It is quite possible to make a facing material such as ceramic tiles with your own hands. Making ceramics at home can be done using plastic and silicone molds. They are sold in a fairly wide range in gardening and construction stores.

Modern housing cannot be imagined without tiled cladding. And ceramics, made and painted with your own hands, will become a real decoration in kitchens, bathrooms, and even as a decorative element in rooms. For those who are not afraid to do it themselves required quantity ceramics, the technique of making such a coating at home comes to the rescue.

Decorative tiles can also be made under stone. Any type of natural stone can be imitated. Such material will resemble its natural analogue as realistically as possible. How to make tiles that imitate stone yourself? In the simplest version, gypsum powder is used for this with the addition of fillers and dyes, which form a unique pattern for each finished product. But it won't be ceramics.

What is this article about?

Why you should make ceramics yourself

Tile in the form of artificial decorative stone can also be ceramic. Homemade tiles have advantages over finishing with natural materials. The main advantage of decorative ceramics made to resemble stone is its cost, which is significantly lower than the cost of natural analogues. The components used in production make tiles lighter than natural materials. For decorative finishing ceramics made to look like brick are perfect.

There are no limits to your imagination when it comes to how to make tiles for your needs. It can be decorated in any way you like. For example, the kitchen can be decorated ceramic finish depicting still lifes. You can “settle” sea creatures in the bathroom, and fancy patterns or fairy-tale motifs will be in place in the nursery. Stone-like tiles will look great in the living room, hallway, and around doorways. This finishing material will perfectly complement the design wherever its use is appropriate.

Such a universal finishing material, made with your own hands, will not only enrich and diversify the interior, but will also provide significant cost savings. Despite the fact that home-made tiles are less durable than factory products, with proper care they can last for decades, delighting in the original, absolutely unique design. These bases are enough for you to start making ceramics yourself to cover small sections of walls, paths, openings, etc.

How does homemade production differ from factory production?

Many people are accustomed to the idea that making tiles is only possible using complex technological equipment, which means in living conditions making your own tile is unrealistic. But this is not true. Of course, when self-production ceramics technology differs from factory technology.

The stages of making tiles yourself include:

1. Kneading clay.
2. Shaping.
3. Drying.
4. Firing in a special oven.
5. Applying glaze.
6. Re-firing.

How to make ceramic tiles in the right quantity? In domestic conditions, a sufficient number of forms will be required. The more molds are purchased, the faster the process of manufacturing the coating material will go. It is important to consider that it will take about 2 days to produce one tile. Dried tiles can be removed from the mold only after this period. Thus, the cycle of using the mold ensures that one product is obtained every 2 days.

How to choose clay

Do-it-yourself tiles cannot be made from just any clay. It is important to take into account the plasticity of the selected raw material, because it will not be possible to make high-quality tiles without this. Clay can be low-plasticity and plastic. It can also be called skinny and fat. To determine how plastic the clay is, just take a small piece, roll it into a sausage and stretch it. If it stretches well, this means that the raw material has sufficient plasticity.

To make tiles with your own hands, it is recommended to choose clay with an average plasticity index or not very “fat” raw materials. The best option would be medium-plastic clay, which will make a fairly strong tile. During the firing process, such a tile will not “tear”. The clay must be damp. Before use, it must be allowed to rest in the bag, preventing the evaporation of water. The structure of unpacked clay contains pores with air, which reduces its plasticity and impairs its binding properties.

How to form tiles

Step-by-step instructions for making tiles yourself are not complicated. The production of ceramic tiles begins with molding:

1. The clay is placed in molds and compacted tightly. This must be done so that the edges of the form and the product coincide.
2. Excessive amounts of clay must be removed, otherwise the decorative tiles will have very sharp edges after drying. If you try to fight them off, the tile may break.
3. Drying the clay should take as long as it takes for it to completely harden. This can be determined by a change in the color of the material: sufficiently dried clay will become significantly lighter, which will be a sign of evaporation of excess moisture from the tile. Once this happened, a semi-finished product called raw material was obtained.

Despite the fact that the raw material looks quite strong, it can crumble when tapped. At this stage, you can still change anything. It is enough just to throw the raw material into a container with wet clay so that it takes up water, softens and becomes suitable for use again.

The next step is firing, which changes everything physical properties clay and no alterations will be possible.

How is firing carried out?

If you plan to manufacture floor tiles at home without glaze, it will be enough to perform only one firing. If, after the first firing, it is planned to cover the plates with glaze, then a second firing stage will be required.

The facing tiles are fired at a temperature not exceeding 1000°C. The first firing is called biscuit firing. Its result will be a porous structure of the material, which will ensure absorption required quantity glaze in the second stage. This is how they basically make floor tiles with their own hands.

The second firing is carried out at a similar temperature, which will ensure that the glaze is baked sufficiently. When creating floor tiles with your own hands, it is better not to make glaze, as it is very slippery, which is unsafe, especially in the bathroom. Wall tiles are most often made with a glassy coating.

During the firing process, the tile shrinks. It can be significant. That is why tiles at home must be made in quantity so that there is enough finished material to cover a certain surface. The number of spare parts can be determined by eye, because it will be difficult to make an accurate calculation. In addition, it is necessary to provide for possible slaughter and cracking of products during the cladding process.

What to use for firing

Some skeptics argue that it is impossible to reach temperatures close to 1000°C in domestic conditions. But for the manufacture of ceramics, 900°C may well be sufficient. And this value can be provided by a muffle furnace.

For biscuit firing, the temperature should be from 850°C. It is then that the remaining moisture evaporates from the tile and it becomes finely porous, like a biscuit.

You can stop at this stage if the tiles are intended to be laid on the floor. After this firing, the tile becomes quite hard and strong. When creating wall tiles with your own hands, when you want to get a tile cladding with smooth surface, imitating natural stone or some kind of pattern, will require additional processing. Ceramics that have gone through one stage of firing without glaze are called terracotta. If it is necessary to obtain majolica, then a second firing of the ceramics will be required to form the glaze coating.

How to paint tiles

Making tiles is not everything. It must externally correspond to the intended design. To do this, you will need to master some additional decorating techniques so that the drawing you make with your own hands is unique.

How are patterned ceramics made?

One of the ways is painting on ceramics. This is a fairly simple method that allows you to give the tiles an original appearance. You can also use the decoupage technique to decorate the tiles.

Do-it-yourself tiles are rarely made without a pattern. You can paint your own made tiles using the decoupage technique. If you choose the right materials, you will get a fairly strong coating that will be able to withstand damage. These tiles will last a long time.

A step-by-step action plan consists of several steps. First of all, you need to choose a suitable napkin motif. What to choose from? For example, for the kitchen it could be a fruit basket, wine, or floral motifs, landscape, etc. Appearance hand-made tiles for painting, it will be better if the motif covers the entire surface.

If the napkins are multi-layered, then for decoupage you only need top layer with a drawing. When wet, napkins stretch, so it will be necessary to treat them using a certain method. The napkin should be laid out with the pattern facing up on a flat surface. After this, it should be coated with hairspray, covered with parchment and ironed with a warm iron. This procedure will allow the napkin to retain its shape.

How to apply a drawing

At the next stage, the prepared tiles are degreased with alcohol or detergent. The finished motif is then placed face down on a stationery file and held under a thin stream of water to wet it. After this, the excess water is drained and the napkin is straightened. Next, the file is placed on the tile. Take a soft cloth and smooth the surface with light pressure. The file is carefully removed, the napkin should remain on the surface of the tile.

If bubbles and folds have formed, they should be removed using a fan brush, moving from the center to the edges. It is important not to press too hard to avoid tearing the paper. After a few minutes, the napkin should be secured with PVA glue. To apply the glue, you should again use a fan brush. Finished work must sit until completely dry.

Next, take an aerosol can of car varnish and cover the surface of the tile thin layer product, which must then dry completely. If during work the napkin accidentally tears, you can paint on the corresponding area acrylic paints. The same can be done if a motive of insufficient size was used. In such a case, you can shade the transition from the drawing to the rest of the surface or paint a shadow in gray tones. After finishing the painting, the surface is also covered with a layer of varnish.

Colorful tiling for the kitchen or bathroom is ready.

Manufacturing facing material This type is labor-intensive, but technologically it is not particularly complex. To independently cast paving slabs for the courtyard of a house or cottage, you will need the following tools and equipment:

• concrete mixer;
• buckets and shovel;
• vibrating table

Also, of course, you will have to purchase or make your own molds for the tiles. The materials for the manufacture of such facing material will be needed:

• fine gravel;
• sand;
• cement;
• oil for lubricating molds;
• pigment dye;
• plasticizer

Main stages of production

You should pour concrete paving slabs with your own hands using approximately the following technology:

• the mixture is prepared in a concrete mixer;
• place the forms on the vibrating table;
• grease the molds with oil;
• turn on the vibrating table;
• wait until the mixture is evenly distributed in the mold;
• Leave the tiles to dry inside the molds for 1-2 days.

The finished facing material is removed from the molds and left to dry for several more days. Next, the tiles are used for their intended purpose.

How to prepare the mixture correctly

It is recommended to make concrete mortar for paving slabs exclusively in a concrete mixer. Unfortunately, it will be almost impossible to make a high-quality mixture for casting such a facing material manually.

When using hand technology In any case, the kneading solution will not be particularly homogeneous. Accordingly, tiles made from it will not have very good performance characteristics.

Concrete mass is prepared for the manufacture of paving slabs in the proportion of cement/fine crushed stone/sand as 1/1/2. In this case, take enough water so that the finished solution has the consistency of wet cottage cheese.

In any case, it is highly not recommended to dilute the prepared concrete mixture with too much water. Otherwise, the tiles will become brittle in the future and will begin to quickly deteriorate during use. It is necessary to use a thick mixture to make paving cladding. Subsequently, during vibration compaction in forms, the concrete will still become much more liquid and plastic.

Why are plasticizers needed?

This ingredient must be present in the solution intended for the manufacture of paving slabs. A plasticizer is needed to increase the fluidity and elasticity of the solution without the need for additional addition of water.

When using such a substance, the cement mixture becomes denser and stronger. And this, in turn, of course, has the most positive effect on the quality of the finished paving slabs.

Preparation of plasticizer for casting

Such mixtures should be used in very small quantities when preparing tile mortar. The finished mass of plasticizers should contain only about half a percent. If more mixtures of this type are added to the solution, the finished tile, as with excess water, may turn out to be too brittle.

Of course, the plasticizer for tile mortar, among other things, also needs to be properly prepared. Such mixtures are sold in specialized stores in dry form. Before adding to the cement mixture, they must be diluted with water.

To prepare the plasticizer:

• water heated to 40 °C is poured into some container;
• pour the dry mixture there;
• mix everything thoroughly for at least 15 minutes with a construction mixer.

The plasticizer is prepared when making paving slabs in a water/dry mixture ratio of 2:1. After stirring, the solution must also be left to stand for several hours.

The plasticizer for the mortar under the tiles is usually prepared in the evening. In this case, in the morning this ingredient can simply be stirred for 15 minutes and added to the mixture.

What is a vibrating table

Equipment of this type can be made by hand if desired. The design elements of a vibrating table intended for pouring paving slabs are:

• frame welded from steel angle;
• a metal sheet laid on top of the frame on spring or rubber shock absorbers;
• eccentric motor.

The width and length of the “countertop” of such equipment are selected depending on the size of the future tile. One vibrating table, designed for making such cladding with your own hands, is usually designed for 4-6 molds.

Brief instructions for filling forms

The molds for the tiles are placed on the table close to each other. This arrangement makes it easier to fill them in the future.

After the forms are installed on the vibrating table, they are thoroughly lubricated with some kind of oil - vegetable oil or even, for example, just regular oil. This procedure allows you to subsequently obtain tiles with a perfectly smooth surface.

In addition, when using oil during the manufacturing process, the paving slabs will not stick to the walls and bottom of the mold. And this, in turn, further facilitates the removal of the finished facing material.

The cement-sand mortar prepared in a concrete mixer is laid using a trowel in the center of the forms. After all the containers are filled, turn on the vibrating table. Operate such equipment to obtain quality tiles should be at least 3-4 minutes. After turning on the table, the mixture, under the influence of vibration, begins to be evenly distributed among the molds.

Once on the surface cement mixture White “foam” will appear in the containers; the table can be turned off. What follows:

• cover the forms with the solution with film or, for example, a piece of plywood;
• During the day, periodically water the hardening tiles with water to avoid the appearance of surface cracks on them.

The finished facing material is usually removed from the molds on the second day after pouring. The frozen tiles are placed in a dry, dark place and left to ripen for at least another 5 days.

Use of pigments

Actually, concrete itself, as you know, has a not very pleasant gray color. In order to make the finished tiles, intended, for example, for a garden path, aesthetically attractive, pigment dyes are often added to the cement mortar, among other things.

Such compositions, unfortunately, are quite expensive. Therefore, to reduce the cost finished tiles in its manufacture, the following technology for coloring the solution is sometimes used:

• divide the concrete mixture into two halves;
• Pigment is added to one of the parts, and the second is left unpainted.

Subsequently, when pouring, the colored solution is first placed into the mold and the vibrating table is turned on. After the mixture is distributed over the surface of the container, add the uncolored mixture.

When using this technology, the result is a relatively inexpensive, beautiful colored tile with a regular gray concrete “base”. This cladding looks no worse than a completely painted one.

Is it possible to do without a vibrating table?

When using such equipment, homemade, hand-made tiles, of course, turn out to be of the highest quality. In addition, the use of a vibrating table also greatly simplifies the procedure for manufacturing such cladding. However, such equipment, of course, is not available on every farm.

Vibrating tables used for making paving slabs are quite expensive. Many owners assemble them with their own hands suburban areas Those who decide to line the yard with paving slabs may seem like an unnecessary procedure. After all, the vibrating table may not be useful in the future.

In order not to waste extra money and time, many owners of country houses simply make tiles with their own hands without using a vibrating table. In this case, the following method of casting paving lining is used:

• the form is placed on a regular table;
• put the first small portion of the mixture into the container;
• carefully level the solution with a trowel;
• apply the next portion of concrete mixture.

In this way, fill the form with the solution to the brim. Next, they begin to compact the mixture, raising the edge of the container with sharp, frequent movements and lowering it with a not too strong impact on the table.

It takes quite a long time to compact the mixture in the mold manually, just as when using a vibrating table. This will significantly increase the strength of the finished facing products.

In any case, the mixture compaction procedure should take at least 4 minutes. After the solution in the mold becomes liquid, it is further leveled with a spatula, removing excess. After two days, as when using a vibrating table, frozen tiles removed from the molds.

Final stage

After removing the finished tiles, the surface of the molds usually remains fairly clean. However, it is necessary to wash such containers after finishing the production of paving cladding material. Moreover, it is advisable to do this immediately.

If the molds are not cleaned, pieces of concrete stuck to their bottoms and walls will negatively affect the quality of the next batch of tiles. Wash containers intended for the manufacture of paving linings, usually or simply warm water, or strong saline solution.

If the owners plan to equip paths on their country plot or areas around a private city house, then they will inevitably have to make a decision about what material will do this better and more economically. Today, paving slabs have become a fairly popular coating used everywhere. different colors and configurations.

However, this material, as well as its transportation and unloading, is not cheap, especially since losses are possible during transportation, which means purchasing tiles with a reserve will also be an extra expense. That’s why many homeowners are thinking about how to make paving slabs at home and save a decent amount of money.

Advantages of making tiles yourself

It is quite possible to make this material yourself. Of course, the lack of special equipment and accumulated experience will make this process quite lengthy, but it will save you from searching for an option that is suitable in design and color.

If you decide to start making paving slabs yourself, then you need to be prepared for quite labor-intensive work. However, the result obtained from it will exceed all expectations when the paths or area near the house will have exactly the appearance that the owners intended during development landscape design their possessions.

Advantage homemade is also the fact that you can independently create an exclusive version of the tile, which is not produced in any industrial scale, neither at all, nor anyone else.

In the process of developing our own version tiles there is always the opportunity to experiment with color scheme and even molds, since casting matrices can also be made independently.

Molds for making paving slabs

If the store did not find a tile of the required configuration, or it was found, but the price is too high, or its color does not quite suit the owners, then you can always find a way out of this situation by making matrices for its manufacture yourself. Such forms are usually prepared in quantities of several pieces, and with their help they produce as many paving slabs as will be necessary for landscaping paths and areas on the site.

paving slabs

To do this, only a few copies of finished tiles of any color are purchased, from which the molds are made. In addition to tiles, a board with a beautiful textured pattern or a stone you like for its shape can be used as a starting sample.

The matrices can be single, that is, designed for one tile, or complex, in which several products are made at once. The second option is more difficult to do, but during the production of the tiles the work will go much faster.

To make the mold you will need formwork material and, naturally, a special composition for casting the matrix.

The formwork is made larger than the size of the original sample by 20÷30 mm in height and 12÷15 mm in width. It must be taken into account that paving slabs must have a thickness of at least 35÷60 mm. Suitable as formwork plywood box, cardboard box or any other material that can withstand the pouring of plastic mold composition. The matrices themselves are made from a two-component polyurethane-based compound or silicone sealant.

Polyurethane compound mold

In the assortment of construction stores you can find several types of compound specially designed for the manufacture of matrices for gypsum castings, artificial facade stone and paving slabs. One of the most popular of them can be called the domestic composition “Silagerm 5035”, as it has excellent technical and physical characteristics. The molding composition is made on the basis of polyurethane and is produced in two hardness parameters - 30 and 40 units. according to Shor's table. Its main indicators are shown in the table

	Hardness 30±3	Hardness 40±3
Time for the formation of a surface film after contact of components with air, (min) no more.	45÷100	45÷100
Viability (min), no more.	60÷120	60÷120
	3.0÷4.5	3.5÷5.0
	450÷600	400÷600
Shrinkage (%), no more.	1	1
Viscosity (cP).	3000÷3500	3000÷3500
Density (g/cm³), no more.	1.07±0.02	1.07±0.02

The manufacture of a matrix from a compound is carried out as follows:

• The sample for making the matrix must be thoroughly washed and dried.
• Next, the original sample and the interior of the prepared formwork are covered with a solution consisting of white spirit and wax. This composition is applied in two layers. It can be replaced with ready-made wax lubricant.
• Then a two-component mixture is prepared. To do this, a hardener is added to the paste in a 2:1 ratio, and the mass is mixed until smooth. It is very important to maintain the proportions, since the correct hardening of the finished material will depend on them.

If a large amount of the mixture is being prepared, then the preparation process is carried out using a drill with a mixer attachment, but a small volume can be mixed with a spatula. When mixing the mass, the drill is turned on at low speed, otherwise the composition will turn out with a large number of air bubbles. If the unmixed components of the compound are not completely used, then the containers with them must be tightly closed with standard lids to prevent contact with air.

• The finished mixture is carefully poured into the formwork, into which the template is placed face up. The filling composition must cover the original sample completely and the thickness of its layer above its upper part must be at least 8÷10 mm.
• Upon completion of pouring, the formwork should be moved slightly back and forth, shaking slightly, to rid the mixture of air bubbles. Then, the pouring should sit for 5-7 minutes - during this time, air bubbles will rise to the surface, and they can be carefully removed with a spatula.
• After 24 hours, the mixture will harden and the form can be removed from the formwork. However, it is allowed to be used for its intended purpose only 72 hours after the material has acquired all the qualities declared by the manufacturer. After this time, the mold will be able to withstand even the poured mass heated to 80÷120 degrees.
• The compound mold will last a long time if it is treated before filling with tile mortar special composition"Tiprom 90".

This compound is sold in buckets weighing 1.5 and 7.5 kg.

brick paving slabs

Silicone matrix

The silicone compound can also be two-component, packaged in buckets, and requiring preparation in accordance with the instructions (in general, similar to the process described above). But you can also use ordinary silicone, which is known to everyone as sealant. You need to buy as much of it as you need to make the mold, since after opening the package it immediately begins to set. Therefore, you should open the factory packaging of one-component silicone after the formwork and the original sample are greased and ready for pouring. Regular grease is most often used as a lubricant.

A sample of the future tile is laid with the front side up, also lubricated with grease and filled with silicone. Thickness above top part the source should also be 8÷10 mm.

If a tile made of gypsum is used as a sample, then it must first be treated with several layers of drying oil or varnish.

To distribute the silicone over the formwork, use a spatula or brush, which is dipped in a soap solution prepared in advance.

A thick layer of silicone takes much longer to dry than a compound - this period can be from two weeks to a month, and sometimes more. The duration of the period depends on the thickness and depth of the poured layer. Therefore, it is better to prepare the tile mold in advance, for example, by dedicating winter time so that the matrices are guaranteed to be ready for summer, since it is better to work with cement from which paving slabs will be made in warm time years or at least at positive temperatures.

When the form is ready, it is removed from the formwork and washed well to remove grease. Next, you can start making tiles.

The main parameters of a standard silicone one-component sealant are given in the table:

Main indicators of the material	Normalized values	Test results
Time of formation of the surface film after squeezing the sealant out of the tube (min) no more.	30	5÷25
Viability (h), no more.	8	6÷8
Conditional tensile strength MPa, not less	0.1	0.4÷0.6
Elongation at break (%), not less.	300	400÷600
Flow resistance (mm), no more.	2	0÷1
Water absorption by mass (%) no more.	1	0.35÷0.45
Density (g/cm³), no more.	1200	1100÷1200
Durability, conventional years, no less.	20	20

It should be noted that if the owners have no desire to make matrices on their own, then it can be purchased at specialty store. However, in this case, the paths on a suburban site may not differ at all from those in the neighborhood.

When choosing a ready-made matrix, you should not buy a plastic mold (unless particularly necessary, as will be discussed below). It is better to give preference to polyurethane, silicone or rubber.

Making paving slabs at home

Not every home has special equipment with which you can quickly and efficiently do it. Therefore, further we will consider methods that allow you to make it using improvised means. Of course, you cannot do without special forms, and they can be made according to the instructions presented above or purchased ready-made. Ideally, for high-quality and fast production, it would be good to have a vibrating table. However, as will be shown below, on a small scale it is quite possible to cast tiles without it.

Making square tiles using a plastic mold

Square tiles can be called traditional. It never goes out of fashion, as it gives the paths rigor and neatness. It is especially important to use this tile option to design the path leading to the house from the entrance to the site.

Illustration
	In this case, a plastic mold measuring 300x300 mm and 30 mm thick is used to make the tiles. The relief pattern of this version of the matrix is ​​called “California shagreen”. Plastic molds are convenient because they have sufficient rigidity and do not deform during laying of the solution, but it is more difficult to remove the finished product from them due to the same rigidity. To make the mold last as long as possible, and to make it easier to remove the finished tile from it, it is recommended to treat the matrix with a greasy lubricant before pouring the solution.
	To mix the mortar required for one such tile, you will need coarse sand - 3 kg.
	In addition to sand, you need to prepare cement M-500-D0 - 1 kg, ordinary tap water 0.5 liters, red color powder 70 g, and plasticizer - 25 ml.
	To mix the solution, you will need to prepare a container - it can be a plastic or enamel bucket. It is not recommended to use a galvanized container, as the dye or plasticizer can cause oxidation, as a result of which the color chosen for the tile may change.
	Sand and cement are poured into the prepared container. In this case, the master chose this mixing technology, but it will be easier to mix the mass if the dry mixture is prepared in advance - sand and cement are pre-mixed.
	So, sand and cement are thoroughly mixed using a drill with a mixer attachment.
	The next step is to mix water, dry dye and plasticizer until smooth in a separate container.
	As a result of this mixing, a red liquid should be obtained.
	The finished solution is poured into a dry cement-sand mixture.
	All ingredients are thoroughly mixed using a mixer - this process must be carried out for at least 3-5 minutes.
	After kneading, you should get a fairly thick, viscous, coarse-grained mass. It will acquire the necessary density during the process of laying it out in the mold and compacting it.
	Next, the resulting mixture is poured into a greased form. First, half of the finished mixture is laid out in the matrix.
	The mass must be distributed as evenly as possible over the shape by lifting it and shaking the matrix.
	Then the remaining mixture is laid out and first distributed using a spatula or trowel. When filling the matrix with a solution, it must be carefully compacted, pressing with a trowel. Pay special attention to the corners of the form - they must be well filled.
	Next, the matrix is ​​“shaken” for a long time - this process occurs until the mass is compacted to the maximum and forms a completely flat surface. When shaken, air bubbles will emerge from the solution. It is advisable to carry out this work until the air stops escaping completely. When tiles are produced in large quantities, a special vibrating table is used to compact the fills - it greatly facilitates the work. However, if the molded products are made for only one track, then it will not be profitable to buy or make a vibrating table yourself. The mold is left to harden for 24 hours. This indicator is valid for an air temperature of +20 degrees, and may change upward in cooler weather - this will have to be determined experimentally.
	After the required period of time has passed, the matrix is ​​turned over and the tile is carefully removed from it.
	If necessary, you can press a little on some areas of the bottom of the mold to make the product come away from it more easily.
	The result is a neat, smooth tile, but it cannot be used immediately, as it must completely dry out and gain strength. To do this, the tiles are placed on edge and left for at least three days. And the final set of required strength, with the possibility of applying full load to the laid tiles, will end approximately two weeks after production.

Production of original paving slabs “pine cut” in polyurethane form

The original design of platforms and paths is the laying of round timber on them. However, wood absorbs moisture well and is subject to gradual rotting and damage by various insects. Concrete tiles, imitating a cut of wood, will be an excellent replacement for natural material.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	This one is very original version paving slabs, having a diameter of 300 mm and a thickness of 40 mm, consists of two layers made from mortars of different colors. It is somewhat more difficult to do than a single-color one, since the work will have to be carried out extremely carefully, making sure that the solutions do not mix with each other. This tile is called “pine cut” because it imitates the cut round timber of a tree trunk. The inner part has a beige color and a relief of annual rings, while the outer frame repeats the pattern of roughened pine bark.
	To manufacture such products, a flexible polyurethane mold is used, which can be made independently using the technology described in the article above. Since the polyurethane matrix does not have proper rigidity, it must be installed on a perfectly flat surface. For a stand under it it is usually used plywood sheet, which will later help to shake the solution after filling the form. Shaking a flexible matrix filled with a rather heavy solution will be extremely difficult.
	To get a core with “annual rings”, one such tile will require white cement 100÷150 g, medium sand - 300÷350 g, yellow or beige color - 50 g, plasticizer 20÷25 ml. and 200÷250 ml. water.
	Water, colorant and plasticizer are combined in one container and mixed well.
	Next, the resulting solution is poured into a mixture of white cement and sand. All ingredients are mixed well until smooth. If necessary, you can add a small amount of water.
	The result should be about 0.5 liters of the finished mixture.
	The mass is laid out in the middle of the mold, previously coated with wax lubricant. It may seem that there is too little of it, but this is a deceptive impression, since when the mixture is distributed, it will fill all the space intended for it. The mass is distributed only over the inner part of the form, which imitates the core of a round timber with annual rings. This layer should have a thickness equal to or slightly less than the height of the side separating the middle part of the “round timber” from the improvised “bark”.
	The solution should be thick enough. Therefore, it is first distributed using a spatula, gently pressing it to the bottom of the mold. The mixture cannot be diluted, since the mass that will be laid on top of it can mix with the more liquid one below, and spoil the entire intended effect of the tile.
	Since there is not much mixture in the matrix, after the initial distribution the mold is moved back and forth across the table surface and gently shaken.
	Next, the mass is again distributed with a spatula, and it is pressed tightly onto the mold.
	After this, the matrix with the mixture is shaken again until the mass fills all the space allocated for it. The result should be an even, smooth pancake when viewed from above.
	The next step is to prepare a solution for filling the frame of the round timber core with “bark”. For the mixture intended to form this layer, and indeed the entire main part of the tile, you need to prepare gray cement M-500-D0 - 1 kg, water 0.5 l, plasticizer - 35 g, brown color 60÷70 g, coarse sand 3.5÷4 kg.
	Sand and cement are mixed well with a mixer. Then, a solution is prepared separately from water, dye and plasticizer.
	Half of the solution is added to the mixture and mixed with the same mixer. During mixing, part or all of the remaining solution is added. The mass should be quite thick and crumbly.
	Using a trowel, the mixture is laid out in the matrix. First, the edges of the form are filled with it, which will imitate the bark of a tree.
	Then, the mixture is laid out over the entire surface of the container. When the entire composition is laid out, it forms a slide, which must be carefully distributed with a trowel. The form needs to be shaken a little. Since it is quite plastic, a sheet of plywood laid under it will come to the rescue; one of its edges is lifted and shaken, that is, vibrating movements are made.
	Then, the mixture is compacted again with a trowel, continuing to distribute it.
	The mold filled with the mixture continues to be subjected to vibration until its surface of the solution becomes even and smooth. It should fill the entire relief pattern on the side walls of the matrix. The finished mixture is left in the mold for a day to harden.
	After 24 hours, the matrix is ​​carefully turned over.
	Then, the mold is carefully removed from the tile. A polyurethane or silicone matrix has an advantage over a plastic one in that it is much easier to remove it from the finished product, and the risk of damaging it is not so high.
	The finished tile must dry completely and gain strength; this will require at least 2-3 days. When drying, the product will acquire a lighter shade, so if you want to get a rich color, you can add more color. However, it must be taken into account that too much dye makes the solution less durable.
	If you decide to make a mold for such tiles yourself, then as a basis you need to take natural round timber from any wood you like in terms of texture, with a well-defined structure of coarsened bark. Before pouring silicone or compound during the manufacturing process of the matrix, it is necessary to process the sample, deepening the textured pattern, otherwise the desired effect may not be obtained. Pay attention to the groove between the bark and the wood itself - it also needs to be deepened - as a result, a small edge will appear on the matrix, which helps to carry out high-quality layer-by-layer filling. After laying the tiles, this thin gap will quickly fill with soil and become invisible. You can carefully fill it yourself with a grout or regular cement composition.

Paving slabs made “on site” using a stencil

Another affordable way To arrange garden paths is to fill them with concrete mortar using a polypropylene stencil. With this convenient device It is quite possible to quickly improve not only narrow paths, but also entire areas.

This instruction can help you figure out how to properly prepare the space for paths and how to use a stencil. In addition, attention will be paid to how the concrete surface can be decorated.

cobweb paving slabs

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	For such work, you will need to prepare the following tools: - building level; - large and small spatula; - trowel; - bayonet and shovel; - pump sprayer; - a container for mixing the solution or a concrete mixer, - a wheelbarrow is desirable to deliver the mixture to the pouring site. After familiarization with the work process, each master can add tools to the list that are convenient for him, or remove unnecessary ones from the presented list.
	Materials you need to prepare: - plastic mold for tiles; - cement M-500; - coarse sand; - dye, if you plan to make the tile multi-colored; - black polyethylene for laying on the ground; - slag or fine crushed stone. At the same time, it must be taken into account that from one 50 kg bag of cement you can get 6 ÷ 7 slabs measuring 600 × 600 mm and 60 mm thick. This list can be supplemented with curbs, since on an unfenced area the path will not last long - the edges will begin to collapse.
	A few words need to be said about the stencil itself. The design of the form is well thought out - its side walls are wider than the middle ones that separate the tiles. Thanks to this arrangement, after concrete is poured into it and it gains strength, not individual stones are formed, but a solid slab, separated by gaps in the upper part by only ⅔ of the total thickness. Besides this? the form should have two technological holes in which handles are attached, which will help you easily remove the stencil from the set concrete.
	In order for the path to serve for a long time and not be overgrown with grass, it is necessary to prepare a place for filling it. To do this, first of all, remove the fertile layer soil, approximately 100÷120 mm deep. Then, the soil is compacted, and it is advisable to lay a black plastic film on top of it, which will prevent the sprouting grass from breaking through. Next, there is a layer of cement-gravel, cement-sand mixture, just sand or slag 50 mm thick. Some save on bedding and make it only 30 mm thick, but this will not be enough. If done conscientiously, then 50 mm is the optimal thickness. This layer is moistened and compacted again.
	If a narrow path is being laid, it is recommended to immediately install curbs. If you plan to fence the path with curb stones, then they can be installed after the path is formed.
	Next, a stencil is placed on the prepared area, treated from the inside with machine oil using a brush. In order to save mortar, as well as increase the strength of the created slab and its unique reinforcement, coarse crushed stone can be laid in the internal space of the mold.
	The next step is to mix the cement mortar. It can be made in a concrete mixer or in a container of suitable size. The concrete mixture should be made as follows: for 1 kg of cement and 3 kg of coarse sand, 35 g. plasticizer and, if desired, a dye is added.
	If 5-6 forms are poured at once, then it is better, of course, to prepare the solution in a concrete mixer. In this case, it is mixed in the following proportions: for 50 kg of cement you need to prepare 250 grams. plasticizer-accelerator, 9 buckets of fine crushed stone, 6 buckets of clean river sand. Add enough water to achieve the desired consistency of the mixture. A concrete mixer designed for 0.3 cubic meters can handle this volume of solution. m. To adjust the composition for a smaller concrete mixer, you need to proportionally reduce the component composition. If colored tiles are being made, then it is permissible to add color in an amount of 2 to 8% of the amount of cement, depending on how light or dark the paving is supposed to be.
	The prepared solution is filled into the laid form. It is very important that the mixture completely fills the entire stencil space. Particular attention must be paid to filling the corners.
	The solution is spread with a trowel. Thanks to its pointed blade, the mass will be easy to place in the corners under the stencil bridges. It is better to add more mixture than required than not to add it, since the excess can be easily removed with a trowel.
	The solution is leveled along the upper bridges of the stencil using a wide spatula. Excess mixture is removed with a trowel. It is recommended to level the surfaces of future tiles to perfect smoothness, since their wear resistance and durability will depend on this.
	After waiting 20-30 minutes for the solution to set, the stencil is removed from the tile by grasping the handles screwed into the technological holes. This must be done extremely carefully and strictly vertically, since the concrete has not yet hardened completely, and there is a high probability of damaging one of the corners of the tile if you move awkwardly.
	The result should be a concrete slab.
	The form removed from the previous slab is placed next to it, maintaining a gap of approximately 10 mm. Then, the stencil is checked with a building level for evenness, and if necessary, sand bedding or a support made of flat stone or ceramic tiles is made in one or two corners.
	Next, the process is repeated, that is, crushed stone is placed in the form, then it is filled with a solution, which is leveled, and so on, until the entire planned path (site) is closed.
	If the path is framed by borders already installed along it, then after the coating is completely ready, the gaps between the slabs and borders are also filled with mortar. In addition, the gaps formed between the tiles can also be filled with concrete mortar, covered with sand or soil with seeds of special lawn grass, which rises only 30-50 mm.
	The spaces between the slabs can also be left empty. However, it must be taken into account that over time they will become clogged with soil, which may contain weed seeds, which can subsequently clog the entire path and even contribute to the destruction of the slabs.
	If desired, during the manufacturing process of such a coating it can be decorated with broken ceramic tiles. It is pressed into the solution that has just been poured into the stencil, and then the surface is leveled again with a spatula.
	If you want to add garden plot colorfulness, then the tiles can be made multi-colored by filling the stencil cells with solutions to which different colors have been added. This process will take more time and effort, but a site with such interesting paths will always lift your spirits. Using several dyes, it is advisable to prepare two or three forms for filling. This way the work will be more efficient, since you can fill areas in several stencils at once with a solution of the same color.

When starting work on arranging paths in this way, you must definitely ask about the weather forecast for the coming days, otherwise all the work may go down the drain if it suddenly rains heavily on the first night after the formation of the paths.

The stencil will greatly facilitate the work of arranging the site. Although this form is quite expensive, having only two or three similar matrices, you can quickly lay paths and improve the areas of the entire territory without the involvement of third-party craftsmen.

Another important point. When purchasing ready-made tiles, you should remember that laying them correctly is not so easy. Therefore, if you can’t do the paving yourself, you will have to invite specialists and pay them for the work an amount that will be at least equal to the cost of the tiles themselves.

The stencil will not allow you to make serious mistakes. Even without any experience in this field, any site owner will be able to independently make high-quality, neat surfaces. Of course, if all technological recommendations are followed, increased care is shown, and the novice master himself mobilizes all his abilities and skills.

Video: the work of a master - making paving slabs to look like natural wood

Concrete tiles for paths and platforms are used everywhere today. However, its price does not always correspond to quality. Purchased specimens often cannot withstand repeated freezing cycles and crack after 2-3 years. To provide yourself with high-quality paving stones, you need to learn how to make paving slabs with your own hands. The process does not require the purchase of expensive equipment and materials. The main thing is to understand the production technology, choose the shape and mix the “correct” solution.

The technology for making paving slabs is quite simple. However, there are many nuances that must be taken into account when planning to organize production process.

Covering the area with paving slabs

Vibrocasting or vibrocompression: choice of method

The process of creating paving slabs has two main directions: vibration pressing and vibration casting. Technologically, they have some differences, which affects the characteristics of the finished product.

The first method involves the use of expensive equipment - a vibration press and a heat chamber. The solution with a small amount of water is fed into the mold, compacted, and subjected to pressure and vibration. After this, the workpieces enter the drying chamber. At elevated temperatures and high humidity, the slabs gain strength sufficient for installation in areas with intense load.

Vibratory casting technology involves compacting the working mixture under vibration impact– the solution is evenly distributed over the mold and compacted. The filled molds are moved to drying racks, and the finished tiles are removed two days later.

Vibropressing of paving slabs

Making paving slabs at home is only possible using the vibration casting method. For work, you can use inexpensive tools and equipment, and make a vibrating table with your own hands.

The production cycle consists of the following stages:

1. Preparing molds.
2. Mixing the concrete mixture.
3. Forming on a vibrating table.
4. Holding and drying in molds takes about two days.
5. Stripping tiles.

Important! Tiles made using “vibration technology” are optimally suited for creating garden paths and paths. It is not suitable for a parking lot, since it is inferior in strength characteristics to pressed products.

Homemade vibrocast paving stones

Equipment and tools for organizing the process

The feasibility of purchasing this or that equipment depends on the expected scale of production of paving slabs at home. However, for work you will need:

1. Forms. Construction market offers a wide selection of molds for home and mass production of paving stones. The material of the mold determines the convenience and durability of its use:
   • silicone models – creation of complex structural surfaces, the form will withstand 50 cycles;
   • plastic - simplicity of ornament, strength and durability - designed for 800 production cycles;
   • polyurethane molds – hold the “geometry” of the tile well, service life – 100 cycles.

1. Rack and drying shed. The place for “setting” the concrete must meet a number of requirements:
   • horizontal racks - distortions of the base of the forms are unacceptable;
   • location of the site in the shade - exposure to sunlight can lead to cracking finished products;
   • the presence of a canopy to protect from rain.

Important! The minimum permissible temperature for natural drying of paving slabs is +10°C.

Variety of shapes for tile production

To work, you will need additional equipment: a bucket, a shovel, a level and rubber gloves.

Instructions for creating tile molds

At home, you can create a mold for paving slabs with your own hands from wood, plastic, plaster or improvised materials.

Option 1. Making a wooden mold from boards and plywood:

1. Cut two parts from the board, the length of which is 3 cm higher than the edges of the tile itself, and the height is 2 cm higher.
2. Two more parts must exactly match the dimensions of the tile.
3. Fasten the boards with iron corners - you need to screw in screws, which can be easily removed after the concrete has hardened.

Advice. When pouring the solution into wooden mold It is advisable to lay the reinforcing mesh in the middle of the tile thickness.

Wooden removable molds

Option 2. The easiest way to create a mold is to cut off the bottom of a 5-liter plastic bottle.

The height will determine the thickness of the paving slabs. In addition, unnecessary plastic containers and packaging are suitable as simple forms. If you place a patterned mesh or leaf on the bottom before pouring, the front side will acquire a relief surface.

Plastic molds for paving slabs

Option 3. Creating a template from plaster:

1. Prepare a gypsum mixture and an approximate cladding element, for example, textured ceramic tiles with a protruding pattern.
2. Make formwork from wood according to the shape of the workpiece and insert tiles into it.
3. Treat the template with fat - this will prevent the plaster from sticking.
4. Dilute the gypsum with water, adding a little plasticizer.
5. Fill the mold with the resulting mass.
6. After a day, remove the formwork and remove the tiles.

Homemade plaster template for tiles

The disadvantage of a plaster template is its fragility. If hit or dropped, there is a high probability that the form will break.

Option 4. Having skills to work on welding machine, we can do it metal structure a simple form made from pieces of reinforcement or slats. Cut strips of metal 5 cm wide according to the dimensions of the future tile and weld them together. For ease of use, provide handles.

Hexagonal metal shape

High-quality mortar is the basis for the durability of slabs

The composition of the mortar for paving slabs includes:

• cement;
• large and small filler;
• dye;
• plasticizer;
• fiberglass;
• water.

High-quality cement does not contain lumps

The components are combined in strict dosages, and certain requirements are imposed on each component.

The technology for manufacturing paving slabs at home or in production involves the use of Portland cement grade M 500 (minimum M 400). An important condition is the quality and “freshness” of the cement. When purchasing, you need to check the production date (every month the composition loses 5% of its properties), the absence of lumps and flowability.

Advice. A quick test will help determine the quality of cement. On alkaline mineral water Knead the cement dough and roll it out into a thin disk. Good cement will dry in a few minutes. If it took about an hour to dry, and the disc became covered with cracks, then the composition was supplemented with foreign impurities and a low-quality binder.

Sand and crushed stone - solution fillers

Clean granite screenings, pebbles or slag are used as coarse fillers. Fine filler – quarry or river sand without clay or impurities. If, after being compressed in a fist, the sand retains the shape of a lump, this indicates a high content of clay components.

Selecting a plasticizer for making the mixture

The plasticizer for paving slabs, due to its high dispersibility, regulates the viscosity of the mixture, increasing the strength, wear resistance and moisture resistance of the product. Experts recommend adding components of the following brands to the solution: Plastimix F, Master Silk, “Component”. “Superplasticizer S-3” has proven itself to be excellent.

Fiber fiber is used to reinforce concrete mortar. Micronix 12 mm polypropylene fiber, crushed glass fiber or MicronixBazalt 12 mm basalt fiber are suitable.

Important! The length of the fiber fiber should not exceed the size of the coarse aggregate in the concrete mixture.

Types of fiber fiber used

Optimal proportions mortar for paving slabs are indicated in the table.

The ratio of components in the solution

The nuances of tinting homemade paving stones

Mineral and organic pigments are selected for coloring tiles. Artificial colors based on minerals have high coloring ability, resistance to chemicals and temperature changes. Natural pigments allow you to achieve muted natural shades.

Before making paving slabs, you need to decide on the method of tinting them:

• coloring on the finished product;
• adding dye to the raw mass.

Tinting paving slabs

The first method is quite labor-intensive, since high-quality painting takes a lot of time. To speed up the process, you can use a spray gun, but in this case it is difficult to achieve uniform coloring.

The second method is more expensive. Dry dyes that provide a water-repellent coating are expensive, and to achieve a durable and rich color you will need to add about 7% of the concrete weight. Therefore, many craftsmen and manufacturers use the two-layer pouring method.

The prepared form is half filled with colored concrete, and the top is filled with colorless concrete. It is important that the interval between fills is no more than 20 minutes. In addition to saving, this method increases the strength characteristics of paving stones.

Step-by-step production of tiles using vibration shrinkage method

We will analyze step by step how to make paving slabs at home using vibration casting technology. To make paving stones, you will need to build a simple vibrating table.

Manufacturing diagram of a vibrating table

Construction of a vibration table from improvised means

The vibrating table has a design that is easy to manufacture and maintain.

To create it you will need following materials:

• sheet steel 5-10 mm thick - under the tabletop;
• metal corner 5*5 cm - for creating edges on the table;
• channel with holes for fixing the motor;
• pipes 4*4 cm, thickness 2 mm – support posts;
• pipes 4*2 cm - for manufacturing top bars;
• metal plates – forming the sole of the supports;
• springs that provide vibration;
• bolts and washers for fixing the engine;
• electric motor (IV-99E, IV-98E) with a power of 0.5-0.9 kW;
• electrical cable, switch, socket.

Manufacturing sequence:

Preparing the mold and mixing the solution

Before filling, the form must be lubricated with a special emulsion (“Lirossin”, “Emulsol”) or use their substitutes:

• soap solution;
• vegetable oil;
• motor oil.

Advice. It is undesirable to lubricate the mold with saline solution - it leaves stains on the surface of the product, and the template itself quickly deteriorates.

The solution is mixed in a certain sequence in compliance with temporary recommendations:

1. First, sand, plasticizer and dye are mixed. Kneading time – 30-40 seconds.
2. Crushed stone and cement are added to the dry mixture. With this composition, the concrete mixer works for another minute.
3. Then water is gradually introduced until a fairly dense consistency is obtained.
4. The final stage is adding fiber fiber and kneading again for one minute.

Adding mortar components to a concrete mixer

The tile mixture, made by yourself, should not flow down the trowel, but at the same time easily fill the mold.

Vibratory casting and drying of paving slabs

Paving stone molding technology:

1. Place the greased molds on a vibrating table and pour the solution into them.
2. Turn on vibration mode for 5 minutes.
3. When a white film appears on the surface of the mixture, turn off the engine. Excessive shaking may cause the solution to separate.
4. Place the blanks on racks, cover with plastic wrap and leave for 2-3 days. Be sure to check the evenness of the surface of the racks. If the tiles dry on a slope, they will not be able to be laid evenly on the path.

Stripping homemade paving slabs

Stripping the finished product and cleaning the molds

Once the concrete has set, the tiles can be removed from the mold. To facilitate removal, the mold with filling is lowered into a container with water heated to 60°-70°C. After five minutes, the finished product is knocked out with a rubber hammer onto a soft surface - you can spread out an old blanket.

The “raw” tiles are dried on the same racks for another 7 days, then they are folded into pallets and gain their final hardness after a month. Only after this the material is ready for lining the paths.

Fill the used molds with a salty solution (30 grams per 1 liter of water table salt), clean, rinse and set to dry.

Paving slabs with river pebbles

Decorative tiles with stone: master class

On a suburban area, paving stones look beautiful landscape style using river stones. Simple technology making paving slabs with your own hands, available composition mixtures and natural materials allow you to implement the idea in your dacha.

1. When the composition is ready, press the stones into the solution.
2. Cover the molds with cellophane and leave to dry for four days. Water the preparations with water twice a day.
3. When the tiles begin to move away from the formwork, the product can be removed and dried without a mold.

Creating a composition and compacting stones

Making paving slabs with your own hands is a fascinating process. Following step-by-step instructions, you will be able to create an original and quality product, designed for long-term use in the yard or garden. If you are not sure of success, you should study the topic more deeply by consulting with experts.

Nowadays it has become very fashionable to lay out paths and rest areas with paving slabs, however, not everyone is able to purchase ready-made material due to its high cost. It is quite possible to make this finishing material yourself. In addition, it is possible to make tiles in accordance with your personal requests and needs.

Making paving slabs with your own hands has many advantages, since the finished product: has original design, can be of absolutely any color, quite durable and hardy. The production of sidewalk tiles is considered a rather complex and labor-intensive process, especially considering the lack of experience in its production. In addition to preparing forms and tools, it is important to correctly calculate the proportions of the solution for pouring.

There are only two types of manufacturing of these products, namely, by vibration pressing and vibration casting.

The production of tiles using the vibration pressing method involves the use of a thick cement mixture with the addition of a small amount of water. Making tiles by vibrocompression involves preparing the mixture in a vibropress. The vibration casting method is most suitable for making tiles at home. To produce tiles using this method, you will need a concrete mixer, a vibrating table and casting molds.

Paving slabs are considered simply ideal option for arranging a summer house and country house. Its affordable cost and ease of installation make this material ideal for creating beautiful and comfortable walking paths. This coating has long been considered one of the most beautiful and durable. However, due to the high cost of finished tiles, not many people decide to purchase them. To improve your summer cottage or country house, you can make tiles yourself. To make tiles yourself, you first need to prepare the mixture, observing all the required proportions. The recipe for the mixture is quite simple, however, you definitely need to know what components to add and what the proportions should be.

To make the mixture you need to take:

• Binding components;
• Water;
• Fillers;
• Special additives;
• Dye.

Cement is used as binding components. The grade of cement is selected depending on the degree of compressive strength of the component. It is best that the cement grade is M500. The filler can be sand and crushed stone, or just clean sand can be used.

A plasticizer or dispersant is used as special additives. These mineral additives must be used, as they increase frost resistance and give the products greater strength. In addition, they increase the elasticity of the finished tile and give its surface a beautiful glossy shine.

When producing tiles, you definitely need a dye, since when used correctly, the durability and attractiveness of the finished product increases. As a percentage, the amount of dyes used should be no more than 4-5% of total mass concrete mixture.

It is desirable for the dyes used to be lightfast, resistant to adverse weather conditions, and also insoluble in water. When preparing a concrete mixture, be sure to distribute the dye evenly. The recipe for preparing a mixture for tiles varies depending on the requirements for the resulting product.

Optimal composition of mortar for paving slabs

When making tiles yourself, it is important not only to make the product correctly, but also to determine the composition of the solution, which is often quite difficult to do. When preparing the solution, you need to take into account such factors as the type of raw materials used, as well as the conditions for pouring and drying the products. Before you start making tiles, you need to prepare the ingredients, a vibrating table with a perfectly flat surface and shapes.

Sand-cement mixture is made from such components as:

• Cement grade M500 is white;
• Fine river sand;
• Granite crushed stone fraction 3-5 mm or screenings;
• Water;
• Liquid dye;
• Plasticizer;
• Dispersant.

The technology for preparing the mixture is quite simple. Initially, you need to mix the sand well with cement and the prepared plasticizer, and then add crushed stone, which, if desired, can be replaced with screenings. At the very end, you need to pour in liquid in small portions. The consistency of the resulting solution should be strong enough so that it easily adheres to the trowel, however, the mixture should not crumble or crack when lightly tapped on the form. The consumption of components largely depends on the required characteristics of the finished product, which is why it is calculated separately. Important! If all the required conditions are met, you can obtain high-quality paving slabs that will be highly durable and durable.

How to make paving slabs at home

The most popular element for paving paths in a country house or on summer cottage, central squares and city streets are considered to be paving slabs or figured paving elements.

The main advantages of FEM are considered:

• Ease of manufacture;
• Attractive appearance;
• Easy installation.

The tile manufacturing technology means that after preparing the mixture, it needs to be poured into molds located on a vibrating table. Before pouring the mixture, the molds must be lubricated with an oil product. The vibration process lasts only a few minutes and its duration depends on the thickness of the tile.

Excess concrete needs to be removed with a spatula, and if the mixture sinks too much in the molds, then you need to add concrete mortar and continue vibration.

The surface of the solution is then smoothed, and then the filled forms are transferred to pallets. Depending on the air temperature and size, the tiles need to be dried for 2 to 4 days in a special drying chamber. In this case, it is necessary to maintain a certain air humidity and temperature. After drying, the molds are placed in an evaporation bath. When carrying out heat-steam treatment, it is necessary to set soft hardening modes and the temperature should not exceed 70 o C. The removal of finished products is carried out on a special table or manually. It is worth remembering that maximum strength occurs only after 28 days.

DIY plasticizer for paving slabs

Now there are many options for paving slabs, thanks to the use of special shapes in their manufacture and dyes of different colors. Many people prefer to make tiles themselves, but you need to know how many components to take when producing them. In addition to the main components, plasticizers are also used.

These substances help:

• Improve the quality of manufactured products;
• Simplify the process of forming tiles;
• Improve the appearance of the finished product.

When producing tiles, the plasticizer must be prepared in advance. To do this, dry plasticizer is poured into water heated to 40 o C in a 1:2 ratio. Then the mixture must be mixed for 15 minutes using a mixer attachment. When the solution is ready, it needs to be left for some time. It is best to prepare the plasticizer in the evening, and in the morning you only need to stir it for 15 minutes.

Making paving slabs (video)

To make the product durable and resistant to negative atmospheric conditions, it is imperative to comply with all the required conditions for manufacturing tiles and use only high-quality materials.