How to paint the foundation of a house and how to get the job done

House foundation paint is used only for exterior surfaces. There are quite a lot of dyes and each of them has its own positive and negative qualities.

Today we will look at how to paint the foundation and analyze the sequence of work. You will also learn the characteristics of the most used materials and be able to make right choice.

Why paint: stages of performing the work

Home owners should pay more attention to protecting the base from various influences (atmospheric, mechanical or chemical) than to protecting the facades of the building.

Attention: The base needs additional protection with special impregnations, paints and primers that are resistant to aggressive influences.

• This is of such great importance because if the finishing of the base is damaged, the foundation of the house (together with the base itself and the walls) will lose its protection against saline solutions and water - intensive destruction will begin. And it is necessary to insure your home in advance against these consequences. The protection of the base is ensured by its proper painting.
• Abundance of offers on the specialized market building materials can confuse a person when choosing protective paint for his home. The paints differ in the base on which they are produced. And the choice must be made according to the material of the base itself.
• It is also worth separating the location of the premises. If it is near the road, then moisture will aggressively affect it here.
• If the building is low, then basement part will remain in the snow for a long time and there will be large temperature changes.

It is for these reasons that you need to make the right choice and protect the premises from bad weather and destruction. In addition, it is through this part that the majority of moisture penetrates, which is also collected from the soil. Before purchasing, you must read the instructions for the dye, which are on the packaging; the coating must be moisture resistant.

All work is done in the following order and it is quite possible to do it yourself:

Plastering the base	At this stage we make a flat plane. Basically, plaster is applied before painting (see Plastering the base as a way to protect, strengthen and decorate it). When performing work, you need to ensure a flat plane; for this, a fishing line is stretched diagonally and we are guided by it when applying the solution. After drying, the surface must be primed. This will promote adhesion of surfaces.
We apply waterproofing	It must be applied. This will be another protection against moisture penetration. After all, there will be plenty of it. This material is commercially available in cans and large containers. It is better to choose the second option, then the price will be much cheaper.
Applying dye	The dye is applied when positive temperature. Moreover, you need to apply at least three layers. Each subsequent one is applied after the previous one has completely dried.

Choosing a dye

Painting the foundation of a house is not a difficult task, but it is quite responsible. And how to paint the foundation of the house needs to be decided right away. Dyes have their own characteristics, they are different. So let’s go through them right away and make our choice.

Acrylic paint

Produced at water based and contains acrylic dyes. These paints contain acrylic resins. The paint also contains copolymers.

Due to this content, the paint is widely used for painting concrete. It promotes the formation of a polymer layer on the surface of concrete. This layer serves as protection from all external influences.

Advantages:

• Easy to apply
• Drying speed
• Can be applied in one layer
• Consumption within 0.35-0.4 kg/m2 (economy)

Latex paint

Latex paint is a type of water-based paint. coloring materials. It consists of water, polymers and pigment. Manufacturers note the possibility of the presence of acrylic or silicone resins in the paint.

Consistency latex paint can be changed with various solvents. This paint can be used to paint fresh concrete (but its humidity should be 50%).

Advantages:

• Resistant to temperature changes (frost resistance);
• Moisture resistant (prevents moisture penetration);
• Fills microcracks during painting
• Easy to clean and not damaged;
• Drying speed (up to 4 hours);
• Consumption within 1 liter per 8-9 m2.

Epoxy paint

Epoxy paints can protect the foundation of a house from external influences for up to 25 years. It is based on epoxy resins. This is one of the most durable and durable coatings for painting facades.

• The composition of this paint is two-component (they are mixed before use): epoxy resin and hardener. Thanks to this, epoxy enamel provides strong adhesion to the surface being treated.
• It can be painted fresh concrete and its characteristics will be improved. This composition should be applied in two layers, taking into account that each layer will dry for about 24 hours.

Advantages:

• Vapor permeability;
• UV resistance;
• Resistance to acid-base solutions.

Polyurethane paints

Polyurethane enamel contains a set of polymers that provide first-class protection for the surface being treated.

• The question of how to paint a concrete foundation disappears with this dye. A concrete foundation painted with polyurethane paint will be reliably protected from chemical influences.
• This paint is also two-component (both components are mixed before painting). Application is recommended in two layers, each layer dries within 24 hours.
• Mechanical strength occurs after a week from the completion of paint work. Chemical resistance will occur within two weeks.

Advantages:

• Improving the properties of concrete (strengthening, preventing destruction and excessive dust);
• Resistance to temperature changes;
• Blockage of microcracks and micropores (formation of crystals, the presence of which prevents detachment);
• Formation of a protective polymer film with the possibility of penetration deep into the surface.

Alkyd paints

The composition of alkyd enamels for painting is based on alkyd resin. To produce alkyd dyes, these resins are extracted from vegetable oil processing.

Drying agents added to the composition help the paint dry very quickly. Alkyd paints have a wide color palette.

Advantages:

• High drying speed;
• UV resistance;
• Resistance to chemical cleaning agents;
• Low temperature resistance;
• Deep penetration into the treated surface;
• Economical consumption (approximately 180 grams per square meter).

Attention: Paints of this type require several layers. When used indoors, it is fire hazardous.

Oil paints

Well-known paints are based on drying oil, extracted from vegetable oils and enriched with pigment fillers. Due to its properties, it forms a paint film with high strength on concrete. This coating has excellent density.

Oil paint can be applied to concrete only after it has completely cured. The oil paint itself dries about a day after application.

Advantages:

• Price-quality ratio (at low cost, the paint has good protective qualities);
• Economical consumption (approximately 250 grams per square meter).

Good for any building paint coating should be:

• Aesthetic;
• High-quality (reliability and durability are the main criteria for the quality of paints of all types);
• Technically compatible with the application site.

In addition to general characteristics, paint must be selected based on the type of buildings that need to be treated. The efficiency of processing and the achievement of the final goal - protecting the foundation from aggressive influences - depend on this. environment.

Paint the basement of a house within the city

If the base of a city house requires protection by painting, then you should choose a material that is highly resistant to aggressive agents.

• Such as petroleum products, willows, wastewater. Their influence on the foundations of urban houses is especially dangerous. Therefore, you need to give preference to solvent-based paints and use only breathable acrylic primer before using them.
• With this treatment, excess moisture from the base will evaporate, but the flow of moisture from outside will be stopped.

Paint the basement of a house in the village

A country house has its advantages over urban buildings. First of all, the environmental friendliness of the location dictates the features of its content.

• The foundation of a house in a village or forest is not subject to such destructive influences as in the city.
• Environmental cleanliness helps your home last much longer. Therefore, to protect the base of such a house, you can choose water-dispersion paints. The primer you should prefer is silicone or acrylic.
• As for universal products, quartz soils are said to be the most effective. They are widely used due to their affordability and optimal characteristics for all types of buildings.

You will already select what color to paint the foundation of the house according to the desired design. There is only one recommendation here: the base should not be made the same color as the frames. It should be whitened at least a shade. By watching the video in this article, you can get additional information, which will be useful to you.

The foundation is the foundation of the house. The durability of the entire structure as a whole depends on its strength and safety. The foundation is affected by rain, groundwater and capillary water, as a result of which it subsides and deforms. Concrete has the property of absorbing moisture well, which, rising up through the capillaries, penetrates the walls and floor, providing ideal conditions for the formation of mold and other fungi. Also important is the problem associated with the operation of concrete foundations in a continental climate, where water freezes and thaws annually. Water that penetrates into the pores of concrete, which freezes and thaws inside, leads to the destruction of the integrity of the foundation. To protect your structure from the destructive effects of water, timely waterproofing of the foundation is required. Waterproofing measures carried out during the construction phase will ensure the safety of the house. If you are still tormented by doubts about whether to do it or not, keep in mind that in the future, repairing the foundation will cost more than building the frame of a house, and there is no point in talking about the labor intensity and complexity of the work.

Main load-bearing element the house requires extremely close attention at all stages of construction, from calculations and installation to work on hydro- and thermal insulation. To say that waterproofing a foundation with your own hands is a simple matter is to be lying. The technology itself requires certain knowledge and understanding of the processes occurring in soil and concrete, as well as in certain waterproofing materials. Experience is also important, so before waterproofing the foundation, it doesn’t hurt to consult with a specialist and take into account his recommendations.

The first thing you need to do is decide on a set of waterproofing measures. To do this, a number of starting conditions should be taken into account:

• Groundwater level;
• The force of soil “swelling” in the post-frost period;
• Soil heterogeneity;
• Operating conditions of the building.

If the maximum groundwater level is more than 1 m below the base of the foundation, then it will be sufficient to carry out coating vertical waterproofing and horizontal waterproofing using roofing felt.

If the groundwater level is higher than 1 m from the base of the foundation, but does not reach the basement level or reaches it extremely rarely, then for high-quality waterproofing the set of measures will have to be expanded. Perform horizontal waterproofing in two layers with mastic between them. For vertical insulation, use and coating method, and pasted with roll materials. Depending on the budget planned for materials for waterproofing the foundation, you can additionally treat all concrete elements of the foundation and basement with penetrating waterproofing, which stops the movement of water through the capillaries.

If the groundwater level is higher than the base of the foundation and the level of the basement floor, or the area in which the house is built is famous for frequent and heavy rainfall, which seeps into the ground for a long time and difficultly, then in addition to the previous list of measures, it is necessary to equip a drainage system around the entire house.

For foundation waterproofing, the price will depend on the surface area that needs to be treated, the set of measures, the type and quantity of waterproofing materials. In the easiest case, you will only have to spend money on bitumen. And in the most complex case - simultaneously for materials for coating, roll, penetrating waterproofing and for work on arranging drainage or a pressure wall.

For strip and monolithic (solid) foundations, horizontal waterproofing is carried out in two places:

• At or below 15 - 20 cm level of the basement floor;
• In the base and at the junction of the foundation and the wall.

Important! Horizontal waterproofing can only be done during the construction phase of the house, so take care of it in a timely manner.

Before starting all work on arranging the foundation and basement, it is necessary to pour a 20-30 cm layer of fatty clay onto the bottom of the pit, and then compact it thoroughly. Concrete is poured on top with a layer of 5 - 7 cm. It is necessary in order to arrange waterproofing for the foundation. Before laying waterproofing, the concrete must dry and harden well for at least 10 to 15 days. Next, the concrete is carefully coated with bitumen mastic over the entire area, and the first layer of roofing material is laid on it. Then the surface is coated with mastic again and another layer of roofing felt is laid. A 5-7 cm layer of concrete is poured on top, which must be leveled and reinforced.

Important! Ironing also refers to measures that provide waterproofing. It is done using the following technology: after 2 - 3 hours, a layer of 1 - 2 cm of cement, sifted through a fine sieve, is poured on top of freshly poured concrete. Then it is leveled. After some time, the cement should become wet from the moisture contained in the concrete. Next, the surface is treated in the same way as with a regular concrete screed - it is moistened with water from time to time until the concrete reaches strength and dries.

After completing the arrangement of a strip or pile foundation, it also needs to be waterproofed so that moisture does not rise up into the walls. To do this, the surface is opened with bitumen mastic, and roofing felt or other rolled material is laid on top. The procedure is performed twice to get two layers. The edges of the rolled material hanging from the foundation are not cut off, but are brought down and then pressed with vertical waterproofing.

Drainage system design

Depending on the groundwater level and soil structure, foundation waterproofing may require the presence of drainage system, which will collect and drain excess atmospheric and groundwater into a separate well. Basically, this need arises when groundwater is high and soil permeability is poor.

To install a drainage system, it is necessary to dig a trench around the perimeter of the object at a distance of at least 0.7 m from it. The depth depends on the level of the water surface. Width - 30 - 40 cm. Trenches should be located with a slight slope towards the collecting well or pit. We lay geotextiles at the bottom, wrapping the edges 80 - 90 cm over the sides of the trench. Fill up with gravel or crushed stone in a 5 cm layer along the entire length of the trench. Then we lay perforated drainage pipes with a slope of 0.5 cm for each linear meter. We fill the gravel with a layer of 20 - 30 cm, after washing it first so as not to clog the pipes. Then we wrap everything in the remaining edges of the geotextile. We bring the pipes into the collecting well. We fill it with soil.

The drainage system can be completed after the construction of the house is completed or even after some time during operation, if such a need is identified.

Vertical foundation waterproofing

To perform waterproofing vertical surface foundation can be used various materials, combining them with each other. Of the options proposed below, you can use one or several at once, depending on the individual construction conditions.

The cheapest option to this day is the coating waterproofing of the foundation using bitumen resin. To do this, we purchase bitumen; most often it is sold in bars.

Pour 30% waste oil and 70% bitumen into a large container (pan, bucket, vat). The container needs to be heated, to do this we make a fire under it or put it on gas stove. When the bitumen warms up to the state of a liquid mixture, you can begin to apply it to the surface, which must first be leveled.

Using a roller or brush, apply bitumen to the surface of the foundation, trying to coat everything thoroughly. We begin to coat from the very bottom of the foundation and end 15 - 20 cm above the ground surface. Apply 2 - 3 layers of bitumen so that the total thickness is 3 - 5 cm.

Important! All this time, the container with bitumen must be hot so that it does not harden.

Bitumen penetrates and fills all the pores of concrete, preventing moisture from entering it. It will last 5 years - a relatively long time. Then it will begin to deteriorate and crack, letting water into the concrete.

To extend the service life of coating waterproofing, you can use bitumen-polymer mastics; they do not have the disadvantages of pure bitumen and are more durable. The market can offer both hot and cold applied mastics, as well as polymer solutions with a hard or liquid consistency. Methods for applying such materials can be different: using a roller, spatula, trowel or spray.

Pasted waterproofing of the foundation using rolled materials

Use roll waterproofing materials can be used either separately or in addition to the coating method.

The most common and relatively cheap material for adhesive insulation is roofing felt. Before fixing it to the surface of the foundation, it must be treated with a bitumen primer or mastic, as in the previous method.

Then we heat up the roofing felt sheets gas burner and apply it to the vertical surface of the foundation with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm. This method is called fusing. But it is also possible to secure the roofing material using special adhesive mastics. We again cover the top with bitumen mastic and glue another layer of roofing felt.

Important! Before fusing roofing material, it is necessary to edge horizontal waterproofing wrap it down and press it, fusing the rolled material on top.

Instead of roofing felt, you can use more modern roll materials: TechnoNIKOL, Stekloizol, Rubitex, Gidrostekloizol, Technoelast or others. Their polymer base is polyester, which increases elasticity, wear resistance and improves performance characteristics. Despite the higher price compared to roofing felt, these materials are recommended for use for waterproofing foundations. But they will not be able to provide sufficient strength to the coating without treatment with mastic, since they do not penetrate the pores.

Instead of adhesive waterproofing, you can use liquid rubber, which has good adhesion to the base, is durable and non-flammable. And most importantly, the surface is seamless, which provides better protection. If foundation waterproofing work is done manually, on your own, then one-component liquid rubber, for example, Elastopaz or Elastomix, is suitable.

Material consumption per 1 m2 is 3 - 3.5 kg.

Elastopaz applied layer by layer, in two layers, drying will require at least 24 hours at a temperature of +20 ° C. Sold in 18 kg buckets, cheaper than Elastomix. If the bucket is not completely used, it can be sealed tightly and used later.

Elastomix applied in one layer, drying will require no more than 2 hours at a temperature of +15 ° C. Sold in 10 kg buckets, more expensive than Elastopaz. If the bucket with Elastomix is ​​not completely used, the mixture cannot be stored, since the adsorbent activator, which is added to the mixture before use, will cause the contents of the bucket to turn into rubber within 2 hours.

Which material to choose depends on the preferences of the owner and the time frame for implementation. Before application liquid rubber the surface must be cleared of dust and treated with a primer. After an hour, apply liquid rubber using a roller, spatula or brush according to the instructions on the package.

The surface treated with liquid rubber may require protection from external influences if the backfill soil contains stones or construction debris. In this case, the foundation must be covered with geotextiles or a pressure wall must be installed.

Penetrating foundation waterproofing

Penetrating waterproofing refers to materials whose substances are capable of penetrating 100 - 200 mm into the concrete structure and crystallizing inside. Hydrophobic crystals prevent water from penetrating into the concrete structure and rising through the capillaries. It also prevents corrosion of concrete and increases its frost resistance.

Materials such as “Penetron”, “Aquatron-6” and “Hydrotex” are classified as penetrating anti-capillary waterproofing and differ in the depth of penetration and method of application. Most often, such materials are used to process the internal concrete surfaces of a foundation, basement or ground floor.

It is best to apply penetrating waterproofing to wet concrete. To do this, first clean the surface from dust and then thoroughly moisten it. We apply the material in several layers. After it is absorbed, the outer film can be removed.

To level and at the same time waterproof the vertical surface of the foundation, you can use special plaster mixtures with the addition of moisture-resistant components: hydroconcrete, polymer concrete or asphalt mastics.

Plastering is carried out using the same technology as plastering walls using beacons. To prevent cracks from appearing for a long time, it is recommended to apply it hot. After drying, the plaster layer must be protected by clay castle and backfill with clay.

Screen waterproofing of the foundation

In fact, this method is a modern replacement for a clay castle. To protect the foundation from aggressive pressure waters, bentonite mats, which are based on clay, are used. By the way, they can be used in addition to other methods of waterproofing. Clay mats are secured to the treated foundation using dowels. They are laid with an overlap of 15 cm. Then a concrete pressure wall is installed nearby, which will serve as an obstacle to prevent the mats from swelling.

During operation, the paper component of the mats is destroyed, and the clay is pressed into the surface of the foundation, performing a protective function.

The clay castle is also designed to keep pressure waters to the foundation. To do this, a 0.6 m trench is dug around it. A layer of crushed stone is poured onto the bottom. Then the bottom and wall of the trench are compacted with greasy clay in several layers with breaks for drying. The remaining space is covered with either gravel or clay, and a blind area is installed on top.

During spring floods, the clay will not allow water to reach the foundation, and the lower moisture will escape through the crushed stone layer.

Waterproofing the foundation is a responsible undertaking. In this article, we examined only the most common methods. If you decide to do all the work yourself, remember that the main thing for the success of the business is to choose the right materials and necessary measures. Then the foundation will last a long time and will not require costly repairs.

Drainage land plot- the most important stage preparing the area for construction. The use of drainage pipes significantly speeds up and simplifies the installation of drainage systems. Drainage pipes are necessary to drain water from high groundwater levels.

When constructing the foundation for wooden house, special attention It is worth paying attention to its waterproofing. The quality, strength and durability of the foundation will depend on it. Leaks concrete mixture at the flooding stage, groundwater can cause great damage, from constant dampness in the house to subsidence of the building and cracks in load-bearing walls. Therefore, such a process as waterproofing the foundation with your own hands should be approached correctly and responsibly. After all, this is the basis for insulating the foundation.

General rules

1. Whatever waterproofing method you choose, you need to take into account several operational points:
2. It is necessary to determine the groundwater level (the type of waterproofing will directly depend on this).
3. Take into account the possibility of flooding in the event of heavy rainfall and floods (this is especially true for loose soils).
4. The force of “swelling” of the soil during frost (water, during the process of freezing/thawing, constantly changes its structure and expands/contracts, leading to both loosening and lifting of the soil, and has a destructive effect on the foundation)
5. The conditions under which the building will be operated (if this is a future warehouse, then the waterproofing conditions are correspondingly higher).

There are only two types of foundation waterproofing - horizontal and vertical.

Advice: at the foundation construction stage, you should not skimp on the so-called “sand cushion”. It is not only necessary to reduce concrete leakage, but is also protected against erosion of the foundation. Moisture protection is also necessary to protect the floor of the house from moisture.

Horizontal waterproofing

It is carried out at the stage of constructing the foundation for a wooden house and will require extra time(12-17 days) at the stage preparatory work. The drainage system also refers to horizontal waterproofing and is used when high level groundwater.

Strip foundation waterproofing scheme

This option is best suited for waterproofing the foundation belt type for a log house and a monolithic slab foundation.

Preparation and styling

Clay is poured into the bottom of the pit dug for the foundation and carefully compacted; the laying layer should be around 20-30 cm (you can use a “sand cushion” instead of clay). On top of the clay it is done concrete screed 5-8 cm. After the concrete has hardened (10-12 days), it is carefully treated with bitumen mastic and the first layer of roofing material is laid. Then the process is repeated again, treatment with mastic - laying roofing felt. Another concrete screed (5-8cm) is made on the second layer of roofing felt.

After the concrete has hardened, the main process of constructing the foundation is carried out, which can be additionally insulated in various vertical ways.

Also, do not forget about waterproofing the top of the foundation, because the first crown of the log house will be laid on it wooden house, which can lead to rotting of the base of the log house.

Installation of a drainage system during foundation waterproofing to lower the groundwater level

When performing the procedure as: DIY foundation waterproofing A drainage system may be necessary. It is necessary if the depth of the foundation is lower than or equal to the flow of groundwater or if the permeability of the soil is poor and the water does not go into the soil itself and begins to accumulate.

How it works

A small trench is dug along the perimeter of the building at a distance of at least 70-100 cm. The depth of the trench should be 20-25 cm below the foundation pouring level, the width should be 20-30 cm. The trench should have a slight slope towards the well collecting water.

The edges of the geotextile are laid on the bottom, which is wrapped on the walls of the trench by 60-70 cm. Next, the trench is filled with a 5cm layer of gravel, on which a special drainage pipe is laid with a slope of 5mm/1m of pipe (Tip: the desired slope can be achieved by adding gravel). Another 20-25 cm layer of gravel is poured over the pipe and all this is wrapped in the protruding edges of geotextile and sprinkled with earth.

This design allows moisture to pass through drainage pipe and prevents it from clogging. The pipes, in turn, drain water into a special water collector (the dimensions of the pit or well are calculated individually depending on the influx of water).

Vertical waterproofing

Vertical waterproofing means treating the walls of the foundation itself directly. It contains many ways to protect the foundation (will be discussed below) and is possible both at the construction stage and after the construction of the building.

Do-it-yourself methods for vertical waterproofing a foundation

One of the simplest and cheapest methods of insulation, and therefore the most common.

The essence is to completely treat the foundation with bitumen (mastic), which, penetrating into cracks and gaps, prevents moisture from entering the building.

The process is very simple, having purchased bitumen in the form of a bar on the market, you need to heat it in a container until it becomes liquid. Next, apply the bitumen in several layers to the foundation (2-4 layers will be enough), remember: do not let the bitumen cool in the container, otherwise when it is reheated to a liquid state, it will lose some of its properties.

Tip: you should add a little oil waste to hot bitumen.

As an option, you can purchase ready-made mastic with increased moisture-resistant qualities. This mastic generally does not need to be heated and the number of applied layers is reduced to two.

strip foundation treated with bitumen

• Simplicity, easy to handle without outside help.
• Availability.
• Price.

• Speed. The need to apply multiple layers is time consuming.
• Fragility. After 5-10 years (depending on the mastic), re-treatment of the foundation is necessary.
• Mediocre water resistance. Even high-quality treatment will not provide complete protection from moisture.

Waterproofing using roll method (roofing felt)

This method can be used either independently or as additional protection for bitumen insulation.

It is customary to take roofing felt (technoelast and isoelast) as a basis. The process itself is similar to covering a roof. From the beginning, the surface of the foundation is covered with mastic (the continuous application of bitumen is not so important here). Afterwards, the roofing material is heated using a gasoline burner and presses against the bitumen-treated foundation. The joints of the roofing material are overlapped (10-15 cm) on each other and processed with a burner.

Tip: if there is no access to the burner, you can use a special mastic with adhesive capabilities, although this option is less reliable.

Heat treatment of roofing felt

• Availability.
• Price.
• Good durability (up to 50 years).

• It is impossible to cope with this work alone.
• When using roofing felt, the most reliable water resistance is achieved. The solution is to use more expensive materials, but this requires additional, more thorough treatment with mastic (this negates the plus in price).

Plaster waterproofing

The method is quite simple and serves both as a waterproofing for the foundation and as a way to level it.

Water-resistant components are added to the plaster mixture, and it is applied using a spatula to the foundation. In order for the mixture to stick to the foundation, a putty mesh is attached to it using dowels.

Treatment of concrete with plaster

• Price of materials.
• Simplicity and high speed performance of work.

• Low hydraulic stability.
• Possibility of cracks.
• Short life (up to 15 years).

Liquid rubber is sprayed onto the foundation, providing excellent waterproofing. If you are waterproofing the foundation with your own hands, then the same type of liquid rubber (“Elastomix” and “Elastopaz”) will do.

Before application, the surface of the foundation is treated with a primer. Then you need to decide on the type of tire.

1. “Elastomix” - applied to the foundation in one layer and hardens within two hours. Once opened, the container containing Elastomix cannot be stored further.
2. "Elastopaz" - the price is slightly lower than for "Elastomix", but it is applied in two layers. After use, the remaining mixture must be stored.

Rubber is applied using a brush or roller; if possible, use a sprayer, this will significantly speed up the process.

The average consumption of liquid rubber is 3kg/1m2.

Application of liquid rubber

• Excellent waterproofing.
• Durability.
• Does not require special skills.

• Relatively expensive tires.
• Without a sprayer the process is quite long.
• It is not possible to get liquid rubber everywhere.

Penetrating waterproofing

After cleaning it from dust and wetting it with water, a special solution (“Aquatro”, “Penetron”, etc.) is applied to the foundation using a sprayer, which penetrates 10-15 cm into the structure of the foundation. The solution must be applied several times.

Spraying a solution in a protective suit

• Effective waterproofing.
• Durability.
• Easy to apply.
• Possibility of use in processing from the inside of a building (processing the basement)

• Price.
• Low prevalence of the mixture.

Clay castle

Quite simple and reliable way hold back moisture. A trench about 50-60 cm deep is dug around the foundation, the bottom of which is covered with a layer (5 cm) of crushed stone or gravel. Next, the clay is laid and compacted in several stages. Clay serves as a buffer against water and does not allow it to pass under the building.

Almost the only advantage of this foundation is its simplicity. This method can be used for small outbuildings and wells. For a residential building, it can only be used as an addition to the existing waterproofing.

Screen waterproofing

Screen waterproofing option using slabs

One of the new ways to protect the foundation is to nail mats filled with clay to the foundation using dowels or a construction gun. The mats should be laid with an overlap of 10-15cm. Sometimes, instead of mats with clay, you can find clay concrete panels on the market, but their joints will require additional processing. In fact, it is a modern analogue of a clay castle.

Like the previous type of foundation waterproofing, this method is considered only for non-residential buildings. Or combined with other waterproofing options.

Video waterproofing the foundation with roofing felt:

Which type is better to choose for a particular foundation?

Waterproofing monolithic slab foundation may contain combined system vertical and horizontal protection from moisture. But if at the construction stage the possibility of horizontal insulation was stifled, then roll-bitumen waterproofing or insulation using liquid rubber is best suited. They are more preferable due to good penetration into possible gaps between the foundation slabs.

When waterproofing a strip-type foundation, preference should be given to bitumen, penetrating or plaster waterproofing.

Waterproofing of pile-screw and columnar foundation may require additional processing in addition to the proposed methods metal parts foundation with anti-corrosion solution. Although each foundation should be approached individually.

• A combination of different methods can be very useful.
• You should not skimp on waterproofing material; remember, the stingy pays twice.
• Before choosing the type of foundation, if you are unsure, it is better to consult a specialist.
• It is worth thinking about what type of waterproofing method will be used even at the stage of pouring the foundation (this will reduce further costs and simplify the process).
• When using the bitumen method, you can do without caulking small cracks; the bitumen itself will perfectly penetrate and seal them.
• If necessary, using the roll method, you can apply several layers of roofing felt, one on top, and do not forget to make a bitumen layer between them.

Insulating a building from moisture is a very important part in any construction work, after which the building will be firmly, reliably and efficiently insulated from rain moisture and ice, and, of course, groundwater. Waterproofing is even more necessary if you plan to build a room where water can easily enter. The better the waterproofing, the more durable the house will be. With good waterproofing you will never see small insects, fungus and mold on the wall, especially in rooms that are below ground level.

Waterproofing the foundation with your own hands is a procedure that can be done without outside help, but we must not forget that this is a responsible job and should not be approached carelessly. You must have certain skills and abilities, and you also need to have information about all the nuances of the territory, and, of course, you need to follow safety precautions.

We will tell and explain six different options.

• Base processing
• Processing the foundation slab
• Monolith processing
• Balcony treatment

General rules for construction work

Now applied various options strengthening the foundation:

• Pasting– pasted over with rolled material, which is treated with an adhesive composition. It can be self-adhesive, require heating, or fusing.
• Impregnating– treated with a composition that penetrates well into the soil. It fills the capillaries in the material and creates a layer of several tens of centimeters.
• Coating- treatment with a composition that has high moisture resistance. For example, polymers or bitumen mastic.
• Mountable– it is carried out using geomembranes with spikes made of polymers, which are assembled into a washable, moisture-proof surface.

Using these technologies, it is necessary to protect not only the foundation, but also adjacent structures:

• Ground floor
• Floor and walls in the basement
• Foundation in foundation

The waterproofing layer in any building must be solid and not damaged. Preferably completely flat. Sometimes they install another one waterproofing layer from the back of the structure, which takes the main blow. This is done if there is a danger of groundwater flooding. To avoid this problem, the building is protected with a blind area. Surface water is everywhere, so this part is installed everywhere. There are no exceptions in this case.

There is another problem. It's called groundwater. In areas they are not always located at the same level as the foundation. The question is where they are and how deep. If they are located higher than the foundation, then in addition to waterproofing, you also need to carry out drainage works. This procedure is necessary to ensure that the water is as far away from the building as possible. It also lowers the groundwater level and thereby reduces the pressure on the foundation of the building. Without drainage this cannot be achieved. Regardless of the above, you still need to take into account chemical composition water. In some areas we have to deal with harmful groundwater. This water has a harmful effect on. Based on this, all materials must withstand aggressive environments.

Base processing

The outside of the basement must be protected. Sometimes even up to the first floor level. This is done because frost sometimes remains on the blind area. Based on this, in addition to all the work, the base needs to be lined with frost-resistant and moisture-resistant finishing materials. Don't forget! If you use high-quality products, follow technology, and don’t be lazy - this will be the key to the longevity of your home!

The ground floor continues the foundation of the wall. The base is the top of the foundation; it is approximately 2m above ground level. But in some cases, the floor can be quite high from the ground and create another floor that is half underground and half inside.

Taking into account that the base continues the foundation, more time needs to be spent on insulating them. You should not allow the outside to get wet and capillary moisture to pass down. We must not forget that moisture can rise to the second floor due to various factors. Moisture evaporates from the wall, so there can be dampness on two floors. Therefore, make reliable insulation!

There is another option for finishing the base - vertical insulation. The point of this isolation is to ensure that the entire system works as a single unit. For this purpose they most often use liquid waterproofing. Using molten rubber, you can obtain a water-repellent coating from a monolith without seams. This material is very easy to apply and works well in combination with other materials. Therefore, it can be used for both brick and concrete (monolithic or block)

Processing the foundation slab

To install it, you need to dig a pit. After the measures have been taken, the block is laid on well-trodden sand and crushed stone. The thickness of this embankment is approximately 35 cm, the block is from 25 to 45 cm. This foundation can be made of a monolith or prefabricated. If you have a monolith, then fill the formwork with concrete with a pre-installed reinforcement frame. In another case, the base is made from ready-made reinforced concrete structures, for example, road slabs. For any installation option, you should know that groundwater must be removed!

Block insulation is solved in several ways. Each option has its advantages and disadvantages. Nowadays the coating option is mainly used. This type is very easy, after the work you will receive best result and durable material. Most main problem In finishing a block foundation, the slab below is insulated because it has a large area. In this case, the work is carried out by wrapping it with a roll or coating. Several years ago, roofing felt was used in construction. In this option, bitumen was applied to a cardboard base. This method was short-lived because the paper base quickly deteriorated. The material bent easily and also did not tolerate sudden changes in temperature and ultraviolet radiation. The bitumen previously used in its production was also not very durable. As a result, everything quickly cracked, and the waterproofing barrier lost its tightness. Modern materials such as rubemast and stekloizol are made using fiberglass or fiberglass. They are much stronger than their older counterparts. Now bitumen contains modified additives. Because of this, it has become elastic, flexible, and can withstand any temperature.

Monolith processing

You can achieve the desired result in different ways:

• Coating with mastic– Suitable for those who do not want to spend a lot of money. This option is very cheap. Although it only lasts for a short time. Such waterproofing quickly deteriorates during use and leaks, as it cannot withstand heavy loads. But the main condition is that it can only be used if you have absolutely dry and flat surface. You should definitely know that coating waterproofing Even in the initial stages, it is damaged when construction debris remains, for example, such as stone and glass. On the street side it needs to be insulated with rolled geotextiles or a brick pressure wall. But this option is quite expensive and takes a lot of effort.
• Spray processing– very easy to apply thanks to the convenient sprayer. The good thing about this method is that it exactly repeats all the unevenness of the foundation. There is almost no need to pre-prepare the surface. This technology is more expensive than others. When using this technology, it is necessary to reinforce it with geotextile material, which provides additional protection.

Processing of foundations from component parts

This object is most often processed together with the grillage. It is extremely difficult to waterproof the components, because processing takes too much effort and time. Before installation, the wooden foundation is impregnated and treated with a protective solution. But don’t forget, when you install a wooden foundation, it is not recommended to do drainage to remove water, since wooden poles, which are pre-treated, do not rot in water, but only gain stability. Just what you need!

And finally, final stage manufacturing strip foundation. First you need to remove the formwork and carry out the final processing. So, you can understand that the foundation has hardened well by the appearance of cracks or small crevices between it. When the board moves away from the top of the foundation, it means that it drives away water, and this is good sign. After this, remove the formwork. First you need to remove the auxiliary parts. Then you need to pull out all the pins and bars. Then use a hammer to tap the boundaries of the foundation. Don’t forget, the foundation is not completely dry yet, it is very easy to damage!

Balcony treatment

In a modern metropolis, almost every building has a balcony. At the base, as a rule, lies iron concrete block which is exposed to an aggressive environment. And of course, someday this will lead to destruction. And no one needs such consequences as dampness and mold. Over time, all the problems from the balcony smoothly “float” into the apartment. This occurs when water seeps through the capillaries of the concrete slab.

The main problem is that outside in winter minus temperature. When there is a lot of moisture on the balcony, the water freezes, expands and bursts, destroying the slab on the balcony through its actions. Judging by construction standards, the surface of the balcony should have a bevel of 2-3 degrees. But in reality, builders often do not comply with this. Moreover, there are cases when there is a reverse slope. Because of this rainwater that falls on the balcony does not flow from it, but lingers and sometimes even flows towards the apartment, thereby destroying concrete surface. Thanks to this, the slab does not last even for several seasons! Open balcony cannot be isolated from low temperatures. But if you can’t fence it off, you can prevent it! Namely, it is necessary to prevent water from entering the concrete.

The best solution to this problem is waterproofing using bitumen. Before you start correcting this error, you need to determine the slope of the block and if you need to cover it cement screed in order to obtain a slope of 2-3 degrees. Pay more attention to cracks and joints that have already appeared (those in contact with the wall with a parapet or metal rods). If you don't remove them, the chips will only get bigger! These places must be carefully glued with fiberglass.

Waterproofing works on balconies in the most extreme conditions compared to other uses of this material. But the loggia is waterproofed only if it is completely glazed. This procedure is carried out with waterproofing of a vertical partition (made of brick or concrete). Of course, the work must be carried out efficiently, or you will not get the desired result. To be good result It is necessary to install not only a double-layer glass unit, but also to seal the seam and the outer cornice very well. But first, you need to prepare the surface.

To do this, you need to dismantle the coating and remove dirty areas with a hammer drill. After this, the concrete must be cleaned from construction debris with a stiff brush. If the fittings stick out, you need to remove the rust from it, and then apply a protective compound. After these procedures, the concrete block is restored using special compounds for quick repair. Therefore, we advise you to choose the highest quality materials and spare no effort, otherwise your efforts will not be justified. And remember, the miser pays twice!!!

So we've come to the end. We wish you a quick construction, and not a hundred-year “epic”, so that everything works out for you the first time and you get high-quality waterproofing!

In order to give the foundation of any structure strength and durability, it is necessary to take care in advance to decide how to treat the foundation from moisture.

Unfortunately, many modern technological structural materials have a porous structure, which is why they are characterized by the presence of a hypertrophied ability to absorb and retain excess moisture. This property, naturally, negatively affects both the strength of the foundation itself and the entire structure.

The most resistant structural materials, including concrete and building stone, begin to crack from the inside under the influence of moisture.

There are several basic technologies that protect the foundation. Each of them has a number of functional advantages and disadvantages, which will be discussed below.

Technologies: how to protect the structural foundation from getting wet

Protecting the foundation from moisture can be done by installing waterproofing. Its type is selected depending on the functional characteristics of the structure being built, the climatic characteristics of the territory and the underlying surface, which will become the basis for the house.

There are two types of waterproofing design:

• horizontal;
• vertical.

The latter is mounted on the front side of the base of the structure. It is applied starting from the sidewalk or plinth design. This is how you can protect the foundation from the destructive effects of soil water.

The first, horizontal option for installing waterproofing is done so that moisture does not penetrate into the basement area and destroy its walls. In addition, treating the foundation from moisture also protects it from the penetration of air currents, creating an unfavorable microclimate in the room.

The second design option, which will be discussed below, does not have this drawback.

Next we will talk about how to protect the foundation from moisture using hydrophobization. This is the process of processing the structure of the base of a structure using special means - organic compounds silicon, which must be diluted with water. Water repellents are not only high-quality moisture-resistant materials, but also reliable protection of the foundation from dirt and dust.

Using this method of processing the base of structures has the following advantages:

1. walls that have been treated with high quality using water repellents are resistant to graffiti - you will not have to spend additional money on repairs;
2. significant frost resistance of structures;
3. moisture-repellent agents “keep mold and fungi away” from the walls; the original color of the building materials is preserved;
4. water repellents can be applied even to a damp base.

The protective mechanism is characterized by the fact that after the procedure of covering the foundation with water repellents, a special moisture-resistant coating is formed, a kind of thin polymer film, which is tightly packed into the pores, protecting them from the ingress of natural moisture. In addition, insulating the foundation from moisture is also very durable.

Processing technology: specifics of the procedure

This procedure can be carried out using already ready-made solutions or their concentrate, which can be purchased at any hardware store.

In order to apply a special construction mixture to a working cart, you will need quite accessible tools:

1. wide brush;
2. standard roller;
3. spray.

Any of these devices will perfectly cope with the task of treating the base of the structure being built with a waterproofing agent.

If the protection of the foundation plinth from moisture is carried out using special concentrates, then first you should carefully study the accompanying construction mixture detailed instructions, which clearly states exactly how to dilute the product.

You can begin working with the solution immediately, however, do not forget about preliminary cleaning of the foundation from all contaminants, dust, and other harmful deposits.

In case you find based on building structure signs of rotting or mold, then it is necessary to treat the surface using antiseptics and special chemical compounds. If the walls are covered with loose plaster, they must be cleaned using mechanical movements.

The water repellent substance must be carefully evenly applied to the foundation until a characteristic shine appears. If the base material is characterized by a high degree of porosity, then the mixture is applied in two layers.

It is better to apply the water repellent in warm, dry weather - this way you will maximize the protective effect of the mixture.

It is important that a moisture-repellent mixture is the most acceptable answer to the question of how to treat the foundation from moisture, if such grounds exist;

• construction concrete;
• wooden;
• metal.

Steel and iron elements, in addition to protection from moisture, will be “protected” from corrosion processes, and this, in turn, will have a positive effect on the strength of the foundation as a whole.

What are the hydraulic components of protective water-repellent mixtures?

In order to increase the durability and strength of the structure and protect it from unwanted moisture, special active additives are also used. They have a positive effect, among other things, on the frost resistance of the structure as a whole.

They have a good effect on the process of laying structures made of concrete, and also increase its non-delamination and viscosity.

With the use of such elements, it is possible to achieve that the degree of moisture absorption by the foundation is reduced by half. This is quite enough to avoid the use of any additional technical devices or chemicals.

For the solution, it is important to follow the dosage indicated on its packaging - this will help achieve the optimal waterproofing effect. The additive is placed directly into a concrete mixer or into a structure that acts as a container in which the building mixture is diluted.

Moisture protection of the base of the structure being built is prerequisite that the building will last for many years and be strong, reliable and sustainable.

Conclusion

When cold weather sets in, most builders seriously think about how to optimally protect the foundations of buildings from the process of exposure to a humid environment. This question is especially relevant if the base is made of mineral raw materials - brick, natural stone, and is also covered with a thick layer of special finishing plaster.

There are several main ways to solve this problem, the main one of which is considered to be the use of so-called water repellents - substances that have a powerful water-repellent effect. Such products are affordable and really effective. They are easy to apply and last for a long period of operation of any building.

Such compositions have an excellent ability to penetrate quite deeply - up to 20 mm - into structural building materials, and at the same time provide reliable protection from getting wet.

This technique is appropriate as an alternative to rather expensive complexes for facade insulation, and, at the same time, helps to permanently solve the problem associated with forever damp walls in new houses.

Moisture-proof impregnation is applied to the foundation in several layers using such special tools as a spray or a wide brush. The surface must sit for 24 hours, after which it acquires hydrophobic characteristics.

It is easy to treat the base of a structure with special means yourself - it does not require additional skills or complex technical devices from the builder. In addition to the fact that the water repellent protects the foundation from moisture, it also plays the role of an antiseptic, which protects the structural base of the structure from harmful biochemical agents.

Waterproofing is what will help the foundation last a long time and provide the house with strength, reliability and stability