How to make your plot or garden unique - this is the dream of many owners. Many people love to decorate their own estate, dacha, or yard, but not everyone has extra money that could be spent on decorative figures. But this is not a problem for those who at least know how to do something with their own hands.
It doesn’t even require any special expenses.
So, for example, a fairy-tale kingdom on the garden site will become a good gift both small and adult dreamers.
Even a mini-castle built at the dacha will add mystery to the area.
Mini castles for the yard or garden are quite large in volume, and building it completely is a little difficult.
You can try to make some parts of the castle separately, so that later in any part of the garden, at the dacha you can assemble it from ready-made elements like from cubes.
An example of a design for building a castle in a country house
easy to disassemble. To reduce solution consumption, cans or bottles can be placed inside the cylinder, but the thickness of the solution around the ballast must be at least 5 cm.
The solution for pouring should be thick enough. It must be given several hours to set to such a state that the formwork does not crumble when removed. The height of the cylindrical formwork must be selected as follows: it should be approximately equal to the height of the tower; with a smaller size, the formwork will need to be disassembled and assembled slightly higher than the already set lower part.
Making a castle for your dacha is easy if you have a pair of “golden hands”.
The main material is sand and cement for the longevity of the composition. 2 parts sand and 1 part cement.
Elements of a standard design.
Let's start with the turrets.
A cylinder of the required radius is rolled up from a sheet of iron (mine is about 2-30 cm). The cylinder is fixed with wire or self-tapping screws
Anything can be placed inside the cylinder - bottles, cans - to reduce the consumption of the solution, but the thickness to the ballast should be at least 5 cm. Fill with a thick solution.
We give it several hours to set to such a state that when removing the formwork it does not crumble. 
We immediately begin to cut the damp, slightly set solution.
The cutting technology is the same as that of sandboxes. For cutting, a set of tools is used that is available to everyone.
Do not forget to make windows, loopholes, using a knife to pick out the desired recess.
Fill the mold with the solution and after partial setting, carefully remove the formwork into a cylinder and make required quantity windows, battlements - as your imagination dictates. 
The roof can be made from tin cones; you can also use this tin cone as a mold for pouring mortar. After complete setting, carefully knock our roof out of the mold. Don't forget that we are still preparing individual elements of the castle. We'll put everything together later.
Let's start building the walls. Our walls will be either fortress walls (1) or a building element (2).
There is no difference in their production.
We assemble a rectangle of the required size from boards 5 cm wide. We place it on a flat surface, having previously placed either a film or a piece of roofing felt so that the solution poured later is not absorbed.
You can put it in this frame metal arch- this will be a door or gate. Pour the solution into the frame. Where no windows or doors are planned, you can add crushed stones to the bottom or broken bricks to save solution.
After the solution is poured to the desired height, you can take nice crushed stones and stick them into the base of the foundation so that their flat edges protrude above the general plane of the solution by about 5 mm.
Then loopholes and windows are made. Draw everything your imagination tells you. To remove the remaining solution, I use a soft brush (you’ve probably seen how archaeologists work in the movies). In the end, you will be left with something like the following on your desk.
Leave the finished walls on the table for about a day. When the foundation is prepared, we begin assembly.
First we install on cement mortar, previously applied to the foundation, for example tower No. 1. We attach wall No. 1 to the tower using mortar. Then we install tower No. 2.
The castle is already beginning to emerge. You are filled with excitement. Next, add wall No. 2 and finish by installing tower No. 3.
Assembly diagram:
When this structure sets, form it over the building gable roof.
This is how you can make a complex castle from the main basic elements, changing them slightly depending on your imagination - like this, for example.
Or a very simple one:
How to make your plot or garden unique - this is the dream of many owners. Many people love to decorate their own estate, dacha, or yard, but not everyone has extra money that could be spent on decorative figures. But this is not a problem for those who at least know how to do something with their own hands.
It doesn’t even require any special expenses.
For example, a fairy-tale kingdom on the garden site will be a good gift for both small and adult dreamers.
Even a mini-castle built at the dacha will add mystery to the area.
Mini castles for the yard or garden are quite large in volume, and building it completely is a little difficult.
You can try to make some parts of the castle separately, so that later in any part of the garden or at the dacha you can assemble it from ready-made elements, like from cubes.
An example of a design for building a castle in a country house
easy to disassemble. To reduce solution consumption, cans or bottles can be placed inside the cylinder, but the thickness of the solution around the ballast must be at least 5 cm.
The solution for pouring should be thick enough. It must be given several hours to set to such a state that the formwork does not crumble when removed. The height of the cylindrical formwork must be selected as follows: it should be approximately equal to the height of the tower; with a smaller size, the formwork will need to be disassembled and assembled slightly higher than the already set lower part.
Making a castle for your dacha is easy if you have a pair of “golden hands”.
The main material is sand and cement for the longevity of the composition. 2 parts sand and 1 part cement.
Elements of a standard design.
Let's start with the turrets.
A cylinder of the required radius is rolled up from a sheet of iron (mine is about 2-30 cm). The cylinder is fixed with wire or self-tapping screws
Anything can be placed inside the cylinder - bottles, cans - to reduce the consumption of the solution, but the thickness to the ballast should be at least 5 cm. Fill with a thick solution.
We give it several hours to set to such a state that when removing the formwork it does not crumble.
We immediately begin to cut the damp, slightly set solution.
The cutting technology is the same as that of sandboxes. For cutting, a set of tools is used that is available to everyone.
Do not forget to make windows, loopholes, using a knife to pick out the desired recess.
Fill the mold with the solution and after partial setting, carefully remove the formwork cylinder and make the required number of windows, teeth - as your imagination dictates.
The roof can be made from tin cones; you can also use this tin cone as a mold for pouring mortar. After complete setting, carefully knock our roof out of the mold. Don't forget that we are still preparing individual elements of the castle. We'll put everything together later.
Let's start building the walls. Our walls will be either fortress walls (1) or a building element (2).
There is no difference in their production.
We assemble a rectangle of the required size from boards 5 cm wide. We place it on a flat surface, having previously placed either a film or a piece of roofing felt so that the solution poured later is not absorbed.
You can place a metal arch in this frame - this will be a door or gate. Pour the solution into the frame. Where no windows or doors are planned, you can add crushed stones or broken bricks to the bottom to save mortar.
After the solution is poured to the desired height, you can take nice crushed stones and stick them into the base of the foundation so that their flat edges protrude above the general plane of the solution by about 5 mm.
Then loopholes and windows are made. Draw everything your imagination tells you. To remove the remaining solution, I use a soft brush (you’ve probably seen how archaeologists work in the movies). In the end, you will be left with something like the following on your desk.
Leave the finished walls on the table for about a day. When the foundation is prepared, we begin assembly.
First, we install it on a cement mortar previously applied to the foundation, for example tower No. 1. We attach wall No. 1 to the tower using mortar. Then we install tower No. 2.
The castle is already beginning to emerge. You are filled with excitement. Next, add wall No. 2 and finish by installing tower No. 3.
Assembly diagram:
Once this structure has set, form a gable roof over the building.
This is how you can make a complex castle from the main basic elements, changing them slightly depending on your imagination - like this, for example.
Or a very simple one:
I, like some of you, had a fix idea to do something pleasing to the eye against the backdrop of a country landscape. The choice fell on a mini-castle, since it is the easiest to fit anywhere on the site, taking into account its geological features. Moreover, you can build creatively, adding or changing its elements on the go.
The main material is sand and cement for the longevity of the composition. After experimenting, I settled on a 2 to 1 composition (i.e. 2 parts sand and 1 part cement). It is better to dry the sand in the sun, then it is easier to mix it with cement, and also to sift it for use in elements with fine detail, since debris can ruin the part.
The castle has a fairly decent volume, so it is unrealistic to build it all at once. To do this, I first make individual parts of the castle, so that I can then build it out of cubes in a couple of days. The last, third castle was assembled in two days. The neighbors thought he had fallen from the sky when they saw him.
So, let's look at the elements of a typical design.
Let's start with the turrets. A cylinder of the required radius is rolled up from a sheet of iron (mine is about 2-30 cm). The cylinder is fixed with wire or self-tapping screws so that it can be easily disassembled in the future. Anything can be placed inside the cylinder - bottles, cans - to reduce the consumption of the solution, but the thickness to the ballast must be at least 5 cm. Fill with a fairly thick solution. We give it several hours to set to such a state that when removing the formwork it does not crumble. You can choose the height of the cylindrical formwork yourself. It can be equal to the height of the tower, or less, but then the formwork will have to be dismantled and assembled above the already set lower part.
We immediately begin to cut the damp, slightly set solution. The cutting technology is the same as that of sandboxes. For cutting I use a set of tools available to everyone. I use screwdrivers, chisels, a medical scalpel, a hacksaw blade for metal and various strips of tin for forming various architectural elements.
A simple cylinder is boring, this is where the flight of fancy begins. I make various grooves by wrapping a long strip of tin around the cylinder, using this strip as a guide, and using a screwdriver or chisel to select the annular recesses. Then in the lower part you can imitate stonework, destruction, chipped plaster, cracks - after all, the castle is ancient.
For me, aging is the most exciting part of the process. At the same time, we don’t bother making windows, loopholes, using a knife to pick out the required recess. If you want to make a turret at the top of the tower, then roll up a cylinder with a diameter a couple of centimeters larger and a height of 10-15 cm, insert it inside plastic bottle to save the solution (after complete setting it will be removed).
We fill the mold with the solution and after partial setting, carefully remove the cylinder formwork and make the required number of windows, teeth - as your imagination dictates. I'm sawing out the teeth hacksaw blade for metal - I make cuts of the required depth and pick off the excess mortar between the cuts.
The roof can be made from tin cones, or you can use this tin cone as a mold for pouring mortar (that’s exactly what I do). After complete setting, carefully knock our roof out of the mold. Don't forget that we are still preparing individual elements of the castle. We'll put everything together later. So we sorted out the tower. We have all the elements ready and stacked somewhere in the corner.
Let's start building the walls. Our walls will be either fortress walls (1) or a building element (2).
There is no difference in their production. We assemble a rectangle of the required size from boards 5 cm wide. Place it on a flat surface (I have an old kitchen table) having previously placed either a film or a piece of roofing material so that the solution poured later is not absorbed. You can place a metal arch in this frame - this will be a door or gate. Pour the solution into the frame. Where no windows or doors are planned, you can add crushed stones or broken bricks to the bottom to save mortar. After the solution is poured to the desired height, you can take nice crushed stones and stick them into the base of the foundation so that their flat edges protrude above the general plane of the solution by about 5 mm.
If there is no crushed stone, then after partial setting, you can imitate the foundation with a sharp knife or scalpel. You can also use pebbles to mark future windows. Thus, your task is to create such flat elements. To speed things up, I make 2-3 of these rectangles at a time. Once you make such a wall once, you will understand that they are made easily and very quickly. As a rule, we are interested in outer side castle, the inside does not represent anything because it is not visible.
So, after a few hours, the mortar of our future walls has set very (!) at this point, so that it is pliable, but does not collapse, and if it is left too long, it will be difficult to process. We carefully disassemble the frame and we are left with a flat rectangle on the table. If you are making a wall with teeth, then make the gaps between the teeth by gradually removing the mortar with a flat tool (I use a metal ruler for this). Then loopholes and windows are made. Draw everything your imagination tells you. To remove the remaining solution, I use a soft brush (you’ve probably seen how archaeologists work in the movies). In the end, you will be left with something like the following on your desk.
Leave the finished walls on the table for about a day. Then they can be safely removed from the table and also placed in a corner. When the required number of elements have already been made, choose a sunny day for installation on summer cottage. This point is still important here. The castle looks more beautiful on some hill, on a pile of stones. Therefore, prepare the foundation for it. If you use stones, always place the stones on a small layer of mortar first. If you don't do this, the stones will move over time and destroy your beauty.
When the foundation is prepared, we begin assembly. First, we install it on a cement mortar that has been previously applied to the foundation, for example, tower No. 1. We attach wall No. 1 to the tower using mortar. Then we install tower No. 2.
The castle is already beginning to emerge. You are filled with excitement. Next, add wall No. 2 and finish by installing tower No. 3. My towers were heavy, so the men needed to tinker. Thus on at this stage This is the design we got (top view)
But wall number 2 will be part of the building, so I take some bricks and form a rectangle of this building. To prevent the solution from getting into the windows or doors from the inside, I close them from the inside with something flat (I use pieces of flat slate or fragments of flat tiles).
I have the inside of the castle hidden. But if you want her to have beautiful view- you need to make both wall No. 3 and fill the internal part for the monolith concrete mortar or filled with construction waste.
Once this structure has set, form a gable roof over the building. It takes me two or three bricks (spread the mortar with a spatula and level it into a cone).
This is how you can make a complex castle from the main basic elements, changing them slightly depending on your imagination (for example, you are tired of round towers - make rectangular formwork and the towers will be square, etc.).
A castle made simply of concrete is not very beautiful. How to decorate it?
About imitation. Boulders at the base of the foundation are made very easily since they are of arbitrary shape. Imitating brick requires more patience. Under the ruler, I scratch a series of horizontal lines and then make vertical notches at characteristic intervals. Use a brush to brush away the debris. Where the surface is very rough, it can be smoothed by moistening it with water from a spray and ironing it with a soft brush. When the assembled castle is completely dry, you can tint it a little. Give the roof the appearance of tiles. I use acrylic paint with the desired color; to paint imitation brick, I purchased the following colors for acrylic - black, red, brown, yellow. Green can be used to imitate moss. Using a soft brush, lightly touching the masonry different colors colors I paint the surface. In this case, only the convex surface is painted, and the recessed part remains gray. The effect is amazing. From half a meter it seems that everything is made of small bricks. In one place of the castle I even imitated a destroyed brick wall. I didn't expect such an effect myself. The castle has already survived the winter for a year and the paints are like new.
Is it possible to make parts of the house? I work in a garage. But in principle, you can do it at home if you don’t litter too much. In this case, the details can be broken down into even smaller ones. Those. for example, make a wall of two parts - the upper one where the battlements are and the lower one where the gates are. Similarly, make a tower from two or three cylinders or cubes. Then it is easier to transport. This allows you to prepare the castle even in winter and spring, and assemble it in a couple of days in the summer. This is how I prepare the dry mixture. I fill half a bucket with dry sand, add cement and it mixes very easily with a small children's spatula. I pour all this into a small bucket and make the next batch until I fill it. Thus, there is always enough dry solution available.
I wish you all success in your creativity. And be sure to share your results.
First mini castle
The first flowerbed castle was made about eight years ago. The rest is recent - last year and the year before. The beacon is real - it glows at night.
Making a decorative castle with your own hands is a fascinating and time-consuming process. This structure will be an interesting decoration at your dacha.
A fairytale kingdom on the garden site will be a good gift for both small and adult dreamers.
Before you start making the castle, prepare necessary materials and tools.
Materials:
- Foam sheets.
- Insulation for pipes.
- Crumbs of stones or marble.
- Set of acrylic paints.
- Construction adhesive.
- Screws.
- Polyurethane foam with a gun.
Tools:
- Curly screwdriver.
- Thin hacksaw.
- Set of felt-tip pens.
- Brushes.
- Construction spatula.
- Insulating tape.
- Mass for modeling.
The process of making a decorative castle for the garden with your own hands
First of all, you must decide on the number of walls and towers of your structure. It is best to use a scheme with 3 walls and 6 towers. After this, you can start making walls. To do this, take two sheets of foam and several plastic pots.
Draw sketches of the walls on one of the foam sheets. Please note that the height of the towers must correspond to the height of the sheet. The width of the towers should match the width of the roof of the decorative castle. If you want your building to be in a medieval style, you can make battlements on the tower. Leave a small gap (4-5 cm) along the edges of the walls. You will have to hide it directly under the turrets.
On the second sheet, draw sketches for the towers. Don't forget to cut out the windows. Next, use glue to attach the blanks to the walls. As a result of the operations performed, you should receive a wall with two turrets. Windows can be painted using black acrylic paint. Also, don't forget to paint the castle arch and gate. If you notice that the side walls of the towers have small protrusions, trim them with a hacksaw. Then wait for the paint on the walls to dry and paint the lattice.
After that, start painting the walls. It is best to start with the teeth. First, paint them the same color as the plaster. However, you can paint the teeth using regular paint from a can. After this, let your design dry. Next, cover the entire surface of the wall. decorative plaster. The side walls of the turrets do not need to be painted; they should be dealt with last.
The next stage is the production of round towers. To make them, it is best to use plastic pipes small diameter. If you don't have pipes, you can use four pieces of foam. From each of the scraps, cut off a cylinder 10-12 cm long. You can cut teeth and glue them to each of the towers, and while the glue dries, secure the seams with electrical tape.
After the operations have been completed, make longitudinal cuts along the entire length of the workpiece. While the glue is drying, you can paint the tower windows with black paint. Then cover the workpiece with plaster.
If the tower configuration is rectangular, masonry elements can be added. To do this, use a modeling compound. If you don't have it on hand, use regular plasticine. When the towers and walls are completely dry, you can begin assembling a decorative castle for the garden with your own hands.
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In what order to assemble a decorative castle?
To make a castle you will need: 3 pieces of pipe, stones, broken tiles, 1.5 liter dark bottles and cement mortar.
First of all, you need to make a platform on which to install decorative castle. Undoubtedly, it is best to level it with cement mortar. Before assembly, do not forget to tighten the walls with rope and apply foam to the joints. After this, proceed with the installation of round turrets. To do this, insert the walls into the cuts. The missing parts of the towers can be made using construction foam. Press the ends of the cuts tightly against the walls and fill the towers with foam. WITH inside Fortress, form the missing parts in the same way, but do not forget to cut off the excess parts of the foam using a hacksaw.
After assembly, you can start making the backlight. It should be made from diffused light lamps. They need to be placed inside the fortress.
If this method If you consider making a lock too labor-intensive, you can resort to something else. To do this, you need to acquire an asbestos-cement pipe and concrete mortar. Alternative method has the following sequence:
- First, dig the pipes into the soil and concrete them for good stability. Then lay stones around the entire perimeter of the castle. After making several rows of masonry, let the mortar set.
- Next, cut the plastic bottle into 2 parts. Windows can be made from them.
- After this, proceed to making the cone-shaped roof. It can be made from concrete mortar. If desired, you can lay a mosaic on top.
- Then install the roof on the tower.
- If desired, make an arch. Use a foam form as a support, which should be removed after the concrete solution has hardened. For better stability of the arch, it is advisable to make grooves.
After the decorative mini-castle for the garden is ready, from old fabric a flag should be made and attached to the observation tower.
I, like some of you, had a fix idea to do something pleasing to the eye against the backdrop of a country landscape. The choice fell on a mini-castle, since it is the easiest to fit anywhere on the site, taking into account its geological features. Moreover, you can build creatively, adding or changing its elements on the go.
The main material is sand and cement for the longevity of the composition. After experimenting, I settled on a 2 to 1 composition (i.e. 2 parts sand and 1 part cement). It is better to dry the sand in the sun, then it is easier to mix it with cement, and also to sift it for use in elements with fine detail, since debris can ruin the part.
The castle has a fairly decent volume, so it is unrealistic to build it all at once. To do this, I first make individual parts of the castle, so that I can then build it out of cubes in a couple of days. The last, third castle was assembled in two days. The neighbors thought he had fallen from the sky when they saw him.
So, let's look at the elements of a typical design.
Let's start with the turrets. A cylinder of the required radius is rolled up from a sheet of iron (mine is about 2-30 cm). The cylinder is fixed with wire or self-tapping screws so that it can be easily disassembled in the future. Anything can be placed inside the cylinder - bottles, cans - to reduce the consumption of the solution, but the thickness to the ballast must be at least 5 cm. Fill with a fairly thick solution. We give it several hours to set to such a state that when removing the formwork it does not crumble. You can choose the height of the cylindrical formwork yourself. It can be equal to the height of the tower, or less, but then the formwork will have to be dismantled and assembled above the already set lower part.
We immediately begin to cut the damp, slightly set solution. The cutting technology is the same as that of sandboxes. For cutting I use a set of tools available to everyone. I use screwdrivers, chisels, a medical scalpel, a hacksaw blade for metal and various strips of tin for forming various architectural elements.
A simple cylinder is boring, this is where the flight of fancy begins. I make various grooves by wrapping a long strip of tin around the cylinder, using this strip as a guide, and using a screwdriver or chisel to select the annular recesses. Then in the lower part you can imitate stonework, destruction, chipped plaster, cracks - after all, the castle is ancient.
For me, aging is the most exciting part of the process. At the same time, we don’t bother making windows, loopholes, using a knife to pick out the required recess. If you want to make a turret at the top of the tower, then roll up a cylinder with a diameter a couple of centimeters larger and a height of 10-15 cm, insert a plastic bottle inside to save the solution (after it has completely set, it will be removed).
We fill the mold with the solution and after partial setting, carefully remove the cylinder formwork and make the required number of windows, teeth - as your imagination dictates. I cut out the teeth with a hacksaw blade for metal - I make cuts of the required depth and pick off the excess mortar between the cuts.
The roof can be made from tin cones, or you can use this tin cone as a mold for pouring mortar (that’s exactly what I do). After complete setting, carefully knock our roof out of the mold. Don't forget that we are still preparing individual elements of the castle. We'll put everything together later. So we sorted out the tower. We have all the elements ready and stacked somewhere in the corner.
Let's start building the walls. Our walls will be either fortress walls (1) or a building element (2).
There is no difference in their production. We assemble a rectangle of the required size from boards 5 cm wide. We place it on a flat surface (I have an old kitchen table), first placing either a film or a piece of roofing felt so that the solution poured later is not absorbed. You can place a metal arch in this frame - this will be a door or gate. Pour the solution into the frame. Where no windows or doors are planned, you can add crushed stones or broken bricks to the bottom to save mortar. After the solution is poured to the desired height, you can take nice crushed stones and stick them into the base of the foundation so that their flat edges protrude above the general plane of the solution by about 5 mm.
If there is no crushed stone, then after partial setting, you can imitate the foundation with a sharp knife or scalpel. You can also use pebbles to mark future windows. Thus, your task is to create such flat elements. To speed things up, I make 2-3 of these rectangles at a time. Having made such a wall once, you will understand that they are made easily and very quickly. As a rule, we are interested in the outside of the castle; the inside does not represent anything because it is not visible.
So, after a few hours, the mortar of our future walls has set very (!) at this point, so that it is pliable, but does not collapse, and if it is left too long, it will be difficult to process. We carefully disassemble the frame and we are left with a flat rectangle on the table. If you are making a wall with teeth, then make the gaps between the teeth by gradually removing the mortar with a flat tool (I use a metal ruler for this). Then loopholes and windows are made. Draw everything your imagination tells you. To remove the remaining solution, I use a soft brush (you’ve probably seen how archaeologists work in the movies). In the end, you will be left with something like the following on your desk.
Leave the finished walls on the table for about a day. Then they can be safely removed from the table and also placed in a corner. When the required number of elements have already been made, we choose a sunny day for installation on the summer cottage. This point is still important here. The castle looks more beautiful on some hill, on a pile of stones. Therefore, prepare the foundation for it. If you use stones, always place the stones on a small layer of mortar first. If you don't do this, the stones will move over time and destroy your beauty.
When the foundation is prepared, we begin assembly. First, we install it on a cement mortar previously applied to the foundation, for example tower No. 1. We attach wall No. 1 to the tower using mortar. Then we install tower No. 2.
The castle is already beginning to emerge. You are filled with excitement. Next, add wall No. 2 and finish by installing tower No. 3. My towers were heavy, so the men needed to tinker. Thus, at this stage we have this design (top view)
But wall number 2 will be part of the building, so I take some bricks and form a rectangle of this building. To prevent the solution from getting into the windows or doors from the inside, I close them from the inside with something flat (I use pieces of flat slate or fragments of flat tiles).
I have the inside of the castle hidden. But if you want it to have a beautiful appearance, you need to make both wall No. 3 and fill the inside of the monolith with concrete mortar or fill it with construction waste.
Once this structure has set, form a gable roof over the building. It takes me two or three bricks (spread the mortar with a spatula and level it into a cone).
This is how you can make a complex castle from the basic basic elements, changing them slightly depending on your imagination (for example, you are tired of round towers - make rectangular formwork and the towers will be square, etc.).
