Paving slabs - modern type material that is excellent for beautifying small areas, such as paths in squares and parks, garage driveways, decoration local area on a suburban area. It's no secret that now manufacturers offer a wide variety of shapes and types of tiles that can create individual style design on your site. Various color and patterned textures are used to highlight originality and preserve a unique style. Laying paving slabs with his own hands determines not only architectural ensemble future site, but also its durability. Therefore, it is important to follow the installation technology and not neglect simple and mandatory rules. But, in general, the technology itself is quite simple and does not require special knowledge in construction industry. In this article we will reveal step by step plan work and find out what you need to lay out the tiles on your own, as well as what materials and tools you will need for this.

Materials and tools

There are 2 main types of tiles used for laying sidewalks:

• Stamped.
• Vibrocast.
• Granite.

The first type is more budget-friendly, special costs does not require production, however, the quality of such tiles is often poor. But tiles made using vibration casting technology, on the contrary, are famous for their durability, however, there is a small disadvantage of this type - it is a high price. Tiles can be the most different sizes and configurations, width and length.

The height varies from 20 mm to 70-80 mm. Considering the purpose of the site, it is worth focusing on the size and height. For small paths, high strength is not required from the tiles, so even thin tiles from 20 mm will do. But for platforms and driveways it is better to use thicker tiles from 60 mm.

In addition to the tile itself, you will need:

• Crushed stone, sand. It is better to use a crushed stone fraction of no more than 40 mm.
• Cement or special plaster mixture.
• Geotextiles. It protects the tiles from sagging.
• Borders are usually sold individually.

What tools are needed to lay paving slabs:

Hammer (rubber).
Level (preferably more than 1 m).
Grinder with a diamond wheel.
Several trowels.
Manual "rammer".
"Meter".
Shovel.
Rope (for marking).
Pegs.

NOTE
Additionally, buy rubberized knee pads and mittens. There is work to be done with water and electricity.

First you need to decide on the size of the plot and take into account all the nuances, create a plan drawing for convenience. Choose the type of tile, what pattern or color you would like. Taking into account the dimensions, we calculate the amount of material. It is also advisable to mark the area; for this, use pegs and rope.

Check all the nuances several times, take into account inconveniences and others. Pay special attention to vegetation; trees or shrubs should be bypassed or completely removed from the site, especially if they are young trees. As they grow, the roots of trees or shrubs will begin to lift the soil, due to this, swelling of the tiles will be observed, which will break, rise and sag in some places. Therefore, it is better to make a retreat from the seedling of at least a meter, and preferably more.

Before laying paving slabs, it is necessary to carry out work to prepare the soil. First of all, you need to remove top layer soil, which will level out unevenness, compact the soil and create a sand and gravel cushion. The characteristics of the site depend on the purpose of the site. For arranging sidewalks, make a platform 20 cm deep, and for car parking lots and entrances 27-30 cm.

After the hole has been dug, the soil must be compacted. To do this, you need to water it with a hose with a sprinkler, after which you need to walk with a tamper. The procedure, which is simple to perform, plays an important role in the durability of the paving surface, as it helps prevent subsidence, the process of subsidence of the site, which is observed over time in the operation of the road surface.

Types of paving slabs with their pros and cons

Modern manufacturers of building materials make paving stones using different modern technologies. Depending on the characteristics of the technological process, sidewalk tiles are divided into 3 types:

• vibration-cast;
• vibropressed.

Vibrocast tiles produced using plastic compounds . The “filling” of the building material is poured using equipment into special containers - “vibroforms”. Paving slabs of this type are attractive appearance, she imitates natural wood or brick. More often this type building material is used for individual construction. Vibro-cast tile elements are used for arranging personal plots country houses and cottages. They are also laid out on paths located in parks and garden plots.

Vibropressed tiles made in a different way. Pre-prepared concrete mixture poured into a special mold. After this, it is subjected to pressure, which is created by special equipment - a brick press. Thanks to special manufacturing technology, building material has a strict shape with a rough surface. Vibropressed tiles are used to lay sidewalks, pavements, squares and roads in crowded and public places.

Modern consumers have access to a large number of different product options. color range. There are also paving slabs various shapes, the following figured paving elements are most in demand:

• honeycomb;
• paving stones;
• scales;
• clover;
• wave;
• fleece;
• gzhelka;
• flower.

Depending on the material from which paving slabs are made, they are divided into several types. Relatively inexpensive building materials made of concrete and clay are popular among modern consumers. In the arrangement suburban areas Clay paving slabs are often used to imitate roofing tiles. To improve technical characteristics building material manufacturers can add a binder material to the tiles, for example, granite chips.

The most wear-resistant is, characterized by the excellent strength characteristics of natural stone. It easily tolerates sudden temperature changes, due to which it has a long service life. Concrete slabs become unusable after 3-4 years, asphalt pavement will begin to deform after 2 years, and granite tiles will last more than 25 years. Another plus of granite is that it does not require additional means of protection against damage. The disadvantage of natural building materials is their high cost.

Stages of work on laying paving slabs

When arranging a suburban area of ​​a public place or garden path, you must follow certain rules and adhere to the recommendations of experts. To perform high-quality and durable styling tiles needed:

• Make drains to remove atmospheric water. When laying paving slabs of any kind on sand, rain or melt water will flow into the gaps between the paving elements and be absorbed into the base. If the base is concrete, then it will collect between the tiles and concrete, which will lead to swelling of certain sections of the path. To avoid this, a slope is necessary, which can be longitudinal, transverse or transverse-longitudinal. The gap for drainage of atmospheric water should be between the tiles and the curb.
• Compare the size of the tiles with the dimensions of the path. The larger the area and width of the paving path, the larger the shaped tile elements should be. Large paving slabs do not make the installation process easier. Due to the fact that large tiles carry more weight, they are more difficult to transport, lift, move and level. While adjusting the height, you will have to repeatedly lift the heavy layer to add sand.
• Choose the right track size. The width of the path should be selected taking into account the dimensions of the paving slabs and the width of the gaps between the paving elements. This will avoid unsightly and labor-intensive cutting of the tile material. This rule applies to laying tiles of the correct geometry. When creating circular patterns and imitation natural stone It will not be possible to do without the cutting process. In this case, it is necessary to think in advance about the location of solid and trimmed tile elements.
• Bring all communications to the tile laying process. If you don't take care of this in advance, you will have to dismantle the tile covering and reinstall it. If there is no need for communications at the moment, it is recommended to create conditions for laying sewer pipes in the future. To do this, it is necessary to lay inexpensive plastic pipes with a diameter of 50 mm or more under the path, in places where future communications will pass.
• Lay a layer of geotextile. It must be placed between the base pad under the paving slabs and the soil to avoid subsidence of the path and grass sprouting between the shaped paving elements.

Stage 1 – Layout of paving slabs – diagrams, patterns, drawings

Manufacturers offer a wide range of paving stones and tiles, which allows you to obtain a durable and aesthetic coating in public places, in the local area of ​​a private house or cottage. Main task designer - to choose the right tile design option and decide on the method of its placement. If you are doing independent arrangement suburban area, you should first familiarize yourself with the types of tiles, paving methods and options for laying patterns of finishing materials.

Due to the standard ratio of the length and width of shaped paving elements (FEM), there are a large number of schemes for laying paving slabs. For example, using a single-color Brick, you can arrange paving elements in various ways- along the track, diagonally to the longitudinal axis and lay out the original decorative pattern on any section of the roadway.

When using single-color figured paving elements, the following types of FEM Brick layout schemes are popular:

• "Linear" masonry. The bricks are placed parallel to each other along the track line, with the seams of adjacent elements matching.
• "Herringbone." The figured paving elements are located at right angles to each other;
• "Brickwork. The orientation of the paving elements is maintained as in “linear” masonry, but a bandage of ½ or ¼ brick is added in adjacent rows;
• "Block" masonry. Two paving elements are located parallel to each other, and the 2 adjacent bars are turned at right angles.

Useful advice! If you add Cube tiles to the shaped Brick paving elements, you can significantly improve the quality and attractiveness of the exterior of the paving area.

When laying paving slabs of 2 or more colors, you can use various options paving, allowing you to create a stylish and aesthetic design of the local area. If tiles of several colors or textures are used for landscaping, the “Checkerboard” tile layout scheme, which is simple in execution and effective in appearance, is often used. The standard block scheme consists of pairwise oriented paving elements Brick or Cube.

When paving sidewalks and garden paths with multi-colored shaped elements, it is recommended to follow the following rules:

• In suburban areas there are practically no flat sections of roads without elevation changes or intersections. In order to carry out a high-quality drawing of the paving area, you need to draw a sketch to scale or create a full-fledged project with the future order of the solar cells.
• In order to stylishly arrange and decorate a large area, you need to choose an original large-sized design.
• When arranging small sections of roads, it is recommended to use a small repeating pattern, design or ornament.

In almost every suburban area there are winding areas that need to be developed using paving slabs. Curly paving elements allow you to quickly create radius patterns with little labor. Laying paving slabs is carried out according to special technology, which includes the following steps:

• creating a sketch in a special program or to scale;
• a contact layer consisting of granotsev, grazovka or sand or grazovka, is applied to the paving area, after which it is carefully leveled;
• laying of FEM is carried out from a smaller radius to a larger one, provided that the paving elements are positioned with a side length along the path;
• compaction – after filling, the seams are filled with washed quarry or quartz sand, after which the tile is compacted using an area vibrator.

Important! If the bricks are oriented across the path, then a small radius row is laid first. In this case, the longitudinal seams of the paving elements are displaced in the form of a wedge of the required size.

Using the above-described laying technology, it is possible to lay the Brick element with a similar radius pattern on straight sections of the road in a large format. During the work it will not be possible to do without trimming some concrete products, due to which the pattern will contain pieces of small-sized paving elements. Despite this, a radius pattern will significantly increase the decorative value and attractiveness of the paving area.

Stage 2 – Preparation of material and tools for laying paving slabs

This is one of the most important stages arrangement of the paving area with tiles. In order to quickly and efficiently complete the work, you need to prepare everything necessary for laying paving slabs. For paving you will need the following materials:

• sand;
• tile;
• cement;
• border.

For self-installation paving slabs, you need to prepare the following tools:

• nylon thread;
• rubber hammer;
• level;
• pegs;
• long rule;
• trowel;
• tamping;
• broom.

If you plan to trim shaped paving elements, you need to prepare a grinder with a disc for cutting concrete. It is also recommended to buy knee pads that will help protect your knees when working with emphasis on this part of the body.

Stage 3 – Marking for laying paving slabs

Marking the paving area involves determining the contour of the future sidewalk path. The marking location is indicated using pegs inserted into the soil, between which a nylon thread must be pulled. Since it serves as a guide for the subsequent laying of tiles, the thread must be pulled exactly level. During the marking process, the following rules must be observed:

• The area for paving paving slabs must be marked with strips 1 - 1.5 m wide.
• All paths located on a suburban area should have a slight slope towards the drainage, due to which sedimentary water will not negatively affect the coating and destroy it.
• After laying paving slabs, you need to check the width and level of the paths, as well as the convenience of their location on the suburban area.

Stage 4 – preparing the base for paving slabs

Thanks to a carefully prepared base, the coating will last longer, guaranteed. Over time, the tracks will not sag and will last longer.
If there were already tiles on the site before, they absolutely need to be removed, and at least 25 cm of soil must be removed. Pay attention to the remaining roots or stems; all this should be removed without regret, so that in the future various plants will not grow from your tiles. Be sure to consider water drainage; even through small cracks, water will still get into the soil.

Important! It is necessary to ensure that the base for laying paving slab elements is perfectly level.

If clay predominates in the soil, then it is better to make a kind of hollow and drainage at the end of the trench. And so that the water flows into drainage system, you need to make a slight slope along the edges with transverse and longitudinal drains.
The main feature of the “pillow” is that no matter what type of mortar will be used during installation, it is imperative to make a crushed stone or sand base. To ensure reliability, additionally make a screed from mortar.

Important! For areas where heavy weight bearing is expected, it is necessary to make a screed.

To begin with, on the first level we lay and carefully compact a layer of crushed stone or gravel. Next, a layer of sand is laid on this compacted base. Keep in mind that the sand layer should be about 3-4 cm after compaction. And the tiles should protrude beyond the overall height of the area, by about 1-1.5 cm. It is recommended to lay geotextiles between the gravel and sand, which will allow precipitation to flow freely, but will keep the sand from subsiding.
If the characteristics of the soil are not heaving, you can use only a 10-15 cm layer of sand, but it must be moist. After scattering the sand over the site, it is generously filled with water, and after a few hours it is compacted. And the top layer should be used ready mixture, or prepare your own sand-cement mortar, with a ratio of 3 to 1. You need to fill about 3-5 cm.

Useful advice! To maintain a uniform level of embankment on the site, you can use a life trick, namely, build unique guides from pipes, which can then be easily dismantled.

Stage 5 – Technology for laying paving slabs

Remember one thing important rule, you only need to lay the tiles from yourself, thereby you will not disturb the base. Also, installation, regardless of the size of the material, must be carried out along a diagonal plane and each element must be tightly adjusted; this will help solve the problem of uneven seams. It is recommended to leave no more than 2mm between the plates so that there is enough space for dusting afterwards. It is better to compact the laid tiles with a wooden mallet. If the element does not lie evenly or falls through, carefully throw sand with a trowel and press it.

After all installation, we align the “swollen” tiles to the overall tone using a rubberized hammer and level. There are times when, to create a pattern, you need to cut the tile and trim it, so, do this only when all the solid-format tiles in the pattern are all laid out. For cutting, it is better to use a special knife, or, in the absence of one, a grinder.

Important! Installation of paving slabs cannot be carried out during rain or immediately after precipitation, since the soil and the cushion placed on it must be dry. Optimal humidity- guarantee that the tiles will last for many years.

Adding a final touch to the design of the site will help by installing a border. These stones allow you to create a geometrically flat area. After laying all the material, a trench is dug along the edge for the installation of curbs. The border must be installed in such a way that the top of the tile itself does not rise above the stone. The curb stone is placed on a mortar with a consistency of at least M100. The side of the border also needs to be filled with mortar and sprinkled with a small layer of sand on top.

After laying all the elements, we check the site to ensure there are no bulges or holes. If defects are found, we eliminate them and fill absolutely all the seams with sand or a mixture with the addition of cement. All excess can be easily removed with a broom, and then the seams should be thoroughly moistened with a hose. If after moistening the sand sag, it is necessary to fill it again to strengthen the coating. Otherwise, under the load of adjacent slabs, the canvas will begin to rise or sag and “walk.”

Important! Please note that the sand used for dusting should under no circumstances contain any impurities, otherwise vegetation may appear in the cracks over time.

You can begin to fully develop the site, that is, walk and drive on it only after a few days. This cannot be done before, as the solution must harden and dry. Do not forget that the tiles need to be cleaned and washed periodically. IN winter period Do not use metal scrapers or crowbars to clear the area - this will damage the surface of the slab. It is also strictly forbidden to use salt-containing mixtures, because over time they will destroy the coating. In addition, keep in mind that any tile is not “friendly” with varnish, paint and other chemicals.

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An important characteristic of the landscape adjacent to residential building, is the relief. It is he who determines the location of the gazebo, summer house, artificial pond, flower bed, garden or playground.

All this will be “connected” to each other by garden paths lined with paving slabs. The question arises: what to do if there is a slope when laying paving slabs? Let's find out in the article.

You will find out how they do it and what are the advantages of paving paths on your site with bricks.

Average degree of slope

If laying tiles on small slopes is of practical importance, then on medium slopes it is more decorative element: we are talking about garden paths. And here there are some features in the excavation work, as well as in the construction process itself.

The steeper the slope, the greater the likelihood of “sliding” of the paving. Therefore, it is necessary to strengthen the soil under the paving stones against landslides. To solve the problem, it is recommended to use a special non-woven roll material made of polypropylene - geotextiles (or geogrid).

Properties of geotextiles:

• water permeability;
• high strength;
• prevents the displacement of soil layers when water drains;
• high frost resistance;
• aseptic: not affected by fungus, does not rot, does not decompose;
• environmentally friendly: when strengthening the soil, it is well adjacent to any vegetation;
• prevents wind erosion of soil.

When laying paving slabs on slopes using geotextiles earthworks are made to a depth that takes into account the thickness of the underlying layers and the height of the tiles.

You need to make a margin so that the edges of the tiles rise above the surface of the ground. This is approximately 20-50 cm.

The bottom and walls of the excavation are covered with geotextile, on which fine crushed stone or gravel is laid, compacted and again covered with geogrid. The side edges of the material are covered with borders.

Laying paving slabs on a slope is carried out from the bottom point of the paving (against the movement of water). At the bottom of the paving, a concrete drain is provided, which will act as a base stone, i.e. the first rows of tiles will rest on it.

Otherwise, on the slope it is carried out using the same technology as on flat surface. To better secure the paving elements, you can use a mortar instead of a cement-sand mixture.

Many people who want to lay paving slabs on their own residential property need to familiarize themselves with the step-by-step instructions for the technological process. Paving paths and parts of the territory creates an aesthetically pleasing landscape and makes it possible to move in any direction, regardless of weather conditions.

Introduction

The duration of operation of paved areas is influenced by the quality of the material used, and the technology for laying paving slabs in the courtyard of a private house or summer cottage. It is interesting to do the work yourself, receiving satisfaction from the result of the work. Not every home owner will entrust the installation of purchased raw material to invited specialists without making sure of their professionalism. By following the step-by-step sequence of the process, and the advice of the specialist in this article, the final result will be achieved.

Material selection

They vary in thickness, color, shape and wear resistance. On construction market Products manufactured according to different technological specifications are offered for paving; this is a casting or pressing method.

• Vibrocast. It loses brightness faster and can be erased. This material is economically priced. It is laid on sections of the track with low traffic.
• Vibropressed. The pressing method makes the structure dense and resistant to wear, which guarantees quality and abrasion resistance. Used for paving access roads to parking lots.

Use the following tile thickness in millimeters:

• Pedestrian paths, sidewalks and blind areas from 25 to 40.

• The access road to the car parking is from 40 to 60.

Large sizes of material are more difficult to install. The heavy slab has to be lifted frequently to level the level. When working with small and medium-sized products, it is easier to create ornaments.

Project

The new territory of land will require preliminary layout of paths. When making markings, take into account standing objects that require approach. The shortest lines of communication are not always direct. They study paths formed naturally, if they are absent, they lay new ones, leaving them unpaved for a while. Having made sure that the map of movement on the ground is correct, they begin work on cleaning the soil.

General information

Soil characteristics

The structure of the earth influences the choice of material for the base under the tiles. Soil is divided into the following types:

• Mobile. It requires an additional concrete screed, which ensures the rigidity of the created sidewalk structure.
• Dense. Limited to bulk sand.

Reserve space for pipes or cables

It is advised to complete all work on laying communications before paving the paths. It is difficult to restore their level and pattern after dismantling. Pre-laying option allowed plastic pipe with a diameter of 50 millimeters, for subsequent use.

Protection against vegetation germination

Geotextiles are laid on the ground for subsequent layer-by-layer embankment or concreting. It will prevent weeds emerging from the ground from destroying the seams of the joint.

Conditions are created for the drainage of rain, melt or irrigation water

The sand base absorbs excess moisture through the joints, which cannot be said about the concrete pad. In any of the selected options, the path is made at an elevation above ground level, inclined to one side, or oval. The size of the slope is 1 centimeter or 5 degrees per 1 meter of length. Water is absorbed by concrete slowly. The lack of drainage will lead to its stagnation and cause swelling of the layers. On the side of the curb, a hollow is laid - an aryk, to drain water and drain it to a specially designated place.

Note

Laying tile products is possible under the following conditions:

• The bulk cushion dries naturally after precipitation. Excess moisture has a bad effect on the quality of surface leveling.
• Sand is used in pure form without clay impurities.
• The planned width of the path is adjusted to the size of the paving slabs. Before forming an embankment on the ground, a model of the ornament is created according to the developed design project.

• Geometric shape, laid out in a pattern. When paving, they create a semblance chessboard, diamond, fan, coil, wedge leaf, honeycomb or sleeping butterflies.
• Tiles having 3Deffect, or an illusory three-dimensional perception of a pattern laid out with flat material.
• Artistic mess. It is created using different colors, shapes and sizes.

Tool

• Rope or nylon thread.
• Wooden stakes.
• A hammer with a rubber head (mallet).
• Level.
• Tamping.
• Trowel.
• Broom.
• Grinder for cutting material or leveling a concrete base.
• Knee pads for comfortable support of the legs while working.

Preparation

Using the design of the location of the tiles and the calculated width, adjusted to the size of the material, markings are made on the ground. The stakes are driven in along the contour. On straight sections their number is limited. For round and oval shapes of areas covered by flooring, more marks are required. Stretch the thread using a level.

Before filling the mound cushion, clear the separated area of ​​weeds, plant roots, stones, and remove the top layer of turf. The loose soil is watered and compacted with a tamper.

It is allowed to use geotextiles that prevent weeds from growing through the joints.

Laying the limiters

The border is installed in a prepared trench along the contour of the proposed paving, fixed with supports, and filled with concrete mortar. After complete hardening, the excess parts are removed and the resulting mixture is sprinkled monolithic frame sand or earth. The border protects the structure from deformation of the contours, initially fixing given parameters, and makes the drawing complete.

The material for the contour limiter is tile, stone or plastic, installed at the level of the track, or slightly higher, with a reserve for shrinkage.

On the side of the slope (slope), lay a jug for water. It is effective when there is a natural slope of the path, providing drainage.

Substrate formation

Depending on the wishes and type of soil, it is made with different material compositions. It is proposed to consider each option in more detail.

Sandy

The artificially created bed in the ground is filled. The first layer is sand, 10 cm high, then drainage bulk material. They use gravel or crushed stone, raising the level to 20 for sidewalks, and 40 centimeters for the driveway and parking lot. Clean sand is poured onto the crushed stone, in a layer of 200 millimeters or higher, depending on the thickness of the paving blank, filling the existing voids in the mass of crushed stone, and creating a base for the tile.

The base, ready for laying, is leveled and water is sprayed on top. For the top layer, fine sand is used, which provides good fixation. After lightly moistening, allow the surface to dry, then level it and maintain the angle of inclination.

Sand-cement

Both components are combined into a single composition. Make a dry solution in the following parts:

• Sand – 3.
• Cement – ​​1.

The mixture poured into an intermediate layer on gravel is not moistened before placing paving slabs.

Concrete

Tile paving on a reinforced base, or an existing one, is not advisable. Water does not seep into the ground at the joints; the remaining moisture crystallizes in winter, increasing in volume. This properties formed ice destroy the created structure, leading to deformation of individual sections.

Laying tiles

By adhering to the direction away from you, you ensure that the selected level of inclination is maintained. The master moves along the laid surface without disturbing the integrity of the substrate. Begin installation in the following order:

• Drawing in a circle from the center.
• All others are from the edge of the object located in the paving area.
• From the lowest point.

Leave a gap of 2-3 millimeters between the joint seams, fixing each subsequent form with wedges made of plastic or wood. Process provides for the deepening of the side planes by 50% of the material into the mass of the base made of sand or its mixture. Therefore, when making a substrate, take into account the thickness of the paving slabs used for flooring.

The level of control over the angle of inclination is constantly close to the worker. A stretched transverse rope becomes a guide to the height. Having laid out three rows, make control measurements. Surface convexities are corrected with a rubber mallet or wooden block. Sand or dry mixture is poured under the sagging tiles.

Move carefully along an unsecured sidewalk until the surface is completely fixed. Correct protruding material by tapping from above or from the side.

Video recommendations for correct installation paving slabs from specialists

Sealing joints

It’s not difficult to finish the work you started with your own hands. Using clean sand for the first layer, for the second filling of the openings a dry mixture with cement in a 1:1 ratio.

By vigorously directing the composition with a brush into empty spaces, they ensure the density between the tiles specified by the technological conditions. It will help to make sure the quality of the work done visual assessment surfaces, after cleaning from the remaining solution.

The surface is thoroughly cleaned of residues and irrigated with water. Moisture, combining with a mixture of sand and cement, spontaneously concretes the seams. Without allowing it to harden completely, the spacers are removed. After some time, re-sprinkle the dry solution on the surface of the path, evenly distributing it over the remaining openings, clean off the residue, and water it with water without pressure, using the spray method until puddles form on the surface.

It’s quite possible to make a beautiful and practical path yourself if you familiarize yourself with all the nuances of this process in advance. The most common covering for paths and platforms is paving slabs. Properly carried out preparatory work for installing paving slabs - the key to a durable coating. The laying can be done by craftsmen, and it is also possible to do pavement tiles yourself, this will require effort and knowledge of laying schemes.

Guide: how to properly lay paving slabs in your country house

Preparing and marking the soil is the most creative stage, since the site must be planned in advance, but it is also the most labor-intensive stage, which plays the most main role. It is necessary to mark the area in which the installation of tiles will be done with your own hands.

Before laying tiles, experts recommend that you first properly prepare and mark the soil.

To do this you need:

• Install pegs;
• Pull a strong rope over them;
• Use them to adjust the desired shape of the path or platform.

The next stage includes clearing part of the earth at the installation site. It is necessary to dig up the soil to a depth of 20 cm in order to later replace it with more durable materials that can withstand the load for a long period of time. The stage of soil preparation ends with an ordinary tamper at the tile installation site; this can be done by any means, the main thing is to ensure that the soil does not settle, otherwise the tile path will not last long.

High-quality laying of paving slab paths in the countryside

Laying tiles on the ground on the site is not difficult, the main thing is to take into account some rules. The presence of drainage is necessary so that melt and rainwater is drained effectively and quickly from under the paving slabs. If it is not installed, then in winter the tiles will absorb a large amount of moisture and, when frozen, will collapse. Drainage consists of the usual addition of medium-sized crushed stone, which must be poured onto the bottom of the cleared area, well leveled and compacted with a tamper. The layer of crushed stone must be at least 7 cm.

The curb is not located below the surface of the paving slabs, but also does not protrude above it, which forms the upper surface of the path or platform. The border holds back the tiles in certain places, therefore, in order for it to form a solid fence, it must be properly fastened to each other.

High-quality laying of paving slab paths will decorate the interior of a summer cottage

To install a border, you must:

• Apply heaps of mortar to the top of the drainage fill;
• The curb is installed;
• Along the edges, a couple of pieces are enough for one border;
• Next, to make everything look beautiful, you need to align the top edge.

Sand is poured onto the crushed stone, leveled and compacted. Care must be taken to ensure there are no slopes. A layer of sand is required at least 9.5 cm. It should look like this: from the sand to the top of the curb there should be a distance that is equal to the thickness of the paving slabs, taking into account a couple of centimeters for the fastening material.

Installation of tiles begins from yourself in order to further move along the already installed surface.

It is necessary to ensure the evenness of each row. In this case, a stretched cord is used between the curbs. Individual tile elements should be spaced no more than 2 mm. If there is a need for shaped elements or a round platform, you can use a grinder for these tasks; it will easily cut off all unnecessary parts of the tiles.

Optimal technology for laying paving slabs in the country

The laying technology begins with the preparation of a fastening material, which consists of cement and sand in a ratio of 1:8, the dry mixture is thoroughly mixed until a homogeneous mass is obtained, it is this mixture that holds the tiles in position.

It is necessary to prepare materials and tools for installation in advance so as not to be distracted during the work process.

After this, you need to start laying the tiles in your dacha:

1. To do this, a fastening material is poured into the laying area; it must have a layer in which, when the paving slabs are installed on the backfill, they will rise 0.5 heights above the surface.
2. This fill must be evenly leveled; compaction is not required.
3. After this, you need to lay the first tile, which is simply installed on the surface sprinkled with fastening material and hammered into the cement-sand mixture with a heavy rubber mallet.
4. It is driven in until the height is equal to the curb.
5. Then take a second tile and install it next to it in the same way.
6. After installing all the tiles, excess fastening material must be removed.

The installation is completed by filling the tile gaps with a mixture of sand and cement. From the tiled surface, the mixture is carefully swept into the seams with a broom. This mixture will fix the paving slabs in position after the first rain, when it absorbs liquid and hardens. New paths are immediately watered with water from a hose using a sprayer; in this case, the tiles must be left alone for a couple of days.

Paving slabs are being laid in different ways. On a sand bed. The tiles are laid on a layer of wet sand. This path is made to decorate the garden. Water will not stagnate and will leave precisely thanks to the seams between the tiles, which are filled with sand.

Cement and wet sand are mixed in a ratio of 1:5 and evenly distributed on top of future paths.

Due to its ease, accessibility and reliability, it is the most common method. Cement-sand mortar(sand, water and cement) are mixed in a concrete mixer, the resulting mass is distributed over the surface of the tile with a trowel. After that, the tiles need to be laid and compacted with a mallet. This is the most reliable way installation, but it requires provision of drainage.

There are several options for laying paving slabs, which you can choose at your discretion

There are many options for laying paving slabs:

1. Herringbone or wicker. The most common option. The tiles are laid at an angle of 90° or 45°; if the elements alternate with each other, forming an interlacing, then it is a braid.
2. Chaotic masonry. The simplest installation method, which looks quite interesting, consists of tiles of various colors and sizes. In this method, the tiles must be laid randomly.
3. Chess order. Two types of tiles are suitable: figured and square, 2 different colors; the technique of this method is to lay them alternately.
4. Circular pattern. Most difficult option. Circular patterns are created that look beautiful both from above and from close range.
5. Combination of lawn and tiles. Most original version when the lawn or flower beds are combined with paved paths or areas. For this method, you can use street tiles specially designed for this type.

To correctly lay the material, there are several tips. We must not forget about slopes; when laying with your own hands, it is necessary to install a small mound in the middle, this will allow water to drain better, and also in the cold season will make it easier to tolerate freezing of water and thaw.

Needs to be implemented design ideas. For example, mix sand and seeds and pour the resulting mixture into the seams, then there will be a lawn between the tiles, which will allow the paths to stand out in the garden. The lining of the parking area for cars is done on a concrete pad; road slabs should be laid out in the same way as tiles.

Laying paving slabs with your own hands (video)

The issue of masonry is solved quite simply, although the process is quite labor-intensive, but in terms of technical components it is absolutely elementary. Already after laying paving stones with an area of ​​1 m2, you can feel like a real professional in this matter.

Similar materials

For seasonal or periodic use of a suburban area, laying paving slabs at the dacha can be done according to a budget option. The traffic intensity here is low, you can use the cheapest figured paving elements (FEM), abandon full-fledged curbs and prancing.

The main problem of an individual developer is traditionally limited budget. The technology for laying figured paving elements (FEM) with your own hands for decorating paths can be simplified. However, some mandatory requirements remain unchanged:

• arrangement of a rigid spatial “trough”;
• removing the topsoil, replacing it with crushed stone or sand with layer-by-layer compaction;
• ensuring the drainage of rainwater due to the slope of the surface.

Manufacturers produce latex and polymer molds for paving slabs; if you have free time, you can make the tiles yourself.

Forms for pouring FEM tiles.

Renting a vibrating plate provides additional costs; its installation is simple; most home craftsmen can assemble the equipment.

Homemade vibrating plate.

Manual tamping is easier to make; you will need a log and a block as a handle.

The simplest manual rammer.

Budget options for laying paving slabs

A summer resident can exclude some operations from the technology and replace expensive materials with budget options:

Important! Colored paving stones are more expensive, so in full saving mode you will have to choose non-colored tile options.

Base and underlying layer

The durability of paths directly depends on the quality of the base and underlying layer. Fertile layer can be removed entirely or by 0.4 m at a great depth. The resulting trench is filled with sand (only on dry soil) or crushed stone (at high groundwater level) with your own hands. Main nuances correct device the underlying layer are:

Important! The technology for removing the arable layer can be done by mechanization. In this case, the bottom of the “trough” must be cleaned with shovels, rolled or compacted to a condition similar to the above for sand.

Horizontal level marks should take into account the following factors:

• for paths, tiles 3 cm thick are sufficient, for car parking 4 - 6 cm;
• the plane of the FEM elements should be 2–4 cm higher than adjacent lawns and open areas of soil to ensure the gravity movement of rainwater runoff;
• paving stones need to be laid on a 4–7 cm layer of sand;
• The thickness of the arable layer is usually at least 40 cm.

In other words, when choosing 3 cm tiles, taking into account the above, the surface of the underlying layer should be in the “trough” at a depth of 5-7 cm. If paving stones 6 cm thick are used, the compacted crushed stone of the underlying layer should end at around 8 - 11 cm with a minus sign.

Advice! To reduce the consumption of inert material on long paths, large recreation areas and parking lots, ground leveling should be done taking into account the design slopes, and not created later with sand or crushed stone.

Selection of FEM elements

Paving a country path is done with paving slabs, the price of which depends on several factors:

Therefore, for the budget construction of pedestrian zones at the dacha with your own hands, gray vibro-cast paving slabs are used, for which the format matters:

Advice! Square tiles allows you to make a path 60 - 100 cm wide from FEM elements of different sizes from 30 x 30 cm to 50 x 50 cm without trimming along the entire length.

Paving in stages

To prevent paving slabs from sliding down the sides of the path, garden borders are used in classical technology. IN budget option These elements are cast into plank or earthen formwork; they can be made hidden:

• making trenches around the perimeter 25 cm deep;
• preparing concrete manually on a sheet or in a trough;
• laying the mixture with your own hands without reinforcement;
• bayoneting with reinforcing bar up to complete removal air (the crushed stone is completely recessed, cement laitance has appeared on the surface, air bubbles do not come out of the solution).

The height of the hidden borders must be made approximately to the middle of the tile, taking into account the layer of sand on which it is laid (5 - 7 cm). After the concrete has hardened (at least 3 days), you can begin paving:

• installation of beacon bars along the direction of the path;
• backfilling with sand and leveling the layer along the beacons;
• removing the bars and filling the remaining grooves with sand;
• laying the entire tile in front of you, pressing down each element with a rubber mallet as needed;
• cutting pieces and installing them at the place of use.

Important! Only a vibrating plate can be used to compact the entire surface of the laid pavement. Rollers made from barrels and tampers do not allow achieving the required effect.

At the last stage, the seams of the paving slabs should be filled with sand. Ideal option The sand is quartz; to reduce the cost of finishing, seeded quarry sand is quite suitable. river sand is unsuitable for this, since its particles have a rounded shape and do not have a self-wedging effect.

Path configuration

If you make the paths straight, taking into account the size of the tiles, you can reduce the trimming of FEM elements to a minimum. However, there are economical laying schemes for paving slabs of some configurations, when the entire path is lined with solid paving stones.

At intersections, the choice of scheme depends on the specific size and format of the tiles chosen by the developer. Here it is more difficult to do without a FEM cut, just as in the junctions with rainwater inlets under the roof drainage.

Decorating a crossroads in a dacha with Old Town elements.

The service life of one diamond disc for an angle grinder is significantly higher than that of a package of abrasive equipment for concrete/stone. So it's cheaper to buy one diamond blade, which upon completion of the work will remain in the arsenal of the home craftsman.

Thus, there are quite a lot of ways to pave a path in a country house with paving slabs on a budget. At the same time, labor costs increase slightly, and the service life of the cladding is practically not reduced.

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