They grow well in loose, non-acidic soil - loam or sandy loam. If the soil on the site is clayey, you will have to prepare good drainage, raise the bed, and add dried peat and sand. Acidic soils it is necessary to pre-lime it by adding dolomite flour or lime.

When planting irises, you should not apply manure or overuse organic fertilizers, as they cause rapid development of leaves to the detriment of flowering and provoke the development of fungal diseases.

Irises are quite cold-resistant plants, so they are not always covered in the fall. In this case, you should feed the irises in the snow with granulated nitrogen and potash fertilizers. This feeding will contribute to the beginning of active growth.

In general, irises need to be given up to three feedings per season. mineral fertilizers, however, they should be carried out only when necessary—it is better to underfeed the plants than to overfeed them. In early spring, Kemira-universal fertilizer can be applied for loosening.

The first feeding is carried out at the beginning of the growing season, selecting the main nutrients so that the ratio between nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium is 3: 2: 2.5. Mineral fertilizers presented in this ratio are applied at 15 g (1 tablespoon) per plant.

Before flowering, irises need to be well fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer. Therefore, the second feeding is carried out 2-3 weeks after the start of the growing season, when the peak of the first wave of growth occurs - the period of bud formation. In this feeding, the ratio between nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium should be 1:2:3. Mineral fertilizers in this ratio are also applied at 15 g (1 tablespoon) per plant.

On fertile soil With high content organic matter The amount of nitrogen applied can be halved or eliminated completely. Fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer allows you to increase the number of buds, as well as their size and the size of future flowers.

In mid-May, June and August, it is useful to sprinkle the surface of the soil under the irises with wood ash at the rate of 2-3 tbsp. spoons per plant. This fertilizing provides plants with potassium, reduces the risk of diseases and reduces soil acidity.

The third feeding is given 3 weeks after the end of flowering, when the irises enter a dormant period, which means that growth processes slow down sharply. However, 3 weeks after the end of flowering, the plants begin to grow new roots. In order for the period of growth of new parts of the rhizome, roots and the formation of flower buds to proceed normally, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers must be applied to the irises, and there should be more potassium in the total volume of fertilizers. Thus, the final ratio between phosphorus and potassium should be 2: 3. When carrying out the last fertilizing, 50-60 g of superphosphate and 20-30 g of potassium salt can also be added per 1 m2 of moist soil. After applying fertilizers, the soil is slightly loosened.

❧ By accurately planning the landscape of your site and creating certain conditions for lighting and soil composition in its various zones, you can ensure favorable conditions for growing all groups garden crops.

To prevent the development of bacteriosis, American iris experts suggest adding up to 5% powdered sulfur to the fertilizers of the last autumn feeding.

IN autumn period fertilizers containing nitrogen cannot be used, since excess nitrogen in the second half of summer leads to fattening of plants and contributes to their death in winter.

When carrying out any feeding of irises, you need to remember that exceeding the dosage is dangerous for the rhizomes. Therefore, the dose of one-time fertilizer application should not exceed 60-90 g per 1 m2, and for plants in the first year of life this dose is even less - only 40-60 g of fertilizer per 1 m2.

In addition, when adding fertilizers to the soil, you need to take into account that root system bearded irises lies shallow, almost level with the surface. Also, the central zone of the bush, free from roots, does not need to be fertilized. If there is a group (circular) planting of irises, then fertilizers must be applied along the periphery of the circle, since the roots of the plants develop in the direction of rhizome growth.

Irises can be found in almost every flower bed. Outwardly, they are flowers that do not care what soil they grow in. One gets the complete feeling that this plant can delight its owners with abundant flowering even without proper care. In fact, irises are those flowers that need a lot of fertilizer, respond well to most fertilizing and should receive timely care. Therefore, every gardener should know what to feed irises and at what period of plant growth it should be done.

When and how to feed

Everyone who has been practicing for many years knows that they must be fed early spring. Fertilizers are applied immediately after the snow melts, and the soil has not yet had time to dry out. Fertilizer in the form of a dry substance must be scattered directly under the root, slightly loosening the soil.

Irises growing in the garden must be fed after the snow melts.

In the summer, when the plant begins to bloom, a second portion of fertilizer is applied. Fertilizing is carried out using the same technology as spring fertilizing. After this, you need to thoroughly water the irises so that the nutrients are evenly distributed throughout all layers of dry soil.

During flowering, when the irises are fully in bloom, no feeding is carried out. It is needed only if the plant grows on poor soil. This can be understood by such signs as the absence lush flowering, unnatural leaf color, poorly opening buds.

The last feeding is carried out after flowering. At the end of August, irises are fed with fertilizers high in phosphorus and potassium. This is necessary so that the plant can overwinter normally.

The last fertilizing is applied to the soil around the irises after flowering has ended.

What fertilizers do irises need in spring?

To activate irises for lush flowering in the garden during the summer, you need to properly apply spring fertilizer. Fertilizers are usually used, which contain a lot of minerals, including phosphorus, nitrogen, calcium and potassium.

But if irises have been growing in your garden for more than three years, then they need a special feeding technology:

1. IN spring feeding“aged” irises should contain a lot of nitrogen. The plant needs it twice as much as phosphorus and potassium.
2. After the formation of the first buds, the potassium content in the fertilizer must be increased several times. It should be three times more phosphorus.
3. The next feeding should be carried out a month after flowering. It should contain a sufficient amount of potassium and phosphorus, taken in equal proportions.

Important. Each application of fertilizing should be carried out at the rate of 15 grams of mineral fertilizer for each bush of the plant. For irises growing in sandy soil, this amount of fertilizer should be 30 grams for each bush.

In the spring, irises that have been growing in one place for several years are fed with nitrogen fertilizers.

Is it possible to use organic matter or what should you not fertilize irises with?

Many gardeners consider manure the most the best fertilizer for all colors. But for irises organic matter is pure form can become disastrous. Therefore, it is important to understand what you should not feed this garden flower and why.

Firstly, feeding irises with manure can cause rotting of the plant roots. Secondly, the iris may begin to get very sick, dry out and shed its leaves. Thirdly, such feeding will also have a negative impact on flowering, which will be rare.

No less important is the fact that feeding irises with manure will become a provoking factor for the invasion of various pests. Therefore, using pure organic matter to feed irises means dooming your flowers to death.

In order for irises to be a real decoration of the garden, you need to know about some tricks of growing them:

1. Before flowering, the plant can be fed with leaf compost. It needs to be scattered around the roots of the iris in a minimal amount and loosen the soil a little.
2. It is best to apply fertilizers in dry form, then thoroughly water the flower bushes.
3. If there is a need to use organic fertilizers, then they need to be diluted with water in a ratio of 1 to 20.

These measures will help not only not to destroy the plant, but also to ensure their abundant flowering.

In this video, the gardener explains how and what to fertilize irises growing in the garden.

Different types of irises experience winter differently, since not all of them are equally frost-resistant. But all flowers need good care in the autumn, which guarantees a safe winter, as well as subsequent bright and luxurious flowering.

Features of autumn care for irises

Caring for irises in autumn consists of the following activities:

• pruning;
• feeding;
• preventative treatment;
• shelter for the winter.

In autumn, irises need to be well prepared for wintering.

Pruning irises before wintering

Faded flower stalks of irises are removed almost immediately after flowering ends. It is not recommended to cut the foliage until it withers on its own. In the green ground part, photosynthesis processes continue, promoting the accumulation nutrients in the rhizomes, so it cannot be removed.

Peduncles should be cut out immediately after flowering to prevent the formation of a seed pod.

Yellowed leaves are cut off in September or October, depending on the local climate. The fan of leaf plates is shortened to a height of 12–15 cm from ground level, trying to give it the shape of a house roof so that moisture flows down better and does not linger on the cuts.

The leaves of irises are cut off after they wither and turn a little yellow.

All trimmed foliage must be burned, since various harmful insects and pathogens of fungal infections settle in it for the winter.

Iris leaves are cut at an angle

Video: trimming irises correctly

Autumn feeding of irises

Like most garden crops, irises are fed with fertilizers of the phosphorus-potassium group in the autumn. It is better to do this after pruning, about 2-3 weeks before the first firm frost.

Wood ash is scattered on the bed between the plants

Irises respond well to application (per 1 m2):

• Phosphate fertilizers:
  • superphosphate - 45–60 g;
  • phosphate rock - 150–200 g (no more than once every 4–5 years).
• Potassium fertilizers:
  • potassium salt - 25–30 g;
  • wood ash - 200–250 g.
• Mineral complexes:
  • potassium monophosphate - 45–50 g;
  • phosphorus-potassium mixture - 50–55 g;
  • specialized complex fertilizers for flower crops.

Dry fertilizers are evenly distributed over the previously well-moistened soil under the iris bushes, and then the soil is slightly loosened and granules are embedded into it to a depth of 2–3 cm.

Granules of mineral fertilizers are scattered under the irises and embedded in the soil to a depth of 2–3 cm

In the fall, during the period of going to bed, irises should not be fertilized with mineral nitrogen-containing fertilizers, as well as with organic matter (manure, fresh unrotted compost, chicken droppings), so as not to provoke untimely growth of the ground part. Excess nutrition can cause rotting of the rhizome.

Photo gallery: feeding for irises in autumn

Hera Flower Universal - mixed fertilizer for basic application and fertilizing on all types of annual and perennial soils flower plants, as well as decorative flowering shrubs Potassium salt has long been used as a fertilizer; this product is a mixture of potassium chloride, sylvinite and kainite Wood ash is a good potassium and phosphorus fertilizer for acidic or neutral soils Phosphorite flour is a long-lasting fertilizer; it can be applied once every 4–5 years in increased doses without fear harmful effects on plants Potassium monophosphate is a mineral fertilizer containing nutrients necessary for full growth Fertilizer Autumn universal Terrasol - mixed mineral fertilizer with microelements for feeding in the autumn for fruits and berries, bulbs and flower and ornamental crops Fasco Autumn is used at the very end of the growing season Fertika Autumn is a complex mineral fertilizer for feeding all types of plants in late summer and autumn. Phosphorus-potassium fertilizer does not contain nitrogen Liquid complex fertilizer Bona Forte Autumn is intended for feeding ornamental shrubs and perennial plants Fertilizer Clean leaf for flower beds and rockeries - a concentrated mineral fertilizer containing all the elements necessary for plant nutrition in accessible forms

Preventive treatment of irises against diseases and pests

Fungal spores persist for a long time on withered and decaying foliage, and pests that have settled in for the winter can also be found on them. For the purpose of prevention, irises are sprayed:

• Fungicides:
  • Tsineb - 45–50 g per bucket;
  • Fundazol - 30–35 g per bucket;
  • Bordeaux mixture (1%), etc.
• Insecticides:
  • Malathion (Karbofos) - 60 g per 8 l;
  • Actellik - 2 ml per 2 l;
  • Aktara - 8–10 g per 10 l, etc.

Preventative treatments chemicals carried out after autumn pruning of irises.

For the purpose of prevention, irises are sprayed against pests and diseases.

Opponents of chemistry can pollinate plants with tobacco dust or wood ash powder. An infusion of onion peels (0.2 kg poured into 10 l) will also scare away unwanted residents hot water for 4–5 days).

Photo gallery: preparations for processing irises

Aktara is a strong systemic insecticide fast acting Actellik is used to treat gardening, agricultural and ornamental plants Bordeaux mixture is a drug that is used against pests and many fungal diseases of plants Malathion - insecticide and acaricide wide range actions Fundazol is a broad-spectrum fungicide (antifungal agent) for plant protection Zineb - fungicide protective action, prevents the development and spread of various diseases

Sheltering irises for the winter

Many varieties of this flower crop have sufficient frost resistance to successfully survive the cold in open ground without additional insulation. Therefore, in the southern regions with a mild climate they are not covered for the winter. In the northern regions, where climatic conditions much more severe, it is imperative to protect the plants.

In warm climates, irises overwinter without shelter.

Quite often, during the growing season, the roots of irises become exposed and part of the rhizome is exposed. In the fall, you need to carefully inspect all the plants and, if necessary, sprinkle the bare parts with garden soil. Young and recently transplanted specimens are subject to mandatory shelter.

Rhizomes that are above the ground must be covered with earth.

Protect beds with irises by laying a mulch layer (5–20 cm) from the following materials:

• rotted manure or compost;
• peat crumbs;
• mixtures of sand and earth (1:1);
• sawdust

It is extremely important that the mulch is dry. I try not to use fallen leaves, hay or straw, which easily rot when wet and are a source of mold and various fungal diseases. Rhizomes, coming into contact with damp covering material, can die and rot.

For the winter, irises are mulched with peat, sawdust, shavings, pieces of bark, etc.

To ensure better snow retention, beds with irises are covered with branches, spruce branches or even tops.

In the northernmost regions, irises are covered with thick mulch. non-woven material or cover with boxes (boxes).

Additionally, irises are covered with spruce branches

Video: rules for successful wintering of irises

Video: subtleties of pre-winter preparation of irises

Strong and well-prepared irises for winter will easily survive the cold season, in the spring they will begin to grow early and subsequently produce powerful flower stalks with large buds.

Iris (iris) is a perennial plant that is widespread among gardeners. This plant is attractive because after the flowering period they have an attractive appearance because of the beautiful foliage. They will decorate anyone garden plot throughout the season!

Soil for planting irises

Irises - photophilous plant and they bloom poorly in the shade, so the place for planting them should be sunny. The soil for planting flowers must be prepared. It is best to fertilize it in advance with organic and mineral fertilizers. Then the soil needs to be loosened and dug up. Immediately before planting, there is no need to add manure to the ground; it is better to do this a year before planting.

In one place without transplantation, iris can grow for as long as 10 years, with the exception of a few varieties. During this time, they grow greatly, and they require a large area, otherwise all the bushes will not have enough nutrients.

It is best to plant flowers in summer. The roots of the seedlings are in their infancy, their growth is activated 2 weeks after planting. It is recommended to plant irises so that the roots are at soil level, and the fan of foliage remains in an upright position. The hole should be dug in accordance with the length of the root system, and at the bottom of the resulting hole you need to pour a mound of soil onto which the roots are laid. The seedling needs to be pressed a little and covered with a layer of soil on top. After these manipulations, the plant is watered; this must be done again 5 days after planting. If the weather is especially hot on planting days, then young plants need to be artificially shaded, but if, on the contrary, the weather is cool, then they need additional heating.

How to properly feed irises?

After the top layer of soil has dried, you need to carry out the first fertilizing of the soil. After fertilizers (preferably mineral) have been added to it, it needs to be loosened by about 5 cm. At the same time, try not to damage the roots, because they are located almost on the very surface. If the soil was fertilized before planting, then it will not need additional fertilizing all summer. But with the plants themselves, the situation is different - if they do not have enough nutrients, this will negatively affect their development and growth. Most often this occurs during the second vegetative formation of new shoots and during the formation of flower buds. If you feed irises during this period, they will bloom profusely. The most important thing in the fertilization process is moderate application of nitrogen. It can activate fattening of plants, as a result of which the bushes and leaves of irises will become thick and powerful, but there will be no flowering.

When to replant irises?

When transplanting these flowers, it is also necessary to follow certain technologies. First you need to take a pitchfork, not a shovel, and dig up the bush itself. The root system is very fragile and breaks easily, and the roots are quite long, so you need to be extremely careful when digging them out. Then the rhizomes need to be cleared of the ground and the rotten ones removed. After this, they should be divided into parts, each of which should be approximately 10 cm in length. In the area that has been allocated for replanting, there must be 2 blades of leaves. The leaves on the separated parts of the plant should be cut to 20 cm. Then the bush should be watered.

If you have chosen the autumn period for planting irises, then you need to dig up those plants that have already formed flower buds, no more than 6 cm long and 3 cm in diameter, with a well-developed root system. If weather conditions are good, the plant will soon take root and bloom next year!

Irises after flowering: care features

Caring for irises after flowering is almost no different from caring for others perennial plants. Weeds need to be pulled out by hand, since the roots of iris are located close to the soil surface.

At the end of autumn, when the period of flowering and development has finally stopped, the plant bushes need to be covered with foliage, some varieties of this plant especially need this. It is also recommended to cover the plantings with a 10 cm thick layer of peat; this must be cleaned off in the spring. Leaves on which formed brown spots must be cut off. In exotic species of irises, half of all leaves need to be cut off.

After flowering has stopped, the peduncle should be broken off at the base.

A person who once saw blooming irises is unlikely to remain indifferent to them! And it will be especially pleasant to see this beauty in your garden or summer cottage! Although they are not as picky as some plants, they still require some care. Another advantage of irises is that they are perennials, therefore, there is no need for annual sowing of seeds. The gardener is only required to follow a few simple rules for growing these beautiful flowers!

Many gardeners love garden iris, which is easy to care for and easily tolerates wintering. Difficulties can only bring hybrid varieties. Today we will talk about the features of caring for these.

About winter hardiness of irises

The most winter-hardy varieties are those of domestic selection, as well as foreign ones that have stood the test of time. The most vulnerable are tall plants. Most species have good protection from frost with a 30-centimeter snow cover. In the Moscow region, dwarf and medium-sized irises can overwinter completely without shelter. It is not winter frosts that cause more harm, but spring frosts, since young buds may die.

Timely preparation for winter affects the quality of wintering.

Watering mode

It is recommended to keep bulbous varieties in dry conditions after flowering., watering sparingly if necessary. Since the root system of the plant is located on the surface of the soil, a large amount of moisture threatens the appearance of dark spots on the foliage and their complete decay. In addition, the death of the flower is not excluded.

Purpose and rules for autumn pruning of irises

After the bud has bloomed and dried out, it is removed. This process prevents the formation of seeds, the ripening of which takes a lot of energy from the plant. As a result, the number of flowers on one plant will increase, and repeated flowering will occur on some types of irises.

A bush without faded buds looks much more beautiful, even if flowering has already stopped. After all, wilted flowers from irises acquire brown, which spoils the appearance of the plant. Some varieties of iris can spread throughout the site by self-seeding, thereby creating additional difficulties in removing them in unnecessary places.

What to do with irises after flowering (video)

Some gardeners prefer to preserve the ovules of some varieties because of their attractive appearance. For example, stinking iris and leopard lily have beautiful seeds.

Autumn pruning requires a few simple rules:

1. Removal of flowers must be done using fingers or scissors. It is important to ensure that the scissors are clean and sharp. You need to pinch off or cut off the flower immediately behind the bud. Both dry petals and the receptacle should be removed, since it is from this part that the ovule develops.
2. There may be buds that have not yet opened on the stem being treated, so you should carefully remove dried flowers. Some varieties are known for their rapid color change. Such irises require frequent inspection and removal of no longer needed buds.
3. After the plant has finished its flowering period, it is necessary to remove the flower stem, otherwise it may rot. Many species have a fleshy stem. It should be cut at the very base, leaving 2.5 cm above ground level.
4. When cutting the stems, it is important to leave the green leaves intact, since with their help the plant transfers the energy needed for wintering to the root system. The foliage should wilt on its own. Wilted brown leaves should be cut off at 15 cm from the ground.

The cut areas must be sprinkled with crushed charcoal.

Feeding irises in autumn

In the fall, especially after transplantation, when the plant forms a root, it needs to be fertilized with potassium and phosphorus agents (no more than 40 g per sq. m). Fertilizing seedlings is also important for collateral abundant flowering for the next season. Irises do not tolerate manure, therefore it is not recommended to use this type of fertilizer.

The use of a large number of drugs leads to abundant growth of greenery, which harms the quality of wintering. After all the leaves of the plant have been cut off, it must be covered with peat or dry oak leaves. Careful care and proper feeding in moderation guarantees annual lush flowering.

Planting irises in autumn

Duration autumn planting is about one and a half months. It is important to time the planting so that the iris takes root before frost.

Benefits of autumn planting irises

The characteristics of the plant's growing season influence the choice of planting time. After winter ends, plants with healthy and developed roots begin to rapidly grow leaves. In the summer months, new links grow with young and fragile buds, which are easily damaged during planting.

Many gardeners consider the autumn months to be the most suitable time for planting. At this time, the plant has a fairly developed root, and the buds have already become lignified and strengthened. After transplantation, the iris will take root and immediately begin to grow when the spring thaw arrives.

How do irises reproduce (video)

Timing and technology for planting irises in autumn

Before planting the plant, you need to choose a suitable area, which should be open and sunny, because both the above-ground part and the starchy root need light. The bed should have a slight slope south side. So it will go away excess moisture, and also evenly illuminate the entire planting area.

Irises love slightly acidic loams. During digging, the following must be added to the soil:

• at increased acidity soil - ash or dolomite flour;
• for heavy soil - sand;
• for light sandy conditions – clay;
• Rotted humus is needed to increase fertility.

Because nitrogen fertilizers stimulate green growth, preventing the plant from preparing for winter period, it is not recommended to use them during autumn planting.

A week before the planned autumn planting, the beds should be prepared so that the soil has time to settle and compact. As a result, the seedlings will not go too deep into the ground.

1. Planting material You need to dry it first.
2. When dividing the bush independently, on each division you should leave a rhizome up to 10 cm long, at least one fan of leaves and replacement buds.
3. The leaves need to be cut off a third of their length.
4. If desired, the seedling can be neutralized by placing it in a manganese solution for a quarter of an hour.

Planting pits should not be very deep so that the root collar is above the soil level. After a couple of weeks, you can check the quality of rooting of the plant. If you pull it slightly, the root system will hold the plant in the ground, preventing it from being pulled out.

Covering irises as the main way to prepare for winter

In southern regions with a mild climate, where there are no severe frosts, irises do not require special preparation for winter. Otherwise, without appropriate shelter, the flower may die. If snow falls early and persists until spring, only young bushes can be covered, leaving winter-hardy varieties without shelter.

Very often during the summer top layer soil is washed away by rain, exposing roots. To protect them from vulnerability, in the fall it is necessary to pour a layer of earth, peat or humus on top.

Paws can serve as a material for shelter coniferous trees or other dry material found in the garden. It is better not to use straw or fallen leaves that are prone to overheating, since various diseases can develop on the plant and mold may appear.

How to prepare irises for winter (video)

You should not rush to remove the shelter with the arrival of the first thaw. If frost returns, the plant may be damaged. If you want to supply oxygen, the shelter can be carefully turned.

Irises look beautiful both alone and together with other flowers. Not all varieties bloom the first year after planting, so you should be patient and continue to care for the plants. At 3–4 years old, the iris will definitely delight you with its bright colors.