How to drill hardened steel at home. Adding a bidet function to a compact toilet How to drill a hole in thick silicone

To improve the basic characteristics of the metal, it is often hardened. This technology involves increasing the hardness of the product due to strong heating of the metal and its rapid cooling. In some cases, after heat treatment you have to do some drilling. By increasing this characteristic, drilling hardened metal becomes more difficult. Let's take a closer look at all the features of drilling hardened steel.

Drilling a hole in hardened steel

The widespread question of how to drill through hardened steel can be associated with the fact that when using conventional technology, the tool quickly becomes dull and becomes unusable. That is why you need to pay attention to the features of drilling hardened alloy. Among the features of the technology, we note the following points:

It is necessary to properly prepare the hardened workpiece.
In some cases, a special tool is required.
Coolant is being used.

If necessary, you can make a drill for hardened steel with your own hands, which requires certain equipment and skills. However, in most cases, a purchased version is used, since it will cope better with the task when cutting hardened steel.

Nuances when drilling

The technology in question has a fairly large number of features that need to be taken into account. Drilling of hardened metal is carried out taking into account the following points:

Before carrying out work, pay attention to the hardness of the surface. This parameter is used to select the most suitable drill. Hardness can be determined using a variety of technologies.
During drilling, a large amount of heat is generated. This is why rapid wear of the cutting edge occurs. In this regard, in many cases, cooling liquid is supplied to the cutting zone.
When cutting difficult-to-cut material, it is necessary to sharpen the cutting edge from time to time. For this purpose the usual sharpening machine or a special tool. Only diamond-coated wheels are suitable as an abrasive.

There are a variety of methods for cutting hardened steel. Some of them significantly simplify the processing. Only by taking into account all the nuances can the quality of the resulting hole be improved.

Useful drilling techniques

For working with hardened steel, the most various technologies. The most common technologies are characterized by the following features:

Surface treatment with acid. This technology is characterized by long-term use, since it takes quite a lot of time to reduce the surface hardness. Sulfuric, perchloric or other acid can be used for etching. The procedure involves creating a lip that will contain the substance used in the cutting zone. After prolonged exposure, the metal becomes softer, and it will be possible to drill using the conventional version.
Can be used welding machine to achieve the set goal. When exposed high temperature the metal becomes softer, which greatly simplifies the procedure.
Most often used special drill. There are versions on sale that can be used for processing hardened steel. In their manufacture, metal with increased resistance to wear and high temperatures is used. However, the complexity of manufacturing and some other points determine that the cost of a special tool is quite high.

In addition, to achieve this goal, a punch is often purchased. It can be used to make a small hole, which will simplify further drilling.

Use of lubricants

When drilling through hardened steel, serious friction occurs. That is why it is recommended to purchase and use various lubricants. Among the features of this processing method, we note the following points:

First, the drilling area is processed. A small amount of lubricant is applied to the surface where the hole will be located.
Oil is added to cutting edge. To process hardened steel, a small amount of the substance is required, but it must be added from time to time, since it scatters when the tool rotates.
During work, it is recommended to take breaks to cool the cutting surface and the surface being processed.

Special oil not only simplifies drilling, but also increases the service life of the tool used.

This is because oil can reduce the temperature of the cutting edge.

Drill selection

Twist drills, which are represented by a vertical rod with two grooves, have become quite widespread. Due to the specific arrangement of the grooves, a cutting edge is formed. Among the features of the choice, we note the following points:

The pobedite drill bit has become quite widespread. It can be used to work with various hardened alloys. However, a surface with too high hardness cannot be processed with such a tool.
The choice is also made based on diameter. It is worth considering that getting a hole large diameter quite difficult. The larger diameter version is much more expensive due to the use of a large amount of material in its manufacture.
Attention is also paid to the sharpening angle, the purpose of the product and the type of material used in manufacturing. For example, cobalt versions are characterized by higher resistance to high temperatures.
It is recommended to pay attention exclusively to products famous manufacturers. This is due to the fact that Chinese versions are manufactured using low-quality materials. However, such an offer is much cheaper and can be used for short-term or one-time work.
When choosing a drill, you can be guided by the markings. It can be used to determine which materials were used in production. The diameter of the hole that can be obtained when using the tool is also indicated.

IN specialty store you can find almost everything you need to carry out the work. However, enough high cost products and some other points determine that some decide to make a drill themselves from scrap materials. Similar work can be done if you have the required tools.

Making a homemade drill

If necessary, a drill can be made from hardened steel. Among the main recommendations for carrying out such work, we note:

Rods are selected that are made from tungsten and cobalt alloys. People call this metal victorious. Compared to with a regular drill This design option is characterized by increased wear resistance.
To process the workpiece, you need to secure it in a small vice. Otherwise, the work will be quite difficult.
To sharpen such a surface, a diamond stone is required. The usual one will not withstand long-term work.
The end surface is sharpened to create a surface that resembles a flat-head screwdriver. The cutting edges are then sharpened to produce a sharp tip.

In order to reduce the degree of surface machinability, oil is added. This ensures long-term processing due to reduced friction force and lower temperature.

In conclusion, we note that processing of hardened steel should be carried out exclusively when using special tools. The work requires a drilling machine, since a manual one will not allow you to get the required hole.

§ 10. DRILLING AND BURNING Plugs

Holes in plugs are most often made to allow glass tubes to pass through. You should not make holes by piercing with an awl, as the cork will crumble and the hole will be extremely uneven and unsuitable for tightly holding the tube.

Rice. 237. Correctly and incorrectly drilled hole stia. Burning the cork(E).Hole expansion(F).

When starting drilling, you should make sure that the drills are sharpened; Only then will the hole come out straight. Drilling is done after fitting the plug to the neck. The diameter of the drill should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the tube. The cork should be held in your hand, but not rested on the table (Fig. 236, E). It is advisable to place a second, auxiliary plug between the drilled plug and the palm A (Fig. 236, D). Before drilling, wet the drill bits in water. Drilling begins by holding the drill as shown in Figure 236, A. Then place your hand on the handle (Fig. 236, IN) and continue drilling, making sure that the center lines of the drill and the plug coincide. When two or three holes are drilled, their axes should be parallel to each other (Fig. 237, B and C). Do not press the drill too hard, as this will cause the surface of the hole to become uneven.

The most critical moment is the last moment of drilling, when the drill is close to exiting. If you do not place an auxiliary plug and press hard on the drill, the plug at the point where the drill exits will crumble (Fig. 237, D).

After drilling, the plug should be removed from the drill immediately. b, pushing it out with a metal rod included in the drill kit (Fig. 236, F). Particular care must be taken when drilling two, and even more so three holes in one plug: it is important not to crumble the jumpers between them (Fig. 237, IN, WITH).

The cork is burned using the hot end of a steel rod (Fig. 237, E). The charred layer can be removed from the hole using a thin round file.

com. The end of the glass tube inserted into the hole should be melted, which will facilitate this operation. The inserted tube must be rotated, acting at the same time in the longitudinal direction (Fig. 234). It is helpful to moisten the tube with water for relief. You should pay attention to grip the tube correctly to avoid breaking it and injuring your hand (Fig. 234).

Large holes in the cork can be cut with a sharp round chisel and then leveled by filing with a round file (Fig. 237,F).

§11. DRILLING RUBBER PLUGS

Rubber plugs are more difficult to drill than cork plugs. Therefore, when drilling rubber plugs, it is necessary to use particularly sharply sharpened drills and, in addition, moisten their working ends several times with thick soap solution(rub on a wet bar of soap and moisten with glycerin).

Do not press the drills too hard, especially at the end of the process, otherwise the hole will come out conical. If, when removing the drill for the next lubrication, a column of rubber breaks and remains inside the drill, then it must be pushed out before further drilling.

Attempts to make (pierce) a hole in the rubber stopper with an awl will be unsuccessful. Burning a hole with a hot metal rod is only applicable for thin layers rubber. Burning is accompanied by the release of fumes with an unpleasant odor.

Glass tubes are inserted into the holes made in the same way as into cortical ones (Fig. 234). Wetting with water or soapy water makes this operation easier.

§ 12. CUTTING RUBBER SHEET

Rubber tubes and sheet rubber can be cut with a sharp knife or ordinary sharp scissors. Rubber threads and tapes can be cut from rubber sheets or rubber tubes cut lengthwise and flattened. It is necessary to cut with the sharpest knife or razor. In this case, you need to use a metal ruler as a guide.

§ 13. MAKING HOLES IN RUBBER

Large holes in sheet rubber can be cut with scissors or a sharp knife. To make small holes, you should use well-sharpened plug drills (in this case, sheet rubber is spread on a sheet of plywood). Very small holes in sheet rubber and in the walls of rubber tubes can be burned with a hot awl (Fig. 238).

Rice. 238. Melting holes in a rubber tube.

In this case, the edges of the hole will be sticky; To eliminate stickiness, they should be sprinkled with talcum powder.

§ 14. CONNECTION OF RUBBER TUBES

Rubber tubes of the same diameter are connected using a short metal or glass tube

Rice. 2^9. Putting a rubber tube on a glass one.

Rice. 240. Glass connecting piece (A AndIN).Securing the rubber tube to the glass(CM).

(Fig. 239, IN). The diameter of this tube is taken to be slightly larger than the lumen diameter of the rubber tubes. The ends of the glass connecting tube must be rounded, which is achieved by melting them (Chapter 12, § 9). In Figure 239,A shows how to put a rubber tube on a glass one.

To prevent rubber tubes from jumping off the glass, they should be tied with wire or strong thread (Fig. 240,WITH -G). Such tying is absolutely necessary in installations with mercury and in cases where gas or water under pressure is channeled through tubes. Wrapping the end of the rubber tube, as shown in Figure 239, Cu £>, increases the strength of the connection.

If the diameter of the connecting tube is smaller than the diameter of the rubber tube, then the required seal is achieved by us*

by placing a strip of paper coated with rubber glue on the end of the connecting tube (Fig. 240, L) and tying the connection with wire (Fig. 240, M).

Connecting glass tubes equipped with swellings at the ends are available for sale (Fig. 240, L and Z). A rubber tube placed on such a connecting tube usually does not require garter (Fig. 240, TO) To connect rubber tubes of various diameters, connecting conical tubes (couplings) with swellings of various diameters are commercially available (Fig. 240, A and B).

To make rubber tubes easier to put on glass or metal connecting tubes, it is useful to moisten their ends with water.

Modern industry produces many different types of rubber used in the most unexpected industries. Quite simply and quickly you can find the required rubber gaskets or the required rubber blank at the nearest market. However, if you still need to make a rubber product with your own hands, then you will need a couple of simple tips on how to simply and accurately cut the rubber.

How to cut rubber with a knife:

Rubber can be quite diverse in its properties, ranging from a very elastic and fairly pliable material to elastic, durable rubber plates. Rubber can be used in a wide variety of ways, for example, cutting a suitable size water seal, a heel for boots, or a non-slip stand under a glass surface. Many are cut from car tires various kinds of animals, swings, or make interior items. Can be done flower beds from car tires, but for this you need to know how and with what to cut a car tire.

The secret is very simple, in order to carefully and easily cut a piece of rubber, you will need a sharp knife, of course. and ordinary water.

A piece of elastic rubber, a sharp knife and water.

To start, you need to mark the cut line (for me, simply setting the knife blade straight was enough).

We begin to cut the rubber with a knife.

Cutting thick rubber with a knife becomes quite difficult as the blade goes deeper into the thickness. The rubber begins to become viscous, and if you overdo it, the rubber may even melt. To prevent this from happening, and for the knife to pass through the rubber like clockwork, it must be moistened with water (not oil, in no case should it be moistened with oil).

We wet the rubber with water and cut it with a knife.

Rubber becomes slippery when wet, and the knife blade will not get stuck and melt the rubber, thereby you will get an even and high-quality cut without much effort.

A rubber block cut using water.

How to make a round hole in rubber:

Sometimes there is a need to cut rubber circles, for example, for non-slip legs under a stool, heels, or for gaskets between two glasses. In order to cut evenly shaped rubber mugs, you need to select metal pipe suitable diameter, you will also need a piston suitable for the diameter of the tube.

A – metal tube, B – piston

You need to use a sharpener or a file to sharpen the edge of the iron tube.

Sharpened iron tube

After you have sharpened the tube, you need to insert it into the drill chuck, moisten the rubber with water and simply start drilling holes, first laying it on a piece of wood.

Drill out round rubber gaskets

With the help of such a simple device and water, you can drill out as many smooth, neat rubber rounds as you like (I use them to make non-slip feet for devices). The sharpened tube operates on the principle of a drill, but as the circles are drilled, it becomes filled with them, and in order to pull them out, a special piston is needed. You then simply push the rubber rounds out of the sharpened tube.

Squeeze the rubber bands out of the tube with a piston

The main thing is not to forget to wet the rubber with water when drilling or cutting. It should be noted that cutting a circle using a sharpened tube is much easier and more convenient than in the classic way- using a drill. However, if you need to drill rubber with a drill, this is also quite easy to do by sharpening it first and periodically dipping the drill in water.

You need to drill rubber at low speeds and periodically wet the cutting edge. However, if you need to drill a large block of rubber at high speeds, it is advisable for you to completely immerse it in water.

Drilling rubber in water using a drill.

As a last resort, holes in thin rubber, as in plastic, you can melt it by heating the shank of a drill or an iron tube with a lighter.

Holes melted into rubber

The main thing is to be careful when working with hot metal. Also remember that rubber can release toxic substances when overheated, so melt holes under the hood or in a well-ventilated area. Follow all safety rules even when drilling rubber.

How to make a sealing gasket or ring from assembly (construction) silicone

As an experiment, I decided to try to make sealing rings for this faucet spout, since store-bought seals have been increasingly disappointing lately. I was thinking about replacing the factory seals with regular rings of a suitable diameter, but somehow I couldn’t find them at the nearest auto parts store. You can, of course, increase the diameter of the mixer body seat under the oil seal so that the factory oil seal fits more tightly into place and adheres to the spout. But first I decided to try the rings own production, if it doesn’t work, then we’ll have to take care of the faucet or spout itself.

The idea itself was borrowed from the Internet, where a man was grinding a mold for rings in a piece of plexiglass. I decided to use regular paraffin for this, so that in case of an error, I could refill it and start sharpening again. Since I didn’t need very thick rings, I decided to pour paraffin into a regular canning lid. We mark the center on it, for this I simply stuck it with a magnet onto the jaws of a screwdriver. Then, periodically turning on the screwdriver, I centered the position of the lid on the jaws to get rid of strong beating. Then, on the rotating lid, I placed a ring mark in the middle with a marker.

We poke the center of the lid with an awl, and then drill a hole for a suitable screw. Since the tin of the lid is rather thin, it is better to place washers under the nut and bolt. Let's tighten it all up.

We clamp the thread of the screw or bolt into a screwdriver and check for possible runout. We don’t need any special precision since we will be sharpening at low speeds. The main thing is that the plane of the cover is strictly perpendicular to the axis of rotation of the screwdriver. For this reason, it is better to use something thick-walled or put washers under the nut and bolt.

If everything is within normal limits, then put the lid on the fire and melt the paraffin in it. It should be taken into account that paraffin settles significantly when cooling. Therefore, the thickness of the paraffin filling should be made almost twice as thick as the silicone ring we need.

After filling the lid with paraffin, leave it to cool.

We clamp the lid into the drill and make test run.

Drilling plastics and rubber.

We do not set high speeds, since paraffin is easily and quickly processed at low speeds, and there is less chance of making a mistake. If necessary, use a knife or some kind of scraper to level the plane for future marking. If there is beating of the plane, then during leveling you will feel it, since the knife at the beginning of leveling will remove only one side of the plane.

I need to get almost the same ring as the factory one, maybe a little thicker. Therefore, I decided to machine a groove of such a size that the factory ring would simply sink flush into it. We place the old ring on the paraffin, center it, periodically turning on the screwdriver.

Moving it slightly to the side, we place a mark on the paraffin under it.

Then, turning on the screwdriver, we beat off a circle along this mark.

Then we transfer the dimensions of the ring we need to paraffin, starting in size from the circle that we cut off earlier.

After all the markings have been made, we move on to turning work.

Using a screwdriver or some kind of scraper, we make a groove to the required depth, periodically checking its dimensions.

Five to ten minutes of work and the groove is ready. The good thing about paraffin is that it is easy to process, you can almost sharpen it with your fingernail. But this is also its disadvantage; you need to do everything very carefully, as you can easily screw everything up with one awkward movement.

We remove the mold from the drill, and then carefully fill the groove with silicone, trying to smooth the silicone flush with the paraffin. It is better to do all this with a piece of smooth plastic or cardboard, but relatively soft, so as not to damage the paraffin mold. When filling with silicone, we try to avoid the formation of air bubbles.

We dry it for a week, after which we remove the ring.

The acidic silicone leaves some kind of slippery substance on the mold. Which is easily washed off in a little warm running water with soap. You don’t even need to touch the mold, just pour soapy water from your hand onto the mold until the fat stops shining on the paraffin.

Then fill the mold again with silicone and dry it.

We cut off the excess film and the gaskets are ready.

In general, now these rings are waiting their turn to be installed in the mixer, since the factory ones (which I recently installed) have not yet worn out. In addition, there is time to see what will happen to them in a couple of months, since some silicones tend to shrink in size. I thought that paraffin did not dissolve much with anything, but I still noticed that it turned slightly white from contact with silicone, perhaps some kind of reaction was occurring. But this did not seem to have any effect on the shape of the rings, the second ring was the same as the first, did not corrode or dissolve anything. It seems that there are neutral silicones; with them, paraffin will most likely have nothing at all. But if you need a lot of gaskets, then it’s probably better to machine the mold in some kind of plastic (plexiglass, etc.), then this mold will be more durable and strong.

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How to drill (cut) a hole at Ф32 in a sheet of 40mm rubber

choopokapra 30-09-2014 09:01

Good day, the question is actually in the title of the topic. I have a piece of 40mm rubber just for the F200 circle, so I’m thinking about how and with what to make a hole in it, I’ll be very grateful for your advice. Thanks in advance!

BOLT2000 30-09-2014 09:21

notch.

Anton42 30-09-2014 09:22

Will it not vomit?
IMHO it is necessary at high speeds starting with a smaller diameter, again the cold may melt. I'll listen to smart people!

Comrade Beria 30-09-2014 09:34

A turner I know once mentioned a method for freezing rubber blanks. That is, he froze it, and until it, stiffened, moved away, with its incisor, with its incisor. In this case, with a crown.

cucobara 30-09-2014 09:36

Chemists have tubular rubber drills for making laboratory stoppers. It is a thin-walled tube with a sharpened edge. The holes are not cut, but drilled by hand. This tube is easy to make yourself. The difference from a perforation is that the hole is cylindrical, not conical.

sergVs 30-09-2014 09:40

The notch is definitely gutted. If you find it or have somewhere to do it. If not, then a circular cutter should help. Although at 40mm thickness you will have to work hard. Crowns are also an option, but the result greatly depends on the type of rubber (hard is most likely ok, soft - I don’t know) and the edges will not be smooth. We need to try and perhaps adjust the speed. It may not fit. There is an option to cut manual cutter, but the shape will most likely be far from ideal and will take some time (but you will save on searching and purchasing special tools). So far nothing else comes to mind. Something like that.

Xoma Minsk 30-09-2014 09:41

It can “chew” crowns..I narrow knife made punctures (on both sides), combined them into a “hole” of a much smaller diameter of an arbitrary shape, then made a hole out of the hole with a drum and sandpaper on the engraver. After that, I ground the outer diameter of the circle, placing it on the engine, with the same engraver so that it would not hit) Only the circle was F160.

KromeshNIK 30-09-2014 09:50

In 40 mm rubber, it will be difficult to cut at a time; repeated blows can move the axial center. At one time, I made cutters out of fur fabric into a ballerina like this and drilled holes. Clean, even, even in rubber with a non-metal cord, you just need to try to adjust the diameter.
Sincerely

alex-wolff 09/30/2014 10:01 quote: Originally written by ktt:
http://www.bigturtle.ru/koronki-po-derevu-11.html
I think this is what it should look like
this is a simple solution and the correct answer.
a ballerina (as in the picture from the previous post) will not help, the rubber will clamp the incisors, this is only for wood, plastic and drywall.
a crown for metal, just right, with such thickness. Wolf5862007 09/30/2014 10:02 quote: At one time, like a ballerina like this
+ 1. You can also use a feather drill at high speeds, if of course the rubber is hard. max12312 30-09-2014 10:18

Lubricate the tool with lard. If you cut by hand, take care of your hands, the cutter will fly where it couldn’t be pushed through.

Veger 30-09-2014 10:45

drill a thin hole, insert a jigsaw file and, controlling both sides of the sheet, slowly cut out. But the file will probably jam. With butter?

sergVs 09/30/2014 10:58 quote:Originally posted by Veger:

insert a jigsaw file and, controlling both sides of the sheet, slowly cut out

And here it is interesting option. It won't be fast, but it should work. I'd try it. Laundry soap is often used as a lubricant when cutting rubber. That is, before sawing, rub the file with a bar of soap and repeat during the process. Something like that. KromeshNIK 09/30/2014 11:13 quote: a ballerina (as in the picture from the previous post) will not help, the rubber will clamp the incisors
I described from personal experience, I tried to make type-setting rollers from sheet rubber, from conveyor belts, etc., the crowns do not give smooth edges, they need to be further processed later, the height of the crowns is limited. Again, I have not seen crowns for 200. An electric jigsaw, even with oil or solarium (as I was advised), is only suitable for cutting workpieces due to its not very high precision cutting. You can, of course, go through the lathe later, but it’s not that simple either - you need to clamp the workpiece between the plates so that the cutter doesn’t “squeeze” the workpiece, you can do it in a lathe, not with a cutter, but, say, with coarse sandpaper (exactly but for a long time).
I made the cutters for the ballerina in a diamond shape (you can experiment, of course) lubrication is needed in the machine (no need for a drill)
Something like this.
Sincerely alex-wolff 30-09-2014 11:45

Although this will not get rid of the balancing problem.....as I understand it, the task is to adapt the wheel to endless tape. So? the problem of balancing in this case can be solved only in one way, to reduce the speed of the sharpener.....and so, you will get tired of balancing a piece of rubber, and the circle will turn out to be heavy, which will create even greater and more dangerous preconditions. It’s better, if you really want such a wheel, to turn a lightweight one out of aluminum and cover it with rubber... something like this.

Xoma Minsk 30-09-2014 13:02

A long time ago I made a wheel made of rubber with a diameter of either 160 or 180 on a sharpener. I described the technology above. I leveled it with the sharpener turned on using an engraver. At 1500 rpm. I did not detect any vibrations or beats. And then it’s up to everyone to think or try) Rubber is not the most difficult to process material and business for a couple of hours. If you don’t like it, you can always throw it away) Or you can continue to think about “it hits or doesn’t hit”. Use the same engraver to center it if it suddenly hits)

Semyon Mikhalych 30-09-2014 14:00

I also have such a circle.
But the hole was made not for the bushing on the grinder, but for the shaft itself, diameter 16.
The hole can be made on a lathe, or on a drill with a tubular drill, lubricated with water during operation.
By the way, this work will take less time than we spent on posts here.))

Nice 30-09-2014 14:38

Feather drill
Centering on a small file.

serega91 30-09-2014 17:26

I cut this out using a sharpened piece of pipe of the required diameter, aerosol silicone grease and a 10t press.

Dmitry-471 30-09-2014 17:52

I cut holes up to 80mm in diameter on a lathe, just 40mm thick. I made a device for the tailstock, in the form of a thin-walled pipe sharpened from the inside and with a cutout for removing the drilled rubber tip. I watered it with ordinary machine oil, which was at hand. Up to 50mm holes are smooth. The heating is quite strong, with smoke and the smell of burning rubber. The result suited me.
Best regards, Dmitry.

arkuda 30-09-2014 17:57

About 25 years ago lathe they sharpened various bodies of rotation from very dense rubber (as matrices for casting), with a diameter of 150-200 mm. The professors gave up, and the old turner Uncle Vanya made a thin cutting tool and, with the help of the SOVIET LAUNDRY SOAP worked miracles

Dmitry-471 30-09-2014 17:58

I cut holes up to 80 mm in diameter on a lathe, just 40 mm thick. I made a device for the tailstock, in the form of a thin-walled pipe sharpened from the inside and with a cutout to remove the drilled rubber tip. I watered it with regular machine oil, whatever I had on hand. Up to 50 mm holes are smooth. The heating is quite strong, with smoke and the smell of burning rubber. The result suited me.
Best regards, Dmitry.

vityuxa 30-09-2014 18:57

Still a ballerina! at the factory, “vacuum workers” cut thicker sheets, and not pancakes, but rings! Both black and vacuum rubber. The cutter itself is very thin, a millimeter and a half, like a knife, shaped like a needle file, and is constantly emulsified in work area. I don’t remember the rpm right now, but rather slowly 300-400 no more, I don’t remember in short. Exactly at least 500X5, like cast ones. It doesn’t seem to be difficult to make a ballerina; everyone has the same principle. And only on a professional machine, the more...

Gunmen 01-10-2014 04:08quote:Originally posted by alex-wolff:

a ballerina (as in the picture from the previous post) will not help, the rubber will clamp the incisors

so that the cutting area is not pinched, it is wetted or lubricated.

I am a former vacuum operator myself. white was cut into sealants.

Rubber stopper

if something is complex in shape, fill the rubber sheet with liquid nitrogen and almost process it with a file
speed on the vitorezny 100-200. Depends on tire and diameter.

Al.P 01-10-2014 06:52

Cut several times diameter 22mm, thickness 30mm with cheap Chinese feather drill on wood, wetted with water, on Jet-8, at the lowest speeds.

choopokapra 01-10-2014 08:22 quote: Originally written by Dmitry-471:
I cut holes up to 80mm in diameter on a lathe, just 40mm thick. I made a device for the tailstock, in the form of a thin-walled pipe sharpened from the inside and with a cutout for removing the drilled rubber tip
Best regards, Dmitry.

ktt 01-10-2014 09:01 quote: As far as I understood (guessed) from TS’s post, he wants to make a wheel on the sharpener, so....okay the hole, another thing is how will he do the balancing on this wheel? This is where the hemorrhoids are, and drilling a hole is not such a big problem.
Is it possible to immediately dissuade the person so that the person does not get hurt?…..although maybe my assumptions are not correct, but it seems painfully similar….the wheel is 200mm, the hole is 32mm (for the mandrel sleeve)…..maybe it’s easier to just sharpen it on the shaft? It’s easier to drill 17-19mm than for a 32 adapter sleeve.
Although this will not get rid of the balancing problem.....as I understand it, the task is to adapt the wheel to an endless belt. So? the problem of balancing in this case can be solved only in one way, to reduce the speed of the sharpener.....and so, you will get tired of balancing a piece of rubber, and the circle will turn out to be heavy, which will create even greater and more dangerous preconditions. It’s better, if you really want such a wheel, to turn a lightweight one out of aluminum and cover it with rubber... something like this.
I completely agree with Alexander
Dmitry-471 01-10-2014 16:58quote:Originally posted by choopokapra:

How was the rubber mounted in the chuck - in the chuck jaws or on what kind of mandrel?

I have a turning machine, but there are no return jaws to clamp such a diameter

It was not mounted in a chuck. I made a mandrel, since the rubber was rectangular in shape

Roman_Dyagelev 04-10-2014 21:00

I cut a slightly smaller diameter with a sharpened pipe sharpened from the inside. And at the end I welded the “used” socket head and put the ratchet on 1/2 and, pressing hard, turned it. Carefully and quickly. But it needs to be sharpened well.

TRYP 04-10-2014 22:24

The question is about the seat? If so, I advise you to reduce the diameter of the hole and press the rubber onto the shaft, or is this a roller from Nikitin’s grinder? Before drilling the landing, I recommend marking not only the landing but also the outer diameter, this will help with the search optimal location center.

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Cutting rubber or silicone is a non-trivial task, because the question immediately arises - what to cut and how. Application laser cutter This is not always the right solution. We will try to dispel the myth that this type of material is difficult to process mechanically.

The properties of silicone known to us - its elasticity, durability, low electrical conductivity - make this material indispensable in the manufacture of various substrates, seals, gaskets, rings, elastic bands, belts for transmission mechanisms and assemblies, etc.

Tubular drill bits for rubber

But during processing you can often encounter a number of problems associated with violation of production techniques, with improper storage, overheating. Porosity appears, hardness decreases, strength decreases, and deformation increases.

Efficiency laser cutting directly depends on the thickness of the material being cut and its flammability. And the thicker the material, the greater the likelihood of damaging the product, violating its geometry due to thermal effects, which ultimately spoils presentation and product quality. Due to the action of the laser beam, a hole appears on the material with a diameter exceeding the thickness of the cut line. The entry point is shifted to the side, and the burning of the entry hole in the material occurs outside the contour of the product or in its protruding, non-working part, which leads to additional costs consumables and increased cost of the final product.

Another problem is that cutting rubber with a laser beam may be accompanied by charring of the end surface. This usually happens with a large thickness - more than 20-25 mm - of the material being processed. And if, for example, rubber insulators are cut using a laser, additional testing for the conductivity of the resulting products may be required, since the insulating properties of the charred material are significantly deteriorated.

Cutting on CNC plotters

Plotter cutting of rubber is a way to circumvent such problems, and in our production we have been fulfilling orders for cutting rubber and similar materials in terms of processing for several years: silicone, neoprene, etc. using a CNC plotter. Products processed on a plotter are obtained with a clean, smooth and neat edge without soot or soot.

Cutting silicone or rubber is done with high-alloy steel knives, which leave a perfect smooth surface, which does not require additional processing, on cutting complexes with a working table size of 1330×800 mm and 1800×3200 mm. The material is pressed by vacuum, which completely eliminates any kind of deformation. The beam height of 60 mm allows cutting of thick rubber - up to 50 mm thick - or cutting in several layers, and the processing speed can be higher than when using a laser. In our work, we use specialized software, with which we can arrange the sketch as efficiently as possible in order to save material and, therefore, reduce the cost per unit of product.

Cutting rubber sheets or figure cutting according to a sketch of any complexity, it is carried out in strict accordance with the layout provided by the customer.

If you are not sure that the material is suitable for this type of processing, we recommend that you use the free test cutting service before ordering.

As an experiment, I decided to try to make sealing rings for this faucet spout, since store-bought seals have been increasingly disappointing lately. I was thinking about replacing the factory seals with regular rings of a suitable diameter, but somehow I couldn’t find them at the nearest auto parts store. You can, of course, increase the diameter of the seat for the oil seal in the body of the mixer so that the factory oil seal fits more tightly into place and fits against the spout. But first, I decided to try the rings of my own production, and if it doesn’t work, then I’ll start working on the faucet or spout itself.

After filling the lid with paraffin, leave it to cool.

We clamp the cover into the drill and do a test run. We do not set high speeds, since paraffin is easily and quickly processed at low speeds, and there is less chance of making a mistake. If necessary, use a knife or some kind of scraper to level the plane for future marking. If there is beating of the plane, then during leveling you will feel it, since the knife at the beginning of leveling will remove only one side of the plane.

Moving it slightly to the side, we place a mark on the paraffin under it.

Then, turning on the screwdriver, we beat off a circle along this mark.

Then we transfer the dimensions of the ring we need to paraffin, starting in size from the circle that we cut off earlier.

After all the markings have been made, we move on to turning work.

Using a screwdriver or some kind of scraper, we make a groove to the required depth, periodically checking its dimensions.

We dry it for a week, after which we remove the ring.

The acidic silicone leaves some kind of slippery substance on the mold. Which is easily washed off in lukewarm running water and soap. You don’t even need to touch the mold, just pour soapy water from your hand onto the mold until the fat stops shining on the paraffin.

Then fill the mold again with silicone and dry it.

We cut off the excess film and the gaskets are ready.

The design of a bidet for an ordinary toilet turned out to be quite simple and can be repeated by almost any home craftsman.

Water supply to the toilet bowl for a bidet fountain

The first and most difficult question was how to supply water to the toilet bowl. I didn’t want to attach the tube with the fitting to the toilet lid, since the lid has to be removed periodically for cleaning. Drilling a hole in the toilet faience not an easy task, and the toilet may crack. Next visual inspection toilet to find a way to lay a water pipe for a bidet suggested a simple solution.

Since the tube is flexible, having passed through the winding water pipe of the toilet, it was oriented with its end at random when entering its bowl. To give the desired direction and the possibility of fixing the tube, as well as to be able to fix the nozzle on it, one of the brass elbows of the above-mentioned telescopic antenna with a diameter of 4 mm and a length of 150 mm was inserted into the tube after threading, from the side of the toilet bowl. With an internal diameter of the bidet tube of 4.5 mm, the elbow was easily inserted, but it could only be removed with considerable force.

Next, the bidet tube with the antenna elbow inserted was pushed back into the toilet water pipe. Since the water conduit is not rectilinear, but the tube is straight, it, resting against the walls of the water conduit, was quite firmly fixed in it, even slightly bent. This was a pleasant surprise; the issue of attaching the bidet tube was resolved by itself.

Previously, in the immediate vicinity of the end, a rectangular hole was made in the brass tube on the side surface for the passage of water into the nozzle.

In the photo you can see how the tube for the bidet fountain was installed in the toilet bowl. It turned out much better than I expected. All that remains is to come up with and make a nozzle.

One of the main requirements for bidet water supply materials is corrosion resistance, so plastic and brass were used. Additional requirements apply to the nozzle for the fountain; the material must be antibacterial. Satisfying all these requirements, from available materials, it turned out to be fluoroplastic, also called Teflon. Fluoroplastic is resistant to impact external environment, does not dissolve even in aqua regia. Nothing sticks to it, not even bacteria and fungi. It has a snow-white color and is easy to process. Ideal material for making bidet nozzles.

In the center of a rectangular piece of fluoroplastic measuring 10x10x30 mm, a hole with a diameter of 4 mm is drilled lengthwise to a depth of 25 mm. To determine the angle at which it will be necessary to drill holes for the fountain, I placed the future nozzle on the installed brass tube in the toilet, placed a ruler on the workpiece so that its edge passed through the center of the toilet bowl and marked a line on the workpiece. If the workpiece holds weakly on the brass tube, then the end of the brass tube needs to be slightly flared.

First, one hole with a diameter of 1 mm for the fountain is drilled in the workpiece, then after testing, if the stream hits where intended, this hole is drilled out to 2 mm (determined experimentally). To check the correct angle of drilling holes, the workpiece is put on a brass tube, on solenoid valve voltage is supplied, the valve sets the desired pressure of the fountain.

After giving the nozzle the desired shape using an emery column, you can begin installing the bidet system in the toilet.

The removable design of the nozzle allows you to select the optimal angle and number of holes in it during operation. At the same time, thanks to the rectangular hole in the brass tube, you can drill holes in the nozzle on four sides and, by turning it 90°, select the washing mode you like.

Installing a bidet in the toilet

To install the proposed bidet design in the toilet, it is necessary to dismantle the flush cistern. The flush cistern is attached to the toilet platform using two M10 threaded bolts. Bolts with rubber gaskets on them are inserted with inside flush cistern, pass through the holes in the toilet bowl and from below, also through rubber gaskets, and are tightened with nuts.

This work may be difficult to perform if the bolts are made of steel and are heavily rusted. It is necessary to prepare a replacement fastener kit in advance. When I installed the toilet, I immediately replaced the steel bolts with studs from stainless steel, and replaced the nuts with caprolon nuts. Over 12 years of operation appearance The fasteners did not change, and the nuts came off easily.

After freeing the cistern from the bolts, you need to remove it from the toilet platform. If flexible hose allows, then you can put a stool next to the toilet and temporarily place the cistern on it. A picture will appear before your eyes, as in the photo below.

White marks on the platform are silicone applied when installing the cistern. Before installing a new rubber gasket, they must be removed. The gasket was in excellent condition and could be left behind. But a hole had already been drilled in the new one, and it had to be installed.

Before installing the gasket, you need to thread it through drilled hole bidet tube, pass it through the drain hole and toilet water pipe into the bowl, insert a brass tube into the bidet tube. Next, fix the resulting structure in the toilet water pipe, as during the experiment.

Just in case, it is advisable to give some slack to the bidet tube in the form of a ring placed in the toilet drain hole.

When installing the flush tank on the toilet gasket, it was discovered that the seat of the drain hole in the tank protrudes as a ring with a nut securing it from the tank and squeezes the hose for supplying water to the bidet. I had to make a hole in the plastic ring and nut with a round file where the tube passed through.

After this, the drain tank is installed in place, secured with bolts and the water supply through the bidet tube is checked. Next, in cistern The previously removed fittings are installed and the tank is closed with a lid.

The mechanical part of working with a toilet to equip it additional function bidet and water supply is finished.

Externally, the toilet has not changed, only a small snow-white bidet nozzle in the shape of a drop has appeared in its bowl, a fountain of water from which will always be ready to satisfy your hygienic needs.

During the cold season, the water in the water supply is cold and can cause discomfort during hygiene procedures. To do this, water can be passed through a buffer tank, in which it will be heated to room temperature.

You don’t have to install a solenoid valve and control the water supply by rotating the tap valve. But it is much more convenient to solve this problem remotely, using