Vessels navy, according to the Register Rules, are not supplied with rigid adhesives. If necessary, in ship conditions, the easiest and fastest way to make a hard patch is in the form of a single- or multi-layer wooden board with soft cushions of tow or felt around the perimeter.

The location of the boards in the patch depends on the shape and size of the hole. It is advisable to make a plaster with an aspect ratio of less than two in two layers, with mutually perpendicular arrangement of boards in the layers.
To close narrow and long holes, it is more advisable to use one- or two-layer patches with parallel arrangement of boards in layers. The boards should be located across the holes.

Hard patches It is most advisable to use it to close holes located above the waterline or near it, as well as in cases where the holes can be exposed by heeling and trimming of the vessel. This creates the most convenient conditions for placing the patch and allows you to do without the help of divers.

For narrow holes, the plaster is fastened using ordinary straight bolts passed through the plaster boards and metal strips placed from the inside of the vessel across the hole through its edges.

For wide holes, the patch is secured to the hole using hook bolts, taken from the inside - by the edges of the hole and also passed through the plaster. Additionally, in the center of the patch (along the axis of the hole), several butts or eyes can be installed for attaching guy ropes with lanyards from inside the vessel. 2.3. Sealing holes with concreting

Concreting is the most reliable way to repair damage to a ship's hull. With the help of concreting, it is possible not only to eliminate the water resistance of the hull, but also to partially restore its local strength in the area of ​​damage.
Concreting can be done both in drained and in flooded compartments. The latter is a more difficult operation and less reliable. In this regard, underwater concreting is used only in cases where it is not possible to drain the compartment.

The components of a concrete solution are: binder (cement), aggregate (sand), fresh or sea ​​water. When concreting damage in the above-water part of the hull, in addition to sand, gravel, crushed stone, etc. can be added as an inert filler if available (Table 2.2).

Table 2.2

Composition of concrete for repairing damage in the ship's hull (volume proportions)

Type and composition of concrete		Inert aggregates (gravel, crushed stone, etc.)	Volume proportions	Notes
Greasy concrete
				For concreting in the underwater part of the hull. For concreting in underwater and above-water parts of the hull. For concreting in the above-water part of the hull
Skinny concrete
				For upper layers concreting.

To prepare concrete mortar Ordinary Portland cement, pozzolanic Portland cement, aluminous (bauxite) cement, Baidalin cement and VVTs cement grades 400, 500, 600 can be used * (The grade of cement shows the tensile strength of concrete prepared from a 1:3 solution 28 days after hardening.).

Portland cement is the most widely used. However, in some cases it is advisable to use other cements. Thus, when underwater concreting, it is better to use pozzolanic Portland cement, which is resistant in an aquatic environment.
To perform concreting at low temperatures Aluminous cement is the best, since, firstly, the hardening of concrete prepared from it is accompanied by an increase in temperature, and secondly, a rapid increase in strength occurs in concrete immediately after the solution sets.
Such quick-setting cement is VVC (waterproof, quick-setting), concrete from which acquires half its strength after about 6 hours. An even faster setting cement is Baydalin cement. However, concrete prepared from it begins to crack after 2-3 months. This type of cement is advantageous for short-term concreting*.

The physical and mechanical properties of some types of concrete prepared from grade 400 cement at a ratio of 1:3 with filler are given in Table. 2.3.

Table 2.3

Information about concrete

Name	Setting time, h		Mechanical strength (1x98066.6 Pa)
		no later than
1. Portland cement-400 2. Pozzolanic Portland cement-400 3. Aluminous cement-400 4. Baidalin cement

Note. In the numerator - upon hardening in air, in the denominator - in water.

Acceleration of the concrete hardening process can be achieved by adding special hardening accelerators, which can be used:

liquid glass, which is added to water during the preparation of concrete in an amount of 10-12% of its volume;

calcium chloride, which is introduced directly into the cement in an amount of 2 - 10% of its mass and mixed thoroughly with it;

technical soda in an amount of 5-6% by weight of cement, which dissolves in water during the preparation of concrete;

technical hydrochloric acid, added to water in an amount of 1.0 - 1.5% by weight of cement.

These hardening accelerators speed up the setting process of concrete by approximately two times, but at the same time reduce its strength. The best of these accelerators are technical soda and technical hydrochloric acid.

To seal minor damage, it is better to use fine sand alone as a filler. For large volumes of concreting, in addition to sand, gravel and crushed stone are used as fillers. In their absence, you can use finely broken bricks and, as a last resort, slag, but not more than 25-30% of the total volume of filler.

All fillers used for preparing concrete should, if possible, be washed in clean water and not have fatty impurities that impair the strength of concrete. Both fresh and sea water can be used to prepare concrete. The use of sea water reduces the strength of concrete by approximately 10%. The water must be clean, not contaminated with oil, oils and fats.

The preparation of the concrete solution is carried out on a clean deck or in a special box, as close as possible to the place of its use, and includes the following sequence of operations:

filler is poured in an even layer on the deck or along the entire platform of the box;

a uniform layer of cement is poured over the aggregate layer;

a second layer of aggregate is poured on top of the cement layer;

all three layers are thoroughly mixed and then raked to the sides, forming a thicket;

fresh or sea water is poured into the bowl in an amount equal to approximately half or slightly less than the volume of cement; In practice, water is added to the mixture of cement and sand in small portions as they are mixed;

the resulting concrete solution is mixed with shovels until a completely homogeneous mass is obtained and the solution takes the form of a thick dough.

In the place designated for concreting, formwork is installed, a so-called cement box with two open sides, one open side of which is adjacent to the perimeter of the damage site, and the second side is filled with concrete.
To ensure a tight fit, gaskets made of felt or resin tow can be used. At small sizes damage (cracks, etc.), the box can be directly filled with concrete.
If the hole is of significant size, it must first be covered with reinforcement made of steel tubes or rods, arranged in the form of a grid with cells from 10 to 25 cm and tied at crosshairs with wire. The reinforcement is attached to the body, and after that the box is filled with concrete (Fig. 2.12).

For tight concrete connection with the body, it is necessary that at the place of concreting it be thoroughly cleaned of rust and dirt and washed with soap and caustic soda. Concrete must be supplied continuously to the laying site so that each subsequent layer of mortar is applied to a layer that has not yet hardened. If for some reason there is a break in the supply of concrete and the solution in the cement box hardens, then before further supply fresh concrete on top of the hardened layer it is necessary to put metal mesh or steel sheet or stripes.

Rice. 2.12. Schematic diagram concreting the hole:

1 - concrete; 2 - cement box made of sandbags; 3 - sand; 4 - sandbags, 5 - reinforcement steel mesh; 6 – grid

To protect fresh concrete to prevent erosion by water that can seep through the hole, special outlet pipes are installed in the cement box. The cross-section of the outlet pipe must ensure the flow of filtration water without creating pressure.
The method of installing the tube depends on the nature and location of the hole (Fig. 2.13). However, in all cases it must come from the bottom point of the hole, and its outer end (the surface of the drained water) must be below the concrete level.

After the concrete has hardened the tube is plugged. Fastening a wooden shield or a rigid wooden plaster with soft sides to the hole is carried out using hook bolts, for which special holes are drilled in the plaster (shield).

Rice. 2.13. Placement of the cement box on board the vessel:

1 - soft patch; 2 - internal formwork; 3 - concrete; 4 - external formwork; 5 - spacers; b - spacers of the internal formwork; 7 - shield; 8 - outlet tube; 9 - supports; 10 - thrust bars

Plasters used as emergency equipment are soft, wooden, metal and pneumatic.

Soft patches are applied to temporarily seal the hole in order to drain the flooded compartment and then reliably restore the waterproofness of the hull. The most durable soft plaster is the chainmail plaster. It is elastic, fits well to the figured surface of the ship's hull and at the same time has a certain rigidity, which is created by chain mail in the form of intertwined rings made of flexible galvanized steel cable with a diameter of 9 mm.

The lightweight plaster, measuring 3x3 m, consists of two layers of canvas with a felt pad between them. To give rigidity to the plaster, 25 mm steel pipes or a steel cable with a diameter of 20 mm are attached on its outer side parallel to the upper edge at half-meter intervals.

The stuffed plaster (2x2 m) is made of two-layer canvas and a stuffed mat stitched on the inside with a dense, thick pile on the outside.

The mattress patch can be made by the crew on board. For this purpose a canvas bag required sizes stuffed with resinous tow to a thickness of about 200 mm. From the outside, narrow boards 50–75 mm thick (with gaps between them) are attached to the mattress thus obtained, and a steel cable is nailed to them with construction staples for winding.

A wooden rigid plaster is usually made on site on the ship after a hole has been received in the hull. It is most appropriate to use it to close holes located near or above the waterline, as well as in cases where the hole can be exposed by heeling or trimming the vessel.

Metal patches used to seal small holes are shown in Fig. 6

Pneumatic plasters (tubular, spherical, soft box-shaped, semi-rigid and rigid) are designed for sealing small holes from the outside at a depth of up to 10 m.

3.1. Installation of a metal patch with a clamping bolt pb1.

Holes with a diameter of 35 – 100 mm with a height of torn edges up to 15 mm can be repaired metal patch with a clamping bolt PB-1. The patch can be installed by one person and does not require additional fastening after installation. On the ship, the PB-1 patch (Fig. 5) is stored in constant readiness for use, assembled, the nut with handles should be in the upper threaded part of the clamping bolt.

To install a patch on a hole you need:

install the rotary bracket, overcoming the force of the spiral spring, parallel to the axis of the clamping bolt;

Insert a clamping bolt with a rotating bracket into the hole so that, when it goes beyond the casing, it rotates under the action of a spring perpendicular to the axis of the clamping bolt;

holding the patch by the bolt, turning the nut by the handles, press it to the casing rubber seal with a pressure disk until the water leak from the hole is eliminated.

The non-working surfaces of the patch are painted with red lead, the working surfaces (pressure bolt, spring, nut thread) are lubricated with grease, the rubber seal is covered with chalk.

Ship's salvage property. To eliminate water leakage of the hull and various damages, ships are provided with emergency equipment and materials.

The name and minimum quantity of salvage property are established by the standards of the Register of the Russian Federation, depending on the length and purpose of the vessel. The emergency supply includes: patches with rigging and equipment, plumbing and rigging tools, clamps, bolts, stops, staples, nuts, nails, canvas, felt, tow, cement, sand, wooden beams, wedges, plugs, etc. On passenger ships and special purpose ships with a length of 70 m or more, as well as on ships made of fiberglass, the Rules of the Register of the Russian Federation provide for additional supplies. In addition, all modern large-capacity ships usually have light diving equipment and electric welding equipment.

Emergency supplies, other than diving equipment and bandages, must be painted blue: wooden products- fully; beams - from the ends and at the ends (at a length of 100-150 mm); metal objects- on non-working surfaces: covers of plasters, mats, coils of wire - in transverse stripes.

Containers for storing emergency supplies must also be painted blue (either completely or in a stripe) and clearly labeled with the name of the material, its weight and permissible shelf life.

All specified supplies must be stored at emergency posts: in special rooms or in boxes. There must be at least two such posts on the ship, and one of them must be in the engine room (on ships with a length of 31 m or less, storage of emergency supplies is allowed only at one emergency post. Emergency posts must have clear inscriptions “Emergency post.” In addition In addition, signs for the location of emergency posts must be provided in the passages and on the decks.

Emergency equipment that has special markings is allowed to be used only for its intended purpose: when fighting water, as well as during drills and exercises. Any emergency equipment that has been used up or has become out of order must be written off according to the act and replenished to normal as soon as possible.

At least once a month, commanders of emergency parties (groups) with the participation of the boatswain must check the availability and serviceability of emergency equipment. The results of the inspection are reported to the chief mate. A similar check of emergency property (simultaneously with a check of fire-fighting equipment and life-saving equipment) is carried out by the senior assistant once every 3 months. Which he reports to the captain and takes measures to eliminate deficiencies. All this is recorded in the ship's log.

Soft patches are the main means of temporarily sealing holes; they can take the form of the hull contours anywhere on the ship. On sea vessels, four types of soft plasters are used: chainmail, lightweight, stuffed and training.

Plasters are made from waterproof canvas or other equivalent fabric; along the edge they are sheathed with lyktros (vegetable or synthetic) with four thimbles at the corners.

The sheets and guys of the chain mail patches are made from flexible steel cables, the control sheets are made from vegetable cables, and the undercut ends for all the patches are made from flexible steel cables or chains of the appropriate caliber.

The sheets and keel ends must be long enough to cover half of the ship's hull amidships and fasten on the upper deck, provided they are spaced from the vertical at an angle of 45

The control pin, designed to facilitate the installation of the patch on the hole, has, like a lotline, a breakdown every 0.5 m, counting from the center of the patch. The length of the control pin should be approximately equal to the length of the sheet.

Guys provided for chain mail and lightweight plasters serve as auxiliary equipment that facilitates a tighter fit of the patch to the hole. The length of each guy must be at least half the length of the vessel. The most durable of all soft patches is chain mail.

Plasters are applied to the hole as follows. First, using the numbering of the frames, mark the boundaries of the hole with chalk on the deck. Then the patch with the equipment is brought to the place of work. At the same time, they begin to wind the under-keel ends. At this point, the ship should not be moving. Depending on the location of the hole along the length of the vessel, the keel ends are brought in from the bow or stern and placed on both sides of the hole. If the under-keel ends are brought in from the stern, you should use weights attached to them, which will allow you to pass the under-keel end cleanly without touching the propellers and rudder.

Using staples, the heel ends are attached to the lower corners of the patch, and the sheets and control rod are attached to its upper luff. Then, on the opposite side, they begin to select the keel ends with hoists or winches, while simultaneously moving the sheets until the control rod shows that the patch has been lowered to the specified depth.

The sheets and keel ends, stretched at the required angle and selected tightly, are attached to bollards or cleats. The adherence of the patch to the damaged area is considered satisfactory if the ship's drainage systems are able to remove water from the flooded compartment.

A soft plaster allows you to quickly quickly seal cracks and small holes on ships, but it has a number of disadvantages:

Does not have the required strength;

Does not allow it to be started without the participation of a diver in cases where the hole is located near the zygomatic keel or has torn, bent outward edges;

Can be torn out of place when the ship moves.

If the hole is large (more than 0.5 m2), as the damaged compartment is drained under seawater pressure, the patch will be pulled into the hole. In this case, before installing the patch, you have to resort to inserting several steel under-the-keel ends running along the hull through the hole. These ends, called false frames, are tightened on the deck with the help of turnbuckles; they play the role of a frame that prevents the patch from being pulled into the body.

Maneuvering a damaged ship

If the ship receives any damage on the high seas, an important condition preventing his death is skillful maneuvering. As a result of damage, the ship may receive a large list, surface holes near the waterline, and as a result, as a rule, its stability decreases. Therefore, it is necessary to avoid, especially at high speed, sharp shifts of the steering wheel, which cause additional heeling moments.

If the bow is damaged, causing the hull to leak, the forward movement of the vessel will increase the flow of water, and therefore create additional pressure on the aft bulkhead of the damaged compartment. In this situation, going forward before filling the hole is risky, especially if the hole is significant. If it is impossible to repair the hole, you should significantly reduce speed or even go in reverse (for example, on multi-rotor ships).

In the event of icing of a damaged ship, its stability and maneuverability are usually further deteriorated, so the crew must take measures to combat ice.

If the damaged ship has a significant list that cannot be reduced, then the captain is obliged to maneuver so that, in order to avoid capsizing, the elevated side of the ship is not to windward, especially when the wind reaches gale force or is squally. In stormy weather, changing the speed and course relative to the wave can significantly reduce the amplitude of rolling, avoid resonance, as well as possible loss of stability in following waves, most likely at wavelengths close to the length of the vessel.

If the damage sustained by the ship during voyage is so great that ship's means the crew cannot cope with the incoming water, the smartest thing to do is to ground the ship. If possible, you should choose a shore that has a gentle slope, sandy or other similar soil without stones. It is also desirable that there are no strong currents in the landing area. In general, it is better to run aground anywhere (if this does not threaten the obvious loss of the ship) than to attempt to reach a suitable shore and expose the ship to the risk of sinking at great depths.

When making a decision to ground a damaged ship, one must take into account the risk of reduced stability if the ship touches the ground with a small area of ​​the bottom, especially on hard ground in an area where the depths increase sharply from the shore. The support reaction that appears at this moment, applied to the bottom of the vessel at the point of contact with the ground, is the reason for the decrease in stability. A dangerous roll may not occur if the slope of the ground is close to the angle of roll or trim of the ship, since the ship will land on the ground immediately with a significant part of the bottom, as well as when landing on soft ground: in this case, the tip of the ship does not rest on the ground, but crashes into him.

To prevent the ship from receiving further damage from impacts on the ground in stormy weather, it must be secured aground, for example, by bringing in anchors or additional flooding of compartments.

When all the damage has been repaired, they begin to pump out water from the flooded compartments. First of all, water must be completely removed from the compartments that have the greatest width. If this recommendation is neglected, as the vessel ascends, its stability may again deteriorate due to the presence of free surfaces.

Grounding is carried out, as a rule, by the bow, but in soft ground it is possible to land by the stern with the release of both anchors at an angle to the coastline, possibly closer to straight. Despite the risk of damage to the rudder complex, this method is not without advantages: the bow of the ship, which is the most durable part of the hull, will absorb the shocks of the waves, and the minimum area will be exposed to the shocks; anchors can be used to secure a vessel aground, avoiding the very labor-intensive operation of delivering them. In addition, they can be used to facilitate the subsequent refloating of the vessel.

Self-test questions:

1. What applies to emergency equipment, materials and tools?

2. Marking of emergency equipment.

3. Plasters.

4. Sheets and guys.

Currently, more and more widespread small vessels with fiberglass hulls are received, so it is advisable to summarize some experience in repairing such vessels by amateurs.

During the operation of ships, damage to the hulls from invisible underwater obstacles (sinks, stones, piles, etc.) poses a great danger. If the plastic housing hits an obstacle, the following main types of damage are possible:

1) holes in the casing;
2) separation of the set from the skin;
3) deep (more than half the thickness of the skin) scratches.

Let's look at the repair of these three main types of damage to the plastic case separately.

Holes in the casing

Holes in the casing usually occur when the hull hits a fairly sharp obstacle located near the surface of the water at high speed. The damaged vessel must be lifted out of the water and placed on the shore (on keel blocks, etc.) so that it is convenient to work in the area of ​​the hole. Then a thorough inspection of the damage is carried out and the boundaries of the hole are established (holes can be drilled at its ends).

The entire damaged section of the skin is cut out from the body along with the kit. The cut should be rectangular shape, but with the obligatory rounding of corners (Fig. 1). The set that falls into the damaged area must be cut off at a distance of 100-150 mm outward from the contour of the cutout in the casing, cut down and also removed. You can cut fiberglass of small thicknesses (2-5 mm) manually - with a hacksaw with hacksaw blade made of R-9 steel.

To be able to seal the cutout, it is necessary to make a bevel of the edges with a width of at least 10-12 times the thickness of the skin along the entire perimeter of the cutout (Fig. 2). It is best to use a pneumatic machine with an elastic lacing circle for this purpose (Fig. 3), but with a certain skill, the bevel of the edges can be done with a sharp knife and hammer (Fig. 4) or even a file.

The surface of the edges on both sides of the cutout must be dried (for example, with a 300-500 W lamp with a tinplate reflector or an electroreflective oven of the Neva type) and before molding the hole, it must be degreased with acetone or gasoline for 20 minutes. to evaporate the degreaser. The hole must be sealed with plywood, which should follow the contour of the body at the cutout (Fig. 5). For this purpose, you can use plywood 3-4 mm thick, bending it along special patterns taken locally from the other side (Fig. 6), and securing it to the same patterns.

Applied to plywood separation layer, after drying, the hole is molded from the inside with fiberglass impregnated with a binder (inner lining of the hole). The area of ​​each layer of fabric gradually increases, and the bevel of the edges is completely filled. It is necessary to lay layers of fiberglass until the surface of the inner lining and skin is leveled (Fig. 7).

After the inner trim has polymerized, the plywood seal is removed, and the surface of the trim that was in contact with the plywood is cleaned to remove the separating layer and also degreased. Then the outer lining of the hole is molded, but not along the plywood seal, but directly along the inner lining. The cross-section of the sealed hole is shown in Fig. 8.

To polymerize the overlays, heating is necessary with a lamp with a reflector or an electroreflective oven. When working in rainy weather, it is necessary to make an awning over the repair site to prevent water from entering directly into the molding area.

Before installing a new set in place of the removed one, thoroughly clean and degrease inner surface sheathing.

Then carefully adjusted pieces of the new decorative material (“strength filler”, “core”), most often wooden, are glued in (using BF glue or K-153 compound). The decorator is joined at the end or with a miter bevel. After this, the new sections of the decorator are molded to the skin and the ends of the old set with layers of fiberglass impregnated with a binder. The molding of the joints of the set should overlap the ends of the old set by 120-150 mm (Fig. 9).

Both sides of the hole seal are cleaned for painting and painted.

Separating the set from the casing

The detachment of the set from the casing occurs when the hull hits a large underwater obstacle (rock, pile, etc.). Sometimes tearing off of the molded set (especially in the bow) occurs during a long course of the vessel in planing mode in waves, when strong impacts of the hull on the water are observed.

The part of the kit that has fallen away from the casing must be cut out and removed, and the casing must be thoroughly cleaned and degreased before installing a new kit. The installation and design of the new decorator is carried out in the same way as when installing a kit when sealing a hole. After polymerization of the moldings, they must be cleaned and painted.

Repairing deep scratches

Deep scratches occur when the body touches sharp objects (for example, sharp stones).

It is necessary to repair deep scratches immediately upon their discovery, since in places of such damage the strength of the skin is significantly reduced. Deep scratches in the plastic casing are the spots from which delamination of the casing begins.

Deep scratches are repaired as follows. The sheathing around the scratch is cleaned in the manner described above in such a way that an oval-shaped depression is obtained for the entire depth of the scratch, with a bevel along the perimeter (Fig. 10). This recess is then molded in the usual way with layers of glass cloth impregnated with resin until it is level with the surface of the skin (Fig. 11). After cleaning, the molded surface must be painted over.

The main types of damage described above most often occur when the body hits an obstacle. But damage to the casing can also be caused by other reasons. For example, when long-term operation of a vessel in shallow water or frequent approaches to the shore in shallow places, frequent contact with the bottom (especially when it is rocky or sandy) causes abrasion of the bottom lining of the hull, primarily in the bow. Therefore, it is recommended to reinforce the skin in this area with additional layers of fiberglass even during the construction of the hull (especially in the area of ​​the keel in the bow). During long-term use, the worn surface must be renewed. To do this, it is necessary to dry, clean and degrease the worn area of ​​the casing, and then mold it onto it. required quantity layers of fiberglass.

Vibration during operation of an outboard motor (especially two motors) can damage the transom. There were cases when, when operating a boat with two Moskva outboard motors, cracks appeared in the corners of the under-engine cutout in the transom, which could lead to complete destruction of the transom (Fig. 12).

Repair of this unit must be carried out as follows. The ends of the cracks should be drilled to prevent further spread. Then the area of ​​the cracks must be cleaned on both sides and a rounded wooden booklet must be inserted into each corner of the cutout. The thickness of the bracket should be equal to the thickness of the transom (Fig. 13).

The bracket is glued to the transom with epoxy compound or BF glue. Then chopped fiberglass cloth on resin is hammered into the crack, and the entire area of ​​the crack, together with the knuckle, is molded with fiberglass cloth impregnated with resin (Fig. 14). The thickness of the molding should be equal to half the thickness of the transom. The transom repaired in this way at further exploitation no longer shows any signs of new destruction.

During the operation of the vessel, damage such as eyelashes, cleats, and bollards being torn out of the deck is also possible. In this case, it is necessary to cut out the place where the torn part is attached to the deck, then round the corners of the cutout and make a bevel of the edge (Fig. 15). Then plywood is installed underneath and the cutout is molded (Fig. 16), as discussed above.

Since the deck at the site where the hole is sealed will be somewhat weakened compared to the whole area, it is advisable to place the eye or bollard in a different place. If this is not possible and the part has to be put in its original place, then a reinforcing plate with a thickness equal to half the thickness of the deck must be placed to seal the hole in the deck (Fig. 17).

On small vessels with stationary power plants When the bottom hits, sometimes the seawater molding of the seawater seam comes off, and therefore water begins to flow into the engine compartment. To temporarily stop a leak, you can use raw rubber and a metal yoke 50-60 mm wide. The rubber should be laid around the kingston, overlapping the vertical flange of the molding square by 20-30 mm, and compressed with a yoke (Fig. 18). The flow of water into the boat will either sharply decrease or stop.

Upon returning the vessel to its mooring site, it is necessary to lift it onto the wall or hang the stern over the boom or over a flat bank (in case of minor damage) and repair the damaged molding. Repairs must be made as follows. Completely cut off the inner and outer Kingston molding angles. Thoroughly clean the surface of the kingston, as well as the surface of the bottom (inside and outside) in the area of ​​damage. Kingston is installed in place and secured. First, the kingstone is molded from the inside. The first layer of molding square, impregnated with epoxy compound, is placed on the kingston and bottom and carefully smoothed so that there are no air bubbles underneath. Then the remaining layers of the molding square are laid, impregnated with ordinary resin.

After polymerization of the internal molding square, it is necessary to check it for tightness. The internal molding square is coated soap solution, and from the outside, compressed air is supplied from a hose at a pressure of 3-3.5 kg/cm 2 (if there is no compressed air line or compressor, you can use a car cylinder).

If there is no air leak, an external molding square is formed, after polymerization of which the repair can be considered complete. If air passages are found along the edges of the molding square, these places must be repaired again.

Only the main types of damage to fiberglass hulls are considered. Repair of any other damage is similar to the cases listed above.

When repairing a ship's hull made of fiberglass, you can use any reinforcing materials - fiberglass, glass mat, glass matting, etc., as well as resins of any brand. The temperature conditions for the polymerization of fiberglass (i.e., a temperature not lower than 18-20 ° C) can be created either by 300 or 500 W lighting lamps with tinplate reflectors, or by reflective furnaces of the “Neva” type.

When going on a long journey on a ship with a fiberglass hull, you need to take with you a small amount of resin (1-1.5 kg) with hardening additives and fiberglass. Resin and fabric are needed to repair hull damage that can occur when sailing through various water systems. If it is not possible to take resins and fiberglass with you, you must have an epoxy compound, which can also be used to repair minor damage to the body.

Elimination of water leakage of the ship hull

The main reason for the violation of the waterproofness of the hull is the receipt of various accidental damage to the outer plating from the ship's grounding, ship collisions, pile-ups on the pier, when sailing in ice, etc.

If measures are not taken immediately to eliminate water leakage, this may lead to damage to the cargo and sometimes to the loss of the vessel.

Slight water leakage of rivet seams can be eliminated by placing wooden wedges (Fig. 154). To do this, the wedges are wrapped in red lead-impregnated tow or canvas and hammered into the gap with blows of a sledgehammer. In the same way, you can seal a crack in the sheathing. If the crack is no more than 2-3 cm wide, then it can be caulked with tow and rags. The tarred tow is impregnated with red lead or technical lard, a twist is made from it with a diameter slightly larger than the width of the crack, and with the help of caulk and a fly, it is hammered into the crack. The smallest cracks can be caulked with lead, for which a strip of sheet lead is driven into the crack using a hammer or a blunt chisel.

A small hole from a fallen rivet can most reliably be sealed with a bolt with a swivel head (Fig. 155). The bolt is inserted into the hole with inside head forward, having first turned it along the bolt. Once out of the hole, the head rotates under gravity to hold the bolt in the hole. By screwing the nut onto the bolt, the rubber gasket is pressed against the casing, which ensures the tightness of the seal. If there are no such bolts, then the hole from the fallen rivet can be plugged with a wooden plug. Small holes with a diameter of 150 mm are also sealed with plugs, which are pre-wrapped with tow or canvas soaked in red lead. Traffic jams large diameter(chops) are used to seal damaged windows.

Fig. 154 Sealing a crack with wedges 1-wedges, 2-plug

Fig. 155 Sealing holes with a bolt 1- bolt, 2- nut, 3- washer, 4- rubber gasket, 5- swivel head, 6- casing

Medium-sized holes can be sealed with a tow cushion (Fig. 156). The pillow is placed on the damaged area from the inside with wooden supports and wedges are pressed tightly against the skin. You can use it instead of a pillow wooden shields(Fig. 157), having around the perimeter soft pillow. The shield is pressed to the body with wooden supports and wedges or a sliding stop. But it is more convenient for this purpose to use special clamps, hook bolts or bolts with a folding bracket.

Large holes usually cannot be repaired by installing a shield from inside the vessel, since the compartment quickly fills with water. In this case, a patch is placed to stop the flow of water. First you need to accurately determine the location of the hole." The leak area can be recognized relatively simply by measuring water in bilges and tanks, by the noise of air that comes out through the air pipes when the compartment is quickly filled with water, or by the characteristic murmur of water. It is more difficult to determine the location of the hole, since To do this, it is necessary to carefully inspect the leak area, and this is not always possible, for example, in a fully loaded hatch. Therefore, in many cases, the exact location of the hole can only be determined with the help of a diver.

To make it possible to more accurately indicate the location of a leak or hole, the frames on the ship are numbered. Frame numbers are inscribed in blue paint on both sides of the ship on the inside of the bulwarks and inside the hull on the frames themselves or on the side plating.

Fig. 156 Sealing a crack with a pillow with a tow 1-skin, 2-pillow, 3-board, 4-timber, 5-wedges, 6-bulkhead 7-bulkhead post

Having established the location of the hole, they begin to apply the plaster (Fig. 158). First of all, the heel ends are wound in. To do this, they are released into the water from the bow of the vessel with the middle part so that a loop is formed, slightly exceeding the draft of the vessel, and then brought along the sides to the hole site. If the ship is anchored, then the keel ends are brought in in exactly the same way, but only from the stern of the ship. In this case, you need to make sure that they do not get caught on the propeller or the steering wheel.

Simultaneously with winding the under-keel ends, a patch is brought to the hole and opened on the deck so that it is convenient to take the lower luff overboard. The under-keel ends brought into place are secured with staples to the thimbles of the lower corners of the patch, and the sheets are also attached to the upper thimbles with the help of staples. Then the under-keel ends begin to be gradually removed from the opposite side with hoists or winches. By pulling the sheets, the patch is lowered overboard until it closes the hole. The height position of the patch is checked using a control pin, which is attached to the krengel on the upper luff of the patch. Plasters large sizes have guy ropes, the second ones are fixed on the side luffs. This is done so that when aiming at a hole, the patch can be moved not only in height, but also along the length of the vessel.

Fig. 157 Sealing a hole with a shield a - fastening the shield with a clamp, b - fastening the shield with hook bolts, / - shield 2-clamp, 3-pressing bolt, 4-frame, 5-grab, 6-nut, 7-hook bolts, S-plating

Fig. 158 Placing the patch 1, 9 - successive positions of the keel end during winding, 2 - guys 3 - hoists, 4 - sheets 5 - on the winch, 6 - keel ends, 7 - patch, 8 - control pin

Fig. 159 Concreting a hole / - outer skin 2 - frame, 3 - spacer beam 4 - reinforcement, 5 - shield, 6 - cushion 7 - concrete, 8 -<цементный ящик 9- прижимной брус 10- брусья, поддерживающие ящик

Fig. 160 Reinforcement a - bulkhead, b - hatch, 1 - bulkhead, 2 - board, 3 - construction bracket, 4 - beam, 5 - beam, 6 - deck, 7 - beam, 8 - wedges, 9 - board, 10 - foundation, 11-hatch, 12-sliding stop

When the patch is placed in place of the hole, the sheets are secured, and the keel ends are tightened tightly. After this, they begin to drain the flooded room. When pumping out water, due to the difference in levels overboard and in the room, pressure is created on the patch, and it is pressed tightly against the skin

Applying a plaster does not ensure reliable sealing of the hole, but only allows you to drain the flooded compartment. Therefore, immediately after pumping water out of the room, it is necessary to begin more reliable sealing of the hole. To do this, a wooden shield is placed on the inside of the vessel on the damaged area. This shield is knocked down from strong boards and from one On the sides along the edges of the shield, canvas pillows with tow are nailed. The shield placed over the hole is pressed tightly against the body using wooden supports and wedges

The considered methods of sealing holes, as a rule, do not completely eliminate water leakage. A minor leak that remains after applying a shield or cushion can be completely stopped by concreting the damage site

Concreting (Fig. 159) is carried out with a solution of cement, sand and gravel in a ratio of 1 2-1 or only cement and sand 1:2 To accelerate the hardening of concrete, the addition of liquid glass or calcium chloride is useful. For the solution, you can use both fresh and sea water. Used for on sea vessels, Portland cement and alumina cement of grades 400, 500 and 600. The solution is prepared in a special box (tvoril) or on a free area of ​​the deck

To carry out concreting, wooden formwork is arranged around the damaged area - a cement box, which is a form for pouring concrete. The formwork is adjusted along the contours of the body and firmly secured in any possible way: by placing stops, wedging, bolts, staples, etc.

To ensure a tighter fit of the formwork to the sheathing, felt or tow pads are placed between them.

After manufacturing, the cement box is filled with concrete. In order for the concrete to be tightly connected to the body, all metal surfaces must be thoroughly cleaned of rust and dirt and washed with caustic soda. When filling a cement box, water seeping through a hole can wash away the concrete. To prevent this from happening, special drain pipes are installed in the box, which are plugged with plugs after the concrete has hardened.

Before concreting, large holes must be covered with reinforcement made of steel rods, pipes and strips, arranged in the form of a grid with cells of 10-20 cm. Longitudinal and transverse reinforcement must be tied in knots with wire and attached to the body set with staples

The ship's unsinkability is ensured by watertight bulkheads that divide the hull into separate compartments and prevent the spread of water. But in an accident, bulkheads and watertight closures can be damaged. Therefore, when receiving holes, waterproof structures must be reinforced

Reinforcement of bulkheads and watertight closures is carried out in case of complete flooding of the adjacent compartment, as well as in case of significant deformation, the presence of cracks and the appearance of water leakage.

To reinforce the bulkheads (Fig. 160, a), wooden beams and sliding metal stops are used. One end of the beam rests against the bulkhead, and the other against a fixed, strong support, which can be used as foundations, a hatch coaming, elements of a ship's set, etc.

The beams or stops should be placed as perpendicular to the bulkhead as possible, since in this case they will be able to withstand the greatest loads. Where it is impossible to install the beams perpendicular to the bulkhead, reinforcement is used<треугольником>. To distribute the load over a large area, a beam or board is placed at the end of the support. The weakness of the beams is strengthened using wedges.

When reinforcing bulkheads or decks, it is also necessary to reinforce watertight closures (doors, hatches, necks). In this case, care should be taken to ensure that the reinforcing force is distributed along the entire perimeter of the closure. Therefore, it is necessary to place a thick board or timber under the stop (Fig. 160, b).