Moonshine is strong alcoholic drink, obtained through the process of distillation or rectification in living conditions. Alcohol is always obtained in approximately the same way by processing mash. This is a sugar- or starch-containing mixture to which yeast is added and where the process of formation of microorganisms occurs. In fact, alcohol (ethyl, methyl, isobutyl and isoamyl), as well as acetone and aldehydes, are waste products of fungi. During the distillation process, ethyl alcohol is separated from all other impurities, which makes it possible to obtain moonshine. If you need to get pure 96% alcohol, then you will need distillation column. In any case, with or without a column, the main element of the moonshine still is the distillation cube. This is a container for evaporating an alcohol solution. Making a distillation cube with your own hands is not difficult, the main thing is to understand what it is made of and how to ensure its complete tightness.

Main characteristics

The distillation cube can differ not only in shape, but also in size, as well as the type of material from which it is made.

Formally, any enameled, copper or made of of stainless steel capacity that meets three main parameters:

• a hermetically and rigidly closing lid, that is, one that will not break off under excess pressure

Depending on the unit from which the distillation cube is made, the pressure inside will increase to 180-200 kPa.

• the presence of a steam outlet, for which a fitting or futor is cut into the lid;
• tightness, which will not allow not only alcohol-containing vapors to escape, but also liquids from splashing out.

The main problems arise precisely with the last criterion. Neither a milk can, nor a pressure cooker/multi-cooker, nor a saucepan with a tight-fitting lid have a sufficient seal. Some solve the problem by covering it with dough, others use silicone insulation. The second option is much more preferable, since during the first serious distillation (30-40 liters of mash), the frozen dough, which has to be scraped off several times, forever discourages making insulation out of it.

When purchasing or creating a distillation cube with your own hands, its volume is very important. If moonshine is made only for personal consumption for a holiday, and a volume of 0.75 liters is quite enough, you can make it. Why such a small volume? Because from 4.5 liters of mash you will get 1 liter of dirty alcohol, after which the head and tail are separated and re-distilled. At the exit, the remainder of the finished product will be 0.70-0.75 liters.

If you plan to try moonshine more often than once a year at your mother-in-law’s birthday, then we recommend purchasing or making your own container with a volume of 24 liters or more.

On average, 24 liters of mash produces 5.5 liters of pure moonshine.

Here is an example of the most suitable container in terms of volume and sealing

Materials for production

Stainless steel is best suited for manufacturing. And it is from this that ready-made distillation stills are sold. The steel is characterized by a high degree of resistance to temperature loads (withstands temperatures up to +1000 0 C), is not subject to corrosion, and is inert in relation to various chemical elements and is relatively inexpensive material. In order for the finished product to turn out to be of truly high quality - without any foreign taste or smell - steel is suitable, which cannot be said about aluminum.

Stainless steel

Required materials and tools:

• 1 steel sheet 0.5 mm;
• a piece of pipe with a diameter of 50 mm;
• fitting;
• fittings;
• arc welding;
• metal scissors or grinder;
• metal brush.

Make a cut from the sheet for the future cube. To do this, cut out 4 rectangles 0.30 x 0.50 mm - the end sides, top and bottom, 2 rectangles 0.30 x 0.25 mm - the sides.

In the upper part of the structure, cut a hole into which you insert a piece of pipe. The mash is first supplied through this filler hole, after which it is screwed tightly with a lid and fitting. And a silicone hose is inserted into the fitting, which will connect the distillation cube to the coil. For convenience, you can make a hole in the side and insert a pipe with a tap. At the end of distillation, the remaining mash is drained through it.

All parts are welded together using electric arc welding. Since the sheets have become relatively thin, they can be joined with a soldering iron. First, treat future seams with phosphoric acid, which cleans the metal and protects it from oxidation, and then solder it. Use tin as solder.

To make the lid airtight, install it according to the principle of twisting a flask. To do this, you will need to cut a thread or select the appropriate pipe.

All elements, including the lid and pipes, must be made of stainless steel.

Separately, a small hole is drilled in the finished container for the sleeve, into which a bimetallic thermometer is inserted.

Of course, at first glance this process seems very simple, although in reality, from cutting parts to assembling the entire structure, there is nothing simple here. Some will notice that a homemade moonshine still is inferior to an industrial model, and there are fewer problems - buy it, fill it up and start the moonshine brewing process. But this is not for everyone. Beginners are interested in assembling their own, albeit small, apparatus, which will allow them to get 1.5-2 liters of moonshine. A experienced craftsmen strive to create the IDEAL moonshine still, to which you can choose interesting technological solutions. You can take our proposed version of a stainless steel distillation cube as a basis and add additional “bells and whistles” to it.

To make it clearer, look at the video of how to make a distillation cube with your own hands

What else can you make a distillation cube from?

Pressure cooker

We have already told you before. This is an ideal option for those who are satisfied with a small amount of moonshine, and there is no opportunity or desire to “be clever” with a separate design. A pressure cooker has one very significant advantage over all other methods - tightness and the ability to withstand high pressure. Also important is the non-stick coating, which prevents the mash from burning. If the mash begins to stick to the walls of the container, the burning smell will be clearly “audible” in finished product.

Beer keg

A beer keg, which is used for transportation, is also suitable for making a cube. The keg itself is a suitable container in terms of volume and tightness, but the lid will need to be redone. To do this, use a caliper to mark a circle for the diameter of the pipe, make several small holes and press the circle. Clean the edges. Insert the threaded pipe and tighten the nuts.

A beer keg is not the best option for distilling mash. Firstly, it is made of aluminum, which is a non-inert chemical material that oxidizes under the influence of alcohol vapor and temperature. Secondly, such a container does not have sufficient tightness. The lid does not provide such insulation and therefore it is necessary to use gaskets to make the pressure stronger. Over time, aluminum bends due to its softness, and the tightness is lost again.

Milk can

The manufacturing principle is identical to a beer keg. Make a steam outlet hole in the lid and insert the sleeve under the thermometer. A special fastening can be provided on the lid to ensure complete tightness.

The can must be made of stainless steel. Avoid using aluminum containers for distillation.

Based on quite great experience experiments in making distillation cubes with your own hands, we responsibly declare that it is best to make a container from stainless steel. Such a unit will last for several decades and will not lose its basic properties - tightness, inertness and resistance to high temperatures.

Somehow I missed this topic. I must say - completely undeserved. In principle, many will say that the design of the cube, as they say, “does not affect speed.” However, the design of the cube sometimes has a very significant impact on the ease of use. And in some processes (for example, when working with grain mash) it can also affect the overall speed of the process.

Let's look at the main variations of cubes, their strengths and weak sides. Of course, I will not disassemble non-standard homemade products. Let's talk only about the most common options, built on standard components. The first in the row will rightfully be the well-deserved

Milk flask (can, container from the milking machine). Probably the most affordable option as a basis for cube construction.
I myself have two pieces of 40 liters each, both bought used for 1000 rubles each (the price for them was quite stable before the crisis, for example, I bought mine several months apart, and I also “picked around” - I chose a cleaner one yes more equally). It is irrational to take a smaller volume, since the price differs only slightly, but the benefit of a larger one is much greater. It’s better to buy used ones, since most of them are old, Soviet-era vessels - I like them better. The new ones are somehow flimsier, thinner. Aluminum is perfectly processed, any required holes can be done with improvised means. The fittings used are standard brass or bronze (available at any plumbing store for a reasonable price). You can use original rubber gaskets under the lid, wrapping them with plumbing foam. If the gasket does not hold or is not there at all (a reason to negotiate the price - a new one costs from 50 to 400 rubles, depending on the greed of the sale), it does not matter either. On one of my flasks, the gasket, after working for several months, began to corrode and I replaced it with a piece of silicone hose (11 by 16 mm), joining it with a piece of silicone hose of a smaller diameter (8 by 10). Works great.

The disadvantages include:

1. Does not like alkaline environments. There is no need to wash with any “moles” or other alkaline-based products. Very rapid failure is ensured - the surface becomes ulcerated and holes form.

2. Doesn't like cold water. The result is the same as from the action of alkali, the process is just slower.

3. You have to fasten the connecting elements with threads and without welding, they all sooner or later begin to unscrew, and soldering aluminum is tricky (at least that’s how I learned it - the ease of assembly is fascinating and it’s easier to give up on future difficulties - “it will do,” but periodically you have to tighten it up). For me this is perhaps the biggest drawback.

Pressure cooker. This version of the cube is good for everyone, except for one thing - the volume of pressure cookers is usually no more than 12 liters (usually 9-10 liters, or even 5-6). Because of this, it is not rational to put heating elements in a pressure cooker; you have to purchase an induction one (increasing the price of an already not very profitable device due to the small volume) or heat it with gas (impossibility of insulation, which, however, is compensated by the small volume) and often encounter height restrictions ( does not pass under the hood, etc.). It is usually used as a “starting” cube for deciding whether to develop. I use a 9L stainless steel OKA pressure cooker. I removed the standard valves from it, installed a 1/2″ adapter (on a thread with a nut and a Teflon gasket) in the hole of one of them, and a thermometer in the hole of the other. There are aluminum pressure cookers - they are easier to modify. I chose stainless steel because of its durability and ability to adapt to distillery needs without damaging it. At any time, you can remove the distiller and thermometer, replace the valves and use the pressure cooker for its intended purpose. Quite often I use it to make gin (less often absinthe and other drinks based on essential oils plants). This is much more convenient than driving a large cube.

Cooking pots and kettles . Of course, you need to purchase stainless steel pans to build a cube, but aluminum ones are now difficult to find, and enameled ones are not suitable. When choosing such a base, you need to pay attention to the thickness of the material and, especially, the rigidity of the lid - you will often place a very heavy device on it. If you are going to use induction, then pay attention to the material of the bottom (not all pans are suitable for use with induction cookers; this, by the way, is a general note for any cube).
The main problem when constructing pot cubes is sealing the lid. Sometimes you can find a gasket from some silicone baking dish or silicone mat (they have appeared recently, you can buy them on ebay the right size), sometimes you have to weld the lid and equip it with a welded flange (or even replace the lid with a suitable circle made of a 3mm thick sheet). In general, the “pan” option is not suitable for home cube construction due to the initial cost of the pan itself, the need welding work(in a good way, or soldering in a bad way). And most importantly, due to the presence of a very strong alternative in the form

Stainless steel beer keg . Definitely a great capacity. Thick wall, stiffeners, convenient volume (20, 30 and 50 liters). It can be used without modification, installing the device on a standard 2″ neck mount (preferably with a three-clamp, then no welding or other methods are needed at all). Easily amenable to deep modification, after which you will get a truly convenient cube for all occasions. The illustration shows a cube from a 50 liter keg with a welded pressure cooker, resolving issues sealed neck. The disadvantages include the need for argon welding, or, at worst, hard soldering.

I consider this to be the pinnacle of amateur cube building today. steam-water boiler (PVC) . Structurally, it consists of two nested containers. The inner container is actually the cube, and the outer one plays the role of a shirt for it. A certain amount of water is poured into the shirt, which is heated using heating elements. It turns out to be a kind of steam-water bath for the cube. This achieves good uniform heating of its entire surface with a very small temperature gradient at the boundary between the cube wall and stillage. No local overheating, burning, etc. In addition to heating, you can also cool the contents of the cube by running cold water through the jacket. This alternation of heating and cooling is necessary when preparing grain (starch) mash, where you first need to heat for boiling, then cool for saccharification and then for the actual fermentation. It is also very convenient for brewing beer. Of course, such a version of the cube is, to put it mildly, inexpensive and you need to acquire it with a clear understanding of why you actually need all this.

Recently, stainless torque converters have been used as the basis for the cube, but I don’t particularly like this option. They are not cheap and require as much work as a keg. In addition, containers with a volume of less than 80 liters have a horizontal orientation and a hatch at the end. It turns out not very convenient to work with.

Summary. At the very beginning of distillery activity, you should not purchase an expensive still or bother with making a complex container yourself. It is still unknown how much you will really need all this later. It makes sense to get a milk flask or even a pressure cooker. It won’t be a shame to throw out the first one, but the second one will come in handy even if you have advanced cubes. In any case, remember - the cube is just part of your distillation system and its volume must be combined with the volume of the fermentation tank, the amount of finished product you desire and other indicators. It’s quite funny, for example, to try to fill a 35-liter barrel with distillate using a pressure cooker as a distillation cube. 🙂

When acquiring a cube, pay attention to following points: the possibility of insulation (if it is without insulation), the presence of a wide neck to ensure convenient maintenance and the possibility of subsequent modification (often you don’t know today what you want tomorrow), the presence of the necessary connecting elements (pipes), sufficient overall strength of the structure.

And a copper coil.

We will assemble such a moonshine still on this page:

To create this small moonshine still we will need: a saucepan with a tight-fitting lid, a piece of plastic sewer pipe diameter 45 mm, about two meters copper tube from a Soviet refrigerator, several tubes of “superglue”, a half-inch coupling with two nuts, a small jar with a tight-fitting lid, 100 grams of epoxy glue, silver paint, a medical dropper, and 2 fittings with hoses for draining and supplying cooling water.

You will also need fluoroplastic tape, a piece of rolled steel or aluminum (for example, an angle or a channel, I used a piece of an old aluminum baguette), two anchors (or bolts) with nuts for pressing the lid with a piece of rolled material to the pan, and a sheet metal from a beer can. Beer or another source of inspiration will also not be superfluous, the main thing is not to overdo it :). Here is an example set:

Naturally, you need to start making this device by choosing a suitable container for evaporating the mash (a distillation cube, to be more precise). I came across a saucepan with a capacity of about 7 liters, which will allow me to load 5 liters of mash into it and get 1.2 liters of 45 degree moonshine at the output. Not a record, of course, but more than enough to satisfy our own needs.

The advantages include the ease of assembly (it took me two evenings for 3 hours - and this is together with smoke breaks, etc.), price (less than $10 was spent on materials, not counting the pan), availability of materials (everything except the copper tube can be buy it at the market or at a building materials store, I bought the tube at a refrigerator repair shop and got it for $2), high quality ready-made moonshine (due to the presence of a steam chamber and the quality of the materials used), the flow diagram of the refrigerator (more details), as well as its compactness.

I see one downside: the yield of the finished product is relatively small, but it all depends on the container you choose (about 1.2 liters of moonshine 45 degrees for every 5 liters of mash poured). It is best to start assembling a moonshine still by making a refrigerator. As a body for it, I used a piece of sewer pipe with a diameter of 45 mm and a length of about 25 cm. I cut a plug from a beer can for both ends.

To mark the internal diameter on the sheet metal, I had to cut a piece about two centimeters long from the pipe I bought (fortunately, the length of the piece I bought was enough for 2.5 refrigerators), because My hand simply couldn’t fit into such a small diameter :). Like this:

We mark the contour of the plug for the coil refrigerator and carefully cut it along the outer contour. Something like this:

Then we wind it from a piece of copper tube. I used a piece as a mandrel for winding water pipe about 3 cm in diameter.

On one side I left about 30 cm of tube - for connecting to the reflux condenser (steam steamer), on the other - about 10 cm - for the moonshine drainage hose. Here is the finished coil:

And here is the fitting of the coil to its body. As you can see, everything worked out:

Then you need to attach water inlet and outlet fittings to the refrigerator body. You can use standard ones like this:

Although there are many home distillers of different types on the market price categories, experienced moonshiners prefer to make equipment themselves or place an order to trusted craftsmen using their own drawings and diagrams.

The advantage of this approach is not only cost savings. Often, a home-made moonshine still is more reliable and practical than most store-bought models with incomprehensible elements that contradict the laws of physics, installed only to attract buyers and raise the price. Next we will look at the classic design of a moonshine still (distiller), which has no equal in simplicity and efficiency.

Scheme of operation of a moonshine still with a steamer

Connecting elements

Intermediates play an important role. At wrong choice tubes or sealant, the moonshine turns out to be cloudy, with a nasty aftertaste, foul-smelling and even hazardous to health. Therefore, we will begin our consideration of the design with the connecting elements.

You should not “tightly” weld all the tubes together; this simplifies the assembly and disassembly of the device, but during cleaning it causes a lot of problems.

Metal tubes made of stainless steel, aluminum or copper, as well as alcohol-inert food or medical silicone hoses are most often used as a transport system. In terms of economy, safety, ease of maintenance and operation the best option The tubes are made from food grade stainless steel.

It is important to be able to distinguish silicone hoses from those made of PVC (polyvinyl chloride, when in contact with hot steam, saturates alcohol with toxic substances). PVC burns with a lot of smoke and unpleasant smell. Silicone does not smoke when burned and leaves a subtle odor and light ash. Silicone tubes feel much softer to the touch than PVC tubes, and their price is about twice as high.

Left - silicone, right - PVC

For branching turns, changing from one diameter to another and connecting different parts metal piping uses fittings and unions, which can be found in plumbing stores or construction markets. Fittings made of brass, bronze and stainless steel are suitable for the manufacture of a moonshine still ( best option) for heating networks, capable of withstanding high temperatures and pressures. For sealing purposes, the use of heat-resistant glue and cold welding is allowed, the main thing is to avoid rubber gaskets.

You can also use it to seal tubes. organic matter– ordinary dough that does not affect the distillate. There are two disadvantages: it takes a lot of time to knead and seal joints, and after distillation, the dried dough has to be scraped off.

Sealing with dough is a touch of ancient traditions followed by scraping :)

The assembled moonshine still must be sealed. If steam leaks through the tubes, it is better to stop distillation, allow the equipment to cool, repair the breakdown, and only then continue distillation. Depressurization is not only dangerous due to fire, but also leads to significant losses of moonshine (10-70%).

Alembic

It is a container in which the mash boils during the heating process. Options:

1. Material. Aluminum - most often found in “Soviet” moonshine stills due to widespread aluminum milk cans. Aluminum partially reacts with acids and alcohol in the mash, so with frequent use, aluminum stills (especially old ones) become unusable after six months - a leak appears.

Enameled cookware is neutral to acids and alcohols. At correct use(without bumps or scratches to the enamel) can last 3-5 years even with regular use.

Food grade stainless steel is the best and reliable option, but stainless steel cubes are expensive; often under their guise they sell ordinary steel with galvanized or nickel plating, which is not so durable.

Copper cubes are also suitable, however, in most cases this is an unreasonably expensive solution, especially for novice moonshiners.

2. Volume and dimensions. The volume of the still depends on the needs of the moonshiner; the best option for home use is 25-35 liters.

Attention! For safety reasons, the distillation cube can be filled with mash to a maximum of 80% of the volume; take this into account when choosing a container. It is also very important that the lid is removable and the neck width is large enough for comfortable cleaning of the container after distillation.

The volume of the cube is calculated based on the needs for the finished product. For example, in a 30-liter container, one distillation can produce up to 2.88 liters of pure alcohol (or 7.2 liters of moonshine with a strength of 40%). The maximum mash load is 24 liters (30 * 0.8 = 24). The average strength of properly made mash is 12%. The amount of distillate at the output is 24 * 0.12 = 2.88 (in terms of absolute alcohol with a strength of 100%). In practice, there will always be losses of moonshine of 8-15%.

We should not forget about the dimensions. At a minimum, the distillation cube must be placed on a stove or other heating element, be stable and not block the access to the entire apparatus. This is the basis of safety precautions.

3. Selecting a suitable container. Often, home moonshine stills use containers that were originally intended for other needs: milk cans, pressure cookers, or large enamel pans.

The cube must be reliable - it will expand when heated, and withstand high temperatures and pressure (180-220 Pa). Homemade welded containers are very dangerous, as there is a risk that Weld will burst at the most inopportune moment.

A significant drawback of pressure cooker cubes is their small volume, but these containers are initially airtight. The only modification required is to drill a hole in the lid for the steam outlet tube. described in a separate article.

You can’t distill a lot of mash in a pressure cooker at one time - the volume of the cube is too small

Enameled pans are convenient because the spent mash can not be poured, but can be immediately put into distillation as is (this is wrong, since the heated sediment increases the amount of harmful impurities in the moonshine and worsens the aroma and taste). The disadvantage of the pan is that it is difficult to seal the lid.

A milk can made of aluminum or stainless steel is the most practical solution. The only drawback of cans that requires mandatory elimination is the rubber gasket on the lid. The fact is that alcohol vapor absorbs substances from rubber, this negatively affects the quality, taste and smell of moonshine. Rubber gaskets must be replaced with silicone ones (made from aquarium silicone).

A can with built-in heating elements is cheap and practical. There are two holes on the top for steam and a thermometer.

How to make a distillation cube for a moonshine still from a can

It is not enough to correctly determine the volume of the container; you also need to prepare the cube for use - drill a hole for steam, seal the lid and connections. Next we will look at modifying the container using an old milk can as an example, but this method of sealing the lid is also suitable in other cases.

Can refinement technology:

1. Remove the rubber gasket from the cover.

2. Apply to the metal edges of the aquarium lid silicone sealant and leave until completely dry. Repeat the procedure 2-3 more times.

3. Place cellophane on the neck of the can and close the lid. Leave for a couple of hours until completely dry. You will get a silicone seal that replaces the rubber gasket.

Result

An alternative, simpler method of sealing is to overlap the rubber with several layers of fum tape and boil for 60 minutes in boiling water.

4. Make a hole in the can lid to connect to a coil or steamer. If the internal diameter of the coil is 12 mm, the suitable hole for the pipe in the can is 22 mm and the thread is 0.5 inches. Adapters are sold at plumbing supply stores.

To extend its service life, wash the can after each distillation with soap and plenty of running water. The use of soda and other cleaning products is strictly prohibited.

Moonshine still refrigerator

It consists of two parts - a coil (twisted tube) and a reservoir for cooling this tube. The cooling compartment is the most important element of the entire structure, the functioning of which determines the quantity and quality of moonshine.

Coil parameters

1. Material. It must not react with alcohol (or have minimal contact), be safe and non-toxic, withstand high temperatures (up to 100°C), and have high thermal conductivity. Based on the requirements, four options are possible: copper, aluminum, stainless steel (food grade) and glass.

The most high thermal conductivity Copper has another advantage - comparative ease of processing (soldering is possible). But this material has one feature - the copper coil requires periodic cleaning with vinegar or citric acid with boiling water (preferably after each distillation), otherwise the plaque accumulated after oxidation with alcohol will negatively affect the quality of the moonshine.

All moonshiners complaining about copper do not clean their devices well. In world distilling practice, copper is considered the best or even the only permitted material (France, Scotland) for the manufacture of distillers (alambics). Light oxidation of copper with alcohol helps improve the taste, since it reduces the amount of impurities with a bad odor, and increases the concentration of substances that make moonshine soft.

The second most thermally conductive material for a coil is aluminum (1.6 times worse than copper). The advantages of aluminum are availability, low cost and ease of processing. But there is also a drawback - minimal oxidation, which, unlike copper, does not release useful substances into moonshine, so aluminum coils are not very common.

In terms of thermal conductivity, food grade stainless steel is 3-4 times inferior to copper. But this material does not react with alcohol and does not oxidize. Another disadvantage, along with low thermal conductivity, is the relative complexity of processing.

It is not possible to make a glass coil at home; without special equipment it is easier to buy a ready-made laboratory device. Glass is inert towards alcohol, but is very fragile and has low thermal conductivity.

Copper coil is the best, but requires regular cleaning

2. Dimensions and thickness of the tube. The longer the tube, the larger the contact area of ​​the steam with the cooling element. But there is also by-effect long length - hydraulic resistance increases (condensed vapors move through the tube already in a liquid state), which reduces the distillation speed.

The optimal length of the coil tube (before the bend) is 1.5-2 meters.

The larger the internal diameter of the coil (section), the lower the hydraulic resistance and the more efficient the cooling (due to an increase in the area of ​​contact of the steam with the walls). But the tubes are very large diameter are bulky, require a lot of water for cooling and are difficult to process, so you have to look for a “golden mean”.

The minimum wall thickness increases thermal conductivity, which improves the condensation of alcohol vapors. But tubes that are too thin are very fragile and, with intensive use of the moonshine still, quickly break.

Suitable coil thickness is 0.9-1.1 mm.

3. Orientation in space. There are three connection options: horizontal, vertical and inclined.

All other things being equal, the vertical arrangement of the coil is the most correct, since the condensed moonshine flows into the receiving container by gravity, without creating obstacles to the movement of alcohol vapor. Steam can be supplied to a vertical coil from above or below. To minimize resistance, it is correct to direct the steam to the top.

Refrigerator tank parameters

1. Substance. At home, the coil is cooled with air, water or ice. The vast majority of designs use water cooling as the simplest and most effective.

Air Cooling - beautiful view, but low efficiency

2. Heat removal diagram. Systems can be open (work on running water) and closed (the water remains in the tank without circulating, for example, the coil is lowered into a bucket). In terms of sales and savings closed systems simpler and more profitable, but the coil cools worse, which increases the loss of moonshine and has a bad effect on quality.

The bucket is a classic example of a closed water cooling circuit

Flow circuits are more difficult to manufacture, use more water or energy for pumping (circulating a stable volume of water in order to save money), but they require a smaller reservoir and, all other things being equal, produce a high-quality distillate.

From a properly made refrigerator (coil plus water circulation system), moonshine comes out cold or at room temperature, but not warm or hot. In this case, it is important to select the optimal heating intensity (not to exceed the maximum permissible heat supply power) so that the entire system effectively copes with steam condensation.

3. Direction of water supply. It is correct to supply water to the refrigerator from below, and remove it from above, so that the water moves towards the steam, creating a countercurrent, otherwise Bottom part the coil will not cool well.

Making a refrigerator (cooler)

You will need a copper, aluminum or stainless steel tube 1.5-2 meters long, 8-12 mm in diameter and 0.9-1.1 mm in wall thickness. A plastic or metal pipe with a diameter of 75-80 mm. A drawing of the moonshine still refrigerator is shown in the photo.

Sequencing:

1. Fill the coil tube with sand, soda or other dry, bulk material so that the metal does not flatten when curling. If you don’t have bulk materials on hand, you can simply fill the tube with water and freeze it.

2. Hammer the ends with wooden pegs (chops) so that the sand does not spill out. Can be tightly clamped or soldered. It is advisable to weld a nut on one end.

3. Wind the tube onto any smooth, cylindrical object with an even cross-section of suitable diameter (according to the drawing - 35 mm). The pitch between turns is 12 mm.

The number of turns in the coil is not of fundamental importance; with the values ​​of length, diameter and thickness indicated in the article, it is correct to make a step between turns of 12 mm.

4. Release the ends of the finished coil. Pour out the sand and rinse with water under pressure.

5. Install pipes for water supply and drainage on the cooler body.

6. Place the coil inside the housing. Install plugs at the top and bottom. Seal all connections.

Ready assembled cooler

The operating speed of the cooler of this design is up to 3 liters of moonshine per hour.

Steamer and bubbler

Optional, but desirable (especially for beginners) moonshine still modules.

A steam boiler is a sealed glass or metal container between the distillation cube and the refrigerator, into which the vapors are first cooled, and then some of the substances boil again and move into the coil.

The working principle of a steam steamer. Due to a sharp decrease in pressure (the volumes of the supply tube and the jar differ hundreds of times), the temperature drops, as a result the steam passes into the liquid phase (condenses), but is immediately heated by a new portion of hot steam from the cube, again turning into a gaseous state. But part of the water and fusel oils with high temperature The boils do not have time to boil during this short moment of change in state of aggregation and remain at the bottom of the container.

Bubbler in a moonshine still– a device designed to pass alcohol vapor through a layer of liquid (water). Structurally, it differs from a steam steamer only in the presence of water in the container before distillation begins (not always), and in the fact that the steam supply tube is lowered into the can almost to the bottom. The purpose and principle of operation of the bubbler are the same as that of the steam steamer.

Connected steam tank Bubbler - the steam supply tube is lowered closer to the bottom, the distillate is flavored with lemon zest

Advantages of a steamer (bubbler):

• is protection against splashing - the ingress of mash into the finished moonshine when heated too much;
• makes the distillate stronger;
• cleans moonshine from some fusel oils (only a small part);
• allows you to flavor the alcohol during distillation (just put citrus fruit zest, apple pieces, etc. in a jar).

It is advisable to use one steamer or bubbler in a moonshine still. Consecutive installation of 2-6 pieces only leads to an increase in the strength of the moonshine, but does not affect cleaning.

If the output moonshine is strong, for example, even 80-90 degrees, then this does not mean that the drink is well purified, there is simply water left in the steamers and (or) bubblers, which should have condensed in the coil, reducing the strength of the distillate. All harmful impurities that can be cleaned with a steamer remain in the first jar, and in subsequent jars only water is removed from the moonshine. You should not think that in terms of the degree of purification, 6-8 steamers can replace rectification or fractional distillation; this is physically impossible.

How to make a steamer or bubbler

The volume of the steamer (bubbler) container should be 10 times less than the volume of the distillation cube.

You will need:

• glass jar with a metal lid or other sealed container;
• 2 fittings;
• 2 nuts;
• marker;
• awl;
• heat-resistant glue or cold welding.

Instructions:

1. Mark the diameter of the holes at the intended connection points: attach the fittings to the cover and circle them with a marker.

2. Make holes. The easiest option is to move an awl along the drawn lines until the metal of the lid is rubbed through.

3. Install the fittings and secure with nuts. To seal, process the holes from the outside and inside cold welding or heat-resistant glue.

Inner side

Outer side

Bubbler manufacturing sequence

4. When connecting to a moonshine still, it should be taken into account that in the steamer the inlet tube should be 15-30 mm lower than the outlet tube (lowered deeper into the jar). In a bubbler, the incoming tube runs along the entire height of the jar, without touching the bottom at a distance of 2-3 cm.

If the bubbler is connected incorrectly (steam is supplied through the short end, but tries to escape through the long end), the pressure in the jar increases significantly and an explosion may occur!

There is only one drawback of bubblers and steamers from a jar - there is no drain for the accumulated liquid (you have to unscrew it), and during fractional distillation it is advisable to clean the container before collecting the “body” (the main fraction).

A more complex steamer with drain

Methods for heating a moonshine still

1. Open fire. In most cases, this means heating at gas stove or a burner, but there are also coal and wood. The advantages of this method: simplicity, accessibility and often cost-effectiveness.

Flaws:

• high inertia - it will not be possible to quickly reduce or increase power, as a result, it is difficult to control the temperature in the cube; experience is required;
• it is very difficult to insulate the distillation cube to reduce heat loss in order to save money;
• installation of automation is practically useless;
• high fire hazard of open fire.

Distillation at fresh air firewood. What kind of device, what color of moonshine

2. Built-in electric heating elements. Devices (one or several at once) are mounted directly into the cube. Heating elements made of stainless steel or brass are suitable.

Advantages:

• quick temperature change (high controllability);
• possibility to install automation and insulate the cube.

Flaws:

• solid particles may burn to work surface heating elements, careful filtration of the mash is required before distillation;
• Electric heating is often more expensive than gas heating;
• From time to time the heating elements burn out.

3. Induction cooker. It runs on electricity and can be stationary or portable (used more often in moonshine).

Advantages:

• low inertia – quick change of heating intensity;
• good temperature control - induction cookers are equipped with automation, no need to install separate units;
• in comparison with heating elements, the entire surface of the bottom of the cube is evenly heated; burning of the mash occurs in rare cases.

Flaws:

• the cost of an induction cooker is quite high;
• You can only use distillation cubes made from materials containing a magnet (stainless steel, cast iron), while aluminum and copper containers without magnetic inserts welded to the bottom are not suitable for heating.

On induction cooker Only stainless steel and cast iron cubes can be heated

4. Heating using steam (steam generator). First, the water is brought to a boil and served directly into the container or onto the outer walls. The system allows you to control (automate) the entire process and eliminate the risk of burning, therefore it is suitable for distilling thick mash. But due to the complexity of implementing the design and the need to purchase (manufacture) special equipment (steam generator), it will not be considered further here.

Installing thermometers in a moonshine still

You can do without measuring the temperature, but a correctly installed thermometer allows you to change the container in time during fractional distillation and adjust the heating intensity.

Three types of thermometers are used in moonshine stills (according to the principle of operation):

• bimetallic - a metal tape or spiral acts as a sensor;
• electronic - a special conductor changes resistance when temperature fluctuates;
• digital - measurements are recorded due to changes in pressure.

The most reliable are bimetallic thermometers, but the accuracy of these devices leaves much to be desired. Electronic thermometers are much more accurate, but with the slightest shock they can break or show the wrong temperature. Digital thermometers- leaders in accuracy, but are expensive.

During distillation, you cannot rely entirely on the readings of the thermometer, especially the first time, when the operating modes of the homemade moonshine still have not yet been tested. Temperature values ​​are auxiliary data. At the exit, the moonshine should be cold or at room temperature, and during fractional distillation, divide the output into fractions correctly by pure alcohol, sugar content in the mash or by smell (method of experienced distillers).

Fastening. The thermometer in the moonshine still can be installed at the outlet of the cube (in the upper part) or in front of the entrance to the refrigerator. The second option is preferable, as it allows you to measure the temperature of the steam before condensation. But the thermometer in the cube (the first case) shows the degree of heating of the mash, which is also important. Conclusion: if possible, it is advisable to install two thermometers at once.

Thermometers can be placed on the cube or in front of the refrigerator

For installation, it is enough to make a hole, the diameter of which coincides with the diameter of the thermometer installation cylinder (fastenings with Velcro and plastic clips are not suitable). Secure the cylinder from the inside with a bolt and secure the structure with a nut. Then insert the thermometer itself.

Attention! When starting up for the first time, a home moonshine still should be tested by distilling water, and not immediately filled with mash. Distilling water is safer, immediately shows problems (if any) and thoroughly rinses all parts of the structure.

First you need to decide on the subject of consideration. So, a distillation cube is a sealed container designed for heating and subsequent distillation of mash or initial wort. Speaking in simple language, this is a reservoir in which the initial separation of the mash into fractions occurs, namely, alcohol-containing vapors are released, which are sent further into the system.

It is quite possible to make a distillation cube with your own hands, but to do this you need to have a number of skills and know the general principles of the process. So, in order to make such a container, you need to fulfill several requirements:

• The tank lid must be sealed. Even slight air etching will negatively affect both the efficiency of the evaporation process and quality characteristics the resulting distillate.
• The distillation cube of a moonshine still must have a volume suitable for a certain amount of initial liquid, as well as sufficient for the evaporation process to occur. If this parameter is selected incorrectly, boiling mash will splash out into the outlet tubes, which is extremely undesirable.
• It is necessary to have one or more holes equipped with special fittings.
• The material from which the distillation cube will be made with your own hands must have as little chemical activity as possible, that is, not enter into a chemical reaction with the components of the mash.

Aluminum can is the most popular container for a cube, but not the safest

The main problem when doing work with your own hands will be ensuring tightness. As you can often see, the distillation cube of an old moonshine still was made from an ordinary milk flask. In general, this option is quite working, however, careful modification of the lid is necessary, since standard option did not provide for the formation of internal pressure.

Among other things, the tank can be equipped with a built-in heating element, which will act as a heating element and ensure the operation of the system.

Types of stills

Based on the materials used in manufacturing and some structural differences, the distillation cube can be of several types.

• Aluminum flask. This option is distinguished by its large volume, accessibility and ease of operation, and almost every person with basic skills in handling the tool can do it with their own hands. However, such a tank is quite bulky, unaesthetic, and aluminum oxidizes over time, which leads to a decrease in the quality of the resulting product. It is also worth considering that a system equipped with a flask container will not function if an induction cooker is used.
• Pressure cooker. You can make a reservoir for evaporating mash with your own hands from a household pressure cooker. Among the advantages are ease of use, functionality and compactness, but such a capacity will have modest performance.
• Beer keg. Beer kegs can be used to make a distillation tank. These barrels are made of stainless steel and are sealed. You can select the required volume, and with some modifications, equip such a tank with the necessary sensors, for example, a thermometer. You can do all the work yourself, which means you can save money. A still from a beer keg is the most preferred option for making a moonshine still.
• Ready-made tanks. To make a distillation cube for a moonshine still, you can purchase ready-made containers produced at the factory. Such a product will have all the necessary properties, but its use will require financial investments.
• Pot. The simplest tank for distilling mash can be made from an ordinary enamel pan. You will need to make a special gasket with your own hands to ensure tightness, and also equip a locking system.

You can install the heating element yourself

Among other things, the elements of the moonshine still under consideration may differ in the method of heating the mash. So you can distinguish between containers with external heating and tanks equipped with built-in heating element. A distillation cube with a heating element is quite convenient and does not require the use of external heating devices. The use of such a device is possible in any place where there is an electrical outlet, which makes it an ideal country option.

Operating principle of a distillation cube

• The present mash is poured into the container, after which the lid is sealed.
• Next, the liquid is heated. This can be either with the help of external heating devices or with the use of built-in elements, if it is a distillation cube with a heating element. It is important to take into account here that the primary evaporation of alcohol-containing vapor begins to occur already at a temperature of about 80 degrees Celsius. To increase the efficiency of the process, additional insulation of the container can be carried out.
• The mash is brought to a boil, and high pressure is formed inside the container, as a result of which the vapors move further through the system.

Secondary separation of steam into fractions is carried out in a steam steamer and a bubbler, if they are provided for in the design. It does not seem appropriate to talk about how to make a bubbler within the framework of this article, but information can be obtained from other materials.

How to make a still

To fully understand the issue, it is necessary to consider the process of making a distillation cube from a beer keg and a saucepan, as the most common options.

Cube from a pan

If the tank for distilling mash is planned to be made from a saucepan, then the actions will be carried out in several stages:

• First you need to purchase a container of suitable volume. As mentioned above, this parameter should be selected based on the expected volumes of raw materials and the free volume that must remain to ensure vaporization.
• Next, at some distance from the neck, special locking devices are fixed that will hold and seal the lid. You can attach the latches to any in an accessible way(welding, rivets) the main thing is to ensure the tightness of the connection.
• It is necessary to drill holes in the lid and screw into them special fittings necessary for attaching the thermometer and pressure gauge.
• At some distance from the bottom of the pan, a hole is drilled, the diameter of which must correspond to the fitting installed for draining the stillage.

The main issue that you should pay attention to when assembling such a distillation tank is ensuring its tightness. For these purposes, previously, ordinary dough was often used, but now it is more expedient and convenient to use special silicone gaskets and sealants.

Distillation cube from a beer keg

You can also make a distillation container from an ordinary beer keg. To do this, purchase a barrel of the required volume. Next, a hole is drilled in the lid to install the thermometer. A thread is cut in the hole, and the same is cut on the tube that will be screwed into it. Thus, a fitting is formed that will allow convenient installation and removal of the sensor.

At some distance from the bottom of the keg or in its bottom, a hole is drilled to drain the stillage, into which a special fitting will be installed. The tank lid already has a technological hole that will be used to connect the tubes through which alcohol-containing steam will be supplied further through the system.

To simplify the process of heating the mash inside the distillation cube, the tank can be additionally insulated from the outside. For these purposes, for example, foil material intended for vapor barrier of premises can be used.

There are quite a lot of ways to make a distillation cube for a moonshine still. If you have certain experience and tools, you can carry out the work yourself. Choose the most for yourself suitable option everyone can.