The times when the stove in the bathhouse was heated black are long gone. A chimney now rises proudly above each steam room, like a spire. But this component of the design, however, has something to be proud of - thanks to the pipe, the room quickly warms up, and vacationers in it are protected from smoke, soot and suffocation. Special attention requires a ceiling trim for the chimney, which is the fire insurance of the structure and the custodian of your property. Let's talk about her.

Purpose and functions of the chimney

Before we start learning how to build a passage through the ceiling for a chimney, it wouldn’t hurt to get to know the main “hero” for whom, in fact, this work is being carried out. So, you already understand that the chimney is important and necessary. Why? How does it function? Thanks to this miracle pipe, the furnace already gets clean air, separated from gases.

Where do the harmful compounds that appear as a result of burning wood go? They go through the pipe into the sky. Moreover, without any motors, levers, current or intervention of human hands, but in a simple way - under the influence of traction of natural origin. Here is a magical device that seems extremely simple, but to achieve this natural simplicity, you will have to work hard. Are you ready?

Immutable rules

What are the requirements for the chimney and its passage through the ceiling of the bathhouse?

So, remember this important list:

• the most suitable pipe length is 5 meters;
• the prefabricated structure should not contain protrusions (the main guideline is the vertical position);
• the optimal height above the roof level is up to 1.5 meters (otherwise stretch marks will be required);
• the distance between the pipe and the ceilings must be at least 13 cm with cutting the passage and 30 cm without it;
• Smoke elements cannot be joined in roof or ceiling structures;
• contact of the pipe with communications (plumbing, ventilation, wiring, sewerage) is unacceptable.

This is important to know! To avoid unforeseen situations, inspect the chimney at least once a year. An excess of soot, accumulation of soot at seams and joints can damage the structure.

Work plan

Now that you are familiar with the design and the basic requirements for it, you can learn how to construct a chimney passage through the ceiling. Learn a step-by-step case study:

1. Surface cutting and marking.
2. Box installation.
3. Installation of sheet.
4. Arrangement (insulation) of the opening.

This, as you understand, is a theory that needs to be put into practice, and that’s what we’ll do.

Practical lessons

And now about each action in detail.

Some pioneers in bathhouse construction are wondering: how to determine the location of the pipe? To avoid further frustration, remember: this location is determined at the stage of drawing up the steam room design.

When marking, it is important to determine the vertical axis of the pipe. The beginning of the layout is the outlet pipe coming from the stove. The axis starting from this structural element, resting on the ceiling, is the center of the skylight that you have to make. If the steam room has an attic, then the axis extends all the way to the roof.

And don’t forget about the rule: the distance from the chimney to the ceiling is at least 13 cm.

Worth paying attention! Before installation, structural elements (pipes, adapters, bends, etc.) must be prepared. Remove the film, stickers, price tags (which many people forget to do) and degrease the surface of the parts.

What dimensions should the ceiling trim for the chimney have? Many people think that these parameters depend on the materials from which the chimney is made. This is not so, the only important thing is that the structure does not touch the ceiling, but is not too far from it, since the hole will be difficult to repair, and besides, the heat that is so necessary in the steam room may subsequently evaporate through it.

You probably already remember about the gap of 13 cm, now understand one more indicator - the thickness of the insulating sandwich should not exceed 5 cm. Are you afraid that the insulation will slip out and fall down? Don't worry, the iron sheet that you attach to the bottom will serve as insurance against such situations.

This is important to know! When buying iron sheets, keep in mind that galvanized material is not very suitable for a bathhouse, because heated zinc is a source harmful substances, formed after the decay of a substance.

Many people confuse the purpose of the insulating layer, thinking that it is done for beauty, to make it cozy inside. Not only that, its main mission is to protect the steam room from fire and cold. The ideal materials are fiberglass, asbestos, mineral or basalt wool.

However, insulating the hole is not enough; you need to additionally create a heat-reflecting screen around the chimney, which we already briefly mentioned above. A piece of polished stainless steel, ideally with a mirror coating, will do an excellent job as a screen. Creating the greatest possible reflective effect for infrared waves is your goal when installing an iron surface.

To reduce the opening, a ceiling-passage assembly is constructed, providing a kind of air gap, which serves as additional insurance against heat leakage from the steam room.

Construction assembly details

You already know the wisdom of the process, let's assemble the device? So, the cutting of the bath consists of:

A galvanized box with parameters 40x40 cm is installed from the attic side. And from the inside of the bathhouse, an iron sheet is attached to it, the dimensions reaching 50x50 cm. The pipe at the lining is covered with a clamp in order to avoid stress on the stove. And only after that, insulation is placed into the hollow part of the body - usually the surface is covered with insulation and covered with expanded clay. Then you can install the final fragment - part of the pipe going through the roof to the street.

Worth paying attention! In order for the chimney to serve for a long time, the joints of the clamps should be sealed, and parts of the structure susceptible to corrosion should be coated with heat-resistant paint.

Ceiling cutting for the chimney is a troublesome, but necessary stage of the bathhouse construction work.

The passage of the chimney through the ceiling between floors - ceiling cutting - is one of the most critical stages in the construction of a bathhouse. This is due to the high frequency of fires due to fire wooden structures near the chimneys, which is exactly what the floors and ceilings in bathhouses are like.

Pipe passage through the ceiling of the bathhouse

Safety regulations dictate the need to avoid unprotected contact between a hot pipe and flammable materials. To comply with them, when installing a chimney in a bathhouse, you need to build a special ceiling passage unit in the form of a box using fire-retardant materials, and carry it out in strict accordance with the standards.

You can make a passage through the ceiling with your own hands

Fire safety standards and regulations

Any developer can become familiar with what chimney equipment is considered safe according to SNiP 41-01-2003.

Construction norms and rules of the Russian Federation SNiP 41-01-2003

We are interested in clause 6.6.22, which dictates a setback of 130 mm in the area of ​​passage through the floors for a brick pipe made with wood protection. It is known that brick and concrete pipes have lower heat transfer than modern metal ones, which are most often used in baths. This means that when arranging the cutting of a single-walled metal pipe without thermal protection, you should be guided by other deviation numbers that are indicated in Appendix “K”:

• 500 mm to wood without thermal protection;
• 380 mm from the heated pipe to the flammable pipe behind a layer of thermal insulation.

These figures should be considered as distances from the smoke inside the chimney to the tree.

Errors in arranging a ceiling passage assembly

Manufacturers of stoves and chimneys provide documentation that necessarily indicates the possible value of the distances to the ceilings from various materials. They should be followed when independent construction passage of the bath pipe through the ceiling.

What materials can be used for fire protection when installing polyurethane foam?

Both brick, ceramic, and metal parts of interfloor cutting units are heated to temperatures that create a risk of wood fire. To reliably isolate the flammable elements of the ceiling pie, you need to make a gasket made of protective materials.

These are materials that can protect wooden parts from charring and fire during high temperatures in a high heating zone. But the primary lining of the ends of the floor, if the necessary indents are observed, can be carried out not only by them. For these purposes, it is allowed to use materials with flammability class G1 (low flammability).

Glass-magnesium sheet (GML)

The choice of thermal insulator can play a decisive role. It should be remembered that ordinary mineral wool, which is sometimes recommended to be used for filling the passage unit, sinteres when heated and quickly loses its fire-retardant properties.

U stone wool fiber sintering temperature – over 1000ºС

High temperature leads to a change in its structure - while remaining unchanged in appearance, it can heat up significantly and can no longer cope with thermal insulation. To ensure reliable thermal insulation of the chimney, you must use basalt wool, designed for operation at temperatures of 800-1000°C.

An example of insulating a ceiling groove with basalt wool

The PPU box is filled with heat-insulating basalt fiber

It is also safe to lay mineralite, asbestos or basalt cardboard. There is also a time-tested budget option thermal protection - sand was used for it (the passage box was filled with it) and clay. For example, sufficient thermal insulation of the part of the ceiling to which the box is attached is achieved by applying an even layer of clay about 2 cm thick to a metal sheet with a flange.

Comparison of materials for fire resistance

Features of using a “sandwich” chimney when passing through the ceiling of a bathhouse

Modern metal sauna stoves are often supplemented steel pipes made of ferrous or stainless metal. Wanting to reduce hard IR radiation and make the contact point between the chimney and the ceiling above the stove safer, bathhouse owners use a “sandwich” - a double pipe with a thermal insulation layer.

Important! In no case should the connection of the chimney elements be at the level of the ceiling passage.

Contrary to established opinion, the outer casing of the sandwich is made of stainless steel not much colder than the main chimney. This pipe design, in principle, does not serve to protect the bathhouse from fire - the sandwich provides the best conditions for stable traction, which is precisely its main task. When considering fire protection measures, one should not hope that the use of a sandwich at the passage point makes it possible to reduce the distance of indentations.

It is known that due to the burning out of volatile compounds in the pipe itself, the temperature in it increases for some time as the altitude increases. If at the level of the furnace exit the gases have a temperature of 800°C, at a level of 1.5-2 m the measurements will already show 850°C. The outer casing under these conditions can be heated to 300°C, as evidenced by the tarnished colors on its surface.

Wanting to heat the bathhouse faster, overheating the stove, it is easy to exceed the optimal regime for the passage of combustion products through the pipe. According to the standards of the Ministry of Emergency Situations, the temperature in stainless steel chimneys should not exceed 400°C; tests for certification are carried out precisely at these values. Most steam lovers far exceed these parameters. The metal quickly burns out due to overheating, and you need to understand that the sandwich can turn into a single-walled sandwich at any moment. The insulation with which the sandwich is stuffed also does not serve as a panacea for fire. If you assemble a chimney “for smoke” and not “for moisture”, the thermal insulator heats up during combustion, and after cooling it is saturated with condensate - as a result, over time it loses its useful properties.

All of the above leads to a certain conclusion - you should not frivolously reduce the recommended indents, hoping for protective cover sandwich.

Drawing of a ceiling passage unit

Important: when using metal furnaces and stainless steel chimneys when installing a ceiling passage, the optimal distance from smoke to wooden structures is 380 mm!

Stages of ceiling cutting installation

The main tasks that the builder faces when arranging the passage of a chimney through the ceiling of a bathhouse are fire protection for the ceiling and an even vertical installation of the pipe. The work takes place in three stages:

• determination and arrangement of the location of the cutting unit;
• installation of a ready-made or self-made protective casing;
• final thermal protection gasket.

This general rules, and specific methods of work depend on many factors - the allocated budget, preferences in the choice of materials, even on whether the technologies were followed during the construction of the bathhouse.

Preparing a place for the chimney passage through the ceiling

The center of the pipe passage is determined using a plumb line. The cutout is made according to the markings, slightly reducing the size of the sides so that the future decorative panel completely covered it.

A self-made passage, as a rule, is decorated on the steam room side with a sheet of metal - galvanized or stainless steel, which also serves as a heat shield. The dimensions of the sheet must exceed the size of the cutout for the pipe.

1. Vertical chimney will pass through both the ceiling and the roof. When marking the chimney, you should start from the highest point and use a plumb line.
2. When using ready-made polyurethane foam structures, they are guided by the hole sizes recommended by the manufacturer.
3. By passing the chimney through the ceiling independently, without an industrially manufactured unit, a preliminary calculation of the passage duct is made. Strictly above the passage of the pipe in the ceiling pie, it is necessary to make a through hole, the dimensions of which allow the required indentations to be observed. They are calculated as follows: for example, a pipe diameter of 120 mm, a sandwich with 50 mm insulation will pass through the ceiling. The resulting outer size is 230 mm. We will find the permissible distance by adding the two distances of indents with the internal diameter to the smoke. According to safety standards, this is 2*380+120=880 mm.

Important! It's good if the exact location sauna stove and the chimney is thought out during the preparation of the project. In this case, it is easy to calculate the installation of load-bearing floor beams in order to provide the necessary space for the safe passage of pipes between them.

Construction of an opening for the chimney

Otherwise, the first thing you need to start work with is changing the design of the ceiling above the stove. Part of the beam that is too close to the hot chimney is cut out and strengthened by installing jumpers firmly attached to the resulting ends. Then the ceiling is covered.

Installation of a finished cutting unit - feedthrough pipe

The advantages of using a factory design are the ease of installation and the obviously aesthetic appearance of the ceiling in the steam room.

It is assumed that a sandwich will be used as a chimney when inserted into the finished polyurethane foam. The dimensions of standard devices are small to ensure reliable insulation of a single-wall chimney.

Ceiling passage units of various configurations are available for sale. The design is based on a rectangular or round section, rigidly connected to a sheet that serves both for protection from heat from below and for decorative finishing. In the center there is a cutout for the pipe; the unit is selected according to its diameter. Ready-made walk-through structures are made of metal, most often stainless steel, and mineralite, with or without a thermal insulator gasket. The best in terms of their properties are combined ones, having an internal metal box and an external mineralite box with an air fireproof layer between them.

Install the floor passage unit in this way.

1. The ends of the hole cut in the ceiling are covered with a layer of heat insulation, beating wood around the perimeter.
2. The bottom sheet of the device and all places of possible contact between metal and wood are laid with a non-flammable layer sheet material. Good ones here: mineralite, asbestos and foil basalt cardboard.
3. Put on the knee that will be in the passage unit. finished design and bring it to the hole cut in the ceiling. From the steam room below, the finished unit is secured to the ceiling with self-tapping screws; usually the holes for them are provided in advance by the manufacturer.
4. The diameter of the bore hole is always greater than the diameter of the pipe. Rigid binding is unacceptable due to thermal deformations; a gap of at least 5 mm is required. Based on what material will be used as fire protection near the pipe, a decision is made on the advisability of insulating the gap. If necessary, the pipe at the junction is wrapped with asbestos cord.
5. From above, on the ceiling of the attic, additional thermal insulation is carried out. The box is filled with expanded clay or fire-resistant mineral wool.
6. IN attic the cutting unit is left without exterior finishing. If the upper floor is residential, the passage structure is decorated with a metal sheet.

Homemade pipe passage through the ceiling of a bathhouse - step-by-step instructions with photos

• tin for making cutting boxes;
• minerite;
• stainless steel sheet;
• sheet of gypsum board or basalt cardboard;
• The material for filling the box is expanded clay, but dry clay can also be used.

The pipe passage in this example is carried out at the stage before finishing ceiling. This is not important; the sequence of operations does not change.

Proper cutting of the chimney

The cut is an element of the chimney that is performed when the chimney passes through the ceiling or roof. Proper cutting is the key to long-term functioning of the chimney itself, as well as warmth and dryness inside the room. At the same time, even professionals can make mistakes when choosing and installing cutting. To control the services of a specialist or complete the design yourself, you need to understand some of the nuances.

Cutting functions

The main function of cutting is to pass the pipeline through the fence. By fencing we mean the ceiling or the roof itself. The passage must be sealed.

When cutting is done correctly, not a single drop of external precipitation gets into the room, not to mention the interior space of the room.

Fire safety is a special consideration. The point is that flue gases the pipe heats up to significant temperatures. Even after passing through all the heat exchangers, the exhaust gases have significant temperatures, which, if the pipe comes into contact with a flammable surface, can serve as a source of fire.

Therefore, the space between the cutting elements and the pipeline is filled with sealant. In most cases, this is basalt-based mineral wool. In addition, in internal elements cuttings include a metal apron that protects the surrounding surface from elevated temperatures.

When cutting is done correctly, not a single drop of precipitation gets into the room.

Basic rules and regulations

In fact, there are not so many standards in cutting. To be honest, only one thing is correct, everything else is purely recommendations obtained through long construction experience. The rule dictated by SNiP states: when making a chimney made of concrete or brick, as well as any other insulated materials, the distance to the rafter beam and any other flammable surface must be at least 13 cm. In any other case: at least 25 cm.

Experienced roofers advise when making a passage through the roof on inner surface For the roofing pie, make an apron of rectangular metal with indentations from the end of the passage hole of approximately 30 cm.

Types of ceiling penetrations

Pass-through units are divided by shape, depending on the insulation used, as well as the main structural material.

According to the main material there are:

• Steel components made of steel with a thickness of 0.5 mm. The most popular option, since metal components combine ease of installation, strength and resistance to mechanical damage.
• Asbestos. Asbestos is a cheap and reliable, but fragile material. Any mechanical damage can ruin your purchase.
• Minerite. New material on construction market. Very often, the manufacturer recommends this material for installing aprons and protective surfaces, but many buyers remain dissatisfied with the quality of the product. Therefore, it is better to be careful and purchase the usual steel assembly.

Ceiling passage for round pipe

Depending on the insulation, structures with materials are distinguished:

• Expanded clay
• Vermiculite
• Basalt mineral wool with foil. It is used more often than others, as it is easier to use and more suitable for self-installation and managed to establish itself in the building materials market.

Any node always has a rectangular base, but the shape of the passage itself varies, so there are two types of node according to the shape of the passage:

• With double cylinder
• With double rectangular box

The best choice would be a steel passage unit with insulation from mineral wool. The shape of the passage unit is selected based on the shape of the pipeline and the personal preferences of the owner.

Roofing cutting for round pipes

Factors influencing chimney cutting

The shape of the chimney cut is primarily influenced by the type of roof: flat or pitched. A flat roof does not accept the techniques inherent in a pitched roof. As a rule, cutting into flat roof are made of concrete, while materials for cutting pitched roof vary, but most often it is made of metal.

The shape of the chimney is of particular importance, since the shape of the passage opening depends on it. The round shape is better for the chimney itself, but if we talk about passage holes, then it is much easier to make a rectangular chimney. For a round cross-section you will have to make the correct cut in the roofing pie; for a rectangular chimney this is much easier to do.

The choice of installation technology is also influenced by the presence of cladding and the shape of the roofing. The lining makes cutting much more difficult. The fact is that the cladding can allow moisture to penetrate inside the roofing pie, which is unacceptable. Therefore, it would be logical to make the groove wider using cladding, but the groove itself also needs to be hidden somehow. Therefore, structures under cladding remain the domain of professionals. You need to have too many specific skills to do everything unnoticed and really beautiful.

If we talk about the type of coating, then it is better to use corrugated sheets for cutting. Other types are associated with certain difficulties. You have to calculate the coverage. Since the apron is supposed to be tucked under the element finishing coating roofs, and because of this, some types may stand on the roof at an angle or become bristling, which makes the coating leaky.

Installation technology and roof access

Installation technologies for cutting round and rectangular pipes are different. The fact is that the very shape of the passage unit is changing, which means the technology for performing the penetration is changing. The shape of the chimney is determined only by the desires of the owner. The fact is that soot will not accumulate on a round pipe. In addition, the outer part of such a chimney has a more streamlined shape, which improves the aerodynamic protection of the pipe. But a rectangular pipeline is easier to hide. It is more advantageous from an aesthetic point of view, so it is sometimes used.

Installation of a ceiling passage unit

Round pipes

For round pipes, it will not be possible to make the passage parts yourself, so you will have to use purchased elements. Aluminum-based flanges enjoy well-deserved popularity in the market. TO round base using rivets, a movable silicone or rubber corrugation is attached, which is pulled onto the pipe. With internal and outside the passage elements are connected to each other, resulting in a reliable and strong connection.

For cases where it is not possible to tighten the connection onto the pipe, there are split flanges, which, thanks to special technology can be wrapped around the pipe and pulled off minimum clearance between the groove and the pipe.

Rectangular pipes

Rectangular pipes are popular for various design projects. In addition, the main cutting parts can be made independently from sheet metal. This:

• Wall profile or internal apron
• Tie
• External apron

All these elements are corners with cuts at the bend. The upper part of the apron is bent inward, so from the corner a wall profile element is obtained that will overlap the adjacent element.

A tie is a triangular flat sheet of metal that protects part of the counter sheathing under the pipeline from soaking.

Scheme for cutting a rectangular pipe

Features of cutting brick pipes

There are only 2 features of brick pipes:

• The brick pipe rests on the foundation. This means that it is stable and does not require additional fastenings in the form of brackets. At the same time, making such fastenings with rigid tightening of the clamps can lead to deformation of the pipe or roof, which can lead to a fire or collapse of the building.
• Brick is a porous material, so it needs a little more protection from cutting. Therefore, wall profiles are mounted in a special groove, which is made in a brick pipe by grooved using a grinder.

Cutting brick chimney

The procedure for cutting a brick chimney is as follows:

1. The chimney is grooved after the counter-lattice. The goal of the groove is to create a groove for the bottom rail of the wall profile.
2. The lower wall profile is mounted. Fasten it with bolts to the counter-lattice. A tie is attached to the bottom rail. The tie is a sheet of metal in the shape of a triangle with the end slightly bent upward. The end of the sheet is bent to prevent water from penetrating into the attic.
3. The wall profile is coated with sealant.
4. Side and top strips are installed. After which the wall profile is covered with a coating, which is pressed against the aprons.
5. The top apron is removed under the decking sheet or under the ridge if the pipe is located next to the ridge.

Cutting the chimney is enough important process. Therefore, all fastenings must be made efficiently and reliably, otherwise the roof may leak in the chimney area. Compliance with instructions and standards will allow you to do everything correctly and lastingly. A properly installed chimney will last for decades.

Roof chimney trim – prerequisite his safe operation and a guarantee of warmth and dryness in the house.

Errors during output chimney through the roof usually lead to leaks, rot and destruction of wooden roof structures, and improper fastening of the pipe itself can cause a fire. By following the technology described in our article, you will be able to figure out this issue and, if necessary, install the chimney roof trim yourself.

The type of roof cutting directly depends on several factors: the material of the chimney, the type of roofing and the structure of the roof: its type, angle of inclination, location of the chimney relative to the ridge. The main quality of roof trim is the ability to protect the roof from leaks and overheating; this determines the choice of materials for roof trim.

Roof trim for metal pipes“sandwich” type is a metal cone rigidly fixed to a metal apron at a certain angle. For slate roofing the apron must be made of lead, which, due to its plasticity, easily takes the form of roofing sheets. The angle of the roof cutting is selected depending on the angle of inclination of the roof. The pipe is inserted into the cone and sealed using a sealing collar.

For round pipes and corrugated roofs metal coating Along with metal roof cutting, you can use penetrations from polymer materials on metal frame. They consist of a sheet of metal - steel or aluminum, with a hole larger than the diameter of the pipe and a silicone or rubber cap. You can cut a hole of the required diameter in the cap, and bend the base sheet to the shape of the roofing. After fastening to the roof, this cutting ensures the tightness of the passage through the roof.

Prefabricated ceramic sandwich chimneys or traditional brick chimneys, which have become popular in recent years, lead to the roof in a slightly different way. To seal them, metal aprons, junction strips and heat-insulating boxes are used. Sealing is achieved by gluing the elements with special films and using sealants, and it is important correct sequence work described in the following sections.

Roof cutting of round pipes

To seal sandwich-type pipes made of stainless steel or round ceramic pipes, roof penetrations with a metal or polymer cap are used. In addition, to protect wooden structures from overheating, it is necessary to install a thermal insulating box made of non-combustible material at the place where the pipe passes through the roof, and fill the space between the walls of the box and the pipe with a non-flammable heat insulator. Stone or basalt wool is used as a heat insulator; their melting point is significantly higher than that of the chimney in operating mode.

Exiting the pipe to the roof and installing the cutting

Purchase or make your own pipe from thin-walled metal. Its dimensions must provide a fire-prevention distance from the pipe to flammable structures - at least 25 cm in any direction. The pipe has the form of a box with a lid, with holes on both sides equal to the diameter of the pipe. The pipe must be finished with fireproof insulation - the figure shows finishing with basalt wool with a heat-reflecting layer. You can secure it using heat-resistant sealant and metallized tape.

Mark the place where the pipe passes through the ceilings and cut a hole in it to the size of the pipe using a jigsaw to cover the entire thickness of the heat-insulating “pie”. Install the pipe.

The chimney is removed from the sandwich type pipes through the hole in the pipe, the gaps are treated with heat-resistant sealant with operating temperature up to 1000 degrees. Insulation – basalt wool – is placed between the walls of the box and the pipe. The passage is closed from below and above with lids and secured with self-tapping screws.

Mark the place where the pipe passes through the roof and cut it out in the same way. In this case, the hole will not have a square, but a rectangular shape due to the slope of the roof. Install the lower cutting apron. It is chosen depending on the slope of the roof - the steeper the slope, the more elongated the hole will be.

Continue installing the pipe through the cut hole; the apron can be temporarily lowered down. The pipe must be tightened with clamps and secured to the roof structural elements with brackets.

Bring the pipe to the roof to the required height. In this case, it is important to follow the rule: the connection of the elements should not be located in the place of passage through the roof or ceiling; if the dimensions of the pipe do not allow this to be done, it is necessary to trim one or more elements. It is better to install clamps securing the pipe at the joints, and seal the joints - this ensures maximum stability of the pipe and fire safety.

After the pipe is installed and brought out, the lower apron is secured, and the roof groove of the selected type is put on the pipe. The figure shows a roof section with a metal apron laid on top of the roofing covering - corrugated sheeting. The upper edge of the apron is placed under the overlying sheet of corrugated board, and its side parts are cut so that they are at the top of the wave metal sheet. With such a design and a large slope of the roof, water will not flow under the apron.

For other types of roofing, roof sections of a different type can be used, for example, metal-polymer or with a lead apron.

Different types of roof grooves for round pipes

When using a flexible cutting made of silicone or rubber, a hole is cut in the cap 1/5 smaller than its diameter. The cap is pulled over the pipe and the flexible apron is given the shape of a sheet. They are secured with self-tapping screws, having previously been coated with sealant. For a more durable fastening, it is sometimes necessary to strengthen the roof sheathing - this is done at the stage of cutting out a hole in it.

A flexible lead apron can also be bent to the shape of a roofing sheet, but when purchasing it, you should take into account the angle of inclination of the slope. The upper edge of the apron must be placed under the overlying sheet of slate or metal.

Roof cutting of rectangular pipes

For roof cutting of pipes made of bricks or blocks, special elements are used - metal aprons, ties, wall profiles. Self-adhesive film and sealants are also used to seal joints.

A pipe made of bricks or blocks is usually placed on a foundation, so it is quite stable. Its additional fastening is possible with the help of special brackets, but they should not provide a rigid connection with the roof, otherwise if the roof is damaged, deformation and destruction of the pipe may occur, which can lead to a fire.

Technology of roof cutting of brick pipes

The cutting is carried out after installing the sheathing and waterproofing, on top of the counter-lattice made of planed boards. Connection strips are applied to the pipe walls and a contour is drawn along the upper protruding edge.

Marking the contour for the junction bar

A groove is cut along the resulting contour using a grinder and a diamond disk.

Sweep away the dust with a broom and wash it off with a stream of water, possibly from a plastic bottle.

Place the junction strip at the bottom edge of the pipe, mark its dimensions with a marker and, using metal scissors, cut out the vertical part of the junction strip on both sides. Apply the junction strip to the pipe and carefully hammer its edge into the groove in the brickwork.

The plank itself is attached to the sheathing with self-tapping screws using a screwdriver.

The side strips are marked in the same way and the protruding vertical part is cut off. Fasten both side strips with self-tapping screws so that they are on top of the bottom one. The upper junction bar is secured in the same way.

All joints between the planks and the pipe are sealed.

Install a tie and bend the gutter on it so that any moisture that accidentally gets on it drains from the roof without getting onto the sheathing.

The roof covering is laid using a special technology. The aprons are installed in the same sequence as the abutment strips: the lower apron, the side ones, and then the top apron - it is placed so that it is under the overlying sheet of roofing. If the pipe is close to the ridge, then the upper apron is placed under it.

Video - roof cutting of a brick chimney

Roof chimney trim – important stage construction, when performing it, it is important not to skimp on materials and follow the sequence of operations. Only in this case will you be guaranteed safety and comfort, without fires or leaking roofs.

When installing chimneys, the most sensitive point is the wiring through the roof, because in addition to complying with fire safety requirements, it is also necessary to ensure moisture resistance. This point is further complicated by the fact that even sandwich pipes still heat up (therefore roofing element must be heat-resistant) and second, that due to the slope of the roof, the hole for the pipe must be made not round, but elliptical. In such cases, roof cutting is used.

Currently, there are many different types of roof cuts depending on the method of execution, material and angle of inclination. We have standard roof trims made of stainless steel with an angle 40-50° .
Depending on the angle of inclination of the roof slope, it can be made to order with an angle of 60-70°, less than 40° cannot be made, then you can use roof penetration.

In places where they pass through ceilings, walls and other flammable materials, joining pipes is prohibited for the purpose of fire safety. In such places, pipes must pass without joints.

U ceramic tiles quite long service life. And the best confirmation of this is that old tiles are often used to restore buildings. In addition, archaeological finds also confirm the long service life of this roofing material. The age of some samples, for example, exceeds 5 thousand years.

It is better to solve this problem by replacing the slate sheet, but it is quite difficult to cope with this alone. The fastest and simple solution The slate will be laid on the damaged area or it will be sealed. If nail holes are visible on the slate, they can also be sealed; Alternatively, you can solder a piece of roofing felt using a torch.

The load on the roof can range from 70 kg to 200 kg per 1 m² of horizontal projection. What is typical is that the roof - regardless of exactly how much it weighs - must also withstand the so-called temporary loads, which include renovation work, layer of snow in winter time and its (snow) cleaning.

U soft roof There are some drawbacks, and significant ones at that. So, it is not always possible to completely seal vapor barrier layer, therefore, water vapor entering the layer of insulating material accumulates there (after all, due to the dense waterproofing carpet, moisture does not evaporate). Over time, the moisture accumulated in the insulation begins to flow down and wet spots appear on the ceiling. In addition, moisture sub-zero temperature freezes, its volume increases, and the waterproofing, as a result, comes off from the base. Even during operation, the waterproofing is subjected to mechanical/climatic influences, which is why cracks appear on it. Through these cracks, water enters the house, and it is sometimes quite difficult to detect and eliminate the cause of such leaks.

Hanging rafters are those that rest on only two external walls. This is a type of truss to which it is attached attic floor. If the span is in hanging rafters exceeds the mark of 6 meters, then a vertical hanging beam is additionally attached between the upper ends of the rafter legs. If the span varies from 6 to 12 meters, then the rafter structure is supplemented with struts, which reduces the length of the rafter legs.

To ensure long service life and optimal conditions When using metal tiles, you need to periodically inspect the roof. To keep the polymer coating clean, rainwater is often enough, but fallen leaves and other contaminants are not washed off in all cases. Therefore, the surface must be cleaned at least once a year. The same applies to drainage systems.

To remove dirt and darkening of the surface, use water and a soft brush. You can clean the roof with a jet of water (the pressure should not exceed 50 bar), and to remove stubborn dirt, use detergents intended for painted polymer coatings. Before starting work, be sure to read the instructions for the detergent to make sure that it is exactly suitable for the surface. If the stains are not removed, you can try to remove them with a piece of cloth moistened with alcohol. The roof must be washed, moving from top to bottom, so that the detergent is completely washed off. Then the surface and drainage systems are washed with water.

As for the snow, it is usually rolled off the roof, and what remains is fully consistent with the load-bearing capacity of the structure.

It is important that the material that will be used for roof insulation has good thermal insulation characteristics and was:

• safe(that is, it did not contain harmful substances);
• effective(the insulation material must meet all energy efficiency requirements);
• reliable(the original properties of the heat insulator should not be lost throughout the entire operational life of the structure).

The main function of a vapor barrier is to prevent the appearance of a “dew point” inside a building. For those who don’t know, “dew point” means the temperature at which the air humidity level is more than 100%, resulting in excess moisture turns into dew (condensation occurs) and freezes. Moreover, this causes the appearance of mold and mildew - both inside the roofing pie and in the building itself.

It is difficult to overestimate all the advantages of a thatched roof. It’s cool underneath in the summer and warm in the winter, the building itself “breathes” and generally lives quietly quiet life. Also, the sounds of rain in the presence of such a roof are “extinguished”; it is characterized by resistance to winds and other atmospheric influences. In addition to all this, a thatched roof allows you to significantly save money on the foundation and ceiling, since they will not need to be designed for heavy loads.

A thatched roof can be laid on a roof of absolutely any design; there are no restrictions in terms of shape in this case. Finally, the service life of such a roof reaches 50 years. There is no need to talk about the uniqueness of the design at all!

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.

Organizing the heating of cottages and private houses takes a considerable part of the construction time of the entire building. The construction of a chimney or installation of a pipe on the roof is the final stage of this type of work. The quality and reliability of the resulting home heating system largely depends on the quality of its implementation.

In this article we will talk about how to make a pipe on the roof and protect it from precipitation.

Pipe placement options

The most unfavorable place for a chimney to pass is at the junction of two slopes - the valley. It is almost impossible to achieve quality in such a place, while the water flow flowing from the roof slopes will create additional load on the chimney pipe. In addition, snow will accumulate here in winter. As a result, the roof may leak.

Just like in the case of passing through the ridge, this method requires the organization of a more complex rafter system in the valley areas.

Laying pipes on the roof

Organizing the correct connection of the chimney on the roof is sometimes quite difficult, since the roofing pie is continuous and it ultimately must remain continuous over the entire area (read: ""). SNiP requirements quite clearly describe the conditions for placing flammable materials around chimneys. And the material from which steam and waterproofing of modern roofs is made is precisely such materials. Therefore, depending on the type of chimney chosen, the insulation films must be located at least 13-25 cm from the pipe. A good option counts .

But how, in this case, is the pipe installed on the roof of the house? The optimal solution is the separation of part of the roofing pie from its main plane.

For this the following can be used:

• rafter legs on the sides of the pipe;
• cross beams installed at the top and bottom and having the thickness of the rafters.

That is, in a simple way - you need to create a kind of wooden box that reliably separates hot pipe from the roof pie. In this case, you should adhere to the requirements of SNiP, since wooden elements must also be placed at a certain distance from the chimney. The pipe box on the roof is filled from the inside thermal insulation material non-flammable type. Basalt wool can be used for this.

The connection of the hydro- and vapor barrier layer to the installed box is carried out using the standard method:

• the insulation sheets are cut into an “envelope”;
• the edges of the material are brought to the cross beams or rafters, where they are fixed with nails or staples;
• The waterproofing film is clamped with battens and counter-battens. The vapor barrier film is fixed with a base for installation finishing material attic;
• In order for the insulation to be reliably protected from moisture, in the places where the insulation film adjoins the walls of the box, it is necessary to arrange a hermetic seal from adhesive composition or special adhesive tape. Read also: "".

Brick pipe on the roof - sealing the joint

Depending on the cross-sectional shape of the chimney pipe and the type of roofing material, it is selected correct form passage unit, which can provide maximum security for this section of the roof (more details: ""). But, regardless of the choice, the principle of organizing this node remains unchanged.

One of the most important tasks when arranging a roof and the passage of a chimney through it is sealing the joints. Thanks to the correct implementation of this type of work, it is possible to ensure high-quality drainage of water from the chimney. In order to implement this requirement, use an apron for the pipe on the roof.

Let's look at how to properly seal a pipe on the roof:

The roof joint is made in the same way and flexible tiles. But in this case, instead of elastic adhesive tape, a valley carpet or tiles placed on the walls of the chimney are used. If the roof is made of metal tiles, then the apron for sealing is made of metal sheets that have the color of the roofing (read also: " ").

When organizing an apron, you must always remember that its upper part must be placed under roofing material. This is necessary so that the water flows first along the roof slope and then onto the apron. If you lay an apron without an overlap under the roof, then such a roof will soon leak.