Wind energy resources in the Russian segment occupy an ambiguous position. The use of such devices is considered from two sides. With one homemade windmill- This great solution to save energy mechanically. This is facilitated by the endless plains, where there is a constant wind speed and sufficient potential energy is accumulated, which is later converted into kinetic energy with the help of a windmill. However, in some regions of the vast country, winds have weak potential due to uneven and slow impacts. In the northern regions there is a third side, where violent and unpredictable winds run rampant. Each home owner can maintain his own windmill on the farm. Buying such a device is expensive, so it’s better to create a wind generator with your own hands. Let's decide: which one specific type is a windmill more suitable and for what purposes is it chosen?
You can make a wind generator with your own hands from empty bottlesRegardless of whether you choose a vertical wind generator, rotary wind turbine or other type, schematic device The product has the following similar components:
- Current generator (available option is used).
- Blades (made of hard material that is incapable of corrosion and deformation during operation)
- A tower lift is necessary to raise the installation to the desired level.
- Optionally, additional batteries with an electronic control system are installed.
It is easier and cheaper to assemble wind generators with your own hands with a rotor or an axial design with magnets. To choose the right one, let's study the device of each.
Windmill 1 - rotor type design
A homemade wind generator with a rotary turbine is made of two, less often four, blades. It has a simple design, which is why it can be made independently from scrap materials. Such a wind generator for a home will not provide the required amount of electricity to a two-story country cottage. Power wind generator enough to supply electricity to a small one. A wind turbine for a private home is used to supply lighting to outbuildings adjacent to the household, house lights, lamps, a breeze heater, a hairdryer, a refrigerator and others.
Preparation of parts and consumables
Depending on the power of the do-it-yourself wind generator, select the appropriate generator for the windmill. We will look at do-it-yourself windmills with a power of up to 5 kW. It’s easy to make a wind generator with your own hands with a rotor. To do this, we will prepare the following materials:
- Automotive 12 volt. To create the device, an acid or gel battery from a car is used.
- Voltage regulator for converting alternating currents: 12 –> 220 volts.
Homemade voltage regulator for converting alternating currents: 12 –> 220 volts - Overall capacity. Suitable options: stainless steel pan or aluminum bucket.
- Charger. We use a relay removed from the car.
- 12 volt switch.
- Charge lamp with controller.
- Bolts M16×70 mm with nuts and washers.
- A simple voltmeter of any configuration from an unused measuring device.
- Three-core electric cable with a cross-section of at least 2.5 mm 2.
- with rubberized lining. Will be needed when attaching the generator to the load-bearing matcha.
To make electric generators for 220 with your own hands you will need a standard set installation tools: grinder with discs, marker, screwdriver, drill with drills, metal scissors, set of spanners, gas wrenches No. 1,2,3, wire cutters, tape measure.
Progress of design work
To create a windmill design, the rotor is initially prepared. The next step is to modify the generator pulley. A metal container is used as a rotor: a pan or bucket. Using a tape measure and a marker, measure out four equal parts. Then we make holes at the ends of the drawn lines to make dividing into component parts easier. Cut the container with metal scissors. If there are none, we perform the same actions with a grinder. From the resulting parts we cut out the blades of the future rotor, but not completely cutting through the workpiece.
Cutting containers or products with thin tin walls is not allowed, as the material will overheat and become deformed.
The rotor blades must match each other in sizeTo make the windmill out car generator worked correctly, the rotor blades must match each other in size. As an option, you can create a generator from a starter yourself. Therefore, measurements require careful checks.
Now we prepare the generator for the windmill with our own hands. First of all, we determine the direction of rotation of the pulley. To do this, use back-and-forth movements of the hand to twist it left and right. According to the standard, it rotates clockwise, but there are exceptions to the rules. At the next stage, we connect the rotor part to the generator. Using a drill, we make even holes in the bottom of the container and the generator pulley.
The holes should be symmetrically located. Otherwise there is a risk of imbalance in the rotor movement.
We bend the edges of the blades slightly to increase the speed of rotation from the wind. The greater the bending angle, the more efficiently the rotor unit perceives air flows. Rotor blades are made not only from a container. You can make blades for a wind generator with your own hands in the form of separate parts that are connected to a metal blank in the shape of a circle. In such models it is easier to carry out renovation work for the restoration of individual impellers.
To connect the generator, we take a container with manufactured blades and securely attach it to the generator pulley with bots M16x70 mm or smaller in diameter. Now assembled structure completely installed on the mast. We fix it in accessible places with metal clamps. We mount electrical wiring and assemble a closed circuit. Each contact is connected to the corresponding connector. If necessary, pre-write down the markings and color of each wire separately. We attach the wiring to the mast with wire.
After complete assembly mechanical design, all that remains is to connect the inverter (voltage converter), battery and load (instrumentation and lighting). To connect the battery and inverter we use electrical cable with a cross-section of 3 mm 2 and a length of 1 meter, and for other peripheral loads a cable with a cross-section of 2 mm 2 is suitable. Assembled windmill ready for use with your own hands.
Do-it-yourself low-power wind generator based on a drillAdvantages and disadvantages of this model
At correct assembly All components, do-it-yourself wind generators from a car generator will serve for a long time without a single problem. The design, powered by a 75-amp battery with a 1000 W converter installed, will provide the amount of electricity for stable operation street lighting or video surveillance devices. The advantages also include: comparatively low price for components for a wind turbine, maintainability, lack of additional conditions for correct operation and low noise design. For example, low-noise 5 kW vertical wind generators are quieter than modern refrigerators.
The disadvantages are obvious: weak electrical performance, low strength, dependence on sudden changes in wind speed, which leads to frequent breakdown blades.
Windmill 2 - axial design with magnets
Do-it-yourself 220V wind generators with neodymium magnets are called axial wind turbines. The design of such structures is based on non-iron stators with attached magnets. Due to the fact that the cost of the latter has dropped several times, it has become easier to make a magnet generator with your own hands. The model of this windmill will allow you to get more electrical energy, rather than self-created rotary electric generators.
What needs to be prepared?
What is a wind generator, device and principle of operationThe main element of the mechanical design of an axial generator is the wheel hub of a passenger car along with brake discs, which will become the future rotor. If the part was previously used for its intended purpose, then it should be prepared. To do this, we disassemble the hub into its component parts and clean the internal and external walls of the element from rust with a metal brush. We carefully lubricate each bearing. Now we assemble the hub in reverse order.
Distributing and securing magnets
To attach neodymium magnets to the rotor brake discs, prepare 20 units rectangular shape with dimensions 25×8 mm.
In magnets with a round structure, the magnetic field is located in the center, and in rectangular ones along the length.
An even number of magnets form poles. We arrange them, alternating one at a time across the entire disk area. In order to find out where the magnet's plus and minus are, we take one of them, and we lean the rest against it, first with one side and then with the other. If they are magnetized, then use a marker to put a plus on this side and vice versa. When increasing the number of poles, we are guided by the following rules:
- For single-phase generators, the sum of the poles equals the number of magnets.
- For three-phase, the proportion ratio is 4/3 for units of magnets and poles, as well as 2/3 for poles to coils, respectively.
To accurately distribute the magnets around the circumference of the brake disc, we use a template drawn on a piece of paper. We glue the magnets with strong glue and then fix them with epoxy resin.
Three-phase and single-phase generators
A single-phase stator is comparatively worse than its three-phase counterparts. Due to the variability in current output, high amplitude fluctuations occur in the electrical network, which is why single-phase devices produce vibration. IN three-phase generators the current load is compensated from one phase to another. Thanks to this, the power in such a network is always constant. Vibration effects negatively affect the design as a whole, therefore, the service life of single-phase generators is much shorter than that of three-phase ones. Another advantage of the three-phase model is the absence of noise during operation.
Coil winding process
Before we start winding the wire onto the generator coils, we make sure that the moment the battery starts charging at 12 volts should occur at a nominal value of 110 rpm. Using these data, we calculate required quantity turns in a single coil: 12*110/N, where N is the number of coils. For winding we use exclusively wires with a large cross-section. This will decrease the resistance units and increase the current.
Mast and propeller
The height of the mast should be about 6-12 meters. Formwork is poured under the base of the mast and then concreted. We attach a screw to the top part, which can be made from pipes PVC diameter 160 mm and at least 2 meters long. We cut out six two-meter plates from it. We fix the resulting feint at the top of the mast. We strengthen the mast itself with the help of cables nailed on one side and on the other to the body of the structure.
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Features of wind turbine operation
Any of the two windmill models presented is suitable for use as an alternative source of electricity. In the manufacture of such a device, any 220V generator can be used. For example, a do-it-yourself wind generator made from wood has a long service life. A wind generator made from a screwdriver is one of the most simple options windmill Owners country houses will appreciate such an invention. Each type of wind generator has a set individual benefits and shortcomings. The degree of effectiveness of a particular design may vary for different regions our country. Such a source of electricity will not hurt, especially if such equipment is used on flat terrain with high intensity wind.
Humanity has always strived to create alternative ways electricity production. The result of these aspirations were solar and smoke generators, as well as other devices that make it possible to generate electricity in a non-standard way. This material will provide an overview of a video on the manufacture of such a generator, which will allow you to generate electricity.
We will need:
- several ice trays;
- apple cider vinegar;
- copper wires;
- nails;
- wire cutters.
First you need to cut the copper wires into 5 cm pieces. This can be done with bare hands, but to make the job easier, we recommend using wire cutters.
Next, the resulting pieces need to be thoroughly twisted and screwed onto top part nail. These nails with wire need to be made according to the number of cells of the mold, so we advise you to be patient. The author, for example, has 32 cells and uses 16 nails.
Next, pour the apple cider vinegar into the ice cube trays. You need to fill it about halfway, but it’s okay if you poured a little more, since you can drain off the excess vinegar using a tube.
Next, we take nails with copper wire and place them in molds so that there is one nail and one wire in one mold, with the exception of the two outer cells. For greater clarity, we present the final result in the figure below.
The author's test using a multimeter showed that such a generator produces 2.5 volts. You can increase the voltage of a homemade generator by adding vinegar to the free cells and adding nails. Adding vinegar to 4 cells increased the power by 1 volt. To connect the LED you need 4.5 - 5 volts, so you will have to pour vinegar into 16 cells.
Let's move on to connecting the LED. It is enough to dip the contacts of the LED light bulb into the outer cells of vinegar to make it light up.
The author's test using all 32 cells showed that such a generator can produce 12 volts. Increasing the concentration of vinegar can increase the voltage.
Local power grids are not always able to fully provide electricity to homes, especially when it comes to country dachas and mansions. Interruptions in the constant power supply or its complete absence forces us to look for electricity. One of these is to use - a device capable of converting and storing electricity, using for this the most unusual resources (energy, tides). Its operating principle is quite simple, which makes it possible to make an electric generator with your own hands. Maybe, homemade model will not be able to compete with its factory-assembled counterpart, but this is a great way to save more than 10,000 rubles. If we consider homemade electric generator As a temporary alternative source of power supply, it is quite possible to make do with a homemade one.
How to make an electric generator, what is required for this, as well as what nuances will have to be taken into account, we will find out further.
The desire to have an electric generator for your use is overshadowed by one nuisance - this is high cost of the unit. Whatever one may say, the lowest-power models have a fairly exorbitant cost - from 15,000 rubles and above. It is this fact that suggests self-created generator However, he himself the process can be difficult, If:
- no skill in working with tools and diagrams;
- there is no experience in creating such devices;
- the necessary parts and spare parts are not available.
If all this and a great desire are present, then you can try to build a generator, guided by the assembly instructions and the attached diagram.
It is no secret that a purchased electric generator will have a more expanded list of capabilities and functions, while a homemade one is capable of failing and malfunctioning at the most inopportune moments. Therefore, whether to buy or do it yourself is a purely individual question that requires a responsible approach.
How does an electric generator work?
The operating principle of an electric generator is based on the physical phenomenon of electromagnetic induction. A conductor passing through an artificially created electromagnetic field creates a pulse, which is converted into direct current.
The generator has an engine that is capable of generating electricity by burning a certain type of fuel in its compartments:, or. In turn, the fuel, entering the combustion chamber, produces gas during the combustion process, which rotates the crankshaft. The latter transmits an impulse to the driven shaft, which is already capable of providing a certain amount of output energy.
If suddenly a situation arises in your life when you urgently need to convert 12V to 220V or even use a different voltage range, you can always adapt electric motors for this. Any engine can work as a generator. For example, DC motors are easy to spin up and they already generate energy due to the built-in magnets. But for AC motors or motors without magnets, you need to apply voltage to the winding to start.
Today we will look at how to make a simple voltage converter based on two motors. Of course, this technology has low efficiency and a short service life when compared with transformers and various electronics. Here you need to overcome frictional forces in the bearings, energy is lost in the cooling fan, and so on. But such a converter does not require knowledge in electronics, there is no need to solder the board for a long time, anyone can quickly assemble it. In the homemade product, two motors were used, one 12V, in this example it is a 775 motor, it is quite powerful and well suited for homemade work. And the second motor of similar dimensions is 220V, which works as a generator, producing 50 W of energy. The whole thing is powered by a 12V battery. So, let's take a closer look at how to make such a converter!
Materials and tools that were used by the author:
List of materials:
- ;
- 220V (judging by the description, brushless);
- rectifier (optional);
- 12V battery;
- cardan transmission;
- plywood;
- two sockets;
- wires;
- heat shrinkage;
- screws;
- steel clamps.
List of tools:
- screwdriver;
- soldering iron;
- scissors;
- lighter;
- multimeter.
Generator manufacturing process:
Step one. Installing motors
First of all, install the engines on the base. First we connect their shafts; for this the author used a cardan drive. Thanks to this, we will avoid vibrations that will be generated during uneven docking. Instead of a cardan drive, it is quite possible to use a piece of hose, clamping it on the shafts with steel clamps.
Now you can install the engines on a base, which is a piece of plywood or board. We use steel clamps and screws for fastening. You can make the clamps yourself from thin steel, for example, from a tin can.
Step two. Let's install sockets
In total, the author decided to install two sockets. In one we will have alternating voltage, and in the other constant. This will be needed for experiments. But of course, most often AC voltage is used in everyday life. We attach the sockets to the base with screws and immediately sign where the voltage will be.
Step three. Connecting the generator wires
The author decided to solder the wires from the generator to a rectifier, at the output of which we will receive a constant voltage. We insulate the contacts thoroughly using heat shrink. Next, we attach two wires from the rectifier to a socket with constant voltage. We also attach two more wires directly from the generator to the contacts of the AC outlet.
That's all, now screw the socket covers into place. The straightener also needs to be securely fastened by screwing it to the base.
Step four. The final stage of assembly
Let's attach the battery to the base; for these purposes, the author decided to use a double-sided duct tape. We solder wires to the contacts of motor 775, at the ends of which we install terminals for connecting the battery. That's all, our converter is ready, we can proceed to testing!
Step five. Let's test our converter!
To start the device, we connect the battery to our 12V motor, in this case it is a 775 motor. As soon as it starts working, the generator will begin to produce a voltage of just over 220V. These numbers will depend on how quickly the motor rotates the generator shaft; it is advisable to make a speed controller. When the author measured the multimeter in an AC outlet, the figure 280 Volts appeared.
As an experiment, we connect light bulbs to an AC outlet, the author lights up without any problems led lamp, a fluorescent light bulb, as well as a 40 W incandescent lamp! As for the DC outlet, a fluorescent lamp works here, as well as an incandescent lamp. An interesting fact is that an incandescent lamp shines brighter from direct voltage than from alternating voltage. The fact is that with alternating voltage the filament either heats up or cools down, and as a result the light bulb does not shine at full power. But with constant current, the filament burns at a stable temperature, which is why it shines at maximum.
The final stage was checking the generator using chargers. The author first charged mobile phone, and then a laptop. The homemade product turned out to be quite working.
That's all, I hope you liked the project and you found something new for yourself. Good luck and inspiration in making your own projects. Don't forget to share your work with us.
"I blinded you from what was..." :)
Has anyone ever encountered a situation where a smartphone curses because the battery is low, and as luck would have it, the lights were turned off? I think many. Or is it the same story with your favorite netbook, which has 12 volt power? Or do you need an autonomous light source, as independent as possible from the presence or absence of voltage in the network? Unfortunately, it made me think about creating such a device civil war, walking almost on the threshold of my house :(
Thank God, I know how to use a soldering iron, in the closet there is a whole box of electronic junk that has nowhere to put, and it’s a pity to throw it away, and then a video with a similar thing came across on the Internet man-made miracle, from which toggle switches, bolts and contacts stuck out in all directions. But it worked, and it worked great! This, I think, is exactly what is needed. The author of the video did not specifically reveal the scheme, but it is not too complicated. I'm sorry, I'm not an artist from the word "bad" :)
As a body, I used a Chinese Delux REL 500LED lamp, which had been killed by two years of use.
The battery there, instead of the standard 4 hours, lasted a maximum of 15 minutes, but out of natural female hamsterism, I decided not to throw it away, but to supplement it with two batteries from dead mobile phones. The result was a sufficiently capacious battery to operate as a night light all night. Stepper motor from old dot matrix printer found at the bottom of the box. The diode bridges could be assembled independently from Schottky 5818 diodes, or torn from old flashlights, but I used ready-made assemblies in one 2W10 housing. The only thing I had to buy were two capacitors with a total capacity of 11,000 microfarads and voltage stabilizers 7805 and 142EN8B; I couldn’t find such parts in my flea market. Capacitor C3 was taken from an old charger. I also needed two three-position switches, one of which was kindly provided by a gutted lamp, and the other borrowed from an old flashlight, and a couple of meters of thin two-color wire. What I didn't have was a drill. One of the relatives took it “for temporary use” and never returned it. But the need for invention is cunning; in the presence of self-tapping screws, a soldering iron and a sea of duct tape, the matter was solved without it.
All. It was just a matter of design and implementation.
From the very beginning I didn’t want to attach the lantern to the body. There’s not much space there anyway, and the LEDs also get hot. Therefore, I decided to output 5 volts to USB port and lamps on the corresponding plugs. By the way, we found a use for the removed LED panel and it turned out to be a bright lamp.
One drawback - after 40 minutes the panel drains the battery by half. I also made a night light and a regular lantern on flexible legs. I adapted the 12 volt output to the connector from which past life The lamp power supply was powered. Shaft stepper motor It fit perfectly into the hole for the nail, slightly widened with a knife (the thrifty Chinese planned to hang the lamp on the wall), but the hole for the pin of the transmission mechanism had to be melted with a soldering iron, simultaneously scolding forgetful relatives. No problem, I did it. And I made the lever for the gear wheel from a piece of a bicycle spoke and a piece of thin plastic tube.
The lamp and charger worked properly, the battery from the engine was charging quite happily, as indicated by the green LED. By the way, it not only signals charging, but also prevents capacitors from “pulling” from the battery. And then I became lazy to turn the handle for half an hour every time. Having disassembled my monster, I soldered in another USB port, taken from an extension cord chewed by a cat, and soldered a USB plug from the same cord to an old mobile phone charger. And it charges the device perfectly if there is 220 volts in the network. The only condition- the “5v - 12v” switch must be in the neutral position. In these photos there is a generator, charger, diagram and set of lamps “for all occasions”, including led strip at 12 volts.
In addition, a fully working Chinese rechargeable flashlight with recharging from the mains was taken out of the box. “As if” - because the plug was clearly assembled by a blind Chinese man on the night shift: in principle, these stumps did not reach any socket. I threw the plug, capacitor and diode bridge into the treasured junk drawer; they will come in handy again; I soldered the USB port directly to the battery and stuck it in place of the plug. It charges both from a generator and from the mains, and it charges mobile phones with a battery of no more than 1300 milliamps/hour quite well. It really shines for 8 hours, although the Chinese didn’t deceive us here...
