Have you ever heard about the wonderful climbing plant - kobe? This is a delightful perennial subshrub; it is also practiced as an annual crop. Today we will talk about the features of planting this amazing plant in open ground, and will also reveal to you the secrets of proper care for it. This will allow you to grow kobei on your own site. You can be convinced of the charm and beauty of the kobei by looking at the presented photo.

Kobeya is famous for its rapid growth, development and powerful root system. It is characterized by complex pinnate leaves, branched at the ends into tendrils, and stems, the length of which sometimes reaches more than 6 m. In addition, kobeya has large beautiful bell-shaped flowers with protruding stamens. Their delicate white or purple color leaves no one indifferent.

Kobeya climbing

There are 9 species of kobei in total. The most popular is climbing kobeya, which is also popularly called monastery bells. Its long shoots cling with their tendrils to all existing barriers. The leaves of the plant are openwork, they can create an attractive green carpet. Its flowers reach 8 cm in diameter and have a divine aroma. In just a couple of years, culture manages to consolidate itself certain area, and the annual one can be planted annually in any place convenient for you.

Planting kobei

Kobei, planting and caring for which will not seem difficult even for novice gardeners, will decorate any courtyard with their presence, making it colorful, lively and attractive. IN open ground Seedlings usually begin to be planted in May-June, when the weather is already warm outside. It is better to choose for her an open, unshaded area with good, fertile soil. Cold gusty winds have a bad effect on the plant.

Plant kobeya near a gazebo or hedge, the flower will create a beautiful living wall

For planting, holes are dug at a distance of 50-100 cm from each other and filled with a mixture of humus, peat and turf soil. Kobes are placed in them, dropped in drops and watered a little.

Advice. Install supports in advance so that the plant can gradually climb along them and not spread to other plantings.

Plant care

Nothing will decorate fences and decorative buildings like a magnificent kobeya. Caring for it is based on regular moderate watering, timely loosening of the soil and, of course, removing harmful weeds.

Attention! Never overdo it with watering the plant. Excess moisture can cause root rot, and the kobeya will quickly die.

During the first time after planting, kobei should be protected with two layers of non-woven insulation. If the tops of the plant freeze, it is better to cut them off, this will contribute to further branching of the kobeya. Kobeya begins to bloom from July to late autumn.

It is better to buy kobe seeds in a specialized store.

Collecting its seeds for further sowing is very problematic, since they do not ripen in our climate zone. Germination is only 30%, so it is better to purchase them in a specialized store. To save the plant until next year, in October its shoots should be cut off, the bush should be dug up and transplanted into a spacious box. Store the container in a cool and dark room, occasionally watering the plant. After the end of frost, kobeya is planted in open ground.

Fertilizer and feeding of kobei

Young plants should be fed with nitrogen-containing fertilizers every week. You can start fertilizing from the first days of the crop’s life. With the appearance of buds, the plant will require phosphorus and potash fertilizers. Kobeya can also be fertilized with humate, and mineral supplements alternate with organic ones, for example, with mullein solution.

For active growth, koba needs both minerals and organic fertilizers

Reproduction of Kobei

Kobe seeds are sown from February to March, after soaking them in a special growth stimulator. Each seed is recommended to be sown in separate glass. They are sprinkled with a thin layer of soil on top. The first shoots appear after 2-3 weeks. You can see this process in the next photo.

Kobe sprouts

Advice. To get the first shoots as early as possible, simply germinate the seeds before sprouting.

Around April, the first leaves will begin to appear. Then the seedlings should be watered well, carefully removed and planted in separate containers. This will ensure normal rhizome development for the plant.

Before planting in open ground, seedlings need some hardening. For example, they can be taken outside periodically, gradually increasing the time. In addition, propagation can be carried out by cuttings, first planting them in wet sand. Strengthened seedlings are transplanted into open ground with the arrival of warmer weather.

Kobei seedlings prepared for planting in a permanent place

Dangerous pests and diseases

The danger for kobei is mites and aphids. To combat them, use a solution of potassium green soap or flea shampoo with Fitoverm. Bad drainage system may cause horse rot.

Kobea: combination with other plants

Kobeya, both perennial and annual, will become a bright and unique decoration of any site, especially in proper combination with other plants. Petunia, verbena,

The beauty of kobei has not left modern people unnoticed. landscape design. If you place it with south side at home, near the gazebo, then, with the help of special trellises, you can recreate a real green scene. Planted near a hedge, kobeya will quickly entwine it and create a beautiful, unique wall or arch. It will look good planted in pots. With such a vine you can quite effectively divide the yard into conventional zones, decorate flower beds and enliven the exterior. You can see the excellent use of kobei in the illustrative photos.

Growing kobei: video

Decoration of gardens and personal plots often associated with breeding climbing plants. One of them is the kobei liana flower. Extraordinary beauty and a fairly long flowering period make it popular and arouse interest for the study of vegetative properties.

Often popular in Russia are of overseas origin. Therefore, many plants are either unable to get used to our climate at all, or adapt over many years (as a result of which its characteristics and agricultural practices change).

Garden kobeya was no exception to the rule. It is used for vertical gardening, has the appearance of a vine, and is heat- and light-loving. With proper care, it will reward you with luxurious thickets.

Origin

In this case, the plant came to the Eurasian continent from South America. Particularly common in Peru and Mexico. There, in the hot and humid tropical climate, kobeya can be described as follows:

• it is a perennial flower;
• under natural conditions it reproduces by self-sowing through falling seeds;
• has more than 10 species;
• adult plants reach a height of 5-8 m;
• the diameter of the flower bell is up to 10-11 cm;
• clings tightly to the support with the help of antennae.

In Russian conditions

In Russia we have kobeya:

• not able to develop by self-sowing;
• is an annual plant;
• propagated by seeds;
• grows up to 3-5 m high;
• has a flower bell diameter of up to 6-8 cm.

IMPORTANT. Planting material has to be purchased anew every year, because in the climatic conditions of our continent the seeds do not have time to ripen.

Why is it attractive?

Kobeya is valued for the fact that she:

• creates the illusion of a jungle;
• allows you to hide unsightly elements under the thickets - old cracked walls, unsightly design defects, etc.;
• provides aesthetic pleasure from the process of growing and caring for the plant;
• leaves are pinnate;
• abundant flowering;
• pleases the eye with purple and greenish-white bell-shaped flowers;
• the foliage is quite dense, with horizontal-vertical branching (it is possible to create the illusion of a green carpet);
• grows quickly;
• flowering lasts until the first frost.

Soil requirements

Due to the fact that kobeya was “born” in southern latitudes, it requires soils with the following characteristics:

• consistently moderately humid;
• soft;
• loose.

Natural tropical soils are just like that. Russian gardeners have to focus on:

• systematic loosening;
• humidity tracking and hydration;
• soil nutrition.

IMPORTANT. Use quality fertilizers from specialized stores. There, this product is targeted in a targeted manner - consult a competent seller.

Seedling

It will not be difficult for experienced gardeners to create a home jungle of kobeya. Beginners will have to spend a little more time studying agricultural technology, but achieving a positive result at low cost is also possible.

Seed preparation

As soon as you bought seeds in the store, immediately keep in mind: first you need to turn them into seedlings (planting seeds in open ground means dooming them to death). But even for seedlings, seeds require certain preparation:

• it is necessary for each seed to sprouted before planting in seedling containers;
• spread the seeds on a damp cloth (it will also work toilet paper or a paper napkin folded in several layers);

IMPORTANT. Make sure that each seed is kept at a distance from the others and does not touch its neighbors.

• moisten the cloth with the seeds and cover with plastic wrap;
• place it where it is not cold and there is good access to light;
• after 10-14 days the seeds should sprout;
• if you see mold appearing in places, carefully rinse the seeds and fabric (or change the paper);
• It’s time to plant those seeds that have successfully sprouted into the ground for growing seedlings.

Seed placement

Now the prepared seeds need to be turned into seedlings that can adapt to open ground:

• to grow seedlings, sowing should begin in late February - early March;
• use boxes no more than 15-18 cm high;

IMPORTANT. Seeds without preliminary preparation soak for several hours in a solution of a growth stimulator (check with specialized stores- what substance and how to dilute).

• seeds require planting to a depth of 1.5 cm;
• place them in the ground with the flat side down;

• the temperature of the room where the box with seedlings is located should be 19-20 degrees;
• Fill 5-7 cm boxes with soil from a specialized store (intended for flowers or for mixing with garden soil);

IMPORTANT. If everything is done correctly, shoots will appear in 14-20 days. Please note that seed germination is approximately 30% - this is not a matter of the reliability of the supplier, but of the specifics of the plant itself.

Growing seedlings

Once the seeds are in the ground, mark the planting date on a notepad. This will help you keep track of the dynamics. Use the experience gained next year, because you will like the kobeya so much that you will probably want to leave it in your garden forever.

Regular actions:

• until the seeds have sprouted, check the soil in the box - it should be moderately moist (but in no case swampy and sticky);
• Light drying on the surface is acceptable (however, the soil must not dry out inside);
• seeds in the ground do not require light - the main thing is warmth and moisture.

Cupping

An important stage is cropping of plants. When transplanted into separate containers, further strengthening and development are ensured. This stage determines how well the kobei will subsequently tolerate being placed in open ground.

What to do:

• with the appearance of the first shoots, track the moment when the first leaf appears, or even better - two;

• When the first leaves appear, crop the plants 1 at a time. in separate pots;
• Of great importance is such a factor as the size of the containers. Boxes or pots must be voluminous - otherwise the root system will not be able to fully develop;

IMPORTANT. The seedlings must be planted in the ground along with the root ball. Make sure there is enough soil in the seedling pots or boxes.

• focus on a capacity of 3-4 liters;
• For support, place an independent peg in each pot in advance. Within a few days after docking, the kobeya will begin to look for something to cling to - such is its curly nature;

• from this moment on, it is no longer so critical to maintain high temperatures - the plant feels good even at 14-15 degrees Celsius. The main thing is to beware of frost, so that the kobeya does not get caught by the frost on the loggia or glassed balcony;

IMPORTANT. On warm sunny days, it is useful to take the seedlings outside so that they begin to get used to their natural environment.

Video - Sowing and diving kobei

Transplantation into the ground

Basic rules:

• Seedlings are planted in open ground in late May - early June;
• it happens that the year is especially hot, all processes accelerate - then transplantation is possible in mid-May (the same applies to the warmest regions of the country);
• start planting only after the danger of frost has completely passed.

Distance

Liana plants require optimal distance between neighboring plants. It is necessary that there is no crowding, and also that the growing antennae can reach each other.

IMPORTANT. With a smaller distance, it will be too crowded, and with a larger distance, it will be much more difficult for the plant to cling to each other with its tendrils, and the “green carpet” effect will be weakened in many ways.

Soil and light

Climbing kobeya claims to have prepared soil and lack of shade:

• strictly follow the lighting requirements - kobeya grows well in richly lit places. Moderate darkening is acceptable, but not recommended. Complete darkening is strictly not recommended (the plant will wither);
• remember that the soil must be fertile. To make your task easier, place fenced planting rows or containers with fertile soil for annual planting. Then all you have to do is dig it up in the spring from year to year.

Planting plants in the ground

• mark the holes (the distance between plants should be from 60 to 80 cm);
• dig the ground to a depth based on how much the root system has grown (make a vertical and horizontal reserve of 5-7 cm, because the roots will continue to grow in open ground);
• spill the holes with water, wait until the water is absorbed into the ground;
• do not forget that the holes must have fertile, loose soil;

IMPORTANT. To help the plant “slip out” easily along with the root ball, water it in advance while it is in the planting container.

• place each plant in a separate hole;
• Gently sprinkle soil on top;
• pour water (not ice cold, but pre-settled at room temperature).

Care

Once the plants are in the ground, they require further care. And it, in turn, consists of four stages:

• watering;
• weeding;
• fertilizer;
• protection from pests.

Watering

The climbing kobei has an amazing genetic memory. The plant still requires the same conditions in which its distant South American tropical ancestors grew. And even now in the tropics the situation has not changed, and the Eurasian “relative” still requires sufficient humidity.

• Water the kobeya as often as possible;
• pour not into the holes, but onto the entire plantation from a hose or watering can (in this way you will not only provide water root system, but also every cell of the plant - it will be easier for him to breathe).

IMPORTANT. Flooding the roots is a dangerous extreme. The soil should be moist, but not swampy. Otherwise, there is a risk of root rot.

Fertilizer

Throughout the growth and development of the kobei, it needs the following elements:

• phosphorus;
• potassium;
• nitrogen.

However, there are subtleties of feeding:

• nitrogen is extremely necessary in “infancy”;
• when forming buds, phosphorus and potassium are needed;

IMPORTANT. Long-term abuse of nitrogen will lead to the fact that foliage will dominate in an adult plant, and there will be very few flowers.

• special mineral mixtures buy in flower and garden stores (be sure to specify why exactly and what composition);
• start feeding the plant literally from the first days of life;
• Fertilization frequency - weekly. This will make the growth of the kobei stable and uniform.

Pest protection

What dangers await the climbing kobe during the formation of buds, during the flowering period and further growth:

• pests - spider mites and aphids;

Methods of struggle and correction:

• remove infected leaves immediately and burn;

• treat the plant with a “chatter” of laundry soap and water;
• For prevention, use special solutions (you can buy them in gardening stores).

Annual or perennial

In Russian conditions it is very difficult to grow kobeya as a perennial. Only the most desperate gardening fans succeed in this. It is much easier to buy new seeds every year. But if you still want to go further, use simple recipe saving an existing plant for next summer:

• in mid-October, carefully trim the kobei stems with a sharp garden knife;
• Dig up the vine with roots;

• place in a spacious container along with soil on the roots;
• place the container in the cellar (without frosty air, but with moderate humidity);
• in this way, the climbing kobe can safely overwinter;
• Around mid-March, take out the container and start watering the plant indoors;
• With the beginning of warm days, plant it back into the soil.

Remember that growing flowers requires attention and responsibility. As for the climbing kobe, we can say that it is rewarding work - preparing seedlings, planting them in the ground and taking care of the plant. In return, you receive an original landscape design, a wonderful way to decorate architectural elements and satisfaction from the work performed.

Kobeya is a perennial vine, which is presented in the form of a subshrub. It belongs to the Sinyukhov family and is grown in cultivation mainly as annual plant. In the article we will talk about all the features of this plant, we will find out what conditions a gardener should create for the normal growth and development of climbing kobei.

General information

The name “kobeya” comes from a Spaniard who was a Jesuit monk. His name was Barnabas Cobo, and he spent many years in Peru and Mexico. If you want to find kobei in natural conditions, then you will have to go to the tropics and subtropics of the American continent. This plant came into cultivation back in 1787. In those days, as now, it was used for the purpose of vertical gardening, beautiful hedges were created.

Description of Kobei

Kobeya differs from other plants of its family in its incredibly fast growth rate. The plant has a fairly powerful branched root system, on which there are a large number of thin fibrous roots. The stems of the shrub are quite long and can reach six meters. There are some species whose stems exceed even this figure.

Kobeya climbing has complex pinnate alternate leaves, which consist of three lobes. Already at the end of the shoot, the leaves take the form of branched tendrils. It is these tendrils that help the plant to cling to the support in order to raise the stems to a height. Kobeya blooms with large, bell-shaped flowers. Their diameter can reach eight centimeters. Beautiful flowers located on pedicels. They can be in a group or alone. Kobeya climbing also has fruits, which are presented in the form of a leathery capsule, which is completely filled with oval-shaped seeds. Pedicels appear from the leaf axils. A flower that has not yet bloomed has a green-yellow tint, and when it blooms, it acquires a white or purple hue.

Kobeya climbing: growing from seeds

One of the most common and effective ways Kobei propagation is by seed. But some difficulties may arise here. Growing kobeya from seeds can be hampered by the seeds themselves, or more precisely, by their thick shell with which they are covered. It greatly complicates the germination process. Therefore, experienced gardeners recommend dissolving this crust, turning it into mucus, and then manually removing it. The dissolution process is not too complicated. It is necessary to place the seeds on the bottom of the vessel so that they do not touch each other. Next, you need to fill them with water and cover the container with a lid. This is necessary to prevent moisture from evaporating. Gradually, the crust will begin to become limp, and the gardener’s task at this time is to remove the layer that can already be processed and place the seeds back into the water. This procedure is repeated until all the peel is removed. This usually takes several days. This is preparatory stage for planting seeds for germination.

Planting seeds

When the preparatory stage has been successfully completed, you can begin planting planting material to obtain seedlings. Typically, climbing kobe seeds are planted in late February or early March. For each seed you need to prepare a separate glass. This is necessary in order not to carry out the first picking, since this process often turns out to be quite traumatic for the plant. There is no need to prepare any special soil for planting. You just need to purchase a universal substrate in a specialized store. The seeds are laid directly on the surface of the substrate, and sprinkled with a one and a half centimeter layer of the same substrate on top. If you managed to completely peel the kobe seeds from their thick skin, then in two weeks you can expect the first shoots. If you fail to do this, you will have to be patient.

Seedlings of climbing kobei

When the seedlings have already grown well (two or more true leaves appear on them), you can begin to transplant them into larger containers. To do this, you need to prepare three-liter containers and transplant the seedlings there directly with the earthen ball in which they grow. This is necessary so that the plant quickly takes root, it develops a powerful root system, and the shoots become stronger. For such a kobei, it is already necessary to install a ladder made of plastic or wood, to which the young plant will cling.

Gardeners consider this stage to be special, since it is during this period that the seedlings need to be hardened off. Containers with seedlings are placed on the loggia or balcony. It is advisable that these rooms be insulated or at least glazed, since the air temperature outside is not yet high enough. On the glazed balcony, the seedlings will get used to the cool air, awaiting planting in a permanent place. Typically, seedlings are not left in this position for more than three weeks. After this period, you can safely proceed to planting the climbing kobei in open ground.

Disembarkation time

Kobei flowers can be planted in open ground as early as mid-May, if you are sure that night frosts have left your garden. It is important that the night temperature does not fall below five degrees. However, the growth process of seedlings should also be monitored. Since too large individuals will be difficult to transplant into the ground, and they also take much longer to be accepted in a new place.

Landing technology

To properly care for and plant kobei in the open ground, you should use several rules. First of all, you should choose a place where the kobeya will grow. It will be good if it is a sunny area with fairly fertile soil. It’s okay if you place the plant in partial shade, since it also feels quite comfortable in such a place. More attention should be paid to wind and drafts, which should not exist in the place where you plan to plant creeping kobe seedlings.

The holes should be dug in advance. They must be one meter apart from each other. They are filled with a special mixture, which also needs to be prepared in advance. It contains: humus, peat, turf land. Kobei seedlings, together with a lump of earth, are placed directly on this mixture, then added dropwise and watered well. Do not delay the installation of supports. It is better to do this as soon as the seedlings are planted in open ground. Gardeners recommend using arches or fences for these purposes. This is necessary so that the kobei does not cling to the first supports that come across, which can be nearby bushes and trees.

If you have doubts about frost, it is better to cover young plants non-woven material at night to make sure the plants are safe.

Rules of care

Caring for and planting kobei in open ground includes several more rules that must be followed. It is worth paying attention to the features of watering. The soil around the kobe should be moistened regularly, and in especially dry periods it needs abundant watering. But you need to know when to stop so as not to overwater the plant, which can lead to rotting of the root system. This is especially true for those plants that grow in partial shade.

Top dressing

Kobeya needs frequent feeding. Fertilizers must be applied every week. They should include a large amount of nitrogen, and during the formation of buds they will also need phosphorus and potassium. The first fertilizers are applied already at the period when the kobeya has just begun its life journey. With the appearance of the first leaf, the plant needs humate. Next, you should alternately apply organic and mineral fertilizers. For the former, mullein infusion is excellent, and for the latter, you can choose Kemira. Such alternations are carried out until the climbing kobeya blooms.

Don’t forget to loosen the soil and remove weeds around the plant. It's also very important points on caring for kobeya (photos of flowers are presented in the article).

Reproduction

The seed method of propagation of kobei is not the only one. Cuttings or vegetative propagation methods are considered more reliable. Cuttings should be taken in the spring from those bushes that overwintered indoors. Shoots cut in spring can be rooted directly in wet sand, and already in the second half of May they can be safely transplanted into open ground. Gardeners have noticed the fact that kobeya, which was grown from cuttings rather than from seeds, blooms much earlier. But there is another side - the flowering of such a plant is less abundant and spectacular.

Diseases and pests

As for insects, kobei has only two main enemies: aphids and mites. Getting rid of these pests is not at all difficult. It is enough to spray the plant with a solution of potassium green soap with the addition of fitoverm. If such liquid soap is not found, then you can add pet flea shampoo instead.

Planting material

Flowering of kobei begins around the beginning of July and lasts until the onset of the first frost. In the regions of our country, this plant is grown as an annual, which means that with the onset of autumn it is removed from the garden.

It should be noted that collecting seeds from climbing kobei is quite difficult, since they simply do not have time to ripen. Therefore, it will be better if you purchase planting material from a specialized store and do not waste time collecting unripe seeds. Consider also the fact that even seeds from the most the best companies sprout in only 30% of cases. Self-collected seeds will not give even such a germination rate.

Preparing for winter

In order not to plant kobei seedlings every year, you can try to preserve the plant in winter conditions. This will require a little effort and time from the gardener. In October, the plant is pruned, then the bush is carefully dug up and transplanted into a large flowerpot or other convenient container. In this position, the kobeya should be in a room where the air temperature will not fall below twelve degrees. This could be a living space or a basement. You should monitor the condition of the soil and water it not too much every three to four days.

Towards the end of February, plants that were standing away from sunlight, you need to move it closer to it, and also slightly increase watering. An adult specimen, like seedlings, can be planted in open ground only when the gardener is absolutely sure that the frosts have completely passed.

Types and varieties

Nine species of kobei are known in nature, but only one of them is grown in culture, which was discussed in this article - the climbing kobei. Although this species is a perennial, in cultivation almost all gardeners grow it as an annual plant. Its homeland is Mexico. The shoots of this climbing kobei do not grow more than six meters in length, which cannot be said about other types of plants. Beautiful purple flowers appear around mid-July and emit a pleasant honey aroma that attracts many insects. In floriculture, white kobeya is also known, which is a subspecies of kobeya and differs from it only in the shade of the flowers. A photo of a climbing kobe can be seen below.

Conclusion

As you can see, growing kobeya on your garden plot not as difficult as it might seem. Growing seedlings from seeds is considered the most difficult stage, since you have to spend too much time on this process. Otherwise, this flower cannot be called whimsical and even a beginner can cope with it in the garden. Kobeya can be an excellent decoration for your garden, and you can also use it to make a beautiful hedge for your area.

Kobea is a perennial climbing tropical vine that grows quickly and is perfect for vertical gardening. It is grown only by seedlings due to the long growing season.

Features of seeds

It is almost impossible to obtain seeds at home: kobeya blooms until frost. Although this happens occasionally.

If the vine does have seeds, you need to collect them before the matinees and place them at home in a dry, ventilated place, then, as a rule, they manage to ripen.

But usually you have to buy seeds at the store. Often they do not germinate or less than half of them manage to germinate.

In order to provide yourself with planting material in the right quantity, buy several packages from different manufacturers. But still, germination is practically only 30 percent.

It should also be taken into account that the seeds have a short shelf life and it is advisable to plant with fresh seeds from last year.

In nature, there are only two types of color of kobei flowers: purple and wine-white.

Companies that produce seeds advise planting them at different times:

• wine-white in February,
• purple in March.

Motivating this by what they have different period growing season.

Making homemade cups for seedlings

To grow seedlings, you can make your own convenient cups.

They take food foil and make balls out of it as follows:

• wrap around the glass, leaving a long end,
• take out the glass
• collect all the foil from below into a knot and form a little bag,
• bend the bottom, leaving the desired size,
• The bags are carefully filled with substrate,
• place tightly next to each other in a large container, for example, a cake lid.

When replanting, it is enough to unroll the bag and remove the plant without disturbing the root system.

Planting seeds

Preparation

To plant, kobe seeds need to be prepared in a certain way:

• at first scarify, break the integrity of the shell, gently rubbing with something hard, for example, sandpaper;
• carefully wrap in a soft wet cloth so that they do not touch each other, and put in a plastic bag to create a greenhouse effect; It’s good if you have something like a Petri dish with a lid on hand: an ideal dish for planting;
• check status planting material will be needed every day;
• if appeared mucus, then her remove with a cloth, soaked in a pink weak solution of potassium permanganate, it needs to be practically torn off, but not immediately, but in several stages;
• mold is a sign that the temperature for germination is too low, and therefore it is necessary put the package in a warm place: on a battery, stove or under a lamp;
• you can’t miss the moment when sprouts appear- they are immediately planted in a jar of soil; if this is done late, the seed pod will remain on the sprout and will have to be removed with nail scissors; the plant can be easily damaged during this “operation”. On average, seeds germinate for about two weeks, but it happens that germination occurs unevenly from two to three weeks.

You can soak the seeds for two days in Epin and sow them unsprouted, having also previously scarified them; in this case, you will probably have to help the sprouts that have not been able to shed their shells using nail scissors.

Attention: kobeya sprouts for a very long time - up to 20 days or more.

The landing process itself

Kobeya is planted from mid to late February:

• the hatched seeds are placed flat side down on the prepared substrate;
• cover with 1.5 cm of soil;
• press the soil with your finger;
• The seeds of this plant are large, and therefore they are immediately placed in special cups, perhaps peat ones;
• watered;
• covered with film or glass and placed where it is warm, for example, on a window in direct sunlight;
• Ventilate and remove condensation every day.

Many gardeners grow seedlings in peat tablets, then place the grown plant directly with the tablet into a container filled one-third with substrate and cover it to the base of the shoot.

Attention: at the first stage, the kobeya grows very slowly!

Seedling care

• On at this stage moderate watering;
• can be watered with a growth stimulator;
• as soon as the first seedlings appear, they are shaded from the sun;
• When the plant produces one or two first true leaves, it must be replanted.

The liana is removed from the container, trying to prevent the earthen lump from crumbling, and placed in a larger container, 2-3 times larger than the previous one.

Then the plant will not have to be replanted again: the kobeya should develop and grow stronger in a spacious pot.

In a cramped container the vine turns yellow. When transshipping, you need to put a support: after all, this is a liana plant.

There is no need to fertilize at this stage, otherwise the plant will quickly grow and become tangled, making it difficult to transplant it into open ground.

The seedlings stretch upward quite quickly, and in order not to have to fight with a meter-long vine when transplanting, you need to pinch it at a height of just over 20 cm. This is also useful because in this way it is easy to achieve active tillering, and the vine will grow more luxuriant.

Planting in open ground

Photo: Planting kobeya in open ground

You can plant kobeya in the garden only when the night temperature is at least 4 degrees, usually no earlier than the end of May or beginning of June.

At the same time, they plan for the possibility of shelter in case of return frosts.

The fact is that young plants do not tolerate cold well, while adults can grow calmly even at -4 degrees. Therefore, in the fall, kobeya can easily tolerate minor frosts without consequences.

It would be a good idea to harden off the seedlings before planting., although for kobei this is difficult due to the overgrown stems. But still, the last two weeks before sending it to its permanent place in the garden, you can take it to closed veranda or loggia.

Place in a greenhouse or greenhouse directly in the containers in which it is planted. If the temperature drops below zero at night, the plants are covered on top with covering material or film.

Algorithm for planting in open ground

Let us analyze in detail the algorithm for planting kobei in open ground:

• dig a hole at least 40 cm deep and fill it with humus, peat and turf soil in equal proportions;
• remove the plant from the container and put in a hole;
• carefully water warm water ;
• cover the plant, having previously installed a small support, to which the cords for the vine will subsequently be attached;
• Maintain a distance between plants of at least 80-100 cm.

Often the seedlings do not all sprout together, and not all grow at the same speed. Weak plants still need to be planted in the garden, but such plants will have to be given more attention: they need to be fed with organic fertilizers.

Even when the temperature drops by several degrees, they need to be covered at night; for this you can use cut plastic bottles.

Lianas are grown in sunny places, protected from the wind. Plants transplanted into open ground undergo an adaptation period of about two weeks, and only after that they begin to grow.

Kobeya does not like being next to tall plants or buildings. If shadow falls on it, it will bloom later.

Attention: canes caught by return frosts can be trimmed, this will make the plant even thicker.

Method 2

There is also a way to plant seedlings early enough.

Seedlings are planted early, in early May. Sometimes this has to be done because the vines have become very overgrown and covered with abundant foliage, when the plant can no longer be kept at home in containers.

After planting, the branches are carefully laid on the ground and covered with film, holding it in the corners from the wind.

The film is opened for a while every day to allow air access and ventilation.

On warm days, the shelter is removed, the vine is lifted and secured temporarily. You can use a special grill. They are now sold in specialized stores in a large assortment.

Secure the lashes to a small decorative lattice and place it together with the plant under the film. Then on warm days it is enough to lift the grille and place it against the wall.

Attention: when planted early in the ground under cover, kobeya blooms two weeks earlier.

Further care

Photo: Caring for flowers in your own area

After planting the vine in the garden, its care is as follows:

• Watering is very moderate at normal temperature.
• Feed her twice a month, alternate mineral and organic fertilizers, then the vine will quickly gain a large amount of vegetative mass.
• They especially help with this nitrogen fertilizers.
• Fertilizer application should be completed by the end of June., otherwise leaf growth will be to the detriment of flowering.
• The most difficult thing in caring for is to distribute the lashes in the right direction, help them cling to supports and cut out yellowed leaves so that the kobeya does not lose its decorative appearance, at the same time observing the plant.
• The soil around the lashes should always be moist and loose. To do this, mulching is carried out using sawdust, peat, and humus.
• During the summer heat, kobeya requires abundant watering and stops growing,
• Weeding must be done carefully, Liana doesn't like to be disturbed

Sowing seeds before winter

Often the appearance of kobei buds is delayed, and it blooms in full glory only by mid-August. But you can get earlier flowering.

To do this, kobe seeds are sown in July directly in open ground, following all the rules for spring planting. At the end of August, the plants are transplanted into containers and sent to a cool room. This could be a glazed veranda or an insulated loggia, where the temperature does not drop below zero.

The optimal temperature for keeping will be 8-10 degrees c, if it decreases, the plants need to be covered additionally.

Water very sparingly, only when the coma is completely dry. If the lashes grow strongly, they can be cut off radically.

By the way, vines can even bloom, especially if they have not been pruned. Such bushes, as a rule, are already quite powerful, and are planted in the garden at the end of May.

Attention: kobeya cannot be grown in containers and flowerpots. She will not develop and will look frail!

With proper care grown from kobeya seeds can reach a length of 11 meters and delight lush flowering until autumn.

Plant diseases

Kobeya can be affected by many diseases, including at the seedling stage.

The most common disease is aphid damage. If this happens on the windowsill, then you can eliminate aphid colonies by washing the plant with soap suds (it is better to use laundry or tar soap for this purpose).

If an adult plant is partially affected, then you can also try to wash the affected area with foam, and spray the rest of the plant with the remaining solution for preventive purposes. If this does not help, then you will have to resort to special drugs.

In addition, the plant attacks and spider mite.

Often the buds of Kobei do not open for a long time, so you need to carefully monitor the plant, and if you notice that the bud does not open, but is swollen, you need to carefully cut it a little with scissors.

As a conclusion

Just like that, in just a couple of minutes, you learned how to properly grow kobeya from seeds.

Now watch the useful video we found for you!

And another video:

Gardeners decorate gazebos, terraces, fences, verandas with climbing plants and use them to decorate vertical objects. Which of them will not pose exceptional difficulties in maintenance and will at the same time improve the area? Good decision For a florist, growing kobeya from seeds at home will be a good idea. The most dull estate, colored by the shoots of this beautifully flowering vine, will take on an aesthetic, well-groomed appearance.

Cobaea belongs to the clinging or climbing shrubby plants of the blueweed family (Polemoniáceae). It comes from Mexico and has been known in Europe since 1787. The vine owes its name to the Jesuit monk Barnabas Cobo.

A naturalist who lived in Peru liked its flowers, which were similar in shape to bells. In memory of the Cantenbury bells, the Jesuit planted a vine on his property, and since then the wild perennial has become a garden plant. Other names for kobei are “monastery bells”, “Mexican ivy”.

Kobeya is distinguished by its unusual flowering. When blooming, its bell-shaped flowers have a white-greenish tint. Afterwards they acquire a purple and white color. The diameter of the flowers reaches 8 cm, the pedicels are long. They are located in the axils of the leaves, one at a time or in groups of 2–3 flowers.

The long stamens that make up the lush bunch are amazing. With five wavy threads, twisting at the ends covered with pollen, they curiously peek out from their bell.

The life of a blooming flower is quite short. But each faded one is replaced by a new bud. And the vine with the simultaneous presence of white, soft lilac, dark purple flowers on it will show off all over summer period until frost in the fall.

Before the flowering period, kobeya is also not devoid of decorativeness. It attracts butterflies with its feathery leaves, folded with wings, with cherry veins running across the dark green background. The shoots at the end are modified: with branched cherry-brown tendrils the plant is strengthened to any support.

Having a powerful, branched root system with many thin fibrous roots, kobeya is characterized by rapid growth. During the season, from a small shoot the plant turns into a multi-meter vine, up to 6 m long.

As the kobea fades, elongated fruits appear, similar to a plum or cucumber. The leathery seed pods contain large, flat-rounded seeds (15 seeds per 1g).

Uses of kobei

The decorative nature of the vine is its indisputable advantage. The plant is valued for wide range its uses:

1. A climbing beauty will cover a house with a green wall or disguise an unsightly building.
2. Kobeya will be an excellent element of a hedge.
3. The green arch made of graceful vines is a unique decorative element of the estate.
4. Blooming kobeya is planted in a flowerbed with petunias, verbena, and lobelia.
5. Covered with the fragrant vines of the plant, the gazebo will turn into a fabulous resting place.

Kobeya will also be a charming decoration for a balcony or loggia. In order for the vines to look like a beautiful curtain, the plant needs to be protected from wind, cold and direct sunlight.

Growing kobei in Siberia, Ukraine, the Urals

Distinguished by its great love for warmth and sun, kobeya grows well in the southwestern Russian lands, in Ukraine. It is grown quite successfully in the central and northwestern regions of Russia, in the Urals (Middle and Southern), and in Siberia (in the climate of temperate latitudes).

In regions with cold climates, heat-loving vines often do not have time to produce ripened seeds. That's why exotic plant usually grown as an annual.

Reproduction is possible by cuttings or planting seeds in open ground. But, characterized by a long vegetative period, kobeya grows better and blooms faster when grown from seeds at home.

Kobeya photo

Kobeya growing from seeds at home

How and when to sow seeds

Seeding kobea seeds seedlings begin in February, towards the middle of the month. In warm climates, it is better to plant them in early to mid-March to prevent the seedlings from stretching out.

Liana seeds are characterized by their toughness. They are pre-soaked and treated with “Fitosporin” to prevent diseases. A small container (you can use a saucer) is covered with a cloth soaked in potassium permanganate or a growth stimulant (“NV-1”, “Epin”).

Then the planting material is spread out on a cloth at a distance and covered with polyethylene. Afterwards, the “greenhouse” is placed in a warm place (at least 20 degrees), making sure that mold does not appear on the seeds. If there is sticky mucus, they are washed in running water, changing the fabric.

Large seeds will take a week to hatch, small seeds will take a long time. With the appearance of white roots, the seeds are laid out edgewise in a container to a depth of 1.5 cm. The soil for seedlings should be light and loose.

Note! You can plant each seed in a separate peat pot (tablet), pre-moistened. This will protect the sprouts from possible damage when picking.

For germination, containers with planting material are kept in a warm place. To maintain the humidity level, cover with film.

Features of caring for seedlings

The first sprouts are expected 2-3 weeks after sowing the seeds. The containers with them are placed in a very sunny place. The air temperature must be at least 16 degrees.

Picking in separate containers is carried out to form two true leaves. Peat tablet with the sprouted seed placed in a pot large sizes, filling the voids with universal primer.

It is advisable to use large three-liter pots: the space promotes the development of a powerful root system and the growth of strong vines.

We must remember: in the future, the kobei sprouts will need support. In order not to damage the roots, it is better to install it in advance (metal or plastic ladder).

Watering the seedlings is carried out systematically - as soon as the soil begins to dry out. Excessive humidity harmful, because provokes putrefactive diseases of the roots. Periodically, seedlings should be sprayed with warm water to prevent the appearance of spider mites.

Containers with sprouts should be placed at a distance so that the vines do not intertwine: this will make it difficult to transplant them to the site. To stimulate the development of side shoots, pinching is done on excessively long vines.

For shoot growth, seedlings are fertilized with Baikal humate. Three weeks before planting the seedlings on the plot, they begin to harden them, taking them to a sunny place at colder temperatures (on a glazed balcony).

Planting kobei seedlings in open ground

If you keep the seedlings in a pot, they will begin to weave heavily, which will make it difficult to plant in open soil. However, you should make sure that the frost has already passed: a temperature of less than 5 degrees Celsius can destroy the kobeya.

It is preferable to plant seedlings in a permanent place on the site in early June. In the southern regions, it is permissible to plant seedlings in mid-May, then the kobeya will bloom earlier.

When determining a place to plant kobei, they are guided by the following selection conditions:

• the plant needs abundant sunlight;
• kobeya prefers fertile, light, permeable soils;
• purposes of use: decorating arches, facades, gazebos, etc.

It should also be noted that plants are sensitive to drafts, especially cold northeast winds.

Kobeya develops well on loamy and sandy soils. The pigmentation of the flower depends on the acidity of the soil: an increased level is revealed by reddish tints of the flower cups. Calcareous soils appear in the blue tones of kobea flowers.

Before planting, prepare holes for seedlings, placing them 50–70 cm from each other. To ensure soil fertility, granular superphosphate or a special mineral fertilizer is added to each hole. Soil mixture made up of peat, humus, coarse sand, and turf soil.

The ground in which the seedling is located is first watered well, then the seedling with a lump of “native” soil takes root in the open ground. The planted shoots are watered again, then mulched using dry grass, hay, and sawdust.

Important: for the first time, the young vine must be covered with a double layer of film or lutrasil. This will help the plant take root and protect it from freezing.

Young shoots should also be covered in case of prolonged rains or cold weather. If the tops of the plant are still frozen, it is recommended to pinch it so that new shoots will grow. With the established warm weather, the film is removed from the vine.

Kobei care

Kobei formation

The formation of the plant begins after planting the seedlings. Young shoots are tied to support nets or pegs. Periodically, the growing parts of the vine need to be tied up so that the kobeya does not entangle neighboring plants.

In order to obtain more branched shoots, the vine is pinched. To maintain a well-groomed appearance, dried flowers are removed in a timely manner.

Watering kobei

Kobeya is distinguished by its growth rate, so it needs regular watering and nutrients. Particular care must be taken to monitor soil moisture in dry conditions. summer days. Timely watering will protect the plant from overheating of the roots and loss of flowers.

You need to pay attention to ensure that when watering, water does not stagnate at the roots: when there is excess moisture, the root system is attacked by fungal bacteria. Mulching is also recommended tree trunk circles any organic material.

Feeding Kobei

During vegetative development, to increase green mass, creeping annuals are fed for the first time (late May - mid-June) with nitrogen-containing fertilizers. Next, alternating fertilizing is carried out using organic (“Ideal”, “Zaslona”, “Rainbow”) and mineral fertilizers (“Kemira”) with phosphorus and potassium. During the development of vine shoots, fertilizing is done four times.

It is necessary to take into account: before flowering, applying nitrogen fertilizer is not recommended, since the plant does not bloom, but turns green.

Weeding, loosening the soil

Like everyone else garden plants, which requires weeding to prevent the transfer of infections from weeds and the proliferation of pests. Loosening the soil at the roots promotes air access to them and allows excess moisture to evaporate.

Preparing kobei for winter

Before the onset of autumn frosts, kobeya is removed. You can try to save it as a perennial. To do this, the lashes are cut off, and the plant itself is dug up with its roots. Next, they are placed in containers and stored in cool places (cellar, basement). In the spring, successfully overwintered kobeya is taken out into the sun, increasing watering. It should be planted in open ground by the end of May.

Kobei diseases and pests

A tropical plant, kobeya is susceptible to frequent diseases. Excess moisture and lack of drainage is manifested by root rot. Black spots appear on leaves and flowers. Affected parts of the plant should be removed immediately. The land is treated with insecticidal preparations (Ridomil Gold MC, Hom).

The most dangerous pests for plants are aphids and spider mites. Their destruction is carried out by processing insecticides(“Decisom”, Actellik”, “Inta-Virom”). Spraying with liquid potassium green soap will help; use pet flea shampoo.

Pests are removed using biological means. Plants affected by aphids are sprayed with pine infusion: 2 liters of water for 500g needles, leave for a week. Use mustard powder: 10 grams per liter of water, leave for 2 days. The solution is made up of a 9 liter glass of infusion. Infusions of celandine, marigold, dope, tomato tops, garlic, and tobacco are effective. Spider mite can be removed by treating with infusions of henbane, dandelion, chamomile, and tobacco.

Preventative regular inspection of shoots will prevent widespread damage. Yellowing leaves, slow growth of shoots, poor flowering, the appearance of spots unusual for a vine, and cobweb formations are signs of kobei disease.

Types of kobei

There are 9 known plant species common in natural conditions through tropical and subtropical forests of America. In gardening, climbing kobeya (Cobaea scandens) or tenacious is cultivated.

Plant varieties differ in the white (“Wedding Bells”), wine-white, violet, lilac, burgundy, and lilac color of the flowers.

Kobeya – very responsive to good care plant. She will thank her caring owner with the luxurious splendor of her vines and the exotic beauty of her flowers.