Try making a beautiful wooden model of a sailboat and join a new hobby!

Making a ship model is a pleasure, relaxation after the bustle of the city, lively and warm wood promotes calm. Here you will get satisfaction from acquiring new skills and techniques for making a ship model and great pride from the final result. Surely beautiful and large wooden ship models will remain your family heirloom and will be passed on to your grandchildren.
We often receive the question: “Where to start, which ship model to choose, which company is better, what tools are needed to make ship models of different levels of complexity.” Of course, it is impossible to answer these questions comprehensively and accurately; much is purely individual, depending on your previous experience and skills, on the already accumulated range of tools, and, ultimately, on financial and time capabilities.
However, you can find partial answers to these questions in articles and reviews:

• Models from the set. A series of articles on construction for beginners.
• HMS Bounty. Mamoli model - a story about the production of the first model.

And, of course, our Bible:

Even if you've never built a model ship before, you can get started with this amazing hobby thanks to our sailboat model offerings. Each kit contains all the necessary parts, drawings and instructions that have gone through many years of research, design and development to become a model ship kit. In addition to the great and best choice wooden ship model kits at the lowest prices, we offer everything that will give you pleasure when making a ship model. We offer a wide variety of hand and power tools, thousands of elements to complete your ship model and all the necessary materials to give the model a finished look.

It's not scary, it's much easier than you think!

Do you think making a ship model is too difficult for you? Let me assure you that many of our respected authors, “tarred aces,” began with the same doubts and questions. Start with one of the simple ship models.
Here we have collected wooden ship models that are perfect for the role of the first model:
Wooden ship models from OCCRE: great prices, clear instructions with illustrations. We have made Russian instructions for almost every ship model.

In modeling, plywood is the most popular material. This is due to high quality indicators, as well as ease of operation. Plywood sheets are very easy to cut and quite easy to process. Using suitable scheme(drawing), you can make ships from plywood with your own hands.

Plywood is a versatile material that is easy to cut and process. in various ways, therefore, it is recommended to begin your acquaintance with modeling with plywood patterns.

Designing a ship yourself is quite an interesting activity. But in order to start performing complex models, you need to practice on easier ones.

Materials and tools

To create patterns from stucco on board a ship, you need to prepare your own composition from which you can form reliefs. For the solution, you need to prepare the following tools and materials:

• wood dust;
• PVA glue (on average, one ship model can take about half a liter of glue);
• plasticine for creating small irregularities and patterns;

Materials and tools that are used during ship modeling:

Birch plywood will ensure a minimum number of chips when sawing.

• plywood of the required thickness;
• superglue;
• sandpaper for surface treatment;
• nylon thread;
• jigsaw for cutting out parts;
• construction knife;
• wood for the mast. It is better to use pine, as it is much easier to process;
• dye;
• small brushes;
• Chinese chopsticks;
• fabric for sails;
• thread;
• pencil ruler.

The wood for modeling should be soft, not fibrous. The most popular options are cedar, linden, and walnut. All wooden blanks must be perfectly smooth, without knots or damage. It can be used as additional element for creating decorative parts. Wood can also be used to create the main elements of the model, such as the deck and hull.

Plywood is the most popular material in modeling. In areas such as modeling, birch or balsa plywood is most often used. This is due to the fact that these types of wood practically do not chip during sawing. To make a boat from plywood, you need to use sheets with a thickness of 0.8-2 mm.

A simple diagram of a plywood ship model.

Veneer – sheet material, very thin, made from valuable wood. In most cases, veneer is used as facing material. It is used to paste over products that are made from inexpensive material.

Fastening elements will not only perform the main task of holding parts together, but also play a decorative role. To create a model of a boat, you need to prepare thin chains (several sizes can be used), laces, threads, copper or brass nails. In order to transfer a drawing from sheet to plywood, it is best to use tracing paper and a pencil. This will make the drawing more detailed. To fasten the plywood parts together, you must use glue. Fine detailing can be made using metal casting, using polymer clay or make your own solution from wood dust and PVA glue. After complete drying, this mass is very durable and can be painted in the desired color.

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Preparatory work

If you are modeling a plywood ship for the first time, it is recommended to purchase kits in which all the parts have already been cut out and processed. But its cost can sometimes be quite high. Therefore, with great desire and effort, experience can be gained in the process of assembling your ship. Modeling, like other types of work, necessarily begins with the preparatory stage. The first thing you need to start with is what kind of ship you will model. To begin with, it is worth looking at various drawings and finished works, this will make choosing a model much easier.

Having studied the drawing in full, it is worth checking the presence of all necessary materials and tools to get the job done. Modeling ships is a piece of jewelry. It requires a lot of time and perseverance.

At the preparatory stage, it is necessary to make paper or cardboard templates of all parts. After that, they are all transferred to plywood. On this preparatory stage work can be considered completed.

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Manufacturing of parts

In order to make all the parts, cut them out of plywood sheet, you must use the appropriate tool. For work you can use manual jigsaw, but, if possible, it is better to use the electric model option. Using the second option will significantly reduce the time for manufacturing all elements. This is especially true for the most small parts.

The sawn blanks are processed with a file, removing chips and burrs.

In order to cut out a part, a hole is made in the plywood into which a jigsaw file is placed. It is necessary to cut out all the details very carefully, while respecting all contour boundaries, since inaccurately cut parts can later spoil appearance the entire ship. Each sawn workpiece must be processed with a file from the ends. During this cleaning process, it is necessary to remove a small part of the chamfer where chips and burrs have formed. When cutting, this moment cannot be avoided.

You need to assemble the ship when all the parts are cut out and the ends are processed. This will allow you to study assembly work without being distracted by cutting out missing parts.

The element of water has always attracted desperate travelers, brave sailors and fearless pirates. Sailing on the waves and watching new horizons open up before you is the most amazing thing that can happen in life. In order to set sail, you need to build a ship with your own hands. Even if it is not as huge as the Titanic, the main thing is that you created it yourself.

Everyone probably has (or had) a favorite thing that they don’t mind devoting free time. Some people have a collection of stamps, some are into photography, some like to cook, knit, draw,... and so on, you can’t list everything.
One of my favorite things, or, more simply put, hobbies, is. This news is dedicated to them.

After this, you can leave the “skeleton” to dry and start covering the deck.
Everything is not as simple as it seems from the outside - the covering boards must be laid in a certain pattern. Of course, you can just lay long planks, but it will look quite rough...

After this, the decks (or deck, if there is only one) are placed in their proper place and the first hull begins. Typically, a ship model is covered twice - the first skin is rough, it is made of very soft wood.
One by one, the planks are attached to the “skeleton” using glue and small nails, which will be removed when the glue dries.

The work is delicate, the planks do not always bend easily and can break.

After painstaking work, the entire body is covered with the first layer!

Now you need to close the gaps between the planks and sand them properly.

Then you can proceed to the front cladding. You need to be extremely careful with it - the planks are much thinner than rough ones and break easily.

The technology is the same - glue and nails.

You can imagine the amount of work (the ship in the photo, Victory, is 1300 mm long...)...

I described the assembly of the HMS Victory model in 17 reviews, everyone who wants to read it is welcome!

And this is a model of probably the most famous ship in the world - the Santa Maria (in the process of being assembled, of course).

After the second skin is finished and sanded, everything can be varnished. And then we’ll take care of the deck - ladders, boats, hatches,...
Almost all parts are made of wood and brass. There is no plastic at all.

Exterior detailing is no less important.
Well, after the hull is completed, we proceed to the rigging.
But before that you need to install masts and yards.

Each knot is tied by hand (the same sea knots :-).
And these knots are simply countless!
The sails must be pre-stitched. At Santa Maria they still needed to be painted.

If the set does not include a stand, then here you can give free rein to your imagination.
For example, I made a stand for Santa Maria from a piece of oak parquet.

And only when the very last knot is tied can the ship be considered ready!
You can proudly put it in the most visible place and with an enthusiastic “Wow!” guests, looking down, say “Yes, I did it myself...”.

Wooden ships and sailboats

For many, prefabricated ship models are something more than an ordinary hobby and an interesting activity. This is, first of all, an opportunity for self-expression, a way to realize your talents and, at the same time, to be distracted and indulge in dreams. Regardless of whether it is a combat ship, a modern yacht, or a military galleon, each ship personifies all the power and splendor of the sea.
Tabletop wooden ships have excellent decorative qualities, it’s impossible not to admire them. Therefore, wooden ship models always become a worthy decoration for any room, be it a study or a home living room.

To work on each ship model you will need enviable patience and accuracy. But the result of painstaking work is an assembled model, which will become a well-deserved source of your pride.

Wooden ship models for beginners

CONSTRUCTO
Universal series of ships: 80620 1/85 St. Helena
Article: CNSB0620 80620 1/85 St. Helena
Two-masted schooner St. Helena was launched in 1814 and served as a link between England and its eastern colonies. The kit is a 1/85 scale replica of a schooner and is recommended for modelers with little experience.

Universal Ship Series: 80618 1/135 Bluenose II
Article: CNSB6118 80618 1/135 Bluenose II
Wooden model of the ship, the fishing schooner Bluenose II. Launched in 1921 in Nova Scotia. This fishing schooner gained fame after numerous victories won in classic races. Recommended for beginning modelers.

Universal Ship Series: 80615 1/100 Flyer
Article: CNSB6115 80615 1/100 Flyer

Wooden model of a pilot ship in 1/100 scale, Flyer. This American merchant ship, which was renowned for its speed, was converted into a warship and then used as a coast guard ship during the American Revolution and the War of 1812. This is a universal series kit from Constructo, quite easy to assemble and recommended for beginning modellers.

Universal Ship Series: 80616 1/100 Union
Article: CNSB6116 80616 1/100 Union
Model of the brigantine Union, a two-masted sailing ship with square sails. Such ships were very common during the 18th and 19th centuries, used as merchant or light warships, and also served as coast guard ships at a short distance from the coast. The model is recommended for beginning modelers.

Universal series of ships: 80702 1/55 Albatros Sailing Ship
Article: CNSB0702 80702 1/55 Albatros Sailing Ship

Albatros is a model sailing ship built in 1899 on the stocks of Holland, also known as the North Sea Clipper, one of the oldest sailing ships still sailing, one of the main advantages of which is the ability to survive at sea in extremely adverse weather conditions.

Universal series of ships: 80703 1/80 Carmen Spanish Sailing Ship
Article: CNSB0703 80703 1/80 Carmen Spanish Sailing Ship
Sailing ship model, reproduction of the Spanish frigate The Carmen, built in 1861. Recommended for modelers with little experience.

ARTESANIA LATINA
Universal series of ships: 20145 1/35 Bremen Krabben Kutter
Article: LATB2145 20145 1/35 Bremen Krabben Kutter

The first shrimp fishing vessel appeared in 1898 and was virtually designed to work in the North Sea; these vessels eventually began to be equipped with 8-10 strong engines and were about 10 meters in length. Bremen Krabben Kutter, a small shrimp fishing boat built in 1953 in a small shipyard in Germany.

Universal series of ships: 22299 1/80 J.S. Elcano w/ABS Hull & Tools
Article: LATB2299 22299 1/80 J.S. Elcano w/ABS Hull & Tools
Model ship J.S. Elcano, a replica of the Spanish four-masted naval academy training vessel launched at Cadiz on March 5, 1927.

Universal Ship Series: 19004 1/25 Bounty Jolly
Article: LATB1904 19004 1/25 Bounty Jolly

A 1/25 scale wooden replica boat, Bounty Jolly, from the famous historic ship HMS Bounty, famous for the feat of sailing 3,600 miles across the ocean in three small ships.

Universal Ship Series: 22400 1/35 Mare Nostrum Fishing Trawler w/Tools
Article: LATB2400 22400 1/35 Mare Nostrum Fishing Trawler w/Tools
Latina Mare Nostrum is a 1:35 scale replica of a typical Mediterranean fishing trawler built in the harbor of Arenys de Mar, Spain. Trawler assembly kit complete with tools.

Universal series of ships: 22170 1/50 Marie Jeanne
Article: LATB2034 22170 1/50 Marie Jeanne

Universal Ship Series: 22445 1/35 Bremen Fishing Cutter w/Tools
Article: LATB2445 22445 1/35 Bremen Fishing Cutter w/Tools

A scale replica of the Bremen Krabben Kutter shrimp fishing vessel, a small vessel built in 1953 in a small shipyard in Germany. Ship assembly kit with tools.

Some people have a strange, but very remarkable and colorful hobby. It is called assembling ship models from wood. What do you need to make one like this? beautiful thing. Creating a wooden model is not so easy. From this article you will learn how to create one out of wood with your own hands. And we will also do small excursion into history.

Francis Drake

Many history buffs know the name of the “Iron Pirate”; his homeland was England. He became the captain of a sailing ship at just 16 years of age. At first he was a ship's priest, and then a simple sailor. But his fame really exploded when he became a brave and very formidable pirate. In the 16th century, he made quite a few voyages and took part in a considerable number of battles.

Golden Hind

At the moment of dawn of fate, several sailing ships arrived on his property. His main flagship was the Pelican. This ship was a five-deck, three-masted ship. There were 20 artillery weapons on board. All kinds sea ​​stories It’s quite rare that they tell us that a ship that already has a name can be renamed, but it was with the Pelican that, by the will of fate, such a story happened. In 1578, Francis Drake changed the name of this ship to "Golden Hind" (in Russian this name sounds like "Golden Hind"). It was under this second that it was inscribed in sparkling gold letters in world history seafarers. Francis Drake performed quite a few breathtaking deeds on it, which were later recounted in history and adventure books.

It is such wonderful ships that make many people assemble wooden ship models with their own hands. Drawings of many similar designs can often be found on the Internet. So, inspired by the ancient history of navigation, we will learn from this article information on how to do something similar.

DIY wooden ship model: from beginning to rainbow horizons

In fact, the history of modeling consists of several stages. Moreover, each of these stages is associated with several characteristics. A lover of miniature shipbuilding must be able to modify available materials. It is also important to expand the choice of modeling objects. Once it has developed enough, then it can have mass production of models. The next stage will be the development of bench exhibition modeling from the kits that he already has. Subsequently, it can develop to the formation of individual segments. It could be anything - from ship models and even to copies of individual motorcycles, trucks, as well as all kinds of other cars.

DIY wooden ship models: drawings, instructions, tools

So, well, let's start creating such a ship. Carving prefabricated wooden ship models is not the easiest task. You will need many tools for this. Among them are: a knife, a chisel, a hammer, a block (and, if necessary, a saw), thin cloth, superglue, a long wooden spike, a rope, a drill. In addition to this, you will need two more very important parameters. Firstly, it is time, and secondly, an important quality of those people who create prefabricated models of ships from wood is patience.

Carving of a ship from wood

First you have to work with a chisel. You should file everything plus remove the old bolts that have a flat head. It won't take you much time - just two minutes. In these two minutes, the pre-processed block will later become a boat. Now you need to clean the block. You should carefully scrape off the bark. Hold the block itself directly towards the tool. Let's take standard design as an example for our small ship models that we will build according to the principle below. Take a pencil and sketch a preliminary sketch on a block. After this, process the block with a sharp knife. The tilt of the blade itself should be at an angle of about 10 degrees. When you plan, keep in mind that this is not the most light work, so be patient. You should not forget that if for any reason you make a mistake, it will be quite difficult to correct everything. Remove the chips layer by layer, while you should try and process the original block as smoothly as possible. It is important that the top and bottom part must be parallel.

Please note that you don't have to throw away the shavings at all. The point is that, in principle, it can be used as additional material as mulch.

Carving of the front and sides of the ship

Well, now we need to draw the front, bottom, and also the back. We will cut them out in exactly the same way as above. It is necessary to make these parts even. In order to get the bow of the ship, you will have to saw off a piece from the front. Following this, you should round off the cut using a knife. When you make the nose, try to tilt the knife blade itself back. It should be directed towards the stern.

Drilling holes and subsequent installation of equipment

You should have several spiers. Therefore, drill a number of holes; they should be slightly larger in size than the beams themselves. It is important that there are not too many holes. Otherwise, you may end up with a crack. And because of a crack, as we know, a serious disaster can occur - a leak. Don't use glue! If you do this then further work will pass with much greater difficulty.

Installing sails on the model

First, decide how many panels you want to have on your final ship. Let's take as a condition that we will have four panels for the first mast and the second, and three for the last. Following this, take several wooden spiers and cut them. Cut the fabric into a trapezoid shape. Then start gluing them together. Make notches on the branches of the sails, fasten each branch with a corresponding notch. Then glue the middle of the edges to the sails. Repeat the same for all masts. It is best if you build the rear mast first, then the middle one, and then the bow one.

Now let's start installing the upper flying sail. Cut out a shape from fabric in the form kite. Take the thread and attach it to the opposite corner of the panel. Leave ends on both sides for all corners. Glue a small piece of thread exactly on top part boat It should be slightly higher than the bow of the boat itself. Measure from the opposite corner to the middle of the lower branch of the sail on the front mast. Then cut off the thread that you measured and glue the tip to the appropriate place.

You should leave a few threads on each side. Pull them back and glue them straight inside the boat. Then you can cut off the excess rope. Likewise create and attach the back panel. It must be attached to back side rear sail. Measure, cut, and make sure it fits the two tabs. Then glue them in the corners.

Well, now you have learned how to make simple wooden ship models. And although in this article everything is described only in general outline, we hope that it will help you in your future career as a “shipbuilder”. If, of course, you are interested in this. Believe me, this is a worthwhile activity!

Making ship models is the oldest of man's "technical hobbies": for almost six thousand years people have been immortalizing their ships in miniature. The oldest model found during excavations - a ritual silver boat with oars from a tomb in Mesopotamia - is dated by archaeologists to the beginning of the fourth millennium BC.

Russian professional ship modeling is much younger, but it is already three centuries old. The production of ship models began with the Petrovskaya “model chamber”, in which the “Admiralty” models of all new ships under construction were stored. These were exact detailed copies of the hull design with partially removed casing, which served as visual aids for ship carpenters who were poorly versed in drawings.

In fact, Peter I himself was the first serious Russian modeler. At the age of seventeen, having returned from the “Grand Embassy” to Europe, he built such a model of a frigate. By order of Peter, all models were kept as samples for posterity. The collection of our Naval Museum at one time began with the collection of this very “chamber”, located on the site of the current fountain in front of the Admiralty.

Probably, many people, and especially those living in St. Petersburg, with its history and traditions, at least once had the desire to build a model of some sailing ship with their own hands. However, without the necessary skills and tools, this can hardly be done at home, guided by special literature and ship-modeling sites. The technologies described there are often quite complex, require special equipment, materials and almost always presuppose the presence of certain experience, so making a ship is not a simple task. As a result, for someone whose skills are limited to school labor lessons and folding paper boats, the difficulties that arise when work, they are more likely to discourage desire than to create interest. It can be difficult to find recommendations that will allow you to create something significant when starting from scratch. But still, if you wish, it is quite possible to build a fairly decent model, having at your disposal the simplest tools available in any house where there is a man with “hands”, and a minimal set of materials. You just need to initially set yourself up for the fact that everything will work out, definitely (!), but almost never right away. That a failed operation, a screwed-up part (it’s good if there’s only one!) is the norm, a necessary acquired experience, and not an emergency.
Serious professional modelers, whose work, sometimes costing tens of thousands of dollars, take first place in international exhibitions, as a rule, there is a rather skeptical attitude towards models made of papier-mâché. This is understandable - paper, even well-glued, will still remain paper. But for someone who is trying his hand at modeling for the first time, this working technique will be the most preferable. It does not require any expensive materials or tools, and as a workplace it allows you to limit yourself simple table with a piece of plywood placed on it and a grill for the bathroom, so as not to create dust in the room. It’s great if you have an electric drill with a tripod that can be mounted on fresh air. But if not, then the conditions described above will allow you to start, and most importantly, finish your first model. All the models presented in these photographs - from a Roman galley to an armored cruiser - were built using this technology and precisely in these conditions. Fifteen years ago, after an injury, suddenly finding himself isolated from environment, I had to remember my childhood hobby and try to turn it into a profession. After reading a fair amount of literature, I realized that none of the techniques given there pure form Doesn't suit me. As a result of many trials and experiments over the years, a technology has emerged that allows it to work independently of any external circumstances. However, with all the accessibility of the method, it still won’t hurt to acquire something before starting work. The most important thing, of course, is what and how all this will be built. So, what is needed in order to make a ship out of wood with your own hands:1.1

MATERIALS

Array- i.e. ordinary wood, necessary primarily for making spars. For mast columns, pine slats of the appropriate section are best suited. Birch is worse: it is more difficult to select even sections from it and more difficult to process. The thinner parts of the masts - topmasts and flagpoles, yards, the rest of the spar are perfectly made from birch kebabs, which can sometimes be bought in various super-hypermarkets. It is worth paying attention to the fact that they come in different thicknesses: 3.5 and 3 and 1.8 mm came across. For the smallest parts, it is good to use wooden toothpicks. Other wooden parts; in theory, and in theory, those made from solid wood are easier and better obtained from 2-3 layers of veneer of the corresponding species glued together by “Moment” in 2-3 layers.

Glue. Optimally - furniture PVA. Proven - Novgorod PVA-M "Akron". If there isn't one, another one will do. The main thing is that the purpose should indicate “for gluing” wood products, and not “for gluing” - this one holds much worse. When buying, ask to try it - glue two pieces of veneer together by squeezing them with a clothespin, wait 30 minutes until it dries and try to tear them apart. If the glue is good, the veneer will tear, but not the glue. In addition, apply a smear to the surface - a matte, but absolutely homogeneous, transparent film without a milky tint should form. Estonian PVA is good, but sometimes it doesn’t stick to our dried one and falls off. Those. Having started working with one, it is better to continue with it. And, of course, the ordinary “Moment” is also irreplaceable.
Varnishes, paints. Varnish is best suited "Aqua" - i.e. on water based. Dries quickly and does not leave streaks on paper and cardboard. And, which is essential when working in an apartment, there is practically no smell. It makes sense to purchase both colorless and tinted to match dark wood. Paints - after trying several options, I settled on acrylic ones. Of these, the most necessary is gold. Proven - "Inca Gold". Where possible, it may be easier to stick the above-mentioned colored paper. In general, in the traditions of the Russian modeling school, painting models was not very common. Unlike Europe, where they strived for one hundred percent similarity with the original even in shades, in Russia they tried to select valuable types of wood so that their color, although not exactly, approximately, would correspond to the color of the painted original.

Fabric and thread. Any white cotton fabric is suitable for sails. Naturally, the thinner the thread and the tighter the weave, the better. The main thing is that there is no synthetic admixture, otherwise it will not stick well. The same applies to threads. Pure cotton, however, is now difficult to find, but if the percentage of synthetics is small, then you can try them. For standing rigging you need black threads, for running rigging it is better to use light beige threads. In terms of thickness, all possible numbers are useful: from the maximum - 10 or even 0, if you can find it, to 40 - 50. In the literature, it is sometimes recommended to tint the fabric with a weak solution of tea for authenticity. I tried it and didn’t like it: it may be more reliable, but the pure white sails look much nicer. But if you don’t find the right color for the threads, it’s better to lightly tint them with wood stain.

Wire and foil- preferably copper or brass, but any will do, even from tubes. Small nails, plasticine, self-adhesive film, etc. - is not an exhaustive list; new ideas can come to mind at any time during the entire work.

TOOLS

In addition to the standard set of tools that does not need comment, such as a plane, pliers, wire cutters, a screwdriver, clamps in pairs - larger and smaller, a hammer, a hacksaw, chisels, etc., there are several specific things that are worth mentioning separately .Electric drill. If you have an idea to get down to business seriously, and not limit yourself to one test copy, you should definitely get a drill. It is advisable to choose something more powerful - 500 watts, no less. It’s very good if it comes with a tripod and adjustable rotation speed. An extremely useful thing - grinding disc. Those. not a sharpening one (that wouldn’t hurt either), but a grinding one - on the surface of which you can attach sandpaper. Saws. A jigsaw is a useful, although not essential, thing. A hacksaw for metal will come in handy more quickly (albeit for working with wood). It’s good to have two blades for it: small and large. Files. It’s worth having four or five pieces of different shapes and notches, but, in my experience, the main and almost irreplaceable one is flat, small, the largest you can find. It’s also a good idea to have a set of needle files. Knives. Your favorite and necessary knife(pictured) I made myself about 25 years ago from canvas on metal. There are no such things on sale. There is no work without it - only it can cut veneer into strips with high quality. It was about five (!) centimeters longer - it was worn down... So, if you make a similar one, then with a margin in length. When choosing a blade for a blade, try to bend it: if it remains bent, it is too soft. If it breaks, it will fit. You can make it out of the debris. Take a longer blade so that it goes almost through the entire handle. The rounding at the end of the handle is also not accidental: it is convenient for them to rub in parts being glued (especially on the “Moment”), and to simply smooth out unevenness.
Pay attention to the sharpening - it is one-sided, while the right side of the blade is ground off - that is, if you cut it along a ruler, leading like a pencil, then the flat side is pressed against the ruler, and the ground chamfer faces away from the ruler. Blade angle - approximately 30, sharpening - 15-20. From the same cloth it is worth making small thin cutters, like chisels, of different widths: 4, 6, 8, 12 mm - although not immediately, but gradually they will all come in handy somewhere. You can find wood carving kits with semicircular cutters on sale. They, too, sooner or later, will definitely be needed. Awl. Ordinary shoemaking. But you will have to do one more thing yourself - from a long thin nail or from a thick sewing needle (conveniently a machine one) on a long (15-20cm) handle. Well, while we're on the subject, a set sewing needles different sizes will also be needed. Brushes. It’s worth getting a dozen and a half at once - all sizes: from 2 to 20mm, different hardness for different needs. Sometimes instead of a glue brush when small jobs It is convenient to use a thin wire wound to a stick.
Scissors. It is worth having at least two, and preferably three pairs: a separate one for fabric, for foil, and for paper, veneer and cardboard. Sanding paper. A minimum of three numbers is required: from the largest for leveling the body blank for veneering to the smallest for sanding for finishing. Well, the average one is for intermediate work. Sharpening stones for cutters - it’s worth getting three of them, including the smallest whetstone for final finishing.
Little things - necessary, and simply convenient to use: drawing supplies, large tweezers, small pliers with long thin jaws, clothespins, rubber bands "for money", a crochet hook, a table vice, a transparent plexiglass ruler 50 cm long, indelible black and brown markers, wood stain. Yes, you never know what else you can come up with creative approach to the point!
And forward. So, having acquired all of the above, or being confident that you will get what you need at the right time, you can, inspired, get started! I won’t advise you where to get the drawings - there is a lot of literature, the Internet is huge and dynamic - sites are born and die. And I myself haven’t been interested in this direction lately... In any case, since you got here, you can get to the drawings. Study several projects of different ships, comparing their designs and details. Often details missed in one set are perfectly presented in another - for a similar ship of the same class, and vice versa. Their stories are worth reading too. It’s good when the debut is not the first thing that catches your eye, but the fact that as a result of the selection you like more than everyone else - it will be much more interesting to work. Such a model has a much greater chance of being finished - it would be a pity to leave it unfinished... Well, let's start, of course, with the body.
Author - Dmitry Kopilov
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