Detailed instructions on how to make a concrete pool with your own hands will help you plan future work and estimate construction costs. An important point will be to provide an effective water supply and filtration system. Do not forget about installing heating systems and electrical supply.

Recently, it has become easier to get a swimming pool.

The construction method is quite simple; there is always the opportunity to choose an option that suits any person.

So how to make a concrete pool?

DIY design selection

At the very beginning of construction, you need to decide on the shape, choose the location and type of pool.

An option for constructing a large swimming pool, made with a cast concrete bowl and an installed water filtration and heating system. This technology, despite its high cost, is affordable; it can be used for a small garden pond or for children.

When choosing pool shapes, we are guided by the following factors:

It is necessary to determine the location for the pool. It is important to remember that you must retreat at least 1 m from the building, and at least 5 m from the tree.

• aesthetic appearance;
• functionality;
• features of landscape design;
• location of the house;
• difficulty of implementation.

The more complex the shape of the pool, the more difficult the process of pouring a concrete bath will be. As for the place where the reservoir will be located, it is necessary to have a free area that will significantly exceed the future size of the pool, because underground communications will require the arrangement of a technical room where the hydraulic installation will be located, which will be responsible for the uninterrupted operation of the pool.

We must not forget that in winter, swimming pools need to be drained or heated. Otherwise, the water may freeze, causing the concrete bath to burst. The water drain must have a drainage hole located below the bottom of the pool. This solution will be more optimal than a sewer system.

Continuous is used to avoid changing the water. Before building a concrete pool, it is necessary to weigh the costs of providing heating and replacing water, which will be the volume of water in the pool plus 20% for water consumption during evaporation. Heating a pool requires at least 2000 W per day. The calculation is given for a pool 3x6 m and 3 m deep with a water requirement of 55 tons.

The thickness of the walls depends on the area of ​​the pool.

Construction should begin with digging a pit. The location must be provided with access for heavy equipment. If the pit is small, then it can be dug by hand. If it is not possible to create an entrance for equipment, it is necessary to limit the size of the pool.

It is not recommended to install a concrete pool near trees, as it will quickly become clogged and require a canopy. You also need to take into account that the concrete bath should be located above the level of groundwater flow: they can lead to damage to the concrete bowl. The location of the pool in an open space where the shadow does not fall is more suitable for countries with a cool climate. This placement makes it possible to achieve better water heating without additional energy costs and extend the swimming season.

Determine the shape of the concrete pool based on the size of the bowl and the technical room, not forgetting about the availability of free space on the site. After calculating the technical size of the pool, you can proceed to the design features of the landscape and aesthetic preferences.

In addition to tools and materials, it is necessary to purchase equipment for water purification and water heating in advance.

Pools look great outdoors at a certain distance from trees. If the house is located on a hill, it would be optimal to place the pool towards the natural panorama, this will give an additional effect.

When choosing a shape, the types of pool are taken into account.

An overflow pool with the help of a special design makes it possible to fill the pool with water to the brim. An overflow gutter is installed along the entire perimeter of the pool, where water is collected, which overflows over the edges, entering the storage unit, then into the filtration and heating system, and then through the holes in the bottom of the concrete bowl back into the pool. Thanks to this, natural circulation of water is formed. This type is more expensive than skimmers. The overflow system provides better water circulation and, accordingly, better water purification, which is extremely necessary for large water complexes.

Skimmer pools are widely used for private buildings. In these types, the water level should be 15-20 cm below the edges of the pool. Water is taken into the filtration system through holes - skimmers, located on the side walls closer to the surface, since this is the dirtiest part of the water. The filtered water passes through holes that are located opposite the skimmer holes.

Return to contents

Do-it-yourself concrete bowl construction technology

The depth of the pool is determined based on the purpose of its use: for swimming, a depth of up to 1.5 m is sufficient; if you want to dive from a personal tower, then the depth should be increased to 2.5 m.

Construction begins with site breakdown and project modeling. The pool design must include its design and the design of technical rooms and tanks where the necessary devices are installed. During the construction process, it is not allowed to touch the foundations of existing buildings.

All capital structures on a land plot require prior approval from the competent authorities. You can carry out the procedure for legalizing the structure, but you need to assess your capabilities and costs in the first and second options.

To carry out construction, you need to draw up or have available the following documents:

• ownership of the land under development;
• design of a swimming pool and additional premises;
• master plan for site development;
• permission from the competent authorities for construction (in some cases, the consent of neighbors may be required).

A limitation may be the presence of utilities in the ground. It follows from this that the optimal depth of the pool will be 1.5 m. It ensures safe swimming. If there are diving towers, the depth of the pool increases to 2.30 m.

The pool is marked using guide strings. The size of the pit must be 0.5 m larger on both sides. The thickness of the concrete walls increases as the size of the pool increases. For a structure with a size of 6x3 m, the walls are made 0.4 m thick, for smaller pools - 0.3 m.

Return to contents

Preparatory stage

For a skimmer type measuring 3x6 m without arranging a technical room, a pit of 4x7 m with a depth of 2.7 m is required. It is necessary to provide technical rooms next to the pool.

It must be taken into account that the height of the technical premises must be commensurate with the height of the person, while the floors of the boiler room must be located below the level of the pool. The presence of premises around the perimeter will protect the structure from the effects of expanding soils in winter. The device is suitable exclusively for large swimming pools.

Return to contents

Do-it-yourself pit drainage device

To prevent the concrete bath from sagging, reinforced concrete piles are laid on the sand.

When digging a pit, it is necessary to take into account that the walls of the pit are tilted 4-6 degrees in the other direction with respect to the pool. This method allows you to avoid soil shedding during work. The bottom is sloping towards the drainage hole.

It would be a good idea to consider auxiliary drainage of the pit during the construction period. To fulfill this condition, a small depression is dug out in the middle and filled with crushed stone. At the next stage, a sand cushion 0.2-0.3 m thick is placed at the bottom of the pit, which is carefully compacted. Gravel with a ball thickness of 6 to 10 cm is poured on top of the sand.

To prevent uneven subsidence of the concrete bath in the event of deformation of the cushion, reinforced concrete piles are laid on the sand.

Build your own pool and enjoy it all summer long - these are the thoughts that are driving you now. In addition, your kids will also be crazy about the joy that a small pond with cool water will give them on a hot day. And today we will look at how to build a concrete pool with your own hands, what are its advantages and disadvantages and for whom it would be an ideal option.

What you need to know first

Before building anything, you need to understand the design features, its advantages and disadvantages, and similar options. Perhaps concrete is far from the most ideal option for you, and installing, for example, a frame pool would be much more rational.

Let's first look at the positive aspects of this material for the construction of artificial reservoirs.

• The most rigid pool structure is made from concrete;
• Freedom of choice. You can build a bowl of any size, depth and shape;
• Possibility of installing any additional equipment. You can install a hydromassage, and so on;
• Concrete is the most durable material of all similar ones for the construction of tanks;
• Large selection of finishing and decoration options;
• In general, a concrete pool looks more prestigious than all others.

Now about the disadvantages of this material.

• Extended construction periods. If you build a tank in the spring, then you will only be able to enjoy cool water in it in the middle of summer;
• High price. How much exactly? We will talk about this in more detail below;
• Not the most convenient option to maintain.
• To install it yourself, you need to have construction skills and experience working with tools.

As we see, even concrete bowls are not without drawbacks, in principle, like all other options. This option is suitable for those who are not going to save on the construction of an artificial reservoir and want to install the maximum number of additional devices to increase comfort and decoration.

So, if you have decided that a concrete pool is what you need, then read on.

Construction of a concrete pool

A pool with a concrete bowl does not differ much in design from other types. It has the same systems that do the necessary work to maintain the water in the required condition.

Concrete pool systems:

• Pump;
• Thermostatic devices;
• Filters of various types.

It is also possible to install additional devices:

• Automatic chemical dispensers;
• Contour ;
• Hydromassage, counter current, waterfalls, fountains;
• Slides, jumps and other attractions.

Holes for nozzles for collecting and returning water to the bowl are installed immediately when pouring concrete. Next, a circuit consisting of a pump, filter and heater is connected to them. The procedure for connecting this equipment depends on your conditions and device models. After installing the circular chain, consider that the pool is ready for use.

You can install additional equipment after completing all construction work, but it is still better to think through everything in advance and do it in one go.

Now let's look at each stage in great detail.

Let's start construction

We have divided the process of building a concrete pool with your own hands into several steps. The result is a detailed guide that will help you do everything yourself.

Construction planning

Any big undertaking must begin with drawing up a plan. You need to draw a bowl on paper indicating its dimensions. The drawing also needs to reflect the location of the equipment and its connection to the pool and the electrical network.

Decide on the depth of the bowl. If it is intended exclusively for adults, then 2 meters is just right. If for children, then it all depends on their age and height. When installing a diving board, the depth must be at least 2.5 meters.

Planning is a serious and responsible matter. Under no circumstances should you rush. Do not start work until you are sure that your drawing is correct and specific.

Only after creating a detailed plan for this can work begin.

Digging a hole and preparing a pillow

The next step will be choosing a location, digging a pit and preparing a cushion for the foundation.

The place should initially be as level as possible. Electricity and water supply should also not cause problems for the future tank. Pay attention to these two points when choosing a location.

We clear the area of ​​plants and large stones, and then begin digging a hole. You can do this yourself, but this approach will take a lot of time and effort. If possible, contact a team of private workers or even the services of an excavator. This will significantly speed up the process and bring you closer to finishing the job.

Pit requirements:

• The bottom of the pit is 20-30 centimeters lower than the bottom of the future pool;
• The walls of the pit with a margin of 15-20 in each direction from the walls of the concrete bowl;
• The side walls should have a slope of 6-7 degrees to the outside;

Compliance with these requirements simplifies the installation of the pool. If they are violated, you will either not be able to complete the work at all, or you will do it with big problems.

Next, we install all the pipes that will be supplied to the pool. A bottom drain and side nozzles are installed, and from them the pipes go up. It is advisable to cover the holes tightly with a rag or film to prevent dirt from getting in during construction work.

After finally digging the hole, you need to prepare a cushion for the foundation. There is nothing complicated, you just need to pour the compounds in several layers and level them out. The first layer is 15-20 centimeters of sand. Next comes crushed stone 5-10 centimeters high.

We level each layer using a board with a level attached to it and compact it. If you are pouring cement, let it harden completely and only then proceed to further work.

The last layer is laid out with overlapping roofing felt or other waterproofing material. It will protect against external groundwater and leakage of the bowl itself.

Pouring the foundation

Now you need to install formwork from boards to fill the foundation of the tank. It is recommended to make the foundation slightly wider than the perimeter of the pool walls. This will give greater stability and durability to the structure.

The next step is to install reinforcement for the foundation. Rods with ribs with a diameter of 10-14 mm are used. The larger the area and depth of the tank, the thicker the reinforcement bars should be used. The mesh dimensions should be 20 by 20 centimeters.

The mesh of rods is installed in two layers. The first is located at a height of 5 centimeters above the pillow, and the second layer is 5 centimeters higher than the first. Thus, it turns out that our slab will be about 14-15 centimeters thick.

To accurately position the reinforcing layers at a height of 5 centimeters, use brick or wooden blocks. Professional installers have special stands in their arsenal.

At the site where the side walls are erected, the rods are bent vertically upward. Later we will tie reinforcement for the walls to them. This design is rigid and reliable.

To fill the base, you must first prepare a solution. To do this, you can order a special machine or do it yourself in a concrete mixer. But you need to work quickly so that your solution does not have time to harden while you are preparing a new batch.

To prevent air voids from forming in the thickness of the foundation, you can use a vibration machine or an ordinary rod. The vibration installation works in accordance with the instructions, and you simply lower the stick into the solution that has not yet hardened and make circular movements. This will allow air to escape to the surface.

Fill the side walls of the bowl

First of all, you need to make reinforcement of the side walls. To do this, we tie the steel bars to those that were bent vertically upward at the base reinforcement.

The installation of walls should only begin when the foundation has completely hardened. How quickly will this happen? Depends on weather conditions and the composition of the solution itself. On average, this period is 1 week.

The thickness of the walls of a concrete pool and the number of tiers of reinforcement directly depend on the volume of the pool. For a pool of 4*4 meters with a depth of up to 1.5 meters, it is permissible to use one tier. The thickness of the walls is 10-15 centimeters. If the area and depth are larger, then at least 2 tiers of reinforcement are installed, and the wall thickness is at least 20 cm.

Next, the formwork for the walls is installed. Wooden boards, plywood or chipboard sheets are used for it. All of them must be impregnated with a moisture-repellent composition. The joints of wooden sheets must be covered with some material or sealed.

Poured concrete will put a lot of pressure on the formwork. To avoid deformation or complete destruction of the structure, spacers are installed on both sides. Also, the formwork walls are nailed on top to small bars.

Formwork for steps and other pool shapes is also installed. Next, concrete is carefully but quickly poured into all walls at once.

Facing

After complete hardening, you can remove the formwork and begin waterproofing and lining the pool.

For waterproofing, special compounds are applied by spraying or using a roller. Carefully work out the junction of the walls and the foundation, as well as uneven areas of the walls. Let the composition dry completely.

A slight change in water level may be due to normal evaporation of moisture.

For final cladding, tiles, mosaics or film are used. Which to choose? Depends on your budget, preferences and ease of use of the material.

To install tiles and mosaics, use only high-quality glue that is not afraid of water. The seams also need to be treated with anti-funge compounds. This will significantly extend the life of the cladding and make it easier to maintain.

Thematic videos

Construction budget

What is the cost of a concrete pool? This question often arises among residents of private houses. Let's figure it out.

If you take all the work into your own hands, then the largest item on the list of materials will be concrete. You will also need a minimum set of equipment: a pump, a filter and a heater. And less tangible expenses will go to tiles, waterproofing, and so on.

Don't skimp on equipment. The entire circulating system should have time to pass the entire volume through itself 2-3 times a day. If this does not happen, the efficiency of cleaning and heating will approach zero.

On average, a pool with an area of ​​10-15 m2 will cost you 200-300 thousand rubles. Of this amount, approximately 100-150 will be spent on equipment, and the rest on construction materials. Of course, you can keep it to 150, it all depends on your requirements and desires.

We have provided an approximate average cost. Take it as a guide, and when you get serious about building your own tank, calculate everything exactly in accordance with the prices of your city.

So, today we have discussed in detail how to build a concrete pool with your own hands and how much this pleasure will cost you. You can also check out other step-by-step guides for installing artificial ponds on our website.

Today, more and more owners of personal plots are trying to equip a recreation area with maximum comfort, where the pool occupies a dominant place. A large selection of ready-made structures offered by manufacturers allows you to install any type of pool in a fairly short period. However, if reliability and durability are needed, then you should opt for casting a concrete bowl yourself. Thanks to this technology, you can build a pool of any shape, and even supplement it with equipment and accessories in accordance with personal preferences. This article will discuss how to make a concrete pool.

Monolithic pool bowl - all the pros and cons

The technology of a concrete pool involves high costs. Here it will be necessary to develop a project, rent special equipment for digging a pit and mixing concrete mortar. You will also need space for a technical room where rigid PVC pipes and additional equipment will be placed.

However, all efforts will be more than rewarded, because this design has:

• durability. The service life will be at least half a century; no pool made from cutting-edge materials can boast such performance characteristics;
• aesthetics. For finishing, you can choose any cladding, including ceramic tiles or porcelain mosaic. The materials are distinguished by an unlimited choice of colors. And they will last ten times longer than, for example, a film coating;
• originality. The shape of the bowl can be absolutely any, even a non-standard configuration. The size of the pool depends on the aesthetic preferences of the owner and the free space on the site;
• functionality. The pool can be made into a skimmer or overflow. This means that the design will allow for the placement of all the required equipment (filtration system, automatic top-up, heating, circulation pump, etc.);

• comfort. The physical and technical properties of concrete can muffle noise and reduce vibration of operating devices. This is an important factor when operating a pool.

All the positive aspects of a concrete pool will take place only with the right approach:

• to project development;
• to the choice of finishing materials;
• to carry out all technological processes.

Cost of building concrete pools

The approximate cost of a pool can only be found out during the design process. The final price will become known only upon completion of all work, because during the construction process any ideas may arise that affect the cost of the project.

In any case, the following factors influence the price level.

Bowl size and shape

• As a rule, a 2-cube bowl is sufficient for relaxing treatments. The most popular pools hold about 8 cubic meters of water. For swimming, you will need a bowl that can hold 30 cubic meters.
• The recommended depth of the pool for children is 1 meter, for adults - 1.6 m. If you plan to install a diving tower, then the depth of the thicket should be at least 2.5 m.

• Rectangular concrete bowl with a volume of 30 cubic meters. will cost approximately 450,000 rubles. The more complex the configuration, the more expensive the construction will be.

Facing material

Various materials are used to finish the surface of the bowl. Their price is per 1 sq. m will determine the total cost of cladding. For example, let's take three options located in different price segments.

• Budget. Russian ceramic tiles can be purchased for 400-600 rubles/sq.m; they fully correspond to the expression “cheap and cheerful”. This also includes Chinese glass mosaic, its price is 500-700 rubles.
• Middle segment. This category includes polypropylene film (with or without a pattern). Its cost ranges from 1,000 to 1,500 rubles. (Russia). Material with patterns from foreign companies is twice as expensive.
• Premium class. This segment involves cladding made of ceramic products from Italian manufacturers. The cheapest ceramic tile costs 1,500 rubles. per sq.m., but the maximum cost is 70,000 rubles (handmade).

Pool type

The amount of funds required to purchase the appropriate equipment will depend on what type of pool was preferred (skimmer or overflow). It is impossible to list all the components of the system, so here are only the main elements necessary for cleaning and heating water.

• A domestically produced filtration system will cost 7-10 thousand rubles. Imported equipment will cost from 25,000 rubles and above.
• The price of the simplest electric heater ranges from 20,000-40,000 rubles.
• The cost of a chlorine generator, which will make water crystal clear and safe, is approximately 7,000 rubles.
• Hydromassage equipment will increase costs by 200,000 rubles.

Additional accessories

• Various accessories will help fill the relaxation area with real comfort: a vacuum cleaner, chemicals, protective film, stairs, handrails and much more. An artificial waterfall for a recreation area (from 40,000 to 500,000 rubles) will help to emphasize the respectability of the owner.
• You can hide from the hot sun and at the same time protect the water surface from leaves using a canopy (awning) or covered pavilion. The material and complexity of the supporting structure will determine the total cost. According to the most conservative estimates, the canopy will cost 20,000 rubles.

• For internal illumination of the pool bowl, you can purchase LED spotlights with moisture-proof properties. The price of a cheap lighting device is 2,200 rubles.

Concrete pool design

The versatility of this technology is amazing. A concrete bowl can be cast not only for the construction of a full-fledged swimming pool, but also for garden ponds and for children’s “paddling pools”. The choice of shape and size is limited only to:

• free area;
• terrain;
• landscape design;
• the owner's imagination.

In most cases, pools are built in the form of a regular rectangle, popular sizes: 5x10, 6x3 and 8x4 m. A non-standard configuration will require more complex formwork, but this will be justified if the bowl needs to be placed in a limited area.

DIY concrete pool construction

Choosing a location for a swimming pool

• The area intended for construction must exceed the actual dimensions of the bowl. This is due to the fact that for the functionality of the pool it is necessary to lay underground communications, as well as provide space for installing a technical room.
• You should not place it near buildings. The absence of shade will allow the sun's heat to be used to warm the water. It is not recommended to choose a place near trees - foliage and dry twigs will quickly clog the water surface.
• When developing a project, it is important to take into account the location of the foundations, including buildings in neighboring areas. Take into account the depth of underground communications.

The water exchange system can be of 2 types.

• Skimmer. This system is relevant for pools with right angles. Contaminated water, under the action of a circulation pump, passes through the skimmer and bottom drain and enters the filtering equipment. After rough cleaning, heating and disinfection, the water returns through special holes to the pool bowl. The waterline is located in the middle of the skimmer window. The bottom of the pool is cleaned of debris with a vacuum cleaner.

• Overflow. The water in such a pool reaches its edge. Excess is removed through overflow gutters. Water enters a container equipped with an automatic top-up device. From the storage tank, water moves into the cleaning and heating system, and then again enters the bowl.

An overflow pool will cost more than a skimmer pool, but this system provides a higher degree of water purification.

Marking the area for the pit

• The boundaries of the future pool bowl are marked with a strong rope. In this case, the length, width and depth increase by 1 m. For routine inspection or repair of the pool, it is recommended to make hollow sections in the places where pipes and important components pass.
• The thickness of the bowl walls for an average volume of water is 40 cm; for a children’s “paddling pool” and small reservoirs, walls about 30 cm thick are allowed.
• The depth of the pit for the technical room must exceed the lower level of the pool. For convenient operation, the height of the room is made about 170 cm.
• When excavating soil, a slope of 5-7º is maintained on the walls of the pit. This technique will prevent them from falling off during ongoing work. It is also necessary to slope the bottom of the bowl towards the drainage system; this parameter should be within 3-4 cm per meter.
• Crushed stone will serve as additional drainage. To do this, a small hole is dug at the bottom of the pit, which is filled with coarse gravel. The workpiece is compacted tightly.

• Next, a sand cushion with a thickness of at least 30 cm is installed. For reliability, reinforced concrete piles can be laid on top of the sand; they can prevent uneven subsidence of the sand under the influence of the weight of the finished bowl. The next 10 cm layer is crushed stone 20x40. When filling and compacting materials, it is important not to “lose” the slope of the bottom.

Waterproofing concrete in a swimming pool

• Waterproofing the bottom of the pit is done using conventional bitumen-based roofing felt. The sheets of material should extend onto the walls by at least 25-30 cm. Ruberoid is laid with an overlap of 10 cm.
• If possible, you can use more modern materials with waterproofing properties. For example: rubberized coating, film or membrane.
• The bottom of the pit is reinforced with thin concrete. For final alignment, beacons are used, which are installed at the desired slope. The concrete solution is distributed evenly as a rule. After the mixture has set, the guides are dismantled.

Formwork

• To construct a structure for pouring walls with concrete, waterproof plywood with a thickness of 20-40 mm is used. If the shape of the bowl is complex, then edged lumber with a thickness of at least 40 mm is used. All boards are subject to processing, they are covered with paint, drying oil or varnish.

• The bowl is reinforced with steel reinforcement with a diameter of 8 to 14 mm. For rectangular pools, the rods are fastened with knitting wire in the form of a mesh with cells of 20x20 cm. For other cases, the metal rods are welded according to the shape of the bowl.
• The armored belt should cover not only the bottom of the formwork, but also extend to the entire height of the double-sided walls. To ensure that the rods remain in the thickness of the concrete, clamps and metal supports are used. For the bottom of the pool, you can take pieces of broken brick.
• All formwork elements are tightly connected to each other with screws, nails, and metal corners. Internal struts must be installed, as well as external supports, and the more often the better. This stage should be given due attention, because the concrete mixture has quite an impressive mass.

Pouring a concrete pool bowl

• The grade of concrete for the pool is selected to be at least M250. If mixing will be done manually, it is recommended to use cement grade no lower than 500. The proportion of sand and Portland cement is 2:1.
• So for 1 cu. mortar needed: 260 kg of cement; 440 kg of sand; 800 kg of crushed stone or gravel; 150 liters of water.
• Before starting work, you should provide for the depth of the bowl (when dividing into an adult and a children's compartment), technological openings for the passage of pipes, equipment, lighting, etc.

• To achieve a monolithic structure, pouring is performed without interruption. As the formwork is filled, the mixture is “punched” with a shovel or metal pin. It is mandatory to compact the mass using a vibrator.
• Such equipment will allow you to get rid of the formed air gaps, thereby increasing the strength of the walls. When the level drops, the solution is added and re-exposed to the vibrator.

Internal waterproofing

• After the concrete has hardened, the formwork elements are dismantled. Next, all equipment components are connected, the functionality of each element and the system as a whole is checked.
• The inside of the bowl should be treated with special solutions. As a rule, before this, the cement surface is cleaned of dust and other contaminants.
• The waterproofing is applied with a brush with synthetic bristles onto slightly damp concrete. The second layer is applied after the previous one has dried. The treated surface should not be exposed to sub-zero temperatures and mechanical stress for 3-4 days.
• At the same time, the coating must be periodically moistened by spraying water. Peeling and cracking indicate a violation of the application technology.
• More detailed instructions are provided by manufacturers on each package of waterproofing material.

Pool lining made of concrete

• Among the finishing materials, ceramic tiles and mosaics are especially popular. A wide range of colors of these materials makes it possible to realize your wildest fantasies. The only requirement for such types of coating is the presence of an anti-slip layer.
• Before applying moisture-resistant tile adhesive, a reinforcing mesh is attached to the surface. The lining starts from the bottom of the bowl. In order to have entire tiles in the visible area, it is necessary to calculate how many elements will fit in a vertical row. In this case, the bottom tiles are simply cut to the required dimensions. In your calculations, do not forget to take into account the seams between the tiles.
• The joints are sealed with grout, which must withstand moisture and temperature changes. The color of the grout material is matched to the tile or you can play with contrasts.

Lighting

It is better to invite professional electricians to connect lighting fixtures. After all, lighting should be safe first and only then effective.

• The selection of spotlights is simply huge. It is worth noting that special devices have an IP54 index. Typically, cases are made of stainless steel or plastic; for more expensive models, bronze is used.
• The lighting elements are halogen lamps and LEDs. The cost of the latter option is undoubtedly higher, but LED lighting is more economical in terms of power consumption and is more durable.

Pool safety covers

• Covered canopies will not only protect the water surface from leaves and small debris, but will also help to significantly reduce energy costs. The principle of arranging a greenhouse is applied here. This approach will extend the life of the pool.
• Metal-plastic or polycarbonate are perfect for these purposes. Of course, these canopies cannot be classified as budget options.
• In winter, the pool is covered with an awning; ready-made solutions are presented in a huge range. A similar design can be made on your own. A metal frame is installed around the perimeter of the bowl, and a polypropylene film is stretched over it.

Pool made of concrete video

The popularity of swimming pools in local areas is just beginning to gain momentum. Today there are many specialized companies ready to complete a project of any complexity. However, the cost of installation is beyond the reach of many site owners.

Anyone can build a “primitive” pool on their own; significant difficulties may arise if a complex hydraulic structure is planned. There are big costs ahead: labor, materials, time, but nevertheless, the return in the form of a wonderful vacation spot for many decades is guaranteed in the future.

It’s possible to make a concrete pool with your own hands at your dacha, despite the apparent complexity, even if it takes a few weeks and costs a lot of material.

In the minds of the average person, a concrete pool is a reservoir with a system for collecting and discharging water.

Indeed, concrete pools are simple in design, unless, of course, you mean anything with the “hi-tech” prefix.

We will tell you how to build a concrete pool at your dacha correctly with your own hands, what are the nuances, how to finish the bowl and what the technology is, in the text with the video.

It seems that it is too early to talk about construction; you must first delve into the construction of a concrete pool.

But we immediately decided to present 12 construction nuances that will give a complete picture of what concrete pools are, the structure and technology of their construction in the country.

• Construction site - soil exploration for water must be carried out, since due to the rise of underground water, construction may end before it begins;
• Garbage - if leaves fall at the dacha, it makes sense to make a skimmer pool - with a filter that constantly renews the top layer of water;
• Indoor pool - put a roof, plastic walls and you get an indoor pool. And since there is a room and water, then ventilation must be present;
• Neighborhood with buildings - the foundation of a nearby building will put pressure on the pit and may itself suffer;
• Excavation angle - the pit is always wider and larger than the bowl, so you need to take into account the angle of digging, especially sand. It is free-flowing, which is why cast-in-place piles and shields are used;
• Pit inside the premises - the depth does not exceed the depth of the foundation;
• Backfill - we are talking about river sand, which absorbs groundwater well;
• Filling - the concrete pad should extend forward and outward by 20 mm at all edges. The higher the negative water pressure in the soil, the more the cushion should protrude. Otherwise, the concrete will rise several centimeters above the level;
• Formwork - concrete pools according to the construction principle - the same self-leveling foundation of the building. During formwork, the walls and bottom of the pool are reinforced in different planes, the reinforcement is laid horizontally and vertically with bandaging;
• Pouring - the pouring technology requires up to 10 days, otherwise the concrete will not gain the required strength. On a hot day, concrete should be moderately moistened. And the most important technical nuance of the point: the concrete at the bottom is compacted with an electric vibrator over the entire surface;
• Curing - under normal temperature and humidity conditions, the bowl is kept for almost a month so that the concrete is completely dry. Concrete pools are not made in 2 weeks;
• Contractors - all work must be performed by one contractor. If one company digs the pit, another company does the cladding and design, then this is not a contractor, but an intermediary, and you overpay.

Construction: from design to concrete pouring

Now it's time for detailed instructions (see video). We will describe all aspects of pouring a concrete pool, because technologically it is correct to say “pouring”.

There are no formulas or calculations in design. The main thing is to take into account the main points. We select a site at the dacha and conduct reconnaissance for groundwater.

We choose the type of placement of the bowl - flush with the site or with a rise. Estimate how many people it will fit in: for an adult it requires 5 meters in length and about 1.5 meters in depth.

So if the family is large, then you need at least 8-10 meters in length and 4 meters in width. Decide on the shape and size.

We calculate the thickness of the walls and bottom - these variables depend on the depth of the pool and the groundwater level at the dacha. We design drainage, steps, lighting. Consider a water disposal system.

It is better to dig a pit using equipment. A tractor with a bucket will dig the required pit in just a couple of hours. But you need to know the structure of the pit.

Increase the dimensions of the pit so that the bowl and all communications fit in it at once, which means that the thickness of the formwork, concrete, all communications and plus the dimensions of the bowl itself are included in the calculations for the width and length of the pit.

Observe the angle when digging: there should be a small angle of deviation from the vertical - the soil will not crumble.

Drainage - you need a place for drainage so that water outside the pool does not accumulate and spoil the landscape.

When digging, the bottom is laid with a slope of 5-7% towards the drain: for every meter of the bottom - 2-3 cm of slope.

A bed of sand and gravel will allow you to pour concrete with high quality. A mixture of crushed stone and sand 30-35 cm thick is poured onto the bottom of the boiler. We place boards made of boards at the height of the walls of the pool, but no more than 50 cm wide.

To make the sheathing: we hammer in a peg every half meter, which will protrude above the ground level, and connect every 50 cm in height with a wooden board. We sew the shields to the frame on both sides.

We connect the stakes with jumpers and place supports under the shields. For 1 cubic meter of concrete you will need 320 kg of cement, 170 liters of water, 620 kg of sand and 1250 kg of crushed stone.

To calculate the amount of ingredients for the solution, taking into account the size of the project, it is better and easier to use an online calculator.

For the screed, composition V-25 is used, and for the bowl it is strictly hydraulic - grade V-24P4W6 in terms of strength and water resistance not lower than W6.

When the bowl is ready, you can also pour the steps over the formwork or place the stairs on anchor bolts during finishing.

After the concrete is poured, it will take almost a month before finishing can begin.

Making a pit, formwork, pouring the screed and the entire bowl are the most expensive and technologically complex tasks, and everything that follows - finishing and design - is the most pleasant and simple.

The DIY concrete pool is almost ready, now it’s a matter of insulation and finishing.

Waterproofing: methods and technologies

A concrete pool must be waterproofed from the influence of groundwater, as well as the bowl itself from constant water.

Waterproofing serves to prevent the destruction of concrete due to moisture penetrating through pores and small cracks.

If waterproofing was not done in a timely manner when pouring the bowl itself, then any cracks, even 1 mm, will lead to damage to the bowl and waterproofing afterwards, in an attempt to save the situation, will not help much.

Rolled and coating materials are used for insulation. The coating is applied to the foundation of the bowl from the inside. Typically a polymer composite insulating composition is used.

Rolled is used purely for external insulation.

Insulation is needed from the inside and outside of the bowl, which means exactly two layers are required: the outer layer is obtained by introducing additives into the solution before pouring - polymers and minerals that improve strength and hydrophobicity.

The inner layer is applied before finishing. Coating insulation is usually used.

Today there is a large selection of insulation materials.

Polyethylene is the cheapest material, but in case of the slightest leak, you will have to completely change the entire layer.

Membrane film - PVC, EPDM and others - is a high-quality material, the installation of which requires qualifications. It costs a lot, but durability and environmental friendliness negate the high cost of installation.

Mastics are a composite composition of the penetrating insulation type. There are a variety of mixtures on the market, such as Penetron, Calmatron, Xipex - dozens of them.

Bentonite mat - sodium bentonite in its composition - is a natural material. It differs from all others in its self-regeneration: the gel seals cracks, so bentonite perfectly resists any damage.

The only drawback is that the mat does not tolerate strong water pressure, as the granules are washed out.

Liquid rubber: seamless insulation. A sort of gold standard.

Liquid glass is a new type of material – polymer impregnation. It is an aqueous emulsion of resin-polymer, which penetrates into the thickness of the bowl wall and over time turns into plastic.

Coating is a paste-like composite composition that is completely spread onto concrete pools.

Bitumen - presented in this list only as a tribute to the technologies of the past. Absolutely nothing but shortcomings.

Bowl finish

Finishing is the final stage. There are several finishing options to choose from.

Plaster - simple cement mixtures are not accepted by concrete pools - their adhesion is poor. First you need to secure the plaster mesh.

Although an anti-corrosion coating is applied to the mesh, water can still penetrate through the plaster and it will begin to crumble.

To prevent this outcome, synthetic mesh and waterproof plaster are used.

Tiles - tiles with high water absorption from 0.14 to 1% have anti-slip elements, and the best ones are German and Italian.

The tiles are laid with waterproof adhesive, and the seams are grouted with durable grout.

Mosaic - Mosaic is expensive and rare. Its high cost is associated with complex finishing, which can be done by only a few specialists.

Film - provides additional tightness, even if there are cracks in the concrete. Has a ribbed surface for steps. Tip: you need to lay it so evenly that there are no bulges or folds.

The sheets are joined together by warm welding, and the seams are filled with sealant.

Conclusion

Making a concrete pool in a country house requires significant costs and more than 1 month of work.

We did not consider constructing a pool project from concrete blocks or from rings, which implies the use of ready-made concrete rings, but filling the bowl to your taste.

Concrete pools are relatively simple to create, but there is a clear description of the entire technology that must be strictly followed and then the result will exceed any expectations.

A swimming pool made of concrete, and done with your own hands, is a source of pride and an experience that will teach you how to pour concrete, make a foundation and finish surfaces all at once.

The pool construction service begins with deciding what kind of foundation for a pool is best to lay, and what materials it is wiser to make a bowl from. Before digging a pit, it is worth understanding the type of font. Its characteristics will help you choose the appropriate type of foundation for the pool, the finish of the bowl and materials for laying the foundation. We recommend concrete bowls, although the market can also offer ready-made polypropylene and plastic structures. Why concrete? This is a cheap and time-tested building material. The organization of the pool in accordance with technological standards and the correct laying of the foundation ensure that the artificial reservoir will last without the need for repairs for over 75-80 years. Order an artificial pond for swimming from our company “AquaRai” - we have been building custom pools for over 18 years.

How to make a foundation for a swimming pool?

When organizing stationary pools, it is proposed to use a pile, columnar foundation or reinforced concrete preparation. The last option is cheaper, faster and more reliable. It is suitable for concrete bowls and can withstand heavy loads. If the soil in which the pit will be prepared is loose and has low bearing capacity, then pillars are placed under the reinforced concrete pad. Let's take a closer look at how to make a foundation for a pool so that it can withstand loads and the structure does not leak.

Construction stages:

• Excavation. The dimensions of the pit should be 30-40 cm in height, and 55-65 cm larger in length and width than the desired dimensions of the bowl.
• Cleaning the bottom. The work is carried out manually. It is necessary to remove rhizomes, excess soil and carefully level the surface under the base.
• Compacting the soil.
• Laying bedding from a gravel-sand mixture. Its thickness should be at least 10 cm. If you do not know how to build a foundation for a pool, then take our advice - lay the sand-gravel mixture in layers of 3 cm. A layer of sand, followed by a layer of gravel. Each subsequent layer is laid on the carefully compacted previous layer.
• Concrete screed grade M 350-400. The thickness of the concrete layer is at least 12 cm.
• Waterproofing works. They use polyethylene film, vapor barrier and thermostop class materials. This way your pool will always be warm.
• Laying screed with reinforcement. At this stage, it is important not only to know how to pour the foundation for the pool, but also how to knit the reinforcement. The base must be strong, without exposed metal cords and level, otherwise the foundation will not support the weight of the pool.

When organizing a reservoir, laying the foundation is the most important stage, after completing which you will need to take care of strengthening the walls, installing formwork and other nuances. A swimming pool is a complex hydraulic structure, the construction of which must be carried out in strict compliance with technologies and standards. If at least one point is not met, the structure should be considered unsafe. It will require repairs. You can order pool repairs from the AquaRai company with a guarantee.

The foundation and its pitfalls

The construction of an artificial reservoir or the construction of swimming pools on clay soils requires a reinforced sand cushion - at least 15 cm. It will protect the foundation from pressure. This must be taken into account when building an outdoor pool. And if there is a difference in heights at the construction site of a reservoir, then it is better to choose a pile foundation under a concrete pad. With its help, it is easier and cheaper to compensate for even significant differences. It is extremely difficult to eliminate all pitfalls. For these purposes, specialists initially carry out a survey of the site, and then draw up a design for the pool with calculations of all loads. It’s not easy to do the calculations yourself, so it’s wiser to trust the experts.