How to restore an old cast iron bathtub. Restoring bathtub enamel with your own hands Means for restoring bathtub coating

The unpresentability of old plumbing is not a reason to replace it. There are several effective and inexpensive methods for enamel restoration. In order for the updated “jacuzzi” to serve for several more years, it is necessary to adhere to the restoration technology and follow the basic recommendations for caring for the bathtub coating.

Restoring an old bath: choosing a method

A new snow-white bathtub loses its attractiveness over time - the surface becomes rough, the gloss disappears, yellowness and smudges appear. There is a need to replace plumbing fixtures. However, a full renovation and purchase of a new bath is an expensive undertaking. It is much easier to restore the coating of steel or cast iron yourself.

The three most popular methods for renovating an old bathroom are:

two-component enamel treatment;
“fill-in bathtub” made of acrylic;
installation of the liner.

Each method has its own characteristics.

Bathtub enamel - affordable option restorations, effectively eliminating roughness, yellowness, rust and minor scratches. Enamel will not be suitable if there are large defects: peeling of the coating, chips and deep scratches.

Among the main advantages of the coating old bath enamel include:

low cost;
the enamel layer does not hide the volume of the bathtub;
To carry out restoration, it is not necessary to dismantle the siphon and tiles along the sides of the bowl.

Disadvantages of the method:

If the enamel is applied poorly, brush marks may remain;
drying time - 3-4 days;
does not mask major damage;
coating service life is up to 5 years.

Self-leveling acrylic applied to the walls without a brush by evenly dripping. Using liquid acrylic has a number of advantages:

the updated bathtub will not turn yellow over time;
coating is resistant to household chemicals and the formation of corrosion;
the material is suitable for the restoration of various bathtubs;
no smudges form on the surface;
restoration does not require dismantling the old bathtub;
acrylic does not allow air to pass through, so the coating is smooth without air bubbles;
long service life - about 15 years;
acrylic coating is resistant to mechanical damage and chips;
The high thermal insulation of acrylic retains heat and the water does not cool down quickly.

Arguments against the “fill bath”:

Before processing, you will need to dismantle the drain;
acrylic repeats the factory irregularities of the bowl;
the coating does not tolerate very high temperatures;
long drying period - 4 days.

Important! If you use low-quality glass and do not follow the finishing technology, bubbles may form, which will subsequently lead to deformation of the new coating.

Installing an acrylic liner into an old-style bathtub - the most expensive method of restoration. As a rule, the insert is made according to individual order according to the plumbing parameters. It is not advisable to carry out this restoration method yourself - installation errors reduce the service life and ease of use of the bathtub.

Advantages of a “bath in a bath”:

quick installation;
the ability to hide chips and other defects;
The liner has all the positive characteristics of acrylic: smoothness of the coating, heat capacity, ease of maintenance.

Disadvantages of this recovery method:

high cost of the liner;
before restoration old bath, you will need to remove the tiles adjacent to the plumbing;
reducing the useful volume of the bowl;
Difficulty doing the work yourself.

Step-by-Step Guide to Enameling a Bathtub

High-quality enamel is the basis for the durability of the bathtub

Particular attention should be paid to the choice of enamel. Experts recommend using specially developed products:

Required tools and materials

To carry out restoration work, you should prepare:

electric drill and attachment (brush) for cleaning old coating;
abrasive;
oxalic acid;
two-component enamel;
surface degreasing agent;
a brush for applying enamel with a width of 7 cm - it is better to choose a medium-hard tool with natural bristles;
respirator or gas mask;
masking tape, polyethylene;
cleaning powder.

Surface preparation

Before you restore an old bathtub at home, you need to remove the old coating:

Procedure for treating a bathtub with enamel

After degreasing the bath, you can begin applying enamel. The work can be roughly divided into several stages.

As a rule, to achieve a lasting result you need to apply 3-4 layers. Installation of the piping and operation of the bath is possible in 4-5 days.

Important! It is advisable to carry out restoration in the warm, dry season. During the drying period, the windows must be opened. There should be no children or pets in the room.

How to update a bathtub with acrylic

The technology for restoring bathrooms with glass acrylic is in many ways similar to enamel treatment. Surface preparation occurs in the same way as in the previous method. Next you will need to dilute the liquid acrylic:

Add hardener to the acrylic container and mix well.
Leave the mixture for 10 minutes and mix again.

After cleaning the bathtub and preparing the glass, the plumbing is restored:

The drying time of glass depends on the composition of the material and the air temperature in the room.

Installing an insert is the fastest way to restore

If there is significant damage, re-enamelling or acrylic treatment may not give the expected result. To avoid having to remove the old bathtub, the restoration will have to be done using a liner.

To select a ready-made or order a pallet, you need to take five measurements correctly:

full length - the distance between the edges of the sides of the bathtub;
internal length - maximum length inside the bowl;
the width of the container near the drain;
the width of the bathtub in the back area;
depth of the bath - to calculate above the drain, place a flat bar across the bowl and measure the distance to the bottom.

Installation procedure:

Important! Installation of plumbing fittings must be done very carefully. An overtightened tightening bolt can cause a crack in the liner, and the accumulation of water between the coatings is a consequence of insufficiently strong fasteners.

When performing a comprehensive restoration of plumbing, it is advisable to replace the legs of the old bathtub. You can purchase a ready-made kit in a store or make a support from metal profiles on one's own.

Correction of minor bathtub defects

Single defects in the bathtub can be locally masked without resorting to a complete restoration of the plumbing. Recommendations from specialists will help restore damaged areas in a short time.

Through holes. You can fill such a crack with epoxy resin, and apply a reinforcing mixture on top. To restore the bathtub you will need a special repair kit.

Chips and scratches. Procedure for eliminating the defect:

Treat the area with a rust converter, then clean the surface with powder.
Degrease the surface with acetone.
Coat the chip with car putty and sand it.
Paint the area with paint.

Cleaning the bathtub without damaging the coating

Careful treatment and regular cleaning of the bathtub cover will help maintain aesthetics and attractiveness. appearance plumbers. Just follow these simple tips:

Enamel and acrylic coating are susceptible to abrasive substances, so you need to choose a “mild” cleaning agent. It is important to exclude detergents that contain ammonia, powder, chlorine, acetone and other aggressive components.
After cleaning, the surface should be rinsed with plenty of water.
It is not advisable to bathe pets in the bathtub - sharp claws can leave visible scratches. Cannot be placed in a bowl metal cans and buckets.
The dangerous enemy of acrylic is rust on the faucet and metal elements plumbers. The acrylic surface absorbs yellowness, which is subsequently very difficult to remove. Therefore, education should not be allowed limescale and wipe the plumbing fixtures dry more often. Water should not drip from the tap - drain hole will quickly begin to rust.

Full restoration of a bathtub is a rather complex process that requires certain skills from the performer. In the absence of experience, the likelihood of errors is high. It is better for novice craftsmen to use the poured acrylic method for restoration.

Liquid acrylic – modern material, with which you can carry out high-quality restoration of the bathtub with your own hands. It consists of a base having a fairly high density and a hardener. Can be used for restoration of steel, cast iron and acrylic bathtubs.

Materials and tools

To restore the bathtub, you will need bulk liquid acrylic, cleaning and degreasing products for plumbing fixtures, and soda. Please note that liquid acrylic is sold in containers designed for bathtub sizes - 1.2, 1.5 or 1.7 m.

You need to prepare a tool for work:

grinder;
drill;
whisk attachment;
pliers;
sandpaper of various grain sizes;
rubber spatula;
respirator;
vacuum cleaner;
sponge;
gloves;
flashlight.

When using a drill to sand the surface of the bathtub, you will need a special attachment.
Note: a hair dryer and a utility knife will be useful for removing non-factory enamel if the bathtub has already been restored with it.
You also need polyethylene to protect the floor and walls (you can use rags or newspapers).

Preparing the bath

The appearance and service life of the applied coating will depend on the quality of preparation. First, the overflow and drain are removed. Using a grinder or a drill with a grinding attachment, you need to carefully treat the surface of the bathtub. To do this, use sandpaper to rough work 40-N or 32-N (according to GOST 3647-80). Emery will help remove the formed water raids. The surface after grinding must be rough to ensure good adhesion liquid acrylic.

Note: non-factory enamel, previously applied to restore the bathtub, is removed with a stationery knife after heating with a hairdryer.

The bathtub needs to be cleaned and any remaining debris removed. Then the surface is treated with a plumbing cleaner - the poured product must be spread with a sponge over the entire surface of the bathtub, including the installation location of the removed overflow.

The bath is washed again and left to dry. After drying, proceed to the next important stage works - degreasing. Soda is poured into the bath and thoroughly rubbed over the entire surface with coarse sandpaper.

Perhaps degreasing will need to be done not once, but two or three times. You must work with gloves. Then the bath is thoroughly washed with a stream of water from the shower.

Before starting the next stage, you need to remove the siphon.

The installation site of the siphon must be cleaned, degreased and rinsed from soda residues.

The mixer and shower are covered with a bag and secured with tape - water should not get on the applied layer of liquid acrylic until it dries completely. The tiles and shelves above the bathtub are cleaned of dust particles with a cloth. Do not allow sanding dust to get on the acrylic.

After completing this stage, the bath should be thoroughly dried with a hairdryer. Particular attention is paid to places where water can collect: the joints of the tiles and the bathtub, under the side, which is installed at the junction of the tiles and the bathtub. It is better to remove the rim and carry out the restoration of the bathtub without it. The cement joints at the junction with the bathroom can be dried well with a hairdryer.

To eliminate defects in factory enamel (cracks, chips), use quick-drying automotive putty.

The composition is stirred and applied to the damaged areas with a rubber spatula, after which it is allowed to dry.

While the putty dries, cover the floor under the bathtub and the tiles at the joints with polyethylene or newspapers, which are secured with tape.

This way, when pouring liquid acrylic, it will not spoil floor and wall tiles.
After the putty has dried, these places are covered with fine sandpaper. Use a vacuum cleaner to remove dust particles from the bathtub.

Use a degreasing agent (acetone) to wipe the areas where cracks and chips have been putty. You should also wipe the installation areas of the overflow and siphon with acetone. Place a container under the drain hole (you can use a cut plastic bottle). Excess liquid acrylic will drain into this container.

Coating

After completing the preparatory work, they begin to prepare liquid acrylic. The hardener is added to the material in parts and thoroughly mixed using a drill with a whisk attachment.

It is necessary to achieve complete mixing of the two components, not forgetting about the material in the corners and at the bottom of the jar with liquid acrylic. Otherwise, the layer of applied acrylic will dry unevenly. You need to stir the mixture for 10 minutes.
Important! Don't forget about the pot life ready mixture which is indicated on the packaging. During this time, you need to completely complete the work.
Before pouring the composition is allowed to stand for 5-10 minutes. To work you will need plastic container, into which acrylic is poured. You can use a trimmed and well-wiped hardener bottle. The work is performed wearing medical gloves.
Note: adding coloring paste will allow you to obtain the desired color of the composition. Color paste by weight should not exceed 3% of the total mass of the composition.
The composition is poured around the perimeter of the bath from top to bottom.

Going lower, help yourself with a rubber spatula, which is used to rub the acrylic into the surface of the bathtub. Having achieved complete coverage with liquid acrylic, use a spatula to make zigzag movements along the bottom of the bath. Then the composition is leveled with even movements from the wall towards the drain.

The bath is left for 5 minutes. Turn off the light and use a flashlight to check the surface of the bath for defects or irregularities (smudges) that need to be leveled with a spatula.

Important! Air bubbles may have formed when mixing the composition. To remove these bubbles, the surface of the bath is quickly blown with a hairdryer at low speeds.
After 10 minutes, use a flashlight to check the surface again. The bathtub can be used 24-48 hours after complete drying. Until this point, the bathroom must be closed. The drying time of the composition depends on technical characteristics material and temperature conditions in the room.
Note: Some modern liquid acrylics take 12-16 hours to dry.

Result of the work

As a result of the work done, you will receive a completely restored bathtub with a beautiful appearance, which is guaranteed to last at least 10 years. The bathtub must be washed after each use by special means for caring for acrylic, dishwashing detergents or liquid soap.

Pros and cons

Advantages of bathtub restoration with liquid acrylic:

long service life;
beautiful appearance;
smooth surface;
beautiful performance characteristics, primarily mechanical strength;
possibility of repeated restoration in the future.

A bathtub after restoration will be practically in no way inferior to a new bathtub.
The disadvantages of this technology include:

the long time required for the surface to dry completely;
a specific smell when applying and drying liquid acrylic;
the need to purchase bath care products.

Tricks at work

A high-quality bathtub surface will be obtained by applying the composition in an even, thick layer. Acrylic should flow down on its own. Determine by eye the middle of the side slopes and pour a second portion of the composition onto them. The remaining material is poured to the bottom. This way the entire surface of the bath will be covered with a thick layer of acrylic.

With proper care, an acrylic bowl will last for decades, but sooner or later the coating still loses its gloss and whiteness. You can repair an acrylic bathtub yourself, just know about in different ways gloss restoration, their real effectiveness and work technique. First things first.

How to repair case damage

Acrylic bathtubs have extremely low resistance to mechanical damage. If the need for repair is caused by damage to the bowl from an accidentally dropped object, the integrity of the base should be restored before restoring the coating. Please note that the actions described below are necessary only if the fiberglass layer is damaged, there are chips or delaminations. If the base remains intact, you can use a regular repair kit.

So, first of all, remove all the broken fragments and carefully inspect the edges of the hole. You need to make sure that no separated scales have formed along the edges. Otherwise, it may be necessary to remove the exfoliated layers; it is better to tear off fragments from the outside.

To repair the base, you need glass mat with a density of 200 g/m 2 or more. If you are not sure about the presence of impregnation between the glass fibers, it is better to burn the glass mat flaps in a flame gas burner. The binder is a two-component epoxy glue; a budget EAF will suffice.

The essence of the repair is to apply 5-7 layers of fiberglass on a cleaned and degreased surface around the puncture site. First, glue is applied with a brush to the edges of the hole with an indentation of 3-4 cm, then a piece of glass mat is placed and carefully smoothed, the size of which is 2-3 cm larger than the hole in each direction.

Each subsequent patch is glued after partial polymerization of the resin in the previous layer. To speed up the process, it is recommended to increase the concentration of the hardener by 2-2.5 times, so the break between applying patches will be about 15-20 minutes. The size of each subsequent patch should be 3-4 cm larger than the previous one. TO further work the bath will be ready after complete polymerization of the resin, that is, the next day. Before restoring the coating, the puncture site is leveled with the composition of a standard acrylic repair kit and sanded flush with the general surface.

Is simple painting possible?

There are only two options to restore the shine and whiteness of the acrylic coating. The simplest one is epoxy paint aerosol type marked Ceramics. This method has a right to life, especially considering the high cost of bulk acrylic and the complexity of its application.

The main disadvantage of painting is the inability of a thin layer to hide surface defects. The bathtub will have to be sanded for a long time and tediously, gradually increasing the grain index and removing large scratches and chips. Naturally, this should be allowed by the thickness of the acrylic layer - cheap bathtubs have polymer coating about 0.5-0.7 mm and it most likely will not be possible to restore them by painting.

Otherwise, everything is simple: the entire surface is cleaned to remove gloss, then wiped with acetone to degrease. Next, paint is sprayed from a distance of 40-45 cm with one or two thin layers at intervals of 20-30 minutes. When spraying, do not allow drips to form; if they do appear, they need to be blotted with a clean foam sponge and painted over again. You need to work exclusively in a respirator and prevent the occurrence of open flames in the room.

One aerosol can is enough for 1.8-2 m2 of surface. However, when calculating paint consumption, you need to take a margin of about 50%. Firstly, one way or another you will be forced to eliminate mistakes and painting defects, and secondly, you will be left with a “repair kit” without a difference in color.

How does liquid acrylic work?

In short, acrylic polymer is the same epoxy resin, tinted white. A special feature of the material is its high adhesion, including to glossy surfaces. Despite this, preparation for restoration must be very thorough.

First of all, temperature and humidity conditions are important. The drier the air in the room, the better, and the presence of splashes or drops should be completely eliminated. Optimal temperature for applying acrylic - 25 ºС. It is at this temperature that the epoxy composition acquires the most optimal viscosity for application without a brush.

The difference in fluidity with a change in temperature of even a few degrees can be very significant. At 28-30 ºС the layer will be too thin, and at temperatures below 23 ºС normal polymerization will not occur and the coating will not acquire the required qualities. Naturally, the bath and the air in the room must have the same temperature.

Self-leveling acrylic loses its stickiness after 4-6 hours and completely polymerizes after two days. Until this point, the room needs to maintain optimal temperature regime, and in the first hours after application - any in a convenient way prevent dust from settling.

Preparing the surface for restoration

In any case, you need to knock off the gloss from the surface of the bowl. This is done by hand sanding using waterproof sandpaper. Start processing with a grain size of 200 grit, then increase it by 100-150 grit every 2-3 stages. Sanding ends with a 600 grit treatment; after this treatment, the coating becomes matte white and is practically free of defects. Each time the grain size increases, the bath must be rinsed with water to get rid of larger abrasive particles.

At the next stage, the largest surface defects, chips and scratches are eliminated. For this you can use either hard-plastic automotive putty or a repair kit for acrylic bathtubs. The latter is more preferable when it is planned to restore gloss and color by polishing rather than pouring a new coating. In this case, the difference in whiteness will definitely be visible, although not particularly strong.

After sealing defects on the surface, these places are re-cleaned until the surface is leveled. Before continuing work, the bath must be rinsed with plenty of warm water, completely washing off the white dust, and then dismantling the plumbing fixtures and removing any remaining dirt in places previously covered by drain nets.

Cleaning and degreasing

To restore an acrylic bathtub, they sell special kits that include 30-50 grams of one-component polymer, abrasives and polishing paste. Special attention deserve a cleaner and primer in bulk acrylic kits. The latter must be applied immediately before pouring the polymer, but it makes sense to use a cleaning agent only if you have not resorted to grinding.

To degrease the surface, you can use acetone or solvent 646. Petroleum-based products should not be used, they are not very friendly to acrylate polymers. Do not forget that the surface must be absolutely clean and dry before applying the coating.

Application of polymer

Before pouring a new coating, it must first be prepared. The resin is mixed with the hardener in the proportion established by the manufacturer. It is recommended to add approximately 80-90% of the recommended dose of hardener to maintain fluidity for more for a long time. This will allow you to distribute the composition as evenly as possible without using a brush.

The polymer should only be mixed by hand; using a drill or mixer will result in numerous air bubbles being drawn into the liquid mass. Liquid acrylic must be diluted immediately and in full, using a clean, dry container. After this, the composition is poured into another container of the same volume, this is done to avoid areas with uneven mixing in the corners and near the walls.

The empty container is placed under the drain hole of the bathtub, and acrylic is poured from another into a thin strip along the sides. It is recommended to first disperse the composition with a brush with natural bristles and thoroughly wet the sides with flaps to prevent the expensive epoxy from overflowing outward. Subsequently, it will be enough to pour the composition onto the innermost edge, achieving the most uniform spreading along the walls.

When the entire composition is spilled, you need to wait 15-20 minutes and collect the remaining polymer that has flowed through the drain hole, replacing it with an empty container. A new portion of the polymer is poured over the sides in those places where the layer is not thick enough and there are gaps. The procedure must be repeated until the resin stops flowing. At the same time, you need to monitor places where uneven thick streaks could potentially form.

No matter how hard you try, you will not get a perfectly smooth coating with factory quality. To improve the result, you can lightly spray the still fresh polymer with the flame of a gas burner immediately after all the acrylic has been poured over the surface. Sharp heating helps to get rid of the remaining entrained gases and smooth the surface as efficiently as possible.

After drying, the bathtub will still need polishing, but not as labor-intensive. The polishing paste should be applied in small portions and rubbed over the surface with a fiber cloth. Polishing is carried out with wide circular movements; periodically you need to add a fresh portion of paste to the napkin.

As you can see, repairing an acrylic bathtub is not an easy undertaking, but it is definitely easier and cheaper than installing a new bowl or liner.

We tell you how to update an old bath without breaking the bank

The easiest way to get a new snow-white bathtub is to throw out the old one and buy a new one. But this is expensive and unwise. It is cheaper and more correct to update an old bathtub, especially since all the methods we offer are accessible, quite simple and easy to implement at home.

Why restore your bathtub yourself?

Restoring the enamel or completely restoring an old bathtub will be much cheaper than buying, delivering and installing a new one and disposing of the old one. We don’t argue - this is not the most light work, but it is quite within the capabilities of an unprepared person. The main thing is to take your time and do exactly according to the instructions, then everything will definitely work out.
If you are afraid of ruining something, call the specialists. Finding such masters is not a problem: websites and newspapers are full of advertisements. In addition, probably someone I know has already done a similar procedure. But remember: to the cost consumables, which we calculated for each option, will add the cost of the master’s working time. For example, one of the companies offers a bathtub restoration service for only 4,500 rubles. It seems like a small overpayment for the saved time and quality. But this price does not include preparatory work: cleaning the bathtub, dismantling and reinstalling the drain, removing paint and enamel and a bunch of other little things. In total - about 8,000 rubles. There is a difference.

Method No. 1. Restoring the bathtub using bleaching and polishing

If the enamel is cast iron or steel bath does not have large visible cracks or chips and is simply darkened or yellowed; we return the whiteness and smoothness by polishing and bleaching. The procedure is simple and safe for the enamel: the coating of a good bathtub can be polished several times. It changes its color because microcracks appear on its surface. As a result, dirt and other deposits accumulate there - this is what we will fight with.

We buy a cleaning bleach for the bath at the hardware store. In any supermarket you will find a dozen items. Can also be used folk remedies: vinegar, chlorine bleach, car cleaner. More will be needed grinder rotary or vibration type. Rent it from friends or buy it - it’s a useful thing and will come in handy around the house.

2. Whitening

First, thoroughly wash the bathtub with detergent and cleaning powder, remove all dirt with a sponge or stiff brush. Then apply bleach to the clean surface of the bathtub. After the time specified in the instructions, rinse off the bleach with plenty of water. If an acid is used as a bleach, add soda to the water: the alkali neutralizes the acid (chemistry, grade 7). Repeat the treatment in those places where darkening or yellowing remains.1.

3. Polishing

Before polishing, try bleaching and polishing some of the most dirty areas. If visible cracks remain, it means that the enamel coating has worn out and requires restoration or even replacement. If everything turned out well, great. Start with coarse sandpaper, then medium sandpaper, and finish with polishing paste. Products that are used to polish cars are perfect.

Pros and cons of bleaching and polishing

The main advantage of this method is its low cost: a sanding machine will cost you from 500 to 2500 rubles, a bleach - about 500, sandpaper - 200 rubles per package. Total: 1200 - 1500 rubles if you buy the cheapest grinding machine. The time can be completed in one day: the bath will be ready for use that same evening. Unfortunately, polishing will last for a year or two, no more: the enamel layer becomes thinner, but the temperature and mechanical effects remain the same. Then - only replacement.

Method No. 2. Restoration of a bathtub with self-leveling acrylic

Renewing a bathtub with acrylic is a little more expensive and takes longer. It is necessary to tear off the old enamel from the bathtub and apply a new coating based on acrylic resin.

1. Preparation of necessary materials

Arm yourself with a sander with a coarse abrasive, a drill with a wire brush, or regular coarse sandpaper. You will also need metal putty. Where to buy? In any hardware store. There you can buy a special filling composition for bathtubs based on acrylic resin. For example, “Stacrylic” or “Liquid acrylic”.

2. Removing old enamel and preparing the surface

First, carefully remove all old enamel. It will be noisy and long. Afterwards, rinse the bathtub with a degreaser and dry thoroughly. Fill large unevenness and roughness (and there will certainly be some) with the metal putty you are already familiar with.

Next, disconnect the bathtub from all plumbing: remove the faucet if it interferes with the process, and be sure to disconnect the drain. Place a container under the drain hole - excess prepared mixture will drain there. Prepare the composition. To do this, mix liquid acrylic with hardener in the proportion indicated in the instructions and mix thoroughly. The mixture should be viscous and fluid.

3. Filling the bathtub with acrylic

Carefully and evenly pour the mixture onto the edges of the bath so that it flows down to the bottom of the bath. There is no need to correct or “help” the composition - it will flow to the bottom itself and leave a coating of the required thickness. Please note that a The krill coating is applied in one or several layers. Before applying the next layer, let the previous one dry thoroughly (at least a day).

Leave the updated bath alone for a few days: acrylic composition It takes 3 – 5 days to dry completely. If you covered the bathtub in several layers, wait at least a week.

Pros and cons of using acrylic

We have good news for you: the service life of new self-leveling enamel (subject to careful care) is up to 5 years. Then the procedure will need to be repeated. However, this method will cost a little more than the previous one: a grinding machine costs from 500 to 1200 rubles, liquid acrylic for a 1.7 m bath - about 2000 rubles (for one layer of coating), detergent - about 200 rubles, putty for metal - 700 Total: 3,400 rubles (with the most inexpensive sander). Another disadvantage is that you will have to spend more time. The whole process will take two to three days: a day to clean off the old enamel, wash and putty, and a day or two to pour and dry the mixture. You will be able to use the bathroom only after 5 days.

Method No. 3. Restoring a bathtub using a liner

And finally, the most expensive and most effective way bath updates - acrylic liner. The principle is clear from the name: an acrylic liner is installed in an old bathtub according to size. Old enamel it is not necessary to remove it. Of course, some things will have to be removed and removed. But first things first.

1. Preparation of necessary materials

You will need bathtub detergent, foam to hold it in place, waterproofing sealant, and the liner itself.

2. Surface preparation

Rinse and degrease thoroughly inner surface bath and let it dry thoroughly. Next, remove the decorative screen or false panels and carefully remove the row of tiles that touches the tub.

3. Installation of the liner

First, apply a fixing compound - two-component polyurethane foam - to the inner surfaces of the old bathtub. Insert the finished liner into the bathtub. After this, treat the joints with polyurethane foam or waterproofing sealant. Return the tiles and false panels to their place.

In principle, you can use the bath immediately, but it is better to pour water into it and leave it like that for a day. Under the weight, the liner will “sit down” and take the shape of an old bathtub.

Pros and cons of using an earbud

The main advantage of this method is that a bathtub with an acrylic liner will last at least 15 years. But there are also disadvantages: ready-made liners are sold only for bathtubs standard sizes. For a non-standard bathtub, you will have to make it to order, and this is more expensive, you understand. The high cost is also not encouraging: a standard acrylic liner of size 1.5 will cost about 4,000 rubles, a 1.7-meter one - from 4,800 and above. Polyurethane foam for fixation it will cost about 300 rubles. Silicone sealant for joints - approximately 200. Detergent for baths - 200. The total, according to the most conservative estimates, will be about 5,000 rubles.

hot water

detergent

heavy pollution

If you follow these simple rules, your updated bathtub will last you a very long time. Live easy!

Due to constant cleaning and processing, the enamel in the bathroom gradually deteriorates and loses its attractive appearance, becoming hard and rough. After 10-15 years of use of plumbing fixtures, unwashable stains appear on the surface. yellow spots and rusty stains, chips. Then restoration of the bathtub enamel is required.

Why do you need to restore bathtub enamel?

Restoration of the enamel coating is needed not only to restore the smoothness and former presentable appearance of the surface. Enamel protects plumbing from negative impact boiling water, sudden temperature changes, cleaning chemical compositions and other aggressive factors. It is important to restore the coating in time, otherwise rust will destroy the product!

You can carry out the procedure for restoring and restoring the bathtub with your own hands. This method cheaper and easier than buying and installing new bath or contact specialists.

The updated coating will not last as long as the new factory one. However, it will return the previous attractive appearance, albeit for a short period of time, but without any special physical and financial costs.

In order for the new coating to last longer, you should properly care for the surface of the bathtub and do not use too strong aggressive cleaning agents. Do not scratch the coating! Let's find out how to restore bathtub enamel at home.

How to prepare a bath

First you need to clean the surface using cleaning powder and fine-grit sandpaper. It is important to remove rust, chips and scratches so that the coating becomes smooth. Severe rust and stains are removed with oxalic acid.

To do this, mix the acid with water to the consistency of a thick paste or slurry. Then dip a cotton pad in the mixture and apply to problem areas. Leave on for half an hour and then rinse off.

After cleaning, the surface is degreased using gasoline or acetone. To do this, wipe the coating with a cotton pad or a small cloth soaked in one of the products. Then the bath is filled with hot water, left for 15 minutes and the water is drained. After this, the surface is thoroughly dried.

It is important to carry out work only on a dry surface! Moisture must be removed from the walls, bottom and enamel pores. To properly dry the bathtub, first wipe the surface with a soft, dry, lint-free cloth.

Then use a draft, hair dryer or fan. Only then restore the coating using one of the methods described below. When purchasing products, be sure to read the instructions and follow the recommendations!

Restoring a bathtub using enamel

Primer and further coverage Baths with purchased enamel are the most common option, which restores the coating as effectively as possible. When working, be sure to use gloves and a respiratory mask, as the primer emits a pungent odor.

However, it is possible to paint with enamel without prior priming, but in this case the new coating may turn out uneven and will not last so long.

The primer is applied to the inner surface of the bathtub and left to dry. Then enamel is applied to the dried primer layer in three layers using a small roller or cloth swab. The roller will fill every crack, scratch and chip.

For convenience and speed, the last layer can be applied with a spray gun, spray gun or spray gun. Before applying each new layer, be sure to wait until the previous one has dried!

In rooms with high humidity When drying the enamel coating, use a heater or fan heater to prevent the enamel from cracking. Two hours after coating, the bath is wiped with solvent to obtain a smooth, flat surface with a glossy shine.

And to consolidate the result, the coating is polished after two or three days using some kind of polishing agent.

Bathtub restoration with liquid acrylic

Liquid acrylic is also a popular means for restoring enamel cast iron bath or plumbing fixtures made of other materials. It is fast and easy to use. Acrylic is sold as a set of a solid base and a liquid hardener.

Mix the components in equal parts and be sure to preheat the surface. To do this, pour hot water into the bath and drain after ten minutes, then dry thoroughly.

Before starting work, place a container under the bathtub drain into which excess paint will drain. Pour liquid acrylic gradually, smoothly and carefully, starting from the far corner of the side and moving in a circle.

Try to keep the flow even. Pour paint until it covers the walls halfway. Do not smooth out the sagging or remove the bubbles; they will gradually spread out on their own.

Then start pouring paint from the middle of the side and move in the same direction until the walls are completely painted. The acrylic on the bottom can be leveled using a rubber spatula. You can also use a spatula to remove paint dripping from the edges of the bathtub. After this, the coating is left to dry for two to six days, depending on the type and brand of acrylic.

When covering with liquid acrylic, paint is poured evenly, slowly and carefully. Take your time! Do not level the composition on the walls of the bath, as it distributes on its own. Move in one direction only!

What product for bath restoration?

Epoxy enamel (“Epoksin-51” and “Epoksin-51S”) is the most common type of product, which is distinguished by its availability and low price. The coating will last 5-9 years. This paint dries in 1-2 days and effectively fills gaps and scratches, chips and cracks;
Restoration set “Fantasy” - high-quality products with a wide selection color range. Here are light green, white, green, pink, blue and beige bath paints. Modern and effective enamel lasts about ten years. Dries within a week;
The restoration set “Svetlana” takes 5-7 days to dry and has a varied palette of colors. Distinguished by quality and high efficiency. The paint lasts up to 9-10 years;
Liquid acrylic or stacrylic is a convenient and easy-to-use product that does not form smudges or sagging. The paint does not have a strong toxic odor, creates a warm, pleasant creamy shade and lasts up to 15 years! Dries on average three days;
Reaflex-50 is a product for painting bathtubs from the Finnish company Tikkurila. High-end professional enamel lasts for more than ten years, but is difficult to apply. In addition, it dries for about a week.

How to remove chips and porosity in a bathtub

A mixture of BF-2 glue and dry whitewash is suitable for eliminating small chips. To do this, apply the composition in several layers to the damaged areas with a brush. Be sure to wait until the previous one has dried before applying each new layer. Apply layers until the area is even with the base enamel coating.

A mixture of Super Cement glue and nitro enamel will help eliminate deep scratches and severe chips. To do this, mix the products in equal proportions and apply the composition to scratches and chips in several layers. It is advisable to apply each layer with an interval of one day.

Instead of glue and nitro enamel, they also use epoxy resin and titanium white or fragments of porcelain, ground into powder. Take two parts resin to one part white or porcelain chips and mix the ingredients.

The resulting composition is applied to the chip and smoothed with a razor blade. The mixture is left to dry for five days, during which you cannot use the bath!

Nitro paint restores porous and rough enamel. To do this, a small amount of paint is poured onto the bottom of the bath and rubbed into the surface. Make sure the paint fills every scratch and every pore.

Repeat the procedure several times, allowing the surface to dry. The last layer can be applied with spray paint, as it gives the most even and smooth coating. Remove excess paint that remains after rubbing in with a swab dipped in solvent.

How to care for new enamel

Do not wash the enamel surface with abrasives, powders and pastes;
Do not allow acids, solvents, chlorine, or various acid- and chlorine-containing products to come into contact with the enamel;
Do not wash in a bath using bleach;
Do not leave water on the bottom of the bathtub after use as this will cause rust;
Do not place metal basins, pots, buckets and other containers or metal objects in the bathtub;
Do not scratch the enamel with sharp or piercing objects. Do not use wire wool!;
Wash the bathtub after each bath, otherwise plaque will form on the enamel;
You need to wash the bathtub with soap, soap solution or dishwashing detergent with a soft brush or sponge and cloth;
After washing, rinse the bath thoroughly and wipe dry with a soft, lint-free cloth;
Once a week, disinfect the bathtub by pouring boiling water over the surface. If necessary, you can wipe the surface with soda or vinegar, thoroughly rinsing off the products after treatment.

If you provide proper care for the enameled surface, it will retain its color and smooth glossy finish for a long time. If you follow the rules and recommendations, the new enamel will easily last another five years. And when using reliable restoration products and high quality bathtub restoration work - up to 15 years!