What was used to decorate the numerous flower beds in Versailles in the 17th century? The question may cause confusion among many readers. Many will answer that flowers bloomed there. But in fact, tons of vegetables were grown in the country palace of the French court.
And the Sun King Louis XIV walked with his retinue between the beds where cabbage, carrots, potatoes and other crops grew.
Even then, park workers managed to combine planting of different species in one bed. For some period, the Chevalier de Beauche was responsible for the maintenance of the garden. He registered:
- successful and unsuccessful combinations of plants in the beds;
- controlled the supply of food to the royal table;
- kept records of the grown crops;
- planned where and what would be planted this year, as well as in the future.
Interesting records from those times have been preserved. De Bose found that certain combinations prevent the development of diseases. In certain combinations, plants begin to inhibit each other.
The researcher tried to systematize the combination of garden crops with each other. I even drew several diagrams of crop distribution. The records reveal conditions for mutual “attraction” between different cultures.
In a modern garden, planting different vegetables together will allow for optimal use of the space. Therefore, it makes sense to consider options for combining plantings.
Attention! More than three hundred years ago, the main conclusion was made: different plants can protect each other from pests.
Planning for future plantings begins from the moment of harvesting. Most often, the complete liberation of the territory is carried out in the fall. At the same time, the main winter crops of winter garlic, onions and a number of other crops with a long growing season are carried out.
They distribute the territory based on the needs of the family or business. Then they plan what will be planted and in what place. Not all gardeners use the compaction technique, although it makes it possible, without reducing the yield of the main plant, to obtain additional products from accompanying crops.
It turns out that such “sharing” provides certain advantages:
Crop rotation in the garden
Growing in one place, the bush takes food of a certain composition. The soil becomes depleted, making it impossible to obtain the previous year's harvest in the future.
Agronomy is a science that combines experimentation with statistical observations that can be carried out over decades. Data is accumulated and systematized. Only then are recommendations formed on what and how to do in order to grow agricultural plants with the greatest efficiency.
Agronomy textbooks suggest seven-, nine-, and five-field crop rotations. But they are mainly relevant for large agricultural production.
For summer cottages, it is enough to organize the movement of plantings so that they are repeated no more than once every three years. During this time, the microenvironment in each bed will be updated. It’s even better if the return occurs every four years.
By organizing movement in this way, you can constantly increase soil fertility and achieve high yields. The personal garden has important feature, which does not exist in an industrial field, is the gradual removal of food from the beds, and not a one-time mass harvest.
For example, cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers and a number of other crops ripen gradually. Spicy herbs are not pulled out by the roots, but carefully cut. Therefore, a conveyor belt is created for the supply of fresh vegetables to the consumer table.
In crop rotation, it is advisable to apply to some crops organic fertilizers While recharging the soil for several years ahead, there is no need to add organic matter to other plants.
Here mineral supplements will bring more benefits. There are also vegetables that do not need additional feeding; they sell the reserves that their predecessors manage to make.
When drawing up a crop rotation plan, you need to take into account optimal movements, then a stable harvest from your own garden beds will be ensured for many years.
Good neighborhood
A whole group of plants interacts well with others. As a result, the yield of both crops increases. They complement each other.
It has been noticed that basil planted near tomatoes improves their taste and promotes earlier fruiting. It seems that there is only a 5...7 day head start, but over the additional period the yield per bush increases by 15...20%.
If dill is grown in cabbage beds, the white cabbage will avoid laying its eggs on the heads of cabbage. As a result, the heads of cabbage will grow without being damaged by green caterpillars, which can completely destroy the harvest of cabbage and other cruciferous vegetables.
The symbiosis of onions grown for feathers or turnips with carrots is especially good. Both plants are damaged by flies. But there is something different for everyone:
- onion fly can ruin the feathers and turnips on the onion. However, she cannot stand the smell of carrot tops;
- The carrot fly settles on the root crop, gnaws holes in it and damages the tops. The presence of onions is terrible for this insect. She avoids the places where he is raised.
Attention! Onions and garlic go well with most vegetables.
As they grow, they release a powerful stream of phytoncides, which drives away pests that want to share the fruits of his labor with the gardener. Therefore, in spring and summer, when planting seedlings, you should make sure that there are bulbous crops nearby.
Legumes growing next to other plants feed their neighbors with nitrogen. Nodule bacteria on the roots of beans, peas or lupine produce digestible nitrogen, which promotes growth, but does not accumulate in the form of nitrate compounds. Once the legumes have grown, almost any plant can be planted.
Spinach is eaten abroad; in Russia it is less popular. The benefit is that it promotes moisture accumulation. Therefore, in a potato field, spinach and potatoes are neighbors that complement each other.
Schemes for placing neighbors when planting together in the garden
The video provides interesting information about the compatibility of plants in the garden:
When creating compositions from vegetables, you need to adhere to several rules:
- Plants should be placed so that tall ones are located to the north, and low ones should be placed on the south side.
- Along the way, it is necessary to take into account preferences for the amount of light; there are plants that need direct solar lighting doesn't do any good. Tomatoes, cucumbers, and eggplants prefer to be in the sun, and sweet peppers grow better in limited sunlight;
- plants of the same family inhibit each other, so you should combine different groups and families of vegetables, then a more interesting result will be obtained.
It is worth considering combination options:
Tomatoes and bush beans are an excellent symbiosis. They complement each other. Such groups can be placed in open ground, as well as in the greenhouse.
In a wide garden bed, parsley and strawberries will complement each other; the remaining plants will provide protection from pests and also improve nutrition in the root part.
Dill and cucumber are a good combination. Spider mite forgets about cucumbers. Aphids and scab also do not tolerate the proximity of spicy crops. You can complement the neighborhood with parsley. A good result is obtained if you first plant calendula.
The original combination came from France, where it is often used on flower beds. Vegetables are placed in flower beds even in cities and squares. City residents and visitors enjoy strolling past such beds.
Carrots, marjoram and sage - this combination also came from France. It turns out that such a neighborhood allows you to get a fairly decent harvest of each crop.
An unexpected combination came from Germany. Cabbage and beets are friends. Great addition dill and parsley can be used for them.
Also an interesting combination. This combination is recommended by residents of northern France and Belgium. Even on the islands of Great Britain they often use a similar grouping of plants in the garden.
Another combination, her homeland is Belgium. In the Netherlands, this combination is used when growing vegetables in greenhouses.
Another combination of vegetables from the French.
The radish leaves the garden bed first, but it protects the germination of other plants.
Eggplant.
Beans.
The most favorable relationship, which can be described as mutual assistance, exists between beans and cucumbers. Therefore, it is recommended to plant beans around the cucumber beds. They go well with sweet corn, potatoes, and radishes. radish, spinach, mustard. Interspersing beans into the planting of these crops improves their nitrogen supply. Fragrant basil, planted next to the beans, reduces damage to them by the bean weevil. Other useful herbs for beans: borage, lavender, oregano, rosemary, yarrow. It is not recommended to plant beans with onions, leeks, chives and garlic. The proximity of marigolds and wormwood has a bad effect on beans.
Grape.
In Moldova, as mentioned earlier, a large number of cultivated plants were studied for their compatibility with grapes. Corn, beans, rye, potatoes, radishes, and oilseed radishes had a stimulating effect on grape growth. Negative effects were noted during joint plantings with onions, barley, soybeans, and cabbage. The incompatibility of grapes and cabbage has been known for a long time. Already in ancient Greece They knew that cabbage is the enemy of the grapevine. This may seem surprising, because other plants of the cabbage family are not so hostile to grapes, but radishes and oilseed radishes, on the contrary, have a beneficial effect on them.
Peas.
Relationships of mutual assistance are noted in peas with carrots, turnips, and cucumbers. It grows well between the rows of these crops, helping them in turn by the fact that, like all legumes, it enriches the soil with nitrogen. Peas can be combined in the same bed with radishes, cabbage lettuce, kohlrabi, and parsley. Combinations of peas with onions, garlic, and tomatoes are unfavorable. Among the herbs, wormwood has a bad effect on peas. There are conflicting opinions about the relationship between peas, potatoes and cabbage: some authors consider these combinations to be quite possible, others have a negative attitude towards them.
Cabbage.
For various types cabbage is characterized by fairly similar preferences regarding accompanying plants. Relationships of mutual assistance are noted in cabbage with bush beans and celery. These species have a beneficial effect on each other, and celery, in addition, protects cabbage from flea beetles. Dill planted between rows of cabbage improves its taste and repels caterpillars and aphids. The proximity of borage is also beneficial for cabbage; it has a good effect on cabbage and, with its hard, hairy leaves, drives away snails. A very good accompanying crop for cabbage is all types of lettuce. They also protect it from the flea beetle. Cabbage also needs protection from a variety of cabbage butterflies that lay eggs on the leaves. This role can be performed by aromatic herbs, which mask the smell of cabbage with their strong smell. Therefore, it is recommended to plant thyme, sage, rosemary, mint, hyssop, medicinal wormwood, and chamomile around cabbage plantings. Leeks repel cutworm caterpillars. Cabbage can be combined in the same bed with cucumbers, tomatoes, spinach, beets, chard, potatoes, and chicory. There is no consensus on its compatibility with strawberries and onions. Of all types of cabbage, kohlrabi is the most suitable partner for beets and a bad neighbor for tomatoes. Cabbage does not go well with parsley and suffers greatly from nearby grapes. Tansy has a bad effect on kale.
Potato.
There are opposing opinions regarding the relationship between potatoes and tomatoes, beets and peas.
Growing potatoes in a mixed culture is beneficial. It gets sick less and can grow longer in one place without reducing the yield. The best partners for potatoes are spinach, bush beans and broad beans. Beans planted between rows enrich the soil with nitrogen and repel the Colorado potato beetle. Potatoes go well with cabbage, especially cauliflower and kohlrabi, types of lettuce, corn, and radishes. Many authors note that a small number of horseradish plants planted in the corners of a potato plot has a beneficial effect on potatoes. The Colorado potato beetle is repelled by catnip, coriander, nasturtium, tansy, and marigolds. It is not recommended to plant potatoes with celery; sunflower and quinoa have a depressing effect on potatoes.
Strawberry.
Bush beans, spinach, and parsley have a beneficial effect on strawberries. It is recommended to plant parsley between strawberry rows to repel slugs. Strawberries can be combined with garlic, cabbage, lettuce, onions, radishes, radishes, and beets. Among herbs, borage (borage) and sage work well on it. Mulching the soil with spruce and pine needles significantly improves the taste of strawberries.
Corn.
It is a plant that is very demanding in terms of nutrition, so it is recommended to alternate blocks of corn with blocks of bush beans; it benefits from the proximity of this legume, a soil improver. Corn is combined with cucumbers, tomatoes, lettuce, beans, and early potatoes. These crops stimulate its growth. Cucumbers are recommended to be planted around corn plots. From an allelopathy point of view, corn is a very friendly plant for many crops. It has a beneficial effect on sunflowers, potatoes, and grapes. Bad neighbors for her are celery and beets.
Onion.
The classic combination is onions and carrots. These two crops protect each other from pests: carrots repel onion flies, and onions repel carrot flies. Due to its compact shape, onions are used as an additional crop, which is placed between the rows of the main crop. It goes well with beets, lettuce, cucumbers, strawberries, spinach, radishes, and watercress. There is no consensus regarding the combination of onions and cabbage. Some authors believe that onions have a good effect on cabbage and drive away pests. The edging of savory is beneficial for the growth of onions; chamomile also works well on it, but in small quantities: approximately one plant per 1 linear meter. m beds. Onions do not combine with beans, peas, and beans. The proximity of sage is unfavorable for him.
Leeks.
Companion plants for leeks - celery, bush beans, head lettuce, carrots, beets. Leeks and celery have a mutually supportive relationship, so it is recommended to plant them in alternating rows.
Perennial onion (chives).
Goes well with tomatoes, celery, lettuce, cabbage, carrots, strawberries, endive; it is not recommended to plant next to peas, beans, and beets.
Carrot.
It tolerates the proximity of many crops, grows well next to onions and spinach, and also goes well with tomatoes, radishes, chard, chives, garlic, and lettuce. But the closest plant to carrots, with which it has a relationship of mutual assistance, is peas. It is recommended to surround carrots the following crops to repel carrot flies: rosemary, sage, tobacco, onion. Hostile herbs - dill, anise.
Cucumbers.
For cucumbers, companion plants are bush and climbing beans, celery, beets, lettuce, cabbage, garlic, onions, chives, radishes, spinach, fennel. Beans have the most beneficial effect on cucumbers, so it is recommended to plant beans around the cucumber plot. The cucumbers themselves are planted around corn, which greatly benefits from such proximity. Favorable herbs for cucumbers are chamomile, dill, borage. The question of the compatibility of cucumbers with tomatoes is not clear. Different authors express directly opposite opinions on this matter: some believe that this is a good combination, others that this is an absolutely impossible combination. So every gardener will have to find out this question himself through experience.
Parsley.
It is a companion plant for many crops: asparagus, roses, celery, leeks, peas, tomatoes, radishes, strawberries, lettuce. It is recommended to plant it along the edges of beds with tomatoes. Planted next to roses, it reduces the number of aphids on them; planted in strawberry rows - drives away slugs.
Pepper.
Companion plant - Basil, carrots, lovage, marjoram, oregano, onion, hostile plant - fennel.
Radish.
It tolerates mixed plantings with tomatoes, spinach, parsley, chard, onions, garlic, cabbage, strawberries, and peas. It is especially beneficial for radishes to be combined in a row with leaf and head lettuce, which protect it from flea beetles. Radishes planted between bush beans have a particularly delicate flavor and large root vegetables. Beans also protect radishes from pests. Since radish seeds germinate quickly, it is recommended to sow them along with slow-germinating crops (beets, spinach, carrots, parsnips) to mark the rows. Radishes do not like extreme heat, so they are often sown in alternating rows with chervil, which shades them a little and protects them from overheating. Nasturtium and watercress, bordering the radish beds, improve the taste of the radishes, giving them a sharpness, and under the influence of lettuce, they acquire a more delicate taste. The proximity of hyssop is unfavorable for radishes. Some gardeners believe that cucumbers are a bad neighbor for them.
Turnip.
Companion plant - peas. Gulyavnik, mustard and knotweed (knotweed) are unfavorable for turnips.
Salad.
Head and leaf lettuce (chives) go well with most garden crops. It is a good companion for tomatoes, cucumbers, climbing and bush beans, chives, spinach, strawberries, and peas. Its proximity is especially favorable for vegetables from the cruciferous family - all types of cabbage, radishes, radishes, as it repels the flea beetle. And for him, the proximity of onions, which repel aphids, is useful. Lettuce does not like overheating and needs partial shading, but only partial, so the close proximity of plants with dense foliage, such as carrots and beets, is unfavorable for lettuce. Lettuce bushes can be placed in different places garden, where it will grow under the cover of taller plants. The proximity of chrysanthemums is especially favorable for him.
Table beets.
Hubmann, who has tested the compatibility of beets with other vegetables for many years, claims that five types of vegetables - potatoes, tomatoes, bush beans, beets and spinach - stimulate each other. According to his observations, beets. also has a very good effect on cabbage of all types, lettuce, radishes and radishes; for beets, the proximity of onions, kohlrabi, spinach, lettuce is especially favorable, in addition, it tolerates joint planting with garlic, cucumbers, strawberries, and celery root. There is no consensus regarding the incompatibility of beets with other crops. Some gardeners claim that it does not grow well in the vicinity of chives, corn and potatoes. There is also controversy regarding chard, which belongs to the same botanical family as beets. One author claims that it has a beneficial effect on beets, another that vegetables of this family cannot tolerate each other’s root secretions and therefore cannot be planted next to each other. There are suggestions that beet root secretions have antibiotic properties and therefore adding it to some crops, in particular carrots, can have a healing effect on them. But at the same time, we should not forget about maintaining a sufficient distance between plants, since the powerful foliage of beets shades neighboring crops.
Celery.
In celery and white cabbage relationships of mutual assistance are noted: cabbage stimulates the growth of celery, and celery drives white butterflies away from cabbage. Celery goes well with tomatoes, spinach, cucumbers, lettuce, and beets. Chives and bush beans have a particularly beneficial effect on it; it is not recommended to plant celery next to corn, potatoes, parsley, and carrots.
Tomatoes.
Some consider tomatoes to be "selfish" plants that like to grow on their own, apart from other crops. But the experience of German and Swiss gardeners says that tomatoes tolerate the proximity of other vegetables well and are quite suitable for mixed plantings. They go well with celery, endive, radishes, radishes, corn, lettuce, cabbage, garlic, carrots, and beets. A mutually beneficial effect was noted with chives, spinach, bush beans, and parsley, which is often planted as a border to tomato beds. Tomatoes have a hostile relationship with kohlrabi, fennel and dill. As for the relationship between tomatoes and potatoes and cucumbers, opinions differ, perhaps it depends on the planting method. The proximity of the following herbs is beneficial for tomatoes, improving their taste and condition: basil, lemon balm, borage, chives, marigolds, mint, sage, savory. Stinging nettle growing next to tomatoes improves the quality of tomato juice and extends the shelf life of the fruit.
Pumpkin.
It is recommended to place pumpkin holes between corn plants. Corn shades the pumpkin in hot weather and saves it from overheating.
Beans.
Bush beans are the friendliest vegetable of the legume family. Relationships of mutual assistance and mutual stimulation were noted for beans and radishes, all types of cabbage, corn, celery, cucumbers, potatoes, tomatoes, beets, and spinach. With root secretions rich in nitrogen, beans help other types of vegetables growing next to them. In addition, it is compatible with chard, lettuce, strawberries, and leeks. Beans do not tolerate the proximity of onions, garlic, fennel, and peas. Among the herbs for beans, savory is recommended, which protects it from black aphids.
Garlic.
Apparently, in Western Europe it is not very popular, so it is rarely used in mixed plantings. It is known that garlic goes well with tomatoes, beets, carrots, cucumbers, strawberries and has a bad effect on beans, peas, and cabbage.
Spinach.
Spinach is a beloved member of the vegetable community in Germany and Switzerland. It is credited with many positive qualities, including cold resistance, short ripening period, and compact shape. All this makes it a very convenient crop for successive and combined plantings. In addition, spinach roots have a beneficial effect on the properties of the soil, and saponin, which is part of its root secretions, stimulates the absorption of nutrients by the roots of vegetables growing next to it. Relationships of mutual beneficial influence were noted for spinach and potatoes, tomatoes, beans, and beets. The most common combinations are spinach with kohlrabi, radishes, and lettuce. It also goes well with carrots, onions, parsley, watercress, celery, cabbage, and strawberries. Spinach does not have a hostile relationship with any plant species.
All of the advice given regarding planting vegetables together should be taken as recommendations, and not as absolutely firm rules. Each gardener should test them on his site with the varieties at his disposal in relation to local conditions.
The described methods of joint planting of vegetable crops provide for the effective use of the entire area of the garden throughout the whole summer season. With this growing method, a plot of 100 m2 can feed a family of four.
One more important piece of advice from experienced gardeners should be mentioned. This applies to drawing up an annual planting plan. It is needed in order, firstly, to observe the correct rotation of crops from year to year in accordance with the rotation rules described above, and secondly, to plan reseeding and replanting of some crops with others at the beginning of the year. All this is difficult to remember and keep in mind, especially with a wide variety of crops, so a garden plan is absolutely necessary.
When using the table, you should keep in mind that on this issue the opinions of different authors differ significantly. For example, German gardeners, with their characteristic scrupulousness and meticulousness, have been testing the compatibility of different vegetable crops, never came to a consensus on the compatibility of tomatoes and cucumbers, potatoes and peas, potatoes and cabbage. Some have come to the conclusion that these cultures have a beneficial effect on each other and that there are relationships of mutual assistance between them, others argue that these are completely impossible combinations. This discrepancy can be partly explained by differences in growing conditions and techniques. For example, it has been found that when grown in the same bed in adjacent rows, chives (chives) and bush beans, fennel and bush beans, onions and cabbage negatively affect each other. But if you grow these plants in nearby narrow beds, then these combinations give a positive result. Obviously, when sowing in rows, the negative effect of root exudates is felt, and when sowing in separate beds, the positive effect of volatile exudates from leaves predominates.
| Vegetables | They like to grow nearby | They don't like to grow nearby |
| Eggplant=Eggplant | Beans=Bean, capsicum=capsicum, potato=potato, spinach=spinach |
|
| Beans=Beans | Carrot=Carrot, cabbage=cabbage, cauliflower=cauliflower, cucumber=cucumber, marigold=marigold | Chives=Chives, leeks=leek, garlic=garlic |
| Broad Beans | Brassicas, carrots=carrot, celery=celery, grains=corn, lettuce=lettuce, potatoes=potato | Fennel (sweet dill)=Fenhel |
| Broccoli=Broccoli | Celery=Celery, chamomile=chamomile, dill=dill, rosemary=rosemary | Oregano (mint family)=Oregano, strawberry=strawberry |
| Peas=Pea | Beans=Beans, carrots=Carrot, grains=corn, cucumber=cucumber, radishes=radish | Onion=Onion family |
| Melon=Melon | Cereals=Corn, radish=radish | Potato=Potato |
| Cereal= Corn | Beans=Bean, cucumber=cucumber, melon=melon, peas=pea, pumpkin=pumpkin, potato=potato, radish=radish | Tomato=Tomato |
| Zucchini = Zucchini | Nasturtium=Nasturtium |
|
| Brussels sprouts = Brussel Sprouts | Potato=Potato, thyme, thyme-Thyme | Strawberry=Strawberry |
| Cabbage=Cabbage | Beetroot=Beetroot, potato=potato, oregano (mint family)=oregano, sage, wormwood=sage | Strawberry=Strawberry, tomato=tomato |
| Cauliflower=Cauliflower | Beans=Beans, celery=celery, oregano (mint family)=oregano | Nasturtium=Nasturtium, peas=peas, potatoes=potato, strawberries=strawberry, tomato=tomato |
| Potato=Potato | Beans=Bean, grains=corn, koch. cabbage=cabbage, peas=pea, eggplant=eggplant | Cucumber=Cucumber, pumpkin=pumpkin, zucchini=squash, sunflower=sunflower |
| Onion=Onion | Bean sprout, Broccoli=broccoli, koch. cabbage=cabbage, lettuce=lettuce, strawberry=strawberry, tomato=tomato | Beans=Bean, peas=pea |
| Leek=Leek | Carrot=Carrot, celery=celery, strawberry=strawberry |
|
| Carrot=Carrot | Bush beans = Bush beans, climbing beans = pole beans, lettuce = lettuce, onion = onion, peas = pea, radish = radish, tomato = tomato | Chives=Chives, dill, fennel=dill, parsnip=parsnip, radish=radish |
| Cucumber=Cucumber | Beans=Bean, celery=celery, lettuce=lettuce, peas=pea, radish=radish | Cauliflower=Cauliflower, peas=potato, basil=basil |
| Pepper | Basil | Fennel |
| Radish | Basil | Fennel |
| Turnip | Peas | Gulyavnik, mustard and knotweed (knotweed) |
| Lettuce=Lettuce | Carrots=Carrots, radishes=radishes, strawberries=strawberry | Beans=Beans, glassberry=beetroot, parsley=parsley |
| Beetroot=Beets | Brassicas, lettuce=lettuce, onion=onion, sage-wormwood=sage | Beans=Bean (field) |
| Celery=Celery | Head of cabbage. cabbage=Cabbage, leek=leek, onion=onion, spinach=spinach, tomato=tomato | Parsnip=Parsnip, potato=potato |
| Asparagus=Asparagus | Basil=Basil, Tomato=Tomato, Nasturtium=Nasturtium, Parsley=Parsley | Onion=Onion, garlic=garlic, potato=potato |
| Tomato=Tomato | Asparagus=Asparagus, celery=celery, carrots=carrot, parsley=parsley, marigolds=marigold | Cereals=Corn, fennel=fennel, potatoes=potato |
| Pumpkin=Pumpkin | Cereal=Corn | Potato=Potato |
| Spinach=Spinach | Celery=Celery, cauliflower=cauliflower, eggplant=eggplant |
|
| Eggplant | It is recommended to plant among bush beans that repel Colorado potato beetle. Thyme has a beneficial effect on eggplant |
| Beans | The most favorable relationship, which can be described as mutual assistance, exists between beans and cucumbers. Therefore, it is recommended to plant beans around the cucumber beds. They go well with sweet corn, potatoes, and radishes. radish, spinach, mustard. Interspersing beans into the planting of these crops improves their nitrogen supply. Fragrant basil, planted next to beans, reduces damage to them by bean weevil. Other useful herbs for beans: borage, lavender, oregano, rosemary, yarrow. It is not recommended to plant beans with onions, leeks, chives and garlic. The proximity of marigolds and wormwood has a bad effect on beans. |
| Grape | In Moldova, as mentioned earlier, a large number of cultivated plants were studied for their compatibility with grapes. Corn, beans, rye, potatoes, radishes, and oilseed radishes had a stimulating effect on grape growth. Negative effects were noted during joint plantings with onions, barley, soybeans, and cabbage. The incompatibility of grapes and cabbage has been known for a long time. Already in ancient Greece they knew that cabbage was the enemy of the grapevine. This may seem surprising, because other plants of the cabbage family are not so hostile to grapes, but radishes and oilseed radishes, on the contrary, have a beneficial effect on them. |
| Peas | Relationships of mutual assistance are noted in peas with carrots, turnips, and cucumbers. It grows well between the rows of these crops, helping them in turn by the fact that, like all legumes, it enriches the soil with nitrogen. Peas can be combined in the same bed with radishes, cabbage lettuce, kohlrabi, and parsley. Combinations of peas with onions, garlic, and tomatoes are unfavorable. Among herbs, wormwood has a bad effect on peas. There are conflicting opinions about the relationship between peas, potatoes and cabbage: some authors consider these combinations to be quite possible, others have a negative attitude towards them. |
| Cabbage | Different types of cabbage are characterized by fairly similar preferences regarding accompanying plants. Relationships of mutual assistance are noted in cabbage with bush beans and celery. These species have a beneficial effect on each other, and celery, in addition, protects cabbage from flea beetles. Dill planted between rows of cabbage improves its taste and repels caterpillars and aphids. The proximity of borage is also beneficial for cabbage; it has a good effect on cabbage and, with its hard, hairy leaves, drives away snails. A very good accompanying crop for cabbage is all types of lettuce. They also protect it from the flea beetle. Cabbage also needs protection from a variety of cabbage butterflies that lay eggs on the leaves. This role can be performed by aromatic herbs, which mask the smell of cabbage with their strong smell. Therefore, it is recommended to plant thyme, sage, rosemary, mint, hyssop, medicinal wormwood, and chamomile around cabbage plantings. Leeks repel cutworm caterpillars. Cabbage can be combined in the same bed with cucumbers, tomatoes, spinach, beets, chard, potatoes, and chicory. There is no consensus on its compatibility with strawberries and onions. Of all types of cabbage, kohlrabi is the most suitable partner for beets and a bad neighbor for tomatoes. Cabbage does not go well with parsley and suffers greatly from nearby grapes. Tansy has a bad effect on kale. |
| Potato | Growing potatoes in a mixed culture is beneficial. It gets sick less and can grow longer in one place without reducing the yield. The best partners for potatoes are spinach, bush beans and broad beans. Beans planted between rows enrich the soil with nitrogen and repel the Colorado potato beetle. Potatoes go well with cabbage, especially cauliflower and kohlrabi, types of lettuce, corn, and radishes. Many authors note that a small number of horseradish plants planted in the corners of a potato plot has a beneficial effect on potatoes. The Colorado potato beetle is repelled by catnip, coriander, nasturtium, tansy, and marigolds. It is not recommended to plant potatoes with celery; sunflower and quinoa have a depressing effect on potatoes. There are opposing opinions regarding the relationship between potatoes and tomatoes, beets and peas. |
| Strawberry | Bush beans, spinach, and parsley have a beneficial effect on strawberries. It is recommended to plant parsley between strawberry rows to repel slugs. Strawberries can be combined with garlic, cabbage, lettuce, onions, radishes, radishes, and beets. Among herbs, borage (borage) and sage work well on it. Mulching the soil with spruce and pine needles significantly improves the taste of strawberries. |
| Corn | It is a plant that is very demanding in terms of nutrition, so it is recommended to alternate blocks of corn with blocks of bush beans; it benefits from the proximity of this legume, a soil improver. Corn is combined with cucumbers, tomatoes, lettuce, beans, and early potatoes. These crops stimulate its growth. Cucumbers are recommended to be planted around corn plots. From an allelopathy point of view, corn is a very friendly plant for many crops. It has a beneficial effect on sunflowers, potatoes, and grapes. Bad neighbors for her are celery and beets. |
| Onion | The classic combination is onions and carrots. These two crops protect each other from pests: carrots repel onion flies, and onions repel carrot flies. Due to its compact shape, onions are used as an additional crop, which is placed between the rows of the main crop. It goes well with beets, lettuce, cucumbers, strawberries, spinach, radishes, and watercress. There is no consensus regarding the combination of onions and cabbage. Some authors believe that onions have a good effect on cabbage and drive away pests. The edging of savory is beneficial for the growth of onions; chamomile also works well on it, but in small quantities: approximately one plant per 1 linear meter. m beds. Onions do not combine with beans, peas, and beans. The proximity of sage is unfavorable for him. |
| Leek | Companion plants for leeks - celery, bush beans, head lettuce, carrots, beets. Leeks and celery have a mutually supportive relationship, so it is recommended to plant them in alternating rows. |
| Perennial onion (chives) | Goes well with tomatoes, celery, lettuce, cabbage, carrots, strawberries, endive; it is not recommended to plant next to peas, beans, and beets. |
| Carrot | It tolerates the proximity of many crops, grows well next to onions and spinach, and also goes well with tomatoes, radishes, chard, chives, garlic, and lettuce. But the closest plant to carrots, with which it has a relationship of mutual assistance, is peas. It is recommended to surround carrots with the following crops to repel carrot flies: rosemary, sage, tobacco, onions. Hostile herbs - dill, anise. |
| cucumbers | For cucumbers, companion plants are bush and climbing beans, celery, beets, lettuce, cabbage, garlic, onions, chives, radishes, spinach, fennel. Beans have the most beneficial effect on cucumbers, so it is recommended to plant beans around the cucumber plot. The cucumbers themselves are planted around corn, which greatly benefits from such proximity. Favorable herbs for cucumbers are chamomile, dill, borage. The question of the compatibility of cucumbers with tomatoes is not clear. Different authors express directly opposite opinions on this matter: some believe that this good combination, others - that this is an absolutely impossible combination. So every gardener will have to find out this question himself through experience. |
| Parsley | It is a companion plant for many crops: asparagus, roses, celery, leeks, peas, tomatoes, radishes, strawberries, lettuce. It is recommended to plant it along the edges of beds with tomatoes. Planted next to roses, it reduces the number of aphids on them; planted in strawberry rows - drives away slugs. |
| Radish | It tolerates mixed plantings with tomatoes, spinach, parsley, chard, onions, garlic, cabbage, strawberries, and peas. It is especially beneficial for radishes to be combined in a row with leaf and head lettuce, which protect it from flea beetles. Radishes planted between bush beans have a particularly delicate flavor and large root vegetables. Beans also protect radishes from pests. Since radish seeds germinate quickly, it is recommended to sow them along with slow-germinating crops (beets, spinach, carrots, parsnips) to mark the rows. Radishes do not like extreme heat, so they are often sown in alternating rows with chervil, which shades them a little and protects them from overheating. Nasturtium and watercress, bordering the radish beds, improve the taste of the radishes, giving them a sharpness, and under the influence of lettuce, they acquire a more delicate taste. The proximity of hyssop is unfavorable for radishes. Some gardeners believe that cucumbers are a bad neighbor for them. |
| Salad | Head and leaf lettuce (chives) go well with most garden crops. It is a good companion for tomatoes, cucumbers, climbing and bush beans, chives, spinach, strawberries, and peas. Its proximity is especially favorable for vegetables from the cruciferous family - all types of cabbage, radishes, radishes, as it repels the flea beetle. And for him, the proximity of onions, which repel aphids, is useful. Lettuce does not like overheating and needs partial shading, but only partial, so the close proximity of plants with dense foliage, such as carrots and beets, is unfavorable for lettuce. Lettuce bushes can be placed in different places in the garden, where it will grow under the cover of taller plants. The proximity of chrysanthemums is especially favorable for him. |
| Beetroot | Hubmann, who has tested the compatibility of beets with other vegetables for many years, claims that five types of vegetables - potatoes, tomatoes, bush beans, beets and spinach - stimulate each other. According to his observations, beets. also has a very good effect on cabbage of all types, lettuce, radishes and radishes; for beets, the proximity of onions, kohlrabi, spinach, lettuce is especially favorable, in addition, it tolerates joint planting with garlic, cucumbers, strawberries, and celery root. There is no consensus regarding the incompatibility of beets with other crops. Some gardeners claim that it does not grow well in the vicinity of chives, corn and potatoes. There is also controversy regarding chard, which belongs to the same botanical family as beets. One author claims that it has a beneficial effect on beets, another that vegetables of this family cannot tolerate each other’s root secretions and therefore cannot be planted next to each other. There are suggestions that beet root secretions have antibiotic properties and therefore adding it to some crops, in particular carrots, can have a healing effect on them. But at the same time, we should not forget about maintaining a sufficient distance between plants, since the powerful foliage of beets shades neighboring crops. |
| Celery | Celery and white cabbage have a mutually supportive relationship: cabbage stimulates the growth of celery, and celery drives white butterflies away from cabbage. Celery goes well with tomatoes, spinach, cucumbers, lettuce, and beets. Chives and bush beans have a particularly beneficial effect on it; it is not recommended to plant celery next to corn, potatoes, parsley, and carrots. |
| Tomatoes | Some consider tomatoes to be "selfish" plants that like to grow on their own, apart from other crops. But the experience of German and Swiss gardeners says that tomatoes tolerate the proximity of other vegetables well and are quite suitable for mixed plantings. They go well with celery, endive, radishes, radishes, corn, lettuce, cabbage, garlic, carrots, and beets. A mutually beneficial effect was noted with chives, spinach, bush beans, and parsley, which is often planted as a border to tomato beds. Tomatoes have a hostile relationship with kohlrabi, fennel and dill. As for the relationship between tomatoes and potatoes and cucumbers, opinions differ, perhaps it depends on the planting method. The proximity of the following herbs is beneficial for tomatoes, improving their taste and condition: basil, lemon balm, borage, chives, marigolds, mint, sage, savory. Stinging nettle growing next to tomatoes improves the quality of tomato juice and extends the shelf life of the fruit. |
| Pumpkin | It is recommended to place pumpkin holes between corn plants. Corn shades the pumpkin in hot weather and saves it from overheating. |
| Beans | Bush beans are the friendliest vegetable of the legume family. Relationships of mutual assistance and mutual stimulation were noted for beans and radishes, all types of cabbage, corn, celery, cucumbers, potatoes, tomatoes, beets, and spinach. With root secretions rich in nitrogen, beans help other types of vegetables growing next to them. In addition, it is compatible with chard, lettuce, strawberries, and leeks. Beans do not tolerate the proximity of onions, garlic, fennel, and peas. Among the herbs for beans, savory is recommended, which protects it from black aphids. |
| Garlic | It is not very popular in Western Europe, so it is rarely used in mixed plantings. It is known that garlic goes well with tomatoes, beets, carrots, cucumbers, strawberries and has a bad effect on beans, peas, and cabbage. |
| Spinach | Spinach is a beloved member of the vegetable community in Germany and Switzerland. It is credited with many positive qualities, including cold resistance, short ripening period, and compact shape. All this makes it a very convenient crop for successive and combined plantings. In addition, spinach roots have a beneficial effect on the properties of the soil, and saponin, which is part of its root secretions, stimulates the absorption of nutrients by the roots of vegetables growing next to it. Relationships of mutual beneficial influence were noted for spinach and potatoes, tomatoes, beans, and beets. The most common combinations are spinach with kohlrabi, radishes, and lettuce. It also goes well with carrots, onions, parsley, watercress, celery, cabbage, and strawberries. Spinach does not have a hostile relationship with any plant species. |
Favorable interaction between herbs and horticultural crops
The table provides information about herbs that have a beneficial effect on vegetable crops. It is unusual for us that in the “herbs” column there are onions, garlic and parsley, but in this case we follow the classification adopted in foreign literature, based on the ideas of ancient authors
| Herbs | Cultures |
| Basil | Peppers, tomatoes |
| Marigold | Potatoes, roses, tomatoes |
| Borage | Beans, strawberries, tomatoes, cucumbers, cabbage |
| Mustard | Beans, grapes, fruit trees |
| Oregano | Beans |
| Hyssop | Cabbage, grapes |
| Chervil | Radish |
| Nettle | Tomatoes, mint |
| Lavender | Beans |
| Onion | Beetroot, cabbage, lettuce, strawberry |
| Mint | Cabbage, tomatoes |
| Nasturtium | Radish |
| Dandelion | Fruit trees |
| Parsley | Peas, tomatoes, leeks, roses, strawberries |
| Rosemary | Beans |
| Chamomile | Cucumbers, onions, most herbs |
| Yarrow | Beans, most aromatic herbs |
| Dill | Cabbage, onions, lettuce, cucumbers |
| Horseradish | Potato |
| Savory | Eggplants, potatoes, tomatoes, bush beans |
| Garlic | Roses, tomatoes, cucumbers, strawberries, beets, carrots |
| Sage | Cabbage, carrots, strawberries, tomatoes |
| Chives | Carrots, grapes, tomatoes, roses |
| Tarragon | Most vegetables |
Joint plantingsvegetable, berry, green and ornamental crops at the dachas there is a garden bed x is not know-how, not innovation, but technology used over many centuries of traditional cultivation of vegetable crops. Examples of joint planting of vegetables in bedswere known to both the American Indians and the ancient Slavs. Modern agricultural technicians study the interaction different cultures within a particular industry -plant allelopathy. We are talking about the beneficial or depressing mutual influence of various plants planted in the neighborhood. For small country farms themeco-cultivationof various vegetables and herbs is especially relevant, since the use of this planting method will allow using the available space more economically in terms of quantity and more efficiently in terms of quality.
Why is it important to properly combine vegetables in garden beds?
To get the maximum yield on a minimum area using the technology of combined beds, you need to understand the basics of crop rotation, since even incorrect rotation of crops planted on the same piece of land in different years can either improve the result or negate all efforts gardener Since the gardener is primarily interested in the yield and health of the plantings, the right choice neighbour and in the garden bed allows you to solve both problems.
Understanding the secrets of combined cultivation vegetable x, green and decorative crops You can achieve not only a rich, healthy harvest, but also combine the useful with the beautiful: a garden bed can become a decoration for your garden, turning into a flower bed. When choosing neighboring crops, the following factors must be taken into account: Plants with similar maintenance conditions and care requirements are planted in one bed: lighting, humidity, acidity and soil structure, regime and composition of fertilizing. If most cultural parameters coincide, then the nuances can be taken into account by correctly drawing up a diagramjoint landing: Plant a more moisture-loving plant in the center of the bed, where the soil moisture level is higher than at the edge. The same applies to sizes: the tallest specimens from a set of crops require planting in the center, the shortest ones - in the border, then everyone will have enough sunlight.
Compliance with crop rotation is an indispensable condition. Related crops belonging to the same family should not follow Friend after each other from season to season, since they draw from the soil the nutrients necessary for these particular plants (which means that the next season the “relative” will already be deprived of soil fertility) and pathogenic microorganisms accumulate over the season, causing harm to this particular family (and therefore , a “relative” is initially susceptible to a “family” disease). Plants with a powerful deep root system and short surface roots should be planted side by side in one bed so that these crops are adjacent and alternate: deep-shallow-deep. With such a planting, the roots of neighbors will not compete for underground space, each developing in its own direction.
Joint landingcultivation of different crops is possible not only within a spatial framework, when plants are simultaneously planted and ripen at the same time.
Joint planting within temporary boundaries allows you to harvest some vegetables, freeing up space for later neighbors to emerge and begin to develop.
Good example such a conveyor principlecombined planting in the garden bed, the width of which is 1 m, and the row spacing is 10 cm: Planting: lettuce (leaf) and radishes in one row - alternating every 10 cm; next row: watercress, kohlrabi cabbage alternates in a row with a head of lettuce, spinach is planted in three rows in a row, early variety potatoes, a couple more rows of spinach. Total 9 k ultur. Harvesting: spinach and watercress are harvested first (cut off the leaves and leave the roots); As they ripen, the radishes are pulled out and the lettuce leaves are removed after one; later, after harvesting the head lettuce, kohlrabi and potatoes remain until fully ripened.
Example of vertical combining compatible plants in one bed: The bed is located in an east-west direction. Along the northern border along the entire length there is a trellis support for tying up a climbing crop - beans. Rows: beans, after 0.2 m - low-growing tomatoes, after 0.2 m - carrots, after 0.2 m - onions, along the edge - a fragrant spice (for example, basil) or marigolds to protect against insects. Carrots, onions and beans are planted first, and a little later, when the beans catch on the trellis, the tomato seedlings are planted. Harvesting in this combination is almost simultaneous for all vegetable neighbors.
Advantages of mixed plantings
The advantages of planting vegetables, herbs and ornamental crops in common beds, taking into account their compatibility, include not only saving space, although it is this reason that often pushes gardeners to mixed cultivation.
By wisely using the characteristics of certain plants, you can protect your plantings from attacks by insect pests: marigolds, oregano, mint, and herbs drive away insects, protecting their neighbors in the garden. Onions and garlic can also become a reliable barrier. If you plant nasturtium next to vegetables, then the aphids will prefer the decorative crop without getting to the vegetables. The smell of rosemary will repel bean lovers, and thyme will help the cabbage resist insect attacks. As a result, the summer resident will have a harvest of vegetables and aromatic additives for tea in the fall. Many cultures are not just friendship t, and show a beneficial effect on each other’s development: tall sun-loving sunflowers and corn They are excellent neighbors, since their roots develop at different depths, and create the necessary shade for short plants that prefer light shading: chard, spinach.
Early spinach greens will provide soil moisture and keep weeds at bay while beets and beans, potatoes or tomatoes emerge in the same area. And when the time comes to cut the spinach leaves, roots that are beneficial to the soil will remain in the ground, helping neighbors get food from the soil. These and others examples of joint planting of vegetables in the gardendemonstrate the benefits of growing different crops in a common area, if you know that what and why is it friendly, what can be planted side by side in one common bed . It is equally important to consider which plants do not tolerate each other.
What are they compatible with?
Cabbage
Cabbage crops usually suffer from pests, so onions and garlic are planted to protect against voracious caterpillars, and the aroma of mint, sage, rosemary and Bogorodskaya grass will help against butterflies. Snails do not like borage, and flea beetles avoid planting celery.
In addition to the defenders, cabbage there are simply friendly neighboring vegetables: potatoes, salads, cucumbers, beets.
Neighbors do not recommend carrots to go with cabbage (although with broccoli perhaps), beans, grapes, strawberries, and tomatoes are planted away from cabbage.
Tomatoes
It has been noticed that basil is not just best neighbor for tomatoes , it makes vegetables taste richer. Combines harmoniously with garlic, which protects against pests, leafy greens, radishes and radishes, beans, carrots, onions and beets. They are developing well tomatoes next to peppers , even in closed ground conditions - in a greenhouse or greenhouse. Dill and it is better to plant potatoes further away, but nettle - a malicious weed - is very useful for improving the taste of tomatoes.
cucumbers
There is experience when cucumbers are planted with corn, which helps cope with ants, becomes an additional support for tenacious cucumbers, corn leaves cover the neighbor from the hot sun.
Radishes and radishes repel bugs and improve the flavor of the fruit. Can plant next to onions with garlic. Compatibility of related plants - cucumbers and zucchini - not bad example of joint cultivation in one bed. Spinach, beans and beans, dill, celery and even beets - good neighbors in cucumber beds. Compatibility vegetable crops and weedsplants in the gardenmanifests itself in a combination of cucumbers and tansy, agaric, and quinoa. These weeds help the crop resist pests.
Cucumbers and tomatoes do not grow side by side, especially in greenhouses and hotbeds - their conditions are too different. Potatoes and spices are also planted further away from each other.
Pumpkin
Some gardeners believe that a pumpkin cannot find a favorable neighborhood. They definitely don’t plant pumpkins next to zucchini - this is fraught with cross-pollination, with potatoes, peppers and eggplants and legumes. Possible joint plantings with radishes and nasturtium - these crops perform a protective function.
Carrot
The best neighbor for carrots - onions, but perennial onions. The fact is that onions and carrots have a fundamental difference in watering needs: either the onions will rot or the carrots will not grow. Garlic, spinach, radishes, lettuce - the most popularexamples of beds with joint plantings carrots.
Dill with carrot beds they tear them out mercilessly: these plants, competitors for moisture and nutrition, have the same diseases. Carrots and parsley , not the best neighbor and celery.
Potato
When planting potatoes, many experienced gardeners throw a bean into the hole - the best partner of the crop, helping to get a more abundant harvest. Potatoes have many useful garden companions: beans, coriander, marigolds with nasturtium or tansy protect against the main pest - the Colorado potato beetle. Garlic planted between rows helps cope with late blight.
Potatoes' friends include radishes, salads, cabbage, eggplants, horseradish (if its distribution is controlled), calendula, and corn.
But quinoa inhibits the growth of potatoes; for the same reason, beets are not planted next to them. Raspberries and tomatoes can cause late blight. Zucchini, cucumbers, sorrel - examples of crop incompatibility
Beet
Having identified as neighbors to beets mint or catnip, the gardener saves himself from fighting aphids and fleas, the main pests of the vegetable. Proven neighbors for root vegetables are cabbage (white cabbage), carrots, onions, celery, carrots, strawberries are also suitable. But for a mutually beneficial neighborhood, all plants need to be provided with a place - the plantings should not be thickened.
Beet antagonists are potatoes, beans. Not recommended nearby plant mustard.
bell pepper
Basil is not just a neighbor. This is an active assistant for Bulgarian peppers , it contributes better growth and plant development. Onions are good for peppers, and beets are just a good neighbor. Not grown next to the peppers are carrots, peas, beans.
Onion
Perennial onions and carrots are an almost perfect examplecompatibility of plants in the garden. And onions grown for the sake of the bulb are incompatible with carrots, since moisture-loving carrots will ruin the neighbor or the onion harvest will leave the gardener without carrots, because they have different requirements for substrate moisture.
Onions are comfortable in the same bed with tomatoes, green crops, beets, and strawberries. But not with sage, radishes, beans, legumes, grapes, gladioli.
Garlic
Garlic is valued by gardeners for its beneficial nutritional qualities and for the vegetable’s contribution to pest control: it protects plantings from insects, caterpillars, slugs and even moles if a large area is planted with garlic. Garlic is friendly with radishes, salads, celery, strawberries, carrots. It protects potato plantings from late blight, and decorative plants - gladioli and roses - from aphids.
Among the enemies of garlic, we note leguminous plants.
Eggplant
Eggplant with beans - an ideal combination in the fight against the Colorado potato beetle. Creeping thyme protects eggplants from flea beetles. Included in one diagram planting with eggplants, onions, peppers, herbs. Incompatible with cucumbers and cabbage.
Other vegetables
Radish It is good to grow next to carrots, cabbage, turnips, beans, salads, tomatoes, and beans. But onions, cucumbers, and beets are not suitable for general landing with radish.
Turnip can grow with peas, but does not develop surrounded by asparagus, next to mustard.
Salads are used in various combined beds. And spinach is recommended for mandatory planting: agricultural technicians note it compatible with any plants in the gardenand benefit in enriching the dacha land.
Unfavorable neighborhood
The list of plants that do not get along in the close company of other crops is small. The leader of this list is fennel, which requires individual planting.
More often, incompatibility is explained by related ties between crops (dill, coriander, parsley, the Apiaceae family, they compete and suffer from the same diseases).
When planning a general planting scheme, take into account the size of an adult plant, the characteristics of the root system, and the need for free space on a plot of land. If we neglect these factors, then even a neighborhood that is favorable in theory will only bring problems in practice.
By studying the influence of plants on each other, a gardener increases the efficiency of his work. The summer resident transforms the appearance of the plot every year, because knowledge of the basics of garden allelopathy and garden crops allows you to create unique flower beds that produce a rich harvest and give beauty and joy.
In the garden, different types of vegetables grow in close proximity, as well as flowers and even various weeds. How do they get along in such company?
Of course, there is no place for weeds in the beds. But is it necessary to fight them on boundaries, along roads, in secluded corners of the garden, between outbuildings and in other inaccessible places?
About 30 years ago this question was answered unequivocally: down with it! But over time it turned out that not everything is so simple. The destruction of flora, which has no obvious economic benefit, has led to a reduction in the number of pollinating insects, as well as natural enemies of garden pests. The strategy of destroying everything useless is replaced by a strategy of maintaining balance.
Bad relatives
Problems are mostly caused by perennial weeds belonging to the same families as cultivated plants. The fact is that it is representatives of the same family that are more often susceptible to attack by the same insects and microbes.
Classic example: wintering wild cabbages– rapeseed, zherushnik, wild radish. They retain the clubroot pathogen on their roots, and overwintered plants feed on their leaves and reproduce on them, which then attack the seedlings in whole hordes cabbage.
Friendly vegetables
How well do the vegetables themselves coexist with each other? Since ancient times they have been planted nearby in gardens onions and carrots. It turns out that not only, whose larvae can render sweet root vegetables unusable, does not like the smell of onions, but also onion fly I don't like the carrot smell. Onions for greens can be placed between the rows of carrots: their green “feathers” grow quickly. This crop is harvested before the slow-growing carrots need space.
For compacted crops, plant species are selected so that the early-ripening vegetable is ready before it begins to interfere with the late-ripening vegetable, which is slowly gaining weight. This allows you to effectively use a small garden area. The most favorite “compactor” among gardeners is. It is sown not only in greenhouses around the edges cucumber and tomato hail, but also in open ground as a “beacon”. Just mix a little into the slowly germinating seeds of the main crop - parsley, dill or carrots. Radish shoots will appear within a few days and will mark the rows, making it easier to care for the main crops. While the stayers are barely throwing out the first small leaves, the sprinter is already at the finish line and ready to eat.
When placing sets or sampling onions for greens together with other crops planting material must be carefully checked, especially if it is intended for greenhouses. It can hide behind the scales of the bulbs, which will spoil all the greenhouse plants, and the smallest worms - nematodes - are often preserved in the bottom. WITH cucumber and onion enough difficult relationships: on the one hand, the pungent odor repels some pests, and on the other, the root secretions of the onion inhibit the roots of the cucumber. You can add an onion to a cucumber greenhouse only if it does not contain any unpleasant surprises. It should not be planted directly on the garden bed, but in a box with pound or sawdust, since it will feel good anyway.
Flower and vegetable mix
A separate topic: vegetables plus flowers and decorative vegetables.
Before we go far from greenhouses, I’ll say that decorating a “vegetable house” by planting nearby, and especially at the entrance and windows, roses- bad idea. Beautiful flowers are loved, alas, not only by us. Almost all pests that are found in a protected pound (mites, thrips, miner, etc.) tend to them. Once your attention is relaxed, the bush begins to accumulate them both on the leaves and among the petals: as a result, you will have to constantly be on guard.
But grass lawn– what you need: a minimum of common misfortunes and, moreover, an accumulation of beneficial insects.
Among the most desirable flowers surrounded by vegetable plants are and. They are not only decorative and have healing properties, they also protect their neighbors in the garden or flower bed. The pungent smell repels aphids and whiteflies, and root secretions are not liked by... Marigold They are especially good because they bloom until autumn, and from numerous varieties you can choose what you like based on color and size. Plants can be molded: they can be pinched to limit growth, and if necessary, allowed to grow and take up the free space.
What the malicious wireworm categorically does not like is dahlias, both annual (cheerful guys) and tuberous. The latter are more suitable as predecessors, and not as joint plantings with vegetables - they are too large.
And then there are plants that both flower and vegetable growers consider their objects. For example, miniature perennial chives. In early spring it will give greenery that is pleasant in appearance and taste, and in early summer purple flowers will please the eye and attract bumblebees and bees. Curly parsley has firmly taken its place in borders and flower beds, and the delicate leaves nasturtiums– an interesting salad component. Lettuce lettuce It is also very decorative and is increasingly found in flower beds. And all thanks to the fact that it ripens early and makes room for growing flowering summer trees. Beans multi-flowered with long inflorescences of fiery red or white moth flowers, most of us perceive exclusively as a flower, and yet it is vegetable plant. Both young fruits and seeds are edible. The bean is suitable for neighbors that can support its long thin stem: a tree, a tall bush, vigorous corn or a sunflower. However, a fence, rope or net will also suit her. Even more interesting is the “wigwam” made of stakes tied at the top, braided with flowering beans. Like most legumes, it is easy-living and also stores nitrogen from the air in the soil. And it is dangerous only because it can block the light of smaller plants with its powerful foliage.
