A concrete floor on the ground in a private house is a long-known universal way of arranging a reliable and warm base. Through the use of new types of insulation, we get good thermal insulation the entire floor, which leads to reduced costs for public utilities. And also the insulation is a barrier to the penetration of moisture and the appearance of fungus and mold.

And the most important thing is that this type you can build the floor with your own hands. In this article we will analyze all the advantages and disadvantages. Let us consider in detail the arrangement of the floor on the ground.

Flooring on the ground: pros and cons

Let's start with the fact that this type of floor is “ layer cake" And each layer has its own functions and purpose, thanks to this device, the floor on the ground has a number of advantages:

There are not many disadvantages, but they are all there:

Cannot be used on unstable soils.

How to make the correct floor structure on the ground

We will consider the correct classic floor structure, which will consist of 9 layers. We will analyze each layer separately.

It’s worth saying right away that the number of layers may vary for each master and specialist, and the materials may also differ.

This type of flooring is ideal for a strip foundation. The average thickness of the “floor pie” is approximately 60-70 cm. This should be taken into account when constructing the foundation.

If your foundation height is not enough, then select soil to a given depth. Level the surface and compact it. For convenience, a scale should be applied in the corners along the entire perimeter in 5 cm increments, this will make it more convenient to navigate the layers and levels.

It is important that for compacting soil it is best to rent a vibrating plate, since manual method It will take a lot of time and will not give the same results as a special device.

Clay. If, while digging out the soil, you reach a layer of clay, then you should not fill in a new one. The layer thickness must be at least 10 cm.

Clay is sold in bags, pour it out and moisten it with a special solution (4 liters of water + 1 teaspoon liquid glass), and we carry out the tamping using a vibrating plate. After compacting, pour the clay layer with cement laitance (10 liters of water + 2 kg of cement).

We make sure there are no puddles. As soon as you pour this mixture onto the clay, the process of glass crystallization begins.

You shouldn’t do anything for a day; you should wait for the crystallization process to set in, and it will end in about 14-16 days. This layer prevents the main flow of water from entering the soil.

Layer of waterproofing material. The purpose of this layer is to protect the insulation from moisture. You can use roofing felt, polymer-bitumen materials, PVC membrane and polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.4 mm.

If you use roofing felt, it is preferable to lay it in two layers, on liquid bitumen. Lay waterproofing overlapping each other and on the walls.

10-15 cm between each other, and on the walls to the height of the floor level. Be sure to seal the seams with construction tape. You should walk on waterproofing material in soft shoes.

Insulation+ vapor barrier layer. Most best material for insulation it is extruded polystyrene foam (EPS). For reference, 5 cm thick EPS can replace a 70 cm layer of expanded clay.

But you can also use perlite concrete and sawdust concrete. The insulation sheets are laid without joints, so that one plane is formed.

The thickness is determined depending on the region, the recommended thickness of the insulation is 5-10 cm. Some use mats 5 cm thick, and lay two layers, with the seams offset, and the top seams are taped with special tape.

In order to remove cold bridges from the foundation or plinth, the insulation is laid vertically and secured using dowels with inside. Experts recommend insulating the base and the outside with one sheet of insulation and also securing it with dowels.

A layer of vapor barrier should be laid on top of the insulation. It is best to use PVC membranes as a vapor barrier material; they do not rot and have a long service life. The disadvantage of this material is its high cost.

The main task of a vapor barrier material is to protect the insulation from the harmful alkaline effects of concrete mortar. The material is laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm and glued with construction tape.

Smoothing is done using a rule or vibrating screed. As soon as the solution dries, the beacons should be removed and the cavities filled with the solution.

The entire concrete floor should be covered with film and watered periodically. In a month, the concrete will gain full strength. To pour concrete with my own hands, I make a solution of the following composition: cement + river sand in a ratio of 1 to 3.

In the case of using underfloor heating technology, water or electric. Be sure to install the rough floor screed on the ground.

After laying the insulation, pipes or wires are laid. Then we fill the cavities with concrete, lay the reinforcing elements and continue pouring concrete to the specified level.

The technology of floors on the ground can be used not only in brick and stone houses, but it’s the same in houses made of wood. At the right approach And correct calculations, layers do not harm wooden elements.

Finish flooring . The resulting concrete surface is suitable for any type of finished floor covering. It all depends on your preferences and financial capabilities.

As mentioned above, the combination of components and the number of layers may vary. It all depends on your finances and capabilities.

Conclusion

As we all know, 20 to 30% of the heat can escape through the floor. In cases where there is no “warm floor” system, the floors should be as thermally insulated as possible, and this in turn increases the energy efficiency of the entire house.

The owner of a private house receives comfort, coziness and savings on utility bills. Ground floors with insulation are a highly effective and long-term choice for every owner.

When arranging a concrete floor in a private house, the option of laying it on the ground with simultaneous insulation is most often chosen. This method allows you to obtain a durable monolithic screed, suitable for laying any floor covering, with average investment and labor costs and prevent heat loss through the bottom of the building. All stages of the work can be done with your own hands, in mandatory requirements technologies include correct alternation and sufficient thickness of layers of the pie.

The structure is a multi-layer cake laid on dry and stable layers of soil, taking into account a pre-measured level. TO mandatory conditions its construction includes a groundwater level below 4.5-5 m, the presence of an established foundation and constant heating. The standard scheme includes the following layers (from bottom to top):

1. Compacted soil, similar to monolithic slab accepting the main weight loads.

2. At least 10 cm of sand, which reduces the forces of frost heaving of the soil and performs drainage functions.

3. From 10 cm or more of compacted crushed stone and/or expanded clay, distributing weight loads and preventing subsidence and displacement of the remaining layers of the floor.

4. Flooring waterproofing materials, combining two protection functions: against capillary moisture and water loss when pouring the solution. In this case, it is the rolled varieties that have the optimal characteristics, laid with a mandatory overlap of 10 cm and above.

5. Rough base, which performs separating, load-bearing and protective functions.

6. Insulation layer made of polystyrene foam or stone wool.

7. Another waterproofing that protects against getting wet and extends the life of the cake.

8. Reinforced screed with a thickness of at least 5 cm, which performs the main load-bearing functions and serves as the basis for the installation of floor building materials.

The given diagram is the only possible one, filling concrete base on top of beams is extremely difficult due to its massiveness. The resulting screed can withstand significant loads, including its own weight, the weight of furniture and floors, and is suitable for installation of any type of floor covering: from self-leveling mixtures to light linoleum. More information about pouring concrete floors you will find .

What to consider at the preparation stage?

The main requirement is the presence of a stable load-bearing layer; when conducting construction on sites with an unsuitable type, the feasibility of soil sampling and its replacement is considered. In other cases, the emphasis is on compaction and leveling. Work begins with markings - a zero level is marked along the entire perimeter of the premises of a private house and a cord is pulled, after which the soil is removed to the required depth (if necessary, on the contrary, it is added). Chernozem or soils with high content It is recommended to select organics until stable layers are achieved; loams and sandy loams are simply leveled. High-quality compaction without the right tool It is difficult to do it yourself; at this stage it is advisable to use a vibrating plate; if it is not available, a log with a nailed handle is used.

Sand and crushed stone are poured in layers (from 10 cm each), ensuring the maximum possible shrinkage. On heaving and frozen soils, the thickness of the first layer is increased to 20 cm; under normal conditions, 10-15 cm is sufficient. Sand is watered and compacted every 10 cm; its quality and grain size do not play a special role, but small and dusty varieties are not recommended to be used.

The next layer is filled with dense crushed stone or gravel with a large fraction (20-40 mm, from 1000 kg/m 3). Dolomite rocks are not suitable for it due to their low grade strength. By analogy with sand, this layer is carefully compacted (but without watering). In order to increase waterproofing properties, it can be impregnated with liquid bitumen, and thermal insulation properties can be covered with expanded clay.

The preparation stage is completed by rough concreting - a thin layer of lean mortar with a strength grade within M100. There is no need to thoroughly smooth it out, but air must be forced out. The thickness of the layer in this case depends on the soil parameters and expected loads and varies from 3 to 10 cm; when construction is carried out on stable and dry soils, it can be replaced by pouring cement laitance on top of crushed stone; if there is a risk of frost heaving and there is a significant weight of the structures, the feasibility of reinforcing with metal is considered .

Nuances of thermal insulation and reinforcement

Taking into account high thermal conductivity concrete surfaces, the presence of an insulating layer between them and the ground is mandatory. Moisture-resistant varieties have suitable characteristics: foam chips or foam boards impregnated with water-repellent compounds stone wool, expanded clay or perlite granules. The thickness is determined by thermal engineering calculations, in middle lane In the Russian Federation, the recommended minimum is 50 mm of extruded polystyrene foam, in northern latitudes - at least 100. The insulation is placed over a flooring made of polyethylene film or roofing felt, protecting it on the sides from moisture. The second waterproofing layer is made of similar materials, with an upward bend of 15-20 cm and fixation. The stage is completed by placing damper tape or strips of polystyrene foam around the perimeter of the room and around support columns, if any.

Reinforcing products are placed on top of plastic supports at a distance of 3-5 cm from the top layer of waterproofing. A metal mesh made of wire with a cross-section of about 3 mm and a mesh interval of 5 × 5 has suitable characteristics. It is important to leave the plastic film or membranes intact; getting the insulation wet during the process is unacceptable. Simultaneously with the reinforcement, the installation of beacons is carried out: taking into account the future level and the recommended minimum thickness of the screed of 5 cm, on mortar or welded to a fixed element.

T-shaped plaster or regular galvanized profiles or even rods are used as beacons; the placement step depends on the length of the rule (10-15 cm less) and the experience of the installers.

Instructions for concreting

To the very important stage begin after the composition has set under the leveling elements. Taking into account the high expected loads, a strength grade of at least M200 is required, which does not form cracks after hardening. The recommended ratio of binder and filler is 1:3 (PC M400 or M500 and sand) or 1:2:4 (PC, sand, fine crushed stone, respectively); if you doubt the quality of the components or the possibility of maintaining exact proportions, it is better to use ready-made dry mixtures, in particular – sand concrete.

An important requirement is a monolithic screed; in case of a large amount of work, prepare and level it yourself required quantity extremely difficult, the forces of at least two people are involved. In any case, the mixture is stirred mechanically (using a concrete mixer or mixer), and not with your own hands. Filling is carried out from the far corner, while simultaneously leveling and compacting the resulting area. The process is completed by removing the beacons and carefully filling the holes, then the surface is covered with a film and gains strength within 28 days with constant wetting in the first week.

Ideally, the thickness of each layer is justified by calculation; when choosing insulation, it is mandatory. The use of expanded clay when laying floors requires caution: if there is a risk of flooding or constant dampness, it is prone to moisture accumulation and increases the severity of frost heaving. The only problem-free insulation is foam plastic: taking into account the pouring of concrete on all sides, its poor flammability does not matter; minimum thickness The layer effectively retains heat. If there is any doubt about the water supply system, a drainage system is placed around a private house.

TO possible errors and technology violations include:

• Lack of compensatory materials around the perimeter of the room. Ignoring the laying of the damper tape leads to cracking of the screed when thermal expansion concrete.
• Filling when the groundwater level is less than 2 m on the surface, ensure reliable waterproofing in this case it will not work; dampness will penetrate inside the private house. The ideal occurrence is 4.5-5 m and below.
• Laying materials susceptible to rotting under the leveling beacons, this leads to subsidence of concrete floors during operation.
• Laying the insulating layer below the zero mark in the absence of a thermally insulated base, such a mistake is fraught with the formation of a freezing zone.

Floors on the ground are an economical option for construction country house on strip foundation. During the arrangement, costs are kept to a minimum, since publicly available materials and tools are used. Concrete in quality construction mixture for screeds, it is most popular due to its availability, low cost, ease of manufacture, high strength and durability.

Requirements for a concrete floor on the ground

Despite the absence of the need for special skills, there are some requirements for installing a concrete floor:

1. The soils must be dry and motionless with a minimum groundwater level of 4-5 meters.
2. It is recommended to first determine the size of the planned load.
3. Choose a pouring technology: conventional screeds on the ground or concrete screeds with joists.

When groundwater occurs closer than two meters to the foundation, waterproofing with coarse crushed stone is required. If “warm floor” technology is used, it will be necessary to construct a thermal gap of 20 mm between the concrete floor and the wall so as not to damage the pouring during operation.

on the ground should only be built in a heated country house. Otherwise, freezing of the soil may occur, which will cause deformation of the structure due to increased loads. It is recommended to fill the floor when the walls and roof are erected, which will improve the quality of the work performed.

The virtues of the sexes

Advantages of screeds installed in open ground:

• cost-effectiveness compared to conventional designs;
• simplicity and ease of installation;
• high reliability, strength and stability;
• increased frost resistance;
• ease of installation of heated floors.

Manufacturing technology

To concrete floors on soil with your own hands, you will need a mixture of cement, sand, crushed stone or gravel. To calculate the quantity required solution you need to multiply the area of ​​the room by the thickness of all layers of the structure. The concrete mixture is prepared in a ratio of 1: 2: 3 (cement: sand: gravel or). You can use ready-mixed concrete. To do this, one volume of cement will require 6 volumes of crushed stone with a particle size of 20 mm and 3 volumes of sharp-angled sand.

To prepare large quantities of concrete you need a concrete mixer. First, the dry components of the mixture with the above composition are poured into the mixer 2/3 full. After thorough mixing, water is added in portions until a sufficiently plastic solution is obtained. You can start preparing the next portions by adding water. At the end construction work The concrete mixer needs to be cleaned and washed.

Level marking

The zero level of the concrete floor is laid in two stages:

1. 1 meter is measured from the bottom of the door opening, which is transferred to all perimeter walls.
2. From the drawn top line, 1 meter is again measured down, and beacons are placed for the future floor.

Filling is carried out to the resulting zero level. For easy orientation along the edges, nails are driven into the corners, onto which a steel thread is pulled.

Clearing and compacting soil

Preparing the site for pouring is carried out in several stages:

1. Cleaning the soil from debris.
2. Removal of the top layer of soil corresponding to the thickness of the future multi-layer floor - 30-40 cm.
3. Thorough compaction of the surface using a vibrating plate. In the absence of special equipment, compaction is carried out regular board or a log. When there are no deep footprints left, the soil is considered sufficiently compacted.

If the thickness of the removable layer of earth is more than 40 cm, sand should be added to the required level after compaction.

To increase the soil, the soil is covered with clay, which is watered and thoroughly compacted. Then sand is poured. Such a “cushion” will prevent groundwater leakage.

Laying layers with gravel, sand and crushed stone

A bed of gravel, sand and crushed stone for the garage floor.

The next layer is a gravel layer 5-10 cm thick. For more precise definition At the required level, pegs of the required height are driven in. The resulting layer is watered, compacted, and the beacons are removed. Then ravine sand 10 cm thick is laid (possibly with impurities). The layer is watered and compacted.

The next layer of crushed stone with a grain size of 40-50 mm is just being compacted. There should be no protruding edges on the surface. All layers of the concrete floor are leveled horizontally using a building level.

Waterproofing and thermal insulation

In order to increase the waterproofing properties of a concrete floor in a country house, an additional layer of polyethylene film 0.02 cm thick should be laid. As an alternative, a waterproofing membrane is used. The entire area of ​​the room needs to be insulated from possible moisture with an overlap of 2 cm on the walls and between the sheets. The joints are taped with tape.

Exists wide range materials to increase thermal insulation: polystyrene foam, expanded clay, regular or extruded polystyrene foam, stone-basalt or mineral wool, perlite, cork products, isolon in rolls, thick moisture-resistant plywood. Thermal insulation is laid after waterproofing.

Reinforcement

The required strength of the concrete screed is achieved by reinforcement with metal or plastic mesh. You can also use reinforcing bars or wire. To lay the reinforcing frame, you need to build supports 2-3 cm high.

Installation of guides and formwork

Guides and formwork will help you most accurately maintain the level when pouring concrete. To do this, the area of ​​the future floor is divided into equal sections. Boards or bars with a height level with the zero level are laid on the markings. The guides are fixed with a thick solution of sand-cement and clay. The formwork is mounted between boards made of moisture resistant plywood to form honeycombs. With their help, pouring concrete will correspond to the zero mark. It is recommended to coat the formwork and guides with special oil, which will facilitate the process of dismantling them.

There are two ways to lay floors in a private house: concreting on the ground or on beams and slabs. The technology for carrying out the work varies radically; the choice of the desired method depends, first of all, on the groundwater level and dryness of the soil. The first option is cheaper, it is easy to do it yourself, and the pouring is suitable for all types of foundations, except piles. In this case, the concrete floor is a reinforced screed on top of compacted soil, heat and waterproofing layers building materials, each of which has a different thickness and its own functional purpose. If the technology requirements are met, the result is a smooth, strong and durable coating that is fully suitable for decorative flooring. finishing any type and can withstand significant operating loads.

There are certain requirements for floors in a private house laid directly on the ground. For example, concreting is allowed when:

• The depth of groundwater is at least 5 m.
• The presence of constant heating in a private house, since freezing of the soil leads to an increase in the load on the foundation.
• Dry and motionless ground.
• An established foundation.

Pouring a concrete floor is advisable when building a private house with a basement or ground floor. Work begins after the walls and roof are erected and proceeds according to the following scheme:

1. Level marking.

2. Leveling and compacting the soil.

3. Backfilling with sand, gravel and crushed stone.

4. Installation of hydro- and thermal insulation.

5. Reinforcement.

6. Laying the formwork and installing guide beacons.

7. Pouring the mortar, leveling and final screed.

Floor marking and soil preparation

The fixator is the lowest point of future doorways, to create an even line, marks are placed on the wall at a height of 1 m. Next, a “zero” level is formed along the entire perimeter: 1 m is measured down, for convenience, nails are hammered in the corners and the cord is pulled. After this, all construction debris is removed and leveling and compaction of the soil begins. The thickness required for a multilayer structure is 30–35 cm. In some cases it is necessary to remove excess soil, in others it is necessary to add additional soil (preferably sand). It is better to do compaction not with your own hands, but with the help of a vibrating plate; if such equipment is not available, then an ordinary log is used. At the exit there should be a flat and dense soil surface, without sagging underfoot.

The next step is backfilling and compacting clean river sand, to control the floor level, it is recommended to drive in special pegs. Gravel, expanded clay or crushed stone is placed and leveled on top of the 5 cm base layer of sandy waterproofing; the backfill is washed with water to compact and level the stones. The thickness of this layer is about 10 cm; to enhance its hydrophobic properties, experts recommend filling it with liquid bitumen. This arrangement of a concrete floor on the ground is carried out to protect against capillary penetration of moisture.

There are two options for the top layer: rough concrete screed (6–8 cm) or filling with crushed stone of smaller fractions mixed with liquid cement mortar. All sharp stone edges are removed, each layer is checked for horizontal deviations.

Thermal insulation and reinforcement

The next stage is related to the insulation of the concrete floor in a private house and strengthening its load-bearing capacity. The following heat-insulating materials are often used: polystyrene foam, mineral wool (stone basalt is best suited), expanded polystyrene, perlite, moisture-resistant plywood and cork. For additional protection from moisture, a bottom layer of roofing material or film is laid. When using a waterproofing membrane, carefully study the instructions to determine the required installation side. The insulation on top is also protected by a thin film.

In order to enhance the load-bearing capacity of the concrete floor, the future screed is reinforced. To do this, you will need a metal (less often plastic) mesh with a rod thickness of at least 3 mm. It is laid according to the usual checkerboard pattern, the minimum step is 10x10 cm. The higher the expected loads, the thicker the reinforcement should be; the joints are connected by welding. Next, leveling beacons are placed and finishing concreting is carried out.

Pouring technology

The guides are laid according to a pre-marked pattern in increments of 2 m, usually a board, thin beam or metal profile. They are fixed thick concrete mortar, the upper level is brought to the “zero” mark. A formwork made of moisture-resistant plywood is installed between them; all elements that will be removed from the solution are treated with oil. It is advisable to carry out the finishing screed of a concrete floor in one go, since the solidity and reliability of the structure depends on this.

To create the solution, cement with a frost resistance of 400, clean sifted sand, fine crushed stone and water is used. The proportions are respectively: 1:2:4:0.5. Be sure to use a concrete mixer this stage The work is difficult to carry out independently; it is advisable to invite a partner. The starting point for pouring is the corner opposite the door; several areas are poured at once; the solution is leveled from above with a shovel. The recommended thickness of the concrete layer at this stage is 5 cm. A vibrating plate is used to compact and fill the voids.

Filled areas are equal to a long rule, excess is removed, concrete solution is added in the right places. After this, the guides and formwork are removed, the process is repeated until the entire area of ​​the room is completely filled. Ready concrete surface cover with film and leave for 3-4 weeks until final hardening; to avoid cracks, it is moistened with water at least once a day. Self-leveling mixtures are used as the finishing fill; they are applied and leveled in the same way: from the far corner to the door. The minimum period required for them to dry is 3 days, a more precise value is indicated in the instructions.

A prerequisite for high-quality concreting is compaction and checking the horizontalness of each layer. Finish concrete screed carried out exclusively by lighthouses. If you install a heated floor yourself in a private house, a thermal gap of about 1–2 cm is provided (foamed polyurethane or polyethylene), it is needed to prevent the formation of cracks. The height of the level depends on the insulation of the base; if it has been carried out, then the “zero” can be placed either above or below the foundation. If not, then the concrete floor should not be made lower than the top part, in order to avoid the appearance of freezing zones.

It is important not to neglect thermal insulation; heat loss in a private house through the bottom is at least 20%. To enhance waterproofing, a thin layer of clay can be laid on the ground; it must be watered and compacted. When erecting a building on damp soils, expanded clay cannot be used due to its absorption properties (which increase with winter period). Also, this material is undesirable as the main insulation.

To achieve the desired characteristics of protection from cold, you will need a layer of expanded clay of at least 80 cm - it is much easier to lay foam boards 5 cm thick. A common mistake when working with concrete floors is the filling of a waterproofing layer from construction waste, large or sharp stones.

In the process of construction and arrangement basements, garages, various outbuildings, and sometimes even residential premises (of course, in regions with a warm, mild climate), developers often prefer technology that involves installing a concrete floor on the ground.

After reading the information below, you will receive all the necessary information to independently carry out the event in question, refusing to involve third-party craftsmen in this work and significantly saving on the construction of the floor.

Before giving preference to the construction technology of the design in question, familiarize yourself with the key soil requirements given in the following table.

Table. Soil requirements for constructing a reliable concrete floor

Additionally, requirements are imposed directly on the building itself. It is important that the house is used for permanent residence or at least heated during the cold season. Otherwise, the ground will freeze, causing the concrete structure to deform.

Scheme of floors on the ground for a private house, garage, utility room

Technology for installing concrete floors on the ground

We make the floor after completing the construction of the walls and arranging the roof/floor. The actual work on constructing the structure in question on the ground consists of several technological stages, the execution sequence of which is given below.

First stage. Marking the floor level

First we need to set the zero level of the future floor. To do this we do the following:

Second stage. Clearing and compacting the soil

Let's move on to the stage preliminary preparation soil. First we need to get rid of construction waste if there is any. Next we remove the top ball of soil. Traditionally multi-layer construction The concrete floor has a thickness of about 30-35 cm. We dig until the distance between the previously laid zero level line and the bottom of the pit reaches the specified value.

After this, we need to compact and level the surface. Best tool To perform this work, use a special vibrating plate for compacting soil. If there is no such thing, we take a simple log, nail strong handles on top of it, nail a board underneath and use the resulting device to compact the soil. We work until we get a fairly dense and even base. No special checks are required: just walk on the ground and, if there are no indentations left in it from your feet, proceed to further stage work.

Hand digging is never perfectly accurate. If the depth of the pit is greater than the required thickness of the future concrete structure, fill the difference with a layer of sand and compact it thoroughly.

Useful advice! You can use another solution to the above problem by first laying a layer of clay, pouring it with water, compacting it, filling it with sand and further compacting it. Such a system will provide additional waterproofing of the future concrete structure, preventing groundwater penetrate its structure.

Third stage. Making the backfill

We fill in a 5-10 cm layer of gravel. We spill the backfill with water and compact it thoroughly. For greater convenience, we can first drive several rows of scraps of reinforcement or other similar material of the required length into the ground - this will make it easier for us to ensure the required backfill height. It is important that the trimmings are strictly level. After arranging each planned layer, the pegs can be removed.

Place about a 10cm layer of sand on top of the gravel. The pegs from the previous stage will help us control the thickness of the backfill. To carry out this activity, it is not necessary to use sifted material - even gully sand with minor impurities will do. We also compact the sand thoroughly.

Place a layer of crushed stone on top of the sand. Optimal suitable material fractions 4-5 cm. Compact the crushed stone. Sprinkle on top thin layer sand, carefully level it and compact it thoroughly. If we find crushed stone with sharp protruding edges, we remove it or rearrange it so that there are no sharp corners throughout the entire plane.

Important! Each layer of backfill must be level. Similar requirements apply to the layers of the “pie” that are further arranged.

Fourth stage. We install moisture and heat insulation materials

To protect concrete from harmful effects moisture, we use a special waterproofing membrane or ordinary polyethylene film. A material with a thickness of 200 microns is optimal. The work is carried out in an extremely simple sequence: we lay out the film on the base, bringing its edges a couple of centimeters above the zero level indicated in the previous stages, lay the insulation sheets directly with a 10-15-centimeter overlap, and fix the joints with tape.

The structure can be insulated using a wide variety of materials, here is just a short list:

• expanded clay;
• mineral wool slabs;
• foam;
• rolled isolon, etc.

We lay the selected material, following the provisions of the appropriate technology, and proceed to further work.

Fifth stage. We arrange the reinforcing layer

A multilayer concrete structure is subject to mandatory reinforcement. We reinforce the floor with PVC or metal mesh to choose from. Metal wire and reinforcement bars are also well suited for solving this problem. They must first be tied into a mesh (we select the size of the cells in accordance with the expected loads: for high ones we take 10x10 cm, for medium ones - 15x15 cm, for low ones 20x20 cm will be enough), using flexible steel wire to fasten the joints.

The reinforcing frame is laid on a pre- installed stands, having a height of about 20-30 mm.

Important note! In the case of hardening using plastic mesh, the material is pulled onto pegs previously driven into the base.

Sixth stage. We install guides and formwork

Correct pouring of concrete mixture to the zero level is impossible without the use of guides. We do the following:

Important! Before proceeding with the next stage of work, be sure to check the correct installation of the guides and formwork using a level. If there are differences, you simply cannot make a flat floor. To eliminate irregularities, it is enough to trim off the protruding places. You can raise the guides in the right places by placing bars of suitable size or the same plywood under them.

Be sure to treat before pouring wooden elements special oil. Thanks to this, in the future we will be able to remove the boards from the solution without any difficulty.

Seventh stage. Pour concrete and make a screed

We fill the previously created “maps” with concrete mortar. If possible, we try to fill the entire mass at once - this way we will get the most durable monolithic structure. If you are not able or willing to order ready-mixed concrete, we do it ourselves.

Pouring concrete along beacons (option without maps)

To do this, we will need a concrete mixer or a large suitable container for manual mixing, cement (we use material grades M400-500), a shovel, crushed stone, sand. We work according to the following recipe: 1 share of cement, 2 shares of sand, 4 shares of crushed stone and about 0.5 shares of water (may vary, we will guide you as you work). Thoroughly mix the ingredients until a homogeneous mixture and proceed to further work.

It is most convenient to pour from the angle opposite to front door– in this case you won’t have to walk on concrete. Fill several cards in 1, maximum 2 steps, level the solution and stretch the mixture. If you have a special vibrator, use it to compact the mixture.

Formwork around pipelines

Having filled out several “cards”, we begin to level the base. The two-meter (or longer) rule will help us with this. We install the tool on the previously mounted guides and pull it towards ourselves. This way we get rid of excess concrete.

We take out the guides and formwork from the processed “cards” (specialists usually do this a day after pouring, some do it earlier, we focus on the situation). In a similar sequence, fill the entire site with concrete. After this we cover the base plastic film and leave it to gain strength for a month. While drying concrete structure You need to regularly moisten it with water to prevent it from cracking.

Finally, all we have to do is fill the screed. To do this, we use a special self-leveling mixture - the most convenient option, the arrangement of which does not require special knowledge and effort.

The leveling mixture will eliminate minor surface imperfections and allow you to obtain a perfectly level base. We traditionally start working from the corner opposite to the entrance to the room.

We prepare the solution according to the manufacturer's instructions, pour it onto the floor and distribute it evenly over the surface using a long rule or other suitable tool. We specify the drying time of the mixture in the instructions, usually it is 2-3 days.

The concrete floor on the ground is ready. All we have to do is lay the selected floor covering. Thanks to a properly arranged, level base, the finish will look beautiful and last as long as possible.

Now you know everything about installing a concrete floor on the ground and will be able to carry out the necessary measures yourself. You just need to follow the guide and everything will definitely work out.

Good luck!

Video - Installation of a concrete floor on the ground