When caring for an orchid, it is easy to make a mistake, since this flower needs constant care, it is easier, in order to avoid problems, to do everything in a timely manner; in case of illness, orchids take quite a long time to recover. What problems do you encounter most often? – Diseases can arise, it even seemed, due to primitive – improper lighting. To grow any flowers, you need to adhere to the correct lighting, the light regime should be moderate, shade in time to avoid burns, which do not pose any particular danger, but the marks remain long enough. Under no circumstances should you spray your orchid in the sun, as a spot burn will form on the leaves. By the way, no proper watering also causes trouble, the basic rule is that it is better to water less than to over-water, especially as this has a negative effect on young sprouts; excess and stagnation of water causes rot. It is imperative to maintain moisture; if you do not take care of this, but simply water the plant, the result will be fallen leaves. Poor watering also leads to falling leaves, their dryness, very hot weather- use a fan to obtain fresh air. An important point Something to remember is that the flower cannot be in water for a long time and continuously, and if this is combined with low temperature, then swelling will certainly appear. IN winter time watering is reduced. It is necessary to avoid getting water on the leaves, this will provide salvation from rotting and pinpoint swelling. In cold winter, at low temperatures, the leaves not only become covered with white spots, but sometimes also become frostbitten (frostbitten areas require amputation). During this same period, you need to stop spraying, as it will provoke the appearance of darkened fungal spots.

Disease groups:

Such diseases in orchids can be found infrequently, this is due to the fact that the cultivation of these flowers is very scrupulous; such viruses can only be detected in special conditions, or rather in laboratories, and if they are detected, then all infected parts must be immediately destroyed. At home, people very often panic without reason and mistake ordinary waterlogging for viral diseases, however, with proper care, this is extremely unlikely. An important fact is that viruses cannot be cured, but the flower does not die from them; if the proper conditions are provided, the phalaenopsis will acquire a healthy appearance and will live and delight with its flowering for a long time.

A group of diseases that occur most often and sometimes even result in the death of the plant. Typically, fungus develops due to poor ventilation, overheating or waterlogging, and it develops at a fairly rapid pace. In turn, fungal diseases include: root rotting (the most common and common), although the whole plant suffers, only the root rots, all other affected parts dry out, and sometimes crack or change color. Tracheomycosis also belongs to the fungus; this group of diseases is distinguished by the fact that it destroys the orchid - poisoning it from the inside, through the vascular system, thereby taking away all vitality and saturating it with toxins. This group poses an extraordinary danger due to the fact that the disease cannot be detected early stages it is difficult, and in an advanced form, treatment does not make sense and the recovery process is extremely difficult to control. The main signs of tracheomycosis: the lower leaves begin to fade (possibly on one side), begin to acquire a yellowish tint, the stem, neck and roots begin to fester, gradually, the roots stop growing altogether. If all these symptoms appear simultaneously, then the disease is much easier to identify and stop, but it happens that they become visible already in advanced stages, when the flower needs urgent rehabilitation and diligent treatment. There are simply a lot of reasons for the appearance of spotting, for example: regular or false powdery mildew, rust, rot, anthracnose, septoria, stangosporosis, phyllosticosis, cercospora. If any of the listed diseases are detected, you need to know that any fungi are treated with the help of a chemical or biological systemic killing fungicide (which penetrates deep into the vascular system and is used not for the purpose of ordinary prevention, but as a direct eradicator of the fungus).

Such lesions can be encountered infrequently; the reason for their occurrence is the depletion of the plant and the penetration of bacteria through the tissues of the damaged walls. Bacterial diseases include: root rot, which quickly progresses, infects and gradually destroys the entire flower, first the roots die, and later the shoots; ten days are enough for them to completely blacken and dry out, characteristic feature the formation of rot - a specific, terrible smell, and spotting can also form on the leaves. The spots are black and brown in color, surrounded by an oily halo, their number increases at a breakneck speed. There are no special medications for treatment; tetracycline is often used. Bacteriosis is difficult to treat; it is difficult to talk about any comforting guarantees for sure. It can be difficult to distinguish a fungal pathogen from a bacterial one, so in such cases they begin to immediately use synthetic antibiotics and a fungicide.

It is imperative to take into account that the main, most the right way to protect phalaenopsis from diseases, and after - difficult treatment procedures - this is the maximum listening to everyone important rules Regarding cultivation, if mistakes are made, the orchid weakens and thereby attracts various types of infections. Basic tips that will help prevent and stop infections and diseases: strictly adhere to optimal conditions content, study the history of the flower, its needs, new orchid should always be in strict quarantine (from two weeks to a month), to be able to study all the intricacies, adapt the flower, and be able to protect itself from other (possibly infected) plants. When suspicion of a disease arises, simply keep it in dry conditions without using any fertilizers or stimulants. Pests can also appear from a poor substrate or poor-quality transplantation, improper watering, if the water is not suitable, the same applies to fertilizers, they should be used in moderation. The orchid does not tolerate drafts and dampness, mold, excessively cold air; it is undesirable to store vegetables or fruits nearby, because their contamination is not always determined immediately, and bacteria act instantly.

Orchids are grown for their beautiful, long-lasting, the most magnificent flowering, but what if everything doesn’t go according to plan? – When flowers become considerably thinner, become sluggish, or even fall off altogether, the reason is most likely stuffiness, poor lighting, dry air, drafts, low temperature or its sudden changes. Appearance dark spots or points may be associated with poor ventilation, low temperature, and the formation of rot. If there are no blooms at all, the temperature regime is disturbed.

Green plaque appears due to the formation of algae and excessively high moisture, the disease is most common among greenhouses, winter gardens, greenhouses To cure an orchid, you need to get rid of plaque using a gauze cloth, which should be lightly moistened with water; at home, potassium permanganate or ordinary potassium permanganate can be an excellent helper laundry soap.

Cracks appear as a result of unsafe relocation or transfer.

Yellowing and wilting of leaves (apical) occurs due to fusarium - excess moisture, watering, and most importantly - low temperature of the habitat. In case of Fusarium wilt, it would be helpful to reduce watering, trim the affected parts with sterile instruments, and then treat them with Fundazol.

Removing bacterial rot (depressed dark spots) consists of destroying the leaves to full, non-diseased tissue with a well-sterilized instrument; treatment can be carried out with fungicides.

Bacterial spotting, namely the formation brown spots(having a yellow/white rim) on phalaenopsis leaves is treated by isolating, removing infected parts, treating sections with activated carbon, sulfur, wood ash (any antibacterial drug; during the treatment process, it is necessary to maintain moderate contact with water.

Viruses rarely attack, but they are the most dangerous, especially if there are a lot of flowers, because they spread with lightning speed, so if darkened strokes appear on the leaves, which smoothly flow into stripes, then the flower urgently needs to be destroyed.

It is easy to protect yourself from sunburn; it will be enough: shade during the hot seasons of the year, do not spray in direct sunlight. Withered leaves are directly related to the condition of the root system, this means its putrefaction; if you inspect the roots in a timely manner, remove the damaged ones, and treat them with medications against the fungus, the condition will be normalized and the flower will return to vigorous flowering.

When the leaves are uneven, ugly and poorly colored, then it’s time to address the issue of mineral nutrition (use complex fertilizers). If damaged or broken, the aerial roots dry out; to prevent this from happening, you need to straighten the broken particle and treat it with activated carbon.

When the roots dry out for no apparent reason, then most obviously the problem lies in poor watering and humidity, respectively - it is necessary to increase the number of waterings and use a humidifier. Also, with poor watering, the roots may dry out while in the substrate; in this case, the container with the plant should be placed in warm water Thus, healthy roots will immediately be saturated with moisture and acquire a pleasant green color. However, watering needs to be clearly planned and clearly understood that excess water will lead to rotting of the root system; initially, the roots will become spotted, and after a while they will begin to wrinkle and become soft and brown. The right solution for preserving phalaenopsis is: moderate watering, timely replanting, processing.

Pests and methods of their destruction

- a common insect, this small pest is dangerous due to its columnar settlements, its shape is similar to a drop, the color of the aphid is green, yellow, black.

- miniature elongated flies with wings, spread white or transparent larvae, they spoil the youngest and most unprotected particles of the orchid, the flower becomes covered with spots, stripes, bumps, and then falls off. The situation has two ways out: spray with insecticides or use laundry soap several times a week (this will help eliminate the larvae).

- an insect that looks like cotton wool in appearance, settles on the leaves and sucks out the juice, they become yellowish and lethargic. Treatment with vodka, alcohol and, of course, Aktara will help; the cleansing procedure must be carried out a couple of times within two weeks.

- are eliminated quickly, these are peculiar growths that are characterized by stickiness; they are treated with vodka, alcohol, soap; if they are present, you need to increase the humidity.

Spider mite has a red color, appears at low humidity, moves slowly, due to the fault of this pest, plaque forms and the leaves die. Treatment with water and acaricides will help in the fight; in order to avoid encounters with mites, you need to: protect the orchid from the slightest winds, drafts, spray with lukewarm water, keep new plants in quarantine for a certain period.

Today, buying an orchid is not a problem, the problem is finding competent information about its further maintenance in home culture. The main and accessible “source of knowledge” for almost everyone is the Internet. Having registered on the first flower forum we come across, we read reviews and advice from the same amateurs as ourselves, and we can only determine whose advice is correct and whose is wrong only over time based on our own mistakes. As a rule, diseases of orchids arise due to improper care and the leaves of plants signal this to us first of all.

Let's look at some diseases of orchids and bugs due to improper care.

1.Orchid diseases due to improper lighting. Burns.

Probably the most main role in cultivation indoor flowers The lighting is playing in the apartment. Orchid diseases very often arise precisely because of improperly selected lighting. Orchids are divided into two groups: shade-tolerant and light-loving.

Our first mistake is that when buying an orchid, we don’t think about which group the plant we like belongs to and whether we can provide it with proper lighting at home. Light-loving orchids include Vandas, Cattleyas, Lelias, Cymbidiums, Angrecums and many others, as well as all hybrids based on the listed species. In a light-loving orchid, due to lack of light, new leaves become smaller, weak, deformed growths develop, which will not form a full-fledged, healthy bulb and, accordingly, will not please with their flowering in the future. Phalaenopsis and Cambria, on the contrary, can be grown on northern and north-eastern windows.

Photo No. 1 Weak, elongated growths. Conclusion - not enough light.

Moreover, in orchids that have variegated forms, the color fades over time, and no matter how hard you feed and water it, sooner or later the orchid will lose its healthy appearance and will soon die. Due to lack of lighting, plants become more vulnerable and are more easily susceptible to diseases.

In turn, I would like to draw your attention to the fact that a light-loving plant does not mean that it can tolerate direct sunlight. You need to start accustoming your orchid to the spring sun gradually. In March, orchids on southern and south-eastern windows in the first half of the day need to be shaded, otherwise, after cloudy winter days, plants that are not accustomed to the bright sun will receive severe burns. Over time, the plant will adapt to brighter sun and will not need additional shading; it will be enough to lower the curtain only at noon.

Photo No. 2. Consequence of a burn. Even a sun-loving plant like Vanda may experience burns if the plant is not used to being in the midday sun.

Photo No. 3. General picture of burns on the Vanda orchid.

As we already discussed above, without a sufficient amount of light, plants cannot develop normally, so most gardeners install additional artificial lighting. If you choose the wrong height between the lamp and the plant (at least from the last growing leaf, the height should be 20-30 cm), then literally the next day the orchids will receive thermal burns. In addition, incandescent lamps emit heat, which, especially in the hot season, negatively affects the development of orchids. Thermal burns will dry out in the future and will not particularly harm the plant, but the burn stains will remain. Therefore, for such purposes, it is necessary to choose new generation lamps and maintain the height of the lamp placement.

Photo No. 4. Thermal burn (from touching a fluorescent lamp)

A burn should not be confused with a tan; a tan will not harm the plant, but it is a signal that the plant should be shaded, because A tan may be followed by a burn.

Photo No. 5. Tanning on Cattleya's bulb.

Orchids are not sprayed in the sun, because... droplets of water can act as a lens and the plant will receive pinpoint burns.

Photo No. 6. Burns on Phalaenopsis flowers.

2. The main mistakes when watering and their subsequent diseases.

Each genus and type of orchid requires special watering rules. But I would like to draw your attention to the fact that each apartment has its own microclimate, so no one can give definite advice on what order to water. You need to find a middle ground in your own conditions and try to understand the plant: when it needs to be watered, and when to refrain from watering.
Due to excessive watering, the plant suffers more than from untimely watering. If for some reason the orchid has not been watered for a long time, then it is easier to water it than to regrow rotted roots due to frequent watering.

Photo No. 7. Consequences of excessive watering of Lycaste.

Due to excess moisture, the bulb rotted and the rot spread to the young growths. In this case, the bulb is soft to the touch, so the plant can be thrown away entirely; the growth cannot be saved.

Photo No. 8. This is what a Bulbophyllum leaf that has fallen off due to excessive watering looks like.

Photo No. 9. Rotten root of Phalaenopsis (Phalaenopsis).

The main rule in caring for Phalaenopsis is that the roots must dry out between waterings.

Photo No. 10. Leaves lose turgor and fall off due to rotted roots.

This is what the leaves of Paphiopedilum look like due to unregulated watering. This type absolutely cannot withstand complete drying of the root and lost turgor Unfortunately, it does not restore leaves.

Photo No. 10.a. Damage to Paphiopedilum tissue due to improper watering.

There are types of orchids that prefer high humidity, but in no case should air humidity be confused with frequent watering. If we do not increase the air humidity in the room, but increase the frequency of watering, then in a maximum of a month we will see the following picture.

Photo No. 11. Low indoor humidity and frequent watering have led to the leaves losing turgor and gradually dying off in favor of the plant itself.

Some types of orchids in summer time years react quite painfully to untimely watering. The leaves seem to become dehydrated and wither, lose turgor, eventually dropping the bottom row one by one. Therefore, during the hot season, you need to ensure timely watering and high humidity in the room where the orchids are located. At high temperatures and humidity, there must be good air ventilation. It is advisable to turn on the fan during the hottest hours of the day (from 12.00 to 15.00) and ventilate the room well.

Photo No. 12. Lack of moisture, Cattleya leaves lose turgor.

3. Edema.

In nature, there is such a thing as edema. Orchid diseases such as swelling appear due to prolonged contact with water. For example, they soaked a plant while watering it and accidentally forgot about it for a day. Very important factor is the temperature of the room in which the plants are located. If the temperature drops to +15/+17C, then watering at such temperatures is reduced, because at low temperatures it is easier to get bacterial and fungal diseases. If the room is cool, then after abundant watering the plant can also get swelling and other orchid diseases. It is important to know that in the cool season (autumn, winter, early spring) we reduce watering and do not place plants on a cold windowsill. If wet spots appear, they urgently need to be removed, because they grow very quickly and the entire plant as a whole can rot.

Photo No. 13. Swelling of Phalaenopsis leaves due to prolonged contact with water.

Photo No. 14. Spot swelling on Phalaenopsis leaves due to unregulated watering.

Photo No. 15. Results of improper watering in the cold season of Aerangis.

Photo No. 16. The results of frequent watering of the Vanilla orchid in the cold season.

4.Problems due to low temperatures.

During the cold season, it is advisable to refrain from purchasing orchids or to pack them carefully during transportation, otherwise the plant will get frostbite and the spots will have to be cut down to living tissue, because they cannot be restored.

Photo No. 17. Phalaenopsis frostbite.

Photo No. 18. Frostbite of Phalaenopsis in the cold season when the room is ventilated.

Orchids are not sprayed in the cool season, when the room temperature is low and air ventilation is poor. This can cause dark spots of fungal origin to appear on the flowers.

Photo No. 19. Consequence of spraying in the cool season.

5. Fungal diseases of orchids.

Often when buying an orchid, we can see barely noticeable “tubercles”. They can be located both on the leaves and on the trunk (neck) of the plant. Most often this is a Phalaenopsis disease. Each tubercle contains small myceliums containing a microfungus invisible to the naked eye. It is better not to open such tubercles so that invisible fungal spores do not scatter throughout the entire collection of orchids that are located in the room with the source of the mycelium carrier. You can play it safe and treat the tubercles with a fungicide, or you can cut the leaf and lose the problem forever.

Photo No. 20. Mycelium tubercles on Phalaenopsis leaves.

Photo No. 21. Mycelium.

6.Virus.

Orchids, like people, suffer from viral diseases. Plants with viral diseases are disposed of. Unfortunately, the orchid does not tolerate diseases such as the virus - there are no treatment methods. The virus can hide for a long time and not manifest itself in any way, but during watering (in a common basin) it can settle on all orchids that were directly involved in watering. The virus is also transmitted when plants are processed with sharp instruments. If favorable conditions appear for the development of the virus, it will become active and then begin to “dance” throughout the entire collection and all plants without exception will need to be destroyed. A fertile ground for a virus outbreak is any stress, for example, a sharp decrease (increase) in temperature or moving to a new room with radically different environmental conditions (temperature, humidity, etc.). If you notice that a plant suspected of having a virus has appeared in your collection, it must be immediately isolated from others and treated with at least an antibiotic wide range action and then any fungicide. Sometimes the virus does not manifest itself at all and can only be detected after the plant has flourished. The color and shape of the flower will differ from the norm.

Photo No. 22. The virus has a ring shape (in the form of a spot).

Photo No. 23. The photo shows a Phalaenopsis leaf infected with a virus.

Photo No. 24. The photo shows a Phalaenopsis leaf infected with a virus, on which a fungus has settled on top.

7.Natural aging of orchids.

If you notice that the bottom leaf of an orchid is turning yellow, then you should not panic; you need to observe the plant for a while. Sometimes the death of the lower row of leaves is normal, because... each plant has its own life cycle, incl. for an orchid, disease has nothing to do with it. New ones will grow to replace those that have fallen away.

Photo No. 25. Natural aging of a Phalaenopsis leaf.

With natural wilting, the leaf begins to die not from the neck of the plant, but almost from the edge of the leaf. Gradually the yellowness moves along the leaf to the base (neck), dries out and falls off. You don’t need to remove the leaf yourself; you need to wait for the leaf to dry out and fall off.

Photo No. 26. The beginning of the process of dying of the lower leaf.

In Phalaenopsis, leaf death is often observed due to young roots that have hatched; they seem to push out the leaf and form in their place.

Photo No. 27. The root breaks through the leaf and subsequently the leaf will dry out.

8.Orchid. The disease is neck rot.

Rot from inside the neck of an orchid is a rather insidious thing. No matter how you turn the plant, you won’t see rot. The reason is that the putrefactive process is located in the tissues of the plant inside the neck itself. After some time, we observe the following picture: the leaves begin to turn yellow from the neck and fall off, then the orchid disassembles like a construction set. Unfortunately, in this situation it is not possible to help the plant. Rot can begin to develop for several reasons: frequent watering, prolonged contact of the orchid roots with water, the roots do not dry out between waterings, watering at low room temperatures.

Photo No. 28. Phalaenopsis neck rot (top view).

Photo No. 29. Phalaenopsis neck rot (side view).

Photo No. 30. Consequences of Phalaenopsis neck rot.

9. Overdose of fertilizer and poor water quality.

Using the example of Eurychone rothschildiana (photo No. 31), it is clear that the plant is healthy, it is comfortable, it is successfully developing, growing roots (the tips of the roots are green). After treating a plant with fertilizers with an incorrectly selected dosage (this applies to any fertilizer without exception), inhibition begins in the development process. The roots “pupate” and stop growing, the leaves lose turgor and wither. The plant goes into stupor. Lack of root growth may indicate an incorrectly selected fertilizer concentration. Recommendations for use are often described in detail specifically for capricious beauties - orchids - use this information.

Dead root tips (photo no. 32) are the first signs to sound the alarm. The leaves do not just turn yellow, but have a brownish tint, which indicates that the roots were burned during the feeding process. If measures are not taken in time, the plant may die. In this case, first of all, you need to give all plants a hot shower once a week. The shower helps flush out accumulated salts in the substrate and also tones the growth of orchids, simulating the warm torrential downpours of their natural habitat.

Photo No. 31. Eurychone rothschildiana healthy growth process.

Photo No. 32. Eurychone rothschildiana is on the verge of extinction.

10. Why is poor indoor air ventilation dangerous for orchids?

One of the main factors in the absence of disease in orchids in indoor culture is air ventilation. Everyone knows that in their natural habitat, epiphytes live high in trees, blown by the winds. Most of them grow in tropical and equatorial regions. At the equator it is constantly warm and humid, and it rains very often. In nature there are morning dews and fogs. Orchids are accustomed to humid climates. At home we try to get as close as possible to natural conditions(raise the air humidity, increase the temperature to the desired level, arrange a warm shower, simulating tropical downpours), but we forget about the most important thing - air aeration. IN warm time every year our apartments and loggias heat up to high temperatures. Spraying your " winter Garden“, we increase the air humidity and leave for work with a fulfilled sense of duty. What is happening indoors at this time? At high temperatures and humidity, there is a possibility of orchid diseases - fungal and bacterial diseases. With bacterial diseases, watery spots appear (photo No. 33), which spread very quickly throughout the plant, in some cases the plant dies within a few days.

Photo No. 33. Wet rot on young leaf Phalaenopsis.

As a rule, there are no special drugs; broad-spectrum antibiotics help.
Also, high temperatures make it difficult for the plant to breathe, which is especially acute for plants. root system. Orchid roots overheat and are not able to work at full capacity. The plant does not receive required quantity moisture and begins to lose turgor (photo No. 35). With poor air ventilation and high humidity, moisture after watering or showering can stagnate in the axils of plants (photo No. 34) and stimulate putrefactive processes.
Conclusion. At high temperatures And excess humidity You need to ventilate the room more often, do not place plants too close to each other, and make sure that moisture does not remain on the leaves for a long time. Plants need to be watered and sprayed only in the first half of the day. If possible, you can install a fan in a room with a large accumulation and crowding of flowers (photo No. 37) and turn it on at least during the hottest hours. This will help avoid many problems and various types of diseases.

Photo No. 34. Stagnation of moisture during the development of the cover due to poor air ventilation.

Photo No. 35. Root overheating. Leaves lose turgor.

Photo No. 36. During the hottest time, turn on the fan and ventilate the room.

Good luck! And let your orchid not know the disease, but only delight you with its beautiful flowering!

We are very grateful to the Kyiv Orchid Lovers Club for their help in preparing the material!

The house orchid, or as scientists call it - Phalaenopsis, can rightfully be called one of the most tenacious, but demanding of care, window plants. It requires a minimum of effort, but in return you will receive gratitude in the form of abundant flowering for about six months, or even more. However, no matter how tenacious home orchids are, even they can catch the disease and begin to fade.

Orchid Phalaenopsis diseases at home - photo

But how to recognize orchid disease at an early stage, or better yet, prevent its occurrence altogether? This article is devoted to the answers to these questions.

Prevention of Phalaenopsis diseases

Prevention should begin at the very moment when the flower first appeared in your apartment. So, in your home there is such a wonderful living decoration as home orchid Phalaenopsis. It doesn’t matter at all how the green pet was obtained, whether you took it from friends or bought it in flower shop, whether this is the only new building, or just part of a huge greenhouse, the rules are the same for all cases: water treatments and a month's quarantine.

There is no other way, because in addition to luxurious and unpretentious decoration, you can also acquire various uninvited guests, such as various harmful fungi, insects, or bacteria that can threaten not only the orchid itself, but also all your plants, or even family members.

Orchid pests and their treatment

It is very easy to get rid of insects, you just need to place the substrate in a container with water for about an hour, after this time, all the pests of the orchid will float to the surface, even those that were initially hidden from view. But this method is not a panacea, and to be sure that nothing is left, you should place the phalaenopsis separately from other plants and observe for a month.

Signs of illness

Symptoms of the disease can be very different, but the most common are changes such as yellowing, rotting, or cracking of foliage; damage to the root system - for good reason, the roots should be strong enough and have a greenish or silver color, and the plant itself should be perfectly held in the substrate. However, if the root is brownish-brown in color, is dry and breaks easily, then it is necessary to take emergency measures to treat the plant.

Orchid - root treatment

First you need to very carefully free the roots of the flower from the substrate. After which, having previously disinfected the tools with alcohol, it is necessary to cut off all dead tissue in the root system.

Amputation sites should be treated activated carbon, in powder form.

It is also advisable to remove leaves occupied by infection, of course, if they are not the last ones.

If you plan to use old soil to plant an orchid, be sure to boil it and wait until it cools down to room temperature. It is better to put it in the pot while still wet. While you are busy preparing the soil, the roots of the flower itself should be kept in plastic bag filled with carbon dioxide. When the flower takes its place permanent place, it should not be watered until the substrate is completely dry, which usually takes about ten to fourteen days.

Video: Treatment of phalaenopsis orchid roots

Phalaenopsis orchid leaf diseases

Phalaenopsis is very demanding special conditions plant maintenance. If phalaenopsis is not properly cared for, the leaves may begin to turn yellow. There are many reasons for these yellowings, which we will now consider.

Light-related leaf diseases

First of all, we will look at the lighting problem. The leaves of the phalaenopsis orchid can turn yellow either from a lack of light or from an excess. It is better to illuminate the plant with bright, diffused light. Do not place phalaenopsis in the back of the room or in the scorching midday sun. Due to lack of light, the leaves of the plant grow narrower and smaller, and the stem becomes elongated.

From an excess of light, the leaves will burn and have a pale color, they may turn yellow and become lethargic and rough. Optimizing lighting or treating leaves with different preparations can stop leaf dying. Unfortunately, this will not restore the old leaves, but the new ones will grow strong and green.

Aging of the lower leaves of an orchid

The second reason we will consider is the natural aging of the lower leaves. Typically, one orchid leaf has a life cycle of 1 to 5 years, depending on the type of phalaenopsis. When the life cycle of a leaf ends, it simply dies, while its tips turn yellow towards the base and, when exhausted, dry out. Another reason for the dying off of leaves is the lack of strength to create new roots in phalaenopsis.

Phalaenopsis orchid - lower leaves turn yellow

In this case, the plant begins to feed on substances from lower leaves and, thereby, forming new roots. If the leaves have died naturally, there is no need to hastily remove the yellow leaves. It is necessary to allow the orchid to collect all the useful substances and microelements from it. When this happens, the dead leaf will move away from the orchid on its own, without additional help.

The leaves are turning yellow

A common problem from which the leaves of the phalaenopsis plant may suffer is insufficient or overwatering. As a rule, the leaves begin to turn yellow from below and have all the usual signs that are characteristic of improper watering.

Phalaenopsis orchid - leaves turn yellow

If the plants are watered too often, the leaves become soft, the roots darken and black spots appear on the stem. But, excessive watering threatens the death of the entire plant and, most likely, it will need to be revived. Also, if you do not water the orchid enough, the roots will dry out and become brittle, and the leaves on the orchid will wrinkle.

Diseases of Phalaenopsis from feeding

Let's move on to the problems of feeding. Phalaenopsis is sensitive to different types fertilizing You can give the plant too large doses of fertilizer or not feed it for a long time, and soon yellow leaves will begin to appear on your phalaenopsis, and the roots will turn black, which worsens the condition of the plant.

This is not the biggest problem, since the turgor of the leaves is not disturbed, but these leaves will not recover. You need to properly optimize nutrition for your plant. If you overdo it with fertilizer, you will need to completely replace the substrate.

Other diseases and pests

Let's consider the problems of diseases, pests and hypothermia. Orchid leaves can turn yellow from various infectious and fungal diseases. Most often, such problems are treated with special medications.

Pests pose a significant threat, such as:

• spider mites;
• mealyworms.

As with diseases, pests will need to be removed using third-party means. Phalaenopsis, like other plants, loves warmth. If the plant does not receive enough heat and is overcooled, the leaves may also turn yellow.

Phalaenopsis diseases and pests - photos

Even a few hours of leaving the plant in a cold place is enough and it will begin to turn yellow. In this case, treatment will not be able to restore the leaves, but will help prevent the spread yellow spots on phalaenopsis. So choose the temperature of the room where the plant will be kept wisely.

Video: Orchid pest control

Scale insects, mites, scale insects, and aphids are dangerous tenants of our plants that urgently need to be gotten rid of.

Conclusion

In this article, we looked at the most common reasons why the leaves of a phalaenopsis orchid may turn yellow. Monitor the temperature, lighting, feeding and watering, and your orchid will be healthy and strong.

The appearance of a plant always reflects its internal state, therefore, if an orchid’s leaves turn black, you need to pay attention to the flower, its health, and reconsider its care. Problems may be associated with the following situations: sun or heat burn, fusarium wilt caused by pathogens Fusarium solani, oxysporum, wet bacterial rot, stagnation of water in the leaf axils, black spot (phyllosticosis), septoria, bacterial spot, fungal (Exserohium rostratum, Bipolaris sorokiniana, setariae), viral (Cymbidium mosaic virus) infections.

Causes and diseases

At home, when the leaves of an orchid turn black, the diagnosis is made by the grower himself. This is easy to do by comparing the symptoms. Additionally, there may be a delay in flower growth, loss of greenery, and tissue necrosis. Stains may be different sizes, type: dots, veins, depressions, thin veiny or thick fleshy depending on the type of orchid, dry and wet, first turn yellow or immediately appear black.

Heat and sunburn

On phalaenopsis, heat burn and solar burn are similar. Occurs from jets of hot air from a fan heater or batteries. They look like a black spot framed by a yellow stripe. It is impossible to cure the plant; the leaf itself, when it ages naturally, will fall off. Orchid leaves also turn white, brown, or black with spots from sunburn, forming depressions. Remember that even the most heat-loving exotic plants afraid of direct sunlight, therefore, from May to October they need to be shaded.

Phyllosticosis, fusarium

A disease caused by pathogenic bacteria, which appears on greenery as dark spots in Oncidiums and Cymbidiums. Similar to burns, but tend to grow larger. Fusarium wilt is characterized by depressed dark spots, a kind of blistering of the tissues, their subsequent crumbling, when only a black mesh remains, and ultimately the fall of the greenery. A situation in which the orchid's leaves turn black and yellow is caused by frequent watering, low temperature conditions, peat content, polystyrene foam in the pot, soil salinity.

Fungal infections

IN wild conditions infections are transferred from trees; pathogens can enter with plants illegally exported from Asia. Often found on Dendrobiums, they can be dangerous to humans. At first, the spots of the fungus Exserohilum rostratum are dark with a yellow rim, after which the center dries out, turns white or has holes. If the pathogen is Bipolaris, the orchid's leaves turn black in small specks, without merging into one large one. They definitely increase their number on the flower. Are being treated fungal diseases immediate removal of affected areas, isolation from other plants, and treatment with fungicides.

Viral infections, septoria

In case of Septoria, the pathogen Septoria selenophomoides most often affects Oncidium, Lelia, Cattleya, Cymbidium. The spots initially have a wet appearance, then darken, acquiring a brown, black tint, are pressed in, and a yellow edging appears. Externally similar to bacterial spotting. It can also be treated with fungicides; it is necessary to remove diseased shoots and disinfect the cuts. On Cymbidium, during a viral infection with Cymbidium mosaic virus, the orchid leaves turn yellow and black, and tissue necrosis occurs. Same thing with Tobacco Mosaic Virus on Cattleya, Oncidium. The yellow edging may be absent or clearly visible. Treatment of such viruses is impossible; flowers should be thrown away.

Very often due to improper care The leaves of the plant turn black, after which they fall off, and the blackness spreads further.

In order not to destroy the plant, it is worth taking care of his treatment.

This article will help you deal with possible reasons blackening of the leaves of the plant and give recommendations for treatment.

Black spots appear on the leaves, the tips of the leaves may turn black and soon the leaf loses turgor. If no action is taken, the leaf dries out at the base and dies. after treatment they do not disappear, but the disease does not spread to the rest of the flower.

The leaves turn black from various diseases, and the blackness looks different:

• Necrosis individual parts of the sheet;
• Brown spots irregular shape and size;
• watery character;
• Black veining and tips leaf plate;
• Black at the base of the leaf.

Why do orchid leaves turn black?

If black spots appear on the plant, you need to find out the reason for their appearance in order to save your flower. The disease can affect any varieties of orchids (, etc.). To do this, the gardener needs to carefully examine the leaves of the plant.

Unfavorable conditions of detention

Most often, blackness is caused by improper maintenance, namely the leaves begin to rot. Blackness also occurs if indoors:

1. Very dry.
2. High humidity at low air temperatures.
3. Overheating in summer when the temperature environment above 30 degrees.
4. At hypothermia in the cold season, since temperatures below 16 degrees cause frostbite.
5. At infection flower by mite.

If the cause of the stains is improper care, you need to urgently change conditions of detention and treat the plant.

IMPORTANT! If a flower has not been properly cared for for a long time, this can lead to bacterial and fungal diseases. In this case, the treatment will take longer.

Irrigation regime violations

IMPORTANT! When treating a plant, it is quarantined and after 2 treatments it is kept for at least 2 weeks.

Hypothermia of a flower

When , then black weeping spots appear on its plates. You need to get rid of them by cutting off the affected part of the leaf.

If the leaf is completely affected, it is removed by cutting the tip of the sheet in the middle and pulling them in different directions. This method ensures that everything is removed from the base of the plant.

You can supercool:

• Transporting a flower in the cold season without proper insulation;
• Containing a flower in cold room for him.

IMPORTANT! In order not to treat, it is necessary to prevent hypothermia.

Bacterial and viral infection

All three diseases described below are caused by bacteria or viruses that may appear as a result of improper care. First of all, the plant must be removed away from others, since these diseases are contagious.

Fusarium

Fungal disease, which occurs with the help of Fusarium fungal spores. The spot on the leaf will be slightly convex, after which the leaves in the affected areas crumble into dust.

Often mushrooms appear due to frequent excessive flooding. Therefore, proper watering will guarantee the absence of this disease.

Fusarium orchid blight.

Septoria

Carries diseases bacteria Septoria selenophomoides. In this case, the spots are wet at first, and then dry out and become black.

If you do not start treatment, the number of spots increases due to the proliferation of bacteria and they merge into one black spot with a yellow dry border.

Septoria.

Black spot

This viral disease , which can be determined by various black spots, stripes and dots. The disease spreads quickly and it is necessary not only to remove the plant to the quarantine zone, but also to cut off the damaged leaves.

It develops if the room temperature is elevated and high humidity. Plus the lack of fresh air.

Black mosaic

A viral disease that can be identified by black spots that subsequently perforate. A flower can get this disease through mechanical injury. Harmful insects that carry this virus themselves can also help with this.

Treatment methods

If any black spots are detected, you need to diagnose them and begin treatment. The sooner treatment is started, the greater the plant’s chances of recovery.

Isolation and compliance with plant care rules

First of all, damaged the plant must be removed to the quarantine zone, since his disease can spread to nearby specimens.

The sooner the flower is quarantined, the more likely it is that other flowers will not get infected.

After that , even if it is a long-awaited flowering. The orchid has no time for this now; it needs strength to recover after treatment.

If the cause of the disease is, they should be identified and processed appropriate chemical preparation.

If it is a fungal disease, then it is treated with preparations containing copper. At the same time, watering is reduced and it should be consistently warm.

Determining the cause of the disease

To diagnose diseases, you need to know what they look like.

Pruning flower stalks

When a disease is detected you need to remove the peduncle, even if it is important for the grower. The plant may not be able to maintain flowering and die. This must be done according to all the rules.

A flower branch is cut with pruning shears, well processed in alcohol. The secateurs make sharp cuts, in which the wounds heal quickly. Sometimes an orchid has a hollow peduncle, and to prevent it from rotting, the cut is treated with garden varnish. It can be purchased at garden centers.

Trimming orchid flower stalks must be done according to the rules.

Treatment with anti-pest drugs

Suitable for every pest found. Actellik is a drug that helps against almost all harmful insects, which can be found on an orchid.

The drug is very toxic and is only used outdoors so as not to harm yourself and animals. For some pests, one treatment with the drug will be enough, while others will need to be treated at least 3 times. You can get rid of the scale insect only by removing it with your hands, and after that you can spray it with the appropriate preparation.

IMPORTANT! The earlier the pest is noticed, the greater the chance of removing it from the plant.

Actellik preparation for pest control.

Trimming the sheet plate if the damage is significant

If the entire leaf is affected or the damage occupies a significant part, better leaf not to cut, but remove it completely. To do this, make a small cut from the outer edge of the sheet and stretch the 2 halves in different directions.

This removal method allows you to remove the blackened leaf completely without any residual covering. It is still better to treat the junction of the leaf with the trunk with charcoal. If the leaf turns black at the edge, then it is cut off with sharp scissors and the cut edge is treated with an antiseptic.

What to do if fungal diseases are detected?

To prevent the fungal disease from multiplying throughout the bush, you need to stop watering, reduce humidity. Then purchase a fungicide containing copper oxide and treat the flower as written in the instructions on the package.

You can also do this for the sake of prevention, because if fungal spores get into the middle of the plant, they may not be removed at all, and the plant will be constantly in the stage of infection, which will lead to its death

Prevention measures

Disease prevention is, first of all, properly organized plant care. How cultivation conditions are more close to the conditions of its homeland, the more likely the flower is to turn into a large bush with beautiful branches of flowers.

If the disease is detected in a short time, it will cause virtually no harm to the plant, and it will quickly recover.