September 26, 2016
Specialization: professional in the field of construction and renovation ( full cycle carrying out finishing works, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrical and finishing works), installation of window structures. Hobbies: see the column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"

What to make the floor on the balcony from is a question that needs to be resolved before the start of repair work. Here, a lot depends on the condition of the ceiling, whether the balcony is glazed, and, of course, on our personal preferences. However, the process of arranging a floor is by no means limited to the choice of floor covering: no less important is how carefully we complete everything preparatory work, and also how effective the insulation will be.

In the article I will tell you how to properly organize the work of major repairs of the floor on the balcony, and also describe the algorithm for performing the key stages of this process.

Step 1. Preparing the base

Slab inspection and repair

Before we make a floor on the balcony, we need to make sure that it has a reliable foundation. The base most often is a balcony slab, so at the first stage all attention should be paid to it.

I usually work according to the following algorithm:

1. To begin with, I dismantle the old flooring and other structural elements - in general, I remove as much as possible everything that blocks access to the permanent foundation.
2. Then I inspect the condition of the balcony slab, checking it for cracks. I examine the cracks themselves using probes - steel plates of a fixed thickness, which allow me to measure the depth of the defect and determine whether its spread in depth has stopped.

If the probe, after being immersed in a crack, rests against an obstacle, it means that there will be no deepening in the near future (most likely). If the plate gets jammed in a narrow gap, then there is a risk of further deepening of the defect until a through hole is formed.

1. I clean all identified cracks from fragments of concrete and dust, and then expand them to stop their expansion and deepening. I fill the defects with a repair composition based on high-quality quick-hardening cement.
2. Before filling a wide crack, I make several transverse cuts on it - they will help to secure the mortar more securely.
3. I knock down fragments of concrete from the edge of the balcony slab, which are held only by the reinforcement. I make formwork from boards and pour mortar to restore the edge.

Waterproofing

When the repair composition polymerizes and dries, you will need to protect the base from moisture. Waterproofing can be carried out either by the surface method or using penetrating compounds.

Top sealing of the floor of a street balcony without opening is performed as follows:

1. I clean the base from cement dust that gets on it during repairs.
2. I lay several layers of roofing material or waterproofing membrane on the concrete slab.
3. Instead of roll material, you can use painting moisture-proof compounds: I apply them with a brush in two or three layers.

1. Special attention I pay attention to finishing the gaps between the balcony slab and the front wall of the house. Here waterproofing layer I raise it by 10-15 cm, forming a barrier against wicking.

Instead of surface products, you can perform waterproofing concrete base using penetrating compounds (Skrepa M500, Penetron and analogues). The technology for their application will be as follows:

1. We clean the concrete slab and moisten it with a spray bottle.
2. Using a brush with synthetic bristles, apply the first layer of penetrating material.
3. When the coating begins to polymerize, but does not dry completely, moisten it.
4. Apply the second layer, making strokes in a perpendicular direction.
5. For 48 hours (minimum), we ensure that the treated surface is not subjected to mechanical stress and temperature changes.

Screed arrangement

If we insulate the floor, then the question of how to level the base for the floor covering does not arise - anyway, the floor level will rise due to the thermal insulation layer. But for open balconies, leveling is most often done by pouring screed along the beacons:

1. We install beacon profiles on the base, forming a slight slope towards the street. This is done in order to rainwater did not accumulate on the floor, much less flow into the room.

1. We install metal corners around the perimeter, which are designed to strengthen the edges of the screed. You can also secure the perimeter with beams or boards with a thickness of 30 mm or more - they will prevent the solution from spilling over the edges of the balcony.
2. We prepare a solution for pouring, using cement grade M300 and higher as a binder. We add plasticizers to the solution for rapid spreading and hardeners that accelerate polymerization.

1. Fill the screed, carefully ensuring that there are no cavities in the solution. Roll the fresh solution with a needle roller to remove air bubbles.
2. Two to three hours after pouring, we remove the beacons, and fill the grooves formed in the ceiling with solution. We rub the surface, removing the largest irregularities and trying to get the smoothest possible finish.

We dry the screed as usual: under a plastic film, with periodic moistening of the surface. Poured concrete takes 28 days to dry, but this time can be reduced by adding hardeners to the solution. Anyway, further work should be postponed for at least two weeks.

Step 2. Insulation

Preparatory work

By insulating the floor on the balcony, we will reduce the overall level of heat loss in the room by about 5 - 8%. In addition, the thermal insulation procedure ensures the formation of an acceptable microclimate for the balcony or loggia, so it is definitely worth spending time and money on this.

Even an unheated balcony will be more comfortable if we carry out the work according to the following scheme:

1. First, we treat the base with a primer with antiseptic components. This is done in order to prevent the development of fungi, which will feel quite comfortable under a layer of insulation.
2. Next, we decide on the thermal insulation material. Here everything depends not only on what result we want to get, but also on the configuration of the balcony. The thing is that when deciding how to raise the floor high, we should make sure that the raised covering will not interfere balcony door forge: sometimes this imposes serious restrictions on the choice of thermal insulation.

1. After this, we proceed to install the frame for the insulation. If the concrete slab has not previously been waterproofed, we place several layers of plastic film under the frame.
2. Then we cut out logs from timber with a cross-section of at least 40x40 mm, which we lay on the floor. We attach the outermost joist to the wall with metal brackets, and place all the rest at the same level with it on support bars.

It is very convenient to align the logs on a plane using plastic mounting wedges, which are used when installing PVC windows. Such wedges do not deform under compression and do not swell in a humid environment, and their price is only slightly higher than that of wooden ones.

1. The optimal step between the joists is 60-70 cm (this way the floor will not sag), but I prefer to focus on the width thermal insulation material.

Installation of thermal insulation

You can insulate the floor on the balcony using different materials. I usually use these options:

• expanded clay or perlite - if the configuration allows you to raise the level of the subfloor by at least 20 cm (or better by 30 - 40);

For more efficient functioning, the expanded clay layer can be filled with a very liquid cement mortar.

• polystyrene foam or polystyrene - an economical option that allows you to most effectively insulate the floor on the loggia, raised above the base by 10-12 cm;
• mineral wool- the best solution, since along with good thermal insulation potential, mineral wool has acceptable vapor permeability.

I do the work like this:

1. If expanded clay is used, then I pour it directly onto the floor so that there is about 30 mm left to the top edge of the lag.

1. I adjust the panels of thermal insulation material in size to the cells between the joists of the subfloor. This is done so that the insulation on one side does not wrinkle, and on the other, large cracks do not form during installation.
2. I put polystyrene foam or mineral wool in the space between the joists. At the same time, I carefully ensure that there remains between the insulation and the rough flooring. ventilation gap 3-5 cm.
3. I fill all cracks and gaps with self-expanding polyurethane foam.

1. I put a layer of vapor barrier on top. When choosing what to cover with insulation, I usually give preference to foil film or thin polyethylene foam with a metallized coating. These materials not only protect the thermal insulation layer from moisture, but also play the role of a “mirror” reflecting infrared rays back into the room .
2. I lay a subfloor on top of the vapor barrier. It can be made from boards, chipboard or plywood (preferably moisture-resistant) with a thickness of 15 cm.

It is not at all necessary to make the floor on the balcony with your own hands using exactly this algorithm. However, for a glazed loggia, which will be used, if not as a partial living space, then at least as a recreation area, neither waterproofing, nor screeding, nor insulation should be neglected.

In addition, do not forget about the floor covering itself: in many ways it determines how comfortable the room will be. I will devote the next section to the key aspects of the selection and installation of materials for this stage of work.

Step 3. Installation of flooring

Review of materials

It is impossible to say unequivocally which flooring on the balcony is better: each coating has its own scope of application, its advantages and disadvantages. That is why here I will provide a brief overview of the main materials, and then describe the installation algorithms for the most commonly used ones.

So, what to put on the subfloor to finish a balcony or loggia? We look at the table and select:

Material	Features of use
Tile	It is with the help of tiles (ceramic, clinker or porcelain stoneware) that the floor on a non-sealed balcony is most often finished. The material is quite expensive, but then the structure is not afraid of moisture, temperature changes, or climatic influences.
Polymer self-leveling floors	Another fairly modern solution that allows you to maximally protect the base from moisture. Small area balcony allows you to fill even quite expensive polyurethane mixtures - all the same, the material consumption will be moderate.
Plank floor	Natural wood is most often used for finishing glazed balconies and loggias. At the same time, open structures can also be finished with wood - planken and decking work well here. Wood-polymer composite (WPC) should be included in the same category: they are not at all afraid of moisture, and visually it is difficult to distinguish them from natural wood. They are, however, expensive, and do not withstand severe frosts very well, but they are easy to install with your own hands.
Linoleum	An economical option, which is usually implemented on balconies in standard high-rise buildings. Since the level of pedestrian traffic here is relatively small, you can use household models. The main thing is that the backing is thicker - then walking on the floor will be much more pleasant.

Naturally, to the question of how to cover the floor on the balcony, other answers can be given: this and cork laminate on a moisture-resistant basis made of pressed cellulose, and a soft floor - a puzzle, which is assembled from individual polymer elements, and other floor coverings.

Here it is important to choose an option that will meet the operating conditions and easily tolerate periodic humidification and temperature changes that are inevitable on a balcony or loggia.

Tiling technology

Choosing what to put on open loggia, many often opt for the option with tiles or clinker tiles. The method of its installation is practically no different from the method of tiling floors in other rooms. So here I will give only the main points of the algorithm:

1. For cladding we choose exclusively floor tiles- especially since you need very little of it.
2. We prime the base, impregnating it with an antiseptic penetrating compound.
3. We prepare tile adhesive with good adhesive ability. For open balconies, it is advisable to take moisture-resistant brands of glue that are elastic and not afraid of temperature changes.

1. Apply the adhesive composition using a grater to both the base and the tile.
2. We lay the tiles on the floor, press them down and carefully level them (maintaining a slight slope towards the outer wall of the balcony).
3. To maintain a constant width of the seams between the cladding elements, we use special spacers.
4. After cladding, remove any remaining glue from the surface and leave the balcony for about 12 hours.

1. Then we remove the spacer crosses,, if necessary, unstitch the seams and grout them. You can use any type of grout moisture-resistant composition, but here I would recommend focusing on polymer materials: although they are more expensive and more difficult to apply, they are not at all afraid of moisture after polymerization.

Finishing the balcony with tiles is completed after the grout has completely dried: all we have to do is wash the surface of the tiles, removing any remaining glue and jointing mixture from it.

Laying linoleum

If for open balconies the default finishing option is ceramic tiles, then when decorating a glazed loggia, inexperienced craftsmen are often interested in how to lay linoleum. There are several nuances here:

1. We take the linoleum roll onto the balcony and leave it there for at least a day. All the same, deformations of the coating cannot be avoided (temperature changes here are sharper than in an apartment), but it is very important that the material is sufficiently stable at the time of installation.
2. Then we roll out the covering on the floor and perform rough trimming. Along the walls we leave a margin of 40-50 mm for shrinkage of the canvas.
3. It is possible to lay linoleum on the balcony without glue, but I still prefer glue installation as it is more reliable. To do this, I fold the roll in half and apply a layer of PVA-based glue to the freed part of the subfloor.

1. I unfold the linoleum back and smooth it, removing folds and air pockets.
2. I repeat the operations for the second half of the material.
3. 12 hours after gluing, I perform the final trimming: trimming the edges so that the gap to the wall is about 5 mm.
4. The work is completed by installing a plinth around the perimeter of the balcony and fixing the edge of the canvas at the entrance with a small threshold, which should fit closely to the balcony.

Conclusion

Of course, you can finish the floor on the balcony using other technologies. However, the algorithms I have proposed will be useful not only for beginners, but also for experienced finishers, so before starting repair work, you should carefully study the video in this article, which contains a number of useful recommendations.

In addition, you can seek advice on arranging floors on the balcony by asking a question in the comments.

Most people living in urban areas have a balcony. Everyone decides for themselves whether it is a storage room, a warehouse for unnecessary rubbish, or a modern, elegant extension of the apartment.

While you are deciding on the purpose of your premises. Let's look at the materials and methods of finishing the floor on the balcony.

If we decide to make a continuation of the apartment, then we need a high insulation coefficient. If it’s for storage, you can choose a cheaper option.

If we use a balcony as an open space, then materials that are not afraid of temperature changes will help us. high humidity. You will be able to realize all your ideas, think over the smallest details, choose finishing materials depending on the purpose of the balcony you have chosen.

Wooden floor on the balcony

Wooden floors are usually installed in well-ventilated and sealed balconies and loggias.

Hardwoods such as Oak and Yew are well suited for flooring. Medium and soft rocks are less suitable, as they are more susceptible to decay.

To prevent rotting and destroy pests, complete treatment with special solutions is required. You can make a wooden floor on the balcony with your own hands, for this we need to remove all the debris and repair all the chips and uneven areas.

After this, you need to take care of waterproofing, usually thick polyethylene or bitumen insulation. After this, we set the guides (logs) using a building level.

The logs can be placed both along and across the balcony, maintaining a distance of 50-60 cm. They are attached with dowels to the base of the concrete floor.

We process the resulting design special composition, which protects against moisture and bacteria. Insulation is placed in the resulting cavities; this can be polystyrene foam, mineral wool and other components.

The next stage is laying the boards on the joists. The boards are positioned transversely to the guide and secured with nails or self-tapping screws. The decorative covering is mounted on top of the boards (subfloor). After this, you can begin installing the plinth.

The most important advantage of a wooden floor on a balcony is that it is easy and quick to make with your own hands. As well as minimal load on the concrete floor. Mainly used in glazed, warm balconies.

Floor screed on the balcony

With this method of forming a floor on a balcony, it is necessary to understand such concepts as loggia and balcony. What are their similarities and differences?

• The balcony is located on a slab, which is connected to the structure of the house at one point. Therefore, finishing the balcony needs to be made as light as possible so as not to overload the slab.
• The loggia is located on a slab, which is connected to the structure of the house at three points. The surface load has little effect on the quality of the slab. When finishing a loggia, it is possible to use almost all materials and technologies.

That is, the screed is perfect for a loggia, where there are practically no restrictions on the load. It is not recommended to use screed on the balcony, since the average thickness of the layer without heating is 3-4 cm.

And with the use of heated floor technology, all 4-6 cm. If we take an average balcony, then the mass of the screed will be approximately 450-600 kg. And this is without finishing coat.

We remove the debris, then prime the surface and wait for it to dry completely. After the primer has dried, we lay a vapor barrier, usually a layer of polystyrene foam.

Then a layer of waterproofing is laid, usually a thick oilcloth. Afterwards, the surface of the balcony is leveled with a screed made of sand-cement mixture, in a ratio of 3:1. We prime it with at least 2-3 layers.

Floor tiles on the balcony

A distinctive property of the tile is its durability and resistance to temperature changes. The tiles look beautiful on the floor and are also easy to clean.

Not a big drawback, it's that the tiles are very cold material, but this drawback can be solved with the help of a warm floor under a tiled covering.

The tiles have 5 wear resistance classes; the colder it is on the balcony, the higher the class the tile should have.

• Class 4-5 tiles are used for open and unglazed balconies with large dynamic loads.
• Class 2-3 tiles are used for a glazed and warm balcony with an average dynamic load.

Before laying the tiles, you need to prepare the floor on the balcony. We carry out the entire sequence of operations, as indicated in the section above, floor screed on the balcony.

After all the preparatory work, you can begin laying the tiles; to do this, apply the adhesive solution in an even layer using a spatula and comb.

Now large selection adhesives for tiles, they are selected depending on the conditions:

• Are there heated floors or not?
• Is the balcony glazed or not?

You can also use cement and sand in a ratio of 1 to 4, everything is thoroughly mixed with water and the solution is ready. The choice is yours.

It is recommended to lay out the tiles from the far corner, one piece at a time. Tap the surface of the tile with a rubber hammer until the required level, and also in this way the tile is in close contact with the adhesive base.

To ensure that all seams are similar, crosses are used. The size of the seam is adjusted by the size of the tile crosses. Another important point is that you should not skimp on glue, this is due to the fact that if a cavity forms under the tile, deformation and destruction of the tile itself is possible.

After all the tiles have been laid out and all the edges have been trimmed, you can remove the crosses from the seams between the tiles and grout them grout mixtures. Recommendations from professionals: use the finished coating no earlier than 2-3 days after completion of work.

Self-leveling floor on the balcony

The next flooring option for loggias and balconies is a self-leveling floor. But this is not possible without surface preparation. We carry out the same sequence as for the screed.

When the screed is covered with primer and everything is dry, we apply the self-leveling floor. In a bucket, according to the manufacturer's instructions, we dilute the working mixture; for this it is best to use a hammer drill attachment.

The resulting solution has a consistency similar to sour cream. Since the resulting solution begins to set quite quickly, you will have to act quickly and carefully.

The process of mold and mildew formation will begin and a characteristic odor will appear. Recently, special synthetic and natural linoleums have appeared that are not afraid of negative factors. But the price of such materials is very high.

This leads to the conclusion that linoleums are best used only in well-insulated enclosed loggias and balconies.

To lay linoleum, you will also need to prepare the surface, this can be like a screed, wooden floor and self-leveling floor. Before laying linoleum on the prepared surface, it must be rolled out and allowed to sit for a couple of days, it should stretch and level out.

We adjust it to the size of the room. After it has rested, it must be rolled up to the middle. Apply glue thin layer on the back side of the linoleum, as well as on the surface of the prepared coating, roll out the linoleum, press down and walk over it prepared rubber roller. We install the baseboards and you're done.

Electric floor on the balcony

If your balcony or loggia is completely glazed. You will need heating appliances. Traditional ones are bulky and clumsy, and there’s not enough space.

A floor heating system will come to our aid. Most best option- This is an electric floor. The system weighs practically nothing, and copes with the heating task no worse than traditional devices.

This type coating is an expensive pleasure, but it fully justifies itself with the arrival of cold weather. And so we prime the surface of the base. C, we lay heating mats on top and make wiring.

The mats are not large in size, so they are laid out to their full length one after another until the entire surface of the balcony is filled. This is a rough run, we connected everything, made sure that there were no empty spaces, we rewind everything.

We remove the debris and prime again. The final installation is done using an adhesive mat base, all wires are insulated. Afterwards, we fill it with screed, followed by installation of the finishing material on the heated floor on the balcony (laminate, tiles). This type of floor is only suitable for closed balconies and loggias.

Floor painting

In the case when you don’t have time to do repairs or don’t want to. You can resort to the dyeing method. Nowadays there are special paints for concrete.

They contain polymers that protect the surface concrete floor, from the temperature gradient, high humidity, the occurrence of erosion. The coloring composition does not fade in the sun and has a wide range of colors.

Paints for concrete are divided into:

• Epoxy.
• Acrylic.
• Polyurethane.

All these paints are great for painting floors on the balcony. The dynamic load on the balcony is not large, so the paint will last a long time without losing its functions. Easy and convenient, you can repaint the floor surface.

Other types of flooring on the balcony

We have discussed the main types of flooring on the balcony. But there are still many other ways to make a floor on a balcony. Such as laying laminate, decking, garden parquet.

Laminate is afraid of moisture and is used mainly in closed, insulated balconies - a good substitute for parquet and wooden floors.

And decking and garden parquet are modern composite, polymer materials, suitable for both glazed and non-glazed balconies.

Decking is a wood-polymer composite. It has a board shape and is equipped with fastening mechanisms. It collects on a concrete surface in a short time.

It has great strength and reliability. It was developed by specialists for outdoor use; the weight of the element is not significant, which is very important when used on a balcony. There is another not unimportant aesthetic fact, it is very similar to real boardwalk.

Garden parquet is a wood-polymer composite or wood. Thanks to special technologies deep processing, parquet is durable, does not biodegrade, under any aggressive influences.

Garden parquet is convenient to use in balconies of any complexity, as it is produced in blocks with locking connections.

This will allow you to quickly install the flooring without any problems. Also, when not needed, it can be easily and conveniently dismantled, with the possibility of subsequent use.

More expensive options:

• Natural stone.
• Marble.
• Granite.
• Cork.

Natural stone, marble and granite are some of the most durable and expensive natural materials, and also have a lot of weight. Because of this, they can only be used on loggias.

The main disadvantage is that the materials are very cold; even in summer you will have to wear slippers.

Cork does not tolerate moisture. The service life of such a floor is 3-4 years, and then the cork collapses and becomes like dust.

When choosing a floor for a balcony, you need to consider many factors:

• Condition of the balcony slab
• Indoor humidity
• Temperature
• Cost of materials

The floor on a balcony or loggia, as a rule, is of two types: either concrete with floor covering, or wooden. The first option is colder and less comfortable, although it has a longer service life.

A wooden floor, if properly installed, can also last a long time, but due to its natural origin and the properties of wood, it is much warmer. This article will look at how you can arrange a wooden floor on a balcony or loggia.

Watch the video on how to lay a wooden floor on a balcony with your own hands

Advantages of a wooden floor

With proper arrangement of a structure of this type, you can get natural coating, which has low thermal conductivity. To achieve maximum effect and durability, it is imperative to protect the wood from exposure to temperature and humidity.

To ensure that the floor surface is level, during the installation process all logs should be leveled and securely fixed to the balcony slab. It is the logs that will bear all the loads from the boards laid on top of them.

The advantages of a floor made of boards laid on joists include the following indicators:

— long period of trouble-free operation;

- minimal load on the balcony slab (compared to installing a concrete floor);

- natural beauty of wood;

— no negative impact on the human body due to the natural origin of the material;

— the ability to level the floor by raising its level relative to the concrete slab.

Procurement work

As when arranging any structure, the first thing you should pay attention to is, of course, the choice of quality material. All wooden products should be treated with impregnation designed to protect them from the negative effects of moisture, which can cause the formation of rot.

There are two ways to cope with this problem:

1) independently treat purchased wooden building materials with impregnation;

2) or buy already impregnated logs and boards.

In the first case, the cost of funds will be less significant, but the inconvenience will be that you will have to do all the work of applying the impregnation yourself, and at the same time spend the time necessary to completely dry the wood.

Read also: Do-it-yourself wooden arch: types of arches, installation procedure

In the second, you can begin installation work immediately after purchasing the materials. The only drawback is the higher price.

Which of the two options is more suitable is a matter of personal preference.

Separately, it is worth noting that if you purchase products made from raw wood, you must keep them in the apartment for some time so that they dry out. If some products become crooked after drying, they should not be used for installation work, as this will create a lot of difficulties. To avoid additional problems, it is better to immediately purchase all wooden materials that have been dried and treated with impregnation.

We lay a wooden floor on the balcony with our own hands: surface preparation

The essence of this stage of work is the sequential implementation of such actions as:

1) dismantling the old floor;

2) dry and subsequent wet cleaning of construction debris and dust;

3) drying;

4) arrangement of rough concrete screed(in case of significant unevenness of the balcony slab).

Materials

For quality arrangement For a wooden floor on a loggia, you should purchase the following materials:

- oak timber (logs are formed from it);

— batten(already treated with impregnation and calibrated in thickness);

— polyurethane foam for closing cracks;

— waterproofing in the form of a film;

— expanded polystyrene or mineral wool for thermal insulation (or other material with similar characteristics).

Tools

The list of tools required to perform installation work includes:

— a pry bar and a hammer (for dismantling an old wooden floor);

- a broom or vacuum cleaner for dry cleaning, and a rag with water for wet cleaning;

- roulette;

- jigsaw or wood saw;

- electric drill;

— cordless screwdriver;

- professional stapler;

— a small building level (so that you can conveniently work with it on the balcony);

— stationery knife (for separating sheets of insulation).

Installation work

In order to properly install a wooden floor on a loggia the first time, it is necessary to consistently carry out each stage of work. Let's look at them in detail.

Laying waterproofing

Since the balcony is in direct contact with environment and is susceptible to moisture from all kinds of precipitation, waterproofing work should be approached very carefully. To do this, it is necessary to carry out high-quality sealing of all cracks using special plaster or polyurethane foam. Then a layer of film waterproofing is laid. If it is made of pieces, then at the junction points it is necessary to place two sheets with an overlap of about 15–20 cm and connect them together with aluminum tape.

Read also: Soundproofing walls: how and with what you can make your own soundproofing in an apartment

Installation of logs

There are two options:

1) use only longitudinal logs (less expensive option);

2) first install transverse logs, and on top of them - longitudinal ones.

Since the balcony area is small, in most cases it will be enough to lay only 3 longitudinal products. The first of them is located directly next to the wall of the building, the second - in the center, and the third - near the edge of the balcony. All of them must be parallel to the load-bearing wall.

Fixing the log to concrete slab balcony can be done in two ways:

1) using anchors of a suitable size;

2) or use dowels and quick-installation screws.

Although, at first glance, there is nothing special about performing this stage of work, this is far from the case. The fact is that it depends on the correct installation of the joists whether the surface of the wooden floor will be flat or not. Therefore, in order to avoid mistakes, you should approach installation work very responsibly.

To create an ideal flat surface, it is necessary that all joists made of wooden beam, were horizontal in level. As a rule, in some places you will have to lift the wooden beam relative to the balcony slab and install wooden inserts in the resulting gap, fixing them with self-tapping screws (connect them into a single unit with the beam).

If we are talking about a loggia, it is best to use the second option. In this case, first, transverse logs are installed at a distance of 400 to 500 mm from each other (they are fixed to the concrete slab in the same way as described above), and longitudinal logs are laid on top of them. To connect the latter to the former, long wood screws are used, deepening their heads into the wood by approximately 15–20 mm.

Be sure to install all the joists in such a way that none of them comes into contact with the wall.

Advice: Before installation work The height of all materials intended to form the floor should be calculated. Their finishing height should be less than or equal to the height of the threshold of the balcony or loggia.

Laying a layer of insulation

In the space between the joists it is necessary to lay insulation, which can be mineral wool or polystyrene foam (or other material with similar functions). If there is a small space in height between the insulation and the floorboard, this will not create any problems. On the contrary, it will contribute to better thermal insulation.

Many people use the balcony to store necessary, and sometimes unclaimed, things. At the same time, they rarely think about how to improve this place. The design of the site begins with the concept, selection of the appropriate style, drawing up a diagram, selection of materials for finishing the walls and flooring. One of the most important operations is arranging the floor on the balcony, leveling its surface, laying tiles, linoleum, and other building materials.

Having decided to carry out repairs, the first thing you need to do is determine the condition of the external structure. For old houses, the terrace is a weak point, since the concrete is constantly exposed to precipitation, which leads to its destruction. In this case, you need to carefully and carefully consider additional loads that may appear during the process. construction work, to strengthen the object in question as much as possible.

Features of floors on the balcony

The balcony slab is connected to load-bearing wall the building is only on one side, less often on two (corner design options), the rest of it is not secured by anything. This position makes the site very limited in terms of loads, which affects the choice of finishing and materials for flooring. Major renovation requires a detailed study of the state of the platform. It is impossible to carry out such work without special engineering skills.

The choice of leveling method, as well as the finishing coating, depends not only on the plans of the homeowners, but also on the specifics of the architectural element and the features of its operation. If for a loggia it is permissible to level the floors with a regular screed, then on a balcony such a base will create a huge load, so before carrying out this kind of work, it will be necessary not only to repair the slab, but also to strengthen it. Also, when leveling the floor, certain rules must be followed:

• It is unacceptable to apply a thick layer of screed, as well as laying cement mortar on top of the old coating;
• When leveling wet method it is necessary to prevent possible leaks of the solution;
• On an unglazed balcony, a slight slope of the slab of up to 5° should be provided to ensure water drainage;
• For open structures It is better to use frost-resistant linoleum or ceramic tiles as a finishing floor covering;
• Often used in glazed rooms wooden frame, covered with parquet, laminate, and other materials.

The minimum layer of screed is 2-2.5 cm, with the addition of waterproofing it will increase to 3.5 cm, and if a thermal insulation layer is provided, its thickness will be 5 cm (a platform 2 m long, 1 m wide will increase its weight by 250 kg). Given such loads, it is simply dangerous to do the work yourself without the involvement of specialists.

Types of ties, their features and do-it-yourself manufacturing technology

There are several ways in which you can level the floor. In some cases it is enough to cosmetic repairs slabs, and sometimes without applying cement mortar or installation wooden logs there's simply no way around it. Work always begins with preparing the surface, checking it for cracks and potholes. Particular attention must be paid to the line of contact of the slab with the load-bearing wall of the building.

For open balconies that are not protected from temperature changes and precipitation, a coating that has frost-resistant characteristics and is resistant to moisture is required. TO glazed structures, protected from wind, rain, snow, the requirements for the screed are much softer. Here you can use the entire list, which includes such types of alignment as:

• wet screed;
• self-leveling (self-leveling floor);
• dry;
• semi-dry;
• on adjustable joists.

Regardless of the degree of protection of the balcony, any design requires a layer of waterproofing, which can be done by installing rolled material, applying it to concrete surface special primer, coating compositions. Such protection will not allow moisture to pass through or absorb. It is not always advisable to install a layer of thermal insulation for unglazed rooms, unlike closed terraces, which do not make sense to glaze without such an addition.

“Wet screed” - advantages, disadvantages and pouring technology

This method is chosen if it is necessary to level the base and give it the required slope, while rarely the task is to insulate the room or raise the floor level. For a platform with minor damage and differences not exceeding 3 cm, you can use a self-leveling floor; significant defects and irregularities can be eliminated by applying a layer cement-sand mortar, the thickness of which should be within 3-5 cm; if the layer is thinner, the screed may crack; a thick layer will lead to overload.

Leveling the surface with a wet screed is the simplest method that does not require significant costs. The disadvantages of the coating include the heavy weight, which not all balcony ceilings can withstand, as well as the long drying time of the solution (10-14 days).

The step-by-step process of applying a wet screed is as follows:

1. The first stage of work will be preparing the foundation. We clean it from flaking parts of the material, sagging, then seal the cracks. If the slab is already covered with a screed that is unsuitable for use, dismantle it and carefully knock it down with a hammer drill. After which we clean the surface of debris, dust, and degrease.
2. The next step is to apply a layer of waterproofing mixture, mastic, film, which should protrude at least 10 cm upward along the edges. For open balconies, a layer of thermal insulation is not needed, but for glazed structures it is simply necessary. Therefore, the next step will be to install thermal insulation. To do this, you can use solid sheet products, such as penoplex, polyurethane, or bulk products - expanded clay, slag. The thickness of the layer must be at least 5 cm.
3. Some owners who prefer to comfortably use this room in winter time year, install a heated floor system. For a wet screed, this design can be made in two ways: water, electric. For the first option, the water circuit tubes are located directly in the screed, for the second - under the floor covering, on top of the screed.
4. Having decided on one or another option for insulation or underfloor heating, we proceed to the next stage, installing the reinforcing mesh. It is better to give preference to it rather than to reinforcement bars, which will only increase the already heavy load. Next, we install the formwork (on open slabs), after which we set the beacons according to the level and fix them with a solution. The distance between them should not exceed 50 cm.
5. Having completed the preparatory work, we proceed to preparing the solution. The ratio of cement and sand in it should be 1:3. These components are mixed dry manually or mechanically, after which water is added until a solution is obtained whose consistency resembles thick sour cream (use 2 liters of water for 10 kg of mixture). To improve quality and increase the frost resistance threshold, we use a plasticizer, which can be either liquid or powder.
6. Pour the mixture onto the prepared surface, then use the rule to make a screed and pull it in one direction. It is not necessary to remove the beacons; we remove the formwork after 1-2 days. After the solution hardens, use the sharp side of the rule to remove the sagging. To prevent the screed from cracking, we periodically moisten it with water on top and cover it with plastic wrap.

Semi-dry screed - pros, cons and installation

This is a more advanced look. The secret of the solution lies in special additives, namely plasticizers and fiber fibers. These components make the structure more elastic and prevent cracks. The screed is lighter in weight, dries within 12 hours, and the flooring can be laid after 4 days. Among the disadvantages, the complexity of the technology should be highlighted. Get the right mixture manually almost impossible; mixing will require special equipment that is not available to a home specialist. The installation of such a screed is as follows:

1. When carrying out repairs or replacing old coatings, we dismantle all layers to the base.
2. We thoroughly clean the surface of debris and dust. We clean out all the irregularities sandpaper, we fill the damaged areas with non-shrinking cement mortar.
3. Next, we install waterproofing from high-quality polyethylene film, at least 100 microns.
4. For thermal insulation, only high-quality materials are used: polystyrene boards, smooth or with formatted columns, foam plastic covered with polyethylene film.
5. The limitation in the types of thermal insulation is due to the lack of a reinforcing layer and the need to install a heated floor system with pipes secured directly to the insulation.
6. There are strict requirements for the installation of beacons; it is recommended to use factory versions (T-profile).
7. To make the solution, Portland cement, grade no lower than M-400, and sifted sand are used in a ratio of 1:3. It is also necessary to add fiber fiber in the amount of 0.6 kg per m³ of solution, 10 g of plasticizer per 1 kg of cement, and 0.7 liters of water per 10 kg.
8. After laying the solution, it is compacted and leveled with the rule.

This coating can only be installed on a glazed, insulated balcony. This is due to the fact that the semi-dry mixture, even after hardening, is afraid of water. If moisture gets in, there is a high probability of cement crystallization, which will lead to a significant decrease in the strength of the structure.

Dry floor screed - advantages and disadvantages, installation technology

One of the best options for arranging coverage. The design performs several functions at once - it insulates the floor while leveling it. Installation is quick, after which you can immediately begin installing the flooring. At the same time, in addition to the heated floor system, it is easy to place communications and electrical wiring in the loose layer. This type of floor arrangement is not suitable for unglazed balconies. If moisture gets into the dry mixture, a moldy odor may develop, which will lead to the need to replace it. Installation of such alignment is carried out as follows:

1. As in previous cases, we begin the work by preparing the base, removing debris, dust, and covering the cracks with cement mortar.
2. The first layer is laid sound insulation in the form of an edge strip, which will help get rid of noise. Then we install the waterproofing film.
3. If it is necessary to install a water-type heated floor, we lay profile polystyrene foam on the waterproofing layer, on top of which we mount the water circuit tubes. Installation of electric infrared film occurs after installing OSB, GVL, and DSP boards.
4. At the next stage, we set up the beacons using a U-shaped profile.
5. We fill in the expanded clay, level the surface with the rule, and then remove the beacons.
6. We lay gypsum-fiber and cement-bonded sheets on the resulting surface.

Advantages and disadvantages of wooden floors

A classic wooden floor can be made by almost anyone with minimal woodworking skills. At the same time, the frame does not create a large load on the slab and allows you to raise and insulate the floor. The installation process involves making a sheathing covered with slabs or boards on top. Wood does not tolerate moisture well and is a breeding ground for various types of pests, fungi, and microorganisms.

Let's look at the order of work:

1. We clean the surface and lay a layer of waterproofing.
2. Racks require a level base. We lay 50x50 mm bars on top of the waterproofing layer, fasten them to the base using dowels, the distance between which is 40-50 cm. If it is necessary to increase the height of the floor, we change the size of the bars, stack them on top of each other, place transverse boards on longitudinal ones or, conversely, connect with self-tapping screws.
3. We lay insulation between the joists using materials such as mineral wool, expanded clay, and extruded polystyrene foam.
4. We cover the logs with boards, plywood, OSB, DSP, GVL boards.
5. Let's begin the final finishing.
6. Warm floor water and electric type installed on top of the insulation layer, before covering the logs with slabs.

Choosing flooring: their features and characteristics

When arranging a balcony, it is important to choose high-quality finishing materials so that you do not have to carry out repair work in an inconvenient season for this process and in an uncomfortable environment. The floor covering must fully match the type of room. You can create a truly attractive design if you take into account all the features - the need for insulation, resistance to precipitation, and temperature changes. Choose suitable material from a huge list of options.

Ceramic tiles

One of the best options for a balcony floor that is exposed to an aggressive environment, is not heated, and does not have glazing. The material contains sand, clay, and water. Strong, durable elements come in several types. It is better to give preference to single-fired ceramics. The affordable material has the following advantages:

• Easy to process. It can be cut with either a specialized tool or an amateur one;
• A wide variety of shapes, colors, types of coatings, which allows you to create special interior on the balcony;
• good performance characteristics– abrasion resistance, frost resistance;
• Aesthetic appeal. You can create an original design using gres, cotto, and clinker ceramics.

When buying floor tiles, you should take it with a reserve. If there are not enough elements, products from another batch may not match the color, which will ruin general view. For a small loggia it is better to use large tiles. The fewer seams there are, the more spacious the room will seem. The downside is that the floor will be constantly cold.

Porcelain tiles

The material belongs to the category of the most durable balcony coverings. Porcelain tiles can be used to cover any open surface in the harshest climatic conditions. It does not have a porous structure and has maximum density. The material can withstand significant loads for many years without compromising its functional or aesthetic qualities.

With the help of porcelain stoneware, a balcony can be turned into a full-fledged room. The material can imitate natural stone, leather, wood, mosaic. During manufacturing, products are subjected to high-temperature firing, which improves their characteristics. Disadvantages include high cost and heavy weight.

Linoleum

One of the most affordable types of coatings. It’s easy to do the installation on the balcony with your own hands. The material is very popular due to its ease of maintenance and a large list of positive characteristics. Properly laid flooring on a concrete slab provides good protection against the penetration of dust and moisture. In order for the flooring on the balcony to retain its original appearance for a long time, you should select a suitable material that fully meets the needs of the room. You should pay attention to the following types:

• Glypthal. The coating applied to the fabric has good sound insulation and keeps the floor warm. It can only be laid on heated balconies, since the material cracks at low temperatures;
• Colloxylin. It has no reinforcement, therefore it is very thin and elastic, and has high moisture resistance. It has a characteristic shine, thanks to the nitrocellulose in the composition. Suitable only for glazed balconies, since its design does not allow the material to withstand temperatures above 35 degrees;
• Rubber based. Would be appropriate on an open balcony. The material does not absorb moisture and is easy to clean. It is not recommended to use this type of finishing in regions with harsh winters. In severe frost, cracks may form;
• PVC based. The most popular and reasonable option for a balcony. They can cover both open and closed spaces. It is waterproof, lightweight, flexible and aesthetically pleasing.

Laminate

The service life and wear will depend on the choice of high-quality coating. The floor on a laminate balcony must be durable, so it is better to give preference to its special classes (31 and above). The covering can be laid in a warm room, with high-quality double-glazed windows, insulated railings, walls, and partitions.

The basis of the laminate is chipboards covered with paper with a characteristic pattern and a protective resin layer with an acrylic structure. Laying on the balcony should only take place on a special substrate. Its purpose is to smooth out unevenness, protect against moisture, and eliminate excess noise.

Carpet

Can be used on glazed and open balconies. There are many types of floor carpet, so you should choose it as a floor covering after studying the features of each. Material made from natural raw materials retains heat well, is soft and pleasant to the touch. It is better to lay it in a room with good double glazed windows when the loggia is used as an office or recreation area. If clothes are often dried on the balcony or flower beds are organized, the floor is best made of artificial carpet with a rubber base. The following types have good density and wear resistance:

• Nylon. Practical, resistant to deformation. Easy to clean, retains color and texture for a long time;
• Made from polyester. It has a long pile and a characteristic shine, resistant to bacteria and fungi;
• With polypropylene fiber. On the balcony it is better to lay material that has undergone special treatment (suprim, terklon);
• Acrylic. Does not absorb moisture, easy to clean.

Parquet

Natural material has all the necessary characteristics for flooring on a balcony. It is quite expensive, but if your budget allows, it is better to spend money on a couple of squares of oak, ash, and maple parquet. There are many options for standard sizes, which allows you to choose the appropriate elements for your general style rooms.

It is not rational to use parquet on an open balcony. It will last much longer in a dry and warm room. The disadvantages include the difficulty of installing it yourself and the need for processing. It will have to be periodically updated by varnishing, puttying, sanding, and painting.

Tree

Natural wooden floorboards are often used as flooring on balconies and loggias. This is the best option for rooms without heating. The visually attractive material has low thermal conductivity and will fit into absolutely any interior.

Using wood, you can level out some defects in the balcony slab. The plank flooring on the joists will raise the floor to the level inside the room and hide the unevenness of the base. With the help of any wooden structure high-quality insulation can be carried out. The material can be used even on old balconies with dilapidated concrete slabs. A light tree will not burden them. All the shortcomings inherent in the material can be easily eliminated with the help of fire retardants, stains, antiseptics, painting and varnishing.

Raw materials for production cork covering crushed bark serves. The main advantage of this flooring is its naturalness and environmental friendliness. During the manufacturing process, the material goes through several processing stages. The finished cork floor has good vapor permeability, has excellent thermal insulation properties, absorbs noise, and when deformed quickly takes its original shape, but is not cheap. Disadvantages - quick abrasion. The following types of material are used as flooring:

• Tile. There is floating and adhesive. The elements look like tiles or parquet. Service life in low-traffic areas – up to 10 years;
• Panels. Dense parts, 4 mm thick. They come in different shapes and sizes and have a natural woody color;
• Canvas. With its help you can make a smooth, seamless floor.

Durable, reliable material can serve as either an independent or rough coating. It can subsequently be finished with laminate, ceramic tiles, parquet board. It is indispensable on open balconies. Self-leveling mixtures consist of polymers, mineral fillers, and binders. The choice of self-leveling floor is influenced by the following factors:

1. Climatic parameters. For open terraces and balconies, a hydrophobic frost-resistant mixture should be used;
2. Design features. For balconies with limited loads, it is necessary to choose lightweight self-leveling materials. They consist of cement and crushed expanded clay;
3. Operating conditions. In rooms with large dynamic and static loads, it is better to use durable cement, cement-gypsum compositions.

Painting

The simplest option for finishing the floor on the balcony. You can simply go over the concrete slab a few times with exterior paint. This coating will last up to 3 years. When choosing it, you should take into account that it will not be durable, since it is not designed for loads or pressure.

It will be necessary to paint the finished board floor. It is better to use exterior paint of the appropriate shade. Before applying the mixture, wooden floors should be treated with a primer and hydrogen peroxide should be applied to the protruding areas with resin. For the floor on the balcony, you can use alkyd, silicone, water-based, latex paint compositions.

The flooring material should be selected taking into account its characteristics and features. It must be durable, high quality, easy to install and repair, and fairly light. You should also take into account the condition of the load-bearing slabs of the balcony. If they have lost their strength over the years, do not overload them. Any material from an extensive list will retain its original appearance and properties only if used correctly.

For an open balcony

You can protect the cement coating from damaging moisture by applying any finishing coating. Dust and debris will not accumulate on such a balcony. For open-type balconies, it is necessary to form an inclined layer from the wall. This will ensure free flow of water. It is better to carry out external finishing work with the following materials:

• Enamels and paints;

For a glazed/warm balcony

For a glazed balcony with heating, the choice of materials is much simpler. You can cover it with expensive, decorative materials for floor decoration. In order for the flooring to last longer, it should be separated from the concrete screed by at least a sheet of plywood. Mineral wool and expanded polystyrene are suitable as insulation. You can also use an electric floor. The finishing coating can be anything, even the most unusual for such a room:

• Carpet;
• Parquet;
• Laminate;
• Cork covering;
• Linoleum of any type.

Conclusion

Having made a firm decision to improve your balcony, you need to think through the repair work plan in detail, perform a thorough analysis of the condition of the protruding ceiling, and decide on the type of screed and material for the flooring. For open structures, the choice of raw materials is limited. In glazed rooms with thermal insulation and a heated floor system, almost any finish can be used. You can make repairs either yourself or seek the help of specialists.

The balcony is sometimes used as a storage room, a closet where unnecessary things are stored. But most owners of cottages, dachas and apartments decide to make additional cozy room with glazing. And for this you will need to properly lay a frost-resistant floor and insulate the room with penofol, and the windows with mineral wool. Therefore, the question arises: how to properly make repairs and insulation on the balcony with penoplex with your own hands, so as not to correct your mistakes over time? This article will discuss this issue, and also cover the topic of how to repair and make a ceiling, as well as a cork floor on a balcony with a hidden fire hatch with your own hands from various materials.

The choice of material depends on what type of balcony is required: open, glazed, whether there will be a vapor barrier. How much does it cost to make a removal to enlarge the balcony? The room will be used as a storage room or living room? You should also take into account the weight of the floor, since the designs are different, and this can result in different loads. All these questions must first be answered, and then you can start choosing materials and turnkey services.

If the glass balcony is cold, then simply painting or laying linoleum is enough, but for warm version make more attractive floors, such as tiles.

Structurally, they are divided into balconies and loggias. A balcony in a private house is an open space, without main walls, which is located on a hanging slab. Such structures were built mainly in the USSR. Loggias in a panel house are open or closed spaces, but they have load-bearing walls, and the floor is a floor slab. They are often covered with brickwork and inserted window units.
The main difference is that the balcony cannot withstand heavy loads, while the loggia can support furniture and brick walls.

Thus, there are these types:

• wooden;
• liquid;
• painted;
• linoleum;
• from tiles.

If the structure of the balcony in a new building is durable, then you can arrange the doors from glass, and the floor from natural or artificial stone. Otherwise, they make a wooden one from larch, since it is lightweight and inexpensive.

The following options are most suitable for an open balcony:

1. tiled;
2. screed under linoleum;
3. screed under concrete covering.

And for closed with plastic window sill This:

• cement screed with laminate, parquet or linoleum;
• wooden floor under parquet, linoleum or laminate.

Preparing tools and materials

Let's consider a universal set of tools and materials. It looks like this:

Surface preparation

First you need to remove all objects, be sure to clean the balcony of dirt, doors and dust. If there is an old coating, it should be dismantled. The screed, drop and fill, if any, must also be removed and all debris must be removed again.

When the floor has been opened, the slab is then leveled. It's done like this. When installing screeds, beacons or strips of metal are cut into sections equal to the width of the balcony and placed at a distance of about 50 centimeters. To level them, you need to place pieces of hardboard. The cork floor on an open balcony should be sloping towards the street so that all the water from rain and snow drains away. In order to secure the beacons, apply with a trowel cement mortar where the hardboard is placed. After a few hours, the beacons are checked for evenness and completely fixed.

Every other day they make an aluminum frame and formwork from beams. Pre-seal the gaps between the base and the beams with sealant.

The next step is to prime the base with a special deep-action primer. Prepare with your own hands, according to the instructions, pouring and cement mortar from the dry mixture to level and raise the floor, mixing until it becomes semolina porridge. Three kilograms of cement go into one bag of mixture.

Next, everything is carefully poured. First, the surface is leveled with a trowel, and then the rule is pressed against the ribs of the beacons. The screed takes several days to dry. Next, the formwork is removed and adjustments are made with a steep mortar. After final drying, metal corners are attached along the entire length of the screed.

Linoleum or painting

If the balcony is open without a roof, then it is easier to paint the screed with a special concrete paint for exterior use, since it is resistant to various influences.

You will need the following tools and materials:

• primer;
• special paint;
• brushes;
• roller

First, the surface is primed, and then paint is applied in several layers.

Linoleum is a more versatile option: it is suitable for both open and closed balconies. In addition, it has high strength, is environmentally friendly and fire-resistant.

What you need to prepare for installing linoleum:

1. linoleum;
2. glue;
3. glue brushes;
4. skirting boards;
5. fasteners for baseboards;
6. accessories;
7. cutting knife;
8. metal scissors;
9. square;
10. stitching roller.

A sheet of linoleum is placed on the primed screed. After 2-3 days, when the linoleum has stretched and leveled, it is cut off at the edges. Half of the linoleum is lifted and glue is applied. Next, return the sheet to the plank floor and press it tightly to the surface, rolling it with a roller. Similar actions are performed with the second half.

Fixed between linoleum and wall floor plinth. They connect it in the corners and close it with fittings. Don't forget to drill holes for underfloor ventilation to prevent condensation!

Ceramic tiles and heated floors

Ceramic tiles with a pattern are also suitable for open balconies and closed glass balconies. But if you want to use an unheated room as a living space, then you need to do it. It is safer to make an electric heated floor than a water one from central heating. It is better to choose rough tiles rather than glossy ones, otherwise you may slip if water gets on the surface.

Materials and tools required for work:

Glue the ceramic tiles onto the primed surface. The glue must be prepared according to the instructions. It is applied to the back of the tile. Laying begins from the far corner. Moreover, the first tile will need to be cut at an angle of 45 degrees. The glue is smoothed with a spatula comb, removing excess. A little of the mixture still needs to be applied to the screed.

When laying ceramic tiles, they are pressed against the screed and ground in. Next, spacer crosses are attached, which maintain the width of the seams. Lay out all the rows in the same way, while controlling the horizontality with a level. If the tile lies unevenly, then immediately correct it using a mallet or a wooden block. A tile cutter is required for the edge tiles. When the glue has dried, you need to insert the metal corners into the holes with dowels.

Now let's look at a small step by step instructions, how to change, make a warm floor on the balcony under tiles in Khrushchev according to SNiP.

If the thickness of the screed is less than 5 centimeters, then instead of a cable, use film, convector or electric mats. It should also be noted that due to the mats, the height of the heated floor rises by 1 centimeter, and the infrared heated floor is made under finishing coat, that is, tiles.

An interesting option is self-leveling flooring

Self-leveling dark floor is a durable French coating. It can be made in any color, but from an aesthetic point of view, it is less attractive than, for example, wood or tile. But at the same time it has advantages:

• wear-resistant;
• elastic;
• resistant to temperature fluctuations;
• waterproof.

For installation you will need a special mixture for self-leveling floors, fillers and pigments. The installation process differs in that the surface is generously primed several times. Moreover, each previous layer must dry. This takes a lot of time; a day after the last layer has dried, it is poured.

A solution is a liquid polymer coating, spreading evenly and forming a super-strong film. Its thickness is more than 2 millimeters. When preparing the mixture, you must strictly follow the attached instructions, since it contains polyurethane and epoxy polymers.

Wooden flooring is an option only for closed balconies

A wooden floor can only be made on a closed panoramic balcony, as it does not tolerate getting wet. Initially, the surface must be leveled and primed. Next, a thick layer is laid as waterproofing. plastic film. Then there are varnished or painted bars, they are leveled on the plane. The voids between them are filled with insulation. This can be polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam or glass wool. The wood used for double flooring is treated with special agents that protect against fungi, insects and increase fire resistance.

Adjustable joists are attached to the screed using dowels or long self-tapping screws. Next, you need to make your own sheathing from bars for further attaching plywood or decking boards to it. On such a subfloor you can then make any beautiful wooden covering: tongue and groove, parquet or laminate. Process and coat better than varnish or an oil-wax mixture.

When choosing a coating and design, it is better to familiarize yourself with the recommendations of professionals. For example:

Thus, the article described only popular types of balcony floors and their clapboard finishing technology. But there are others, for example, carpet, hardboard, parquet, laminate, chipboard, OSB, MDF, cork and others. You can read about them prices and reviews on thematic forums. What to choose, buy and lay is up to the apartment owner to decide. In any case, making the lining of the battery with a parapet, clapboard and the floor of the loggia with your own hands will not be difficult. The following video shows this process in more detail.