An insulating linoleum underlay separates the subfloor (plank, concrete, plywood) from the finishing coating. Products differ in structure, determined by their origin, plate or roll form of release, thickness, and operational capabilities.

When deciding whether a linoleum underlay is needed, you need to take into account its basic functions. The material helps:

• absorb the inevitable dynamic pressure. If the rough coating does not have a high-quality, smooth surface and is characterized by small flaws, an insulating layer will be needed to mask them;
• compensate for differences in base height within 2 mm per square meter. m, thereby protecting the front covering from premature wear due to additional loads (the latter arise due to surface tension in areas of fractures and bends);
• isolate moisture - this condition is very important for apartments on the first floors. Substrate under linoleum on concrete base allows you to reduce the effect of cold floors - this is the effect of the presence of an unheated damp room below;
• keep warm and protect from noise penetration.

For those who are unsure about whether to install underlayment, keep in mind that additional underlayment increases the softness of the floor. For some, this is a plus, because walking on such a surface is more pleasant, but using heavy furniture will be problematic. Bulky objects will stand unevenly, the structures will become skewed, and the legs will leave deep dents.

When choosing which underlay to use, you should avoid extruded polystyrene foam. Panels with a thickness of 1-2 cm are perfect for laminate, but not for linoleum (the latter is too soft and creates an unsteady surface).

Characteristics and properties of popular types

Insulating flooring material has a conditional classification, and therefore the most convenient selection criterion is the raw materials from which the products are made. The source can be synthetic, natural, or combined, but it does not significantly affect thermal conductivity: the difference between the examples does not exceed 10-15%.

Cork

Cork backing for linoleum is made from crushed bark; this is an intermediate stage of wood processing; it contains lignin and wax. Such components endow the material with moisture resistance and high hardness; natural ingredients also provide surface elasticity.

Advantages of using it as a lining:

• hypoallergenic;
• resistance to mold, rot, fungus;
• optimal heat and sound insulating properties;
• opportunity quality leveling grounds.

Disadvantages of cork underlay for linoleum:

• excessive softness, creating conditions for deformation of the finishing coating;
• installation may not be practical in conditions high humidity;
• if you plan to use heavy furniture and equipment, there is a high risk of material deformation due to high pressure;
• it is important to strictly follow the flooring technology;
• high price range.

Even though cork is moisture resistant, it remains vulnerable due to its porous structure. Jute and flax have properties similar to mineral wool insulation, and cork corresponds to polystyrene foam.

Jute

A coarse textile fabric made from plant fibers is used here. Jute is an annual spinning plant.

Advantages of jute backing for linoleum:

• environmental friendliness;
• high-quality heat and sound insulation;
• it is easy to lay, the lining can mask minor defects in the base;
• increased rigidity and elasticity;
• resistance to the growth of fungus and mold, to fire (before use, the canvas is impregnated with antiseptics and fire retardants);
• durability.

The only drawback of the solution is the high cost.

Polypropylene

This is the most budget option among analogues; the feasibility of its use is determined by the level of trafficability of a particular area. Depending on the intensity of use, the service life of the material is 5-10 years.

Strengths:

• the substrate is easy to lay, the strips are laid on the subfloor with a slight overlap and secured with adhesive tape;
• worn areas can be quickly replaced with new ones.

The only vulnerability is considered to be insufficient softness caused by the small thickness of the material. On the one hand, heavy deformation of linoleum is excluded household appliances and furniture, on the other hand, is affected by the relative inconvenience of walking on such a hard surface. The feeling is similar to using lint-free carpeting.

Felt

It is made from felted wool; after steam treatment, the raw material is combined into linen. Manufacturing technology involves treating wool with compounds that prevent rotting and fire. The natural lining is environmentally friendly and safe, not afraid of abrasion and mechanical stress, soft, elastic, and has an antibacterial effect. Felt perfectly retains and conducts heat.

Linen

The advantage of using flax products is the ability to natural ventilation in the space under the linoleum on the concrete floor. The breathable properties of the raw material eliminate the problem of infection by pathogens, mold and mildew, the growth of which is often caused by stagnant air and moisture accumulation.

Advantages of use:

• environmental friendliness;
• complete noise and heat insulation;
• the presence of impregnations that prevent the combustion of raw materials.

The downside of the flax layer is that it is susceptible to deformation due to its average strength and rigidity.

Foil

This is one of the types of foam-based products. It consists of polystyrene or isolon, supplemented thin layer aluminum foil (the latter functions as a heat reflector). The material is in high demand when arranging heated floors, it has enhanced moisture resistance and exhibits high strength.

Coniferous

A relatively new type of insulating gasket is made from waste generated after processing softwood. The material exhibits excellent sound insulation characteristics and is designed to meet the high need for heat retention. The specific smell of coniferous substrate under linoleum disappears over time.

Which substrate for linoleum is better?

The key selection criteria are the purpose of the room being renovated and the type of flooring. General recommendations on the use of materials:

• jute and linen variations are suitable only for warm rooms. They are also used when new linoleum laid on the old one;
• A universal solution would be a cork backing. It is compatible with all types of linoleum and substrates;
• if the room is used in conditions of low traffic, you can lay synthetic products;
• natural raw materials can suffer under conditions of temperature changes and high humidity. Impregnations are ineffective here; it is better to organize high-quality waterproofing, for example, using a thick polyethylene film.

Linoleum is classified according to the degree of wear resistance, and therefore the following features must be taken into account:

• a commercial coating needs an additional linen layer; if you plan to create a heated floor system, you will need foil material;
• commercial rulers are mounted with a dense jute or combined backing;
• in apartments where household linoleum is used, you can lay a cork or jute lining.

Experts often insist on the use of a substrate regardless of what kind of finishing coating is planned - baseless or basic. The additional layer, in addition to thermal and sound insulation, masking minor irregularities, prevents the subfloor from coming into contact with the decorative cladding.

Features of laying the base linoleum floor

Preparatory manipulations and ease of installation depend on the quality of the subfloor. As practice shows, work is carried out faster on a concrete base.

On a wooden floor

It is important to correctly assess the condition of the wooden flooring and the deflection of the boards, and fix creaky floorboards. For dry and level wooden base It is customary to lay natural materials - linen, cork, jute, combined. If traces of mold are visible or the boards are rotten, you need to replace the damaged areas and saturate the surface with an antiseptic.

When choosing a bedding, the subfloor is inspected for potholes, chips, and cracks. If there are significant defects and irregularities that cannot be eliminated by puttying or sanding, it is better to use sheets of hardboard, plywood, OSB, chipboard, or gypsum fiber board as a substrate. It is recommended to lay sheet types of materials on the base, which is a block parquet, since they are fully capable of protecting the linoleum from deformation.

Rolled raw materials are fixed using a construction stapler, sheet materials are attached to logs, and the joints are distributed in a checkerboard pattern.

On the concrete floor

On flawless smooth surface install the main linoleum without additional insulation. It is better to lay baseless variations on a cork or foil lining. Pits and significant differences in height are leveled using cement-bonded particle boards or concrete screed. In the latter case, after pouring the solution, the floor should be allowed to dry thoroughly. In this scenario, jute, akuflex, polymer and cork products are used as a substrate, and the joints are sealed with construction tape.

Regardless of the type of underlay used, linoleum should be left unrolled until completely straight before laying.

Linoleum is an excellent flooring option - a diverse, inexpensive and durable material that will meet all the expectations associated with it. But when it comes to laying it directly, two completely opposite technologies emerge: with or without a substrate. This question is not as simple as it might seem at first glance, so, as they say, you need to dig deeper. This article will talk about how to lay a substrate under linoleum.

What is a linoleum underlay and why is it needed?

The substrate is a special material made from natural fibers or from raw materials of non-natural origin, which serves as a layer between the base and the floor covering itself. It is also used when laying laminate flooring.

The underlay is not just designed to be a buffer that increases the service life of linoleum, but also has insulating properties. Its purpose can be divided into three main categories.

• Smoothing out minor defects and unevenness in concrete floors. Perfect smooth surfaces does not exist. Of course, before laying linoleum, the base is leveled. And the substrate will help bring the result to perfection. Those who believe that it is a panacea for any bumps, holes and potholes in the floor are mistaken. Large imperfections will “break through” both the substrate and the linoleum, ruining it.

Substrate for linoleum photo

• Soundproofing. Regardless of its origin, the material in question contributes to noise absorption to a greater or lesser extent. This will be appreciated by both the neighbors below (deprived of the opportunity to hear which of those living on the floor above went where) and the happy owners of the linoleum floor.
• Thermal insulation. For the same reason that backing fibers dampen sound, they help insulate heat. Apartments on the first floors, private houses, where the foundation is poured on the ground, most need an additional layer that guarantees warmth.

Types and characteristics of underlays for linoleum floors

Several commercially available types of this material get their name from the raw materials that served as the basis for its manufacture. Before choosing which linoleum substrate is better, you should familiarize yourself with their characteristics.

• Cork backing for linoleum. Or more precisely, crushed tree bark. The heat and sound insulation properties of this natural material, made without any synthetics, are truly excellent, as is the cost. And one more drawback - if it goes into a room that will be furnished with heavy, massive objects, then they will push through it along with the covering. The shape of the substrate will not be restored, so when rearranged, the floor will be “decorated” by extremely noticeable indentations from the furniture legs. It is chosen either with the expectation of a permanent arrangement of furniture, or in rooms where there will not be a massive chest of drawers or an oak table with a cabinet. In all other cases, its soft springy structure is inappropriate.
• Linen backing for linoleum. The substrate made on its basis provides natural and sufficient ventilation, which guarantees the absence of colonies of fungi that love moisture and stagnant air. The fact that this product is natural is clear. And as a result, it needs treatment against insects and to prevent rotting. Fire retardants protect it from fire.

• Combined substrate. Warmth, dryness, and the proper level of sound insulation will be provided by a material that is a “hodgepodge” of flax, wool and jute. This combination gives it both increased wear resistance and the necessary hardness.
• Foamed backing for linoleum. Despite its popularity, it has one constant advantage - its low price. Under linoleum, during constant use, it will soon lose its shape. Along with this, the already low other indicators will go away.

Founding debate

The debate about which surface is best to lay linoleum on is unlikely to ever end. But it should be noted that general requirements in this regard they still exist. A floor constructed according to all the rules has the following characteristics:

• solid base;
• maximum solid base;
• level position in horizontal plane. Small differences are acceptable provided that they do not exceed 2-7 mm and are smooth, without obvious bulges and depressions. Then the use of a substrate compensates for this;
• absence of moisture during installation and sources of dampness in the future;
• no stains (oil, grease) or paint.

• Concrete covering fits the description well. Ideally, it should be leveled using self-leveling mixtures. But even they do not exclude the use of a substrate - thermal insulation is never superfluous. Laying must be done on a completely dry base. Just completed concrete screed(depending on thickness, room temperature and ventilation) will dry and gain hardness for at least a month. The test is carried out using an inverted can or a piece of polyethylene secured with tape. If condensation has not accumulated on them after the night, the surface is ready for final finishing floor covering.

• Use as a leveling base plywood on concrete floor This is possible only if a layer of waterproofing is first laid. Only the sheets on which the substrate and linoleum are laid are already being installed on it.
• Wooden floor quite acceptable as a basis. First, get rid of protruding nails, and large gaps, unevenness is eliminated by laying plywood (8-12 mm thick). The screws are deeply recessed into its surface so as not to damage the coating later.
• Old linoleum In principle, specialists have no “contraindications” for laying over a new coating. Used material will have to be degreased, make sure that it is firmly attached to the floor and has no torn areas. You can also lay linoleum on carpet. In this case, no substrate is required.
• Ceramic tiles the same reliable foundation as a concrete floor. If it has any shortcomings, the same leveling compound is used.

Linoleum underlay for concrete floor

From tools and additional materials may be useful:

• sharp construction knives;
• wide spatula;
• long ruler;
• double-sided tape;
• glue.

If we assume that there is concrete base, linoleum without a base and a backing, then the sequence of laying the backing under the linoleum will be as follows.

• Laying linoleum assumes a completely empty room. First of all, this is necessary because it cannot be laid immediately after purchase. Therefore, linoleum needs to be cut to the size of the room, adding at least 10 centimeters on each side.

• The material is rolled out from a roll on the floor and left alone for a couple of days. At room temperature it will straighten out, and you can press it further along the edges, for example, with a stack of books.
• The concrete floor surface is completely ready for installation: leveled, cleaned, free of cracks and completely dry. A backing is spread on it. Before laying the underlay under the linoleum, you need to carefully straighten it and ensure that it evenly covers the entire floor area. If possible, you can let it “sit down” for a while. When the substrate forms an even coating, it is carefully trimmed in places where there is excess material. The canvases are fastened together with mounting tape.
• Laying linoleum should be done from the corner that will be “in sight”, that is, least crowded with furniture. Since the material has already been straightened out during the days it was lying on the floor, it will be easier to work with it. You need to check the direction of the drawing again, if it matters.

• When one piece is not enough to cover the width of the floor in the room, you will have to join and glue two pieces. The strips, cut with an allowance, are laid so that an overlap of 10 cm is formed. The part that is at the bottom is folded back, coated with glue on the floor and glued tightly. The layers at the overlap are removed with a sharp knife, and the two formed edges are glued into place. This technology allows the joint to be made as seamlessly as possible.
• Now you need to remove the stock of linoleum left around the edges. First of all, this trimming operation is performed in the corners. Then the coating will lie tightly enough so as not to make mistakes with trimming around the perimeter.
• To make cutting easier, you can use a spatula. It is placed in place of the bend near the wall, additionally presses the linoleum, and a cut is made along it from above. Construction knives are best suited for such operations.
• If the preparation stage, when the linoleum was first spread out to straighten out, was skipped, then at the trimming stage it is necessary to ensure that the edge of the covering does not reach the wall a couple of millimeters. After this, he will still have to be left alone for at least a day. The linoleum will straighten out and lie flat on the wall. If after 24 hours it is “hunched over” in some places and rests against the walls, then it is trimmed again.
• The final stage will be the installation of the baseboard.

Buy a linoleum underlay for a concrete floor

Technotex LLC - Russian manufacturer insulation and other jute materials offers its products in the following options.

• The substrate exclusively from this plant is produced in thicknesses from 2 to 5 mm and has different densities (from 450 to 750 g/m²). The price per square meter ranges from 42 to 58 rubles. The width of the proposed rolls is 1-2 meters, the length in both cases is the same - 10 m.
• The combined version (jute + wool + linen) is available in the same thickness and density. Price depending on characteristics - from 39 to 55 rubles. The roll dimensions are identical to the option described above.
• Linen backing is also produced by this company, but only to order.
• It is worth mentioning that the prices are taken from the official website of the manufacturer, and retail sales may differ from those stated. If you believe customer reviews, a square meter of such material can cost from 80 to 150 rubles.

Price for cork backing under linoleum on concrete floor egen (Portugal) 3 mm thick will be 135 rubles/m². Similar material from the manufacturer PORTO(2 mm) will be even more expensive - 180 rubles. There are manufacturers offering material from 95 rubles/m².

• Almost 16 square meters foam backing 2 mm thick can be purchased from 130 rubles. per roll. As mentioned, this is the most budget-friendly, but also the least preferred option.

When can you do without a substrate?

A careful reading of the above begs the question: if all surfaces are pre-leveled, then why use a substrate, which is quite expensive for its high-quality performance?

• The answer is this. If the material in question was needed as a leveling layer, then flat floors there is no need to use it. This also applies to those types of linoleums that are already produced with a backing. They are securely fastened to each other, and this type of flooring is much more expensive than a simple analogue that does not have a base. If you purchased expensive linoleum with quality basis, then there is no point in duplicating it.

• In all other cases, you should not neglect the substrate, especially if the old flooring is not pre-leveled, and the room needs additional thermal insulation.

Pcover for linoleum video

In order for linoleum laid on a concrete floor to last for a long time and not have to be replaced after a year, it is necessary to properly prepare the base. One of important points This preparation is the stage at which the substrate is mounted.

Why do you need a substrate?

Depending on the material, the substrate can perform several functions:

• alignment;
• thermal insulation;
• hydrobarrier;
• soundproofing.

Alignment

Linoleum is not as critical to horizontality as parquet board or laminate, but it is still better to lay it on a flat base. Leveling is important for minor differences in height (1 - 2 mm) of the concrete screed. The best material, which performs the leveling function is moisture-resistant plywood.

Thermal and waterproofing

In rooms under which there is a street or an unheated space, it is better to place materials under the finished flooring that can act as a heat insulator. All types cope with this task, but the greatest effect can be achieved when using cork, felt or jute.

Rolled foam polymers stand apart. Due to their structure, they do not allow moisture to pass through and can be successfully used in conditions high humidity as a waterproofing layer. The best thermal insulation characteristics have polymer materials, foil-coated on one or both sides.

Cork or jute except thermal insulation properties It also has good soundproofing characteristics. They block impact noise transmitted through the floors.

Material selection

A large number of materials that can be laid as a substrate on the floor under linoleum create some inconvenience when choosing a specific brand. Criteria that help determine which better material bedding are:

• price;
• durability;
• manufacturability;
• availability.

Cost and durability

The cost of the substrate varies greatly. Most budget option are foamed polymers (izolon, penoizol, penofol and the like). The most expensive is cork - a natural material consisting of compressed pieces of cork oak bark.

The durability of the material determines how long it will take to next repair. By saving, you can get a situation where in a year an expensive quality linoleum will require replacement.

Foamed polyethylene quickly collapses under the weight of heavy furniture and ceases to perform its functions. Dense varieties cork covering are able to retain their properties for up to 10 - 15 years. An intermediate position is occupied by jute, felt and linen materials.

Installation method and availability

In terms of manufacturability, all materials are approximately the same. This rolled products, which must be laid on the floor. Experts recommend making a multi-layer combined base, because a substrate consisting of several layers will work better than any one material, even if it is a universal one.

Very often, the decisive factor determining what material to put under linoleum is its availability in the nearest store. The choice is also influenced by the presence of large construction supermarkets or trading centers, where you can immediately purchase everything you need for repairs and order free delivery.

Preparing the base

A concrete floor should ideally be completely level. Unfortunately, this practically never happens in practice. Even when the screed is performed by professionals, there may be small defects (minor tubercles, depressions, cavities from escaping air bubbles).

Troubleshooting

It is best to knock down or cut off individual protruding bumps on the floor. Thus, the base for further work will be more even and will be less subject to wear in the future.

Recesses that are small in area and depth can be left untouched; they will not interfere. If the depressions are large enough, it is best to fill them with self-leveling mixtures.

Laying waterproofing

After the floor has completely hardened and dried, a layer of waterproofing must be laid on the surface of the screed. In the future, this can prevent the capillary rise of moisture from the ceiling and protect the overlying layers from getting wet.

Film installation

As the cheapest material, you can put dense plastic film. It is advisable that the floor be covered with a whole sheet of film. If it is not possible to lay a film of such dimensions, waterproofing can be done from separate rolls of smaller width.

Waterproofing is not attached to the floor. Laying and fixing subsequent layers will prevent possible movement of the film in the future. The material is rolled out over the floor surface with an overlap of at least 15 - 20 cm.

Processing of joints

The joints must be taped. Required condition there is a small overlap (2 - 3 cm) on the walls. In principle Any will do tape, even packaging tape.

The best results are achieved when using reinforced PVC tape. It has some elasticity and is more durable and durable. A tape of such material usually has gray. You can also place double-sided tape along the overlap line.

Installation of the leveling layer

Moisture resistant works very well as a leveling layer. birch plywood. With a sheet thickness of 10 to 15 mm, it is possible to obtain an even solid foundation for subsequent work. Plywood is produced in sheets measuring 1500 x 1500 mm. For ease of use and to prevent deformation, they are cut into several parts.

Installation of sheets

The sheets should be laid on the floor in such a way that there is a small (3-5 mm) compensation gap between them and the walls, which is subsequently filled with elastic sealant. To others mandatory requirement is the spacing of the seams. When installing, the sheets must be placed offset relative to each other.

Fixing the material

To prevent the plywood from moving in the future, it must be fixed. For this purpose, ordinary dowel-nails are used, with which the laid sheets are attached to concrete floor. The size of the fastener can vary in diameter from 4 to 6 mm and length from 50 to 70 mm. Using large-sized dowel-nails will be a wasteful cost overrun.

It is necessary to pay attention to the shape of the dowel. It should be fastened “in a hidden way”, i.e. flush with the surface. When using a “fungus”, the hole for installation will need to be additionally countersunk. Plywood is enough soft material and this operation can be easily performed using a countersink or a ball cutter.

Requirements for fasteners

The fastener heads should not protrude above the surface of the sheets. If this rule is broken and subsequent layers are laid immediately, then the entire substrate will be damaged. On the finished surface of the floor, bumps will first appear above the caps, and then the linoleum in these places will wipe off fairly quickly. As a result, with intensive use in these places, it will wear through.

IN drilled hole Before installing the fasteners, it is recommended to add silicone sealant. Such an operation will restore the damaged waterproofing layer.

Laying the substrate

Fixed plywood – solid foundation and you can already lay a roll of underlay on it. The roll is rolled out onto the prepared surface.

A distinctive feature is that the selected material must be laid end-to-end. Otherwise, where the overlap occurs, the linoleum will lie unevenly. The joints are taped with tape. As with waterproofing, it is better to use more reliable gray reinforced tape.

If all stages of work are performed correctly, and each layer is laid on a pre-prepared base, then linoleum will not present any unpleasant surprises in the future and will last quite a long time.

How to determine whether it is needed or not, and on what basis it is used, you will learn from this article.

Before answering the question of whether it is worth laying a substrate under linoleum, you must:

1. understand what kind of substrate it is;
2. what kind of linoleum will be laid on the floor;
3. what kind of covering was on the floor before?

Let's start with the first point in order.

Also read materials:

Types of substrates

Substrate options offered modern market building materials, a great many.

First, let's list the most popular ones:

• cork,
• linen,
• jute,
• mixed or combined,
• made of porous or foamed polymer,
• wood fiber (coniferous).

Now let's look at these types of substrates in more detail:

1. Cork backing consists of cork granules (crumbs) obtained from the bark of the cork oak tree, pressed into a canvas under pressure and temperature. This is a completely natural material that also has bactericidal properties. is an excellent heat insulator and noise absorber. Another thing is that it will sag under the influence of a mass of heavy objects. If you still decide what to do, choose the one that has the greatest rigidity.
2. The linen backing is also completely natural material(consisting of 100% flax), which is obtained using double needle punching technology. Next, the resulting product is treated with compounds that prevent combustion, formation and development of fungus. This substrate also has heat-insulating and noise-absorbing properties. Its rigidity is low, so it will definitely sag under heavy objects.
3. Jute backing. This type The substrate also consists of 100% natural substance – jute fibers. It is also obtained by punching with a needle, and then additionally rolled with rollers under the influence of high temperatures. Being processed special compounds, the substrate acquires fire-retardant qualities and properties that allow it to resist rotting and mold. This substrate also retains heat and absorbs noise, but, like the previous one, it collapses under the weight of objects placed on top.
4. Mixed backing is obtained from mixing three types of fibers - linen, jute and wool. Its manufacturing technology is similar to the previous ones. This combined substrate has a high density (from 500 to 700 g/m2 with a thickness of 2-3 mm), which increases its heat-insulating and noise-absorbing properties. Unfortunately, it will also sag a little under massive objects, although less than linen or jute.
5. Foamed or porous polymer - such a substrate has excellent heat and sound insulation properties. It is also very inexpensive for the buyer. This is where its positive qualities for laying linoleum end. Its softness does not allow it to be used under linoleum, since it will sag and crumble very much even under the weight of a person.
6. Wood fiber (coniferous) substrate is a fairly new material on the market. They get it from wood coniferous species. This substrate has excellent heat and sound insulation properties. It also collapses under the weight. In addition, feedback is often heard that after laying it on the floor it emits bad smell. They say that this smell disappears soon, so it's up to you to choose.

Types of linoleum

Now let's talk about linoleum, which will be the surface of your floor. there are quite a lot but in this case we are interested in the presence or absence of a basis:

• jute,
• fabric,
• made of foamed PVC.

When laying baseless linoleum on a concrete floor, it definitely requires a substrate, because otherwise you will feel uncomfortable being on such a floor: it will always be cold and too “loud.” Which underlay to choose depends on your financial capabilities, the expected service life of this coating and what the local market offers.

It should be remembered that the substrate should be as hard as possible and that foamed and porous polymers are, in principle, not recommended for use when laying linoleum.

As for linoleum with a base, it is therefore equipped with it in order to combine several properties. The base just replaces the substrate as such, taking on heat and sound insulation. It should be remembered that the thicker the linoleum, and its thickness mainly depends on the base, the more comfortable it will be on the floor. If you want the most comfortable linoleum floor, take the thickest one or additionally insulate the floor using underlay, plywood or fiberboard.

Another small addition: linoleum with a base, on average, has a 2 times longer service life, if we are talking, of course, about high-quality linoleum.

Linoleum - secrets of craftsmanship (video)

Basic base for linoleum

Finally, we got to the base itself, on which the linoleum will be laid.

It, as with all other types, must be smooth, dry, free of oil stains, cracks, etc.

• If linoleum is supposed to be laid on wooden floor, it also needs to be prepared. Remove all uneven surfaces and putty if necessary. This method of attaching linoleum, such as gluing, cannot be used with. Otherwise, there are 2 dangers: the glue will come into contact with chemical reaction with floor paint, which will be reflected on the surface of the linoleum, or will take the shape of the surface of the old one. It makes no sense to lay an additional underlay under a wooden floor.
• If sheets of plywood were laid on a concrete floor for insulation, then such a coating also does not need to be used. There is another danger here: since plywood is a hygroscopic material, it can move under the influence of moisture, which cannot but affect the evenness of your floor. Of course, if you are sure that the concrete floor is completely dry and the humidity in the room is not off the charts, then you don’t have to worry.
• If linoleum is placed on old tiles– the surface must also be well prepared - leveled, all seams sealed, all stains from oily liquids removed. Then the linoleum is laid.

In this article, you got acquainted with the main ones, found out on what bases the installation of a substrate is required, on which ones it is not necessary. Once again we received confirmation simple rule that the base for any type of coating, and especially for linoleum, must be carefully prepared.

Even among professionals, the question of whether a linoleum underlay is needed on a concrete floor is perplexing. The lining is a fabric base that compensates for unevenness of the subfloor, and also acts as a heat and sound insulating material.

It is advisable to use it as a base when the floor is cold and uneven, as well as when there is no base for the linoleum being laid. Another question is what kind of pad should be used to get a positive result, comfort when walking on the floor and how to lay it correctly. To do this, it is important to familiarize yourself with the materials offered and get advice from a specialist.

Types and properties of substrates

Lining products offered on the market are divided into natural and artificial. To understand which lining is applicable for the selected linoleum, we will use the instructions and understand the properties of the lining materials.

Types of lining material

The group of natural pads offers several types of materials:

• jute;
• felt;
• cork;
• combined option.

The product consists of natural jute fiber and is an environmentally friendly material. During manufacturing, the jute backing for linoleum is treated with fire retardant compounds to protect the material from possible fire and antiseptic from rotting.

Temperature treatment when rolling the fiber through the rollers of the machine changes the structure, and in this regard the product becomes rigid and dense. Process gave the properties of the jute gasket protection against allergies, enhancing the bactericidal properties of jute.

The gasket is made with a thickness of 2–5 mm and is a heat insulator, compensates for uneven floors, and prevents the appearance of microbes and insects under the floor covering.

Felt pad

The felt backing must be treated with special means

Dense wool material is made by drying. Wool fibers treated with steam are connected to each other, acquiring the integrity of the fabric. Fire retardant and antiseptic solutions added during the production process provide protection against possible rotting and fire of the material.

With a felt backing, linoleum is made, which has become softer and more elastic, and a separate felt pad is not often used. The positive properties of the material include environmental friendliness, low thermal conductivity, abrasion resistance, and antibacterial properties.

Linen gasket

The technological process for making a product from flax is similar to jute. Linen gasket has environmental and anti-allergenic properties.

The material is durable and wear-resistant, hygroscopic, and capable of thermoregulation. Under linoleum, the flax substrate does not rot, and mold does not appear on it, since the material is treated with an antiseptic during manufacturing.

Linen pad supports optimal humidity indoors due to the ability to exchange air.

Cork lining

This material is environmentally friendly

The lining is made from crushed cork tree bark. The cork crumbs are dried in special ovens. Due to high temperature The cork particles stick together, and after pressing and processing, a high-quality cork substrate is obtained.

The material has environmental purity, moisture resistance, sound insulation, shock-absorbing and insulating properties against heat loss.

Combined substrate

Several types of insulation can be installed at once

The lining made of flax, jute and wool materials, used in the product in equal proportions, belongs to the combined type. It has the positive qualities of the components in the composition; improved thermal and sound insulation properties.

Wear resistance, moisture resistance, strength, coating density allow us to talk about good option lining material. A layer of combined lining placed under the linoleum provides protection for the coating and retains heat in the room.

The substrate brought from the store must acclimatize in the room, for which the rolls are rolled out onto the surface and kept at room temperature for a day. The straightened material will be much easier to lay on the base of the floor.

The group of artificial substrates includes synthetic materials

• polymer lining;
• foil lining.

Polymer lining

The group of foamed polystyrene lining includes: isolon, expanded polystyrene, penofol, penoizol, polyethylene foam, extruded polystyrene foam. The listed lining materials have moisture resistance, low thermal conductivity, and sound insulation.

The strength of polymer bases allows them to be used when laying laminate, but under linoleum the gasket wrinkles and loses its properties. positive properties, does not level the coating.

The foil also has heat-reflecting properties

The gasket consists of connected layers of isolon or polystyrene and aluminum foil. The thickness of the substrate from 2 to 5 mm allows the use of the lining in rooms with low temperatures.

The foil type of backing is used to insulate linoleum coverings. The aluminum foil layer gives the material moisture resistance and strength, and increases resistance to temperature changes.

The product should be laid on the base of the floor with the foil layer facing up. The reflected heat from the foil remains in the floor covering, while the polystyrene foam layer insulates sound.

When choosing linoleum, you need to know that a multilayer product with a felt or foam base does not require additional lining. The lining is used on a concrete base and for surface defects that are difficult to eliminate.

Comparative characteristics

Name linings	Thermal conductivity W/m*k	Tensile elasticity limit kgf/cm2	Density kg/m3
Jute	0,035 – 0,037	1,0	25
Linen	0,038 – 0,041	1,43	20
Cork	0,045	1,0	100
Combined	0,036 – 0,04	1,2	23
Foil	0,08 -0,12	2,5 – 4,0	33-150
Extruded polystyrene foam	0,036	5,0	45

Having chosen a single-layer linoleum coating, we use an underlay to smooth out the imperfections of the wooden floor. Before laying the underlayment, it is necessary to prepare the wooden base.

Remove the baseboards, secure the warped floor slats and plan the edges of the boards protruding above the floor surface, remove any loose paint from the surface of the base, plan the base covering of the boards and wash the floor.

To protect the floor from moisture, the wood is primed with an antiseptic compound, and the cracks are filled with putty.

On a wooden floor under linoleum, a backing made of jute, flax or combined type. The properties of these materials will ensure the safety of the linoleum coating. After the primer has dried, lay the lining starting from the wall and fix it with staples using a stapler. For more information on preparing the foundation, watch this video:

The joints of the lining rows are sealed with tape. Lay the substrate on the bed layer finishing coat from linoleum.

A primer should be applied to the finished base for better adhesion of the surface to the material

For linoleum laid on a concrete base, a foil lining is used. Preparation of the concrete floor surface begins with checking for horizontalness using laser level. If the base defects cannot be corrected, a concrete screed is performed along the exposed beacons.

After the screed has hardened, a layer of primer is applied to the base to improve the adhesion of the leveling coating to the concrete. You can place a substrate on the dried primer after first removing the protective film.

Lay the substrate with the reflective layer of foil facing up. The adhesive base of the lining is pressed against the concrete, the laid rows are joined, and the seams are closed with foil tape.

Before laying on the substrate, the linoleum is laid out on the floor surface and allowed to sit so that the coating straightens from the bends of transportation. Then the linoleum needs to be laid on the substrate according to the instructions.

It is important to know that when laying linoleum on a concrete floor appearance coating will depend on the condition of the base surface. The lack of a horizontal level and unevenness of the surface layer of concrete will lead to premature wear of the mat. Defects on the surface of the subfloor reduce the service life of linoleum several times.