Drawing of a sailboat made of plywood. We cut out ship models from wood with our own hands. DIY wooden ship model. Wooden ship models for beginners. Sailing rig of the ship

Content

Recently, decorative items that are made from recycled materials or from materials that are conventionally called garbage, for example, cardboard boxes from appliances, have been in fashion. On the other hand, it has become fashionable to create various figures and models of equipment from paper. In this article we will try to create some interesting ship models from cardboard. For some of these models you will need ready-made templates, and some products can be created without diagrams, using your imagination. At the end of the article you will definitely find a video lesson that will help you consolidate your knowledge and create interesting product from improvised means. Let's not waste time, prepare the materials and start creating.

Templates

Let's first try to create a ship using templates. They are easier to work with. What you will need:

thick cardboard (you can use an old box);
scissors;
pencil;
ready-made template;
glue or tape;
colored paper and other decor.

First you need to print the template and transfer it to the main material. By the way, if you are using cardboard that is not too thick, you can print the template directly on it.

You should get something like this:

Next, you need to dilute a little PVA glue with water, cut plain paper into pieces and dip them in the solution and glue them to the base of the ship. Remember the papier-mâché technique. It is better to connect the ship parts themselves using tape.

All that remains now is to decorate the blank with the prepared decor. This can be colored paper, wrapping paper, fabric. The ship can also be painted with ordinary watercolors.

You also need to make a mast for the ship. You can use an ordinary twig and several round pieces of thick cardboard.

Every boat must have a flag. For it, use fabric and applique made of paper or material. The sail can also be made from cardboard, use the bushings from toilet paper.

Making a big ship

Such option will do for little children who love exciting games. For such a ship you will need a large box. This could even be packaging from under a refrigerator or from a large TV.

First you need to connect the valves of the box and make a sharp bow of the vessel. On the sides you need to cut out several round timbers to make improvised portholes. Use a thick stick and fabric to make a flag. Use paints to decorate the ship.

Don't forget about details such as the anchor - it also needs to be made of thick material and decorated. Big ship made from cardboard with your own hands, ready to sail through the endless expanses of the apartment.

We use matchboxes

Let's call this modeling, because we will create from several matchboxes the whole ship. What you will need:

cardboard;
glue;
matchboxes;
wooden skewer or thick paper;
colored paper;
markers;
scissors.

First you need to glue two matchboxes together with the short sides. Glue another box on top in the middle.

Now you need to cut out a rectangular piece of paper and glue it to the structure on top.

Now we need to cut out a strip from thick colored cardboard, with which we will form the bow of the ship.

Now you need to cut out a piece of cardboard that will correspond to the contours of the ship, look at the photo:

Now the bottom and top of the ship need to be fastened with glue. Next you need to make the mast. You can use a wooden skewer or roll up an A4 sheet very tightly and secure the tip to prevent the sheet from unwinding.

In the upper matchbox the ship needs to make a hole so that the mast can be inserted. Don't forget to use glue.

Now all that remains is to cut out the sails from colored paper, paint them and attach them to the mast.

The matchbox ship is ready! It can be made wider and higher if you use more matchboxes. If you use very thick cardboard for the bottom of the ship, then it is quite possible to float it on the water and participate in competitions for the title of the fastest boat.

DIY cardboard spaceship

We suggest using a fairly simple option that will allow you to literally create a 3D model. To do this, you need to cut out several identical parts from cardboard, but different sizes. The parts need to be fastened together, but placing between them either a thin piece of foam rubber or a small piece thick paper. It will look something like this:

Or like this:

Kiss space station can be made using cardboard rolls from toilet paper and tape.

Use silver foil, a compass, a black marker and a pencil to create spaceship realistic look.

Cardboard is a fairly convenient and easy-to-work material, but if you know a few nuances, the work will seem even simpler, and the product itself will turn out neat:

When working with very dense material, use fairly sharp scissors, or even better, a stationery knife;
before bending the cardboard parts, it is better to draw along the dotted lines with the non-sharp side of scissors or an old pen that does not write, then the material will bend neatly and evenly;
Not in all cases you can use a glue gun. For example, if you are working with thin material, then it is better to use office glue or PVA;
work in a room where there is not too much high humidity, otherwise your products may delaminate or parts may not stick together;
the room should be light, it is advisable to have a window that can be opened and ventilate the room;
We also always advise you to work only in a good mood.

How to make a ship out of cardboard with your own hands - a few more interesting options

We would like to offer a few more interesting and beautiful options ships that you can make with your own hands.

In this case, a milk carton, cardboard boxes and a sleeve are used.

And this is a luxury boat made from an ordinary cardboard box.

A little practice and imagination and you can end up with something like this: pirate ship from cardboard with your own hands. We always advise you to involve children in creativity. They will be especially pleased to know that they are creating a boat just for themselves. At the same time, you can think about a pirate costume, and also make a spyglass, a hat and a cardboard knife out of cardboard. Such participation of children in creativity helps to develop their imagination, attentiveness, perseverance, and the desire to create something with their own hands for themselves. Be sure to involve children in cleaning too. Explain to them that after themselves they need to fold all the materials, put them in their places, and also need to clean up workplace so that later you can get creative again.

Sheets of compressed and glued wood veneer are the main material for all modeling enthusiasts. This material is easy to cut, well processed, and you can find drawings of ships made of plywood on the Internet, since it is from plywood patterns that many craftsmen begin to get acquainted with this art.

Creating ship models yourself is not the easiest task, but it is doable. You will need some knowledge and skill. In this article we will tell you about the basic techniques, and if you wish, you will hone your skills yourself.

Required materials

If you want to make a small ship model, you will need the following materials:

Wood - linden, walnut, cedar or other species, preferably non-fibrous and soft. Wood products must be smooth, free from damage and knots. Wood can be used as a material for the main parts of the model - the deck and hull, as well as for small elements.
Plywood. This material is most in demand. For ship modeling they use balsa or birch plywood, since they are less susceptible to chipping when cutting. Model ship plywood usually has a thickness of 0.8-2 mm.
Veneer – thin plates natural wood expensive breeds. As a rule, they are used for veneering, that is, gluing surfaces made of inexpensive materials.
Fastening elements - laces, thin chains, brass and copper nails, threads, etc.

You will definitely need wood glue, tracing paper and cardboard to transfer the templates. Small parts are made of metal. As an alternative to metal, you can use colored polymer clay.

Every job must begin with preparation, and modeling is no exception. First you need to decide what you plan to build. If you have not encountered the art of ship modeling before, we recommend that you first find drawings of a plywood ship on the Internet: they usually contain the information you need and even a beginner can understand them.

On sale you can find ready-made kits that allow you to assemble a ship from ready-made parts. Beginners should be interested in such kits, although they are sometimes quite expensive. It is better to master the technology from the very beginning.

Print out the drawing and make templates for the main elements based on it. We transfer the templates to plywood, and then proceed to sawing.

Cutting out parts

Blanks can be cut with a manual or electric jigsaw. The latter is more expensive, but with it you will have less hassle when cutting out small elements:

We do it in plywood sheet starting hole and insert a blade or jigsaw file into it.
We cut out the part, moving along the intended contour.
We process the created workpiece using a file, removing small chamfers along the edges and removing burrs and chips.

When working on one part (sides, deck, keel, etc.), you need to immediately cut out everything necessary. This way you will spend less time and the work will move faster.

When everything is prepared, you can begin assembly.

Assembly sequence

Work must be carried out in the following sequence:

First, we put transverse frames on the keel (longitudinal beam). At the bottom of each of them there is usually a groove for attaching to a plywood keel.
To join, you can use standard glue, but you can use special adhesive mixtures that are intended for ship modeling.
We fix the upper parts of the frames on the deck. U simple models The deck of ships consists of one sheet of plywood, but for complex ones it can be multi-level.
After the glue has dried on the frames, you can begin covering the side thin stripes plywood. The thickness of the material should not exceed 1.5 mm, since only in this case can you bend the skin without the risk of damaging it.
To bend veneered plywood, it can be heated and moistened. After this, the material bends easily, and over time takes on a stable shape.

You can cover the body for painting with a continuous sheet. To imitate plank cladding, it is better to use strips up to a centimeter wide, depending on the scale.

Secure the glued plywood with clips and clamps and leave to dry.

Final finishing

Once the case is assembled and dried, you will need to do the following:

Make deck superstructures from thin plywood and secure them.
The sides must be built up so that they protrude above the plane of the deck.
We cover the surface of the deck wood veneer or we draw lines with an awl, imitating plank cladding.
Make and install all the small elements such as the steering blade and steering wheel.
Attach the masts with additional devices (spars), set the sails and stretch the structure using rigging threads.

Finally, the plywood elements must be treated with stain and varnished. This will provide the souvenir with at least a couple of decades of complete preservation.

Conclusions

The first thing you need before creating a wooden ship with your own hands is desire. Almost anyone can make a simple plywood boat with their own hands - you just need patience and minimal skills with a jigsaw. If you decide to implement a complex drawing with numerous small details, you will need to work hard. This is why we recommend starting with the simplest models. Gradually improving your skills.

Try making a beautiful wooden model of a sailboat and join a new hobby!

Making a ship model is a pleasure, relaxation after the bustle of the city, lively and warm wood promotes calm. Here you will get satisfaction from acquiring new skills and techniques for making a ship model and great pride from the final result. Surely beautiful and large wooden ship models will remain your family heirloom and will be passed on to your grandchildren.
We often receive the question: “Where to start, which ship model to choose, which company is better, what tools are needed to make ship models of different levels of complexity.” Of course, it is impossible to answer these questions comprehensively and accurately; much is purely individual, depending on your previous experience and skills, on the already accumulated range of tools, and, ultimately, on financial and time capabilities.
However, you can find partial answers to these questions in articles and reviews:

Models from the set. A series of articles on construction for beginners.
HMS Bounty. Mamoli model - a story about the production of the first model.

And, of course, our Bible:

Even if you've never built a model ship before, you can get started with this amazing hobby thanks to our sailboat model offerings. Each kit contains all the necessary parts, drawings and instructions that have gone through many years of research, design and development to become a model ship kit. In addition to the great and best choice wooden ship model kits according to the most low prices, we offer everything that will give you pleasure when making a ship model. We offer a wide variety of hand and power tools, thousands of items to complete your ship model and everything necessary materials to give the model a finished look.

It's not scary, it's much easier than you think!

Do you think making a ship model is too difficult for you? Let me assure you that many of our respected authors, “tarred aces,” began with the same doubts and questions. Start with one of the simple ship models.
Here we have collected wooden ship models that are perfect for the role of the first model:
Wooden ship models from OCCRE: great prices, clear instructions with illustrations. We have made Russian instructions for almost every ship model.

depending on the purpose of the vessel model, the hull of the model can be solid - monolithic, made of wood, bone, plastic, or hollow; in this case, tin, brass, plywood, cardboard, and paper are added to the materials listed earlier.

In the manufacture of ship model hulls, a wide variety of designs and technological methods are used. These methods are not similar to one another, but they all pursue one goal - to obtain a hull that exactly corresponds to the theoretical drawing of the ship model. Therefore, no matter what method the ship modeler uses, whatever material he uses, first of all he needs to have theoretical drawing and, using the outlines of the frames or waterline, make templates.

MONOLITHIC STRUCTURES

Cases made from solid material - be it wood, bone, plastic or some other material - are most often used for desktop, display, and historical models.

The construction of the model body begins with processing the boards and gluing them together if the body is wooden. Sometimes a piece of plastic, mass or bone of the appropriate size is looked for for the body. The sequence of manufacturing a monolithic body is shown in Figure 94. Having processed the parallelepiped-shaped timber with an allowance against the largest overall dimensions of the model body, it is necessary to make markings. When starting marking, the modeler must have in front of him an accurate theoretical drawing of the model. First you need to draw a diametric line with a thicknesser or a sharp awl on the deck, in the bow, along the bottom and in the stern. Risks must be deep and precise. Then frame lines are drawn along the deck and side, the deck is outlined, the stem, stern and side line are drawn. Marking timber is a very important moment in the work of a ship modeler, and here you need to remember a good Russian proverb: “measure seven times, and cut once.” A small mistake can lead to damage to the workpiece, and all previously completed work will be in vain.

The next step in the manufacture of the body is filing the timber. First of all, the bow and stern are cut off, then they are filed along the contour of the waterline and part of the deck is removed if the hull is made with a forecastle.

When the hull is roughly processed, they begin to shape it in accordance with the outlines of the frames. Frame templates should be cut out either from plywood or thick cardboard. Rough processing of the timber can first be done with an axe, then you should use chisels, a finishing plane, a file, and sandpaper. When processing the hull, control your work using frame templates.

HOLLOW STRUCTURES

Experience shows that ship modellers rarely resort to manufacturing solid, monolithic hulls. Even when installing a rubber engine on a model, it is necessary to have free space in the housing for the placement of hooks, a rubber band, propeller shaft. That's why modellers build mostly hollow hulls. There are many ways to build buildings; the book describes only the most common ones.

^ Papier-mâché body

Correctly, correctly building the hull of a ship model is not very easy. Therefore, the leaders of the circles can initially recommend that beginning modelers build buildings from papier-mâché. First of all, you need to make a blank. It can be made of wood as described above.

You can use another method (Fig. 95). According to a theoretical drawing or type of construction, you need to cut out a diametrical plane and frames from 3-5-1mm plywood; cut grooves in the frames and center plane. Having assembled this simple structure, it is necessary to fill the space between the frames with some plastic material. Paraffin is suitable for this purpose. Having made a drawer exactly to the size of the assembled plywood frame or cardboard box, lower the frame into it and fill it with molten paraffin. If paraffin cannot be obtained, use plasticine, clay, or alabaster. When the material has hardened, treat the outer surface of the blank. This is not difficult to do, since the frames, which must be cut very accurately, will control the correct shape of the hull. After the body blank is ready, proceed to pasting it with paper. It is best to cover the body with unglued newsprint paper. Paper should not be cut with scissors, it is better to tear it with your hands, in this

In this case, the edge does not have a sharp edge and when gluing, the layers adhere well. The prepared paper is poured in for a few minutes. warm water. The blank of the model body is smeared with Vaseline, oil or some other fat and begin to be pasted over with strips of paper. To glue paper, use paste made from potato flour or dextrin glue. The first two layers of paper are laid out without glue, the subsequent ones - with glue. Pieces of paper must be placed very tightly on top of each other, without gaps, so that the edges of adjacent layers are covered with a new piece of paper. The overlapping layers of paper should form smooth surface without bulges and depressions. For small cases, 10 layers of paper are enough, this is approximately 1.5-3 mm; for large buildings, the thickness of the cladding should be increased to 4 mm.

Having covered the body blank with 3-4 layers, you need to let the paper dry for 10-12 hours, then put another 3-4 layers and dry again.

The body of a papier-mâché model can also be made in another way: a blank is made from wood and overall dimensions, with a small allowance, make a box from 5 mm plywood (Fig. 96). Diluted plaster or alabaster is poured into the box. Then, generously lubricating the blank with Vaseline or

Rice. 96. Papier-mâché body (2nd option):

/ - lowering the blank into liquid gypsum or paraffin: 2 - plaster mold; 3 - laying sheets of paper; 4 - finished body in cross-section; 5-plywood frame frame in a papier-mâché body.

Then, they lower it into plaster and let the plaster harden. When the blank is removed from the plaster, a mold is formed. Now all that remains is to lay out the mold with several layers of paper as indicated above. With this method of manufacturing the body, the outer surface adjacent directly to plaster mold, it turns out very smooth.

Dugout hull

The blank for the dugout hull of a ship model is made in the same way as when making a papier-mâché hull. The finished blank is placed on a workbench and they begin to hollow it out

Rice. 97. Making a dugout hull of a ship model (1st option):

/ - drilling with a brace; 2 - chiseling; h - marking for drilling along theoretical frames; 4 - section along the frame.

(Fig. 97). To make the work easier and faster, it is recommended to use a hammer with a hammer and make a series of holes. Using a theoretical drawing, you can limit yourself to drilling only along the frames. You should select wood from inside the body using a chisel and a semicircular chisel.

There is another way to make a dugout hull of a ship model (Fig. 98). The timber from which the body will be made must consist of two halves, glued along the diametrical plane; a sheet of paper must be placed between the halves. Marking and initial filings]<у корпуса производят обычным способом. Затем нужно разъединить половинки и сделать пропилы ножовкой с внутренней стороны. Лишний материал выбирается с помощью стамески - сначала плоской, а потом полукруглой. Когда половинки корпуса обработаны, их склеивают. Через один шпангоут в корпус нужно врезать бимсы, на них будет крепиться палуба.

Manufacturing hollow foam hulls is not difficult, but quite labor-intensive; the hulls turn out to be rather heavy, but the precision of manufacturing<ет быть очень высокой. Дерево хорошо поддается обработке и отделке.

Puff shells

Young shipbuilders can also be offered this option for making a model hull (Fig. 99). Taking several boards, pre-

Rsh. 99. Making a layered hull of a ship model:

/ - cutting out the contour of the waterline and the inside; 2 - sawn waterline; 3 - (;; waterline peeling; 4, 5, 6 - cross-section of the glued blank; T - finished blank.

Rice. 100. Scheme for manufacturing a composite hull of a ship model (1st and 2nd options):

/ - making the bottom from a board; 2 - fastening of plywood frames and fenders; 3 - section of the composite body; sheathing with thin plywood; 5-installation of bow and stern ends, frame and stringers; 6 ~~ covering the body with thin plywood.

They are carefully planed and prepared for gluing. Then from the theoretical drawing 3 to 5 waterlines are transferred to the boards, depending on the thickness of the boards. It is also planned how much wood needs to be removed from the inside. After this, using a circular hacksaw, the inner contour is first cut out, and then the outer contour along the waterline, always with an allowance of 2-3 mm. When all the boards are cut, they are glued together and compressed with clamps. It is necessary to let the horopio boards dry and only then begin processing the wood. Processing is carried out with ordinary carpentry tools: chisels, planes, rasp, files, scrapers.

Composite housings

The base - the lower part of the hull - is made from a board in exact accordance with the theoretical drawing, then frames are cut out of plywood, fenders are installed and thin aircraft plywood 0.5-1.0 mm thick is “sewn” to them - nailed with glue. The ends - bow and stern - are made from solid pieces of wood.

This method of building hulls (Fig. 100) has become quite widespread among ship modellers, especially when building models with angular contours of frames - high-speed, planing boats and similar types of ships. For full models with a significant cylindrical insert, this method can also be recommended.

Stacked housings

The most common and rational method of manufacturing hulls for ship models should be considered the typesetting method, widely used by ship modellers. Methods for constructing composite hulls are shown in Figures 101, 102. The technology for constructing a hull using this method is to some extent similar to existing methods for constructing real ships. The work begins with cutting out the frames and making the bow and stern ends. Then the set is installed on a marked block - a kind of slipway, the place where the hull of the ship model will be assembled. Having installed the ends and frames, you need to connect them with a keel beam - keelson - and side beams - deck stringers. Then they begin to nail down pre-prepared slats with a thickness of 3-4 mm. Place pieces of cardboard or plywood under the nail heads. This is necessary so that when pulling out the nails you do not damage the body of the model. All parts are assembled using glue. When the glue dries thoroughly and sticks the slats to the frames, the nails are pulled out with pliers. When constructing composite hulls, instead of slats, you can use thin aircraft plywood or veneer as cladding. In this case, it is recommended, in addition to the fender, to install one or two side stringers.

For cladding, you can also use thin cardboard or thick drawing paper. For some hulls of high-speed planing boats, it is possible to cover the hull with fabric using waterproof glue of the “AK-20” type.

A description of methods for constructing hulls for ship models would be incomplete if we did not talk about the manufacture of metal hulls.

Metal cases

Making tin hulls is similar to building real ships; If we keep in mind that the thickness of the plating on small modern ships is 6-8-10 mm, then on a model reduced by 100 times compared to a real ship, the thickness of the plating should be 0.06-0.1 mm. Such tin is difficult to find, so you have to limit yourself to the available tin from cans; it is quite suitable for making a metal case. Work should begin with the production of a wooden model body blank according to a theoretical drawing. It is recommended to take hardwood - oak, maple, ash, beech, or, in extreme cases, birch. On the blank you need to mark the theoretical frames and cut grooves into which the frames will then be inserted. Preparation of frames is very simple. On the sheet metal, a mark is drawn with a scriber at a distance of 5 mm from the edge of the sheet, then after another 5 mm another mark, and after 10 mm a new one; According to this mark, the sheet metal is folded and the resulting strip is cut off. Then, holding the frame in a vice along the marked line, you need to straighten the bent edges of the frame-flange with a hammer as shown in Figure 103. The frame blank is placed in the slot on the blank, and with the help of a mallet the blank is given the shape of the frame. The frame is secured with a bracket made of a nail. To ensure that the frame does not protrude on the blank, it is recommended to make a cutout on it to the thickness of the sheet metal; this will ensure smooth contours of the body. Having strengthened the frames in this way, you need to prepare paper sheathing patterns and use them to cut out parts of the tin sheathing. The length of each sheet of tin for sheathing should be such that on the bottom the sheets of the starboard side overlap the sheets of the left side by 1-2 mm, and the height of the sheets should reach the edge of the deck. The sheathing sheet needs to be chopped into a blank, giving it the shape of the model body in this area, and secured with thin wallpaper nails. After securing all the sheathing sheets, you can begin soldering the sheets, having first removed the nails that secure the sheathing sheet to the frames. If the junction of two sections is not very precise, it does not matter: add a little tin and fill the gap between two adjacent sheets. And if one section overlaps another, trim the one that is not yet soldered. It is not recommended to solder the bow and stern ends, since in this case it becomes difficult to remove the body from the blank. To strengthen the nasal tip, it is advisable to solder the stem - a metal plate 1-1.5 mm thick. Inside the body, when it is removed from the blank, you need to solder several beams - cross braces of the same profile as the frames. Deck sheets

floorings should be joined on beams. At the ends, deck sheets must have curved edges that extend onto the sides from the outside.

A model ship's hull, made of tin, can be very precise in shape, and comes closer to the hulls of real ships than any other.

Model ship hull testing

When the model body is ready, it should be tested for water resistance, draft, and stability. For this purpose, a so-called experimental pool is being built. It is best to build a pool from roofing iron (Fig. 104). A box made from it measuring 3,000x700x

Rice. 104. Pool made of roofing iron for testing models.

Rice. 105. Pool made of plywood for competitions of small boat models.

X 500 mm is enclosed in a machine knitted from boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm. The legs must have a cross-section of at least 60X60 mm. The height of the pool is approximately 750 mm. Waterproofness is ensured by puttying all joints and carefully painting the pool inside and out. To drain water, a piece of water pipe with a tap is provided. A rubber hose is attached to the pipe. The pool is filled from the water supply. Do not forget to place a mesh at the outlet to prevent clogging of the drain pipe.

Figure 105 shows the appearance of the pool and its main ■dimensions. The dimensions of the pool can be changed depending on the size of the room where it will be located, as well as the available sheets of roofing iron. The idea of building a swimming pool from plywood was proposed by Kuibyshev ship modelers *. A simplified pool is a flat tray about 6 thousand mm long, 1 thousand mm wide and 350 mm high. To make a pool, you need 4 sheets of 3 mm plywood and 4 boards 25-30 mm thick, 6,500 mm long.

After assembling the pool, carefully putty all the grooves and joints. Cover the outside and inside of the pool with hot drying oil, let dry, then paint two or three times with oil paint. On the inside walls of the pool, make marks every 250 mm, departing from the front wall by 1 thousand mm.

The pool, when filled to a level of 250 mm, holds a little over a ton of water. The water is drained through a hole with a rubber tube made in the back wall of the pool. When the pool is filled with water, the hole is closed from the inside with a plug.

In such a pool, competitions of small model ships with rubber engines were held. A temporary pool can be constructed from tarpaulin. A box is made from boards according to the size of the tarpaulin or a machine. The tarpaulin is placed inside the box, the edges are attached with a strip and nails to the walls, after which water is poured. You should not keep water in such a temporary pool for a long time. The water is released using a rubber tube.

* I. Aristov, Indoor competitions in marine modeling. Magazine "Military Knowledge" No. 1, 1954, p. 20.

Master class “Do-it-yourself wooden boat”

"Boat of Childhood" Master class with step-by-step photos

Andrey Narvatov, 5th grade student of the Municipal Budgetary Educational Institution “Perkhlyayskaya Secondary School” of the Ruzaevsky District of the Republic of Mordovia
Supervisor: Zhbanov Alexander Semenovich, teacher of fine arts and technology, MBOU "Perkhlyayskaya OOSH" Ruzaevsky district of the Republic of Mordovia
Target: Making a sailboat from wood with your own hands.
Tasks: Improve the skills and abilities of working with carpentry tools, obtain information about the types and main parts of sailing ships, cultivate diligence, and the desire for independent creative work.
Purpose: The product is made as a gift to a beloved brother, sister or other loved one; it will serve as a good toy and decoration for a child’s room.
The master class is intended for students in grade 5 and older and will be useful for technology teachers and parents.
Ah, drops, drops, drops,
Golden carousel!
To us in a paper boat
April has sailed down the stream!
Sergey Kozlov

I love spring very much and always look forward to its arrival. And not at all because I don’t like winter, I just really want to see the first drops of spring, enjoy the warm sun, put on my boots and run through the spring puddles. My friends and I also love to let streams flow, with various boats made of paper, cardboard, and polystyrene along them. Unfortunately, paper boats quickly get wet and sink, while foam boats are too light and often capsize. So my friends and I thought about it and decided to make boats out of wood. Wood is a durable material, easy to process, and most importantly, it does not sink in water!
We approached the technology teacher with this proposal, and he happily helped us. Now I want others to learn how to make such toys. The work is not only not difficult, but also interesting. Before starting the practical production of the boat, we, on the instructions of the teacher, searched for information about sailboats and looked at Internet pictures. I want to boast that now I know that the basis of any sea vessel is its hull. Conventionally, the body can be divided into two parts. The front is called the bow, and the back is called the stern. The stern and bow on both sides along the center line are connected by sides. Hence the concept of left side and starboard side. The horizontal surface at the top of the ship is called the deck. On the decks of sailing ships, one or more vertical masts are installed, to which the sails are attached.
All that remains is to show the version of the sailboat I have chosen and get to work.

Basic materials and tools for work
1. Semicircular wood of any species (size optional)
In this case, the length of the wood is 15 cm, the width of the flat surface is 6 cm.
2 Semicircular and flat chisels
3. Sandpaper
4. Gouache, colorless varnish

A semicircular workpiece is obtained by splitting round wood along the center (diameter)
On the flat surface of the wood we will draw a boat shape.

Cut with a flat chisel.

For convenient and safe work, it is better to secure the workpiece in a carpenter's or metalworker's vice. When working, you must not be distracted or disturb others. It is necessary to monitor the quality of work and follow the basic rule of safe work: do not put your hands under the cutting tool!

Let's cut out all the sides.

On the board (side part) we will draw the bow and stern.

Let's draw the deck. Strips with dots are places for attaching masts.

Cut out using a vice. The depth of the recess is 5-10 mm.

Let's process it with sandpaper.

Let's paint it. Everyone chooses the color themselves. But we must take into account that contrasting colors give a brighter effect. If the product is varnished, you can use ordinary gouache.

Let's prepare two wooden rods (diameter 5-7 mm). The shape of the rods can be either cylindrical or rectangular.

Let's drill shallow holes and “plant” the masts with glue. If you don’t have a drill, you can use an awl or a sharpened nail for drilling.
The height of the masts is 10 and 6 cm from the deck surface.

We will apply decorative touches, stains and paint with varnish.

While the hull of the sailboat is “standing on the pier”, you can work on the sails. To do this, we cut out the sail from the file folder. The size of the sails depends on the size of the ship and the height of the mast. In this case, the height of the small sail is 5 cm, the large one is 9 cm. We use toothpicks, you can take a piece of empty ballpoint pen paste.

These materials are not afraid of water, are quite durable and stick well to each other with Moment glue. We cut off the excess ends.

We make two notches on the masts. The distance between them should be 7-10 mm less than the height of the sail.

The same glue is suitable for assembly. The ship is ready.

All that remains is to pass the tests. And it really doesn’t sink! The varnish protects against getting wet, floats in the slightest wind and even in artificial wind.

I would like to show the work of my classmates.
This is also a two-sail boat, only it has cardboard sails

And this one has no sails at all. His father helped his classmate cut out the bow and stern of the ship. They decided to put their ship on a pedestal.