Bearded irises - growing care and some varieties. Bearded irises

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Recently, lovers of perennial iris flowers are increasingly cultivating beardless varieties. But fans of the classics prefer growing bearded irises - beautiful and austere flowers with a massive petal in the form of a “tongue” or “beard”, which is distinctive feature this plant, its “zest”. By grouping varieties of irises by flowering time, you can provide decorativeness from May to July.

In nature, there is a flower that smoothly leads us from spring to summer. The first ones early spring, wild irises bloom, they are replaced by “bearded” dwarfs and Spuria, and by the end of May the garden shimmers with all the colors of the rainbow thanks to numerous varieties of tall bearded irises. In June, marking the arrival of summer, Siberian and Japanese flowers delight us with their grace.

The perennial plant iris belongs to the family Irisaceae, or iris. There are about 200 species native to Europe, Asia, Africa, North America. In the 20th century Irises have gained wide recognition among flower growers in most countries, and in terms of the number of varieties (more than 35 thousand), this crop has taken one of the first places.

You can judge what an iris looks like even from the most ancient frescoes. The history of the flower goes back centuries. Irises were cultivated in the gardens of the Egyptian pharaohs. IN Ancient Greece Entire fields were planted with them. Due to the variety of colors, the plant was given the name “iris”, which means “rainbow” in Greek. The ancient Hellenes revered irises and considered them messengers of the golden-winged goddess Iris, the messenger of the gods, the interpreter of their will.

Irises attracted people not only with their beautiful flowers. They were valued as medicinal plants, perfumery and confectionery raw materials.

Irises- perennial rhizomatous plants. The rhizome is located parallel to the soil level at a shallow depth and in bearded irises it comes to the surface. Rhizome containing stock nutrients, consists of annual units. The newly formed links end in a bunch of sessile leaves that die off annually. The leaves are broadly or narrowly xiphoid, straight or sickle-shaped, most often collected in a fan-shaped bunch. In spring they are usually light green, darkening in summer.

What is the difference between the description of bearded irises? hybrid varieties? The leaves of these plants are usually bluish with a waxy coating and, as a rule, persist until late autumn. Therefore, irises decorate the garden not only during flowering.

Peduncles branch and bear from 1 to 10 flowers or more. The number of branches depends on the type and variety. Stem height various types varies greatly - from 15 cm for dwarf iris to 2 m for marsh iris.

The flowers, distinguished by their extraordinary grace and sophistication, consist of 6 perianth lobes, arranged in two tiers: the three outer petals are bent downwards, and the three inner ones are raised up and form a dome. The perianth lobes are deployed in such a way that every detail of each “petal” is visible. What do bearded iris flowers look like? On their lower petals there are soft, bristly growths resembling a beard, which gives the group its name.

The iris flower is remarkable for its sparkling, mysterious shine of its petals, especially noticeable in the slanting rays of the sun or under electric lighting. This is explained by the peculiar structure of cells that focus light, like miniature optical lenses. It’s not for nothing that in the old days some people called irises gems rainbow colors.

The colors of the flowers are incredibly diverse. There are solemnly velvety, mysteriously black irises, but no less mysterious is the sparkling shine of white and light blue flowers, reminiscent of the transparency of ice or crystal. And between white and black there is a whole range of blue, purple, pink, yellow, reddish and even brown shades. Neither painting nor photography fully conveys the play of color, texture, and graceful lines of these flowers. It’s not for nothing that irises are compared to.

Look at what the iris looks like in the photo to once again enjoy the beauty of this plant:

Conditions for growing bearded irises

Now it's time to find out how irises are grown personal plots. For hybrid bearded irises, sunny places, protected from strong winds, are selected. They can tolerate light partial shade from trees. Most varieties have very large flowers, for which gusts of wind and rain are especially dangerous. Therefore, during the period of mass flowering in windy, rainy weather, gartering of flower stalks is required.

One more thing important condition for growing irises - the presence of light, loamy soil. If the soil in the area is heavy, it needs to be improved by adding sand and peat. Wood ash is added to acidic soils. Before planting, the area should be dug up with a spade and all weeds should be carefully removed. Rotted manure is applied to a depth of 20-25 cm, without mixing it with the soil.

Irises are afraid of excess moisture, so they grow best in areas with low standing. groundwater. However, during the period of budding and flowering, they show an increased need for water. Good watering at this time it helps to prolong flowering and creates favorable conditions for pollination. Watering is best done in the evening.

Faded flowers of bearded irises are removed, and the flower stalks are broken off entirely at the end of flowering. In late autumn, the leaves are shortened to 10 cm. Plants are covered with a small layer of mulch for the winter. Frost-unresistant varieties are covered more thoroughly. In the spring, after the snow melts, carefully stir up the compacted winter shelter. It is completely removed in early or mid-April, depending on weather conditions. Bearded irises, despite their southern origin, tolerate spring frosts quite well compared to other perennials with temperatures dropping to -5...-7 °C.

How to plant irises correctly and how to care for them

How to plant irises correctly to ensure their vigorous growth? Plants are propagated by rhizomes. To do this, the root is dug up and divided into planting units, the so-called delenki, each of which consists of 1-3 annual links. Before planting irises, root sections are treated with crushed charcoal or a solution of potassium permanganate.

When is the best time to plant irises so that they germinate on time? Optimal time for planting irises - 2 weeks after flowering. With a lump of earth they can be replanted at any time. However late boarding(later September 10-15) leads to poor rooting of plants. When planting, it is important that the division is not buried. The rhizome is placed almost at the level of the soil surface. A mound of earth is poured into the bottom of the hole and the roots are evenly spread along its slopes, covering them with earth and squeezing them tightly with your hands. Water generously with water and check once again whether the division is planted firmly enough. The rhizome should be horizontal, and the fan of leaves should be slightly inclined. Tall and medium-sized irises are planted at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other, and low-growing ones - 15-20 cm.

The landing links are positioned so that there is room for “movement”. Root system in irises it is directed forward (along the course of rhizome growth), and the planted section will continue to grow in that part where the fan of leaves is located. When planting irises in nests, the plane of the leaves should be directed across the outlined circle.

If the soil is clayey and does not drain water well, it is recommended to plant the tree on a “cushion” of sand or fine gravel so that the water does not stagnate and the rhizome does not rot. When planting, the rhizome is not buried, but only sprinkled with a layer of soil of no more than 2-3 cm - over time it will come to the surface on its own.

After planting irises, when caring for plants, fertilizing is carried out at least three times. Doesn't exist universal recommendations, how to care for irises in terms of fertilizers, but one rule must be firmly remembered: excessive fertilizing is detrimental to plants. The first feeding is carried out in the spring, immediately after removing the cover (nitrogen-phosphorus - 3:1), the second after 2-3 weeks (nitrogen-potassium - 1:1). At the end of flowering, nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (3:1:3) is added. The last feeding is very important for good flowering of irises next year, it should not be missed. Fertilizing is carried out at the rate of 10 liters of solution per 1 m2, or 6 iris bushes. During the summer, the soil around the plants is lightly sprinkled with ash 1-3 times, which is not only a top dressing, but also repels pests and prevents diseases.

Here you can see photos of planting and caring for irises of various groups:

Now that you know how to care for irises, check out the most popular varieties.

Varieties of bearded irises with photos, names and flowering dates

Bearded irises are divided into 3 groups according to height: low-growing (25-36 cm), medium-growing (37-70 cm), tall (more than 70 cm).

According to the timing of flowering, varieties are divided into early, mid-early, middle, mid-late and late. The beginning of flowering of each of these subgroups may vary from year to year depending on weather conditions. For example, in the Moscow region early varieties Bearded irises bloom in mid-May and bloom until the end of the month. The mid-early ones bloom in the last five days of May and finish flowering in the first ten days of June. Medium and mid-late varieties, which predominate in our gardens, bloom throughout June. Late varieties, which bloom in early July, are grown extremely rarely.

Based on flower color, irises are divided into 13 classes: white, red, orange, yellow, green, blue, violet, red-violet, black, two-tone, two-color, bordered, iridescent.

It should be noted that green in irises it has a yellowish or brownish tint. There are no varieties with scarlet, pure red coloring: irises have brown, terracotta, cherry shades. Pink irises are classified as light red. Brown classified as dark orange. Black has blue, violet, brown, dark cherry shades and is characterized by special depth and velvety.

Below you will see photos and names of varieties of bearded irises that bloom from mid-May, and also read their descriptions.

"Arkady Raikin". This variety of iris received its name in honor of the great Russian comedian. Peduncle 80-100 cm, strong, short-branched, 5-7-flowered. The flower is 12-13 cm, delicate reddish-pink in color, the outer lobes are semi-drooping, the inner lobes are slightly frilled at the edges, the aroma is strong.

"Beverly Hills". The height of the bush is 50 cm, peduncles are 80-85 cm. In an inflorescence there are 3-4 very spectacular flower with a diameter of 17 cm. The upper lobes of the perianth are light pink, very wavy, the lower ones are paler, floating. Pink beard.

"Blue Staccato" The height of the bush is 55-60 cm, peduncles are 90-100 cm. The inflorescence contains 4-5 very spectacular flowers with a diameter of 16 cm.

Pay attention to the photo of the flowers of this variety of bearded iris - the upper perianth lobes are blue-blue, wavy, slightly fringed, the lower ones are white with a blurred blue border, the beard is golden-yellow:

"Burgomaster". The height of the peduncles is 100-110 cm. There are 5-7 flowers in the inflorescence. The outer lobes are violet-lilac with a brownish border, the inner lobes are yellowish-cream. The beauty of the flower is emphasized by elegant corrugation.

"Gvardeysky". Peduncle 125-140 cm, strong, long-branched, 10-12-flowered. Flower 14-15 cm, sunny yellow with an orange beard, strong honey aroma.

"Canada's Gold" Peduncle 90-105 cm, strong, short-branched. The flower is light golden yellow with an orange beard and has a strong aroma. It blooms profusely and the bush grows quickly.

"Saprim Sultan". It has a powerful bush with strong peduncles up to 120 cm high and more. It has the largest flowers to date (more than 20 cm in diameter). This variety of bearded iris is bicolor: the inner lobes are bronze-yellow, the outer lobes are red-brown and velvety. It is distinguished by its beautiful corrugation and unusual bubbly edges of the petals.

"Kentucky Derby". The height of the bush is 50 cm, peduncles are 80-90 cm. The inflorescence has 5-6 flowers with a diameter of 16 cm. The perianth lobes are light lemon-yellow, wavy, with fringed edges, on the lower ones there is a creamy white spot in the center. The beard is golden.

Bearded irises can be recognized by the bristly stripe (“beard”) along the central vein of the flower. In modern varieties, the “beards” are often wide and fluffy. The varieties are so good that it is difficult to choose the most interesting. Especially now, when previously unknown varieties appear on sale every year. Those varieties that have not been considered new for a long time are also beautiful. And since the number of varieties of bearded irises is in the tens of thousands, the amateur gardener has a choice.

It is worth paying attention to dwarf and low-growing varieties. They are decorative, unpretentious, grow quickly and feel great even among stones. In the Moscow region, these irises usually bloom in the second half of May - early June. The popular medium-sized bearded irises bloom from early June. They are winter-hardy, do not break in the wind, stand well when cut and have many other advantages. The bush of tall irises looks luxurious, blooming from the beginning of June until the fourth decade of the month. This is the pride of an amateur gardener. However, the place for such beauties must be selected very carefully.

I often buy planting material bearded irises in chain supermarkets, in specialized stores, garden centers or nurseries. We have irises growing on our site, which some amateur flower growers I know shared with me.

Delenka in colorful packaging

In stores, bearded iris planting material is most often sold in a transparent bag with some kind of filler (dry peat or shavings). On the “cover” there is the name of the variety and a photo of the flower. Every year, according to my observations, the size of the division is becoming smaller. Therefore, I try to choose a bag in which a larger cut with live buds is sold.

The delenka should be viable and not drying out. Do not take moldy or softened rhizomes. Planting material purchased at the end of winter (during this period the assortment is richer) can sometimes survive only when grown. Such difficulties are justified when this is the only chance to grow a very beautiful or rare variety.

First of all, I carefully cut off some of the dried leaves. They are so tough that they can be an insurmountable obstacle to the growth of new leaves. After this, I plant the iris in the ground.

Feeding bearded irises

In the spring (after growth begins), while it is still cool, I feed the bearded irises with nitrate (sodium, potassium or calcium).

During the budding period, you can pamper the irises with Agricola (for flowering plants).

In summer (after flowering) I add ammonium sulfate or chloride. You can use universal fertilizer for flowers “Agricola No. 7” or Nitrophoska.

In autumn and throughout the season best fertilizer — .

How to cure iris?

Spring is a time when we eagerly await the sharp tips of leaves emerging from the ground. After all, it is by them that we judge how this plant overwintered. Especially after a long or frosty winter. Frosts (minus 7 - 15°C) at the end of autumn are dangerous for bearded irises, if there is not yet a sufficient layer of snow.

It happens that not only the flower buds freeze, but also the “back” of the rhizome. It is better to dig up such an iris and replant it, after cutting out the damaged tissue and drying it a little. Lateral renewal buds will help the plant survive if the rotting process can be stopped. Wood ash and brilliant green are suitable as medicine. You can use other methods to combat rotting. Once, expired streptocide powder helped me cure a rotten rhizome.

To combat gladiolus thrips and as a preventive measure, a solution of the systemic and contact insecticide “Confidor” helps. It is resistant to being washed away by rain. This drug has low toxicity for warm-blooded animals, but is dangerous for bees. It is better to carry out processing in the evening.

At fungal disease, heterosporiosis of iris, produces elongated brown spots that are first visible along the edges of the leaves. A strong plant may not suffer from this. However, severe infection (especially of weak bushes) leads to all the leaves drying out. Affected leaves are cut off and burned. It is recommended to subsequently treat the site of iris growth with copper oxychloride (2%), a solution of phytosporin or Strobi (more for prevention). To save the variety, it is better to dig up the rhizome and hold it in a phytosporin solution for about 20 minutes, dry it and replant it in a new place.

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Winter hardiness different varieties The variety of bearded irises varies, so it is more reliable to grow varieties that winter well in a given region. Bearded irises are propagated vegetatively by dividing the rhizomes of 3-5 year old plants. Bearded irises are planted in the summer - from mid-August, and at the very beginning of autumn, so that the plants have time to take root before the cold weather, but if necessary, irises can be planted in the spring. The August-September division of iris rhizomes produces a large percentage of plants that bloom in the first year after planting. You can begin replanting irises in your garden “from ground to ground” 2 weeks after the end of flowering and at a convenient time.

Bearded irises are usually grown in one place for no more than 5 years without compromising their decorative appearance, then the bushes are dug up with a pitchfork and cut into planting sections. A division is a part of a healthy rhizome with roots, usually it is an annual link with a blade of leaves, but for the propagation of valuable varieties a small piece of rhizome with dormant buds can be used. A piece of iris rhizome weighing only half a gram with one dormant bud can, under favorable conditions, give birth to a new plant that will bloom in the second year of the growing season! The remaining iris rhizomes without roots and leaves after cutting the sections are trimmed, removing damaged parts, and the sections are powdered with crushed charcoal, dried and planted in a separate bed for growing next season.

The rhizomes of the divisions are disinfected for 1-2 hours in a solution of beet-colored potassium permanganate, dried and heated in the sun for 3-5 hours. The leaves and roots of the division, if their length is more than 10 cm, are shortened. Bearded irises prefer well-drained, light soil without stagnant moisture in the sun, but they can also tolerate light shade (some gardeners successfully grow them under apple trees with a sparse crown). Too acidic soil is sprinkled with wood ash before planting irises. If there is a danger of stagnation of melt water in the spring, before planting, make a flowerbed for irises slightly raised above ground level. The distance between plants when planting irises depends on the purpose of planting and the height of the irises: low-growing irises are usually planted after 15 cm, medium-sized ones - after 20 cm, tall ones - after 40 cm. In free landscape compositions, irises are planted in groups of several pieces, placing the divisions around the circumference; the distance between groups is at least 1 m.

Some gardeners grow a collection of irises on a raised bed according to a 30x50 cm pattern, turning the iris leaves to one side when planting and directing the plane of the leaves across the beds. Before planting irises, the soil should be dug up using a spade, and a bucket of compost or well-rotted manure should be added as fertilizer per 1 sq.m. (fresh manure is not used to avoid rotting of the rhizomes), make planting holes, but fill the bottom with a mound of earth. The rhizome of the division is placed on a mound so that after planting it protrudes halfway above the soil level, the roots are spread along the sides of the mound and the hole is filled with earth, carefully compacting it with your hands. Burying the rhizome into the soil can lead to the death of the iris.

The iris rhizome can be secured from falling and for quick rooting with wire arms or wooden slingshots. After planting irises, the ground is watered abundantly; after it dries out, repeated watering is advisable after a few days. Further care for planting irises consists of manual weeding (so as not to damage the roots of irises located at the surface of the soil), shallow loosening of the soil. New plantings of irises need protection from freezing in late autumn: hilling with earth or covering with leaves, straw, pine needles, tops in a layer of up to 10 cm; the shelter is removed in early spring.

When choosing bearded irises to grow on your site, first of all, decide on the size. The fact is that these flowers vary in height: there are bearded irises that grow up to 70 cm, and there are those that rise above the ground no higher than 5 cm. The best varieties Bearded irises must meet certain requirements, you will learn about them by reading this material.

Medium-sized, tall and miniature bearded irises

Bearded irises are the largest group of irises, consisting of several classes.

Tall bearded irises (TV)- powerful plants with a height of 71 cm with a branched peduncle, many buds and large flowers, sometimes up to 20 cm in diameter. In the Moscow region they bloom from mid-June to early July.

Medium-sized bearded irises (MB) - from 41 to 70 cm in height, are in turn divided into three groups:

border irises (BB) with a flowering period similar to tall bearded ones, but with a proportionally smaller flower;
intermedia irises (IB) with a flower size of 10-13 cm and a flowering period in the Moscow region from the beginning of June; not necessarily highly branched, but forming a profusely flowering bush;
table, or miniature tall bearded irises (MTB) - with a tall thin branched peduncle and relatively small (no wider than 8 cm) flowers, used mostly for bouquets and tables, which is where their name comes from.

Standard Bearded Dwarfs (SDB)- 21-40 cm high, in the Moscow region they bloom from the end of May.

Miniature Bearded Dwarfs (MDB)- the smallest, the height of such bearded irises is 5-20 cm. These flowers bloom very early (in the Moscow region from the first half of May).

Requirements for tall bearded irises

The modern tall bearded iris is a striking flower! Any person who sees it is fascinated by its beauty and is extremely surprised when he learns that growing luxurious irises is no more difficult than any other garden flowers or even vegetables in the garden. Perhaps there are so many erroneous opinions about any crop that many, even very experienced gardeners, are wary of it, usually contrasting new varieties with old ones. And it’s completely in vain: among modern varieties there are plenty of those that can bloom reliably and regularly in middle lane and even have some advantage in resistance to the adversities of our harsh climate compared to historical varieties. Therefore, it is undoubtedly worth striving to acquire new varieties. But the main advantage of the new varieties is that they are immeasurably more beautiful than the old ones.

The progress in breeding flowers of tall bearded irises is amazing. The main attention is paid to the flower, because even just one flower - whether it grows in the garden or stands in a vase - can captivate the gardener’s imagination and make him fall in love forever. New ones are still appearing color combinations, exquisite color patterns that instantly gain immense popularity. But despite all the achievements in expansion color range irises, the main focus is on the quality of the flower.

Flower quality means:

wide, sometimes interlocking halyards and closed standards at the base, making the flower collected, rounded and expressive;
the density of the texture of the petals, which ensures resistance to precipitation and a longer lifespan of the flower;
grace and uniformity of corrugation of shares;
width, density and expressiveness of the beards.

An example of excellent flower quality is 'Paris Fashion' by Keith Keppel. Giant flowers peduncles proportional to their size are also required - tall, strong, resistant to gusts of wind. To ensure that the opening flowers do not interfere with each other, they must be “spaced” on sufficiently long branches, and in order to ensure a long flowering period, there must be a large number of buds in the inflorescence.

Particularly attractive are the so-called exhibition varieties that have 3-5 simultaneously open flowers on the peduncle.

Considerable attention is also paid to the garden attractiveness of the iris - the health of the foliage, the rapid growth of the bush and the representativeness of its flowering, when the optimal number of flower stalks on the bush is approximately equal to half the number of leaf fans.

Of particular interest are those varieties whose bushes emit flower stalks not simultaneously, but over a period of time, providing exclusively long flowering. Remontant varieties have a long flowering period.

At correct selection varieties, the flowering of tall bearded irises lasts for 50 days.

The main requirement for iris varieties for cultivation in the northern regions is growth energy, which makes it possible to compensate for many other shortcomings of the plant. The next most important quality is frost resistance. Ability to resist low temperatures in winter is associated with the rhythm of plant development. Irises, whose growth ends by the end of summer and the leaves die off, overwinter much better and, therefore, their flower buds are not damaged in harsh winters.

Tall bearded irises are a very heat-loving crop. Thus, in the Moscow region and to the north, only 20% of the varieties grow successfully from their total number. Therefore, my advice to amateur gardeners is to be interested first of all in its frost resistance when purchasing.

Resistance to fungal and bacterial diseases is another important quality. Resistance to bacteriosis and heterosporiosis ensures healthy foliage, decorative planting and regular flowering.

The standard planting unit for bearded irises is usually the annual growth of the iris rhizome. In the middle zone they reach acceptable sizes by early August. This is the reason for the recommended planting period - the first half of August, however, good results can be obtained if planted before the beginning of September.

Which rhizomes are best to take for planting: large or small, annual (short) or biennial (long)? The answer to this question depends on your goals: if by all means you want to see an iris flower the next year after planting, choose a large rhizome with a wide fan of 6-8 leaves. If flowering next year is not important to you, but the reliability of overwintering and the survival rate of the plant are paramount, choose a medium-sized one or two-year-old rhizome with a diameter of 2-2.5 cm, with 3-4 leaves.

Agricultural technology for growing bearded irises: planting and care

The agricultural technology for growing bearded irises depends on the purposes of their cultivation, so it is impossible to give any universal scheme. Some grow irises by planting and annually digging up planting material, usually for sale. Others plant irises to decorate the garden in a border, mixborder, rockery or on a rocky hill, where it is advisable not to touch them for several years.

The most important factors successful cultivation are illumination and drainage. Do not forget also that irises are heat-loving plants. The more sun irises receive in the garden, the better they bloom. A little shade in the morning or evening is, of course, acceptable, but only some varieties of irises, such as the intermedia ‘In a Flash’, will withstand more serious shade. Southern slopes are preferable to northern ones; a place near the southern wall of the building would also be good. It is good if the landing site is cleared from the prevailing cold winds.

When the soil is excessively moistened, the respiration of the roots is disrupted and they partially die, which leads to a slowdown in plant development.

Under such conditions, bacterial rot also develops on the rhizomes of irises.

If the soil is sufficiently drained, irises can also be planted on flat surface If the soil is heavy and clayey, then it is better to plant them on a hill or on ridges. Ridges are also more convenient from the point of view of constructing a winter shelter.

High soil fertility is the key to successful cultivation and productivity of tall bearded irises in central Russia.

Bearded irises do best in light, sandy soils. Loams are also acceptable, but the addition of sand and organic materials (peat, composted sawdust, humus) significantly improves the structure and permeability of the soil, which leads to excellent results. You just need to take into account that to improve the soil to a depth of 20 cm, you will need to add approximately 100 liters of sand per 1 m2 of soil.

The optimal level of soil reaction (pH) is 6.8.

If you intend to grow irises in beds, then their preparation consists of the following operations:

clearing the area from the roots of perennial weeds;
delivery to the site of compost or other available organic material;
leveling organic matter over the area while simultaneously adding wood ash or dolomite flour and mixing it with the soil with a pitchfork or shovel.
raking mineral fertilizers: potassium sulfate and superphosphate, as well as ground or colloidal sulfur in an amount of 5-7 g/m2;
shaping the profile of the ridge and compacting the soil to avoid further subsidence and bulging of newly planted plants. The height of the bed profile after compaction is approximately 7-8 cm;
delivery to the ridges of coarse-grained river or washed quarry sand in such quantity as to form a layer of approximately 5-7 cm, and level it;
The ridge is ready for planting. To preserve the structure of the ridge, it is convenient to plant bearded irises in the following way: spread the sand slightly by sticking the bayonet of a shovel into it, place the roots of the iris section into the resulting gap, compact the soil around the roots and water the substrate, move it towards the planted iris section so that it is in the layer sand.

The cuttings are planted on the ridge in such a way that the cut part of the rhizome is directed towards the edge of the ridge, and the fan of leaves is directed towards the middle. In this case, the growing roots will be directed towards the center of the ridge, which will make it easier in the future to water the plants into the groove in the center of the ridge.

Irises can be replanted at any time during the growing season. However, spring replanting may result in poor flowering this year. In the middle zone, optimal results are obtained when planting and replanting irises in August: the plants have enough time to take root and gain sufficient weight to fully bloom the next year. Irises planted later, that is, in the fall, usually remain healthy, but do not have time to take root before the onset of cold weather. This can lead to rhizomes sticking out of the ground when the soil freezes. To avoid bulging of the rhizome, additional mulching is required for the winter or simply fixing the rhizome with a suitable object at hand.

A common mistake when planting and caring for bearded irises is over-burying the rhizomes. It is recommended to plant irises so that the back of the rhizome is at the surface of the soil. In the winter, it is better to sprinkle the exposed rhizome with soil, and in the spring it needs to be raked off.

When caring for bearded irises, it is mandatory in the first weeks after planting the irises for successful rooting. To ensure abundant flowering, adult specimens of bearded irises require watering only when there is insufficient precipitation, especially in May, when the weather is often hot and dry, sometimes in June-July. However, in August, and even more so in September-October, adult bushes no longer need watering. At this time, the plant is preparing for winter, and its growth should not be stimulated.

Irises should be fed both in early spring and 3-4 weeks after flowering. Fertilizing with soluble fertilizers gives a quick effect: in the spring - complex with microelements, in July-August - potassium phosphate.

For the successful cultivation of bearded irises, phosphorus is the most important of the main nutrients; therefore, when preparing a site for irises, it is advisable to fill the soil with superphosphate (100 g/m2) or bone meal(200-300 g/m2). Can be used for spring-summer fertilizing complex fertilizer with a low nitrogen content, for example, NPK=6:10:10. The autumn mixture has a ratio of NPK = 0:13:18, it also contains magnesium and elemental sulfur, the latter being 5%. The spring mixture for feeding has the formula NPK=8:37:11.

The best organic fertilizer for iris culture - well-rotted compost.

Bearded irises successfully grow in one place for 4-5 years. The specific timing of bush renewal depends both on the variety and on the agricultural technology used. Some time after planting, the iris bush thickens, which ultimately leads to the cessation of flowering. How quickly thickening occurs depends on the multiplication rate of the variety. Some varieties are characterized by vigorous growth, and at the same time are not too demanding on external conditions.

As the bush ages, it is advisable to increase the amount of fertilizing. If these measures do not bring the desired effect, the bush needs to be dug up entirely, the soil should be updated by adding mature compost and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, and plant 3-4 of the strongest shoots, shortening the leaves by about 2/3.

Many modern varieties do not need shelter for the winter. If the variety is chosen for the beauty of the flower, but is not winter-hardy enough, additional efforts will be required in preparing for winter. The main problems for irises in winter in the middle zone arise when an ice crust forms on frozen ground without snow, preventing the plants from breathing.

It is convenient to cover irises with spruce branches or oak leaves, which have the property of not caking. To prevent such a frame from getting wet, it must be covered with a non-woven covering material or film - under them the irises will not smear in winter.

Irises overwinter best under dry air cover by first drying the ridge, which usually takes one month. The easiest way to provide protection from rain is to use a thick reinforced film laid on arches or directly on the foliage of irises. The ends of the shelter should be open for free air circulation, and they should be closed for the winter. The estimated construction time for the shelter is late October - early November.

In spring, the film is removed from the shelter as early as possible, immediately after the snow melts, and other material is removed as needed.

Varietal irises are propagated vegetatively, that is, by dividing the rhizomes. To speed up propagation, you need to remove the flower bud located at the base of the fan of leaves in the fall. After this, the plant’s lateral buds begin to grow, which form new powerful shoots in the spring. There is no need to dig up the rhizome to separate them. On a dry sunny day, you need to rake away the ground, tear off the dried and yellowing leaves, and cut the remaining green leaves to the rhizome. The cut must be disinfected and left to dry in the sun. After the wound has healed after a few days, the rhizome needs to be mulched with soil so that the awakening buds can form roots. Often recommended for propagating irises, dividing the rhizome into bud cuttings is much less effective way, since in this case the plant is severely injured and, as a result, flowering occurs much later.

For propagation, dormant buds on 2-3-year-old rhizomes can also be successfully used. To do this, pieces of rhizomes are cut out from the middle of the bush and simply transplanted to a new place.

New varieties of tall bearded irises for the middle zone

The description provides the following information: name of the bearded iris variety, originator, year of registration, characteristics of the flower, flowering period.

Sundress

Pirogov 2000

Golden-smoky top with a lilac touch. On the white field of the bottom there are purple dots and strokes, a golden-smoky border. Bright yellow pistil ridges glowing in the depths of the flower. Exceptionally vigorous growth and regular abundant and long-lasting flowering. Early.

Queen

Sholupov 2003

Rich purple-violet, with a velvety lobe texture and powerful corrugation. The exhibition peduncle easily holds several simultaneously open flowers. Average term flowering.

Cranberry Sauce

Black 2002

Cranberry South

A silky-brilliant flower with a lilac-crimson tint. Yellow beards highlight the magnificent depth of color. Average flowering time.

Darcy's Choice

Schreiner 2007

Aarsis Choice is a flower of original color with white beards on crimson halyards. Wonderful branched peduncle. Average flowering time.

Dawn then Dusk

Schreiner 2008

Aoun Tu Dusk

Bicolor pink and purple flower, on acidic soils acquiring a unique gray hue: unexpected and attractive. Medium late.

Edgefield Glow

Schreiner 2011

Edgefield Glow

An exceptionally bright orange flower with dark tangerine beards. This new variety of bearded irises has incomparable color and excellent growth vigor, unlike other orange forms. Mid-early.

Never Been Kissed

Blyth 2008

Never Vin

Kissed Fashionable reverse: blue top and pure white bottom. Luxurious flower of delicate color. Distinctive feature- the best corrugation to date. Mid-early.

Palace Symphony

Blyth 2007

Palace Symphony

A purple-wine flower with almost black beards and exceptional ruffles. A variety that combines best features American and Australian selection. Average flowering time.

Royal Birth

Royal 2003

Royal Burf

Creamy white with golden halyard bases. Dense texture of the flower. Abundant flowering and sustainable growth. Mid-early flowering period.

Undivided Attention

Ernst 2004

Unbiased Attention

Rich pink, warm salmon color, thicker in the center of the flower. Bright coral beards. Abundantly flowering variety. Medium late.

Warranty

T. Johnson 2004

Warranty

A huge soaring purple-black flower with a velvety texture on a tall peduncle. Mid-late flowering period.

Our grandmothers, growing garden strawberries, or strawberries, as we used to call them, did not particularly worry about mulching. But today this agricultural technique has become fundamental in achieving high quality berries and reducing crop losses. Some might say it's a hassle. But practice shows that labor costs in this case pay off handsomely. In this article we invite you to get acquainted with the nine the best materials for mulching garden strawberries.

Succulents are very diverse. Despite the fact that “little ones” have always been considered more fashionable, the range of succulents with which you can decorate modern interior, it’s worth taking a closer look. After all, colors, sizes, patterns, degree of prickliness, impact on the interior are just a few of the parameters by which you can choose them. In this article we will tell you about the five most fashionable succulents that amazingly transform modern interiors.

The Egyptians used mint as early as 1.5 thousand years BC. It has a strong aroma due to the high content of various essential oils, which are highly volatile. Today, mint is used in medicine, perfumery, cosmetology, winemaking, cooking, ornamental gardening, and the confectionery industry. In this article we will look at the most interesting varieties mint, and also tell you about the features of growing this plant in open ground.

People began growing crocuses 500 years before our era. Although the presence of these flowers in the garden is fleeting, we always look forward to the return of the harbingers of spring to next year. Crocuses are one of the earliest primroses, whose flowering begins as soon as the snow melts. However, flowering times may vary depending on the species and varieties. This article is dedicated to the earliest varieties of crocuses, which bloom in late March and early April.

Cabbage soup made from early young cabbage in beef broth is hearty, aromatic and easy to prepare. In this recipe you will learn how to cook delicious beef broth and cook light cabbage soup with this broth. Early cabbage It cooks quickly, so it is placed in the pan at the same time as other vegetables, unlike autumn cabbage, which takes a little longer to cook. Ready cabbage soup can be stored in the refrigerator for several days. Real cabbage soup turns out tastier than freshly prepared cabbage soup.

Looking at the variety of tomato varieties, it is difficult not to get confused - the choice is very wide today. Even experienced gardeners are sometimes confused by it! However, understanding the basics of selecting varieties “for yourself” is not so difficult. The main thing is to delve into the peculiarities of the culture and start experimenting. One of the easiest groups of tomatoes to grow are varieties and hybrids with limited growth. They have always been valued by those gardeners who do not have much energy and time to care for their beds.

Once very popular under the name of indoor nettle, and then forgotten by everyone, coleus today is one of the brightest garden and indoor plants. It is not for nothing that they are considered stars of the first magnitude for those who are primarily looking for non-standard colors. Easy to grow, but not so undemanding as to suit everyone, coleus require constant supervision. But if you take care of them, bushes made of velvety unique leaves will easily outshine any competitor.

Salmon backbone baked in Provençal herbs is a “supplier” of delicious pieces of fish pulp for light salad with fresh wild garlic leaves. The champignons are lightly fried in olive oil and then water it apple cider vinegar. These mushrooms are tastier than regular pickled ones, and they are better suited for baked fish. Wild garlic and fresh dill get along well in one salad, highlighting each other’s aroma. The garlicky pungency of wild garlic will permeate both the salmon flesh and mushroom pieces.

Conifer or shrubs on the site is always great, but a lot of conifers is even better. Emerald needles various shades decorates the garden at any time of the year, and phytoncides and essential oils, released by plants, not only aromatize, but also make the air cleaner. As a rule, most zoned adults coniferous plants, are considered very unpretentious trees and bushes. But young seedlings are much more capricious and require proper care and attention.

Sakura is most often associated with Japan and its culture. Picnics in the canopy flowering trees have long become an integral attribute of welcoming spring in the country rising sun. Financial and academic year here it starts on April 1, when the magnificent cherry blossoms bloom. Therefore, many significant moments in the life of the Japanese take place under the sign of their flowering. But sakura also grows well in cooler regions - certain species can be successfully grown even in Siberia.

I am very interested in analyzing how people's tastes and preferences for certain foods have changed over the centuries. What was once considered tasty and was an item of trade, lost its value over time and, conversely, new fruit crops conquered their markets. Quince has been cultivated for more than 4 thousand years! And even in the 1st century B.C. e. About 6 varieties of quince were known, and even then methods of its propagation and cultivation were described.

Delight your family and prepare themed cottage cheese cookies in the shape of Easter eggs! Your children will be happy to take part in the process - sift the flour, combine all the necessary ingredients, knead the dough and cut out intricate figures. Then they will watch with admiration as the pieces of dough turn into real ones. easter eggs, and then with the same enthusiasm they will eat them with milk or tea. How to make such original cookies for Easter, read our step by step recipe!

Among tuberous crops, there are not so many decorative deciduous favorites. And caladium is a true star among the variegated inhabitants of interiors. Not everyone can decide to own a caladium. This plant is demanding, and first of all, it requires care. But still, rumors about the extraordinary capriciousness of caladiums are never justified. Attention and care can avoid any difficulties when growing caladiums. And the plant can almost always forgive small mistakes.

We have prepared a hearty, incredibly appetizing and simply easy-to-prepare dish for you today. This sauce is one hundred percent universal, as it goes with every side dish: vegetables, pasta, or anything. Chicken and mushroom gravy will save you in moments when you don’t have time or don’t want to think too much about what to cook. Take your favorite side dish (you can do this in advance so everything is hot), add some gravy and dinner is ready! A real lifesaver.

Among the many different varieties of these popular vegetables, we will tell you about three that are distinguished by their excellent taste and relatively unpretentious conditions growing. Characteristics of the eggplant varieties “Almaz”, “Black Beauty” and “Valentina”. All eggplants have pulp medium density. In Almaz it is greenish, while in the other two it is yellowish-white. They are united by good germination and excellent yield, but at different times. Everyone's skin color and shape are different.