IN household often missing circular saw, especially if started major renovation or construction. Not everyone can afford industrial products - they are too expensive. But you can make a circular saw yourself, using materials that are available in the household.

Design - main components, their purpose

A do-it-yourself stationary circular saw is created with advancement in several possible directions:

• adaptation of existing hand tools using the motor and circular saw for new possibilities;
• improvement of industrial products to expand functionality;
• assembly of individual parts, manufactured mainly in-house.

A stationary circular machine includes several main components: a table, a shaft, a motor and some others, the characteristics of which are not so important.

The table is used for fastening woodworking mechanisms. It can be assembled entirely from metal, which is preferable, especially for machines with a high-power engine. They are also made from wood good tables for circular. But it is necessary to take into account that the tabletop should be covered with a sheet of metal, otherwise the wood will soon wear out. Tables must be very rigid and stable, capable of withstanding considerable load during work. The surface is made perfectly flat; protective shields must be installed above the rotating parts.

An engine from washing machine. Portable tools are less suitable: their commutator motors are designed only for short-term work. They have very high speeds, low efficiency, and are afraid of clogging. Can be applied three phase electric motor, but if the household does not have 380 V, you will need to purchase capacitors to make it work from 220 V.

The most important component is the shaft. Use a ready-made one, if available, or machine it from round metal. Work for lathe performed in one installation, then the assembly with the working parts is checked for centering. Even minimal runout is unacceptable, otherwise during work it will become stronger, at which it is unacceptable to work. Seats are provided on the shaft: for a circular saw and for pulleys on the other side. You can also make grooves for planing knives.

Main parameters - calculation of power, speed, gear

Characteristics circular saw, engine and the maximum thickness of lumber that can be cut are interconnected. The maximum speed for which it is designed is indicated on the purchased circular disk. The number of revolutions transmitted by the engine to the shaft should be less. The engine power affects the maximum permissible saw tooth diameter. The diameter must be at least three times the thickness of the material, otherwise sawing will be difficult. It is believed that to cut materials 100 mm thick, you need a motor of at least 1 kW of power.

The transmission is made only by a V-belt - if foreign objects get under the saw, the material jams, the belt slips on the pulleys. Injuries in such cases are practically eliminated. It is important to choose the right gear ratio. We take into account two indicators: engine speed and the maximum permissible speed of the circular saw. We calculate the required pulley diameters. A pulley with a large diameter is installed on the engine, and a smaller one on the circular shaft to increase the number of revolutions.

The revolutions of the shaft with a circular saw are as many times greater than the engine revolutions as the diameter of its pulley is smaller than the diameter of the pulley on the engine.

Woodworking machine - a capital product for the home

To work with wood in large volumes, it is better to have a machine that allows you to cut the material, plan it, and select a quarter. A fairly powerful electric motor and a rigid table are required. We present a structure made of steel angle and sheet steel. It provides a cutting depth of 60 mm; you can plan boards 200 mm wide. Applicable three phase motor 1.1 kW, 2700 rpm. To connect to 220 V, capacitors are required.

1 – machine frame; 2 – panel; 3 – starter; 4 – device for height adjustment; 5.7 – work table of two halves; 6 – base; 8 – engine; 9 – platform; 10 – M10 studs; 11 – circular disk; 12 – shaft; 13 – stops of the lifting mechanism; 14 – driven pulley; 15 – belt; 16 – drive pulley; 17 – switch.

The work table has dimensions of 700×300 mm. In the drawing we see that the height of the entire structure is 350 mm. The height is insufficient for comfortable work, the circular will have to be installed on an additional platform; it weighs only 35 kg. You can increase the length and width, increase the height to 1200 mm. We adjust the remaining sizes to fit them, but design features remain unchanged.

First we make the bed frame from steel corners 25x25 mm. If we are not going to increase the height, we make another similar lower frame. For a frame with a higher height, first we weld four legs from the same corners to the upper frame, and then we tie them at a height of 15–20 cm from the bottom. The lower frame has grooves for the engine platform locking bolts. Two studs are welded to the back side of the platform, which go into holes on the back of the lower frame. By tightening the studs, we tighten the belts, then we lock the platform by tightening the nuts on the studs that go into the grooves.

To adjust the height of the table in relation to the saw, we use a simple lifting mechanism. It consists of racks, in the upper part of which we cut grooves at an angle of 45°. A total of eight racks are needed - four on each side. We weld them to the frame with grooves located in a mirror image. We attach cross members to the outer posts. We drill holes in the middle of each of them and weld nuts. Threaded shafts will move along them to regulate the lift.

Their ends rest against racks welded to frames assembled from 75x50 mm corners. We weld studs into them on the side opposite the grooves for the adjustment mechanism. The table consists of two equal halves and is attached to the frames with countersunk bolts. The adjustment mechanism works like this:

• loosen the nuts on the racks;
• we turn the screw, which presses on the stop, raising or lowering the table;
• tighten the stud nuts;
• perform a similar adjustment for the second half work surface.

The design can be simplified without installing an adjusting shaft. Raise and lower the table manually. If you assemble the table not from two halves, but from one piece, you will only need four racks for the lifting mechanism.

Hand-held circular saw – conversion to stationary

It’s easy to make a stationary one from a hand-held circular saw, expanding its capabilities. The first thing you need is a table. Comfortable material Finnish plywood will serve, which, unlike ordinary plywood, is laminated - the workpieces glide well over the surface during processing. It is thick enough to withstand a lot of weight, moisture resistant, and easy to process. You can use ordinary 20 mm plywood, but you just need to paint it, or better yet, cover it with sheet steel or textolite.

You need to understand that the depth of cut will decrease by the thickness of the cover. You will need a disk large diameter, so as not to reduce functionality compared to a portable tool. We make the dimensions of the tabletop sufficient to ensure that the workpiece fits in width. It should be added that on a wide table you can additionally strengthen an electric plane and a jigsaw, which will make the machine universal.

Using drawings and explanations, it is not difficult to make additional accessories for a circular saw, which will expand its capabilities.

We mark a rectangle of the required dimensions on a sheet of plywood, cut it out, and process the edges. Using the sole, we apply a hand-held circular saw to the surface and mark the attachment points with a pencil. We make a slot for the circular saw. You can slightly deepen the attachment point using a cutter, but not more than 10 mm, so as not to weaken the tabletop. This manufacturing method will allow you to bring the cutting depth closer to that indicated in the circular saw’s passport.

From the boards we make a frame (tsars), which we install from below to strengthen the structure. We fasten four boards into a box, glue them to the tabletop, securing them with clamps. We screw self-tapping screws into the boards across the table. We countersink the holes for them from above so that the heads of the screws are hidden. To the kings stationary saw We fasten the legs, preferably with bolts, washers and nuts. The table should be provided with additional rigidity, so we make spacers at the bottom of the legs.

We make a limit bar equal to the length of the working surface. In it we drill two grooves perpendicular to the disk, in which the bar will move and be fixed at a certain distance from the saw blade. It remains to make changes to the control system: we fix the control button in the on state with electrical tape. We install an outlet connected to the network on the drawer. We install a switch in the gap in the wire going to the saw.

Some aspects of the execution of homemade devices

No matter how well a circular machine is made, individual errors can lead to its performance being limited. This concerns, at first glance, seemingly trifles. Let's start with the bearings for the shaft. Installing conventional ones is justified if the machine is used from time to time. For homemade device With constant use, it is better to install self-aligning bearings. They consist of two rows of balls and are adjusted by tightening the clamping nut. Be sure to install a cover to protect against dust and chips.

On the working surface we apply a scale in centimeter increments. This will make woodworking much easier when determining the width of the cut. Many people neglect to install a protective shield over the disk, but in vain - treatment for chips getting into the eye or in more serious situations is more expensive.

When working with various materials It is often necessary to adjust the speed of the circular saw. Homemade design, as a rule, does not have the ability to regulate the engine speed. There is only one way out - the use of pulleys of different diameters. They are installed on the motor shaft. If you decide to order pulleys from a turner, immediately make a solid pulley with two or three different diameters.

Many people want to install a three-phase electric motor on a sawing machine, without having 380 V. They will need capacitors designed for a minimum operating voltage of 600 V of paper or oil-paper type.

We calculate the capacitance of the capacitors based on the power of the electric motor: for 1 kW - 100 µF for the working capacitor Av. We take the capacity of the starting joint twice as large. The SB trigger is a button that automatically returns to its original position. Startup is simple: turn on SQ, press SB for a couple of seconds. After starting, the button is released, as soon as the engine picks up speed, you can cut.

Carpentry professionals always strive to increase productivity own work. If you make a table for a circular saw with your own hands, you can make it easier for yourself to work with large quantities of lumber, while spending a minimum of money.

If you make a table for a circular saw with your own hands, you can make it easier for yourself to work with large quantities of lumber, while spending a minimum of money.

Requirements for the circular table

Before starting work, you need to understand that a table saw is a source of increased danger. Therefore, when making a table, you need to strictly adhere to technology, using only the most quality materials. Industrial tables are made of metal. But homemade devices are made from improvised or easily accessible materials, the most popular of which is wood. It should be taken into account that the final structure must be rigid and stable, and the table surface must be smooth and varnished to increase durability and optimize the work process.

List of required materials and devices

In addition to a certain amount of time and woodworking skills, you will need the following tools and materials:

• sheet of plywood with a thickness of 20 mm;
• paints and varnishes for wood processing;
• a 50x50 mm block from which the legs will be made;
• hand-held table saw;
• drill, electric jigsaw, router;
• clamps;
• pencil and a simple ruler.

Once the glue is ready, you can fasten the structure with self-tapping screws so that their heads go entirely into the tabletop. To avoid distortions, it is better not to remove the clamps at this stage. Using 2 self-tapping screws, the stiffening ribs are pulled together, after which the clamps can be dismantled. Turn the legs from a 5x10 cm board at a height comfortable for work. Typically the height is about 1 meter. The legs are attached in such a way that they are slightly spaced from the center to the edges of the structure.

Mount the saw into the previously prepared groove from the bottom of the tabletop so that the blade fits into the slot. To minimize the influence of moisture and ensure good sliding of the workpiece, the circular sawing table is coated with several layers of varnish. Mark the locations of the longitudinal stiffeners, then saw them and glue them to the tabletop with wood glue, having previously pressed them with clamps. The side stiffeners are made and attached in the same way.

When designing a table for a circular saw, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the materials that will be processed on it, because the quality of the cut will be much higher if the workpiece rests completely on the table surface. At the same time, greatly exceeding the dimensions of the workpieces leads to irrational use of the working area. The height of the table is selected for each master individually based on his height.

Making your own table for a circular table

The technology for assembling a table for a hand-held circular saw is not difficult for an experienced carpenter. To make a table for a circular saw with your own hands, you need:

1. Take a sheet of plywood with a thickness of at least 20 mm and make a tabletop blank from it. To do this, mark the sheet with a pencil according to predetermined dimensions, saw it electric jigsaw. The resulting workpiece is processed manual router, and then sanded with coarse or medium sandpaper.
2. Mark the underside of the tabletop for the circular saw. To do this, you can use a circular saw with the blade removed, installing it in the desired place and marking the dimensions of the sole. In this section of the workpiece, it is necessary to cut a recess 8-10 mm high with a router.
3. Place the saw in the cut-out hole. If necessary, adjustments can be made at this stage so that the tool is stable on the tabletop. When everything is adjusted, you can mark the tool attachment points and the slot for the disk. If the material needs to be sawed under different angles, this must be provided for when marking. Then the cross-section of the slots must be made trapezoidal with the apex pointing downwards.
4. Mark the bottom of the tabletop for stiffening ribs, which will be located along the entire perimeter of the table at a distance of 70-100 mm from its edge. After this, you need to attach the board to the tabletop and trace it. On the center line you need to mark places for self-tapping screws located 50 mm from the edges of the ribs every 150-200 mm. According to the completed markings, you need to drill through holes.

This way you get a simple but reliable homemade table, on which you can easily work with workpieces of certain dimensions.

Many home craftsmen dream of cutting their own lumber. This is not a difficult task, but without suitable equipment it is almost impossible. So why not use a hand-held circular saw for this and assemble a table with your own hands with the ability to make longitudinal and transverse cuts?

A completely ordinary hand-held circular saw can be used for this. The power and diameter of the disk directly depends on what and in what volume you are going to process. Remember also that fastening to a table takes up to 20 mm from the maximum cutting depth, so one-handed saws with a 120 mm blade are of little use for such purposes. The presence of functions for adjusting the depth and angle of the cut in the circular saw will give you more opportunities for fine processing of parts and cutting box grooves.

Table and base materials

For the tabletop, it is recommended to use 9 or 11 mm laminated plywood. The material really deserves to be looked for: durable, does not bend, the surface is smooth and slippery. It is ideal if at the place of purchase you order a cut according to the desired table dimensions, so that the edges and cuts are strictly rectangular. In our case, the dimensions of the tabletop will be 800x800 mm.

For body table will do almost any sheet material, For example, Chipboard thickness 16 mm. You will need four strips without pasting the ends measuring 400x784 mm. From these you need to assemble the walls of a rectangular box, fastening the planks with black self-tapping screws with preliminary drilling of the outer part by 5 mm. For strength and stability during internal corners 40x40 mm bars are installed on the assembled box; it is better to fasten it to them in the same way. The ends of the bars will be used to secure the table surface.

Such a device for stationary installation of a saw can be placed on top of any workbench of sufficient size. If you are planning a separate installation, attach long wooden blocks, which will act as legs. Do not forget that they need to be fastened at the bottom with crossbars and additional pressure must be installed for greater stability.

Securing the hand saw

Mark the longitudinal and transverse central axis on the wrong side of the plywood. Measure the width and length of your saw's support shoe and transfer them to the tabletop markings. Determine the diameter and thickness of the lower guard, and the distance it is from the edges of the support shoe. Mark a rectangle according to the obtained dimensions on the plywood and cut a hole with an electric jigsaw.

Make one hole with a diameter of 10 mm in the four corners of the shoe. Drilling locations are arbitrary. Place the saw blade in the groove of the tabletop and align the shoe with the marking. Mark the centers of the holes made on the plywood and transfer them to the back side with a thin drill bit.

If there is not enough room in the support shoe to drill such large holes, use two steel plates with welded 6 mm studs, attach them to the base of the saw with wing nuts backed by star washers. In this case, remove the saw to self made and returning it to its place without additional adjustment will be a matter of five minutes. The plates, in turn, have one large hole each for reliable installation and initial adjustment of the position of the saw.

To fasten the saw to the tabletop, you need to use M8 plowshare bolts with a countersunk conical head. Under them, an 8 mm hole is drilled from the front side and a countersink is made for the cap, which, when untightened, should protrude no more than 1 mm above the surface. WITH reverse side the bolts pass into the holes of the support shoe (or steel plates) and are tightened under a wide and spring washer, or a nut with a plastic lock.

If the fitting was successful, the tabletop needs to be secured to the frame. In the four corners of the plywood board you need to drill one hole, the same as for attaching the saw. The distance from the edges is half the side of the bar used plus the thickness of the box wall, in our case it is 30 mm. A 10 mm hole is drilled in the center of each block, and a steel fitting M8x18 mm is screwed inside.

Once the tabletop is secure, turn the table on its side so you can access the blade and saw mounting points at the same time. Putting it away for a while protective cover, align the saw blade along the longitudinal axis of the table using a saw blade and a square. After adjusting the disc, tighten the fastening nuts thoroughly. Using a ruler or level attached to the disk, mark the edges of the table and draw a line for the cutting plane along them. Run an awl along the line several times, leaving a shallow furrow; such markings will definitely not be erased after long use.

Start button and electrics

The standard power button must be bypassed, and if this is not possible, clamp it with a clothespin or a tourniquet. Instead of a button on the handle, a small electrical network installed inside the box will be used.

On the outer front side of the box, install a double “Start/Stop” button with locking. Its normally open contact is connected to the power cable break. The ends of the wire are connected to plug socket, screwed with inside.

After the saw is connected and tested in operation, it is necessary to pull a nylon stocking folded in three onto the air intake grille.

It is convenient to trim parts in the presence of a thrust beam, which moves along guides along the cutting line. This can be made from ordinary 9 mm plywood.

You only need a few planks:

• 150x250 mm 2 pcs.
• 100x820 mm 2 pcs.
• 150x820 mm 1 pc.
• 142x300 mm 1 pc.

As before, it is preferable to cut plywood using precision equipment. Three long planks need to be assembled in the shape of a channel 150 mm wide and with shelves of 100 mm. Since the heads of the screws will face the tabletop, you need to first drill out the plywood for them and recess the fasteners, and then sand the marks with sandpaper. It is safer to use confirmats instead of self-tapping screws.

Boards 150x250 mm are screwed like channel plugs, the free ends are directed downwards. The remaining strip is screwed between the shelves exactly in the center. If this beam is placed on a table, the side boards will drop down the sides of the box with a gap of about 10mm on each side.

Use full extension furniture slides with ball bearings. First attach them to the beam, and then try them on and screw them to the body. The mounting holes are oblong, use them to adjust the beam: it should slide over the tabletop with very little clearance and at right angles to the cutting plane. Run the beam once with the saw running to make a cut at the bottom. To quickly remove and install the beam, it is recommended to unclip the plastic clips on the guides in advance.

Adjustable rip fence

It is much easier to unravel the forest if there is a longitudinal stop. It can be made from a regular aluminum cornice or other lightweight profile with a perfectly straight edge and stiffening ribs. You will need a piece along the length of the table, that is, 800 mm.

Make two 8 mm holes 150 cm from the edges and insert an M8 bolt into them, oriented with the thread down. Screw on the nut without the washer and tighten tightly. Draw two lines at the same distance from the edges of the table. At their intersection with the center line of the tabletop, drill 12 mm holes. One more hole is drilled along the same lines with an indentation of 30 cm. Using a router or jigsaw, make two thin slots, it is advisable to make the cut as evenly as possible.

The stop profile is inserted with bolts into these slots; after adjustment, it can be tightened using wings with a wide washer on the inside. If the cutting width needs to be changed frequently, equip the table body with door hinges for easy opening. To quickly adjust the stop, attach pieces of tape from a tape measure to the ends of the table.

A hand-held circular saw is a powerful mechanism with significant productivity. One of the key advantages of a circular saw is excellent maneuverability. But there are also disadvantages, especially if you need to cut large sizes tree. To make the process easier, you can simply make a table for the circular saw yourself.

Design requirements

Experienced craftsmen are ready to create a table for a circular table with their own hands without any techniques or drawings. However, certain conditions still need to be taken into account.

The essential requirements include:

The availability of different functions depends on the working conditions and wishes of the specialist. These include the ability to carry out high-quality longitudinal and cross cuts.

Standard products, of which shopping centers hundreds, made from stainless steel. This is wonderful material , but further we consider the production of a table for a saw from wood.

Table design for a manual circular saw is so elementary that most specialists produce it without preparatory drawings and techniques. This is a dense workbench that is created from wood and plywood.

Most solid foundations for the table is made from alloy. They are the heaviest and require the presence of welding skills. Therefore, stands are often made from leftover lumber. A circular saw is attached under the tabletop, and the drive protrudes above it through a specially made slot. The lumber is advanced along the table top and sawn with a disk. For convenience and correct operation, the table is equipped with additional devices: an angular and longitudinal stop.

The tabletop “absorbs” part of the working plane of the disk; the depth of cut will decrease by the thickness of the tabletop. For this reason, it is preferable to choose a circular With largest diameter disk, and the table cover is thin but rigid.

If you have not purchased an electric saw yet, choose modifications with high power (from 1200 W). They can handle cutting large-sized wood. Holes will be drilled to secure the base. The solid base may burst. For this reason, it is advisable to select a mechanism of a different type.

Material selection

To make a circular table with your own hands, you need to remember carpentry skills, have a lot of patience and a small number of materials and devices.

Materials:

Devices:

• jigsaw;
• screwdriver;
• drill;
• ruler.

The volume of the countertop will depend on the workshop area. Along with this, on small table It will be uncomfortable to cut large sections. If the part is completely fits on the working plane, the cut is made smoother and more accurately. The height of the legs is chosen depending on the height of the master.

Working with a circular saw is very dangerous, for this reason you need to worry about protecting your fingers. From a piece of plank or furniture board cut out the pusher.

Additions to the completed design

Some craftsmen, when assembling a table for a hand-held circular saw according to unique drawings, completely remove the factory safety cover and replace the factory platform with a homemade one. If cutting at an angle is not planned, you can remove all devices for adjusting the tilt of the disk. The electric saw is fixed directly to the new base, which makes it possible to gain a couple of millimeters of cutting depth.

Without inner casing It is easier to remove the disc; the electric saw will not become clogged with shavings when working with wet boards. Dismantling will require extra time, but the service life of the motor is preserved and overload is prevented.

Mounting a circular saw

The matter remains small. The circular electric saw is located inside the prepared hole. The sole is secured with bolts, and the gear drive must fit freely into the socket.

The table for the circular saw is almost ready. Now it needs to be treated with a moisture-protecting material, then coated with varnish in several layers (to minimize slipping).

The resulting system can be supplemented with anything at the user’s discretion (safety cover, device for adjusting the tilt of the disk, carriage, etc.).

A few words about electronics

A circular saw is electrical special equipment that operates from a 220 V power source. If the user has sufficient knowledge and skill in the field of electronics, he is able to bypass the start and pause keys of the saw, and then move them to a convenient place (usually this is outer side 1st of the stiffeners).

If the model seems complicated, you need to tighten the start button with a wire, and turn on the special equipment using a power cord. However, this method is bad because it eliminates the possibility of quickly turning off the device in the event of an emergency.

Safety requirements

1. One of the most common causes of injuries when using a circular saw is considered to be a cluttered workplace. In addition, it is important to monitor the stability and strength of absolutely all components of the system, and if there is imbalance, take measures to eliminate difficulties.
2. Before connecting the saw, you must make sure that it is well secured. If necessary, tighten the screws/bolts.
3. It is strictly forbidden to hold the material close to the cutting site! This is dangerous as knots and chips bounce into the eyes or onto open parts of the body. Be sure to wear glasses before work and clothes with sleeves.

Making your own table for a saw is not the same not an easy task, as it may seem. If you have it on hand good material, its characteristics are chosen correctly, and the power of the device ranges from 500 to 1000 W, the above instructions will be the basis of the work.

You should not lose sight of the fact that at any stage of table production you should control the accuracy of your own operations. Otherwise, if deviations in size or deformation of the legs appear when the ribs are tightened, it will be very difficult to restore stability. However, the production of a circular table with my own hands- absolutely real challenge for several hours.

Additional Important Information

Carpentry work required special attention. If you want to make a high-quality and highly reliable table for a circular saw with your own hands, then be well prepared for the work.

Do the following:

Using this article as inspiration, you can make a durable table saw stand for your circular saw.

A circular saw is a tool that no one can do without. home handyman. This equipment is especially relevant for country house or dachas. But work manual machine It’s not always convenient, and factory machines are quite expensive.

A way out of this situation may be to make this device yourself. The basis of this machine can be not only a hand-held circular saw, but even an electric drill or grinder.

Make a bed for circular saw DIY is very simple. For production you will need the most regular lumber and quite a bit of time.

Before you think about the design of the upcoming machine, you need to calculate the load to which it will be subjected. The main thing in the bed is reliability and stability. For powerful production saws, the base is a welded reinforced metal structure. But you don’t need such a unit to use it yourself.

If you have just decided to make your own woodworking machine, then you need take into account the main parameters equipment. Since saws can be different, naturally, the design of the bed can also be different.

First of all you need determine the power of the tool. As a rule, for home use choose equipment where the power parameters do not exceed 850 Watts. But, for example, when building a summer house or country house, it is often necessary to cut a very large amount of wood.

That is, more circular power is required. But experienced craftsmen It is not recommended to buy saws where this figure is more than 1250 watts. Installing this equipment in a home workshop is absolutely not justified. And working on it will only increase electricity costs.

The greater the productivity of the machine, the more stable the base is needed. For professional circular saws, as a rule, a base is installed, welded from steel profile . Sometimes these frames are even concreted into the floor. Because vibration of the device can cause danger to life.

Technical features of circular machines

Depth of the proposed cut. The thickness of the material that will be processed on your machine depends on this parameter. This figure in semi-professional and professional machines ranges from 5 to 8 cm. For cutting boards and thick plywood, this is quite enough.

But working with logs on this machine will be inconvenient. In addition, you need to take into account that this characteristic has homemade saw decreases. The depth of the cut will be approximately 1 cm less. But this can be avoided if you provide in the table frame the ability to lower or raise the disk.

When making a tool with your own hands, you need take into account the frequency of its rotation. If you need a circular saw to prepare building materials, then this figure may be less. If a clean and even cut is needed, then the rotation speed is needed quite high. This is needed, for example, for making furniture.

But even in this case, there are certain nuances. For cutting plastic materials This saw is not suitable. Due to very high tool speeds the disk is warming up, and the plastic begins to melt.

Therefore, it is better to choose a device where the rotation speed is no more than 4500 rpm; in this case, the bed for a circular saw can be make from wood. The vibration of this machine is low and additional reinforcement of the table is not required.

Well, in the end, what needs to be considered is the location of the buttons and other controls on your machine. When assembling the saw with your own hands, do not forget that access to the control panel must be safe. This rule is even more important when the open part of the saw is located at the bottom of the tabletop.

In this design, it is best to place the panel with switches from the outside of the machine or make a rising tabletop. This design is also convenient for servicing the device. Then, when you have taken into account all the nuances and little things, you can begin directly assembling the table.

Making a circular saw with your own hands

The simplest version of the frame for a circular saw is a structure made of boards and thick plywood. Moreover, the tool is directly attached to the bottom of the stationary tabletop. A special slot is made in the table top for the saw.

The dimensions of the table can be changed according to how convenient it is for you to work on it. As an example, an average table is described, the height of which is 110−120 cm. But a lot depends on the height of the person working with the equipment. You can also change the length of the tabletop according to your wishes.

If you plan to work with boards that are longer than 2.6 m, then the cover on the frame will need more. In this case, changes must be made directly to the design and additionally add some supports(legs). Otherwise, the table will create strong vibrations.

For countertops usually plywood is used, which has a thickness of at least 5 cm. But you can also choose plexiglass or fiberglass slabs. But professionals do not recommend using chipboard; this material is not reliable enough.

Tools and materials for assembly

For a circular saw, it is imperative to provide guides. They help cut wood much more accurately. This design welded from angle steel and fixed to the lid with clamps.

It is not advisable to attach stationary guides, since in the future you will not be able to change their position.

To build a table you will need the following materials:

• sheet of iron;
• plywood sheet;
• timber measuring 50×50 mm;
• board size 50×100 mm;
• steel corner for guides;
• two clamps;
• hand circular saw.

You also need to first prepare all the tools that will be needed to assemble the table:

1. Screwdriver, electric drill.
2. Hacksaw or electric jigsaw.
3. Tools for measurements (tape measure, square, ruler).
4. Hand cutter or milling machine.

When everything is prepared, you can begin assembling the table itself. Sometimes craftsmen assemble countertops from unnecessary dining or kitchen tables. But this design is unlikely to last long. Therefore, it is much more reasonable to make all the design elements yourself. In this case, you can also take into account your personal needs.

Making a table top for a circular saw

Assembling the table begins with making the tabletop. plywood sheet Marked so that the two edges of the lid are the same size as the edges of the iron sheet. Plywood is cut out using a hacksaw or jigsaw.

The edge of the cut can be processed with a milling cutter, but this operation is not necessary. Since the main parameter in the frame is reliability, and not an attractive appearance. The tabletop is rubbed “roughly” with sandpaper.

Mark the bottom of the tabletop slot for circular circle . To do this, you first need to measure the dimensions of the sole of the unit. The easiest way to do this is to unscrew the disk from the device and simply circle the desired part of the saw. These measurements are required to determine the seat.

With the help hand cutters choose bars to a depth of approximately 0.9−1.1 cm. If you do not have a cutter, then this work can be done using a chisel, but it will take much more time.

Then when seat done, try on the saw and, if necessary, adjust the recess. Mark the slot locations for the circle and fixing the fasteners. If you need the circle to rise and fall, then you need install the pendulum mechanism for the countertop.

In this case, the slot must be made in the shape of a truncated pyramid. In this case, the hypothetical top of the pyramid will be directed downward. Directly frame for lifting mechanism best make from steel angles, which are welded to each other.

Making a table frame

Markings for fixation cross slats and longitudinal ones, which serve as stiffening ribs, are best installed on the wrong side of the tabletop. The planks themselves are made from timber. You will need:

• Two transverse parts, length equal to the width of the table top minus 7-9 cm on each side.
• Two longitudinal ribs, the size equal to the length of the lid minus 7-9 cm on each side.

Then you need make sockets for self-tapping screws. The slats must be fixed on the lid so that the tabletop extends 7-9 cm beyond the edges of the frame. The fasteners must be as reliable and durable as possible.

The first fastener should be installed approximately 40-50 mm from the edge of the rail. The distance between the screws is approximately 23-25 ​​cm. All details need to drill through. The self-tapping screw is attached to the side of the lid so that its head is completely recessed into the wood.

First, the transverse ribs are secured. In order for the table top to be as strong as possible, the edges of the slats must first be apply wood glue. The structure is fixed with clamps, and without removing them, screws are screwed in.

Allow the tabletop to dry completely. Afterwards, the longitudinal slats are installed in the same way. Then the parts of the frame are pulled together, installing two fasteners on each side. Now the clamps can be removed.

Attaching the legs (supports)

The table legs are made of timber. The height of the supports is selected individually. In practice, it is most convenient to work at the machine when the tabletop located at hip level. Before fastening, each support must be planed so that the leg goes down to an angle from below. So, the area of ​​the base of the support should be slightly larger, in contrast to the area of ​​the top.

It is best to secure the legs using steel corners. They need to be pressed a little so that the base of the machine is in the “spacer”. This gives the table extra durability. Bolts with washers are used as fasteners; they are secured with their heads facing outward. Otherwise, during work you can be injured by the protruding parts of the fasteners.

The whole structure will be more stable if additional supports are tightened with diagonal slats. They are attached in pairs on each side of the machine.

Cover surface polished and varnished or used for coating steel sheet, which is attached to self-tapping screws. At the very end, the instrument is attached directly to the prepared place.

On the table top you can make additional markings, it will help you cut wood smoothly and correctly. The control panel of the circular saw is located on outside machine As a rule, it is mounted on one of the table legs. That's all, your DIY circular saw is ready.