DIY sewer pipe installation. Laying sewer pipes with your own hands Installing a sewer pipe

The sewerage system in a private house is equipped, first of all, in order to drain wastewater outside wooden house. In accordance with this fact, its design and implementation should be carried out in such a way that as a result there are no unpleasant odors that can enter the premises and no traffic jams.
Contents of the article

If we consider in detail the process of constructing a sewerage system, it becomes clear that installation sewer pipes with your own hands is a mandatory step.

If the work is done efficiently, the sewer system will work perfectly for a very long time. Today, in most cases, plastic is used in the construction of sewage systems. Thanks to it, you can forget about corrosion and rust forever. But this does not mean a complete absence of problems: unfortunately, from time to time traffic jams may form in the system. If you make mistakes when installing pipes, you expose the sewer system to the risk of unwanted traffic jams and stench. Also, because of this, the sewer system can make noise and take excess water from the siphons. Since we have a wooden house made of timber or rounded logs, it will be easier for us to lay pipes in the log house - we just need to make suitable cuts in the walls of the log house.

The movement of waste liquids is carried out by gravity. Accordingly, so that this method worked, you need to maintain a certain slope from the device to the pipe when laying it, and after that to the outside tank (septic tank) or collector located on the street.

As a percentage, the slope can be described in a value from two to fifteen units. This fact means that the difference between the end of the pipe located at the beginning and, accordingly, the end should be from two to fifteen centimeters. It is necessary to carefully consider the width of each type of pipe so that waste liquids, which also contain solids, proceeded calmly. When choosing the most suitable diameter for pipes, they look, first of all, at their type and the number of sanitary devices that are connected to the system.

  • - washbasin or bidet – 32-40
  • - sink or bathroom - at least 50
  • - the case when a riser is needed or a certain number of sanitary devices are connected - 70-85
  • - riser, drain pipe or toilet - minimum 100

If you somehow change the direction of laying pipes when installing a sewer system, then you should choose an angle greater than right for this. Pipes that help provide communication with the risers of plumbing fixtures are connected at an angle of less than forty-five degrees. If you are installing a sewer system that is located outside or in a room with no heating, then it is very advisable for you to protect the pipes from cold and temperature surges.

The optimal temperature for sewer pipes ranges from five to forty-five degrees Celsius. In such situations, an insulating coating such as mineral wool can help.

Sewer system ventilation laying

The ventilation pipe, at the end of which there is a deflector, serves as an element of the sewerage system that cannot be thrown away. This pipe provides a connection between the part of the system located inside and the external atmosphere. Its installation is done in order to eliminate the possibility of pressure surges or unwanted drainage leaks.

As can be seen in its name, it provides ventilation for the sewer system. Thus, as a result, there is no vacuum and loss of excess water beyond the siphons, which are located higher. Even drains that block the entire cross-section of sewer pipes do not become a problem. Ventilation must be present in every sewer riser. There are technical situations in which it is not possible to install them above the roof. In this case, a wide common ventilation pipe comes to the rescue, with which the connection is made.

There is one more backup option. In some cases ventilation pipe laid on a riser, which is located as far away as possible. At the same time, the ends of the remaining risers are equipped with aeration valves. Last the method will work for working with several risers. Unfortunately, it won’t be possible to do more than five. Aeration valves are not absolutely universal and cannot completely replace ventilation pipes, since air flows through them exclusively in one direction, and more specifically, into the sewer system. As a result, excess gas accumulates, which must be provided with outlet.

The need for a strong connection

Devices that can be classified as sanitary-technical (washbasins, showers, bathtubs) can be provided with a general connection to the sewer riser. The toilet is connected separately, and the level of connection with the riser must be lower than other connections.

It may be useful in this case valuable advice, which concerns quick-release couplings for pipes. If you decide to install a sewer system, they may be best suited, as they make it possible to replace an element that has been damaged with very little effort.

The connection of devices with the riser has the greatest extent:

  • - with toilet - 1 meter
  • - everything else - 3 meters
If the maximum length goes beyond what is indicated above, it is imperative to install an additional ventilation pipe, which can be installed above the roof level or use an aeration valve. There is another way, which is to connect to a pipe that is larger.

This situation is colorfully described in special regulatory documents. If you do not pay attention to the described rules, the water in the siphon of the device may begin to drain. It is worth thinking about this when you hear the sound of gurgling. The siphon will empty and become a window for unpleasant odors oozing from the sewer.

Materials used for sewer installation

Today, plastic pipes have become incredibly popular in everyday life. The reason for this popularity lies in the protection against corrosion and low weight. Installation of pipes made of cast iron and metal is also carried out, but recently much less frequently.


Connections between the sewer system and plumbing fixtures

Necessary process wastewater outlet by gravity may be difficult due to plumbing fixtures located in low-level rooms. In this case, the location features do not provide conditions for creating the required slope of the pipes. But there is also a way out of this situation.

Today it is possible to purchase equipment that pumps wastewater. He is provided with a connection to the toilet, while being equipped with a device that shreds feces and paper. You can install such equipment on other plumbing fixtures, such as washbasins or bathtubs.

The device operates automatically. The sewerage system can be divided into the one that is located inside the house and the remaining one, which runs on the territory of the site. Thus, between the two sections it is possible to identify the boundary on which the main revision is installed. If we consider sewer device, typical for most houses, then we can highlight some of its elements. Next we will look at the interior. So, it contains:

  • - deflectors that are installed at the end of the ventilation pipe
  • - a ladder that was installed in the floor
  • - a sewer riser with which sewer pipes are connected, which drain waste water from plumbing fixtures
  • - drainage pipes, which are also called sewer horizontals, but are laid, contrary to this, with a slight slope
  • - socket-type connections, which are the most popular option for connecting pipes and sewer couplings
  • - sewer line, which are pipes that connect washbasins, toilets, bathtubs with a drainage pipe

Video: Installation of sewer pipes


External sewerage installation process

So, what actions should be performed in order to ensure installation external sewerage? To lay its pipes, a special trench is dug, which must have a depth that allows the necessary slopes to be realized for draining the runoff water without unnecessary obstacles.

The latter subsequently goes into the central sewer system or into a septic tank. By the way, the depth of the trenches should also be dug taking into account the characteristics of the land and climate. Sewer pipes are laid inside the trenches in such a way that they fit tightly to the base and along their entire length. Next, you should check whether the installation of the pipe corresponds to the slope using a plumb line (the slope should be kept 2-4 cm for each meter of pipe).

Next, they are engaged in connecting and sealing sewer pipes. The sealing process must be preceded by cleaning and treatment with a special lubricant. There is also another method in which specialized punches are used, which make it possible to install sewer pipes, neglecting the need to create trenches.

When installing external sewerage, take into account the depth of soil freezing. At the exit from a private house, the pipes should be below the freezing level, if you have information on the depth of soil freezing, do not be lazy and insulate the sewer pipes - yes, there are extra costs, but in the end they will save you from unnecessary headaches.

Professional terms

Several special terms will be described below, knowledge of the meanings of which can greatly simplify the purchase and installation process of sewer system pipes.

A vacuum valve is a special valve whose task is to provide the sewer system with air during the vacuum processes that occur inside it. It also protects the system from unwanted odors.

BA is a component of the sewer riser, which is located in an area located above the supply line and connected to the outside air.

An outlet is a pipe connecting the sewer well, which is located at the end of its system, with the sewer network located outside the boundaries of the site. Such pipes are installed on final stages according to the sewerage device.

Sewer line - a pipe connecting plumbing fixtures to a riser or drain pipe.

Sewerage network is a system that is formed by sewerage devices, pipes and fittings owned by enterprises that provide water supply.

A sewer riser is a pipeline located in a vertical manner, which provides waste disposal for sewer sections located under water.

Discharge pipe - ensures disposal of runoff water from sewer risers outside the premises in question.

The sewer system performs a number of very important functions in cleaning the premises from odors and sewage. And if, when living in a city apartment, you usually don’t have to think about installing sewer pipes, then when building a private house or cottage, it is necessary to pay attention to the installation of a high-quality sewer system. Not everyone knows how sewer pipes are installed. It is necessary to take into account the fact that incorrectly performed sewer installation with your own hands may well cause traffic jams and the penetration of a characteristic unpleasant odor into the room. Not every owner decides to install a sewer system with their own hands. Many people trust this work only to professionals. But, adhering to technology, sewer pipes can be installed independently, saving on the services of third-party craftsmen.

Main features of the device

If you decide to install the sewer system yourself, first of all you need to understand the features of this system. The main mechanism of the sewer system is the natural flow of sewage in pipes.

Correct installation of sewer pipes requires a slight slope (2-15%) to the collector or reservoir.

The slope is determined individually in each specific case. Usually, special tables are used for this, which provide average values ​​used when connecting various plumbing fixtures using pipes of certain lengths and diameters. The smallest slope is suggested for the common drain of the shower, bathtub and sink, and the largest for the sink drain. In the first case, a pipe with a length of 170-230 cm and a diameter of 5 cm is used, in the second case - a length of up to 80 cm and a diameter of 4 cm.

Maximum and minimum slope sewerage depends on the specific case. The following table will help you determine the required slope depending on the diameter of the pipes used: Fig. 2.

Sewage slope diagram: 1 – shaped part; 2 – common house riser.

An integral part of any sewer system is ventilation. Ventilation system serves as an excellent regulator of pressure changes in the sewer system during the flow of wastewater.

To install a sewer system with your own hands, pipes from different materials can be used. Currently, plastic pipes are most often installed. Various types plastics (polyvinyl chloride, polypropylene, polyethylene) differ from cast iron and metal products the fact that they do not burst, do not corrode and are quite lightweight. There is no need to lubricate such pipes, and their installation is much easier and faster.

Connection diagram of the horizontal section internal sewerage with vertical: 1 – adapter; 2 – pipe.

If we consider the features of connecting plumbing fixtures to the sewer system, then here too there are some important nuances. After all, various plumbing fixtures can be installed on ground floor, in the basement and in other rooms. As a rule, it is not possible to make the necessary slope in such places. To solve this problem, pumping equipment is installed. In addition, as a rule, a special chopper is included toilet paper and feces. This equipment is also included with other plumbing elements. It is automatic, and its use will not complicate the owners.

The sewer system is divided into external and internal. These elements of the system share the so-called. revisions. To make it easier to install pipes and other related elements, you need to know that the internal sewage system consists of several parts:

  • socket connecting elements;
  • special sewer line;
  • an ordinary sewer riser;
  • outlet pipes;
  • deflector;
  • ladder built into the floor.

Install the pipes carefully and slowly, then everything will work out.

Preparation for installation

Preparatory work is one of the most important parts. By neglecting to plan your actions or have the necessary tools, you can spend much more time installing pipes than expected. With the right steps, sewer installation can be completed in a few hours.

First you need to decide which devices will be installed and where exactly. Draw up a rough diagram on a piece of paper, think about what additional pipes or fittings may be required for normal operation devices. The installation diagram of sewer pipes is approximately as follows: Fig. 1.

If in the future you want to install another device that requires a sewer drain to operate, immediately provide an outlet for it, which can be closed with a temporary plug. Since doing it in the future will be very inconvenient.

Fig. 1 Approximate installation diagram of sewer pipes.

Calculate all the required dimensions and cut the products. Please take into account the dimensions of the fittings. Experts advise cutting off the sewer pipes immediately before installation, since in this case they can be gradually tried on as the system is assembled.

Plastic sewer pipes are cut using an ordinary hacksaw. To cut the pipe, draw a circle around it in the desired location to ensure a tight and even cut. It is necessary to cut at a right angle. The cut ends of the pipe are carefully cleaned using sandpaper or a knife.

Do not forget that sewer pipes must be installed at a slope, since almost any sewer system works with the help of gravity. The tilt of the products is fixed using brackets attached to the wall. They are sold as a set.

Prepare tools for installation:

  • grinder or hacksaw;
  • impact drill or hammer drill;
  • mounting gun;
  • chisel;
  • screwdrivers;
  • hammer;
  • adjustable wrench.

Self-installation

Rice. 2 Table for determining the angle of inclination of the sewer.

The first stage of work is to dismantle the old sewer pipes. The work is carried out in stages in the following sequence:

  • the water supply is turned off;
  • the hose that supplies water to the toilet tank is disconnected. An adjustable wrench is used for this;
  • The toilet is being dismantled. The bolts with which it is attached to the surface are unscrewed;
  • the bathroom space is vacated. It is necessary to remove all objects that may interfere with the work (washing machine, bidet, sink, etc.);
  • The old sewer system is being dismantled. Cast iron pipes that are located at a certain distance from the riser can be broken with a hammer;
  • pipes that are directly adjacent to the riser are dismantled.

Pipes that extend from a tee installed directly on the riser are removed especially carefully. To do this, using a grinder, the pipe is cut at a distance of 100 mm from the socket of the riser. Try to pull out the part that remains by slightly shaking it in the socket. In most cases, the remaining pipe falls out quite easily and quickly.

But if the pipe is “stuck” very firmly, you will have to put in more effort and spend time to remove it. To do this, several cuts are made along the segment up to the socket along the circumference with a grinder at a distance of about 2 cm from each other.

After this, you need to insert a chisel into the cut and gently tap it with a hammer until the pipe stuck in the tee bursts. Usually this method allows you to remove the old product. Otherwise, you will need to look for a “thin” place and apply a little more force to it.

The bell of the tee is cleaned. Before installing a new cuff on the bell, you need to remove the remaining old lubricant, because they can interfere with the correct and high-quality installation of new communications. After installing the new cuff, you can begin installing the pipes.

Pipe installation

When installing a sewer system, the most important job is installing the toilet. The product is connected to the sewer system using a plastic pipe with a diameter of 110 mm. After this, you need to make a “transition” to 50 mm pipes. This transition should be as smooth as possible. Do not immediately install the adapter to this diameter. It would be much more correct to use a small (100-150 mm) “bridge” of 100 mm in diameter, and only after that switch to a diameter of 50 mm. Firmly fix each joint and keep the slope towards the drain.

Avoid using right angle adapters. The best option will use 2 angles at 45°. Usually, in the process of installing an intra-apartment sewer system, welding of pipes is not required. Assembling the system is quite simple: the pipes are inserted into one another through gaskets, which ensures very good tightness. However, to be absolutely sure, it is better to use silicone sealant, which will provide a more durable connection between the parts of the structure. This way it will definitely not break through when the water starts running.

Accuracy, compliance with simple rules, use high quality materials and the appropriate tools allows you to install sewer system pipes with your own hands and at low cost. Good luck!

Today, in 99 out of 100 cases, PVC pipes are used to install modern sewer systems in both multi-story and private houses.

The fundamental difference between sewer pipes made of this material and water pipes is the thickness of the wall: there is no likelihood that high pressure will arise in the sewer system, so the wall of the product is always thin.

The main advantages of the products in question deservedly include:

  1. Easy to install.
  2. Minimum mass of parts.
  3. Resistance to destructive climatic and operational influences.
  4. Impossibility of clogging.

Features of installation of internal sewerage

To effectively organize work on laying a sewer system, all work should be divided into internal ones. Pipes with a diameter of 50, 100 and 110 mm are used indoors.

As a rule, a 110 mm piece is laid from the toilet to the collector. To connect other plumbing units, it is used with a diameter of 50 mm.

The basic rules for installing an internal system look like this:

  • , running horizontally, is carried out only with the use of beveled tees and similar fittings.
    Horizontal turns of the structure made at a straight angle are unacceptable.
  • Any turns are realized through bends, the bend angle is 45 degrees.
  • Turns should be equipped with parts for easy access - revisions.

Special attention should be paid to such an aspect as correct installation fan pipe sewer riser.

How to check the sewer system for leaks and get rid of them if found?

Testing of the assembled sewage system is carried out in the following ways:

Pour and check

  • A bucket of water with a capacity of at least 10 liters is abruptly tipped into a washbasin or sink. For greater reliability of the results, such a test should be repeated several times in a row.
  • Throughout the entire installed facility, all existing plumbing fixtures are turned on, creating loads on the sewer system (all taps are opened, the toilet is flushed, it is advisable to apply a load even to the drain washing machine). Such a check allows you to effectively assess not only the tightness of the system, but also its throughput, which in itself is of great importance.

If no leaks were detected, then the system is ready for operation. What to do if defects are still discovered? There are two ways to fix the problem:

  • Disassemble the “problematic” connection and reassemble it, paying maximum attention to assembly (correct installation of the gasket, quality of pipes).
  • If the first method does not help, then the leaking joint must be disassembled and carefully treated with sealant. As a rule, silicone is used as such.

Troubleshooting after verification

After the drying time specified by the sealant manufacturer has passed, testing the system must be repeated.
Manually assembling a sewer system in a private house is a rather labor-intensive process solely because there is a need to dig trenches for laying structural elements.

The assembly process itself does not require any special physical effort from the master; here it all comes down to the correct connection of individual parts and their synthesis into a finished structure.

Provided that everything necessary calculations were carried out correctly, the required slope was realized during the installation process, and the assembly process itself was carried out efficiently and responsibly, the operation of the assembled structure will not cause any difficulties, and the service life will be measured in tens of years.

Video on sewerage options

Such a necessary element of improvement of a private house, cottage or dacha as sewerage is, first of all, the first necessity and priority task for any owner.

In an area where central sewer lines run very far and there is no possibility of connecting to them, improving the living conditions with a comfortable toilet, bathroom or kitchen is not an easy task.

The difficulty lies in the specifics of the implementation installation work, selection of special materials, equipment and components.

Also knowledge of all the intricacies, features, rules and regulations on how to properly install a sewer pipeline and connect it to all types of plumbing, as well as to a drain pit, septic tank or any treatment facility.

Important! First of all, the necessary pipe slopes for a particular system are taken into account autonomous sewerage. This is done in order to ensure normal drainage and filling of the chambers of the drainage pit or septic tank.

So that there is no volley discharge of liquids every time household waste or, on the contrary, too slow drainage of feces and dirty, greasy water, so much so that the waste accumulates and stagnates in the pipeline system, forming blockages, so the optimal pipe diameters are also taken into account.

The width of the pipe also affects the flow rate, and therefore the filling of the sewer tank.

The presence of a ventilation system is one of the conditions for a normally functioning sewage system.

To avoid unpleasant accidents and negative influence on human health due to the accumulation of gases in pipes, and then, pressure and evaporation of their gaseous particles, ventilation hatches, wells, valves are installed in internal systems sewerage and external pipelines.

If the maximum length of the connecting section of the pipeline with the toilet is more than 1 meter, and all other types of plumbing are more than 3 meters, then such sections must be equipped with an additional ventilation pipe that brings the accumulation of gases through the roof to the outside.

Strong and reliable pipe connections in an autonomous sewer system are the key to its long-lasting and excellent operation. There will be no maximum strength of connections in pipeline sections - get ready for repairs and troubleshooting on the sewer route in just a few years.

Important! Therefore, careful consideration must be given to the study and selection of the types of connections and the materials and elements involved. These are all kinds of fittings, adapters, couplings, tees, crosses, rotating parts and many other elements connecting pipes.

Various methods of connecting metal or plastic sewer pipes are also used:

  • welding;
Photo: welded joint metal pipes
  • threaded connections;

Photo: threaded connection of sewer pipes
  • into the bell;

Photo: connecting sewer pipes into a socket
  • electrofusion connections;

Photo: electrofusion connections of sewer pipes
  • flange connections.

Photo: flange connection diagram

All of them are quite strong and good, if only they are carried out in accordance with the technologies and recommendations of specialists.

The most common and popular materials from which sewer pipes are laid are plastic and cast iron. Moreover, the use of plastic sewer pipes has long been replacing the use of cast iron.

And although the latter are no less practical to use, despite the fact that they are demanding to maintain and labor-intensive to install, they nevertheless continue to be used.


Photo: plastic sewer, cast iron sewer

In any case, no matter what material the pipes are used from, in order to produce high-quality pipes, you should always know step by step instructions, which may be relevant for a particular sewer system device.

Cutting plastic pipes

In the process of installing sewer networks made of plastic pipes, an obligatory step is cutting the pipes to the required length.

There are different types of plastic pipes, but most often the following options are used for sewer installation projects:

  • polyethylene (PE);
  • made of polyethylene low pressure(PND);
  • polyvinyl chloride (PVC);
  • polypropylene (PP) – reinforced and non-reinforced;
  • metal-plastic.

These types of polymer compounds and plastic material They are very resistant to the aggressive environment of sewage, resistant to corrosion, do not become clogged or “overgrow” with all kinds of mineral deposits inside, and are also durable (they last more than 50 years).

But in order to cut pipes of the required length from any plastic material, you will need to stock up necessary tools and available equipment, as well as knowledge of how to do it correctly.

For example, carelessly cut and uncleaned ends of pipes leave gaps at their joints through which domestic wastewater liquid will leak.

The tools that are used for cutting plastic pipes are each designed for a specific type of work, are easy to use, and are also very practical because they allow you to achieve excellent results in specialized processing of pipe ends and alignment of their diameter.

So, tools for cutting plastic pipes come in the following types:

  • pipe cutter;
  • special scissors and guillotines;
  • gauge or calibrator (needed, depending on the type of plastic).

Pipe cutter

A roller pipe cutter, for example, is excellent for cutting pipes plastic diameter up to 38 mm. It has a number of advantages - it makes cuts neat and even, without jagged edges, without bending the diameter of the pipe to oval shape because it works on the principle of a seaming machine for preservation.

The roller allows you to adjust the density of connection and joining of the cutting sections of the pipe cutter to the pipes.

First, one or two turns are made around the pipe, so the roller is tightened, and then a few more turns are made before the final cut.


Photo: roller pipe cutter

The only drawback of such a pipe cutter may be the limited working space. If you need to cut an already installed pipe, and it runs next to the wall, then there will simply be no place for such a device to turn around.

Then, for such sections, pipe cutters of a different type are used (for example, single-pass). Thanks to the roller pipe cutter, you can cut the maximum number of pipes in a short time.

Pipe cutting shears

Special scissors for cutting pipes, as a rule, can come complete with soldering irons or welding machines. Thanks to a very sharp knife with a flat, wide but short blade, the cuts of plastic pipes are smooth.


Photo: pipe cutting

And thanks to the semicircular holder located under the knife, the pipe will not bend during cutting, which eliminates the need for additional alignment of its ends.

Simple and cheap models of such scissors cut pipes with a diameter of up to 26 mm, and more powerful scissors can handle pipes with a diameter of up to 42 mm.

The only drawback when working with such a tool may be rapid fatigue of the hands due to lack of habit (this applies to a large volume of pipe cutting).

Chamfer remover

The task of such equipment is to remove the top layer or edge of the ends of plastic pipes along the diameter in order to improve adhesion during their welding.

The diameters of the pipes that the chamfers cover, of course, vary depending on the model of the device itself.


Photo: chamfer

For example, manual bevelers can service pipes from 40 to 300 mm, which is a fairly wide range of its operating capabilities.

You can work with a manual chamfer right at the installation site of the sewer system and can make chamfers even at an angle of up to 15 degrees.

Caliber

A gauge is always necessary when working with reinforced plastic pipes because it makes a very important work by cleaning the aluminum layer on the pipe cut before soldering them, and also chamfering, removing burrs and other irregularities of the cut ends.

Calibrators very well align the shape of the end of the pipes, turning it from oval to round. This is important point for the entire process of connecting pipes using welding.

Each calibrator is suitable only for a certain pipe diameter. However, they process ends cut at 90 degrees. This is the only way to make the connection as high quality as possible, without leaks.


Photo: caliber

Important! All work on cutting plastic pipes must be carried out in accordance with the instructions that come with a particular cutting tool.

This is necessary so that you can avoid poorly cut ends or various traumatic situations associated with the operation of a particular tool.

Fitting and installation of sewer plastic pipes

In order to correctly connect and lay plastic pipes, you need to know some features of the installation process, taking into account and implementing which allows you to create an excellent sewer system that can last for many decades.

Such features include:

  • any type of threaded connection polymer pipes always sealed with rubber gaskets or special FUM tape;

Important! In the case of a socket, only rubber gaskets must be used, and in the case of connecting a plastic pipe with a metal one, any sealant must be used.

  • when plastic pipes are connected threaded connection using couplings, you should insert the end of the pipe with a chamfer into the coupling until it stops, and then slightly move it back, about 1-1.5 cm;

This must be done so that the resulting minimum internal gap allows the pipe to be protected from deformation during linear expansion during the supply of hot sewage effluent. There is no need to worry about the tightness of the connection in this case because it is ensured by the rubber sealing ring inside the coupling.

  • very important for the sewer where it will drain hot water, use a movable connection of pipeline sections, and therefore most often threaded or any other removable connections are used for internal sewerage. Welding here can only be suitable for HDPE pipes and polypropylene pipes;
  • in places where sewerage is connected to plumbing, it is best to use flexible connections: hoses, corrugations, soft pipes and others.

All work on the installation of sewerage from plastic pipes is carried out practically according to the same scenario:

  • Markings are made on the walls, floor, and at connections with plumbing fixtures with a simple pencil or with a marker from the line of the fitting socket to the next connection, from the place where the drains are discharged, the pipe to the connecting elements of sinks, bathtubs, toilets and other fixtures for the bathroom or kitchen;
  • Next, the pipes themselves are laid using any chosen method of connecting them: by welding or special connecting elements and fasteners to the walls (this is necessary so that the pipes do not sag);
  • All connecting areas must be free of dust, debris, paint or adhesive. Especially carefully, before connecting a particular piece of pipe, check internal surfaces pipes;
  • elbows or bends, which have inclinations of 22.5, 45 and 90 degrees in their design, can be connected to the pipeline or plumbing using adapters. Tee fittings are used in cases where it is necessary to make a branch from one line of sewer pipes to another.

Photo: installation of sewerage from plastic pipes

Installation of cast iron pipes

Due to the fact that they are very heavy, experts recommend installing them not by one person, but by at least two.

The entire installation process proceeds according to the following scheme:

  • the tail part of a cast iron pipe with a straight end without a socket is inserted into the socket of a pipe that is already installed. This may be an outlet pipe, or it may be part of a pipeline network;

Photo: installation of cast iron sewer pipes
  • We seal all the gaps between the edges of the end of the socket and the inserted surface of the straight pipe using a sealant, such as flax tow, soaked in grease, machine oil or any other lubricant;

Photo: sealing pipes using a sealant

The flax tow is hammered (“caulked”) into the gaps to 2/3 of the volume of the socket using a wooden spatula, gently tapping it with a hammer. On at this stage It is important to ensure that linen material does not get inside the pipe connection.

  • the remaining distance is filled with a simple unimpregnated sealant because any impregnation with oil will weaken further adhesion to the cement mortar;
  • then the socket is filled to the very end with a solution of cement grade M400 or 300 with water in a ratio of 9:1. The solution must be compacted in the socket so that it sits tightly;
  • a wet rag is placed on top of the drying mortar, which will prevent cracks from appearing in the cement;
  • instead of cement mortar can also be used for plumbing silicone sealant, bitumen mastic, as well as asbestos-cement mixture
Photo: socket connection without O-rings

This method is most often used at junctions cast iron pipes among themselves, however, where connection with a plastic corrugated pipe, use all kinds of special couplings and adapters.

The connection areas with the coupling are also sealed using silicone sealant.

Installation rules

Normal pipeline slope

Most often, an autonomous sewer system is equipped as a non-pressure sewer system, i.e. one where all household waste liquids flowed by gravity to a storage tank or sewage treatment system.

Important! To ensure that liquid waste does not overfill the drainage pit or septic tank chambers, and also to prevent it from stagnating in the pipeline, it is necessary to lay sewer pipes at a certain slope.

This is done from the plumbing fixture to the internal pipeline, then to the external sewer network and further towards the septic tank or drainage pit.

The used slopes from 0.8 to 3 cm ensure a normal rate of flow of wastewater to the storage or sewage treatment tank.

The optimal speed for sewerage for a private house or cottage is always taken from 0.7 to 1 m/s (SNiP 2.04.01-85).


Photo: sewer pipe slope

There is a certain percentage of the width of the pipes that is accepted as the norm to ensure sufficient drainage - from 2 to 15 units.

This means that the difference between the diameter of the end of the pipe at the point where the plumbing equipment is connected to the sewer system and between the width of the pipe that goes into the drainage pit or septic tank should be from two to fifteen centimeters.

Pipe size also plays a role big role in normal fluid flow.

The most optimal pipe diameters for different sections of autonomous sewerage are:

  • the washbasin and bidet are connected to pipes with a diameter of 32 to 40 mm;
  • the sink and bathtub are connected to pipes with a diameter of 50 mm;
  • the toilet bowl and drain pipe for drainage are mounted to pipes with a diameter of 100 mm;
  • the riser and places where several plumbing fixtures are connected at once are installed on pipes with diameters from 70 to 85 mm.

Photo: slopes and diameters of drainage pipes

Insulation of sewerage pipeline

The rules for installing sewer pipes also include their insulation. This is especially true for pipeline installations such as those located in areas where soil freezing occurs at a depth of less than 50 cm.


Photo: insulation with a heating cable; insulation of a sewerage pipeline with fiberglass

Pipes are insulated with glass wool or fiberglass by wrapping, covering with polyethylene and fixing with wires.

Ventilation system of autonomous sewage system

The presence of ventilation of the sewer pipeline allows the entire system to operate unhindered and not accumulate all kinds of gases that can be formed from various compounds contained in household waste liquids.

Moreover, these compounds can be both chemical and organic.

Chemical inclusions are those that enter the sewer pipeline system with detergents and cleaning agents, and organic inclusions include feces, bacteria (if you use aerobic bacteria for cleaning and decomposition of fecal matter), products of rotting, decay and other elements that can form gases in one way or another.

Gaseous substances tend not only to ignite or create pressure in pipes, but also to evaporate, causing harm to human health and damage to the environment.

If the house has several floors and there are several sewer risers, then ventilation should be located in each riser. Exit ventilation to the outside, in such cases.


Photo: sewer outlet through the roof, sewer outlet through the wall

Usually done through walls or roof. For sewer pipes of several risers, aeration valves can be used as additional ventilation.

As for ventilation wells in sections of external pipelines, they need to be installed closer to septic tanks or drainage pits, as well as near the drainage pit itself.

This is done to ensure that gases do not accumulate inside the pit and the sewer inlet pipe belonging to the sewer pipe network.

Prices for installation work

Prices for installation of sewer pipes both for external internal network do not differ much between regions of the Russian Federation. In averaged values ​​they present the following picture.

Installation of internal sewerage

Installation of external sewerage

Earthworks 1 cubic meter 1500
Holes in the foundation for pipes pcs. 3500
Laying sewer pipes with a diameter of 150 mm m.p. 170
Laying sewer pipes with a diameter of 110 mm m.p. 90
Connection to the house without attachment to plumbing pcs. 1990
Installation of a sewerage point with pipe routing dot 2200
Insulation of sewer pipes m.p. 80
Installation of ventilation air valves pcs. 500
Installation of inspection wells pcs. 500

In addition to the above basic work, there is a number of additional manipulations that are paid separately.

These include:

  • gating in various surfaces: foam concrete, brick, concrete, etc.;
  • dismantling old pipes or plumbing;
  • painting sewer pipes;
  • installation of a pump for forced flushing (installed if the drainage of household waste and feces is not carried out by gravity).

For such work, the cost is either negotiable or varies depending on the complexity of the work.

If you want to know and try to do it yourself, then you need to study in detail all the options, installation methods and recommendations of specialists for high-quality pipe laying, both in internal and external sewer systems.

Important! It should also be understood that all these recommendations, installation rules and tips will differ for the installation of pipes made of plastic or cast iron.

That is why there is such a need to clearly know all the steps performed to install sewer pipes.

Video: installation of sewer pipes

The sewer system in a private house is created in order to remove wastewater outside the premises. In accordance with this, the implementation and design of this system must be done in such a way that unpleasant odors do not enter the house, and plugs do not form in the pipeline.

If you carefully consider the process of installing a sewer system, you will understand that it is actually possible to do it yourself. Quality work done will work perfectly for many years. In most cases, modern sewer systems are equipped with plastic. This allows you to forget about rust and corrosion.

But this does not mean a complete absence of shortcomings, since traffic jams from sewage often form in the sewer system. This happens because mistakes were made when installing pipes, and leads to blockages and unpleasant odors entering the house. For the same reason, the sewer system can make noise and take excess water from the siphons.

IN wooden houses Pipes from rounded logs or beams can be laid directly in the log house, for this you need to make cuts the right size in the walls.

Diameters and slopes of the sewer system

Wastewater in private homes usually moves by gravity. For this method to work properly, you must adhere to several rules, including a certain slope from the pipe to the device when laying, and then to the collector or tank located outside.

As a percentage, the slope can be determined in a value from two to fifteen units. This suggests that the difference between the end of the pipe located at the beginning and its final value should be from two to fifteen cm. It is necessary to turn special attention the width of each type of pipe so that waste liquids containing various solids flow without clogging the sewer. When choosing the most suitable size, first of all, pay attention to their type and the number of sanitary equipment connected to the system.

  • Bidet or washbasin – 3.2 – 4.0.
  • Bathroom or sink – at least 5.
  • The situation in which a riser is installed or several sanitary appliances are connected is 7.0 - 8.5.
  • Drainage pipe, riser or toilet - at least 10.

If you change the direction of laying pipes when installing a sewer system, then you need to choose an angle of more than 90 degrees. Pipes connecting plumbing fixtures to risers are connected at an angle of less than 45 degrees. If you are installing a sewer system located indoors without heating or outside, then you must protect the pipes from temperature and cold surges.

The most suitable temperature for sewer pipes is between 5 and 45 degrees Celsius. In other cases, you should use thermal insulation material, for example, glass fiber wool.

Laying ventilation for the sewer system

The ventilation pipe, at the end of which there is a deflector, serves as a mandatory element of the sewer system, without which it cannot be installed. This pipe connects the internal sewage system with the open space. The ventilation system is built in because it eliminates the possibility of unwanted drain leaks and pressure surges.

From the name it is clear that this system provides sewer ventilation. This allows you to remove the vacuum and not waste excess water flowing beyond the high siphons. Even drains that block the entire cross-section of the sewer pipe are not a problem. Ventilation must be installed in each sewer riser. Sometimes situations arise in which ventilation cannot be removed above the roof. In this case, a common wide ventilation pipe is used to make the connection.

Approximate scheme of ventilation of the sewer system

There is one more alternative option. Sometimes the ventilation pipe is installed on a riser located as far away as possible. At the same time, the ends of other risers are equipped with aeration valves. This method is suitable for working with a small number of risers, maximum 4-5. Aeration valves do not have complete versatility, so they cannot completely replace ventilation pipes, since air through them is transmitted only in one direction, namely to the sewerage system. As a result, excess gas accumulates, which must be released into the atmosphere.

The importance of a strong connection

Appliances that belong to the sanitary type, such as showers, bathtubs, washbasins, must be provided with a connection general class With sewer riser. The toilet is connected separately, and the level of connection with the riser must not be lower than other connections. In this case, valuable advice regarding quick-release pipe connections may come in handy. In a situation where you decide to install a sewer system, they are best suited, since they imply the ability to change a damaged element quickly and without much effort.

The connection between sanitary fixtures and the riser must be as long as possible: one meter for toilets and three meters for everything else. If the maximum length exceeds the above values, you need to install an additional ventilation pipe, which should be installed above the roof level of the house, or use an aeration valve. There is another way, which is to connect pipes of larger width.

This case is described in special regulatory instructions. In a situation, if you do not pay attention to the stated rules, the water that is in the siphon of the device may escape. It's worth taking care of it if you hear gurgling sounds. The siphon will be empty and will begin to pass through itself unpleasant odors coming from the sewer system.

Materials used for sewer installation

Nowadays, plastic pipes have become very popular when installing domestic sewerage systems.

The reason for this is the impossibility of rust formation and low weight. Installation of steel pipes from cast iron is still carried out, but recently much less frequently.

Connections between the sewer system and plumbing fixtures

The process of drainage by gravity can be complicated by plumbing fixtures located in the premises low level. In this case, the planning features do not provide necessary conditions required for correct pipe slope. However, there is a way out of this situation.

On construction markets you can find special equipment with which wastewater is pumped. It is connected to the toilet at the same time as a device that shreds paper and sewage. This equipment can also be installed on other sanitary fixtures, such as bathtubs and washbasins.

The device works automatically. The sewer system can be divided into one that is located indoors and the remaining part located on the site. In this case, you can draw a boundary, in the place of which you need to install the main revision. If we consider the sewer system installed in the vast majority of private houses, we can highlight some of its parts:

  • Deflectors installed at the end of the ventilation pipe.
  • A drain that is mounted into the floor.
  • Sewer riser, which is used to connect sewer pipes that discharge waste water s from plumbing fixtures.
  • Drainage pipes are also called sewer horizontals, but they are laid, despite the name, at a slight slope.
  • Socket-type connections, which are almost always used to connect sewer couplings and pipes.
  • Sewer line, which consists of pipes that connect toilets, washbasins, bathtubs with a drainage pipe.

The process of installing external sewerage

Many homeowners who have already installed indoor sewerage are faced with the problem of installing external sewerage, since this process is much more complicated and expensive. Initially, it is necessary to dig a special trench of such depth that it is possible to drain wastewater without any special obstacles. Sewage should quickly go into the central sewer system or into a septic tank.

Septic tank in a pit prepared for installation

We should not forget about the climatic features of our latitude. The pit must be so deep that the sewer does not freeze in winter, otherwise it may fail. Inside the trench, sewer pipes are laid according to such a principle that they fit tightly to the base along its entire length. Then, using a plumb line, you need to check whether the installation of the pipe corresponds to the slope. It should be kept so that it is approximately 2-4 centimeters for every meter of pipe.

Next comes the connection and sealing of the sewer pipes. Before applying sealant to the surface, it is worth cleaning the joint and treating it with a special lubricant. It is possible to install sewer pipes without digging a trench. This is done using special punches. Once again, it is worth noting that before laying the sewerage system, you need to find out the approximate depth of soil freezing.

At the exit from the premises, pipes must be laid below the freezing level of the ground. If you do not have such information, then you should not skimp on thermal insulation, otherwise you can earn yourself a lot of headaches.

DIY sewer pipe installation

The first part of the work is to dismantle the old sewer pipes (if any). This is quite easy to do. First you need to turn off the water supply, disconnect the hose supplying water to the toilet tank (use an adjustable wrench to do this).

Afterwards, the toilet is dismantled, the bolts holding it to the surface are unscrewed, the bathroom space is emptied, and all objects that interfere with the work are removed. The old sewer system is being dismantled metal pipes can be broken with a hammer. The pipes directly adjacent to the riser are removed.

When installing sewer pipes, one of the most important tasks is correct installation toilet. Usually this element is connected to the sewer using a 110 mm plastic pipe. After this, you can install the transition to 50 mm pipes. It is better to make this transition smooth; you should not immediately install a 110-50 mm adapter.

It would be optimal to install a kind of “bridge” with a diameter of 100 mm, and then move on to a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm. Do not forget about the strong fixation of all joints and the slope towards the drain.

It is not advisable to use rectangular adapters. If there is such a need, it is better to use 2 angles of 45 degrees. When installing a sewer system in a private house, welding is usually not required, and the assembly process itself is quite simple: pipes are inserted into one another through gaskets, which gives a good seal.

For maximum results, silicone sealant should be used, which provides a more durable connection to the structure. In this case, it will definitely remain intact the first time you turn on the water.