Regulatory documents stipulate that a portable fire extinguisher must be at least ten years old, however, in practice, extinguishing devices are used less, as this is often affected by external conditions. Since the metal cylinder containing the extinguishing mixture belongs to the category of pressure vessels, a periodic examination must be carried out in the laboratory with a high pressure test and the imprint of a state verifier. If verification fails, what could be caused for various reasons, then the container is written off and cannot be used for its intended purpose.

Air receiver from a fire extinguisher cylinder

Such a container cannot be used for industrial purposes, but in everyday life it is quite possible. Metal vessels that can withstand significant pressure are not a cheap pleasure. You can make a receiver from a household compressor, which is always in demand in the garage and is almost as good as its factory counterparts. A carbon dioxide fire extinguisher cylinder with a capacity of at least ten liters is suitable for this purpose; this is the only way to ensure uniform air pressure at the outlet.

The fact is that they are equipped with cast cylinders, which allows them to withstand pressures of up to 1000 atmospheres. Before use, you should make sure that the container is truly seamless, the shut-off and release device is equipped with a ¾-inch thread, and the fire extinguisher itself is empty, then disconnect the shut-off device from the cylinder. The inner surface of the container must be carefully inspected for signs of corrosion and, if necessary, cleaned.

You can make a receiver from a fire extinguisher with your own hands no less effectively than if it were a factory-assembled one. Appearance will become more aesthetically pleasing if removed from the balloon old paint using a grinder, then prime and cover with a new one.

• Instead of an inverted seal, a plumbing cross must be screwed into the neck of the cylinder to seal it threaded connections hereinafter, you should use FUM sealing tape, and apply an oil and petrol resistant sealant on top of it.
• A pressure switch should be connected to the upper output of the crosspiece, and to one of the side check valve with a fitting for an oil and petrol resistant hose.
• An oxygen reducer with a shut-off valve is connected to the remaining output. The reducer allows you to smooth out pressure surges and obtain a dense stream of air.
• When the receiver is assembled, a metal frame is welded onto it, into which the electric motor and supercharger are attached.

Steam generator from fire extinguisher

Making a steam generator from a fire extinguisher is also not difficult, since the main component - a reliable container - is already available. It is used to produce steam necessary for cleaning parts.

It is necessary to get rid of the dirt, clean it inner surface from corrosion, then screw the squeegee into the neck. Liquid will be poured through it and steam will come out from here. To seal threaded connections, paronite gaskets are used that are resistant to high temperature and FUM tape.

To supply steam, a special hose is used, onto the end of which it is necessary to attach a constricting nozzle, which will increase the outlet flow rate and its pressure.

How to make a stove from a fire extinguisher

What can be made from a fire extinguisher while spending minimal money on consumables? The remaining old cylinders can be used to make a potbelly stove. This fairly simple device is ideal for heating an unheated garage, tent, and other similar cases.

Before manufacturing, it is necessary to unscrew the seal, and then cut off the tapering neck with a grinder or acetylene cutter so that only an even cylinder remains. A plate corresponding to the diameter of the cylinder is cut out of a sheet of metal and welded to the place where the cone is cut. The result is a flat heating surface used to heat food.

Just below the middle of the cylinder, cut a rectangular hole for the door and near the very bottom, a slightly smaller hole for the blower. You can use cut out pieces of the cylinder as doors; you just need to weld the canopies and handles. Supports are welded to the bottom of the cylinder, and on the side opposite the doors, a round hole under chimney. You can make a chimney adapter yourself or purchase a ready-made one and weld it around the hole.

A fire extinguisher stove, like any other, will work much more efficiently with a high chimney.

The chimney is purchased in the form of separate segments made of sheet steel, so if the stove is planned to be moved, it can always be assembled in a new location. If the stove is installed permanently, then it is advisable to install a corrugated pipe.

You can also make a lot of other useful household things from it, since the steel used for casting cylinders has high-quality strength characteristics.

When starting to manufacture something, you should definitely make sure that there is no extinguishing agent in the cylinder by pressing the release button and only then start working.

Simple air compressor, with which you can perform painting work or inflate car tires, you can make it yourself from scrap materials. Homemade compressor will work no worse than its factory analogues, and the costs of its production will be minimal.

You can make a mini compressor for connecting a spray gun or airbrush from a car pump, improving it a little. Modernizing the compressor will increase its power (performance) and will consist of adapting it to a voltage of 220 V (instead of 12 V), connecting the device to the receiver and installing automation.

Adaptation of the device to 220 V voltage

To connect the car pump to a 220 V network, you will need to find some power supply (PSU), the output of which will be 12 V and the current strength suitable for the device.

Advice! A power supply from a computer is well suited for this purpose.

You can find out the current consumed by the device by looking at its nameplate. In this case, the power supply from the PC (see figure above) will be quite sufficient in terms of current and voltage.

So, if you plug the electrical cord into your PC's power supply and turn it on, nothing will happen. This is explained by the fact that the power supply will not turn on until it receives a signal from the PC. To simulate turning on a PC, on the connector coming out of the power supply, you need insert the jumper. You will need to find among the many conductors one wire that is green and the other wire that is black, as shown in the following photo.

These wires can be cut and twisted, but it is better to short them with a jumper.

Since the car pump has plug for connecting to the car cigarette lighter, then you can cut it off and connect the device with the corresponding color wires from the power supply.

But it will be better if you buy a car cigarette lighter and connect it to the power supply, and connect the device itself using a standard plug.

There are 3 wires coming out of the cigarette lighter: red – “+”, black – “-” and yellow – “+”, intended for connecting the LED. Connect the conductors to the cigarette lighter, observing the polarity (see photo below).

If you insert the plug from the device into the cigarette lighter, you will get a 220 V electric air compressor, capable of not only inflating tires, but also working with an airbrush.

Connecting additional elements

To connect the device to the receiver, it is necessary to assemble the structure shown in the diagram below.

This harness includes the following elements.

1. Cross, having all outputs with BP1/2. The marking means: “BP” - internal thread, “1/2” - thread diameter in inches.
2. Tee, has all outlets with HP1/2 (“HP” - external thread).
3. Valves in the amount of 2 pcs. (BP1/2 – BP1/2). Designed to block air movement in both directions. Double marking means that there is an internal thread on both sides of the valve.
4. . Designed to allow air to flow in one direction only. You can install a simple spring valve BP1/2 - BP1/2. If you plan to work with a pressure of 6-7 bar, then it is necessary to select a check valve that does not have plastic parts.
   
   
5. Straight nipple, is an adapter having 2 external threads (HP1/2).
6. Adapter nipple HP1/2 – HP1/4. Allows you to change from one diameter external thread to another.
7. Extension(60 mm) HP1/2 – HP1/2. This is the same nipple, only straight. That is, the thread at both ends has the same diameter.
8. Transitional coupling. It is an adapter from an internal thread of one diameter to an internal thread of another. In this case, from BP1/2 to BP1/8.
9. Tee, having all outputs already with HP1/8 thread.
10. Straight coupling VR1/8 – VR1/8. Has 2 identical internal threads.
11. Hose adapter HP1/8.
12. Pressure regulator (pressostat) with moisture-oil separator. The pressure switch allows you to maintain the air pressure in the receiver not lower than the minimum and not higher than the maximum permissible level. A moisture separator may not be installed if the unit will be used as a tire inflator. When using the unit for painting, installing a moisture-oil separator is a must.
    
    

    

    The above piping diagram assumes 2 outlet fittings: the first for venting air to the spray gun (airbrush), and the second for inflating tires.

13. Adapter nipple HP1/4 – HP1/8.
14. Futorka(HP1/4 – BP1/8), is an adapter from a larger external thread diameter to a smaller internal thread diameter.
15. Pressure gauges. These devices allow you to visually monitor the level of air pressure in the receiver and at the supply to the main line.

When assembling all elements it is necessary use thread sealant, for example, fum tape. Pressure gauges can be connected via cut-offs of high pressure hose. The latter should be pulled onto the adapters and secured with clamps.

Pressure gauges can be screwed directly onto the thread, without using hoses, if you do not need to display them on the front panel of the unit.

What the compressor piping looks like when assembled according to the diagram is shown in the following photo.

The receiver for an auto compressor can be made from metal pipe large diameter, welded on both sides, a fire extinguisher or a gas cylinder. If the compressor is supposed to work only with an airbrush, then a regular tubeless wheel from a passenger car can serve as the receiver.

Important! When selecting a container for the receiver, you should take into account the fact that the car pump can operate for no more than 10 minutes. continuously. Accordingly, the volume of the receiver should be small (about 20 liters) so that the device can raise the air pressure in it to the required level before 10 minutes have passed.

A simple version of the unit from a fire extinguisher/gas cylinder

Making a compressor with your own hands using a fire extinguisher or gas cylinder as a storage tank for air is quite simple. For example, the compressor unit itself, if you need to make a powerful unit, you can take from a Zilov compressor. But first it needs a little tweaking.

You should drill 2 holes in each connecting rod (assembled, together with the liners) and 1 hole in each connecting rod cap.

When the unit is operating, the oil in the crankcase will flow through these holes to the liners and reduce friction between them and the crankshaft.

If you take fire extinguisher for receiver, then you first need to remove all unnecessary parts from it, leaving only the container itself and the lid.

The cast iron lid should be threaded to ¼ inch. It is also necessary to place a rubber gasket under the cast iron lid, if it was not there, and tighten the lid using fum tape to seal the threads.

The steps to connect all the strapping elements were described at the beginning of the article. But, since this unit is made from a ZIL 130 compressor, and is more powerful than the one previously considered, it will require the installation of a safety (emergency) valve. It will release excess pressure if for some reason the automation does not work.

You can also do gas cylinder compressor. But first you need to release the gas from the cylinder, and then tighten the valve. Next, you need to completely fill the cylinder with water to remove any remaining gas. The container should be rinsed with water several times and, if possible, dried. Usually installed under the cylinder gas burner and evaporate all moisture from the container.

A fitting is screwed into the hole where the valve was placed, and a crosspiece is screwed into it, to which the automation and the entire harness are attached. It is necessary to drill a hole in the lower part of the cylinder and weld a fitting to it to drain the condensate. You can install a regular water tap on the fitting.

For mounting on the engine receiver and compressor unit is being manufactured frame made of metal corner. The mounting bolts are first welded to the cylinder. The frame will be attached to them (see photo below).

Important! The engine for this unit should have a power of about 1.3 -2.2 kW.

You can also make your own compressor for inflating tires. from a chainsaw which cannot be repaired. The device is made from an engine, that is, from a piston block: the output hose is connected through a check valve instead of a spark plug, and the exhaust gas hole is closed. To rotate the crankshaft, you can use either an electric motor or a conventional electric drill.

An air compressor made from a refrigerator, or rather, from its unit, is the quietest. But you should know that such a device no different high performance . With its help, you can only inflate car tires or work with an airbrush. For normal operation Various pneumatic tools (screwdriver, grinder, spray gun, etc.) will not have enough performance of this unit, even if you connect a large volume receiver to it. Although on the Internet you can find designs consisting of two or three compressors connected in series, connected to a large receiver.

So, the unit removed from the refrigerator has starting relay with power cord. Also coming out of the device are 3 copper tubes. Two of them are intended for air inlet and outlet, and the third (soldered) is for oil filling. If you turn on the device for a short time, you can determine which of the two tubes sucks in air and which one blows it out.

The following figure shows how to assemble the entire structure, consisting of a unit, a receiver and a pressure regulator with a pressure gauge.

Advice! Instead of an outlet filter, which sometimes bursts due to high pressure, it is better to install a moisture-oil separator. Its presence is mandatory if the device will be used for painting.

Installed on the inlet tube air filter to prevent dust from getting inside the unit. To automate the air pumping process, you can install automation in the form of a pressure switch.

DIY high pressure compressor

The high pressure compressor (HP) is made from two-stage compressor head AK-150.

As a drive you can take 380 V motor 4 kW. The rotation of the engine shaft is transmitted to the piston group shaft using an eccentric, which also serves as a drive for a plunger-type oil pump. It creates an oil pressure of about 2 kgf/cm2.

Compressed air leaving the last stage enters the fitting through an adapter with a pressure gauge installed liter cylinder, which is installed in its lower part. A valve for draining condensate is also installed here. The cylinder is filled with polished glass chips and acts as a moisture-oil separator.

Air exits from the top of the cylinder through a finger fitting. Compressor cooling is aquatic. After 45 min. When the unit operates, the water heats up to 70 degrees. The author of this unit claims that during this time you can pump 1 8-liter cylinder and 2 4-liter cylinders to 260 atm.

A compressor can bring a lot of benefits in various areas of life. Perhaps you need a device for quickly inflating car tires, or you have decided to take up airbrushing, but you don’t have the appropriate equipment, and you don’t want to buy it. You can solve this problem by making a compressor yourself. We will talk about how to do this and what is needed for this.

Make or buy

Before you learn how to make a compressor with your own hands, you need to understand how and what problems it can solve homemade version, and how to deal with them with a store-bought unit. In this regard, everything depends more on the direction for which you need a compressor. If you need it for simple tire inflation, then you can use a homemade one.

It’s another matter if you are drawn to creativity. It doesn't have to be airbrushing to trip over imperfections. home option. The thing is that painting requires a uniform and uniform air flow. It should be free of debris and other small particles.

If these conditions are not met, grainy paintwork or other types of defects may result. This is what you should think about first when you see photos of homemade compressors.

To all of the above, you can also add heterogeneous stains and drips, which will be a problem even when painting a bicycle frame, let alone car parts.

Despite this, both types of compressors are designed pretty much the same when it comes to the basics. In any case, you need a reservoir in which the air is under high pressure. It can be generated by manual injection, or it can appear from mechanical action.

If the first option is cheaper to implement, then it is worth considering that the work will be much more difficult, because you will constantly need to monitor the pressure level inside the compressor.

If the compressor is equipped with additional automation, all you need to do is add oil or change it from time to time. The result of the operation of such a device will be a constant and uniform supply of air, which can play a very important role for you.

Preparation

Here we come to step by step instructions for assembling a compressor at home. If we talk about its advantages, then first of all it is worth remembering the volume of operation, because such a unit will work significantly quieter than the factory version. To do this, you will need to tightly connect all the components, but this work is worth the effort.

What can you make your own compressor from?

First, you will need something that can replace the receiver. A simple car camera works well for this. Next you will need to find a simple pump with a pressure gauge installed. It is needed to increase the air pressure inside the chamber. To this we add a simple awl, a repair kit for the wheel and a simple nipple for the camera.

First of all, you need to make sure that the chamber is still airtight and airtight. If it turns out that she cannot cope with her tasks, in conditions of increased pressure the consequences can be serious.

If during the inspection you find air leaks, then the chamber needs to be sealed, and this is best done using vulcanization.

Since our camera will serve as a receiver, we will need to make another hole in it, for which we will need a simple awl. You will need to glue the nipple into it, which I talked about earlier. It will be used to supply air inside the chamber.

For correct installation The nipple is well suited to the repair kit, which is indicated in the list of necessary parts. Next, unscrew the nipple and check how the air moves.

A DIY mini compressor is made according to the same principle, you will just need to take a smaller chamber, which will require a lower power pump. Such an installation will have lower productivity, but will have a certain compactness.

Peculiarities

After everything that was done earlier, you need to install the release valve on the nipple that was originally on the camera. It is necessary to relieve pressure if it rises too high. In order to check the performance of the device not only by direct use, it would not be superfluous to install an additional pressure gauge.

Otherwise, if you are painting, you will need to first do a test run, then look at the uniformity of the enamel or plain paint, and only then start working. This is not very convenient, and can be quite expensive, depending on the price of materials.

It is important to know that when checking the pressure level with a pressure gauge, its needle should not twitch. If this happens, you need to check the entire structure, as this is a sign that the air flow is not uniform.

In fact, the idea of ​​homemade compressors and the manufacture of one does not require any superpowers. Naturally, you will need direct hands, basic skills in working with different instruments, and the main thing is the desire to do all this. If you need a compressor for professional needs, then it is better to turn to ready-made solutions.

There are many reviews that homemade compressors work more reliably and are more durable. It is important to understand that this depends primarily on who made this unit, and the materials that were used to create it are no less important.

If you want to work in your garage or shed as a hobby, and you have enough free time to do it - why not.

DIY compressor photos

Today I will tell you how to do DIY compressor from a refrigeration pump. There is already a huge amount of varied information on this topic, but my experience is more important than someone else’s and I decided to collect it myself and tell you about it (once again)

Start

Many of us have thought about such crap as a compressor. There are many areas of application for it: from modeling to airbrushing, from painting over some imperfections in the surface to painting on home furniture. And it’s clear that this device should be as compact and quiet as possible. The market for these devices is also not empty and offers a wide variety of compressors, from simple to professional. Simple devices as a rule, they are bullshit, not worth the money thrown away, while professional ones are either unaffordable or not needed because of their “professionalism”. The middle ones are quite successful models. The main thing is to choose models with a receiver. But these models already cost around 6-8 thousand rubles. And everything would be fine, but we are not one of those who buy ready-made devices; it’s more important and enjoyable for us to make them ourselves! I assembled my own compressor for painting aircraft models.

Let's go

For the event we will need the following parts:

1. receiver (in our case - a 5 liter fire extinguisher, less makes no sense)
2. pump from the refrigerator (I got S-K140N5)
3. metal tubes and corners for the frame (I used those used when installing display windows)
4. toggle switch (to turn on/off the pump)
5. power cord 220v
6. wire for connecting a pressure switch 220V, 1 meter
7. pressure switch RDM-5 (operating pressure range: 1.0 - 5.6 atm.)
8. pressure gauge (virtually any small pressure gauge, with a scale of no more than 4 atm, will do; we won’t pump more anyway; for oxygen it will be either for argon or for some other gas - it doesn’t matter)
9. 2 fuel filters
10. fuel hose
11. 5 metal hose clamps
12. 4 metal clamps to secure the entire structure to the frame (long clamps, 40 centimeters each, although it all depends on your receiver)
13. all sorts of fittings, adapters, pressure relief valve, angles and crosses
14. fumlenta (a pair of large bobbins)

Frame

We will assemble it from iron tubes and corners. You cut it all in accordance with the dimensions of the future compressor. It is more convenient to use a "grinder" hand saw metal work will bring you quite a few hours of physical activity and lost pounds (although this may be what you need).

After which we twist all these tubes into a single structure, which will bring a lot of joy with the shine of chrome-plated surfaces and the realization that you have already achieved something on the thorny path of compressor construction. Oh, and don't forget that you will need a 6" internal hex wrench.

Receiver

As a receiver, I used an old fire extinguisher OP-4(G)-AVSE-02. The fire extinguisher was full and I had the fun of a teenager filling the garage space around me with powder mist as I emptied it. The volume of the cylinder is approximately 4.5-5 liters.

After you unscrew the cap, take out the cartridge and throw it all away, the question will come to your mind: “What should I screw onto the neck of the cylinder instead of what was there and how can I even screw something to this huge hole?” The answer is both simple and complex: you either need to find an adapter cap in the markets of your city, from a 1/2-inch cylinder, or order production. I ordered such an adapter from a factory where they make all sorts of hardware. If you order, don’t forget to mention that this crap must have edges for a key, otherwise you won’t really be able to tighten it with your hands. Ordering, by the way, is also quite simple: catch the first hard worker you come across and ask him to make this thing for an acceptable (for you) money; it cost me 200 rubles.

Pump

I got the working pump (model S-K140N5), in excellent condition, from an old refrigerator that my parents threw away. Having cleaned it of dust, I sawed off the extra tubes so that they wouldn’t interfere in the future, since hoses will be used anyway.

I pulled a piece of fuel hose onto the air inlet tube, secured it with a clamp and attached the fuel filter so that the pump did not pull any debris into itself.

And I put a toggle switch in the panel box...

I did not touch the “oil” tube while there was still oil in the pump.

The wiring node, so to speak

After looking at pictures online, I decided to get to construction market buy all the spare parts there. But it turned out to be not so simple because half of the details were missing, and the sellers knew nothing about the second half and their consultations were neither warm nor cold.

After the next assembly and having finalized the design, I realized that I did not buy all the parts and did not even buy the ones I needed. As a result, here is my list (sorry if I’m not naming any details correctly):

• 3 adapters 1/2" - 1/2"
• 1 corner 1/2"
• 2 crosspieces 1/2"
• 1 valve for bleeding air from the receiver 1/2"
• 1 adapter 1/2" - hose
• 1 adapter 1/2" - I don't know how much, for the nut on the pressure switch, it's small, I picked it up right in the store
• 1 1/2" adapter for pressure gauge (depending on your pressure gauge)
• pressure gauge
• and the pressure switch itself

Installation diagram of all parts.

All connections are wound with fumlent as follows: the first layer is wound until the thread relief is still visible under the fumlent. It screws in and out. Fumlenta "settled" in the carving. A second layer is wound, which better hides the relief of the thread - it is screwed in completely.

The entire assembly is assembled and mounted to the receiver. When installing the “ordered” adapter to the receiver, you can add a rubber gasket. If you cut it yourself, use hard, thick rubber, not something from a bicycle inner tube.

Assembling all parts into a single structure

So, we have already assembled the individual elements of the compressor, now we need to combine it all into a single structure.

We place the receiver in the frame, place the pump on it (if you got a pump without rubber feet, I strongly recommend that you come up with a replacement for them!), stretch the iron clamps through the pump legs, along the sides of the receiver and around the frame tubes. It should look something like this:

Before this, of course, we assemble the distribution unit and attach it to the receiver.

Next, we connect the hoses, cutting the fuel filter into them, for some air filtration to the receiver because The pump has a problem with it - it spits oil. And if this oil is not retained until the receiver, then ultimately there will be a swamp in the receiver that will have to be constantly drained (I don’t know how, I don’t want to twist and screw the nuts back on). It is important that the filter is not vertical, but at an angle of about 45 degrees, so that the oil accumulates at the bottom of the filter and does not drain further into the pipeline. Can be used instead of a fuel filter homemade design, which will have an oil reservoir and a non-contact (between inlet and outlet) passage for air.

Electric circuit

I think you can figure out how to connect the power cord to the pump, and even more so how to connect a toggle switch to this circuit. Consider only one thing: the pressure switch is designed to turn on the pump and turn it off when certain pressures are reached, the values ​​of which are set on the relay itself (see the manual for the relay). Therefore, you must remember to include a relay in the electrical circuit, but so that the toggle switch is in the circuit BEFORE the relay, turning off the entire system as a whole.

Tests

After collecting everything into a single “organism,” you need to test it. I tested the compressor without an airbrush and a pressure reducer, because... At the time of writing this post, these things had not yet been delivered from the online store. I closed the exit to the airbrush with a plug.

Let's turn it on! The pump began to pump, the pressure gauge shows an increase in pressure. We pump up to about 3 atm. Turn it off. We listen to see if there is a whistle somewhere, if there is an air leak, if the plastic fuel filters have burst (mine still haven’t burst, which means they can withstand this pressure). Now, following the manual for the pressure switch, we set it to the required limits. I set the upper limit to 2.8 atm. (pump turns off), lower - 1.9-2.0 atm. (pump turns on). The reducer will now be able to regulate the output pressure for the airbrush.

Ready

So you and I have collected another refrigeration pump based compressor, a fire extinguisher as a receiver and several parts. The device is simple, quite compact (for a homemade one!), works great and, most importantly, QUIET! I spent about 2.5 thousand rubles on all the details, which is at least two times less than the industrial standard. But I did it myself!

I wish you good luck in assembling this device!

Using a 12-volt compressor, you can pump up tires, remove debris and dust, blow out (clean) grill elements, inflate balls, supply compressed air to a spray gun, etc.
If the compressor is equipped with a receiver, its operating mode will be easier. After all, such a container creates a supply of compressed air, which allows you to take breaks in the operation of the compressor.

At the same time, the quality of the supplied air will increase, since the receiver equalizes the pressure, smoothes out pulsations, cools the compressed air supplied from the compressor, and collects condensate.

Required accessories

Our installation will consist of two main parts: a compressor and a receiver - the fire extinguisher body. For safe and reliable operation device, it is important that the pressure created by the compressor (140 psi ≈ 10 bar ≈ 10 kg/sq.cm) does not more pressure, for which the fire extinguisher body is designed (20 bar ≈ 20 kg/sq.cm).

To create an installation that operates in automatic mode, we will need the following accessories:

• a shut-off unit on the receiver with a system of threaded channels;
• safety valve;
• pressure gauge with scale in bars;
• switch pressure switch;
• valve in the form of a ball valve;
• spiral and linear hoses;
• air gun;
• 12 Volt battery;
• fittings, unions and adapters.

To assemble individual units into a single whole, we will need:

• keys and pliers;
• drill and crimper (means for crimping wire lugs);
• hacksaw and scissors;
• O-rings and FUM tape;
• knitting wire and double-sided tape;
• piece plastic pipe.

Making a receiver from a fire extinguisher housing for a 12 V compressor

It is better to choose a fire extinguisher with a large volume for the receiver. In this case, its efficiency when working in tandem with a compressor will be higher.
Next, we unscrew the shut-off valve with a hose, shake out its contents from the body (usually this is a substance based on ammonium phosphates, as it is the cheapest, but there may be other compositions).

Then we wash the inside of the fire extinguisher body clean water several times. Wipe the outside of the container with a clean cloth and dry the inside with a hair dryer.

Receiver equipment

Before this stage of work, we once again compare the characteristics of the compressor and the former fire extinguisher housing, and make sure that our receiver will meet the capabilities of the compressor in all respects.

We screw a locking assembly with a central channel and four threaded side holes into the neck of the metal container.

We screw a safety valve into one of the side channels, adjusting it to a lower opening pressure.

Of the two pressure gauges available, we select the one that is calibrated in bar pressure units, and also screw it into the other side channel on the locking unit.

In the two remaining channels we screw in an adapter and a pressure switch - the main element of the automation system, which turns on the compressor when the pressure in the receiver becomes less than the operating one.

We screw a ball valve into the shut-off unit from above to supply compressed air from the receiver or its shut-off.

Next, using a set of rubber rings, FUM tape and keys, we seal and strengthen the joints of all elements with the locking unit and the latter with the body of the future receiver.

It remains to screw onto the ball valve, also using an O-ring and FUM tape, an adapter for installing a spiral hose, at the other end of which a tool powered by compressed air (we have a pneumatic gun) will be attached through the same adapter.

Compressor piping

We first check its functionality by connecting it to a 12-volt battery and make sure that everything is in order with it.
We put a hose adapter on the compressor outlet fitting. We seal using FUM tape and firmly tighten the hex connector with keys.

We install the compressor on the receiver in the place where it will later be fixed. We cut off the hose at the outlet with scissors, leaving a small extension onto which we put a plastic rectangular fitting. It is necessary to give the desired direction to the hose that will come out of it and connect to the adapter on the receiver. Between the last two parts, a hexagonal connector is cut into the hose - it is also a check valve.

Installing the compressor on the receiver

We glue strips of double-sided tape onto the supporting surfaces of the compressor base. This will allow the nodes to be pre-fixed relative to each other, and will further contribute to the strength of the connection.
Then, using pliers and a binding wire, which we pass through the holes in the base, firmly screw the compressor to the receiver.

Manufacturing of the installation support part

To do this, you will need a piece of plastic pipe comparable in size to the outer diameter of the receiver. Using a hacksaw, cut three rings of equal width from the pipe.

We make a cross-section in two rings so that they can be put on the receiver. Cut the third ring into two equal parts. They, in fact, will be the “legs” of our installation.

In two rings, at points diametrically opposite to the cuts, we drill holes using a drill. We do the same in the half rings in their center.
We connect the rings with half rings in pairs using screws and a drill, screwing in the hardware from the side of the split full ring.
On the inside of the split rings, covering the heads of the screws, we glue a strip of double-sided tape to fix the rings on the receiver body from below.

We install the rings on the receiver, spreading them along the cut. To firmly fix the rings on the surface of the receiver, we also glue a strip under each end of the ring, starting from the cut and below.

Selecting pressure in the receiver and setting the relay

After connecting the hoses and turning on the compressor, we check the pressure build-up in the receiver using a pressure gauge and the operation of the installation using a pneumatic gun when the power is turned off. Relieve the pressure in the receiver using safety valve by pulling the ring on the rod.

We cut one strand of the wire from the compressor and connect its ends to the pressure switch using lugs and a crimper. We turn on the compressor again and make sure that the pressure in the receiver increases.