The floor of the second floor in a wooden house - the main stages of installation. Fastening beams, reeling, waterproofing and insulation. Wooden floor of the second floor - recommendations for arrangement Floor of the 2nd floor on wooden beams

An obligatory part of any building is the ceiling, which is erected between floors. It divides the room by height, forming floors. Depending on the structure being built and the materials used, the type of flooring is selected. This is very important step. The cost of flooring is up to 20% of the funds used in the construction of a building, so it is very important to know how to make the floor between floors correctly.

Floor options

Floors are divided according to design features and functional purposes. These include interfloor, basement, and attic floors. They are beam, prefabricated and solid. When choosing a floor design, take into account the differences in installation technologies for its different options.

  1. Construction beam floors carried out using metal, reinforced concrete or wooden beams. They must have a large margin of safety.
  2. The distance between the load-bearing beams should be 70-80 cm. The wooden load-bearing beam should not be more than 5 m in length for floors between floors and more than 6 m between the attic and the lower room.
  3. The span width for reinforced concrete or metal load-bearing beams can be any.
  4. Hollow and monolithic slabs are used to create continuous floors. To prevent the slabs from moving, they must be secured with cement mortar. When installing slabs, you will have to use special lifting equipment.

Advantages and disadvantages

Each type of flooring has certain advantages and disadvantages. Wooden floors can be erected in any architectural location of any complexity. Wooden beams are not too heavy and you won't need any lifting equipment. To build a wooden floor, you will need serious financial investments.

Pay attention! The main disadvantage of wooden floors is the increased fire hazard of the structure.

Metal beams are durable and extremely reliable. They don't burn, they don't rot. But even despite all these advantages, metal beams are used less and less. In a humid atmosphere, they are susceptible to corrosion, and they also do not have good heat and sound insulation.

Reinforced concrete beams are durable, do not burn, and can be used to lay spans of up to 7.5 meters, but their installation requires special lifting equipment.

Wooden floors

Beams made from coniferous species wood, are the main part of the wooden floor. It consists of the beams themselves, the floor, the run-up and insulation. If the thickness of the floor boards is no more than 30 mm, then the gap between the beams should not exceed 50 cm.

Pay attention! Before installation, wooden beams must be treated with an antiseptic, and the ends that will be laid on the wall must be wrapped in several layers of roofing material. Leave the end of the beam open so that the wood can breathe.

Use anchor bolts to secure the wooden beams. Attach cranial bars to their side faces. Make rolls from boards or shields, which are fastened with self-tapping screws to the skull blocks. According to the established roll-up, you make the ceiling.

Then you lay insulation, most often mineral wool or polystyrene foam is used for this.

Floors with metal and reinforced concrete beams

You can use a rolled profile as iron beams. Place nine-centimeter reinforced concrete slabs between the beams. You pour slag on them and fix everything with reinforced concrete screed.

Reinforced concrete beams must be laid at a distance of 60-100 cm from each other. Lightweight concrete slabs are placed between the beams. Then you sound and heat insulate the ceiling.

Beamless

Such floors are a monolithic slab or panels laid closely. The beamless floor can be prefabricated, combined or monolithic. IN brick houses Prefabricated reinforced concrete floors are usually used. They consist of solid and hollow-core panels. The beamless ceiling is characterized by high strength and long service life: it does not burn, does not rot, it is designed for a load of 200 kg per 1 square meter.

During installation, the slabs are laid on a flat surface, on a layer cement mortar. The walls of the building must be at least 250 mm thick. After you finish the installation, you need to fasten the slabs with reinforcing bars and secure them in the walls with anchors.

From a monolithic slab

This covering consists of monolithic slab, which is manufactured on site and rests on the walls. For production use reinforcing mesh and concrete.

Monolithic slab flooring has a high quality surface and can be manufactured in any form of complexity.

Pay attention! The disadvantage of making a monolith floor is the mandatory installation of formwork.

If you choose the right roofing option for your home and carry out all the installation and concrete work efficiently, you will get a durable and reliable floor.

Video

Video on ribbed filling technology monolithic ceiling see below:

When building a house, you often have to face the problem of choosing a type.

There are three main options for carrying out this work:

  1. Installation reinforced concrete slabs.
  2. The use of a wooden structure separating two floors.

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Use of reinforced concrete slabs

Reinforced concrete slabs, which are used to cover floors in a house, are structures made of iron and concrete. Inside the slabs there is a reinforcing sheathing and round voids that stretch along the entire length of the product. The main purpose of the voids is to reduce its mass and increase the resistance to fracture deformation.

Reinforced concrete slabs have different sizes, both in length and width. You can find out their dimensions by their abbreviation. For example, products PC 72.15-8 mean that the length of the slabs is 72 decimeters and the width is 15 dm. The number “8” shows the calculated load that the structure will withstand (800 kgf/m).

The minimum weight of reinforced concrete floor slabs exceeds 500 kg. All this data indicates that it is impossible to do it yourself. To carry out our work we cannot do without:

  • reinforced concrete slabs;
  • crane;
  • welding machine;
  • spider devices;
  • steel rods;
  • crowbars;
  • trowel;
  • cement mortar.

The slabs must have four mounting loops, which can be in the form of curved parts of reinforcement or free reinforcement placed in recesses near the corners of the product. By purchasing reinforced concrete structures, all hinges should be carefully inspected. They must be intact.

The technological process involves applying cement mortar to the wall at. This method leads to a stronger fit between the elements of the first and second floors, and also prevents the formation of cracks in places where reinforced concrete structures come into contact with the wall. But at the same time, you should make the mortar and lay it on walls, piles, beams or pillars at the time of preparing the slab for installation work. This will prevent it from hardening prematurely.

The next step in creating a floor between floors is to attach the spider fixture to the mounting loops of the reinforced concrete slab. Only using this device (equipped with hooks and four ropes of equal length) can you obtain a horizontal position of the slabs without causing them to rotate. It is better to cover the floor with three people: one person will operate the crane, and two will be at the place of implementation installation work and level the installed slabs using crowbars.

The plane of the reinforced concrete product has the shape of a trapezoid. Its upper part is slightly narrower in size. When the ceiling is created and the slabs are laid next to each other, a recess 5-7 cm wide is obtained at the junction. This is obtained by pouring concrete mortar into it. The hinges on adjacent slabs are also connected. This happens as follows. Steel rods are taken, inserted into the hinges of adjacent slabs and bent. Now the reinforced concrete structures are firmly connected to each other.

Mandatory requirements when covering the first and second floors with slabs are:

  • compliance with safety rules;
  • overlap load-bearing structures carried out by the extreme points of reinforced concrete slabs;
  • installation of the structure must provide for a strip more than 15 cm in size between the edge of the slab and the outer part of the wall (place for laying bricks).

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Technology for creating a monolithic structure

The monolithic ceiling of the first floor is a more durable structure. This technology It is used in almost any house (brick, aerated concrete, foam concrete, slag concrete, reinforced concrete blocks) and can be done independently. Sometimes a monolithic floor is the most suitable option due to the fact that reinforced concrete slabs cannot be installed for objective reasons (presence of power lines, lack of access to the facility being built, etc.).

To do monolithic structure between floors, we will need the following materials and tools:

  • cement (grade 400 and higher);
  • sand;
  • crushed stone;
  • roofing felt;
  • steel reinforcement (20-25 mm);
  • mesh for reinforcement;
  • timber, wooden boards, channels or metal pipes for supports;
  • unsuitable boards for formwork;
  • concrete mixer;
  • trowel
  • buckets;
  • hammer;
  • rope;
  • nails.

A monolithic floor requires the construction of formwork when the walls of the first floor are erected to the required height. First, vertical supports are installed at a meter distance from each other. Their dimensions must correspond to the dimensions of the formwork boards, which must be adjacent to the walls. The number of supports depends on the area of ​​the house on which it is planned to cover the first floor.

Particular attention should be paid to the soil, which should not sag under the weight of the monolithic floor. Boards are tightly laid on the supports in a transverse position, which will become the bottom when pouring the concrete solution. The creation of formwork also occurs along the perimeter of the floor. It is necessary to do the work in such a way that the monolithic ceiling, which “lies” on the walls, does not push through the formwork. Important point- this is a high-quality connection and fixation of corners.

There are several requirements when arranging formwork for a monolithic floor. The main ones are:

  1. To prevent the concrete being poured from leaking, the boards are placed as close to each other as possible.
  2. To create vertical supports, only the strongest boards are used that will not bend under the weight of the monolith and cross beams.
  3. To fix the height of the monolithic floor, a gutter is created on the outer perimeter of the formwork.
  4. After the concrete solution has set, the formwork is dismantled. For this reason, the formwork must be made in such a way that it does not lie on the walls.

After erecting the formwork and carefully checking the reliability of the structure, you can begin pouring the monolithic floor. Its bottom, which is made of boards, is covered with roofing felt. Thanks to it, all remaining gaps between the boards are closed. Then, at a height of 6-8 cm from the roofing material, the reinforcement and reinforcing mesh are fastened.

Made from sand, cement, crushed stone and water concrete mortar poured into formwork. The overlap between floors should be 10-15 cm thick. If it is smaller, there is a danger that the overlap may not withstand the load. With a large thickness of the structure, the walls will be subject to significant load. A month later, the formwork is dismantled, and work on the construction of the second floor continues.

You can independently install a wooden floor between floors if you have significant experience in carpentry and general construction work. Wooden interfloor ceilings are critical structures in residential buildings and require careful adherence to installation instructions.

Do-it-yourself wooden interfloor slab - advantages and disadvantages

Any ceiling between floors, including wood, must meet the following characteristics:

  • Strength static and dynamic. The structure must withstand the weight of the expected load with a large margin;
  • Rigidity sufficient for quality basis when arranging floors (upper floor) and ceilings (lower floor);
  • Durability comparable to the service life of the entire structure. Replacing interfloor floors in an old building is a complex and expensive repair procedure; at the stage of capital construction, it is much easier to create floors between floors using durable wooden beams;
  • A good floor must have decent thermal and sound insulation properties.

Wooden floors satisfy all the listed qualities and have additional advantages. They can be easily installed by two people and do not require the use of heavy construction equipment. A span of up to 100 m2 can be laid in one day, if we talk about load-bearing structures and not their finishing. Wooden beams are many times cheaper than reinforced concrete slabs or steel floors - and their service life is tens (or even hundreds) of years.

Potential dangers of using wood as a load-bearing interfloor structure include the danger of its rotting and ignition in a fire. These factors are minimized by appropriate treatment of the beams before installation. Equally important is taking into account the minimum permissible deflection. For interfloor beams Due to its durability and resistance, coniferous wood is used. But it is quite plastic - therefore the maximum the size of the wooden beam span is limited to 5 meters. If it is necessary to cover a large room, additional supports (columns, crossbars, etc.) will be required.

Overlapping the second floor using wooden beams - structural calculations

From correct calculation and competent general construction preparation largely depends on how high-quality the installation of wooden floors between floors will be. Using optimally prepared beams, interfloor openings can be covered quickly and easily using convenient seating areas. First of all, the direction of installation of floors is always selected according to the short size of the room. The installation step is interdependent on the cross-section of the floor base, but is usually equal to 1 meter, since a smaller step will lead to greater labor intensity when arranging the seats. It makes more sense to buy wood of a larger cross-section than to spend money on a palisade made of weak floors.

For an installation step of 1 meter, provided that the second floor is habitable, you should acquire such load-bearing bars that can withstand a load of at least 400 kg/m2:

  • For a span of up to 2.2 meters – 75x150 mm;
  • For a span of up to 3.2 meters – 100x175 mm;
  • For a span of up to 3.2 meters – 125x200 mm;
  • When flying up to 5 meters – 150x225 mm.

The ceilings of uninhabited attics are made with the same pitch, but with a material of smaller cross-section. For example, for half the load (that is, 400 kg/m2), bars 50x160, 50x180, 70x180 and 70x200, respectively, will be sufficient. Just keep in mind that in an attic with such a ceiling you will then have to crawl, not walk... As you can see from the calculations, load-bearing beams with a ratio of 1.5:1 height to width are considered optimal. For attic spaces On the contrary, a narrow tree with an elongated profile is used due to the small load in the future.

Overlapping between floors - preparing for installation during the construction phase

When constructing walls made of brick, silicate blocks, or aerated concrete, openings are provided for the floor elements. The pitch of these openings is 1 meter, the depth is at least 30 (and preferably 40) centimeters, the width is the same. The beam must penetrate the wall at least 20 cm, plus free space will be required for its ends. The end part of the ceilings has no construction mixtures not filled in for purposes natural ventilation and obstacles to rotting.

The more accurately displayed in height seats in the walls of the house - the easier it will be to install the flooring of the beam structure. In houses made of wood, you can embed beam structures directly into the walls; here, the implementation of the future ceiling does not require preparation at the stage of wall construction. It is important to take into account the inadmissibility of installing load-bearing bars close to a parallel wall, no closer than 10 cm, and be sure to maintain strict consistency of the installation step - the permissible “run-up” from the nominal value of 1 meter should not exceed ± 5 cm.

Covering the second floor with wooden beams - installation stages

Walls with landing nests are ready, wood and auxiliary materials We have purchased the tools and are ready – we begin the installation of the floors:

  • One day before installation, the wood is coated with antiseptic mixtures and fire-resistant compounds - with the exception of the ends, no “chemicals” can be applied to them. The choice of such compositions is now very large, you can name brands Finesta, Seine and, Neomid, Pinotex etc. with a wide selection of antiseptics and fire retardants. All primer must dry well;
  • We measure the beams and cut them with a sharp wood saw with a margin of 35-45 centimeters from the size of the room for reliable support on the walls. It should be cut at an angle of 60˚, so that when viewed from the side, the ceiling element looks like a trapezoid with a wide bottom. The ends recessed into the walls are coated with resin and wrapped in roofing felt after it dries;
  • We install the outer beams. We work from a high, wide and reliable “goat”; stepladders alone cannot be used. We carefully set them according to the level and horizon. Wide sections from the same floors are used as linings, and pre-treated with antiseptic and fire-fighting compounds. Make sure that the ends of the beams do not rest against the walls; there should be a gap for ventilation of at least 3-5 cm in depth;
  • When there is no doubt about the accuracy of the installation of the side beams, they are secured with dry crushed stone in the landing sockets. The fishing lines are pulled tightly between the outer beams. Other elements of the floor beam frame are installed along these auxiliary lines;
  • The installed beams are carefully measured and adjusted again, after which the landing nests are concreted with a solution of cement and crushed stone.

Private low-rise construction has become increasingly popular in recent years.

Country houses and country houses, built with their own hands, occupy an increasingly large share of the total volume of housing put into operation.

The most popular material in private construction is wood, due to its affordable cost and ease of processing. But not all individual developers have sufficient experience and knowledge to independently carry out the entire range of construction work. So, the question often arises of how to properly lay the floor of the second floor in compliance with all construction standards and technologies.

Construction requirements for wooden floors

In order to install a durable and safe wooden floor between the 1st and 2nd floors with your own hands, you must strictly comply with the technical requirements for them.

Thermal insulation layer


Thermal insulation of the floor will improve the temperature in the room on the second floor

If a wooden floor separates the upper and lower rooms with a temperature difference between them of more than 10°C, it will be necessary to construct a thermal insulation layer.

This is necessary, for example, when arranging floors between the first floor and the subfloor, basement, or between the first/second floor and an uninsulated attic.

Beam strength


Beams and floors must withstand up to 180 kg/sq.m load

When constructing the floor of the second floor on wooden beams, care should be taken special attention strength of supporting structures. The safety of the building depends on how strong the wooden floor beams are.

According to building standards for wooden low-rise buildings, the maximum load on the floors of the first floor should not exceed 210 kg per sq.m., the pressure on the wooden floor of the second floor should not exceed 180 kg/sq.m., and for attics and attics this figure should be less than 105 kg/sq.m.

Maximum deflection

In addition, building regulations also impose requirements on the deflection values ​​of wooden floor beams. According to SNiP, this coefficient should not exceed 1 to 250. That is, the maximum deflection of wooden load-bearing structures during operation should be less than 4 mm per meter of beam length.

According to this standard, the deflection of a beam structure 4 m long in the center should not be more than 1.6 cm (4 m: 250 = 0.016 m). If you plan to place massive furniture in the room and household appliances, flooring as a floor covering tiles etc., then the requirements for structural rigidity increase to 1 to 400.

That is, the deflection should not exceed 2.5 mm per meter. For non-residential attics and attics, a higher deflection coefficient is allowed - 1 to 200 (5 mm per 1 meter).

Soundproofing


Fifty-millimeter mineral wool will not only insulate the floor, but will also become a good sound insulator

According to building regulations, the sound insulation threshold for interfloor ceilings of residential buildings should be 50 dB.

To meet this requirement, it will be sufficient to cover the floor of the second floor under the finishing coating with mineral wool 50 mm thick.


The length of the beam should be no more than 5 m

The maximum permissible length of free sag of wooden beams should not exceed 5 m for interfloor and 6 m for attic floors. If the design length of the room is more than 5 m, it will be necessary to install additional support under the load-bearing beam. The fact is that the optimal length of a load-bearing wooden structure is 4 m.

With a further increase in its length, the rigidity and strength of the supporting structure sharply decreases and the requirements for the thickness of the beam section increase disproportionately. So, in order for the deflection indicators for an 8 m beam to “fit” into SNiP standards, its thickness should be about 40 cm. For example: the same deflection indicator is shown by a 4 m beam with a cross section of only 15 x 15 cm.

Wood is a material quite vulnerable to external influences, primarily dampness and fire, therefore, before proceeding with the construction of load-bearing structures, all wooden elements must be treated with antiseptic materials and fire retardants.

Construction material

Before you begin installing the floor on the second floor using wooden beams, you should make a list of all the necessary materials. This will allow you to avoid unexpected downtime and delays during work caused by the need to purchase additional building materials.

Beams


A beam section of 15 x 15 will be sufficient

The basis of the entire structure of interfloor wooden floors is beams. They play a role load-bearing elements, and the strength of the structure depends on them. For them, a beam or carriage with a section of 15 x 15 cm or 18 x 18 cm is usually taken.

This cross-section is usually enough to provide sufficient rigidity for a specific load of 400 kg per sq.m. In this case, it is necessary to comply with the parameters recommended by construction standards: the span length is 4 m, and the step between the beams is 60 cm. Based on these parameters, you can also calculate the required amount of timber.

Span length (mm)Beam cross section (mm)
1 2000 75×150
2 2500 100×150
3 3000 100×175
4 3500 125×175
5 4000 125×200
6 4500 150×200
7 5000 150×225

However, in the absence of timber and small values ​​of the expected loads on the floor, it is quite possible to use boards 50 or 40 mm thick, knocked together in pairs and placed on edge. This option is suitable for installing floors in an attic or in a small country house.

For the first floor of a residential building, this option is not suitable due to the low load-bearing capacity of the boards: to ensure the necessary rigidity, the pitch between the board beams will have to be significantly reduced, which will lead to an unjustified waste of material.

Pine is most often used as a material for beams. This best option according to the “price-quality” criterion: its wood is quite affordable and at the same time has good technical characteristics.

Beams made from wood of stronger species (larch, oak) can rarely be found on the open market, and their price is incomparably higher, and pine wood, after appropriate treatment with antiseptics, will be little inferior in durability to the same larch.

When purchasing timber, you should choose a material with dry wood. Otherwise, after installation of the beams, they may become deformed during the drying process - bending and twisting.

Flooring


The wooden flooring laid on the beams will serve as a rough foundation under flooring

Typically, the flooring of interfloor floors is made in two tiers: below are subfloors on which insulation is laid, and on top is a pre-finish flooring mounted on top of the load-bearing beams. Decorative flooring is laid directly on it.

To determine the nature and amount of material for the flooring, you should clearly think through the design of the floors.

When constructing a subfloor, either 5 x 6 cm bars, packed onto load-bearing beams, or grooves made in the beams can be used as support for the flooring boards. The latter option is quite labor-intensive, so most often 5 x 6 cm bars are used to create support.

To calculate the required number of bars, it is enough to count the number of beams and multiply them by the length of each of them. We multiply the resulting footage (the total length of all beams) by two more (since the bars will be packed on both sides of each beam).

For finishing flooring you can use widest spectrum materials. This can be plank flooring, plywood, chipboard panels, MDF, OSB, etc. Each of these materials has its own advantages and disadvantages, after reading which you can choose one of them. To calculate required quantity material, it is enough to simply calculate the area of ​​​​the room.

When purchasing building material, you should always purchase it with a reserve of 10–15%, since during construction unforeseen material overruns are inevitable.

This will save you from having to interrupt your work and buy the missing part.

Impregnations


Antiseptic will extend the life of wood

To maximize the service life of wooden structures, they must be treated with antiseptic materials.

It would also be useful to treat the wood with fire retardants, which increase its fire safety.

To calculate the required amount of impregnation, you should read the instructions for its use - the approximate consumption of the mixture per sq.m. is always indicated there.

Waterproofing

Since wood is afraid of moisture, waterproofing materials are always used during construction.

It could be roll waterproofing, used to create a water-repellent layer between wooden floor structures and the finishing coating, or between wood and brick (stone, cinder block, etc.).

To protect wood from dampness, you can also use coating waterproofing, created on the basis of polymers or liquid bitumen.

Heat and sound insulation

If it is necessary to create a barrier to noise or cold, insulating materials are used in the construction of floors. Most often, mini-slabs or polystyrene foam are used for these purposes. Their total number in area should be approximately equal to the area of ​​the room. For more information about floor insulation, watch this video:

Expanded clay or ordinary slag mixed with sawdust can also be used as an insulating material.

Fastening materials

For fastening wooden elements floors, you should purchase screws, nails, steel angles, anchor bolts, etc. consumables. When purchasing screws and nails, you should pay attention to their length.

According to the standards, for a strong connection, the nail must be 2/3 longer than the thickness of the element being attached (board, block). For self-tapping screws and self-tapping screws, this figure can be reduced to 50%.

Those. To securely attach a magpie board to a beam, you will need 120 mm nails or 80 mm long self-tapping screws.

After everything necessary materials purchased, and all preparations are completed, you can proceed directly to construction work. The construction of interfloor slabs can be divided into several main stages.


The part of the beam inserted into the wall is wrapped in three layers waterproofing material

The installation of load-bearing beams is most often carried out during the construction of the walls of the building. Before laying the load-bearing beams, their surface is treated with all necessary impregnations.

Then their ends are cut at an angle of 60° and the part that will be walled up in the wall is wrapped in 2-3 layers of rolled waterproofing.

The ends of the beams are usually also coated with waterproofing compounds, but some experts advise leaving them open to allow the moisture contained in the wood to freely escape.

The depth of inserting the beams into the wall should be at least 15 cm. The laying step of the beams is usually taken at 0.6 m, but depending on the expected load on the floors, as well as the thickness of the beam section, this figure can be reduced or increased.

The choice of interval between beams is also influenced by the technical characteristics of the material used for the finished floor.

If the top flooring is supposed to be made of inch boards, plywood or chipboard, then the distance between the beams should not exceed half a meter, otherwise the floors will sag when walking. For more information about installing beams, watch this video:


Floor joists must lie in the same plane

The installation of load-bearing beams begins from the two outer walls, while the beams should be located at a distance of 5 - 10 cm. After installing the two outer beams, we install the rest, observing the required interval.

When laying beams, special attention should be paid to the horizontal slope: all floor beams must lie in the same plane. To do this, place an edged board between the two outer beams, or pull the twine tightly.

If the base on which the beams are laid is uneven, then mortgages should be installed under the ends of the beams to level the horizontal level. For mortgages, a material that is resistant to rotting and physical stress is used - metal plates, pieces of tiles, etc.

It is not recommended to use wooden wedges to adjust the level of beams, as they can quickly rot, which will cause individual floor beams to lower and bend the floor line.

The load-bearing beams are attached to the wall using anchor bolts and steel corners.

Fastening the support bars

After all the floor beams have been exposed, bars with a cross section of 5 x 6 cm (the so-called “cranial” bars) are attached to them. They serve as a support for laying the subfloor and are attached along the entire length of the supporting beam, on both sides.

They should be nailed in such a way that their lower part is flush with the lower part of the beams.


Most often, the subfloor is made from inch boards

To install the subfloor, take edged boards and are laid across the beams on support bars. Since the distance between the beams usually does not exceed 0.6 - 0.8 m, then an inch or thirty board is quite suitable for subfloors: the pressure on them will be limited only by the weight of the insulation.

You can also use a trimmed slab for these purposes. You can also combine the subfloors of the second floor with the finished ceilings of the first floor or basement. In this case, the edged boards are hemmed from below, from the side of the first floor to the beams. For more information about the draft field, watch this video:

Thermal insulation flooring

After installing the subfloors, compartments are formed between the beams, which, if necessary, can be filled with thermal insulation materials.

To do this, a hydro- or vapor barrier (roofing felt, isospan, etc.) is laid on top of the subfloor boards, and then mineral wool, polystyrene foam, slag with sawdust, etc. are laid.

In this case, the entire space between the bars must be densely filled. We fill the gaps between the beams and the foam sheets with sealant.

It is also advisable to lay waterproofing on top of the insulation, which will protect it from moisture leaks from above.

The final stage will be the finishing flooring, which is attached on top of the load-bearing beams using self-tapping screws or nails.

To do this, the material (boards, OSB, plywood) is cut so that their joint falls in the middle of the beam. The finished floor is the basis for the finishing coating - laminate, linoleum, parquet.

Requirements for second floor floors, popular flooring designs and materials for them, installation technology in wooden and brick houses.

Contents of the article:

Installing a floor on the second floor is the construction of a flooring with an attractive appearance with good performance characteristics. The technology for assembling the structure depends on the layout of the interfloor floors and the purpose of the premises on the first level. The types of floors on the second floor and the features of assembly work will be discussed in this article.

The main types of flooring on the second floor


The design of the floors on the second floor depends on several factors, the main one being the method of forming the interfloor ceiling. If the base is wooden, the flooring is laid on beams or joists. In the case of using reinforced concrete slabs, the material is placed on logs.

Here is a description of the main types of floors for the second floor of a house:

  • Floors on beams. In this design, the flooring is mounted directly on the logs that support the floor. Support structures (beams) are the foundation of the floor, its strength elements. The work is carried out during the construction phase of the entire building. The shape of the beam can be different - rectangular, round, square. Blanks for beams are sold unfinished and require preliminary finishing before laying in a regular place, which increases installation time. Strength elements made from rough wood have advantages over logs - they are cheaper and more resistant to loads. But the structure has poor sound insulation, because... profiles are placed in the frame part of the building.
  • Floors on joists. Joists are necessary to obtain high-quality flooring in floor structures. In wooden houses, these elements are laid directly on the power beams. The blanks have a rectangular cross-section of standard sizes and do not require pre-treatment. Installation of floors on joists is quick thanks to precise dimensions and smooth surfaces. During operation, the flooring is isolated from the walls and load-bearing profiles, which increases the heat and sound insulation of the room. Disadvantages include a reduction in the distance between the floorboards and the ceiling after assembling the structure and the high cost of the material.
  • . Concrete floors The floors of the second floor can withstand much greater loads than wooden floors; heavy structures can be mounted on them. The supports for the boards are logs, which can be installed on a pre-leveled surface or on technological pads. As insulation, you can use the most environmentally friendly high-quality insulator - expanded clay. It has significant weight, so it is not used in wooden structures.

Requirements for the floors of rooms in a multi-level house


The floor of the second floor must meet the following requirements:
  1. Have maximum rigidity and minimum deflection. The ceiling must withstand its own weight and the load from furniture, household appliances, people, etc.
  2. The design is simple and corresponds to construction technologies.
  3. The materials used are not afraid of moisture, have a long service life, and are resistant to abrasion.
  4. The flooring is made in a fireproof design, and its fire resistance limit corresponds to the permissible values ​​for this material. For wooden floors without protective coating this value is less than 15 minutes.
  5. The ceiling has good sound insulation and complies with special standards for residential premises.
  6. If the temperature difference on different floors is greater than 10 degrees, the floor must be insulated.
  7. The load-bearing capacity of the deck corresponds to the operational load of the entire building.
  8. The appearance of the floor should be attractive and not differ from the style of the room.

Selection of materials for second floor floors

The design of the floors of the second floor consists of the following main elements: base, rough covering, heat and sound insulation, waterproofing. The choice of materials depends on the load on the coating and the conditions under which it will be used.

Power beams for floor installation


Profiles for decking are most often made from coniferous trees - pine or larch, which have high bending strength. Bars from hardwood may bend after applying load. When purchasing, make sure that the samples are free of knots, cracks, rot and other defects.

Before making the floor on the second floor, determine the load capacity and size of the logs. For calculations, you can use simple computer programs or use ready-made, proven designs.

The shape of the deck can be different - rectangular, round, square. Classic version power beam - timber 140-240 mm high and 50-160 mm wide. The size of the section depends on the load, the size of the span and the step between the products. The beams are laid along a short span with a maximum length of 6 m. Optimal length supporting structures- 4 m.

Logs for the floors of residential premises must withstand a load of 350-400 kg/m2, for non-residential non-operational premises - 200 kg/m2. If there is a concentrated load, for example, from a bath or boiler, special calculations are performed.

A product of greater length will sag under its own weight and lead to deformation of the structure. If necessary, supports are installed on the ground floor to support the ceiling structure.

Instead of supports, you can use reinforced beams (purlins) on which other beams rest. The ratio of the purlin height to the span length should be 1:20. For example, for a span of 5 m, choose a support with a height of 200-225 mm and a thickness of 80-150 mm.

Glued purlins are sold at construction markets rectangular shape and I-beams wooden structures from decks and boards. In the first version, the profiles are based on top part run. When using an I-beam, the decks are placed on the lower shelf of the product, reducing the height of the structure.

Logs for creating flooring


They are made from coniferous trees, whose material is soft, easy to process, and inexpensive. You can use bars of the second or third grade with a moisture content of up to 18%. More durable oak or hardwood samples, but they are considered elite materials and are expensive.

The beam should be rectangular, and its width should be 1.5-2 times less than its height. Profiles with such proportions can withstand the greatest load. Products with cross-sectional dimensions of 75x150 mm are popular.

The cross-section of the logs depends on the distance between the beams and is calculated using special tables. If the span width is intermediate, choose larger size joists.

Product required thickness You can make it yourself by connecting two boards together. If the height is less than the width, the product is placed on its edge.

Choose the height of the beam 3-4 mm greater than the thickness of the protective layer, so that there is space under the flooring for ventilation.

Insulators for floor installation


For heat and sound insulation, roll or block materials (basalt wool, glass wool, polystyrene foam) are used. The protective layer is laid with a thickness of 50 to 200 mm, depending on the height of the floors of the second floor.

It consists of several levels:

  • The lower part of the ceiling is protected from moisture with a vapor barrier film (glassine, polyethylene sheets).
  • For sound insulation, you can use conventional heat-insulating coatings made of basalt wool or glass wool with a density of 40-45 kg/m3. A greater effect can be achieved by laying special materials such as “shumanet”.
  • If the first floor is cold, the floors are insulated basalt wool, glass wool or polystyrene foam. The temperature of the external floor covering should differ from the temperature in the room by no more than 2 degrees. Ideal option Preservation of heat in the room is the use of mineral wool. Foam plastic, expanded clay, and sawdust are also used for these purposes.
  • Cover the “pie” with waterproofing material.
IN different rooms The composition of the protective layer may differ:
  1. The flooring in the nursery should be environmentally friendly and have impact sound insulation.
  2. If there is a shower, bathtub, or swimming pool on the ground floor, be sure to build protection against moisture.
  3. Waterproofing is not required when using EPS insulation.
  4. If the structure will not get water from above, you do not need to lay a moisture-proof film over the insulation.
  5. The floors in heated rooms located above living spaces do not need to be insulated, but sound insulation is required.

Lumber for the floor on the second floor


Select the type of wood for the platform depending on the operational load of the floor. In rooms that are rarely visited, pine, fir and spruce lumber is laid, which, due to its softness, is not recommended for use, for example, in the corridor. Durable solid oak and hardwood can be placed in any room, but they are expensive. In children's rooms and bedrooms it is better to make alder and aspen floors.

The choice of lumber grade depends on the finishing coating, financial capabilities and other factors:

  1. First grade materials are usually varnished and used as finishing materials.
  2. Second grade lumber is painted.
  3. Third grade boards are covered with linoleum on top or used in utility rooms.
  4. The finishing coating is made from regular boards, plywood, OSB. To receive flat surface It is better to use tongue and groove material.
  5. The top layer can also improve the sound insulation of the room if massive slab materials, for example, DSP.
  6. The tongue and groove boards fit tightly to each other and also do not allow extraneous sounds to pass through.
  7. The humidity of the workpieces should not exceed 12%, otherwise after drying large gaps will appear between the floorboards.
  8. Please check the product for defects before purchasing. The surfaces of the beams must be parallel, otherwise it will be very difficult to ensure horizontality.

Installation of the second floor floor on power beams

The laying of the platform on the interfloor profiles is carried out at the construction stage of the building. The final result depends not only on the finishing coating, but also largely on the laying of the load-bearing elements on the walls.

Installing timber on walls


The flooring is attached to load-bearing beams that form interfloor covering, without intermediate elements. Work on the installation of the floor of the second floor is carried out in the following sequence:
  • Cover the beams with antiseptics and fire retardants.
  • Make openings in the walls for beams. If the partitions are brick or concrete, grooves (sockets) are made. In log structures, provide recesses with a depth of at least 150 mm (for beams) or at least 100 mm (for boards). The step between openings should be within 0.6-1 m.
  • The first log is placed at a distance of at least 50 mm from the wall, the rest - evenly between the outermost elements.
  • Decks can be attached to the wall in other ways. For example, if you cut grooves in a partition “ dovetail", and make protrusions of the same shape in the log. Another option is to pre-fix the corners or brackets to the walls with self-tapping screws or anchors and place beams on them. The latter method allows you to quickly create an overlap, but in operation the connection is not very reliable.
  • Cut the ends of the profiles at an angle of 60 degrees.
  • Cover the ends of the logs that rest on the walls with bitumen and wrap them with two layers of roofing material for waterproofing. Do not insulate the cut ends; they must remain in this form for ventilation.
  • Prepare scraps of boards 30-40 mm thick, soak them with waterproofing agents and antiseptics. Place the samples in the bottom of the joist recesses.
  • Lower the beams onto the planks and leave 30-50 mm gaps between them and the walls on all sides.
  • Check the level of the timber with a level. If necessary, make wooden dies of different thicknesses, coat them with resin and dry.
  • Place shims under the edge of the beam and eliminate the slope.
  • Put all the lumber in its place in the same way.
  • Check the location of the upper surfaces of all products in one horizontal plane using a building level. If necessary, remove tilts.
  • Seal gaps between wood and wall mineral wool or tow, which will prevent the penetration of cold air. Fasten every fifth sample to the wall with anchors.

Assembly of the floor structure


The order of assembling the floor structure and its fastening is carried out in the following sequence:
  1. Fasten the 50x50 mm cranial bars flush with the bottom base of the beam.
  2. Place the subfloor elements on them and secure them on the first floor side with self-tapping screws. When installing, check the horizontal level of the bottom flooring.
  3. To protect against damp fumes, lay glassine or plastic film on the floor. They are laid over the logs with an overlap of 10 cm and secured with a stapler. Tape the joints with construction tape.
  4. Place a roll or panel on the vapor barrier insulating material. Check that there are no cracks on the floor. When installed in two layers, the slabs must overlap the joints of the bottom row.
  5. Cover the insulation plastic film, seal all gaps between the material and the base.
  6. After installing the insulation, subfloor boards are laid on the power elements. The material of the platform depends on the finishing coating. For example, linoleum or parquet boards are laid on plywood 10-12 mm thick.
  7. Laying the floor on the second floor is completed after making holes in the corners of the room for ventilation of the underground space.

Laying the second floor floor on joists


The construction of flooring and joists is used in rooms with high ceilings, because the beams raise the flooring. It can be installed at any stage of construction, even in a residential building.
  • In the load-bearing beams, make grooves for the logs in increments of 30-40 cm. The distances between them depend on the thickness of the rough flooring and the type of finishing coating; the values ​​can be found in special tables. For example, if you use for rough coating sheet material(plywood or chipboard 16 mm thick), the distance between the beams along the axes is left 30 cm. If boards 20 mm thick are used, the step is increased to 40 cm. The first opening should be at a distance of 20-30 cm from the wall.
  • Place the logs in the made recesses with the smaller side.
  • Check the location of the upper surface of the joists in the horizontal plane. If necessary, perform the leveling procedure using shims under the beams.
  • Secure the beams to the power elements with nails or self-tapping screws. In the latter case, holes are pre-made.
  • Attach boards or bars to the bottom of the joists to create a subfloor.
  • Place plywood or other lumber that can support the insulation on the manufactured supports.
  • Cover the prepared base with a vapor barrier film. Seal the joints of individual parts of the film with tape.
  • Place heat and sound insulation on the base. Make sure that there is a gap of 10-15 mm between the top of the joist and the insulation for floor ventilation.
  • Cover the “pie” with waterproofing film and secure with a stapler.
  • Place a finished floor made of plywood, boards or other materials on the joists and finally secure. The edges of the material must lie on the joists.

Flooring of the second floor on a concrete floor


Floor joists are indispensable if work is planned on concrete interfloor slabs. Beams are laid in two ways - on a cement screed or on wooden spacers. The first method involves preliminary leveling the surface of the slab horizontally.

The work is performed in the following sequence:

  1. Clean the stove from dirt.
  2. Seal with cement screed deep cracks, knock down protruding elements.
  3. Using a hydrostatic level, mark horizontal marks on the walls of the room, which will serve as guidelines for maximum floor filling.
  4. Prepare sand-cement mortar and fill the floor to the level of the marks on the wall.
  5. After drying, check the horizontal surface.
  6. Before installing the logs, waterproof the base, because Concrete absorbs moisture well. The operation is allowed not to be carried out if the first floor is heated and the building is dry.
  7. Decide on the orientation of the boards (and, accordingly, the joists) in the room. Unlike wooden floors, on which the beams are placed perpendicular to the load-bearing elements, on concrete slab beams can be fastened in any position. In hallways, corridors and other rooms with heavy operational load, floorboards are placed along the direction of movement. IN living rooms The boards are placed parallel to the light from the window.
  8. Place the logs on the film and secure them to the base with anchors.
To lay lags on spacers, you do not need to level the surface in advance. Place the beams on the slab at specified intervals and check that the top bases are level. Leveling is done using spacers that are installed between the beams and the slab.

Secure the wood to the slab using screws and dowels. Place the fasteners next to the gaskets. The further procedure for laying insulation and installing the finished floor is similar to assembling a platform on a wooden floor.

How to make a floor on the second floor - watch the video:


The installation of floors on the second floor is not fundamentally different from the work on the first floor. The main problems remain the arrangement of sound insulation of the floor and structural strength calculations. To ensure that the flooring can be used for as long as possible, follow the advice in our instructions.