How to make a battle ax from wood. Taiga axe. Do-it-yourself taiga ax - making the tool head

Do not confuse a real taiga ax and a simple, familiar type of tool that is often found in the tools of the house. Taiga ax- This special kind, which will help out even in the harshest hiking or hunting conditions. Finding such a tool at an inexpensive price is quite difficult, but if you have the skills, you can try to make it yourself.

A good strong knife is an indispensable companion for any hunter, huntsman, hiker or forester. But in some cases, its power and size in the forest, and especially in the Taiga, are not enough, or it is not very convenient to use. In this case, an ax comes to the rescue. Here are a few examples of actions where it can definitely come in handy:

  • Tree and firewood cutting;
  • Processing logs, such as peeling bark. For fine workmanship an ax will not work on wood;
  • Making hunting traps from wood;
  • Installation of huts or simple wooden structures.

As you can see, all rough work with wood can easily be done with a taiga ax. With it you can arrange shelter, light a fire, and get loot.

A good taiga ax should be light enough so that its use brings results and not fatigue.


Typically the weight of the weapon does not exceed 1400 grams. The bulk, of course, is contained in the metal part.

Components of an ax

It is better to consider the features of the taiga ax in more detail by familiarizing yourself with its characteristics components. These include: a metal head and an ax handle.

Metal head

The first striking difference between the metal part of the taiga ax and the usual carpentry tools, is the absence of the upper part. The blade also has a rounded shape rather than a standard straight one. This helps it penetrate deeper into the wood. And also, if you have such a blade, you can use the tool to chop logs not along, but across the grain.

The existing long beard firmly fixes the head with the ax handle, thereby reducing the risk of its fracture. It absorbs impact power up to 50-60%. This is very important factor in conditions wildlife, where there is no way to quickly repair a broken weapon.

The taiga ax has a standard head. The head also has an eye where the ax handle is inserted. For tight fixation, a wooden wedge is additionally hammered in.

Toporische

This part of the tool should be longer than that of a regular carpenter's type. It is desirable that this figure be at least 50 cm. This will allow you to comfortably hold the weapon and carry out sweeping actions.


When connecting two parts of the tool, it is necessary to take into account that the angle of inclination between them should not be the usual 90 degrees, but a smaller figure. You can roughly focus on 65-75 degrees. And another important criterion is that the ax handle, given its length, should be as light as possible. Otherwise, your hands will quickly get tired of working with the ax.

How to make a taiga ax

Unfortunately, not everyone can forge a new ax from steel. But if the desire to own a real taiga ax is great, and the prices in stores seem too high, you can try making it from ordinary carpentry tools.

Making the tool head

Before you start working with the metal head of a conventional axe, it should be inspected for corrosion. If it is available, then it is better to soak this part of the tool in a container with vinegar. This will take at least a day. Remaining substances are removed using a regular brush.


A semicircle is cut out on the inside of the metal head, this allows you to make the girth comfortable

The rest of the procedure proceeds as follows:

  1. The front protrusion of the metal part is cut off. This must be done flush with the butt. If there is a protrusion of 5-7 degrees left, then it’s okay, but ideally it’s better to remove it;
  2. Using a Bulgarian saw or an emery wheel, cut off the back of the blade, giving it a rounded shape;
  3. A semicircle is cut out on the inner or, one might say, lower part of the head. This will not only make the grip of the instrument comfortable, but also significantly reduce its initial weight;
  4. You can skip this step, but if you want to comply with all the conditions for the construction of a taiga ax, then it is better to comply with it. Both corners of the butt are cut off. This step increases the maneuverability of the gun;

The metal head of the ax is ready, all that remains is to sharpen it correctly.

Making an ax

It is necessary to pay attention to the manufacture of the ax no less than the metal part. After all, the ease of use of the tool will depend on the correct geometry.

This part of the weapon is made of wood. The most simple option Pine is considered due to its properties of easy sanding and processing. But there is a risk of its rapid breakdown. You should also pay attention to types of trees such as birch, maple and ash. The length is chosen at personal discretion: from 50 to 80 cm. In some cases, a size of 100-120 cm may be more convenient.

The process of making an ax includes the following steps:

  1. The blank from which the ax handle will be made is determined. Its diameter must be at least 13 cm, and its length must be 20 cm longer than the final version;
  2. The workpiece is cleaned. Then they split it exactly in the middle and leave it to dry for a long time, preferably at least 8 weeks. It is important to consider that the humidity in the room should not be too high, and the desired temperature should be kept within 22-25 degrees;
  3. The dried workpiece is processed using a chisel. A small hammer can also come in handy for this matter. At this stage it is important to observe correct form ax handles, which means it’s better to look at the drawings and diagrams.

If this is your first self-made ax, then it is better not to rush to avoid mistakes in the shape. Professionals in this field will need a minimum of time.

Assembling an ax

When both parts of the tool are ready, all that remains is to connect them. For this they usually use epoxy resin and a piece of regular gauze or medical bandage. For additional fixation of the metal head on the ax handle, wooden wedges are hammered in.


You won’t be able to use the tool right away; you need to wait at least 2 days. In order to protect the ax from corrosion, after sharpening and polishing it should be coated special means. The taiga ax is ready for use.

Sharpening rules

A good hunter or forester always has a sharp ax, because there is nothing worse than being in the forest with a blunt weapon. As mentioned above, the blade sharpening of the taiga species is distinguished by its rounded, steep shape. This allows the blade not only to work on wood more efficiently, but also to become dull less often.

Manual method

It’s a rather labor-intensive process, but for those who like to take care of their tools, it may, on the contrary, come to their liking. To begin with, a special template is made according to the dimensions of the tool. They make it from a piece of tin, defining correct angle sharpening. The ax is applied to the finished template. And if there is a deviation angle, then they mark it and process it.

For manual sharpening they often take wooden block and cover it with sandpaper. It must be coarse and fine-grained. Sharpening is done with the blade facing away from you. It is noted that one such timber can be enough for the entire season.

Mechanical

Subject to availability special machine the process will go much faster and easier. But there are also some nuances here.


Mechanical sharpening is carried out as follows:

  1. Place the machine on a flat surface;
  2. Using a marker, marks are made to change the angle of the blade. This step is done when necessary;
  3. Sharpen at low speed, holding the ax with the blade away from you;
  4. At the end of the process, the grinding wheel of the device is lubricated with finishing paste. Then the tool is polished on it;
  5. The sharpened tool is treated with an anti-corrosion agent.

To prevent the ax from becoming dull quickly, it should be stored in a special protective case. You should never throw an ax on the ground. And in order to protect yourself from possible injuries, it is necessary to sharpen the tool while wearing protective gloves.

The ax will please you with its performance for a long time, if you do not try to chop stones and too hard objects with it. And also when cutting, it is best to place a little wood under the wood.

If you live or work in the taiga, then you must be equipped the right tools. Mandatory equipment includes not only a saw, but also an axe. Many people make the mistake of choosing this tool and think that they can handle carpentry. Today we’ll look at what an ideal taiga ax looks like and whether it’s possible to make it yourself.

Peculiarities

Not only in the taiga you need a high-quality ax. All lovers of regular and long hikes will love this attribute. This tool is needed not only for preparing kebabs. There is a list of things that cannot do without this attribute. Namely:

  • cutting down trees;
  • processing of fallen logs;
  • production of bags and self-catchers;
  • building a hut;
  • splitting a log along the grain.

Looking at this entire list, we can safely say that the work is mostly rough and requires strong and durable equipment. The taiga ax is mainly used:

  • commercial hunters;
  • huntsmen;
  • foresters;
  • tourists;
  • geologists and any other person who is going to the taiga.

Components

It is necessary to consider what basic elements the ax consists of:

  1. An ax handle is different from a carpenter's tool. The taiga ax is much longer. It makes it easy to swing and hit a tree. The optimal length of the ax is approximately 50 cm, and in some cases more. It should not be heavy, otherwise it is impossible to achieve success in the taiga.
  2. Head. This part is also different from a carpenter's tool. The head is missing the top of the blade. If you need it urgently regular ax turn into taiga, you can correct it yourself.
  3. Blade. For efficient work it is specially rounded. This blade is widely used in the taiga.
  4. Beard. This part fixes the ax handle and the head together.
  5. Butt. In the taiga, it happens that you need not only an ax, but also a hammer. This part will easily replace it. Convenient, no need to carry a hammer with you, this is especially preferred by tourists.
  6. Eye. This part allows you to put the head on the ax handle. To ensure the reliability of the entire structure, be sure to drive a wooden wedge or an ordinary thick nail into the eyelets. This will prevent the head from coming off.
  7. Fungus. This part is intended solely for safe use. It secures your hands in a comfortable position and does not slip.

Below is a taiga ax. The drawing will show where and how each part is located.

Characteristics

The taiga ax is a tool that will help you with everything. There are conditions that must be met:

  • lightness (frequency of use may affect fatigue);
  • the handle must be ergonomic (an ax for every man should be like an individual suit - only in size);
  • the main weight should be in the metal head.

For those who like to do things with their own hands, we suggest taking advantage of our next master class.

Independent production

We suggest supplementing your camping kit with a tool such as a taiga ax. With our own hands we will make a real masterpiece from the blank. Before starting work, we will prepare everything you need. This includes:

  • carpenter's ax head;
  • wooden butt;
  • Bulgarian;
  • metal wedges.

We present a step-by-step lesson:

  1. Using a grinder you need to shape the ax. It should look like a taiga specimen. If there is rust, it must be removed. To do this we use a petal disk.
  2. If corrosion has damaged the metal from the inside, then soak the head in vinegar for a day. We clean off the remains with a brush.
  3. We are preparing the ax handle. In our case, we suggest taking what is considered strong and solid.
  4. Fasten the head and butt together with epoxy resin. Additionally reinforced with a bandage, drive in beech wedges.
  5. Cut off all excess and be sure to sand it.
  6. Sharpen your axe.

Since the butt is primarily a tree that is susceptible to dampness, it is worth treating it. Impregnate with special oil in several layers. Additionally, the product will receive strength and water resistance.

You can also make your own protective case for the ax. It will protect you from unwanted injuries.

Sharpening rules

To avoid injury, the ax must be sharp. Sharpening can be done manually and mechanically. Let's look at each method separately and look at the basic rules for sharpening a tool.

Manual method

This method will require a lot of free time, since the matter is quite troublesome. If you approach it with special trepidation, then before sharpening you need to make a special template. To do this you need:

  • find a piece of tin;
  • choose the optimal and correct sharpening angle;
  • make a cutout.

When the template is ready, move on to the main action:

  • apply the template to the ax blade;
  • see if there is a deviation angle;
  • make marks using a marker;
  • processing.

If you choose manual method sharpening, it is better to do it with a medium-grained stone. The final touch can be done in the smallest way. The timber also has its own nuances:

  • round shape is preferred;
  • material - fine sandstone.

Professionals advise sharpening with the blade facing away from you. It is also noted that if amateurs get down to business, the blade becomes dull, and in some cases the “sharpeners” break.

Mechanical method

If you have it on hand, you can use it. To carry out the procedure, you will need the following:

  • the device itself;
  • ax with blade;
  • sharpening stone with two working surfaces;
  • finishing paste;
  • marker;
  • goniometer;
  • personal protective equipment for eyes and hands.

The procedure is carried out as follows:

  1. The machine must be placed on a flat and hard surface.
  2. The working surface must be free of defects.
  3. If you need to update the sharpening at the existing angle, mark desired area marker.
  4. Sharpen with the blade facing away from you.
  5. If the angle is suitable, fix the result using finishing paste. Lubricate the grinding wheel with it and polish the ax.
  6. Be sure to apply a product that protects against corrosion.

Sharpening tips from professionals

  1. If you sharpen an ax mechanically, then you need to do this at low speeds.
  2. Do not sharpen with a grinder.
  3. There is no need to rush when sharpening.
  4. To prevent the ax from becoming dull for a long time, store it in a protective case.
  5. Never sharpen an ax without personal protective equipment.
  6. If you doubt your abilities, it is better to turn to professionals.

Safety precautions at work

An ax is a rather dangerous thing. To prevent your hike from turning into a sad journey, remember the following operating instructions:

  1. The head should not dangle on the ax handle.
  2. When cutting, place wood under the wood.
  3. Do not throw the taiga ax on the ground.
  4. Do not attempt to cut stone or metal with this tool.
  5. When working, you need to take positions that are comfortable for you. There should be a lot of free space around.

Purchase

If you like constant hiking or hunt, then you need equipment such as a taiga ax. The vacha is the most common model among this family of instruments. Use it to quickly and easily chop and process wood.

If you want to purchase a forged taiga ax, make sure that the kit includes a protective case. Distinctive feature This brand of tools is considered to be the handle. It is made from strong varieties of birch. The wood is impregnated and processed.

We looked at how to make a taiga one. If you don’t have the opportunity to make it yourself, you can always find the product in the store.

“It’s not the fur coat that warms a man, it’s the axe,” says popular wisdom. An indispensable assistant on the farm, " right hand"for any carpenter - this is all about a very simple tool called an axe.

Whether it's an ax for the garden or for professional use, the demand for this tool will never go away.

A conscientious attitude towards operation, the ability to properly prepare a tool for work will not only help to avoid troubles, but will also serve as a guarantee of the successful completion of the planned work.

Experienced craftsmen know how to make an axe. Having understood the technology and studied practical recommendations, making an ax with your own hands is not difficult even for a non-professional.

Piercing attachment for an ax

When choosing a piercing metal part for a future ax, special attention deserves the quality of the material. Parts manufactured according to GOST are what you need.

You should avoid markings MRTU, OST or TU on the nozzle, because these designations allow for changes in technology during the pouring process of the part (the addition of third-party substances that affect the quality of the material is possible).

When a blade hits another, there should be no marks left on both. Curvature of the material, the presence of any kind of dents, and a curved blade axis are completely eliminated.

The importance of the handle

You can select the optimal length of the ax based on the height of the master and the force of the blow. Strength, in turn, directly depends on the length, so when working with a large ax, it will be easier to chop logs of firewood.

Before making a choice, you should decide on the desired result:

  • heavy version of the tool (total weight 1 kg - 1.4 kg, handle length from 55 to 65 cm);
  • lightweight version (weight 0.8 kg-1 kg, with a length from 40 to 60 cm).

The quality of the wood from which the ax handle will be made is of great importance. Not every type of wood is suitable for manufacturing. Often, birch is used for these purposes (parts located near the roots or stem growths).

There are also handles made of oak, acacia, maple and others. hardwood. All selected workpieces require long-term drying.

After the wooden blank has dried well, the contours of the handle are drawn on it, according to a pre-made template. To avoid the hand slipping during operation and to increase the convenience of the ax, it is necessary to provide a thickening at the end of the handle.

A knife, chisel, or electric jigsaw will help you cut out the outline.

After trying on the ax head and not finding any signs of a loose fit of the parts, you can safely continue improving the ax handle. Glass will help you scrape the tool, and sandpaper will be useful for grinding.

Attaching the piercing attachment to the handle

Correctly following the nozzle instructions will lead to excellent results:

The eye of the piercing part must be adjusted to top part ax handles, excess wood can be easily removed with a knife.

Make a mark on the ax handle where the piercing part will end. To do this, you need to place the handle lying down to avoid inaccuracies. Divide the resulting segment in half and make a corresponding mark.

Holding the ax handle while standing, you need to make a cut to the second mark. This is done with a hacksaw and used for a wedge.

Plan a wooden wedge similar to a previously purchased metal one. The width is equal to the size of the eye, the thickness of the product is from 5 to 10 mm, and the length is equal to the depth of the cut.

Having placed the board on the table, you need to place the piercing part on it, located upside down. Next, you should put this part on the handle and slowly start tapping it on the board.

From time to time you need to change the method of tapping from the piercing part to tapping with an axe.

As soon as the piercing part enters the eye, you need to place the ax vertically and insert a wooden wedge. A hacksaw for metal will help you cut off everything necessary materials, which as a result of the nozzle will be on top.

At the end, oil is applied to the handle and the product is thoroughly dried. The correct execution can be compared with the photo of the ax for the dacha posted below.

Blade sharpening

To avoid hassles that arise during work, it is necessary to take a responsible approach to sharpening the blade. Standard indicators of compliance with GOST:

Compliance with the sharpening requirements is very important. The mismatch between the degrees leads to the fact that when cutting with an ax, the blade gets stuck in the wood.

During initial sharpening, minor damage, nicks and gouges are eliminated. Afterwards, secondary sharpening is carried out. The end of the process is the grinding process, carried out with a fine-grained stone.

A tool made with your own hands according to instructions is always the most best ax, which may be in the country.


Photos of the best ax options for a summer residence

In every country house there are a number necessary tools For various works. To build a house, chop wood or butcher meat, you need an ax. You can buy it in a store or make it yourself. The purchased tool may turn out to be inconvenient or unreliable, and this is unsafe. A handmade tool is particularly convenient and reliable. Before you make an ax handle with your own hands at home, you need to know what an ax looks like, what parts it consists of, and decide on its purpose.

Types of axes

The tool is usually classified according to the type of handle.

In addition to basic axes, there are tools designed for special work. These include: axe, carpenter's axe, large carpenter's axe, sculpture axe, as well as figure instrument and an ax for concave surfaces.

Making your own ax

The components of an ax are: an ax handle, a metal blade and wedges. How easy and convenient it will be to work with the tool depends on the length and shape of its handle, called the axe. Let's look at how to make it correctly and in the right size. To do this, you need to select the material and cut out the workpiece according to the template.

Homemade product impregnate protective agent, this will help protect the ax from rotting. Impregnation is done in several layers of drying oil or linseed oil. Each subsequent layer must be completely saturated. It is not recommended to coat products with varnishes and paints. They will give the handle a sliding effect, and the ax will constantly begin to slip out while working. Sometimes a bright dye is added to the impregnation. The tool handle acquires bright color, and this is good when work is carried out in overgrown areas. The ax will always be visible and will not get lost.

Selecting a metal nozzle

It is impossible to forge metal tightly with your own hands, so you buy it at a hardware store. Tips for choosing a piercing part:

  1. A high-quality blade should be solid, without nicks, chips or dents.
  2. The metal is marked according to GOST.
  3. The ends of the butt should be perpendicular to the blade.
  4. The eyelet should be cone-shaped.

Attaching an ax to an ax handle

The process is carried out in several stages, such as fitting, fitting and wedging.

Cracks that occur when installing a metal sheet can be eliminated using epoxy resin. It is poured into the cuts before driving the wedges. The resin will dry in a day. And only then can you saw off the protruding part.

Blade sharpening and hardening

Performance tools depend on a sharp blade. Therefore, you need to know how to sharpen an ax correctly. For each type of work, a different blade processing angle is selected.

Sharpening is done on an electric sharpening wheel, smoothly moving the blade along the circle at an angle of 45 degrees. To quality cutting edge has not deteriorated, the blade should not be allowed to overheat. To do this, place a container of water near the grinding machine. The blade is periodically lowered into it for cooling. At the end of the work, the blade is polished. To do this, use a sharpening stone or sandpaper.

Metal sheet made from soft material, will have to be sharpened often. To avoid this, you can harden the ax. For this you will need gas burner, oil and water. The blade is heated on gas until a red color appears. Then it is dipped in oil and cold water. Everything is repeated 3 times.

The taiga ax is a special type of tool that has many differences from ordinary carpentry tools that can be found in every owner’s home. Good tool it is very difficult to find and it is expensive, so we will make the best ax with our own hands from ordinary materials. Next, we will consider the main differences, features, characteristics of the product and step by step instructions its manufacture.

Characteristics of the taiga ax and what it should be like

Since the parameters of the ax and blade are very different from the usual sizes of “household” axes and will seem unusual to many, you first need to decide what problems can be solved with this miracle device:

  • Tree cutting. Felling in a sawmill, sanitary felling or preparing firewood for a log house - this is exactly what this ax was made for.
  • Rough work with logs (precisely rough!). Suitable for removing branches, making grooves, removing thick bark and similar work.
  • Ax for survival. A lightweight hunting tool, suitable for quickly creating bags and animal traps.
  • Construction of huts, decking, wooden houses « instant cooking" A hut will not be built without an axe, but with its help you can do it 4 times faster than when working with a carpenter's ax blade.
  • Working with firewood. If accuracy is a secondary concern, then this tool is perfect for the job.

If you want to make a tool for precision work, then it would be better to consider forged axes with a straight, long blade. They are of little use when cutting down trees, but the accuracy is very high. In addition to the quality of the “cut,” there are many differences between a taiga ax and a regular one.

Shorter rounded blade . The ax is much lighter than a regular one, and small area work surface allows you to bury it much deeper into the wood, suitable for cutting wood across the grain. The tool is much easier to carry (the ax and head together weigh no more than 1400 grams).

Presence of a long beard . Its main task is to protect the wooden part from breaking under strong impacts. Up to 60% of the impact force is absorbed. But it does not protect against impacts from logs - this is a misconception, because special shape the blades already perform this function.

Special ax sharpening . The rear edge of the blade is almost 2 times thinner than the front. This is done for the purpose of using the ax as a cleaver (if struck correctly). In a conventional tool, the edge has the same thickness for high precision works

Special angle of inclination of the ax . The head of the taiga ax forms a much smaller angle with the ax handle. This allows you to increase work efficiency, relieve hand fatigue and increase productivity when cutting trees. The impact becomes much stronger than that of a carpenter's axe, where the head and blade are placed at an angle of 90 degrees. All taiga axes self made they try to do it with an angle of 75-65 degrees - this is their main difference.

They use ordinary sharpening wheels, since they can be very diverse. The main thing is to observe the difference in the thickness of the leading and trailing edges, since it is this that affects the productivity of the forester.

Do-it-yourself taiga ax - making the tool head

Forge or pour metal part It won’t work at home, so let’s go on our own in a simple way and in a few steps we will make a taiga ax out of an ordinary carpenter’s axe.

STEP 1: we take an old metal head from an ax, the weight of which is approximately 1400-1600 grams ( best option) and cut off the front protrusion of the blade flush with the butt. Protrusion of 5-8 degrees is allowed, but it's better to remove it if you need the right axe.

STEP 2: we make the back of the blade round, we cut off the metal so that the entire touching surface is without corners. This can be done using an ordinary grinder or a medium-grit sanding wheel.

STEP 3: cut out a semicircle in the inner part of the blade. It is necessary for a comfortable grip of the ax when it is necessary to trim something or for more precise work. With this form of an ax you can pull up small logs or hang the ax on a tree branch. In addition, you can reduce the weight of the head by 150-200 grams.

STEP 4: we cut off the upper corners of the butt. This will reduce weight and increase the maneuverability of the tool. This operation can be omitted if you are satisfied with the axe.

Now all that remains is to choose how to sharpen the ax. It is very important to use a low-speed tool (a grinder cannot be used!). Sanding machine with large wheel and medium grit - ideal option. The sharpening must be double-sided and have a moderately sharp edge (a very sharp one will die on the first tree).

Making an ax handle with your own hands

You should not neglect the ax handle, since it is this that affects the comfort of work. The holder must be balanced, comfortable, well polished and with the correct geometry so as not to injure the worker’s hands.

The first step is to choose the right wood for the ax handle. The first and simplest option is pine. It is very easy to sharpen and polish, but is unreliable due to its high fragility. You can use birch - the best option and very affordable wood that is quite easy to find. Maple and clear - ideal option, but making a handle from such wood is very difficult in some latitudes.

The size of the ax can be at your discretion; a handle with a length of 50 to 70 centimeters is recommended ( one size fits all) for a cleaver. A hiking option is 40 centimeters, but cutting down trees and chopping firewood is quite difficult with it. If working with an ax only involves splitting logs, then the handle can be increased to 120 centimeters - excellent impact power and productivity, but you lose in comfort of use. Next, let's look at step-by-step instructions for making an ax handle.

STEP 1: select wooden blank. The log should be 20 centimeters longer, and its diameter should be at least 12 cm. Without knots, rotten areas, deformations and other defects that may be present on the tree.

STEP 2: drying wood. First you need to clear all the bark and split the lump in the middle. It is advisable to withstand for a couple of months at +22-25 degrees and 15% humidity. You should not heat it or keep it damp - this will only worsen the properties of the wood after drying, and it may become deformed.

STEP 3: we shape the ax handle. First, you can remove all excess with a hatchet or a large knife, and all “jewelry work” is done using a chisel and a small hammer. If this is your first hand-made pen and you don’t yet know how to make an ax, then the process will take several hours, you need to check the drawings. A more experienced person will be able to cut an ax handle by eye in 20-30 minutes. You should end up with a handle something like this:

STEP 4: Now you need to attach the ax handle and secure it. You can use gauze and epoxy resin - a proven option. After 2-3 days the instrument is completely ready for use. To be sure, after attaching the ax you can hammer in a wedge - this will be more reliable.

STEP 5: sanding and opening with varnish. The ax handle needs to be properly processed sandpaper and open with anti-corrosion mixtures so that the wood is not damaged over time. Now the instrument will also be beautiful!

Now all you have to do is find out what do-it-yourself sharpening is. You need to sharpen the ax handle on a machine or do it manually and you can go test the tool. True connoisseurs can also make a leather case with their own hands. A piece of leather 30 by 30 centimeters, an awl and nylon threads is all you need. Now the tool will look respectable and you won’t be ashamed to give it as a gift!

You can find out more about how to make a taiga ax with your own hands here: