.

Cesspool in a private house. Scheme without bottom

Such a pit actually has a bottom, but it is not airtight. With this scheme, nature itself is given the opportunity to purify wastewater, much like what happens with rainwater in nature. It must be remembered that the contents of sewage drains are often a more aggressive environment than rainwater. They may contain not only soap, but also more caustic detergents, and the soil must completely recycle them before they reach the aquifer. To do this, it is necessary that it be at a depth of more than 2.5 meters. The nature of the soil also matters: it should be sandy loam or sandy type.

The figure shows a diagram of a cesspool without a bottom, this design assumes that there is no concrete base at the bottom of the pit, and filtration occurs naturally using natural soil.

“Entrusting” the soil with filtration is short-sighted, so the bottom needs to be covered with a cushion of fine crushed stone and sand. No more than a cubic meter of liquid should pass through such a “sieve” per day. It is always better to reinforce this permeable bottom with geotextiles. It will prevent the sand from moving, seeping between larger soil particles. If the filter is made of backfill of different fractions, it is better to layer them with water-permeable geomaterials.

Not only the shallow occurrence of groundwater, but also the large volume of discharges from the house, as well as the clayey nature of the soil, speaks against the construction of such a structure. In this situation, you should build a sealed pit. As for the walls and top, these structures can be the same for pits with different types bottom, so you can move on to studying the sealed structure.

Scheme of a sealed cesspool

If it is impossible to use a ready-made one, since a significant size of the pit is needed, you can build it yourself. To do this, you need to calculate the volume of drains (below the pipe!) and calculate the diameter of the structure. The volume is calculated based on half a cubic meter per person. But this is only the minimum, so you need to make a reserve due to the following situations:

there may be guests in the house;
it is impossible to ensure a timely call for a vacuum cleaner;
a pipe breaks, which further loads the sewer system;
it is planned to connect new appliances that require drainage: washing or dishwasher, shower cabin, etc.

This is why reserve volume is desirable. Once it is known, you need to choose the material for the walls. It can be brick or concrete - in the form of well rings. But whatever the material, the elements must be connected with a waterproof solution in order to avoid the penetration of the contents of the pit into the ground and soil, as well as melt water into the pit, which would significantly reduce its resource. The bottom of such a pit is best made of concrete, for which you can use a specialized reinforced concrete product - the bottom of the well. It has the same diameter as well rings, but it can also be used as a bottom for a brick structure.

A sealed cesspool is a structure, usually presented in the form of a container made of concrete structures(bottom, rings, top, hatch)

For reliable waterproofing structures, you can use special geomembranes, which are used in the construction of building plinths. This material is easily butt-joined, but this does not mean that it does not need to be welded. The sheets connected not only by overlapping, but also by welding will provide excellent insulation from moisture from the outside. The inside of the container can be covered with waterproof cement, which was also used in the seams between rings or bricks.

How to make the top of a closed cesspool

Open cesspools carry a potential danger - the possibility of falling through, so you need to make the top of a closed pit strong, and not make do with lightweight covers. This also applies to the hatch through which cleaning will be carried out. The upper part of the structure is ideally reinforced concrete slab. The industry produces such an element for well rings. It has a hole for a standard sewer hatch, which it is advisable to install, but only choose its modification made of durable plastic. Such a lid will be easy to open, but at the same time it will not fall through, even if children play on it. Plastic lids are available in a version with a lock, which guarantees safety for children: they will never open this hatch.

If upper part If the hatch is built from a concrete slab and the hatch is made independently, then it is necessary to ensure that the lid fits tightly and is so heavy that only an adult can open it.

It is desirable that the top slab be covered with soil and soil, while the hatch itself protrudes outward. If the house is used during the snowy period, then it is necessary to provide a small height of the hatch above ground level to make it easier to find and dig out in the snow.

The image shows a diagram of creating a cesspool: preparing the pit - reinforcement - construction for formwork - erecting walls and laying pipes, creating the upper part and ventilation outlet.

To go down into the pit and clean it after pumping out sewage, the hatch must be made so that an adult can crawl into it.

How to calculate a place for a cesspool?

You can also determine the location for the structure next to the house, because it is hermetically sealed at the top. In this case, the length of the sewer pipes will be minimal. But you need to be as far away from water wells – yours and your neighbors’ – as possible. The structure should not be located near bodies of water. If the soil is clayey, then you need to retreat 20 meters from all named water sources. When it is sandy or sandy loam, it is better to retreat 50 meters, because such soil has the property of osmosis, that is, like a wick, it draws liquids into itself. For loamy soils, the distance can be reduced to 30 m.

The bottom of the pit should not be lower than 1 m to groundwater. It is better to make the area of this tank larger than to deepen it too much, risking either contamination from a hole without a bottom, or the floating of a sealed container. There is always some amount of air in it, so in melted underground water it will work like a float. If there is no concrete ring of the calculated diameter, the pit can be made square or rectangular by placing a slab of waterproof reinforced concrete at the base.

Scheme correct location cesspool on the site, calculation of distance from water sources and residential premises.

You need to step back at least a meter from the fence, and from the road - just like from reservoirs. Any road has modified soil underneath. It can be compacted, replaced with a sand and crushed stone cushion, therefore, how it will behave in the vicinity of a cesspool is not known in advance.

Little tricks from the experts

If you have determined a place for a cesspool that is equidistant from all sources of water, roads, and reservoirs, then it is not a fact that you will be able to lay the pipe at the desired slope and at the same time manage to place it completely below the freezing depth of the soil. There is a way out of this situation: you need to insulate the pipe so that the water in it does not freeze. It is better to do insulation along the entire length of the pipe before it enters the container, so as not to get a “cold bridge”.

Plumber,

Ravil Rakhmatullin.

If you are building a cesspool without a bottom, then it is better to stock up on material and take the time to make it from two overflow wells. The first of them will be sealed, the second – filtration. This will produce fertile sludge that can be disposed of separately, and the risk of groundwater contamination will be much lower. It is important that the pipe between these containers must also be inclined, if they are not located next to each other, since in this case gravity flow must be ensured.

Builder,

Leonid Knyazhinov.

There is no need to copy the location of sewer facilities even from your nearest neighbor. The condition of the soil and ground, even in adjacent areas, may be different. Your neighbor has everything clean, solid soil, but you have a whole underground river or stream running through it. You also need to pay special attention areas on slopes, because there it may happen that on one side the hole will be below the freezing level of the soil, and on the other - above, and if an entry is made into it from this side, then it is better to insulate it.

Sergey Dlinnov.

When a sewer pipe passes through walls - in the foundation and cesspool, it is better to lay sleeves from pipes of larger diameter, and then pass the main drain pipe into them. Then even small tectonic movements will not be scary for you.

Builder,

Boris Burdyukevich

How to draw a diagram of a cesspool?

To summarize, we outline all the parameters that must be taken into account in the cesspool diagram:

Its design;
depth of groundwater;
soil and soil composition;
soil freezing depth;
site topology;
location of all sources of drinking water, roads and reservoirs;

The choice of materials is also important - plastic, brick, concrete. Creating a diagram, and based on it - drawings of a future building, is not a difficult task. And if you have construction skills, then building such a structure yourself is quite possible. If you take into account all the details, then no one will suffer from your well or septic tank: neither you nor your neighbors. If you choose closed type cesspool - this will be the safest and cheapest sewage system to install for a country house.

Sewage is one of the most important benefits of civilization. Without sewerage, washing, showering, taking a bath and going to the toilet are accompanied by difficulties and inconveniences. But connect to a centralized sewer system not always possible - it is not available for remote villages, summer cottages and cottage communities. The way out of the problem is to set up your own facilities for collection, cleaning and disposal. waste water. The simplest and cheapest solution is to build a cesspool without a bottom with your own hands.

How does a cesspool without a bottom work?

There are two types of cesspools:

sealed;
leaky, without bottom;

The first are a simple structure made of concrete, brick or plastic, completely waterproof. They collect liquid and solid waste coming through the sewer pipe. Regularly, on average 1-2 times a month, a sewer truck must pump them out of a sealed drain pit. The services of such specialists are expensive, so some owners are thinking about how to partially recycle sewage using soil purification.

And most simple option are leaky cesspools. They are a shallow well made from bricks, old tires or concrete rings. They do not have a sealed bottom - either the soil itself is located there, or a filter pad made of sand, gravel or crushed stone. Also, many holes are created in the walls of the cesspool for the purpose of drainage. Through them and the bottom, liquid sewage partially goes into the ground and undergoes natural soil purification. The rest remains in the well and is pumped out by a sewer truck 1-2 times a year.

You might be interested in information about what it looks like

Such a structure is suitable for solving the problem of waste in a country house visited during spring and summer, or for a village house where 1-2 people live. For big family without a bottom are not an effective and environmentally friendly solution - in this case, it is preferable to build several concrete wells.

Advantages and disadvantages of a cesspool without a bottom

Let's briefly look at the good and bad aspects of the design of a leaky cesspool. Its advantages include the following.

Extremely low price structures compared to the cost of a full-fledged septic tank - both factory-made and home-made, built from rings or monolithic concrete.
Easy to create - a pit and a trench for the pipe are dug, the walls of the cesspool and a lid are installed, and the connection is made. Without any problems, all these activities can be completed independently.
Speed of construction - it is quite possible to equip a cesspool without a bottom made of concrete rings in a couple of days.
Lower costs compared to a sealed cesspool - you can call a sewer truck not every month, but only 1-2 times during the whole year.

Due to its simplicity and maximum cheapness, such a sewer structure has serious disadvantages.

Environmental problems - if this is placed near a source of drinking water, then over time the latter may become unusable - sewage seeping through the soil will poison it with E. coli and other microorganisms. It is possible to drink from such a well, but it is not safe.
Possibility of conflict with neighbors - those who live next to you are unlikely to like the existence of a potential source of pollution. But, as practice shows, this is a problem only for well-maintained cottage communities and gardening communities - in other places, most likely, neighbors have the same or even simpler facilities for collecting sewage.
Problems with SES. If the sanitary and epidemiological service comes to your site to inspect it, it may consider the presence of a cesspool with sewage seeping into the soil a violation of standards, with corresponding consequences.
Short life of work - it should be understood that such a cesspool is unable to function for a long time– over time, the soil around it will silt and stop letting water through in the same volume. As a result, the structure will fill with wastewater faster, so it will have to be moved to a new location or replaced with a full-fledged septic tank. Or use the services of sewer cleaners more often.

Choosing a location for the cesspool

It was mentioned several times above that a cesspool without a bottom is not best solution from an environmental and compliance point of view sanitary standards. But a competent choice of location for its construction will minimize possible risks and avoid poisoning of reservoirs and wells.

It is worth saying that current sanitary and construction standards do not give a clear answer to the question of whether it is admissible or, conversely, inadmissible to build a cesspool without a bottom. Below are some excerpts from various documents.

So, if possible, a leaky cesspool should be created on soils with good water permeability and in places where the groundwater level is at least 1 meter below the bottom.

The list below contains minimum distances between a similar structure and various objects:

from the cesspool to the drinking well - at least 50 m;
to the reservoir - at least 30 m;
to trees and vegetable gardens - at least 5 m;
to the road or site boundary – from 2 to 4 m;
to residential buildings – 5 m.

Advice! Before starting construction, familiarize yourself with how the sewage collection structures of your closest neighbors are constructed. Also, if the matter occurs at the dacha, discuss this issue with the chairman of the partnership. This will avoid unnecessary conflicts and reduce the likelihood of inspectors from the sanitary service visiting your site.

Construction of a cesspool without a bottom from concrete rings

The most popular material for independent arrangement cesspools without a bottom, drainage wells and septic tanks are rings made of concrete. They have sufficient strength for such a structure, their installation does not take much time, and their low price makes these products accessible to any household. The process of making a cesspool without a bottom from concrete rings with your own hands is given below in the form of step-by-step instructions.

Important! Before you begin excavation work, determine how many concrete rings and what size you need. For convenience, the main characteristics of the most popular products are summarized in a table.

Table. Dimensions, weight and volume of concrete rings manufactured in accordance with GOST 8020-90.

Name	Inner diameter, m	External diameter, m	Height, m	Weight, kg	Internal volume, m3
KS10.3	1	1,16	0,29	≈200	≈0,3
KS10.6	1	1,16	0,59	≈400	≈0,62
KS10.9	1	1,16	0,89	≈600	≈0,94
KS15.6	1	1,68	0,59	≈660	≈1,3
KS15.9	1,5	1,68	0,89	≈1000	≈1,97
KS20.6	2	2,2	0,59	≈970	≈2,24
KS20.9	2	2,2	0,89	≈1480	≈3,38

Step 1. Start building a cesspool without a bottom by determining the location where it will be located. This is discussed in more detail in the previous section of the article.

Step 2. At the selected location, mark and determine the boundaries of the future pit. Its diameter is made 20-30 cm larger than the outer diameter of the concrete ring.

Step 3. Begin direct soil extraction. If the cesspool is supposed to be shallow and there is enough time, then you can do the excavation work manually. It is advisable to do this in pairs - one digs, and the other lifts the extracted soil upward. The work is greatly facilitated by using a bucket with a strong rope and garden wheelbarrow(or walk-behind tractor).

Important! If, when digging a pit by hand, it is discovered that the soil is prone to crumbling, then for reasons of your own safety, work should be stopped immediately. Otherwise, there is a risk of suddenly being covered with earth. In such situations, you will have to bring in an excavator.

Step 4. Regularly measure the depth of the pit using a tape measure. For cesspools without a bottom, this depth does not exceed 3 m. Also remember that there must be a distance of at least 1 m (preferably more) between sewage drains and groundwater.

Step 5. Delivery of concrete rings is usually carried out by the manufacturer, and they are brought in by truck with a crane. Check the availability of all ordered products and their quality.

Step 6. Using a crane, immerse the first concrete ring into the pit.

The ring is lowered into the pit

Important! To better fix the rings to each other, apply cement mortar to their ends before laying the new product.

Step 7 In the same way, place the second and subsequent rings on the first ring. At the same time, align them relative to each other.

Step 8 Complete the laying of concrete products by installing the top round slab in which a hole is cut for the hatch.

Step 9 In loam conditions for effective drainage a large contact area will be required. If you live in an area where the soil does not absorb water well, drill a series of medium-sized drainage holes in the bottom of the sump pit. Their total area should reach 10% of the total area inner surface structures.

Important! Often, a cushion of crushed stone with a thickness of 30 to 50 cm is poured onto the bottom of such a cesspool. Its use allows you to at least slightly clean the sewage drains going into the ground. At the same time, the filler of such a pillow requires regular replacement or washing, which is not the most pleasant and simple job. Each homeowner must decide for himself what is more important to him - the ability not to pollute the surrounding land and groundwater too much or the absence of the need to go down into the cesspool and replace the crushed stone filtration bed. Instead of the latter, you can use regular sand.

Step 11 Fill the space between the walls of the pit and the concrete rings with earth or sand.

Step 10 Complete the arrangement of a cesspool without a bottom made of concrete rings by connecting a sewer pipe and installing a hatch.

Prices for concrete rings

concrete rings

Video - Cesspool

Construction of a cesspool without a bottom made of brick

Another, no less popular option for a cesspool is a structure made of brick. It should be understood that it will require more time and effort than a structure made of concrete rings. But if you have a lot of unused bricks left on your site after building a house, fence or barn, then it makes sense to put them to work and make a cesspool without a bottom entirely with your own hands, without involving third-party people and construction equipment. It will help you in this matter step by step instructions with photographs below.

Step 1. To build a brick cesspool, like any other sewerage structure, start with earthworks– choose a location and start digging a pit of the appropriate size.

Important! The presence of a simple lifting device will greatly facilitate the process of extracting soil from the pit.

Step 2. Check the depth and diameter of the pit using a tape measure.

Step 3. Get rid of the earth removed during the construction of the pit. At the same time, leave part of it for subsequent filling of the roof of the structure.

Step 4. At the bottom of the pit, build a flat ring of bricks, as in the image below. It will play the role of a kind of foundation under the walls of the cesspool.

Step 5. Proceed with laying the lower part of the brick cesspool walls. If you have not previously dealt with such material, then building this structure will be good practice for you, during which you will gain basic skills in working with bricks.

Important! Sand-lime bricks absorb water well and are gradually destroyed. If you want your cesspool to last longer, replace them with ceramic ones.

Step 6. Continue laying and rise higher and higher, to the edge of the pit. Fill the space between its walls and brick with sand - it absorbs water well and partially filters it before it enters the ground.

Step 7 Complete the laying of the walls of the brick cesspool, not reaching a little to the surface of the ground.

Step 8 Take it to the cesspool sewer pipe from home.

Step 9 Reinforce the sump pit using a metal angle installed as shown in the image below. Instead it is allowed to use wooden beam, but the latter will not last too long - over time, the material in an aggressive environment will begin to deteriorate and rot.

Step 10 Place the same flat brick ring on top as at the bottom of the cesspool.

Step 11 Close the cesspool from above concrete slab, manufactured in advance or poured on site. Do not forget about the hole for the hatch, through which sewage will be regularly pumped out.

A cesspool without a bottom is a quick and economical solution to the problem of sewage disposal. But, if possible, replace it over time with a full-fledged septic tank produced at a factory or.

And a dug pit where all the sewage goes. Despite everything positive aspects such structures, they can be dangerous to humans due to microorganisms that begin to multiply abundantly at above-zero temperatures.

Basics

If a cesspool was built without taking into account all sanitary and technical standards (according to SNiP), sewage can seep into the soil and then into groundwater, which can lead to severe poisoning of the body. If you do drain hole do it yourself, do not forget to take into account all the requirements for the work.

How to build a sealed model?

In general, it is no different from the previous method, but there are still minor differences:

The bottom needs to be concreted.
No infiltration holes required.

The diagram looks like this:

To begin with, it is reinforced bottom part concrete base.
To prevent the reinforcement from sinking, it can be raised and secured on pegs.
The walls require careful sealing. Most inexpensive option- this is bitumen; plaster or clay is suitable for the external part.

Brickwork in this case takes much longer.

Installation of ready-made models

You can carry out a standard solution, dig a pit according to the classical scheme and purchase finished product. The owner will need to prepare a place for the pillow, which is made of gravel and concrete. This structure should be strengthened within a week, after which the finished kit is laid.

Conclusion

Without a properly functioning one it is impossible to create comfortable conditions accommodation. The process is not complicated, you can do it yourself. Don't skimp on materials; you'll be using the drain pit for a long time. The main thing is to ensure sufficient volume and regular maintenance. If the work is done correctly, you can enjoy the coziness and comfort of your country house for many years.