Garage made of foam blocks. We build a garage from foam blocks with our own hands. Which foam blocks are best to build a garage from?

Building a garage is a responsible undertaking. It is very important that as a result it becomes reliable protection for your car. Can be used for such work different materials, for example, brick, wood, aerated concrete and foam concrete. Next, we will consider the technology of constructing a garage from foam blocks. About distinctive features You will learn this material from this article.

First of all, you need to pick up a piece of paper and a pencil to plan your future construction. Having a project will allow you to make a rough analysis of the consumption of building materials and, accordingly, financial resources. Moreover, it is necessary to analyze the soil, namely at what depth the groundwater is located. Also determine the peculiarities of the soil structure. Based on the information received, it will be possible to decide what type of foundation will be erected.

A garage project made of foam blocks can be completed using special computer programs. However, you can do it yourself. So, you can take into account the features of your area in the project and make a layout at your discretion.

Among other things, it is worth deciding whether the garage will perform other functions besides storing the car. For example, think about this:

will there be a viewing hole?
is a basement necessary for storing canned goods and other products in the winter;
will tool racks be installed;
do you need additional work area, for example, a table, workbench, etc.

Based on this, you should complete a project that will correspond to the purpose of the garage. Accordingly, determine the type of foundation, its length and width, as well as the height of the walls and ceiling. If we take for example standard dimensions such a structure, then they are within the following limits:

Width 3–3.5 m.
Height 3 m.
Length 4.5–6 m.

At the end of this article, a number of projects and drawings for building a garage are provided. If you are satisfied with a particular project, then you can use it. But at the same time, be sure to take into account the features of your area: the level of groundwater and the structure of the soil.

Typically, blocks of size 600×300×200 mm are used for construction. The thickness of the walls can be made either 200 mm or 300 mm simply by turning the block over. As for an unheated garage, a wall thickness of 200 mm is sufficient. To determine the thickness of the walls of a heated building, you need to take into account local climatic conditions. If the project is already ready, then it is quite possible to calculate the required number of blocks. To do this, follow these steps:

For example, let's take the dimensions of a garage of 5x6x3 m. Now we calculate the length of the perimeter of the walls and, accordingly, the number of blocks in one row: (5+6)x2 and divide the length of the block by 0.6 m. As a result, we get the following action: (5 + 6) × 2 ÷ 0.6 = 36.6 (37 pieces).

Next we determine the number of rows. In our case, the height of the garage will be 3 m. This means that it should be divided by the height of the block 0.3 m. It turns out like this: 3 ÷ 0.3 = 10 rows.

Based on this, you can easily determine how many blocks will be needed for the entire construction: 37 pcs. × 10 row. = 370 pcs.

But it is also important to take into account the size of the gate, door and window, if any. If the walls are laid with a thickness of 200 mm, then on average 1 m2 of gates and windows includes 6 foam blocks. Based on the size of your gates and windows, determine the total area of the openings and multiply the resulting amount by 6. With standard sizes, on average you get from 40 to 50 blocks. As a result, you need to purchase 300 - 320 foam blocks.

Using this scheme, you can calculate the number of blocks for a garage of any size.

Be sure to take into account the following nuances: during transportation, there may be damage to the material, and in such calculations we did not take into account the thickness of the seam. For this reason, add 5% to the resulting amount. Otherwise, you may not have enough blocks to finish laying the walls.

Upon completion of the preparatory work, as well as after purchasing everything required material, you can start marking the garage. Drive pegs into the corners of the future building. Stretch a string around the entire perimeter between them. Be sure to check the angle between the threads. It should be 90°. Or you can carry out axial marking - this is much simpler and more accurate. If the length of the thread is the same, then it will definitely be 90º. When marking, strictly adhere to the dimensions specified in the project.

When the markings are completed, stand near the future garage door and make sure that nothing will prevent them from opening. It could be a tree, a building, a fence, or anything else. If there are no serious obstacles, you can begin making the foundation.

Foam block comparatively lightweight material, so there is no need to build a deep and heavy foundation. But not only the weight of the material influences the choice of one type of foundation or another. A more important criterion is the type and properties of the soil at the construction site. For example, if the groundwater level in your area is below 2–2.5 m, and the soil is non-heaving, homogeneous and dense, then you can build a lightweight strip foundation, up to 0.5 m deep. A completely different situation arises when heaving soil, because you will have to build a monolithic foundation. This is explained by the peculiarity of the blocks, which do not tolerate bending loads well. As a result, the foam block bursts, and the building itself is destroyed. To avoid this, the walls are laid out on monolithic slab, which “floats” in the ground along with the entire building.

If the project involves construction inspection hole, then the option of a foundation with a monolithic slab is eliminated. In this case, it will be necessary to construct a buried strip or combined strip-pile foundation.

For example, consider the construction of a strip foundation with a depth of 0.8 m. The work is carried out in the following order:

A trench is dug 0.8 m deep. The width is equal to the foam block (200 mm) and add 150 mm, resulting in a foundation thickness of 350 mm.
The bottom of the trench should be thoroughly compacted.
After this, a sand cushion is poured, consisting of 100–150 mm of sand and 70–100 mm of crushed stone. Each layer is also compacted.
Install formwork for the foundation.
A reinforcement frame welded or connected with knitting wire must be placed in the trench. As a result, you will make a frame for the strip foundation.
Next, you need to fill the foundation with concrete, one at a time and thoroughly vibrate it.

While the concrete is drying, you can begin making an inspection hole, if this is provided for in the project.

Let us remind you that when constructing an inspection hole, it is necessary to take into account the depth of groundwater. If the depth is more than 2.5 m, then there is no need to make drainage. If less, then drainage is accordingly necessary. We invite you to familiarize yourself with the process of making an inspection hole in which you need to make drainage. You should also make calculations based on its size. The length is chosen taking into account the size of the car, usually 2 m is enough. As for the depth, it should be such that it is convenient to move in it. So, you take into account the height of the car owner, adding 30 cm to it and the vehicle’s ground clearance, which is from 120 to 175 mm. As a result, the approximate depth will reach up to 1800 mm. (30 cm is a lot - you can’t reach the car. The ground clearance of cars is different and this must be taken into account in advance, taking into account the performance of the existing car.

The work on making an inspection pit looks like this:

First executed earthworks. In this case, take into account the thickness of the finishing floor screed, cushion, waterproofing layer and drainage.
The bottom of the pit should be covered with gravel, a layer of 100 mm, and then sand with a layer of 50 mm. All this is rammed one by one.
Trenches are dug along the perimeter of the pit to organize drainage, up to 500 mm deep.
The bottom of the trench is covered with geotextile. It must be wrapped 80 cm onto the trench wall.
Next, a 50 mm layer of gravel is poured, and a drainage pipe. You can use perforated pipes made of plastic, asbestos cement or ceramics. When laying pipes, make a slight slope for their functionality. For 1 m, a 1 cm slope will be sufficient.
After this, fill the pipe with a 20 cm layer of gravel and wrap the geotextile. So, the drainage is ready.
The future floor of the pit is covered with a small layer of clay, which must be compacted.
The next layer is spread roll waterproofing, for example, roofing felt or polyethylene film.
Afterwards, the formwork for the floor is made, a reinforcing frame of rebar is laid and poured with concrete. It is recommended to add “Dehydrol” or “Betonoprav” to the concrete mixture to produce waterproof concrete.
When the floor screed has dried, waterproofing is carried out again.
If the groundwater is located high to the ground level, then the walls of the inspection pit are also covered/rammed with clay.
To build walls, you can use bricks or make monolithic concrete, having previously made waterproofing and constructed formwork with reinforcement. The last option is most relevant when high level groundwater.
A waterproofing layer is laid on the walls, which is connected to the waterproofing of the floor. Carefully process all joints, cracks and edges. After this, concrete is poured.
When the walls are dry, you can make finishing walls and floor of the inspection pit.
The walls can be plastered and lined with tiles or fiberglass boards.
A safety rail must be installed on top of the pit. It is needed to prevent cars from accidentally falling into a hole. For its manufacture, a 60 mm metal corner is used. The frame is welded according to the size of the pit. Having laid it on the pit, the frame is concreted. Upon completion of construction, it will be possible to lay boards (40 mm thick) on the corner to cover the pit.

This stage of work can be performed both immediately after pouring the foundation for the garage walls, and after they are erected.

Before starting to build walls, it is important to install gates. They will be partially embedded in the wall. Before installing them on the foundation, it is necessary to lay a layer of roofing felt waterproofing in 2-3 layers. Weld pieces of reinforcement 40 cm Ø12 mm to the gate frame. On each side you need to weld 4 pieces. The rods must be positioned so that they fall on the seam of the foam blocks. And before installing the gate frame, they should be painted with a preliminary primer. Gate installation must be carried out strictly level. Therefore, in this process it is necessary to use a level and plumb line. You can fix the gate using wooden blocks, installing them diagonally.

Beam over the gate opening

So that the gates have solid foundation, a beam is made above them. For this you can make metal frame and fill it with concrete. But keep in mind that the length of the beam must be at least 0.2 m greater than the length of the opening on each side. As an option, you can install a finished beam similar to an I-beam. In this case, weld a frame from a 50x50 mm metal corner to the size of the gate. It should be installed so that from the inside of the garage it is flush against the wall. The corner is fixed with cement. Next, install the I-beam on top of the frame and gate.

If you plan to build a second floor, then an armored belt is constructed around the entire perimeter to hold the floor slab. For a garage made of foam blocks, it is necessary, as it will hold the entire structure together and will reliable support roofs.

It is better to start building walls from a corner. Installation of blocks is carried out long side along the wall. Foam blocks are laid with special glue or cement-sand mortar. If we talk about glue, it provides much better thermal insulation. Therefore, its use is more effective. Moreover, the glue consumption is relatively small.

So, having set the corners, pull the rope between them. The walls will be laid along it. Every two rows the masonry should be reinforced. To do this, a special mesh or masonry reinforcement is laid in the seam. The rods that you previously welded to the gate are embedded in the masonry between the blocks. When you reach the floor beam, you carry out the laying without moving the block. If necessary, trim the block so that the ligament of seams is not broken.

If according to the project a pitched roof is to be made, then the walls are laid immediately at an angle to back wall garage. For 1 linear meter, a 5 cm slope is sufficient.

To make a slope, foam blocks are simply cut with a special hacksaw. The situation is completely different if the roof is gable. Then it is important to think about how the roof gables will be closed. As an option, you can continue the masonry from or use another lightweight material, for example, lining.

Reinforced belt for foam concrete

Build formwork 0.3 m high along the perimeter of the walls. A reinforcing metal frame made of reinforcement is placed in it. All this is concreted. If it will be used to cover the roof beam floor, then the need for the construction of such a powerful armored belt disappears and, as a result, there is also no need to install formwork. It will be enough to lay a layer of thick cement on the wall on top of the reinforcing bar and then re-layer the cement. If necessary, use a trowel to remove the remaining mortar. It is important to control the thickness of the solution here. It should not be in such a state that it flows down the walls or should not be too thick, which will crumble in an instant.

The most common option for arranging a roof is to install a concrete slab, which must be covered with several layers of roofing material. But when constructing walls from foam blocks, this technique is not suitable, since this material itself is relatively fragile and can be pressed under the weight of the slab. Let's look at an example of manufacturing a pitched roof using an I-beam:

Install beams across the roof in 800 mm increments. The length of the beam should be 200–250 mm longer than the wall, i.e. This is exactly how the roof will hang on both sides. This will protect the building from precipitation. The beams are embedded in the wall.
Lay out 40 mm boards on the bottom shelf as tightly as possible.
Spread roofing material on top of them. Bend the roofing material at the edges by 10 cm.
After this, cover the roofing material with slag, expanded clay or other bulk dry thermal insulation material.
On top of the insulation, make a thin cement-sand screed up to 3 cm.
When the screed has dried, treat it with liquid bitumen mastic, for example, "Primer".
After this, using the fusing method, spread the roofing material across the garage in the direction from the bottom point of the roof upwards. Each sheet is laid with an overlap, which will ensure rain and melt water drains without seeping into the roofing “pie”.

Finally, all that remains is to make a canopy over the gate. You can make it yourself by welding it from a corner and covering it with polycarbonate or other roofing material or buy ready-made.

Floor arrangement

When the walls have already been erected, the roof has been installed and an inspection hole has been made, you can begin making the garage floor. A durable floor should be installed here, since the car will put a large load on the screed. That's why ideal solution There will be production of a concrete base. Wooden flooring can be installed directly in the pedestrian area, this is especially effective if you plan to have a work area and install tables. On wooden floor It will be more comfortable to be on than on concrete.

So, the soil is leveled and compacted. Each subsequent layer is also compacted, consisting of:

crushed stone 100–150 mm;
sand 50–100 mm;
gravel 50–100 mm.

Finally, a concrete screed is poured in a layer of at least 200 mm. After this, all you have to do is finish the walls, carry out the necessary communications and bring your car into its new, reliable and dry “home”.

It is worth noting that purchasing foam blocks from total cost of the entire project is about 30%. Most of the money goes to the construction of the foundation and roof. However, even despite this, a garage made of foam blocks is considered one of the cheapest. If you already have experience working with this building material, then write comments at the end of this article. Your experience can help newbie masters.

Video

Want more information about building a garage with foam blocks? Watch the video:

Drawings

Brittle materials, which are also afraid of moisture, have never inspired confidence in me. But when it comes to savings and practicality, it can be cost-effective to resort to unconventional solutions. That is why we preferred a garage made of foam blocks to a regular one, brick version, which has always been built. There are many advantages and disadvantages of such a structure, now we will look at them all, and also show step-by-step instructions for construction.

It was decided to build reinforced garage from foam blocks, with concrete belt above. This is a predictable and reasonable move, because what would a garage be without a manual talc or winch. The armored belt eliminates the difference between a structure made of foam blocks and bricks. More precisely, it allows you to build a garage that can easily withstand lifting mechanisms. And no one has canceled the second floor in the future - we will be ready for it too! Let's look at step-by-step instructions for DIY construction.

We make a foundation for a garage from foam blocks with our own hands

Despite the fact that the walls will be lighter than usual ones made of cinder block or shell rock, it is advisable to make the foundation solid. You should immediately count on a building of 2 floors (maybe you’ll want a workshop on top later) and a lift. The foundation for a garage made of foam blocks can be strip concrete or simply made of FBS blocks. If it's separate standing garage on a flat surface, then it will fit under a fence or a house.

We used FBS blocks for the base, since the extension approached the house and the height difference was large. In addition, there were a lot of extra blocks lying around at the construction site that had nowhere to be used, and concrete these days is not cheap at all. Therefore... For the sake of savings... In general, the foundation for the garage was made very quickly and quite reliably. Let's look at how to implement this step by step:

STEP 1: trench. Dig to install the first block, add crushed stone and sand on top, level it and place the first row of FBS blocks.

STEP 2: level, place the remaining blocks. There is nothing tricky, everything is the same as in ordinary bricklaying: straightened, placed. It is advisable to set everything one by one if the blocks rise above the actual ground level. Then there is less need to level with plaster in the future when building a garage.

STEP 3: fill the “holes” with solution. When building a garage foundation this way, there are bound to be hollow spaces. If the blocks are used, there will be even more work. We fill all the holes with mortar; if they are very large, we throw in a stone of a suitable size and cover it around.

STEP 4: trim. We draw out the corners, if there are none, we perform a rough fit. We admire the result and take photographs just in case (what if someday you want to write an article!).

Now you can start building a garage with or without drawings. You can simply calculate the length and width. Our version was 11 meters long and 5 wide. Designed to fit 2 cars freely. For one car, 6 meters of length will be enough (so that you can comfortably walk more). Now let's choose the right material and let's move on to laying foam block walls step by step and with visual photos that were taken in the process.

Selection and calculation of foam blocks for the garage

First you need to decide which foam block to choose. Here we need to take the golden mean. The principle of choice is this: the lighter and more fragile the material, the less thermal conductivity it has and the warmer the room will be. But the bearing strength of the walls will be much worse in this case. We recommend choosing a foam block for a garage of medium strength, in the range of brands D600 - D900. It has average frost resistance (F50-F75) and thermal conductivity 0.18-0.21. In addition, the load-bearing force will be quite acceptable for a full-fledged working garage. The main thing is to do everything right.

Now we calculate how many foam blocks we need for the garage. Standard block size: 600x300x200 mm, where 600 is length, 300 is height, 200 is width. They can be laid either sideways or dancing. We built the garage so that the wall was 20 centimeters wide. The block itself has a uniform density and is not layered. This means that on all sides it has the same strength against vertical load.

Let us now calculate how many foam blocks are needed for a garage 11 meters long and 4.2 meters high:

11000:600 = 18 blocks long.
4200:600 = 7 blocks high.
18x7 = 126 blocks for 1 side wall and 252 blocks for 2 walls.
Additionally, you need to calculate the rear (if it is not adjacent to the house) and the end, with the exception of the gate area.

It seems that we have decided which foam blocks should be taken for the garage and how to calculate their quantity for construction. Now let's look at the process of laying the material. We will use glue, since it is more convenient to work with, the consumption is much less, and the strength is higher. In addition, it is by definition recommended when working with such materials.

Laying out garage walls from foam blocks: step-by-step instructions

Many builders claim that foam block masonry is much more complicated than brick and requires a special approach. This cannot be confirmed, since a garage made of foam blocks with your own hands can be built without any problems in 1 day and everything can be leveled perfectly, while a garage made of bricks needs to be spent about a week on the same work. In addition, the foam block is lightweight and can be conveniently adjusted to size. But still there are some nuances and differences. Let's take a closer look at the process.

STEP 1: straighten if uneven. If the last row of blocks is not level or there are minor defects in the material, everything must be done as evenly as possible. If this is not important for cement, then for masonry with glue it is very important, because it is expensive.

STAGE 2: lay the first row, draw the corner. Construction of a garage from foam blocks will be much easier if the first row is perfectly aligned. Lay out the blocks, then level everything along the thread, check with a level, add or knock down the mortar where necessary. We level it down to the millimeter, not like with shell rock or brick. The blocks are large and any small jamb will create problems later. We set the corners in 3-4 blocks at a time to make it easier to continue rowing.

STAGE 3: lay out the rows. Everything is simple here. If the first row is even, simply spread it with glue, straighten it with a special spatula, and place the block. The process of laying one wall will take a couple of hours, no more. The main thing is not to make “skips”, distribute the glue evenly, and overlap.

STEP 4: Aligning the top row. There are various projects for garages made of foam blocks, but it’s better to do standard sizes. I still advise you to make the height of the garage such that the top ends with a whole block. Or you will have to cut the entire row. However, cutting foam blocks is simple and quick. In our case, the evenness of the top row was not so important, since we were making an armored belt.

Important: the armored belt is not mandatory, but extremely important for the garage. The fact is that heavy elements and supports cannot simply be placed on the foam block. Under heavy weight at one point, it will crack or the edge will break off. Subject to availability reinforced belt the load is distributed over the entire perimeter of the foam concrete garage. This allows it to perform the standard functions of a conventional brick building.

STEP 5: installation of embedded reinforcement under the belt. Every 50-80 centimeters we drill foam concrete to a depth of 40-60 centimeters and insert reinforcement. We bring it above the wall level by 25 centimeters (the height of the future belt). Next, we stretch the longitudinal reinforcement from M14 rods and tie the reinforcement together with ordinary wire.

STAGE 6: armored belt for foam concrete. And now, in order to properly build a garage from foam blocks with our own hands, we need to do concrete piping above. Let's do wooden formwork as on basement foundation, we fasten it with through pins through the foam concrete. We tie it at the top with steel wire to prevent the top from coming apart. It will be more convenient to use scaffolding or a stepladder.

It is also important to make metal embedded plates in the future armored belt from the gates and support pillars. This is necessary for maximum solidity of all adjacent structures. It could be M16 reinforcement or just a steel strip - it doesn’t matter, as long as it extends 30-40 centimeters into the belt.

Now the question of how to build a garage from foam blocks has been answered. All that remains is to install and make the roof. But this is a separate and rather complex process, which we will consider in another article. We also suggest you look good video laying foam concrete for greater clarity of this process:

Construction of a garage

Brick garage - from 16,000 rub/m2
Foam-gas-concrete garage - from 11,000 rub/m2
Frame garage- from 8000 rub/m2
Garage made of profiled timber - from 12,000 rub/m2
Garage made of laminated veneer lumber - from 16,000 rub/m2
Garage made of rounded logs - from 13,000 rub/m2
Garage made of reinforced concrete slabs - from 24,000 rub/m2
Metal garage (LSTC/corrugated sheeting) - from 5,500 rub/m2

Construction of a canopy

Carport made of polycarbonate on iron poles - from RUB 3,300/m2
Cantilever carport - from 4700 RUR/m2
Forged carport - from 5100 RUR/m2
Carport made of corrugated sheets - from 4000 rub/m2
Carport made of metal tiles - from 4100 rub/m2
Carport made of wood - Individually

Roofing works

Rafter system	from 300.00 rub.	m2
Lathing	from 150.00 rub.	m2
Sewing the gables edged board	from 150.00 rub.	m2
Covering gables with siding, block house, clapboard, etc.	from 300.00 rub.	m2
Laying under-roof hydro-wind insulation	from 100.00 rub.	m2
Laying roofing felt	from 100.00 rub.	m2
Laying Ondulin	from 250.00 rub.	m2
Laying metal tiles	from 300.00 rub.	m2
Laying flexible tiles	from 400.00 rub.	m2
Laying OSB - plywood	from 200.00 rub.	m2
Insulation of roof slopes	from 150.00 rub.	m2
Installation of a drainage system	from 250.00 rub.	p.m.

Prices for garage foundations

Strip foundation (height 60cm - thickness 30cm) - from 3000 rub/m.p.
Strip foundation (height 80cm - thickness 40cm) - from 4350 rub/m.p.
Monolithic slab (height 20cm) - from 3500 rub/m2
Monolithic slab (height 30cm) - from 4360 rub/m2

Cost of one screw pile with screwing and concreting

pile thickness 89 mm. + height 1.5m - 3,000 rub.
pile thickness 89 mm. + height 2.5m - 3,200 rub.
pile thickness 89 mm. + height 3m - 3,300 rub.
pile thickness 108 mm. + height 1.5m - 3,100 rub.
pile thickness 108 mm. + height 2.5m - 3,400 rub.
pile thickness 108 mm. + height 3m - 3,500 rub.

Electrical installation work

Assembly, installation and assembly of electrical panels	Unit change	Price
Installation of an external electrical panel	pcs.	from 800 rub.
Installation of a hidden electrical panel	pcs.	from 1500 rub.
Installation of an electrical panel without a meter electrical energy	pcs.	from 2000 rub.
Installation of an electrical panel with an electric energy meter	pcs.	from 2500 rub.

Installation and disconnection of junction boxes 3	Unit change	Price
Up to 4 cables for open wiring soft material(tree)	pcs.	350 rub.
Up to 4 cables for open electrical wiring on solid material (brick/foam concrete/concrete)	pcs.	400/450/500 rub.
Up to 4 cables for electrical wiring under plasterboard	pcs.	350 rub.
Up to 4 cables for hidden electrical wiring in foam concrete/brick/concrete	pcs.	500/550/600 rub.
From 5 cables for open electrical wiring on soft material (wood)	pcs.	450 rub.
From 5 cables for open electrical wiring on solid material (brick/foam concrete/concrete)	pcs.	500/550/600 rub.
From 5 cables for electrical wiring under plasterboard	pcs.	450 rub.
From 5 cables for hidden electrical wiring in foam concrete/brick/concrete	pcs.	600/650/700 rub.

Installation (laying) of power cable up to 4 mm2:2	Unit change	Price
Opened directly to the wall using brackets	m/n.	50 rub.
Open in corrugated pipe on soft material (wood)	m/n.	100 rub.
Opened in a corrugated pipe over solid material (brick/foam concrete/concrete)	m/n.	150/150/150 rub.
Opened into a cable channel on soft material (wood)	m/n.	100 rub.
Opened into a cable channel on solid material (brick/foam concrete/concrete)	m/n.	200/200/200 rub.
Hidden in foam concrete	m/n.	300 rub.
Hidden in brick	m/n.	350 rub.
Hidden in concrete	m/n.	400 rub.

Installation of a new electrical point (socket/switch)1	Unit change	Price
Open electrical wiring on soft material (wood)	pcs.	200 rub.
Open electrical wiring on solid material (brick/foam concrete/concrete)	pcs.	250/250/250 rub.
Electrical wiring for plasterboard	pcs.	250 rub.
Hidden electrical wiring in foam concrete	pcs.	300 rub.
Hidden electrical wiring in brick	pcs.	350 rub.
Hidden electrical wiring in concrete	pcs.	400 rub.

Finishing work

Installation of an electrical kit inside the garage - from RUB 10,000.
Manufacturing of garage concrete floors- from 25,000 rub.
Replacement. Manufacturing wooden floors- from 20,000 rub.
Interior decoration garage dry eurolining - 800 rub. per m2
Manufacturing of metal gates with a wicket and painting - from RUB 30,000.
Set overhead sectional doors+ installation - from 45,000 rub.
Cosmetic repairs inside the garage - from 1500 rubles. per m2

Foam concrete is a material often used in the construction industry due to its positive properties. When choosing the “golden mean” between the quality and cost of materials, preference is given to foam blocks.

Why foam block?

Foam concrete is characterized by a large number of advantages, but it is impossible to do without disadvantages. The material is attracted by its amazing technical and operational capabilities, as well as its relatively low cost. In addition, there are a lot of projects for building a garage from foam blocks with your own hands.

Advantages

Increased strength. The strength indicator is measured by the level of compression, which for a given material varies between 3.5 and 5 MPa. Thus, foam concrete can be used in the construction of buildings three floors high.
Thermal insulation. In terms of thermal conductivity, the foam block can be compared to wood. At the same time, he demonstrates much best performance than clay brick. In other words, a thin wall made of foam concrete conducts the same small amount of heat as a thicker brick wall.
Soundproofing. Foam blocks consist of many pores that are filled with air. Thanks to this, the soundproofing properties of the material are significantly increased.
Foam concrete blocks have different densities(depending on the manufacturer). On average, this figure ranges from 400-1600 kg/m2 - slightly more than the density of wood. The low rate makes it possible to reduce the cost of storing the material, and also significantly simplifies working with it.
Moisture resistance. The minimum number of open pores in the structure of the material ensures its moisture resistance. For example, high-quality foam blocks made to standard specifications can float for at least a week.
Freeze resistance. Low temperatures foam concrete is not dangerous, thanks to the small pores in its structure through which water moves when it freezes. The properties of the building material are fully preserved even in extreme cold.
Fire resistance. One of the key positive features of the block is its resistance to combustion. The material can prevent fire for 8 hours, while the released substances do not belong to the toxic category.
Homogeneous structure. Compared to others building materials, like ceramic bricks, reinforced concrete, etc., the structure of foam concrete is uniform and consists of small pores throughout the entire thickness. Thus, the material can be processed in any way in a convenient way- using a saw, drill, etc., without fear for its condition.

Some features of the material can be both positive and negative at the same time. The disadvantages of foam blocks are significantly inferior to the advantages, but we should not forget about them.

Flaws

Airtightness. Speaking about the resistance of foam concrete blocks to moisture, we must not forget that their dense, homogeneous structure and solidity will prevent the penetration of air. This property prevents foam blocks from “breathing”.
Slow Durability. Compared to other building materials, foam concrete gains strength at a slower pace, although its hardening does not stop after 5, 10 years, etc. Manufacturers are not interested in maintaining the foam block to the required level of strength, since this requires additional funds.
Low quality. The demand for the material has given rise to many small manufacturers who strive to sell as many products as possible and are not too concerned about its quality.
Shrinkage. The material is characterized by a shrinkage process, which occurs intensively during the first month after installation.

Garage design and calculation of materials

Design is the first stage of construction of any building. First you need to determine soil structure and its features, find out the depth at which groundwater flows during each season. These indicators determine the overall design of the garage, as well as the appropriate type of foundation.

There are many special programs for design, which are quite easy to master. They allow you to make the most accurate calculation of the materials required for the construction of a garage. To do this, you just need to set the desired wall thickness and the parameters of one block.

All the beauty self-development The project lies in the fact that any ideas can be brought to life.

Before creating a project, you need to determine all the functions of the future garage. In addition to its main purpose, it can serve as a food storage, basement, etc. Inspection pits and work areas are also located in garages. These points influence the size of the building, the height of the walls, and the foundation. The Internet is full of designed garage projects, but you can use them if they match specific features soil and groundwater.

Construction stages

Construction of a garage made of foam blocks includes several stages:

Marking the territory.
Foundation installation.
Construction of walls and installation of gates.
Roof installation.
Floor installation.

Territory marking

Marking the territory takes a small amount of time. In the corners of the required territory, stakes are driven in, the thickness of which is at least 5 cm. Next, a cord is pulled between the stakes, and the threads should form a right angle - 90°. Site marking is a display of a previously created project on the ground.

Upon completion of the marking, it is necessary to determine the location of the gate and make sure that surrounding objects do not interfere with its opening.

Foundation installation

It has been repeatedly mentioned before that the soil has a key influence on the type of foundation. Foam concrete walls are relatively light, so they do not need a bulky, heavy foundation. If in the territory of the future garage the soil has a uniform and dense structure, and groundwater flows at a depth of more than 2 meters, then you can limit yourself to a simple strip foundation (reinforced concrete contour), the depth of which is no more than half a meter.

If the soil is not so ideal and there is a risk of periodic shifts, then it is best to use concrete slab. When the soil moves, walls made of foam blocks will not be subject to load.
A monolithic foundation is suitable only if the garage design does not provide for a basement or inspection hole. In this case, you can mount strip foundation, located much deeper, or resort to using pile-strip foundation. Its peculiarity is that the main emphasis of the walls is on a solid strip foundation, and with the help of buried piles the structure adheres to dense layers of soil.

Construction of walls and installation of gates

The gates must be installed before the foam concrete walls are erected, since in the future they will need to be partially embedded in the walls. Reinforcing bars are first welded to the gate (length - 40 cm), at least four pieces on each side. It is desirable that the rods coincide with the joints of the blocks. The gates are also treated with primer and paint. During the installation process, you need to carefully monitor the level position of the gate using a level, plumb line, and braces.

Video about the technology of building a garage from foam blocks:

The process of building walls should begin from the corners of the garage. The optimal wall width is approx. 20 cm, for this you need to select the appropriate blocks. Each block will be positioned lengthwise, since this construction technique uses less material. To save yourself from carefully measuring corners during the laying process, you can acquire special corner foam blocks. A standard solution consisting of cement and sand or adhesive for foam concrete. The glue has additional benefits, since it is consumed economically and has excellent thermal insulation properties.

After installing the corner blocks, you can begin building the walls, having first stretched the cord between the corners. To strengthen the walls, a special mesh of reinforcement is used, which is installed every two rows of building materials.

The most labor-intensive stage in the process of building walls is laying foam blocks in the area that is located above the garage door. At this stage it is necessary to install the jumper. It is necessary to make a frame corresponding to the dimensions garage doors. The frame is installed from the inside of the garage using cement mortar and leans directly against the foam concrete wall. Next, the beam in the form of an I-beam is mounted on the top of the frame and gate. It is installed so that the edges go deeper into the walls by at least 20 cm.

Roof installation

A single-pitch or gable roof is ideal for a foam concrete structure. A pitched roof is the simplest and most cheap option. To install it, beams resting on foam concrete walls are used. The bevel angle varies within 25-60°. In order to protect the walls from rain and snow, you need to use beams that protrude beyond the structure by approximately 40 cm. In this case, you need to maintain a distance between the beams - about 80 cm. Empty areas between beams should be filled with bricks. Boards are laid quite tightly on top of the beams, and then roofing felt, insulating material and roofing are spread.

Floor installation

The garage floor must be especially stable, since under the enormous pressure of the car, collapses, shrinkage and other defects are possible. The best option is concrete, which is top layer. Under it, layers of gravel, sand and crushed stone are carefully compacted in order of priority, the thickness of the concrete is 20 cm or more.

Room ventilation

Ventilation must be present in the garage. Usually they resort to three methods: mechanical, natural and combined.

Mechanical ventilation is carried out using exhaust system, operating on the basis of a fan, as well as forced ventilation.
Natural ventilation of the room is ensured by installing grilles on the side of the gate, through which air from the street passes. This is the cheapest method, but in terms of efficiency, preference is given to mechanical ventilation.
Combined ventilation - using the first and second methods simultaneously.

Insulation of the garage

Insulating a garage means an insulating structure that is installed on the walls, roof and gates. Preference should be given to inexpensive insulation materials for walls such as polystyrene foam, etc. For insulation, a wall is mounted on which the material is attached.

To insulate the roof, a wooden frame is nailed to the rafters, designed to hold insulation material. Gates are most often hung warm cloth.

When choosing a material for building a garage, many car owners prefer foam concrete - an inexpensive, light and durable material. The lightness of the blocks allows you to save on arranging the foundation; no special skills are required for installation. Although the material is not able to “breathe”, the positive aspects still prevail. The stages of construction of a foam concrete garage structure will be discussed in this article.

Design stage, material calculation

Before starting the construction process, it is necessary to design the future building. Information about the presence of groundwater (their level in different season) and soil characteristics. These parameters influence not only the choice of foundation type, but also the features of the garage project.

To create a project you can use ArchiCad program or a similar “assistant” that allows you to calculate required quantity blocks by entering data - dimensions and wall thickness. A self-created project plan takes into account any plan and calculates all the details. It is acceptable to take ready-made Internet solutions as a basis if they meet the individual conditions of the future building.

Construction of a garage from foam blocks - step by step instructions with photo

In addition to storing the car, the garage can be used for other functions.

It is important to think through and take into account these features in advance - at the design stage:

Is there a need for an inspection hole?
Do you need a basement in which food or canned goods will be stored?
Where to place shelves for tools.
Will an additional area be required for any work?

All of the above is reflected in the type of foundation, width, length and height of the walls. If we talk about average sizes, then the garage parameters correspond to a three-meter length, a six-meter height and a three-meter height (3/6/3 m).

1. Marking the area for a garage building

The outline of the garage is drawn at the selected location; in fact, the plan is transferred to the area:

At the future corners of the building, pegs with a diameter of 0.5 cm are installed.
They are connected with a nylon cord. It should be taut.
The interthread angle is checked. Its value should not deviate from 90º. At this stage, any discrepancy with the required parameter can be easily corrected.
Next, you should imagine the opening of future gates. More precisely, to understand whether there are any obstacles in the form of a tree, building, fence, etc. to their functioning.

2. Arrangement of the foundation for a foam block garage

The lightness of foam blocks does not imply a heavy foundation. However, not everything is determined by the load of the walls; soil properties are also important.

The optimal conditions for construction are:

The occurrence of ground-type water is at a depth of two meters and below.
Uniformity, density and heaving of the soil.

The specified criteria are acceptable for mild tape base under a garage structure. The depth of such a foundation is up to 0.5 m.

How to make a foundation in a strip version:

A trench is being dug. Its width corresponds to a similar block parameter, but with a margin of 0.1-0.15 m. The depth of the tape is 0.7-0.8 m.
The bottom of the trench is compacted and covered with a ten-centimeter layer of sand, followed by compaction.
The formwork is being installed.
Reinforcement in the form of a welded reinforcement frame is placed in the trench.
Prepared and poured concrete mortar. It is important to complete the filling in one go. This is an indispensable condition for arranging a high-quality foundation.
It remains to wait for the foundation to dry before continuing work.

Soil heaving - a reason to seriously think about a monolithic concrete slab, since any ground movement will have a detrimental effect on the foam blocks. They will simply crack and collapse. But cracks can be avoided if the garage walls are placed on a “floating” slab.

Monolithic slabs are not used for arranging the basement and inspection pit. Here the best option there will be a recessed version of the strip base or a pile-strip combination.

3. Installation of garage doors

The gates are installed before the construction of walls begins. The reason for this sequence is very compelling: the gate structure will have to be partially walled into the wall.

List of actions:

Attention . During the installation process, it is important to maintain a strictly vertical position of the gate structure. This parameter is controlled using a level and plumb line.

4. Construction of garage foam block walls

Some general tips:

For a garage building, the optimal wall thickness is 20 cm. For this reason, it is recommended to buy foam blocks with the mentioned width parameter.
As a rule, the long part of the block is laid along the wall structure to reduce material consumption and facilitate the installation process.
Purchasing ready-made corner foam blocks also simplifies construction - there is no need for careful inspection corner element(measure the deviation from the value of 90º) when laying.
Blocks are held together cement mortar with the addition of sand. This adhesive base is a good heat insulator and is inexpensive.

For reference . The block masonry option, material grade and foam block size largely determine the final price of the garage.

Main accents of the stage:

Setting up corner points and stretching the cord between corners. Wall masonry is done along the thread.
Alternating corner and wall masonry.
Reinforcement of masonry with a special mesh after every two rows of blocks.
Embedding of rods welded to the gate frame into block masonry.
A metal lintel must be mounted above the gate structure, followed by masonry of the upper sector of the wall.

Note . To make the lintel, a 0.5 cm corner is used. It is the basis for a welded frame corresponding to the size of the gate. Its installation on cement mixture carried out inside the garage building, close to the foam blocks, or more precisely to the inside of the wall. Next, a beam (I-beam) is used. It is mounted on the gate structure and frame element (in fact, it is mounted on them). The minimum amount of edge penetration into the wall is 200 mm.

About laying blocks depending on the type of roof:

If a shed roof option is selected, the walls cannot be the same height. The slope goes in the direction “wall with gate - back wall”, while maintaining a reduction in the height of the side walls at every meter by 50 mm.
If the roof is gable, the roof walls are covered with foam blocks or wood. In the first case, it is necessary to continue the wall masonry to the very top. By the way, the choice is in favor pitched roof significantly reduces the cost of constructing a garage.

For reference . The slope of foam blocks is quite simple task. To cut the material you will need a regular saw.

5. Garage roof

Considering the lightness of foam blocks and the choice in favor of a pitched roof type, further actions boil down to the following steps:

Installing I-beams across garage walls. The distance between the beams is 800 mm. The length of the parts exceeds the width of the wall by 250 mm - for good protection from rain and so on, the roof must protrude beyond the contour of the walls.
The bottom of the beam shelves is tightly covered with forty-millimeter-thick boards.
The boards are covered with roofing felt, the edges of which are curved upward. The bend size is 100 mm.
Then a layer of any dry insulation is poured. Let's say expanded clay.
The insulation is “covered” concrete screed. Its height should not exceed 30 mm.
After the screed has completely dried, the cement surface should be treated with bitumen-based mastic.
The finishing layer is roofing felt. It is laid using fusion technology. Work begins from the bottom point of the roof and moves upward, the canvases are laid across the building with obligatory overlap. This method will ensure free flow of water without any seepage inside the roofing “pie”.

For comfortable operation of the garage, the gate cannot do without a visor. There are many options here, from self-made from corners and polycarbonate before purchase finished product. There is no shortage of such offers on the market.

6. Garage flooring option

Floor arrangement not less than important stage construction of a foam block garage. The vehicle load cannot be classified as small. For this reason, the only correct choice is concrete covering. However, for other areas, wood material can be used.

What to do:

Multilayer powder of crushed stone - up to 150 mm, sand - up to 100 mm, gravel - up to 100 mm. As you fall asleep, each layer is compacted.
Pour the powder over the concrete. Screed height from 200 mm.

A few final words

The cost of foam concrete blocks for building a garage is only a third of the total costs. A significant investment is required for the foundation, roofing, and other materials from the “related” category. And yet, a foam block garage will cost less than a brick or other analogue.

The video story will tell you about the features of constructing a garage from foam blocks