Astilbu - perennial decorative flower- gardeners love it and actively use it in landscaping their plots. A practical plant, no need for annual sowing of seeds or growing seedlings.

It is enough just to provide proper care, which significantly saves time and effort. However, while initially pleasing with its decorativeness and good growth, over time astilbe blooms less and requires periodic rejuvenation. In addition, it can invade neighboring areas. How is astilbe transplanted in the fall and what care measures does it need after that?

Reasons for transplantation

Unpretentious astilbe can grow in one place for up to 10 years. But in order for the flowers to be beautiful, healthy and lush, it is recommended to replant astilbe every 3-4 years. The reason for transplanting to another place may be depleted soil; over time, its fertility decreases and the content of useful microelements decreases. But the main reason lies in the peculiarities of the astilbe root system.

In an adult plant, the roots grow so much in 3-4 years that they break out to the surface of the soil along with the buds. In 1 year it grows 4 cm. Exposure of the root system can cause the buds to suffer in the summer heat or winter frosts. At best, this will weaken flowering, at worst, the plant may die. Don't delay the transfer. Roots that are too old are then poorly separated, and the plant takes root much worse in a new place.

Timing for transplanting astilbe

Astilbe is one of those plants that are replanted throughout the season. Even when buds appear, you can carefully transplant it to a new place. This is necessary if the flower grows rapidly and clogs its neighbors. It is important not to separate the earthen lump from the root system. After completing the procedure, you need to water the bush abundantly. But still, replanting astilbe in the fall will be the most effective. This is done in the first ten days of September, immediately after flowering has completed. In the northern regions of Russia, Siberia and the Urals (where cold weather sets in earlier), it is better to start replanting from the end of August. In the southern regions, the procedure can be carried out in October.

If the deadlines are met, the plant will have enough time to adapt to the upcoming cold weather, and in the next season it will not lose its decorative value.

A lot depends on the variety. If the perennial blooms in the second half of summer, then you can replant it in the spring, until the beginning of May. It is better not to touch astilbe, which blooms from the first days of June, until autumn.

Features of transplantation

In order for the transplanted bush to take root well and grow quickly, it needs to choose right place. Despite the fact that astilbe is a heat-loving plant, sun-drenched open areas should be avoided. A place with sparse shade is more suitable for her; in such conditions there will be abundant and long-lasting flowering. The exception is astilbe of light varieties - white, pink (“Berg Crystal”, “Gloria”, “Weiss Pearl”), it will feel comfortable in sunny areas. Flowering will be slightly shorter in duration, but very intense. But plants with bright colors, such as burgundy astilbe of the “burgundy red” variety, are not suitable for sunny areas; their inflorescences will fade and turn pale.

Astilbe is not very demanding on soil, but does not tolerate long-term droughts. In order for the replanting result to be positive, it is worth giving preference to areas where groundwater comes close to the surface.

Loamy soil with an acidity of 5.5 to 6.5 pH is suitable for replanting the plant. It is recommended to add potassium and phosphorus fertilizers to the top layer.

Methods for transplanting astilbe

The main method for replanting astilbe is transshipment. It is carried out while preserving the earthen coma, in contrast to ordinary transplant, at which it occurs complete replacement soil. The main advantage is that the procedure can be carried out without harm to the plant at any time - be it active growing season, flowering or dormancy. The root system is not injured, and astilbe will immediately begin to receive nutrients from fresh soil. She will not have to expend energy to recover after the transplant.

The transshipment method allows you to replant a flowering astilbe bush without the risk of dropping the buds. Sometimes it is necessary not only to replant the entire astilbe in the fall to another place, but to divide it into several parts and plant them separately. In this case, the root system is divided into required quantity parts. Each of them must have at least three basal buds. To improve survival rate, divided astilbe bushes are first placed in a container with water and then transplanted into the ground.

Preparing for transplant

You should start by preparing the planting hole where the plant will be transferred. Its depth should be individual depending on the size of the rhizome of the transplanted bush. All root system with a lump of earth should fit freely in the planting hole. At the same time, it is important to prevent the growing point from becoming too deep and covered with soil. It is recommended to add hydrogel to the bottom of the planting hole; it helps maintain soil moisture.

As fertilizers, you can use a universal mineral complex (25-30 g per hole), wood ash and bone meal (no more matchbox for 1 pit). Immediately after transplanting and watering, mulch the surface of the earth around the bush with straw, pieces of bark, sawdust or peat chips. If you need to divide the bush, you need to take care of a sharp knife, because the roots of astilbe are very dense.

Transplantation process

The immediate transplantation process is not difficult:

1. The prepared planting hole, where fertilizers have already been added, must be filled with water.
2. The astilbe bush is dug up in such a way as to preserve all the roots along with the earthen lump.
3. Immediately transfer it to the prepared hole, place it in the center and fill it with fresh soil. The planting depth should be such that there is a 3 cm layer of soil above the restoration buds.
4. Water the transplanted plant abundantly.
5. Mulch the surface of the earth around the bush with a layer of 2 cm to reduce overheating and maintain looseness and moisture in the soil. In addition, the procedure will help avoid the appearance of weeds in the neighborhood and create a favorable conditions for wintering.
6. When replanting several bushes at once, it is necessary to maintain a distance of at least 40 cm between them. Then the flowering will be lush and the foliage will grow well.
7. Partial replanting of astilbe is also allowed when the plant is not completely dug up. The required piece is separated from the bush, the pruning site is covered with wood ash, and fresh soil is added to the resulting hole. The division is transplanted to another place. Already on next year both parts of astilbe will delight you with their flowering.

Caring for astilbe after transplantation

Caring for the transplanted plant consists, first of all, in abundant watering, since astilbe loves moisture very much. Even short-term drought affects appearance– the leaves turn yellow, the inflorescences become smaller. So you need to constantly monitor soil moisture and water the plant regularly.

1. After the first autumn frosts, all stems and flower stalks must be cut off.
2. Despite its resistance to cold, the transplanted plant must be covered in winter. To do this, hill up and mulch with peat or rotted manure.
3. After transplantation, the bush is fed annually with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

If everything is done correctly in the fall, then next summer astilbe will decorate again garden area bright flowers.

Most flower beds located in the shade will definitely contain astilbe. The perennial has long gained popularity as unpretentious plant. Today we will cover the topic of planting astilbe and caring for it in open ground, since beginners and experienced gardeners I am interested in the basics of agricultural technology and the peculiarities of growing flowers.

An unpretentious crop for a shady flower garden loves a cool climate

Plant characteristics

Consumer qualities

Summer residents probably wouldn’t pay attention to the panicles of wild astilbe. Tiny buds, inconspicuous colors, resemble weeds, which are in abundance around. However, breeders managed to accomplish the incredible - to develop such bright varieties of astilbe that simply cannot go unnoticed.

Required cultural qualities:

• decorative openwork leaves;
• catchy strong inflorescences;
• abundant and long flowering;
• winter hardiness;
• shade and moisture-loving.

This flower is grown everywhere in middle lane Russia. Moreover, in the south, astilbe often burns and dries, and tamed to the specific climate of Western and Eastern Siberia, is successfully cultivated in the territories of the Altai Territory, the Urals, as well as in Far East(in Primorsky, Khabarovsk Territories).

Conclusion: astilbe is not a crop for hot regions.

Flower garden companions

Gardeners plant astilbe together with coniferous and decorative deciduous shrubs, create original sites around the perimeter of reservoirs, combining varieties of adjacent color and height.

Low-growing perennials successfully prove themselves as a potted crop, and dwarf astilbes take root well in rocky areas of rockeries or rock gardens.

Astilbe is comfortable in the circle of the following, tolerant of lack sunlight, plants:

• hydrangeas;
• hosts;
• Siberian iris;
• fern;
• bergenia.

It is noteworthy that even the absence of astilbe flowers will not make such a flower bed boring. The leaves of the “neighbors” are unique decorative form and different colors. At the same time, for all plants to live, it is enough to see the sun only at sunrise or closer to sunset. Moisture, diffused shade and minimal care are all you need for healthy growth and prosperity of astilbe.

Basics of propagation and agricultural technology

Growing crops from seeds at home

Astilbe is propagated vegetatively and by seeds. Beginner flower growers prefer the first method. The second often raises a number of intractable questions such as: “how to collect and germinate tiny seeds”, “when to sow seedlings”, etc.

Many experimenters are stopped by the low percentage of germination of astilbe (which is often indicated on the packaging label), as well as possible problems when transplanting seedlings into open ground. Agree, it is much easier to buy ready-made roots with buds in a nursery and not bother yourself with unnecessary hassle of creating a greenhouse, stratifying and picking young plants and then “moving” the astilbe to the flowerbed.

However, those who like to take risks often receive a well-deserved reward. It is the seed method of growing astilbe that allows you to become an amateur breeder, experiment and get an unpredictable result - new varieties.

Note! The polymorphic properties of astilbe lead to natural consequences - seedlings partially retain the characteristics of the mother plant. Be prepared for the fact that when propagating a low-growing white flower with seeds, you will end up with a tall perennial with pink panicles.

Astilbe seeds are sown for seedlings in early March. A mixture of peat and sand (in parts 3:1) is placed in a wide container 15 cm high. A handful of snow is scattered on top, on which small seeds are distributed. Thus, conditions are artificially created for stratifying seeds and increasing their germination. Together with melting snow, astilbe penetrates into the soil.

Next, the pot is placed in a transparent bag and sent to the refrigerator for 15-20 days. After the specified period, the “greenhouse” is taken out and taken to a warm (+18 degrees), well-lit place, for example, on a balcony. Astilbe shoots should appear within 3-4 weeks. The soil should not be allowed to dry out; a spray gun is used to moisten it.

Perennial seedlings grow very slowly. If necessary, sprouts are planted in separate containers after 2-3 leaves appear. Practice shows that in most cases a full-fledged rosette barely has time to form by the end of the year, and therefore astilbe is transplanted into open ground only next spring.

Methods for planting astilbe

There are several options for growing astilbe in a summer cottage:

• planting seeds in open ground;
• planting seedlings obtained personally at home;
• rooting of perennial cuttings (renewal buds).

The first two methods cause the most debate among flower growers; the last one does not bring much trouble and 99.9% gives a good result.

How to root renewal buds purchased in February and when to plant astilbe in the ground is discussed in detail in the video on the Garden World website:

Planting seeds in open ground

This method of growing perennials in garden plots is practically not used. However, it is not advisable to exclude it from floriculture practice forever. Some gardeners are ready to bring real examples self-seeding of astilbe - cases when new plants appeared next to a varietal perennial, distinctive in appearance, but overall wonderful. By the way, this is the only way to propagate astilbe in wildlife.

In other words, growing perennials from seeds at home is possible. After the panicles fade, they do not need to be trimmed. By autumn, the seed will leave the astilbe boxes on its own. 50 or more thousand dust-like seeds will fall to the ground. In winter, wilted greenery will become a natural protection for the perennial from freezing.

Note! Experts note that many varieties of astilbe do not freeze or rot. Most often they die due to the natural aging of the rhizome. Plants vitally need to divide the root and regularly deepen it into the soil. This measure rejuvenates the perennial and stimulates growth.

After lying in the open ground for the winter, the seeds will undergo stratification and sprout sparsely in the spring. The intervention of the summer resident will not play a role in the process. Let's say, this is an uncontrolled way of propagating astilbe, where you should rely not on your own knowledge and skills, but on chance.

If the goal is to grow a perennial from purchased varietal seeds, you need to turn to the second method - obtaining astilbe seedlings.

Planting seedlings grown at home

Julia shares her experience of sowing seeds:

What are the further actions of a gardener who has managed to grow strong seedlings? How to properly plant astilbe in open ground? Compliance with the following rules of agricultural technology will be the key to successful rooting of the perennial.

Firstly, astilbe prefers loamy soil with high groundwater levels. Optimal acidity– 5.5/6.5 pH. Secondly, while the young perennial is adapting to the new environment, it is important to protect the place where the seedlings are planted, both from frost and from active sun and dry wind.

When to plant? When choosing a time, you should trust the thermometer, not lunar calendar. If there is a threat of return frosts, it is better to reschedule the event. Even light frost can destroy astilbe seedlings. In May-June, when the weather is consistently warm, seedlings are transplanted into open ground with north side at home, in partial shade using the transshipment method.

Note! There is no need to cover the plants if you first harden the astilbe by taking it out to open loggia, balcony.

Holes are dug in the flower garden, maintaining a distance of 35-40 cm. The bottom is flavored with ash. The astilbe root is lowered to a depth of 20 cm. It is important to ensure that the renewal buds are covered with soil, a layer of up to 3 cm.

After transplantation, the soil around the seedling is well mulched. Use peat or humus. Uncovered soil quickly evaporates water, and the perennial loves moist places. Astilbe is watered regularly for 10-15 days until obvious signs of rooting appear. No feeding is needed.

More details about the transfer rules on the “7 Dachas” website:

Basics of caring for astilbe

Growing perennials in open ground does not cause gardeners any problems or worries. The main thing is that the right place for the plant is chosen.

We remind you that ideal plot characterized by:

• diffused shadow created by bushes or trees;
• moist air provided by a pond or stream.

Adequate water as a vital requirement

Changing moisture conditions immediately affects the appearance of astilbe. Growing in sunny areas, coupled with a lack of moisture in the soil, leads to a smaller size of bushes and panicles.

Additionally, the following consequences are observed:

• delay in the growth of rhizomes;
• leaf fall;
• reduction of flowering time;
• loss of overall decorative effect.

With low air humidity and constant windiness, the plant can curl up and shed its leaves, astilbe burns and dries.

In this case it is necessary:

• re-mulch the soil;
• water the plant abundantly and regularly;
• spray greens;
• organize artificial shading during hot hours;
• take care of denser planting of perennials.

Note! Astilbe has the ability to crowd out weeds. The flower garden will always look well-groomed.

Drought-resistant varieties

Today, breeders have managed to develop perennial specimens that are tolerant of arid climates. Thus, Japanese astilbe is able to survive even in conditions of lack of water. The scorched greenery will die, but in the spring the plant will again throw out young shoots. Don’t rush to uproot a flower that was ruined this year. At least give the rhizome a chance to show its strength next season.

Relatively dry soil will not harm Astilbe Chinese Superba and Purpurlance.

Flowering period

The flowering time of astilbe depends on the variety and climatic conditions. In general, panicles mature within 60-120 days after awakening (exiting the dormant period).

Usually, Japanese astilbe and all low-growing varieties are the first to open, followed approximately simultaneously by simple-leaved, Thunberga, as well as medium-growing hybrids of Arends and Lemoine. Chinese perennials are closing their flowering season.

The duration of the riot of colors directly depends on the climatic features of the area and varies between 12-35 days. At the end of flowering, individual astilbes do not lose their natural color, creating the effect of an incredibly long flowering period.

Note! Gardeners note that panicles fade faster in sunny areas than in shady areas.

If there is no goal to stock up on seeds, semi-dry astilbe brushes are cut off. At the same time, the bushes do not lose their decorative properties. Red, brown, brown-green and green foliage retains its beauty until frost. The main thing is that autumn should be warm, the air should be regularly saturated with moisture, and the temperature should drop slowly (gradually).

They will teach you how to properly prune faded astilbe " Good advice»:

Loosening

Loosening allows you to increase the air permeability of the soil around the astilbe and control weeds. It is useful to hold the event 2-3 times per season.

During loosening, the soil is not turned over. The main task is to destroy the crust on the surface of the hole. The procedure is carried out carefully with an ordinary weeder, focusing on a depth of 5-10 cm.

Feeding

How to grow a healthy and strong plant? You just need to root a high-quality seedling in the ground, create a shaded environment and ensure a regular supply of moisture to the roots. Astilbe will grow, bloom and delight the gardener's eye.

It is impossible to say that a perennial vitally needs regular feeding. However, pampering your favorite bush with “goodies” is also not prohibited.

Gardeners feed astilbe 3 times a year: in the spring - with nitrogen fertilizers, in June (when it blooms) - with complex complexes, until August 10-15 - with phosphorus-potassium compounds and ash. In the latter case, the plant’s resistance to pests and diseases, as well as its winter hardiness, increases.

Reason for dividing the rhizome and time of transplantation

In a favorable atmosphere, astilbe will soon grow. The root collar rises above the ground by 3-5 cm over the course of a year. At first, it must be hilled up (sprinkled with soil), otherwise the perennial will stop blooming. After 4-5 years, the plant must be replanted.

The peculiarity of the astilbe rhizome is such that the growth of renewal buds occurs not horizontally, but vertically, and near the very surface of the earth. If young roots are left without soil cover, they will die: they will dry out in the summer or freeze in the winter.

Note! Grinding of peduncles and perennial bushes is a direct signal about the exposure of the root collar and shoots.

In one place, astilbe can grow for up to 20 years. However, in this case it is better not to wait for lush vegetative mass and large panicles. If the gardener wants to increase the decorativeness of the bush, he should regularly (with a frequency of 3-4 years) divide the rhizome into parts and replant the sections to a new place of residence. This is the most common and a separate story that deserves attention. The benefit of the event is obvious - there are more flowering bushes and the garden is more beautiful.

It is believed that best period for transplantation - spring (without frost) or autumn (late August - September). Astilbe divisions must have time to take root before wintering. To reduce the stress of a transplanted plant, the greens can be sprayed with epin or phytosporin. Adaptation will happen faster and with the least losses.

Note! Gardening practice has shown that, contrary to literary instructions, astilbes take root well at any time of active growing season, even during the flowering period!

How to care for a transplanted division? In the usual way:

• maintain soil moisture by mulching;
• feed after establishment three times a year;
• trim the discarded flower stalks once after replanting to allow the plant to grow stronger.

Preparing astilbe for wintering

Caring for a plant in the fall involves a number of activities:

• fertilizing with phosphorus and potassium;
• renewing mulch over the rhizome;
• cuttings of dried and lost decorative greenery;
• shelter from frost if necessary.

Astilbe stems are cut almost to the root. The “stumps” are hilled up on top and covered with a layer of mulch from 5 to 20 cm. Hay, leaves, sawdust, high-moor peat, and spruce branches are used.

In the fall, these materials will protect the soil and astilbe roots from weathering and washing away due to heavy rains. In winter, the shelter will eliminate the risk of soil freezing, becoming the key to the healthy development of the bush for the next season.

Practice has shown that in warm regions, astilbe is not prepared for winter. The work boils down to putting things in order personal plot. In the Far East, in areas with harsh winters, it is better to play it safe and cover the perennial “warmer”. Then in the frost and lack of snow you can sleep peacefully.

• Choose a landing site

In the wild, astilbe grows under the canopy of foliage near bodies of water, therefore, best place Partial shade and moist soil are used for planting the plant.

Astilbe does well in the shade of trees and shrubs, but the shading should not be strong.

It should be noted that at present, varieties of astilbe have appeared that allow it to be planted in sunny areas, subject to abundant watering and careful mulching of the soil in order to preserve moisture. Flowering is abundant, but short-lived.

• Select pick up time

The end of March - beginning of May or the beginning of autumn is suitable for planting astilbe.

• Prepare the ground

Astilbes grow well in moist and light soil.

A bed about a meter long needs to be dug to a depth of no more than 30 cm, then two handfuls should be added to the soil. bone meal and approximately 30 grams of complex fertilizers.

Removing remnants of weed roots and adding peat, humus or compost to the soil is the final stage in preparing the bed for planting.

Now that the soil is ready, you can proceed directly to planting the plant. The rules for planting astilbe vary depending on the material that is intended to be used for planting.

The name Astilbe means “very brilliant”, comes from the Greek words “a” - very and “stilbe” - brilliant.

First, let's look at a method suitable for flower growers who experience special pleasure in watching a luxurious bush grow from a small seed. The most favorable time for planting seedlings is mid-March - early April

Read about behind the bush.

Do you want to know more about popular garden bush Fortune's euonymus? To you .

Step-by-step instructions for planting astilbe seeds

1. To improve the germination of seeds, you should place them in a place with a temperature of -4° to +4°, and after twenty days, transfer them to a warm, bright room with a temperature above 18°.
2. Fill the planting containers with a mixture of peat and sand in a 3:1 ratio.
3. Given that astilbe seeds are tiny, they must be mixed with sand before planting in the soil.
4. Distribute the seeds evenly and carefully over the surface of the soil.
5. Using a spray bottle, water the seeds thoroughly.
6. Do not allow the soil to dry out for 3-4 weeks.
7. Seedlings should be pruned after the first leaf appears:
   remove each seedling from the soil; pinch off the root one third of the length;
8. Plant the sprout in a separate container with thoroughly moistened soil.
9. At the beginning of June, plant the seedlings in the ground.

If you intend to plant a ready-made seedling obtained from an adult plant, the following method of planting astilbe will be useful to you.

Planting a divided bush

It is advisable to mulch the soil around the bush after planting.

This method is very popular among lovers of ornamental plants.

For planting, a part of an adult astilbe bush with 1-3 buds and a root 3 to 5 cm long is used.

Planting a plant in the spring will allow you to observe lush flowering a new bush in the fall of the same year.

To plant a seedling, a bed one meter long is allocated, in which holes are formed with a depth and width of approximately 20-30 cm, at a distance of approximately 25-35 cm from each other. A mixture of 25-30 grams of mineral fertilizers and 1-2 handfuls of bone meal with ash is poured into each of them. All this is mixed and filled with water. The place for planting astilbe is ready. All that remains is to cover the planted bush with a layer of mulch consisting of pine needles, bark, leaves or sawdust.

This method of transplanting astilbe allows you to plant it even during the flowering period, subject to abundant and regular watering for two to three weeks.

Experienced gardeners use another method of planting.

Planting cuttings with a “heel”

In early spring, a renewal bud is cut out from the bush, which is a bud of an overwintered plant from which a shoot has begun to develop, along with a piece of root. This part of the rhizome is called the “heel”.

Such cuttings are planted in greenhouses using a fertilizer mixture prepared in the same way as when planting in the ground. This substrate is poured onto the soil in a layer 5-7 cm high.

To plant astilbe in the garden you will have to wait a whole year, but flowering will begin within a few months after planting.

Transfer

At the age of five years, astilbe needs to be transplanted, which is carried out in spring or early autumn.

Replanting can be done without digging up the plant completely: just separate part of it, fill the pruning area with ash and add fresh soil to the resulting hole, and transplant the resulting seedling to a new place. After such a division, astilbe will delight you with its flowering next year.

How to make it correctly and select the right materials? Snowy bush viburnum buldenezh. .

What flower beds can be made from accumulated rubbish? —

Care

In order for the planted plant to remain healthy for as long as possible and delight with its lush flowering, you need to provide it with proper care. Caring for astilbe includes a number of actions that take into account characteristic features plants.

• Watering

Astilbe roots grow upward, releasing young roots, as a result of which it is very important to prevent loss of moisture in top layer soil.

On hot days, it is necessary to water the plant twice a day: in the morning and evening hours, accompanied by watering by mulching the soil, which will prevent the soil from drying out. Insufficient soil moisture threatens the death of young plants and is the cause of withered, curled leaves and shredded inflorescences in adults. On the other hand, abundant watering in August-September helps to lengthen the inflorescences.

• Top dressing

To maintain lush and long flowering It is necessary to fertilize astilbe twice a year.

The first occurs when young shoots appear early spring. Will fit complex fertilizers with a high nitrogen content.

The turn for the next feeding comes in the fall, after the astilbe has faded. This time, preference is given to phosphorus and potassium compositions, mainly in liquid form, to avoid burns on the stem. After fertilizing, the soil needs to be loosened and mulched.

• Trimming

Astilbe pruning, during which the above-ground part of the plant is cut off at soil level, is done in late autumn.

After flowering, you can cut off all faded inflorescences, whose place will soon be taken by new leaves.

• Preparing for winter

Astilbe will withstand the most severe frosts well, if you remember that the roots of the plant growing upward reach the soil. Mulching will help save bare roots from freezing. Late autumn you should fill the gaps between the bushes with pine needles or sawdust and cover the bush with two layers of spruce branches or bark.

Protection from pests and diseases

Slobbering Penny

Astilbe is quite resistant to diseases and pests.

But it happens that she suffers from slobbering pennies and a couple of nematodes: strawberry and root-knot.

Pennitsa affects the foliage, causing the leaves to turn yellow and curl, and the plant begins to wilt.

Cicadas, living in saliva-like formations, suck out leaf tissue. In addition, they are known as carriers of phytoplasma and viral diseases. In the fight against them, karbofos, mospilan, aktara, rogor and confidor are used.

Affects foliage and strawberry nematode, the consequence of which is deformation of leaves and brown and yellow spots on them. All this has a depressing effect on the plant, and its growth slows down.

Root nematode harms the roots, living in the growths formed on them. Diseased astilbes grow and bloom poorly, and if seriously damaged, they die. You can stop the spread of pests by destroying the infected plant or using the drug Fitoverm.

Photo of astilbe

A selection of photographs of this beautiful plant, some varieties are noted

Astilbe flower, truly universal plant for decorating a dacha - you can use it to form beautiful flower beds right on the lawn, grouping flowers according to a chosen geometric shape. Low growing varieties astilbes will help you in the design of rockeries, rock gardens, and borders.

Astilbe is irreplaceable in old gardens and areas where trees have gained height; due to fruiting, they cannot be subjected to heavy pruning and therefore the garden is too shady.

Therefore, in the shady garden natural style, in which the majority garden plants refuse to grow and, especially, to bloom, astilbe is simply irreplaceable: in combination with unpretentious shade-tolerant plants, Siberian brunnera, ferns and Volzhanka, it will decorate the farthest corners of the site. And at the same time she will feel royally confident, impressing everyone with her magnificent blooms.

As a flower, it has a great many advantages and the main ones are: lush flowering, unpretentiousness to growing conditions, relative (compared to many other flowers) durability.

Features of caring for astilbe

The best place for growing astilbe on your site will be, as noted above, shady and even waterlogged areas. True, it should be noted that in the immediate vicinity of large garden trees It’s not worth planting, it will grow poorly because the trees will take away water from the soil.

When planting astilbe and caring for this flower, consider one of its interesting feature like plants, the root system of astilbe grows upward over time, which is why the roots may eventually end up in a soil layer that is poor in nutrients.

Fertilizing and regular mulching of the soil around the astilbe, as well as applying it to the periflower circles, will help you correct this situation.

Astilbe propagation

Astilbe also reproduces well by seeds, but it is usually divided simple division bushes that have grown too large.

Astilbe can be propagated in this way in autumn and spring. At autumn planting astilbe, take into account the fact that it must take root well in order to better withstand winter frosts, so it is better to plant astilbe in early autumn rather than late.

But if you are even a little late and planted a flower late and there is very little time left before the cold weather, then in this case, dig the planting in with soil before the next season, and then mulch it all with humus or peat.

Also read the main article:

How to transplant astilbe

1. Young plants are easy to divide by hand. For a powerful rhizome you will need a shovel. You don’t have to dig up the bush, just dig out a part of it.
2. Add in landing hole humus, you can add mineral fertilizers. Pour water and wait until it is absorbed into the soil. Carefully shake off the soil from the rhizome and plant the plant.
3. It is important to remember: when dividing at the end of summer (after flowering), the divisions should have 5-6 buds, this will significantly increase the plant’s chances of successfully overwintering. It is better to trim the leaves, leaving only the petioles.
4. Compact the soil around the plant, add more soil if necessary. This is necessary so that there are no air-filled voids left between the plant’s root system and the soil.
5. Regardless of soil moisture, newly planted plants must be thoroughly watered again to eliminate air pockets in the soil. Within a few days the bushes will begin to grow.

Reduce the number of planted species by increasing the number of plants of each name - your flower garden will be less variegated, but more expressive and visually more lush and voluminous.