Brazing of copper pipes. Soldering copper pipes with your own hands using a gas torch. Types of copper pipes and their uses

Entire plumbing or heating systems made of copper are rarely made today, but they are still done. If you calculate the number of years during which copper can last, it turns out that it is not only inexpensive, but very cheap. However, the material itself is not the cheapest, but you can save on installation - soldering copper pipes not the most difficult thing in the world. There are certain rules and features, knowing which you can achieve a quality connection.

Types of copper pipes and their uses

There are two types of copper pipes on the market: annealed and non-annealed. After formation, annealed ones undergo additional heat treatment- they are heated to 600-700°C. This procedure returns elasticity to the material, which is lost during molding. Therefore, annealed pipes are more expensive, but also more flexible - they can even withstand freezing of water. The disadvantages of these products include less strength - it decreases due to heating.

Unannealed copper pipes are stronger, but practically do not bend. When installing plumbing or heating, they are cut into pieces, and all bends are made using appropriate fittings.

There are copper pipes with different wall thicknesses, sold annealed in coils of 25 and 50 meters, unannealed in runs of 3 meters. If we talk about the purity of the material, then according to GOST 859-2001, at least 99% copper must be present in products.

Connection methods

Most often, copper pipes are connected using soldering and a set of special shaped elements - fittings. There are also fittings for crimping. They have grooves with a rubber O-ring installed. They are crimped with special pliers. But this technology used infrequently - soldering is considered more reliable.

There are two technologies for soldering copper pipes using different solders:

  • Low temperature - with soft solder. This is exactly our case. This type of connection is used when laying water pipes and heating systems with a working environment temperature of up to 110°C. Low temperature is relative concept. In the soldering zone, materials are heated to 250-300°C.
  • High temperature brazing. This type of connection is used in networks with high pressure and temperature of the transported medium. In household networks - rarely (although no one prohibits), more often in industrial networks.

What type of copper pipe soldering you use is your choice. Both types are suitable for both plumbing and heating. But high-temperature solder requires a professional torch, while soft solder can even melt blowtorch or an inexpensive hand torch with a small disposable gas cylinder. To connect small-diameter copper pipes, no more is required.

Types of Copper Solder Fittings

In general, there are more than two dozen different shaped elements for copper pipes - fittings, but three types are most often used:


The number of fittings used can be minimized - copper can be bent, which will reduce the number of angles needed. Also, if desired, you can do without couplings: one end of the pipes can be expanded (using an expander) so that the pipe goes into it and there is a gap for solder to get there (about 0.2 mm). When creating an expansion, the pipes must overlap by at least 5 mm, but more is better.

What’s hard to do without is tees. There is equipment for inserting a branch - a beading machine, but it is professional and costs a lot. So in this case it’s cheaper and easier to get by with tees.

There are two types of fittings - conventional, with sockets, which provide the required clearance for solder to flow. Solder is supplied to the welding zone manually. There are fittings with built-in solder. Then a groove is formed on the socket, into which, during production, a piece of solder is installed, which makes the soldering process easier - you just need to heat the welding zone, but leads to an increase in the cost of fittings.

Consumables and tools

In addition to pipes and fittings, you will also need a torch, solder and flux for the soldering itself. And also a pipe bender and a few related little things to process before starting work.

Solder and flux

Soldering of copper pipes of any type occurs using flux and solder. Solder is an alloy usually based on tin with a certain melting point, but always lower than that of copper. It is fed into the soldering zone, heated to a liquid state and flows into the joint. After cooling, it provides a tight and durable connection.

For amateur soldering of copper pipes with your own hands, tin-based solders with the addition of silver, bismuth, antimony, and copper are suitable. Compositions with the addition of silver are considered the best, but they are the most expensive; the optimal ones are those with a copper additive. There are also ones with added lead, but they should not be used for plumbing. All these types of solder provide good quality seam and light soldering.

Flux and solder - necessary consumables

Soft solder is sold in small spools, hard solder is sold in packs, cut into pieces.

Before soldering, the joint is treated with flux. Flux is a liquid or paste that allows molten solder to flow into a joint. There's not much to choose from here: Any will do flux for copper. Also, to apply the flux you will need a small brush. Better - with natural bristles.

Burner

To work with soft solder, you can buy a small hand torch with a disposable gas cylinder. These cylinders are attached to the handle and have a volume of 200 ml. Despite its miniature size, the flame temperature is 1100°C and higher, which is more than enough to melt soft solder.

What you should pay attention to is the presence of piezo ignition. This function is not superfluous - it will be easier to work with. On the handle manual gas burner valve is located. It regulates the flame length (gas supply intensity). The same valve shuts off the gas if the burner needs to be extinguished. Security ensures check valve, which, in the absence of a flame, will shut off the gas supply.

Some models have a flame deflector installed. It prevents the flame from dissipating, creating a higher temperature in the soldering area. Thanks to this, the burner with a reflector allows you to work in the most inconvenient places.

When working with household and semi-professional models, you must be careful not to overheat the unit so that the plastic does not melt. Therefore, it is not worth doing a lot of soldering at one time - it is better to let the equipment cool down and prepare the next connection at this time.

Related materials

To cut copper pipes, you need a pipe cutter or a hacksaw with a metal blade. The cut must be strictly vertical, which is ensured by a pipe cutter. And to ensure an even cut with a hacksaw, you can use a regular carpenter’s miter box.

When preparing pipes, they must be cleaned. There are special metal brushes and brushes for this (for cleaning the inner surface), but you can get by with sandpaper with medium and fine grain.

To remove burrs from cuts, there are chamfer removers. The pipe they used fits better into the fitting - its socket is only a fraction of a millimeter larger than O.D.. So the slightest deviations lead to difficulties. But, in principle, everything can be removed with sandpaper. It will just take more time.

It is also advisable to have safety glasses and gloves. Most home craftsmen neglect these safety measures, but burns are very unpleasant. These are all the materials and tools needed to solder copper pipes.

Step-by-step copper soldering technology

Soldering copper pipes begins with preparing the connection. The reliability of the connection depends on the quality of preparation, so devote enough time and effort to this process.

Preparing the connection

As has already been said, the cut of the pipe must be strictly vertical, without burrs, the pipe must not be wrinkled, the edge must be even and smooth. If there are even slight deviations, we take a chamfer or sandpaper and bring the cut to perfection.

Next, take the fitting and insert the pipe into it. the part that goes into the socket requires cleaning. We take out the pipe and remove the top oxidized layer from this part of the pipe with sandpaper. Then we carry out the same operation with the inner surface of the bell.

Flux is applied to the entire cleaned surface - outside the pipe and inside the fitting. There are no difficulties here - the composition is evenly distributed with a brush.

Soldering

The treated pipeline fragments are inserted into one another and fixed. If there is an assistant, he can hold the parts motionless. If not, you'll have to figure it out yourself. Next, the burner is ignited and the flame is directed to the junction. The flame temperature is from a thousand degrees and above, and the joint must be heated to 250-300°C, and this takes 15-25 seconds. In this case, you can focus on the color of the flux - as soon as it darkens, it’s time to introduce solder.

To ensure uniform heating, direct the burner flame in the middle of the joint. Then the entire welding zone heats up more evenly.

Solder is injected into the joint - where the fitting and pipe connect. As it heats up, it begins to melt, spreads and fills the gap between the elements. You can only apply it to half the length - once it melts, it will flow into the rest of the joint. Actually, that's all - the soldering of the copper pipes is finished. All other connections are made the same way.

When using hard solder, everything is almost the same, only other burners are used - gas flames, and during the soldering process you need to turn the pipe, winding the softened solder onto the pipe.

Copper is one of the most readily available metals, which is widely used in industry and the housing and communal services system. - this is a connection using fittings, using hard and soft soldering. The technology has been known since ancient times, and today it is especially relevant - with the use modern materials for soldering.

Conditions for ensuring strength

One of the conditions for the tightness and strength of soldered products is the appropriate width of the soldered joint. To ensure this condition, special devices of connectors, two-ended elbows, caps, and tees are used. Copper can be soldered:

  • soft solders (melting point below 450 C);
  • hard solders (melting point above 450 C).

Types of solder used on copper water pipes Oh:

  • 40 percent lead/60 percent tin, for example;
  • 95 percent tin-antimony/5 percent lead;
  • 50 percent lead solder is recommended on copper alloy lines, which should not be used for potable water;
  • lead-free solder for pipes used in water supply.

Preparation of the workplace

Soldering copper pipes with your own hands should take place after preparing the workplace, and work should begin with choosing the right tool for soldering copper pipes and related materials.

Required tools for soldering:

Installation of soldering joints in installations is carried out using appropriate torches with propane air or acetylene oxygen. The flame temperature of propane - air is about 1900 C, and acetylene oxygen is about 3100 degrees. The high temperature of the oxyacetylene flame, on the one hand, accelerates the heating process to the soldering temperature, on the other hand, creates the danger of unacceptable melting of the pipe surface.

Soldering tools in particular burner cap, is a critical factor affecting quality. Thus, even heating with standard burner, despite very high thermal conductivity copper (411 W/m * K), can be difficult, especially in places that do not allow you to move the soldering iron. In such situations, it is much more beneficial to use torches with caps, which evenly heat the soldering area.

General procedure

Fasteners for copper pipes

Pipe clamps hold pipes firmly against a wall, support beam, or other structure. These clamps are usually a single bracket with two holes for mounting to a hard surface or a flexible metal strip with holes punched every few centimeters. Any type of clamp requires attachment to a wall or beam.

There are several types fastening elements to choose from:

  • copper pipe clamps;
  • nails;
  • screws and bolts;
  • plastic clips and fasteners;
  • alternative fasteners.

Such pipes usually require clamps because using the same type of metal will reduce the risk of corrosion from the low electrical currents created when different metals are joined together. Copper provides a flexible clamp that allows pipes to expand and contract in different weather conditions. Pipe clamps available in molded C-shaped structures or in flexible strips of copper with clamps punched along the strip. Either type is acceptable for copper plumbing fixtures.

Nails are inserted on both sides of the pipe clamp and secured in place to secure the clamp to the wall or other surface. They work best on wood, but can be used on drywall and exposed siding.

It is important to use zinc nails to avoid corrosion of the nail head over time. Installation of fasteners requires care. Copper pipes bend easily, and a missed blow with a hammer can damage it. Before soldering, it is better to start with a video tutorial that demonstrates the correct technology.

Screws and bolts are another option for attaching clamps. Screws require the use of a drill, but are much stronger than nails. Screws work well in wood, but can also be installed in concrete or other hard surfaces. Some pipe clamps are tied using bolts. Typically, bolts come with clamps. It's best to use galvanized screws and bolts to reduce the chance of them corroding over time.

You can use plastic clamps and fasteners with copper pipes. The plastic will not corrode the copper surface and holds as tightly as copper clamps. Plastic zippers are also used to connect the pipe to another surface. This is especially useful when it is not practical to use a copper pipe clamp with nails or screws, such as when connecting multiple pipes. Plastic zippers are available in the most different sizes for any application.

Difference between soldering copper and brass

Soldering - handy tool when it comes to bathroom plumbing repairs. Soldering is not a single type of operation, but different cases other technologies are required. In particular, brazing brass pipes can be more difficult than brazing copper because brass fittings require higher temperatures.

The basic process for joining brass or copper water pipes is essentially the same, however the big difference between copper and brass is that brass requires much more heat to proper operation solder. In fact, the metal would have to be heated five or six times hotter than copper before it would reach the point where the solder would melt. This will require more high temperature from the torch, more time, heat supply to the metal, and close attention behind the behavior of the flame from all sides.

Brass pipes are somewhat unusual, so before starting soldering you need to make sure that pressure inside the soldering does not accumulate, but is freely released into the environment.

Experience suggests that propane burners are not hot enough to work with brass. Instead, when working with brass, a special gas is used, which is a mixture of methyl acetylene and propadiene, which reaches a higher temperature than propane. There is no need to skimp on using flux or solder paste when you need to install pipes.

When a person takes on the arrangement own home, then naturally he tries to do everything to the highest standard. At the same time, there are only two ways to implement the conceived ideas: to carry out the work by hired professionals or to do everything exceptionally yourself. Moreover, the second option is not only an attempt to save on the services of specialists. There are people who believe, it should be noted often very rightly, that only a person can do a job perfectly with his own hands. And even if the principle “I do everything myself” is dictated solely by financial considerations, then there is nothing wrong with that. Moreover, people who undertake complex and high-tech work command respect. As an example, soldering of copper pipes can be considered. One has only to add that the relevance of this topic is dictated by the great popularity of copper pipelines when installing plumbing or heating systems.

A little theory before starting work

To begin with, it is worth noting that the opinion that copper pipelines are prohibitively expensive for the average homeowner is highly exaggerated. Yes, copper communications cannot be called budget option, when compared with PVC pipes, but on the other hand, if we consider the strength characteristics and reliability of the connections, the comparison will definitely be in favor of copper.

So, we are interested in connecting copper pipes when installing, say, a water supply system from the point of view of independent implementation. Before you get started, there are a few important things to understand:

  • The vast majority use pipes with 3/8" and 3/4" threads in diameter.
  • The nominal diameter in any situation is 3.2 mm less than the outer diameter.
  • The work may involve copper pipes with walls of different thicknesses, which are indicated by the corresponding indices: K, L, M. In addition, there is a division of these products into hard and soft.

We hasten to assure you that you won’t have to purchase anything extraordinary or expensive.

Everything you need for copper soldering work

The standard technology for soldering copper pipes involves the use of elements that can easily be found in your own supplies. Well, as a last resort, you will have to visit the nearest plumbing store. So, to execute correct installation You need to prepare copper pipes with your own hands:

  • Solder - exists in the form of special rods or wire. Its melting point is lower than that of copper, which allows it to be used to connect copper pipes by heating.
  • Steel brush - its functional purpose is to clean pipes from the outside and fittings from the inside in preparation for soldering. As an alternative, fine-grained sandpaper can be used, but in this case the process will be more labor-intensive.
  • Soldering flux – coating of pipes and fittings in preparation for soldering.
  • Brush – applying flux paste.
  • Sanding – cleaning surfaces.
  • Propane torch small size paired with a welding switching mechanism. It is used to heat pipes and fittings during the joining process.
  • Heat resistant gasket.
  • Copper pipe.
  • Fitting.

From the above list, the most specific item is a gas burner. Modern market offers them in various variations: simple, with piezo ignition, for different types gas cartridges.

Soldering copper pipes with hard solder is alternative way pipe connections providing high seam strength. Brazing alloys BCuP or BAg are used as additives. They ensure the reliability of the solder connection. But according to SNiP, such solder is required primarily for repairs refrigeration equipment or air conditioners, and for communications it is enough to use soft solder, for example, tin.

The work will be carried out as efficiently as possible if you have at hand an inexpensive, for example, Polish-made burner, but with piezo ignition. Purchasing a branded model, but without this function, is a mistake.

Soft soldering algorithm

Use a brush to clean the inside of the connection. Then, the outer surface is brought to a beautiful copper shine with sandpaper. After this, flux paste is applied with a brush both outside and inside the joints, which are then inserted into each other.

Solder is applied along the edges of the connections. In this case, there is no need to treat the entire perimeter of the connection with solder; if you are using tin solder, then it is enough to treat only half the perimeter with it. Tin tends to be absorbed into the joint.

Possible errors when soldering:

  • Before soldering copper pipes correctly, you need to clearly understand that the burner flame temperature reaches 1000°C. It is important not to overexpose the connections at the epicenter of the flame. It takes 15-20 seconds to warm up.
  • We must not forget about protecting items from heat in the place where soldering is performed. Particular emphasis should be placed on the removal of flammable and flammable substances.
  • The importance of ensuring adequate ventilation in work area. Windows and doors should be open, and a fan can be turned on if necessary.

When soldering copper connections it is important not to overheat the adhesion site

How else can you connect copper elements?

An alternative to classical soldering, it is possible to connect copper pipes with fittings, which can be of two types:

  1. Crimp - made from brass. Inside this fitting there is a crimp ring that ensures the tightness of the connection.
  2. Capillary soldering - differ in internal diameter from the external indicator by 0.1-0.15 mm.

The use of a fitting method for connecting copper pipes can subsequently provide additional benefits, namely the possibility of complete recovery. That is, copper elements that have been replaced can, under certain conditions, be reused.

Safety first

Installation of copper pipes cannot be performed when arranging a kitchen, that is, to satisfy drinking needs. When copper comes into contact with chlorine contained in tap water, compounds harmful to the body are formed. If we are talking about such a source of water supply as a well, then there are absolutely no restrictions.

Such beautiful neat seams should be the result.

The end result of soldering copper pipes is a tight, beautiful seam, but its integrity needs to be checked. If soldering was performed within the device plumbing system, then you just need to fill it with water, creating the maximum operating pressure. There is no need to rush; you need to let the seam cool completely, otherwise it will simply crack due to a sharp temperature change.

GENERAL INFORMATION

The technique for connecting copper pipes is easy and reliable. The most common joining technique is capillary soldering. This method is based on the capillary effect, the essence of which is that with a small distance between the walls of two wetted surfaces, the liquid due to adhesion will rise up the capillary, overcoming the force of gravity. It is this effect that allows the solder to spread evenly over the entire surface, regardless of the position of the pipe (you can, for example, feed solder from below).
To improve the quality of soldering and increase the adhesion coefficient, special fluxes are used, and the surfaces for soldering are pre-cleaned.
This is the most reliable, optimal way to connect copper pipes. When connecting pipes using high-temperature soldering, the entire system can even be filled with concrete, which is not allowed with a threaded connection.
Brazing is carried out at temperatures above 425°C, but below the melting point of the metals being joined. It occurs due to surface adhesion forces between the molten solder and the heated surfaces of the base metals. The solder is distributed in the joint by capillary forces.
Do not confuse soldering brazing with soldering soft solder, although the operations are very close. The joining of metals during soft soldering occurs at temperatures below 425 °C.

SELECTION OF EQUIPMENT AND MATERIALS

Thus, to perform soldering work on copper pipes, you must select the following:

  1. Copper pipe tool
  2. Solder to be used for soldering.
  3. A gas torch that will melt the solder.

This choice is determined by two initial parameters:

  1. The maximum diameter of the copper pipe used.
  2. The medium (or liquid) that will be inside the pipes.
  3. The price that the customer is willing to spend to complete the work.

These three important parameters will primarily determine the choice of a particular tool or solder.

I. Copper pipe tool

The process of preparing the ends of a copper pipe for soldering comes down to the following operations:

    Cutting copper pipe pipe cutter for cutting copper pipes. There are many pipe cutters. The choice is determined by the diameter of the copper pipes used, as well as the ease of use. For example, is there a need to use a pipe cutter in hard to reach places. Is it necessary to have a beveling knife in the pipe cutter body, as well as a spare cutting roller? Plays a role and price. The larger the diameter a pipe cutter cuts, the more expensive it is, of course.

    Removing chamfers and burrs from the edges of copper pipes chamfer. This operation is performed to remove burrs from the inner and outer edges of pipes to facilitate insertion of the pipe into a pipe or fitting. Chamfer removers come in two types: in the form of a pencil, or in a round case. The round beveler is limited to a maximum copper pipe diameter of 36mm, but is more convenient and more expensive.

    Expansion of a pipe with a pipe expander. This operation is performed when installing copper pipes without fittings, i.e. when expensive fittings are not used, which saves installation for a certain amount of work. The expandable copper pipe must be either soft or annealed! After expanding one of the ends of the copper pipe, you can insert the pipe into a pipe or into a fitting. The choice of a pipe expander depends on the diameter of the copper pipe and the financial viability of the customer:

Quality pastes, used with soft solder, in accordance with DIN EN 29453, containing flux in accordance with DIN EN 29454-1 3.1.1.C, tested according to DVGW registration no. F1 028, for soldering joints of copper pipes with copper pipes, made of red bronze and brass fittings in hot and cold water supply systems in accordance with DVGW, regulation GW 7, solder content 60%, flux residues 100% soluble in water.

Gas burners on disposable cylinders for soft soldering.

Or gas burners work with stationary gas cylinders

Soldering copper pipes

A necessary condition for reliable soldering is surface cleanliness. Before the soldering operation, the metal surfaces to be connected are cleaned of dirt. ROFLICE sponges. (The use of abrasive materials for cleaning is strictly prohibited!)

Oil, paint, dirt, grease and aluminum must be prevented from getting on the surface of the metals being joined, otherwise they will prevent the solder from getting into the joint, wetting and bonding the solder to the metal surfaces.

When connecting two pipes of the same diameter in cold and hot water supply systems, as well as in heating installations where the coolant temperature does not exceed 110 degrees C, you can do without a fitting. Using a special device - PIPE EXPANDER– the end of one of the connected pipes can be independently expanded for capillary soldering. This operation is possible when working with soft or annealed copper.

After expanding the tube, one tube is inserted into the other so that it extends to a length not less than the diameter of the inner tube. There should be a gap of 0.025-0.125 mm between the walls of the inner and outer pipes (Fig. 1).

Rice. 1. Installation of pipes connected by soldering

The pipes being connected are heated evenly along the entire circumference and length of the connection.
Both pipes are heated by a burner flame at the junction, distributing the heat evenly (Fig. 2). However, the solder itself should not be heated. The connection should not be heated to the melting temperature of the metal from which the pipes are made. Use a burner of the appropriate size with a slightly decreasing flame. Overheating the connection increases the interaction of the base metal with the solder (that is, it increases the formation of chemical compounds). As a result, such interaction negatively affects the service life of the connection (Fig. 3).


Rice. 2. Placement of the torch when soldering pipes: 1 -outer pipe; 2 - burner; 3 - heating zone; 4 -inner pipe

If you introduce solder and a torch flame into the soldering zone at the same time, the connection will heat up unsatisfactorily. The inner pipe does not warm up enough, and the molten solder will not flow into the gap between the connected pipes (Fig. 3).


Rice. 3. Solder distribution in pipe joint:
a - the inner pipe is heated to the soldering temperature, and the outer pipe has a lower temperature;
b - the outer pipe is heated to the soldering temperature, and the inner pipe has a lower temperature;
c - both pipes are heated evenly to the soldering temperature

If you uniformly heat the entire surface of the ends of the pipes being soldered, the solder melts under the influence of their heat and evenly enters the joint gap (Fig. 3, c).

Pipes for soldering are sufficiently heated if the rod brazing solder melts on contact with them. To improve soldering, preheat the solder bar with a torch flame (Fig. 4).


Rice. 4. Position of the burner and solder rod when soldering the joints of pipe ends heated to a dull cherry-red color: 1 - burner; 2 - inner pipe; 3 - solder rod; 4 - outer pipe

Under the influence of capillary forces, solder enters the joint. This process proceeds well if the metal surface is clean, an optimal gap is maintained between the metal surfaces, and the ends of the pipes in the joint area are sufficiently heated (molten solder flows towards the heat source) (Fig. 5).

Rice. 5. Movement of solder in the gap between pipes during soldering

Joining copper to brass using solid copper-phosphorus solder

To connect copper to brass using solid copper-phosphorus solder, the above operations are the same as for connecting copper to copper.

Before heating the joint, a small amount of flux is applied to ensure the solder is wetted on the surface of the brass.
Upon completion of the soldering operation, carefully remove any remaining flux. hot water and a brush. Most fluxes are corrosive and must be completely removed from the joint surface.

Joining steel to steel, copper, brass or bronze using silver solder

To join steel to steel, copper, brass or bronze using silver solder, follow the above steps for joining copper to copper.

Before heating, flux is applied to the joint for subsequent wetting and movement of molten solder into the gaps between the parts being connected.
Heat the solder bar and then dip it in flux. The solder is coated with a thin layer of flux, which prevents the formation of an oxide coating on its surface (zinc oxide).
Upon completion of the soldering operation, carefully remove any remaining flux.

Soldering fluxes

Flux absorbs a certain amount of oxides.
The viscosity of the flux increases when it is saturated with oxides. If leftover flux is not removed after soldering, it will end up in the joint and can cause corrosion and leakage over time.
When soldering, use a minimal amount of flux, and then carefully clean off any remaining flux after completing this operation.
Flux is applied along the surface, not into the joint. It should hit the connection before the solder.

Rules for soldering copper pipes

  1. A slightly decreasing flame is used which creates maximum heat and cleans the joint.
  2. Metal surfaces cleaned and degreased.
  3. Check relative position parts and gaps.
  4. When soldering, apply a minimal amount of flux to the outside of the joint. When soldering copper to copper using copper-phosphorus solders, no flux is required.
  5. For soldering, the joint is heated evenly to the required temperature.
  6. Solder is applied to the connection. Check its uniform distribution in the connection, using for this purpose soldering torch. The molten solder flows towards the hotter joint.
  7. Flux residues are carefully removed after soldering.
  8. An important point soldering is a quick way to perform this operation. The heating cycle should be short and overheating should be avoided.
  9. When soldering, it is necessary to ensure adequate ventilation, since smoke may be harmful to health (cadmium vapor from solder and fluoride compounds from flux).

You can make a plumbing or heating system in a private house yourself; it is only important to understand how to solder copper pipes to make a reliable connection.

Copper pipes have an inaccessible steel pipes flexible, durable and resistant to impact chemical elements, which is why such a system is preferable.

Copper is one of the elements that has been well known to mankind for more than 1000 years.

Therefore, it is not surprising that it has found application in many devices and systems, for example:

  • as pipes in a water supply system;
  • as pipes for heating systems in private houses.

Such systems last throughout the life of the entire house, so you don’t have to worry about providing access to them - walling them up, filling them with concrete, sheathing them wall panels etc.

The only requirement for monolithic placement of copper pipes is to use a cushioning material: corrugation or PVC insulation, which prevents the mechanical impact of the materials on the pipelines when changing temperature regime(winter-summer).

The situation on the consumer market

Many consumers naturally ask: since copper has so many advantages, why don’t copper pipes dominate the heating and plumbing equipment market?

It's all about common misconceptions, of which a couple of main ones can be identified:

  1. Copper pipes are quite expensive.
  2. Soldering copper pipes is very difficult.

Indeed, copper is used in the production of copper pipes for heating and water supply systems high quality with high anti-corrosion properties. It solders perfectly and can withstand high blood pressure, does not lose hardness and ductility. And, accordingly, it is expensive.

But in terms of 1 linear meter already installed plumbing or heating system, the cost of a system made of copper pipes is at the level of similar systems, for example, from plastic pipes by saving on expensive fittings.

The second point that stops consumers is the lack of information about how to properly solder copper pipes, and whether it can be done independently.

For reference: Copper is an exceptional metal that lends itself well to soldering. Its surface is well cleaned from oxides and contaminants, and provides excellent adhesion to solders.

The very adhesion (wetting) of copper surfaces during soldering contributes to the manifestation of the capillary effect, due to which the solder penetrates into the gaps, spreading in all directions, even upwards.

Learn to create a durable and environmentally friendly system in own home everyone can. To do this, you just need to study the principle of copper soldering and gain a little experience.

Preparing for work

Before you begin assembling a heating or plumbing system, you should stock up on tools, without which it is impossible to obtain tight connections for a copper pipeline.

To work with copper pipes you will need:


  1. Steel brush for cleaning internal surfaces pipes
  2. Brush for cleaning soldered surfaces. Just like a brush, it is necessary to remove oxides and contaminants that impede quality soldering.
  3. Gas burner with a nozzle for adjusting the flame.

You can use compact burners based on household gas cylinders to refuel tourist stoves (camping gas).


In addition, to install the system you will also need general construction tools:

  • level;
  • roulette;
  • hammer (for pipe expander);
  • marker.

Soldering process

Let's start learning some simple techniques on how to solder copper pipes:



Warning! It is forbidden to use fine-grained sandpaper to remove burrs and clean surfaces.

Due to the softness of copper, abrasive particles from the sandpaper will remain on the surface and prevent adhesion.


  1. Similarly, we clean the edge of the expanded pipe from burrs and dirt.
  2. We apply flux. It is best to apply it to one pipe that is inserted (smaller diameter). Spread evenly over the surface using a brush.

Caution: If there is a lot of flux, then when heated, solder will get inside the pipe, where a drop will form. This may cause noise from water during operation.


  1. Apply solder to the pipe joint. It begins to melt without a burner, from hot copper and, spreading, fills all the voids between the pipes due to the capillary effect. As soon as drops of solder begin to appear on the surface of the pipes, soldering should be stopped.
  2. While the soldering area is cooling, do not blow on the connection or apply physical stress.

Do not allow the process to overheat the pipes. If the pipe begins to turn black, it is necessary to stop heating, since if the pipe is overheated, the “capillary” soldering effect will not work.


  • If you don’t have soldering skills, you should first practice on pipe scraps. Experts say that 2-3 times are enough to master the skills and get an idea of ​​​​working with copper.
  • It is best to pre-assemble the parts of the system on the table, and then solder them at their location. For example, a ball valve is first installed on prepared parts of the system with threaded connections, and then assembled and installed into the water supply system.
  • After assembly, the system should be thoroughly flushed with pressure hot water to remove excess flux and solder.

Conclusions: As you can see, soldering a plumbing or heating system made of copper can be mastered by anyone who knows how to handle simple tools. It is only important to do everything carefully, avoiding violations of the soldering technology.