Every person who has acquired a car will need a place where he can store it, repair it, and so on. In other words, . And when building a garage, the most difficult stage is building the foundation, so today we’ll talk about pouring the floor in the garage with our own hands.

What kind of floor do we need?

The floor covering must have the following qualities:

1. Fire safety.
2. Ability to prevent excess moisture.
3. Durability.

To this you can also add what you want your garage to look like. Today, the materials used to cover the floor can be different, but concrete is rightfully considered the most popular. Even if there are severe loads, then concrete base will last as long as possible. Therefore, pouring the floor with concrete is the best option.

What are the characteristics of a concrete base?

Before starting the pouring process, it is necessary to consider its main features. First of all, it cannot always be used. This could be, for example, a strong slope of the surface, or a close location to the garage groundwater.

Also, concrete is cold, so winter time can bring a lot of problems, especially if there are problems with heating the garage.

Concrete quickly wears off, turns into dust and floats throughout the room, causing allergic reactions. It also absorbs dirt and engine oil very well. Odors in the garage linger for a long time.

But all these disadvantages of concrete pavement are easy to avoid if you strictly follow the work technology.

Filling the garage floor: a step-by-step guide

The ideal base for a garage floor is a monolithic reinforced concrete slab which was laid on the floor. Here our floor is being built at record speed. All you need is additional costs for the delivery of the stove itself, several assistants and, of course, crane. Thus, the floor is installed faster, but more expensive.

You can save money and fill concrete screed with his own hand. Many people do this, but you need to remember that despite the minimized financial costs, you still have a large amount of work to do. We also note that often when constructing a garage, the foundation is placed only under the walls, and the rest of the surface, accordingly, will be bare earth.

Therefore, we will pour concrete onto the ground. I would like to note right away that it is not recommended to do this if the garage is located low, since the room may be flooded if there is groundwater near it. This cannot be done even with a steep slope of the surface, because the construction of a basement covering with accompanying elements will be required. But if all conditions are strictly met, then you can safely start pouring concrete. To begin with, we note that the concrete floor has several layers, here they are:

1. Gravel.
2. Sand.
3. Reinforced concrete.
4. Good waterproofing.
5. Insulation.
6. Final floor screed.

Now step by step instructions.

Step one: prepare the base

First, we need to dig a hole, remove loose soil, and also create some kind of cushion of sand and gravel. For this purpose, we compact the bottom of the pit and cover its surface with liquid clay. Then we fill in a layer of gravel, the height of which should be from thirty to eighty centimeters. In order to control this process, you can drive special wooden pegs into the walls.

We level the gravel, remove the largest pieces of it, compact everything again and fill it with a ten-centimeter ball of sand.

Step two: waterproofing

There are a great variety of materials used for waterproofing, but the most inexpensive and, therefore, accessible of them is polyethylene film. We must cover the entire floor surface with it. Where the pieces of film will be joined, we overlap them and glue them together using adhesive tape (ordinary PVC will do for this).

We must arrange the polyethylene in such a way as to cover all the walls of our pit. In other words, we should get a kind of polyethylene bath that would not allow liquid to pass through. If you do not have the opportunity to use film, then some other soft insulating material will do.

Step three: create a subfloor

It is intended to strengthen the entire structure. Reinforced concrete is used for this. We will need an iron mesh, the cells of which would be 10 by 10 centimeters, as well as a metal rod with a diameter of about 0.7 centimeters. We install the mesh at the bottom of the resulting pit, but first we need to equip a low wooden formwork.

Exactly how we will make the formwork will directly depend on the area of ​​the room and the pit itself. In the case of large room It would be more expedient to make equal square-shaped compartments. Accordingly, we will be able to directly control the height of the subfloor, as well as distribute the concrete as evenly as possible. The mesh must fit inside these compartments. In the case of small garage the formwork should be equipped only around the perimeter, while the mesh will occupy the entire space.

Pour the solution into the squares and level its surface using the rule. After it sets, the slats must be removed, and the voids remaining after this procedure are filled with the same solution. Regarding the quality of the screed, it will directly depend on the quality of the used concrete mortar, so it is necessary to mix it, strictly adhering to the appropriate proportions.

And our proportions are as follows. Cement (the grade of which will be at least 400 M) is mixed with river sand in accordance with 1 to 3, then add 3 of the same parts of crushed stone. There is only one more ingredient left - water. Its quantity will be controlled “by eye” so that the resulting solution is neither liquid nor thick. In other words, we should get a kind of “sour cream”.

Drying the subfloor must also be done correctly. When the solution is poured, we completely cover it with film. Each subsequent day, the film is removed, the solution is wetted and the film is put back. This will continue for approximately four weeks until the rough screed is completely dry. And only after this we can confidently move on to the next step.

Step four: insulate the screed

Insulating the screed is not a mandatory procedure, but in cases where the garage is adjacent to the home and is heated in winter, this is simply necessary. What material should I use for this? Experts recommend polystyrene foam.

Before you begin installing the insulation, the floor in the garage needs to be covered. rolled penofol. This should be done with the foil side up. Then mats of insulating material are installed and fastened together using special fastening dowels.

Sheets of rolled polystyrene foam - perfect for insulating screeds

Step five: final screed

It is mounted again on the insulating material (if you installed one). metal mesh, on which small beacons for the level are attached. You need to know that most experts strongly recommend making a slight slope towards the gate. Thus, if you wash your car in the garage, water will not accumulate inside, but will flow out.

In principle, the final screed is done in the same way as the rough screed. Its height will be thirty to fifty millimeters. And if we take into account everything present in concrete floor layers, then we get about one hundred and fifty centimeters.

Finally, I would like to give you some more useful tips.

As a conclusion

As we can see, pouring a concrete floor in a garage is not very difficult. The technology is simple and does not require a lot of effort from you. You can even do this yourself, but a few helpers won’t hurt you. The pouring process must be continuous so that the foundation of your garage is intact. Concrete is an excellent option for the floor in the garage. It is durable, resistant to acids and chemicals, critical temperatures and varying degrees of mechanical damage. Its useful life is quite long, and, finally, caring for it is as easy as shelling pears.

Video - pouring a concrete floor in a garage

In this article we will not talk about the installation of floors in garage boxes and public garages. It’s unlikely that anyone will make them with their own hands. Let's talk about the concrete floor in a private garage for one or two cars.

Garage floor requirements

In flooring there is such a thing as floor design. For design, it is necessary to determine the operating conditions of future floors and determine their design from them.

The floor in a private garage, which I will further call a garage floor, is not exposed to large automotive equipment, tractors will not drive on it, and therefore the mechanical impact on the garage floor will be considered moderate. Also, precipitation and direct flows of water will not fall on the floor in the garage, because we do not expect to wash the car directly in the garage. Therefore, we will consider the impact of moisture on the garage floor to be average, with a margin.

These operational features medium exposure to humidity and moderate mechanical exposure will be the basis for the conditional design of the floor.

Garage floor design

We will draw the floor structure in the garage based on the recommendations of SP 29_13330 of 2011, entitled “Floors”. According to this document, a concrete floor in a garage with the operational features listed above must be:

• With a slope of 1-2% from the middle to the sides. If you think your garage floor will be dry, then a slope is not needed;
• The total thickness of the concrete floor including the subsoil, sub-base layer, screed and floor covering in the floor structure must be at least 120 mm.

Garage floor subfloor

The base of the floor in the garage can be any soil, except peat, black earth and other weak soil. They require replacement. The base of the floor must either be leveled, or the required slope of 1-2% must be made on the ground. The base soil must be compacted.

If the underlying layer is planned to be made of concrete rather than sand or gravel, then the soil should be reinforced with a layer of crushed stone (gravel), which must be sunk 40 mm into the ground. In addition, under the concrete underlying layer, it is necessary to make waterproofing against the penetration of sewage and groundwater.

Garage waterproofing

Waterproofing must be provided under the concrete underlying layer if:

• There is a high probability of groundwater rising to the bottom of the underlying layer.
• If the underlying layer is below the level of the blind area of ​​the house.

Waterproofing a garage is combined with waterproofing the foundation of a house, the walls of a basement or semi-basement.

For waterproofing use:

• Bituminous rolled materials on mastic;
• Polymer self-adhesive materials;
• Polyethylene laid on prepared soil
• Bitumen mastics;
• Polymer mastics;
• Cement waterproofing mortars in the form of screed on the ground;
• Self-leveling waterproofing made from bitumen-impregnated crushed stone (gravel);
• Asphalt concrete.

From this list, the first three points are practically used in private housing construction.

Subfloor layer

The underlying floor layer acts as a damper between the floor screed and the base. In theory, it is made from options (either/or):

• A layer of sand 60 mm thick;
• Layer of gravel (crushed stone) 80 mm;
• Concrete 100 mm thick.

For garage construction, underlying layers of concrete are used. This underlying layer is called hard and is performed:

• Made of monolithic concrete;
• Made of reinforced concrete;
• Made of reinforced concrete;
• Made from SFRC (steel fiber reinforced concrete)
• From SFBZh (steel-fiber-reinforced concrete);

Where the concrete class must be at least B22.5.

Concrete class B22.5

At home, concrete class B22.5, concrete grade M300, is “prepared” as follows (read concrete grades):

• Cement M400 (cement: sand crushed stone) 1: 1.9: 3.7 (kg) /// 1: 1.7: 3.2 (liter)
• Cement M500 (cement: sand: crushed stone) 1: 2.4: 4.3 (kg) /// 1: 2.2: 3.7 (liter)

The price of a cubic meter of ready-mix concrete B22.5 in the Moscow region is about 2700 (gravel) - 2950 (granite) rubles. For a garage 3 by 6 meters, you need 1.8 -2.0 cubic meters of concrete, without building driveways.

Screed

If you do not need to cover communications or cover a layer of thermal insulation, then a floor screed in the garage as a separate element of the floor structure is not needed.

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Garage floor covering

The next element of the garage floor design is the floor covering. It can be done:

• Made of concrete B 22.5, 25 mm thick;
• From CPS mortar 30 mm thick (concrete B 30);
• Cement-concrete slabs 30 mm;
• Mosaic concrete slabs 30 mm;
• Xylolite 20 mm;
• Ceramic acid-resistant plates 30-35 mm;
• Self-leveling polymer floor 4 mm;
• Laying flooring ceramic tiles and porcelain stoneware on floors with average intensity of mechanical impact according to SP not allowed.

It is worth noting that in a “home” garage, the floor covering can be special rubber slabs and other covering material, which is discussed in the article How to cover a concrete floor in a garage.

How to make a concrete floor in a garage with your own hands

We are considering the option that the garage is part of the house, its extension and is combined with the house by a common foundation, or the option of the garage as a separate building on a strip foundation.

Stage 1. Preparing the base (soil).

Works included:

• Removing the grass layer of soil.
• Backfilling (backfilling) of soil to a level above the street level.
• Soil compaction.

Stage 2. Compacting the base with crushed stone.

Cover the base with a layer of crushed stone. Compacting crushed stone into the ground 40 mm.

Stage 3. Sand cushion for easy installation of waterproofing (optional).

If polyethylene (2 layers of 200 microns each) is chosen as a waterproofing material, then a sand cushion can be made for its safe installation. The pillow needs to be compacted.

Stage 4. Waterproofing.

Waterproofing is carried out over the entire area of ​​the garage using polyethylene or rolled waterproofing material extending 30 cm onto the foundation.

Stage 5. Perimeter damper.

Along the perimeter of the garage, along the foundation, 20-30 cm strips of solid insulation with a thickness of 20-30 mm are laid.

Stage 6. Formwork for concrete.

To prevent concrete from leaking onto the street, blocking formwork is made.

Stage 5. Concreting the floor with reinforcement.

Reinforcement is carried out over the entire area of ​​the garage, with a mesh with cells of 10 by 10 cm. The mesh should be raised 3 cm from the surface.

Concreting is done from the far corner of the garage to the exit. If the concrete is mixed by hand, it is better to divide the garage into sections.

Installation of beacons for a concrete garage floor no need. The concrete is leveled with a homemade wide squeegee made from boards. The thickness of the concrete layer is from 100 mm. Under paving slabs A thickness of 100 mm is sufficient, for a self-leveling polymer floor, the thickness of a concrete floor is from 120 mm.

To ensure uniform leveling, beacon boards are attached to the garage walls or strips of insulation are laid at the required level.

Stage 6. Concrete care. 28 days of hardening.

The first three days the concrete is wetted with water and covered with polyethylene. During the next 28 days of concrete hardening, a draft-free ventilation regime is observed.

Stage 7. Installation of the final floor covering

The final coating of the garage floor is done after the concrete has completely dried and a moisture test has been carried out. As finishing coating garage floors are made:

• Self-leveling polymer floor,
• Laying stone tiles;
• Laying street clinker;
• They make rubber floors, etc.

Articles on the topic

• Concrete floors with a hardened top layer: liquid and dry hardening technologies

Pouring a garage floor can be done in different ways. Concrete floors are attractive for their durability, comparative cheapness and the ability to make them yourself. For many car enthusiasts, the garage becomes a second home, and therefore the issue of arranging this room is taken very seriously.

The floor in the garage is subject to specific conditions that distinguish it from similar coatings in other rooms. In addition to the standard requirements for any floor covering(strength, moisture resistance, durability, environmental friendliness, fire safety), the floor in the garage is exposed to specific influences:

1. Significant mechanical load caused by the mass of the car has both a static (when the car is standing) and a dynamic (when the car is moving) nature.
2. Local mechanical loads when installing a jack and other mechanisms.
3. Impact mechanical loads caused by falling heavy objects and tools, often with sharp edges and corners.
4. Chemical influences occur when quite aggressive substances such as gasoline, diesel fuel, engine oil, coolant, solvents, etc. often come into contact with the floor, as well as the influence of exhaust gases.

As a rule, there are no high design requirements for garage flooring, but the reliability parameters must be high. The concrete floor in the garage, in general, satisfies the basic requirements, and therefore is popular in garage construction.

There are problems that do arise during the operation of concrete pavement. As a result of dynamic load when driving a car, significant dust appears, caused by the constant exfoliation of particles of concrete components from the surface. Oil and gasoline stains on concrete covering form stains that not only spoil the appearance of the floor, but also violate standards fire safety. In addition, these substances, when absorbed into concrete, destroy it and cause unpleasant and harmful fumes, especially at elevated temperatures. Problems mentioned necessitate a particularly careful approach to pouring and applying the necessary additives and protective coatings.

Concrete floors in garages are made using a sand-cement mixture. The most common recipe for the composition: cement of a grade not lower than M400 (1 part), river sand (3 parts) and fine crushed stone (3 parts). All this is thoroughly mixed with water until it becomes thick sour cream. A concrete floor screed ensures that the most important requirements are met, but to create a truly durable and reliable garage floor, it is necessary to provide waterproofing from below (protection from groundwater and precipitation) and a protective cover from above (from peeling, dust and impregnation with chemically active liquids).

Surface protective coating can be provided in several ways. The following products are often used: polyurethane or epoxy composition, special paint for concrete. Such a coating should not produce a sliding effect for humans and car wheels, which is ensured by the necessary surface roughness.

Will help provide the necessary protection modern materials. One of the popular options is a topping system. This dry mixture contains cement, plasticizers, pigments and fillers, providing improved mechanical and chemical properties. A solution prepared from this mixture is applied over the concrete screed until it hardens completely. This reinforcing coating adheres reliably to concrete pouring and creates a reliable protective layer. It is important, after 4-5 hours of exposure, to carry out the final grouting of the layer using a special paddle tool.

Necessary tool

When making a concrete floor in a garage, you should prepare the following tools:

• grinder for cutting reinforcement;
• construction mixer;
• vibrator or bayonet shovel;
• shovel;
• trowel;
• spatula;
• rule;
• hammer;
• hacksaw;
• pliers;
• roulette;
• construction level;
• metal ruler;
• container for preparing the solution;
• measuring bucket

Pouring a concrete floor

In order to properly pour concrete on a garage floor, it is necessary to carry out several mandatory measures to waterproof and strengthen the screed. If necessary, you can also think about insulating the floor.

How to fill a garage floor with concrete; in a garage, a concrete floor is installed as follows:

1. Removal of soil over the entire floor area to a depth of 40 cm. The surface is well compacted.
2. Forming a pillow under the screed. For this purpose, a layer of fine gravel 15-20 cm thick and a layer of sand 10-15 cm thick are poured. If you want to insulate the floor in the garage, then instead of gravel you can use expanded clay or slag.
3. Laying waterproofing. Roofing material or polyethylene film of increased thickness is laid on top of the pillow. The material is laid with an overlap of at least 20 cm.
4. Installation of the reinforcing layer. A reinforcing layer in the form of a mesh of steel reinforcement with a diameter of 12-16 mm must be laid on the waterproofing layer. If the garage has a large area or is intended for a heavy car, then the reinforcement is carried out in 2 layers. At intersections, the reinforcing rods are tied together with steel wire.
5. Installation of boundary formwork. A limiter in the form of a board of the required width is installed around the perimeter of the garage and also limits the inspection hole.
6. Installation of beacons. To ensure that pouring the garage floor ensures a level floor, it is recommended to use beacons, the tops of which form the surface of the concrete screed. Such beacons can be made of wood or metal, and are fixed strictly vertically over the entire floor area in increments of 50-60 cm. The imaginary surface along the tops of the beacon is checked using a building level. The surface can be strictly horizontal or with a specified slight slope.
7. Preparation and mixing of concrete mortar. It is important to ensure uniform mixing of the ingredients, and therefore it is recommended to use a construction mixer if pouring is done manually, without using a concrete mixer.
8. Pouring a rough concrete floor. The solution is distributed evenly over the entire floor area with a shovel, compacted, and then leveled using a metal rule. The surface is leveled along the tops of the beacons. The thickness of the concrete layer is about 12-20 cm. Compaction of the mass is carried out using a vibrator, and in its absence, using a bayonet shovel. Filling the entire area in one go is very difficult due to the significant volume of solution. To simplify the task, concrete is poured in areas that are limited by temporary mobile formwork made from boards of the required width. The poured subfloor is kept for 10 days to dry and gain strength.
9. Filling the finishing layer. The previous reinforced concrete layer is considered the subfloor. The finishing layer is poured on top of it. cement screed. She ennobles appearance and redistributes the load. A screed is made from a mixture of cement and sand in a ratio of 1:3 with a thickness of 4-6 cm. The above-described reinforcing topping system can be used as the final coating.
10. Formation protective coating. If you want to increase the reliability of the garage floor, you can pour a protective layer of epoxy mixture or polyurethane composition on top of the concrete screed. The manufacture of such protection is carried out strictly in accordance with the instructions for the material.

Concrete garage floors are widely used among car enthusiasts because... satisfies all requirements quite fully. To increase reliability, it can be coated with protective layers. Anyone can make such a floor, but certain rules must be followed.

How to pour concrete on a garage floor in a garage updated: November 15, 2016 by: Artyom

Proper organization of garage storage of a car, as practice shows, is one of the components of a long and trouble-free service of the car, and also a solution to many problems associated with maintenance and repair, the possibility of starting in winter, and simply the issue of safety.

Undoubtedly, garage storage of cars provides all these advantages, especially if the garage building itself is designed according to the design and taking into account the needs of the owner himself. But for some reason, many owners postpone such a moment as a smooth and durable floor in the room until the final stage of construction. And at the same time, this is one of the most important elements of the garage parking structure.

For an already constructed garage building, pouring the floor requires some complex preparatory work:

1. On initial stage the surface is cleared of construction debris and pre-leveled.
2. Next, the location of the building relative to the surrounding area is assessed. In the majority garage doors are designed on a small hill in relation to the road, since otherwise there is a high risk of getting a small pool inside the building in the spring and summer, and winter period— a skating rink filled with ice. Thus, the gate level will be taken as the floor level.
3. It is recommended to immediately outline the floor level along the perimeter of the walls, so that during work it will be easier to navigate in relation to the laying of the base layers.
4. Inside the building, the condition of the soil, its density and the presence of groundwater close to the surface are assessed. Such an assessment is required to determine the scope of work for laying the floor and calculating the necessary materials.

Work to prepare the site for the foundation is carried out in the following order:

1. Leveling the site.
2. Raising and removing the top layer of soil.
3. Preparing the earthen surface for filling with crushed stone and creating a cushion.

At the end of the preparatory work, a flat, solid surface of the soil base should be obtained.

Determining the laying thickness

A simple calculation shows that for an average car weighing up to 2.5 tons it is quite enough:

• top concrete slab thickness 15-17 cm;
• layer of insulation (if the garage is planned to be used as a car repair shop or just a workshop in the winter) 10-15 cm;
• a layer of sand up to 10 cm thick;
• gravel or crushed stone 15-20 cm.

Total, in total 55-62 cm. It should be noted right away that this “pie” may have certain deviations, but in general the dimensions of the layers must be respected.

Quite often, garage cooperatives grow in vacant lots or dumps, where the construction of residential buildings is very difficult and where the soil is very unstable. In this case, it is recommended to increase the thickness of each layer by at least 5 cm, and make the concrete screed with additional reinforcement with welded steel mesh.

Tools and materials, choice of concrete grade

The ideal option for pouring a concrete floor in a garage would be to use already ready-mixed concrete from a mixer, but given that this is often quite problematic, you will have to prepare the solution yourself. To do this you need to prepare the following tool:

• concrete mixer;
• shovel;
• trowel;
• minimum length rule: 2 meters;
• a long building level or, even better, a laser level;
• grinder with cutting wheels;
• welding machine;
• hammer and mallet;
• tamper;
• special clothing and protective equipment.

• crushed stone of medium fraction;
• sand;
• boards 15 mm thick;
• reinforcement 8 or 10 mm;
• welded mesh of the middle cell.

Preparing the pillow

The first layer is laid on the soil base layer of crushed stone. Crushed stone of the middle fraction is evenly distributed over the entire surface, and after checking the level of horizontality, it is compacted using a tamper.

Placed on top of the compacted layer of crushed stone layer of sand. Just like crushed stone, it is leveled and compacted. When compacting, in addition to tamping, you can consider using a vibrating plate or a garden roller.

Damper gap, hydro- and thermal insulation

The top layer of the concrete floor should be considered as a separate monolithic structure, which, like all objects, tends to change its size depending on the ambient temperature. In order to prevent mutual deformations of the walls and base, it is recommended to arrange a damper gap around the perimeter of the floor. Simply put, it is nothing more than setting it up as a buffer layer wooden planks 15 mm thick around the entire perimeter.

The role of such a gap when constructing a floor of several slabs is played by demarcation strips used to fence the perimeter of each of the slabs.

To prevent the capillary entry of moisture from the soil under the slab and its destruction, it is recommended to make a waterproofing layer using standard waterproofing products used in construction technology – roofing felt or polyethylene film . Most the best option the film protrudes, this material will make the coating uniform, without joints, and besides, it will cost much less than roofing felt.

The waterproofing is laid in such a way that the film or roofing felt lies evenly over the entire surface area, and the edges extend onto the walls of the garage and are raised above the base by 5-7 cm.

The following can be used as a thermal insulation layer:

• dense sheet foam;
• expanded clay

From the point of view of efficiency, expanded clay looks more preferable both in terms of practicality of work and in terms of safety, because polystyrene foam is a favorite habitat for rodents.

Expanded clay is carefully distributed over the entire garage area and lightly compacted with a roller.

Reinforcement

It is recommended to install a metal reinforcing grid in accordance with the size of the car. So, in the place where the wheels are supposed to pass, it is recommended to install longitudinal bars of the grid every 7-10 cm; in other places it is enough to place the reinforcement in such a way that it turns out cells 15*15 or 20*20 cm. For heavier equipment, you can strengthen the parking area with an additional layer of reinforcement.

The ideal option for fastening the reinforcement is to fasten the rods using electric welding, but for a small load it is enough to connect them with soft mounting wire.

It is recommended to raise the reinforcement belt above the insulation layer by 5-7 cm so that the concrete can freely penetrate under the reinforcement and the belt structure is in the middle of the concrete layer. Additionally, it is recommended to install and fix a welded grating, this will strengthen the floor structure.

The reinforcing layer is installed so that it is 5-7 cm lower from the surface.

Installation of beacons

To obtain an even and smooth surface It will be necessary to install beacons that will serve as guide supports for leveling the surface of the poured concrete.

They are installed independently of the reinforcing belt of the slab. For installation, it is recommended to simply drive metal pins from the fittings into the surface of the pillow. On top of them, taking into account reconciliation in horizontal plane and guides in the form of beacons will be fixed.

If there is a long rule, it is enough to install three guide beacons - one guide along the walls and one in the middle. Rule small size will require the installation of more of these devices.

The distance between the beacons is chosen so that the rule lies freely on them with a margin of 10 cm on each side.

This condition is necessary so that when leveling the surface, the rule moves not only along the guides, but also with small movements “right-left” to level the top layer.

Direct pouring

The work order is as follows:

1. Pouring with homogeneous concrete is carried out starting from the closest angle from the gate.
2. The finished portion of the solution is leveled over the base area so that it is 1-2 cm above the level of the beacons.
3. After unloading the concrete, as a rule, gradually moving in the direction of concreting, vibration movements are carried out to level the surface.
4. Gradually moving towards the gate, the entire floor area is filled and leveled.

You can clearly see the general procedure in the following video:

What kind of care will be required?

It is recommended to leave the poured surface to dry for 1-2 days. Usually, 3 days after pouring, you can already walk on concrete, and after 7 days it is able to withstand the first load, although it will only gain its design strength at normal temperatures. on the 28th day.

In the hot season, concrete is very afraid of the top layer drying out; this can lead to cracking of the surface or even peeling of the layers. To prevent this, it is recommended to moisten the surface with a small amount of water, starting from 2 days. Further, during operation, it will be enough to simply periodically clean and irrigate the base with water.

When constructing a garage, it is necessary to think about the arrangement of the floor and subsequently carry out all the work correctly, which will guarantee the safety and trouble-free operation of the constructed structure. High quality coating must be strong, durable and stable. Filling a garage floor with concrete with your own hands is not difficult, you just need to use quality material and carry out all work in full accordance with technology.

The floor in the garage bears a significant load, so the quality of its arrangement must be given due attention. Such a surface should be characterized by maximum strength and stability, and by choosing the right material used, you can significantly reduce the cost of construction work. It is not difficult to correctly pour concrete flooring in a garage, so you can do all the work yourself, saving on contacting professional builders.

Concrete floor has the following advantages:

A properly equipped surface can easily withstand the weight of a loaded car, while such material does not crack, retains its geometry, and is characterized by maximum durability. Concrete is resistant to various chemicals, so you can carry out various types of work in the garage. renovation work and car maintenance without fear of damaging your homemade floor.

Given that the right choice The cement coating will easily withstand significant temperature changes, which ensures maximum durability of the constructed structure.

Main stages of construction

Step by step guide concrete floor in the garage with your own hands will significantly simplify construction work. You just need to use high-quality design documentation for the construction of the structure. Only in this case will it be possible to guarantee the subsequent trouble-free operation, strength and durability of the constructed garage.

The main stages of construction are as follows:

• Arrangement inspection hole.
• Demarcation of floor level.
• Excavation and soil preparation.
• Arrangement of a cushion made of crushed stone and sand.
• Additional reinforcement.
• Pouring concrete.

Having planned everything correctly necessary work, you can independently install a high-quality concrete garage floor that is guaranteed to last for many years. Such work is not particularly difficult, therefore, even without construction experience, you can make a base and foundation with your own hands, make a high-quality sand cushion, pour a screed reinforced with additional reinforcement with wire and steel elements.

Preparing the base

The concrete floor is poured in the garage over the ground, which is first leveled, compacted, and a sand cushion is placed on top of the base, which will guarantee maximum strength, durability and quality of the work performed. To increase the strength, reliability and density of the base, a cushion of sand and crushed stone is made. You will need to remove the top fertile layer soil, which allows you to remove some microorganisms, organic matter from plant roots and subsequently eliminates problems with unwanted vegetation.