A relative of petunia, calibrachoa (calibrochia) is gradually gaining popularity among gardeners. In addition to abundant flowering, they are attracted by the simple process of caring for interesting flower. Let's take a closer look at calibrachoa - varieties, methods of propagation and subtleties of cultivation.

Description

Externally, the flower is very similar to petunia, because for a long time it was believed that these were the same plant. In 1990, scientists classified them into different genera, the reason being genetic differences. Petunia DNA contains 14 chromosomes, calibrachoa - 18.

The external differences of Calibrachoa are obvious:

• the base of the corolla is colored yellow;
• leaflets 1 cm wide and do not exceed 4 cm in length;
• the structure of the strong stem is woody, it looks like a young shoot of a bush;
• Calibrachoa flowers are smaller, usually 3 cm, their number is much greater.

Calibrachoa is often sold under the name "ampeloid petunia" or "surfinia". To avoid mistakes, pay attention to the details:

• flower size – up to 3 cm;
• the color of the flower's throat is yellow;
• The stem is strong and dense.

Popular varieties

The most popular calibrachoa varieties are:

• Million Bells is the most extensive line of varieties, including 18 items that differ in the color of the corollas;
• Cabaret includes 12 forms, the predominant color of the flowers is white, the branches grow to a length of more than a meter;
• Kablum has deep blue bell flowers, the length of the shoots is up to half a meter;
• Mini Famous Double Pink - a line with large (about 4 cm) double flowers, painted in various shades of pink. Shoot length – up to 70 cm;
• Noa – a variety series of two-color calibrachoa of 6 names; the central part and base of the petals are different from the main tone, the length of the branches is up to 50 cm;
• Bells – 8 positions, the color of the variety’s flowers varies from yellow-orange to rich burgundy. The branches grow up to 1 m.

Calibrachoa is grown as hanging plant, although it is not such. But long flexible shoots sloping down make it possible to create cascading compositions in hanging flowerpots.

How to grow calibrachoa?

Calibrachoa is grown as an ampel plant using flowerpots large sizes, hanging planters, baskets, balcony boxes. Less often, the flower is planted in open ground - in an ordinary flower bed it is difficult to protect it from winds, drafts and precipitation.

Location and lighting

For calibrachoa - no matter whether it grows in a pot or in a flower bed - certain conditions are required.

1. The sun's rays should illuminate the plant in the morning or before sunset. The midday sun burns the leaves; at this time it is recommended to shade the flowers. The optimal location is south or southeast direction.
2. Protection from wind, which can cause severe cooling of the soil and roots, “kill” the decorativeness of the above-ground part - break shoots, dishevel a beautiful cap delicate flowers. Drafts are extremely undesirable.

The leaves and flowers of calibrachoa are sensitive to water falling from above, so it is advisable to place the plants under canopies that protect from rain.

Soil composition and planting capacity

Calibrachoa loves loams and sandstones, but is not capricious on other soils. The main thing is the fertility and looseness of the substrate, the pH value is neutral or slightly acidic. To increase fertility, the soil mixture is supplemented with a small amount of slow-soluble fertilizers.

Optimal composition:

• peat;
• humus;
• turf land;
• sand.

The volume of the container is calculated by the number of plants planted in it - at least 3 liters for each.

Drainage is required: calibrachoa has a negative attitude towards stagnation of moisture. Experts recommend adding hydrogel to the substrate - it will take away all excess water and then gradually return it to the soil.

Care

Lush, long-lasting flowering of calibrachoa is achieved by following the rules of care. Let's get acquainted with all the subtleties.

Watering

Water the plants moderately - it is easier for a flower to develop in dry soil than in waterlogged soil. After watering, the substrate should be slightly damp. Best time– early morning or light twilight.

Much higher value has a spray of calibrachoa. She reacts to humid air with greater gratitude. The plant is moistened with a fine sprayer daily, on hot days - 3-4 times a day.

Spray only when the plant is not exposed to the sun. At the same time, the root parts are protected from moisture.

Feeding

Feed the flowers weekly using complex fertilizers. When selecting complexes, it is important to consider that when planting, the plant needs more nitrogen to lush flowering– potassium and phosphorus.

If the development of calibrachoa has slowed down, growth stimulants are added to the feeding.

For feeding, you can use complexes for petunias; in this regard, they have the same tastes.

Formation

Calibrachoa shoots grow quickly; you can maintain the beautiful shape of the bush by pruning and pinching the shoots.

1. Pinching is done while growing seedlings, stimulating the formation of side shoots.
2. The first time pruning is associated with the end of the flowering of the first flowers - as soon as the petals begin to fade, the flowers are cut off, allowing the plant to direct its energy to the formation of new shoots and buds.
3. In mid-summer, the shoots are radically pruned, shortening them by about half. Dry, diseased, broken twigs and leaves are removed regularly as they appear.

Calibrachoa tolerates pruning easily, almost immediately starting to grow replacements - fresh, bright, with buds.

Wintering

Calibrachoa – perennial, in winter it is kept in a state of semi-rest, moving it to a room with a temperature of + 10–12 ° C. Water sparingly during this period; fertilizing is not required.

It has been noticed that after wintering the flower seems to lose its vitality, grows poorly, and the number of buds decreases. Typically, winter rest is used for cutting and rooting cuttings.

Reproduction

The most common methods are planting by seeds and cuttings. Both methods have their advantages and disadvantages.

Growing from seeds

When starting to grow calibrachoa from seeds, you need to take into account the fact that offspring grown from self-collected seed will in most cases not be similar to their parent. Instead of a bush with pink double flowers, for example, a bush with tiny, few purple flowers can grow. A guaranteed beautiful, lushly flowering bush is grown from “professional” seeds purchased in specialized stores.

Calibrachoa seedlings need careful care because they are very vulnerable at a young age.

The cultivation technology consists of the following stages.

1. Sowing is carried out at the end of winter or at the very beginning of spring.
2. Seeds (if necessary) are soaked during the day with a solution of “Epin” or “Zircon” or stimulants homemade(honey, aloe juice).
3. The ideal medium for germination is peat tablets. They are moderately saturated with water, and the seeds are spread on the surface. When sowing a large number of seeds, use a mixture of peat, compost, sand and garden soil with the addition of mineral complexes, which is filled with a seedling box.
4. Seeds are germinated in greenhouses, maintaining high humidity and temperature 18-20°C.
5. The crops are kept in a well-lit place, but not in the sun, with additional illumination up to 15-16 hours a day. For the night lighting fixtures turn off.
6. Crops are moistened by spraying 3-4 times a day, watered daily with warm water.
7. With the appearance of sprouts, the greenhouse begins to be ventilated, the seedlings are gradually accustomed to sunlight. The shelter is usually removed when the seedlings are 4-5 days old.

When the cover is removed, the peat tablets are watered with a small amount of water with potassium permanganate. The appearance of the first leaves is “celebrated” by watering with vitamin B12 (1 ml - standard ampoule - per 300 ml of water).

Water the seedlings with warm soft water, melted or filtered. Feed once a week with complex fertilizers at the rate of a quarter of the dose intended for an adult plant per seedling. It is recommended to alternate root and foliar feeding.

When the roots begin to support the mesh of the tablet, the seedlings are transferred (without destroying the tablet!) into cups with holes for drainage excess moisture. A drainage layer is placed at the bottom of the containers, and the free space is filled with nutrient substrate. The top of the seedling is pinched.

On permanent place– in flowerpots, flowerpots, boxes – seedlings are planted when steadily warm weather with temperatures above 20°C sets in.

When growing calibrachoa from seeds, pay attention to the need for pre-sowing treatment. Not all varieties and forms require the use of stimulants. For example, seeds of the Kabloum variety series germinate without additional stimulation.

Cuttings

Cuttings are either cut in winter, when the flower is resting and metabolic processes slow down, or shoots remaining after formative pruning are used. Their quality is the same - both take root well.

• The best cuttings are the tips of the shoots, about 6 cm long, with 4 or 5 leaves. A couple of the bottom ones are removed, and half of the leaf plate is cut off for the remaining ones.
• The substrate for rooting is light, with a high peat content. A store-bought universal one for indoor plants will do.
• The cuttings are planted, buried a quarter deep, moistened and covered with a transparent lid to maintain high humidity.
• Rooting conditions: temperature about 20°C, bright diffused lighting, absence of drafts and sudden temperature changes.
• Greenhouses are ventilated daily.
• Water twice a day using a spray bottle. The soil should be moderately moist.

The cuttings are planted in small pots after 3-4 weeks: in two weeks they will sprout roots, a week or two will be needed to strengthen them.

Before planting in pots, calibrachoa cuttings are cared for like houseplants - moderate watering and fertilizing.

If by the time of transplantation the bush has grown excessively, a new batch of cuttings is cut from it and rooted.

Diseases and pests

Calibrachoa at proper care and timely application of fertilizing, it is rarely exposed to diseases and pest attacks. If flowering has sharply decreased, external signs of ill health are noticeable - we are looking for the cause.

When choosing a drug to treat a plant or kill insect pests, preference is given to less toxic ones, since most of them are designed for use in open ground conditions over large spaces.

Growing calibrachoa in the garden or on the balcony of a high-rise building is a fascinating activity that does not require special knowledge and is accessible to novice gardeners. The flower will reward you with colorful blooms for proper care.

Calibrachoa, a flower that relatively recently began to appear in our flower beds, nevertheless managed to fall in love with many gardeners and flower growers for its colorful blooms. We assure you that growing and caring for calibrachoa will be a pleasure for you. You can learn all the nuances that need to be taken into account from this article. And you can easily grow this amazing flower on your own in your flowerbed or balcony.

Preparing to plant a house

Calibrachoa is so similar to petunia, but it is different flowers, and their care varies. At home, this plant is grown in flower pots: both on the balcony and in the apartment.

Selecting a location

You need to choose a place to place a flower pot in a well-lit room. Calibrachoa loves light very much, but does not tolerate drafts. Therefore, if this plant is planted in flowerpots, hanging boxes, or flower pots, then you need to place and hang them in places where there are no drafts - where the flower will be reliably protected from the wind. If the flower grows in hanging boxes or pots on a balcony without a roof, then during heavy rain you will need to bring the pot into the room or under a canopy.

Choosing a pot and preparing the soil mixture

There is a great variety of shapes and materials on sale. flower pots, by wisely choosing and alternating them, you can create beautiful mini-gardens with calibrachoas of different colors.

When choosing a pot for a future plant, you need to take into account that one calibrachoa bush needs 3-5 liters of soil. Most often, gardeners use containers and flowerpots with a volume of five and seven liters. A pot that is too big and pot-bellied is not needed, root system plants simply will not be able to master it. But you need to remember that the smaller the dishes, the smaller the calibrachoa bush will grow.

The flower pot must be chosen taking into account where it will be located. If you need a container for an open balcony, then it is better to give preference to plastic pots and boxes. They retain moisture longer hot weather and does not evaporate through the walls. At the same time, the soil warms up well, and this has a very positive effect on the growth of the root system.

“If a plant in a pot is placed in direct sunlight, the soil will overheat, which will negatively affect the growth of the flower and cause burns on the leaves. Therefore, for protection, you need to place the flower pot in a wider pot. At the same time, the circulation volume will increase significantly, which will avoid overheating of the earth.”

Another plus plastic pots the fact that they are light and practical - more flowers will fit on the windowsill. The plant prefers loose and fertile soil. To improve the quality of planting soil, vermiculite is added. Can be used organic fertilizers, such as compost and humus.

Fresh manure is not added when planting, because the flower will get sick and die - the plant does not like acidic soils. These need to be deoxidized; for this, fluff lime or dolomite flour is used. Also for good growth and flowering, mineral fertilizers are added to the soil: superphosphate and phosphorus-potassium.

Gardening stores sell special soil for flower crops. Remember, purchased soil must be loose and contain peat, perlite and vermiculite. For prevention planting material treated with a fungicide solution, for example, in Fitosporin. It prevents the appearance of fungal diseases of the flower. Flowerpots and flowerpots must have drainage. It will ensure the drainage of excess water from the roots and prevent them from rotting in case of overflow.

Advice: “It’s easy to overwater Calibrachoa when watering, thereby provoking rotting of the roots due to excessive dampness of the soil, so you can’t do without drainage in pots.”

For drainage, use small pebbles or buy ready-made drainage in the store. It is placed on the bottom of the pot in a layer of 3 cm, covered with sand on top and only then with the required amount of prepared soil.

Landing dates

Calibrachoa seeds are sown around the same period as petunia. Optimal time for sowing - February or early March. Cuttings can be planted all spring.

If you grow seedlings from seeds, you must constantly spray the soil, preventing it from becoming covered with a dry crust. To reduce evaporation, a film is placed over the boxes with planted seeds.

When the daytime temperature returns to normal and reaches 22°C, the plant is transplanted to a permanent place in the garden or pots and boxes are taken out to the balcony.

Selection and preparation of planting material

To increase the number of seedlings, various germination-stimulating drugs are used. To do this, the seeds are soaked for 24 hours and then dried on a paper towel. But this option does not guarantee one hundred percent germination.

Planting methods and techniques

Prepared seeds are planted to a depth of half a centimeter in moist soil. Then the container is covered with glass or film until shoots appear, not forgetting to spray the crops twice a day. Bring pots with planted seeds into dark place This is impossible, otherwise you won’t be able to wait for calibrachoa seedlings to emerge. The plant loves the sun and grows only in the light. But direct rays are also undesirable.

Water the emerging shoots only with settled warm water. The most convenient way to grow the crop is by cuttings. You will have to tinker more with the seeds. Adult plants look most interesting in hanging pots and flowerpots - after all, the length of the stems of an adult calibrachoa reaches one and a half meters. Therefore this garden flower used for vertical gardening of loggias and estates.

Advice: “The plant does not like too frequent watering and easily tolerates the driest conditions. summer periods. This is another reason to grow this beautiful and delicate flower.”

Caring for Calibrachoa at home

Basic care for any calibrachoa variety consists of five points.

1. Good lighting.
2. Properly prepared soil.
3. Sufficient feeding.
4. Protection from drafts.
5. Sufficient, but not excessive watering.

It doesn’t matter where exactly this flower is grown: on a loggia, in an apartment or in open ground, the main thing is that the place is well lit. The second important factor is watering the plant. If it is regular and sufficient, then the flower can easily cope with any heat. But during drought, scorching bright light can harm the flower. Shaded places are completely contraindicated for Calibrachoa. With a lack of light, a plant stops blooming and loses its bright color. green leaves and begins to wither and may even die. Wind protection is also an important component of care. The plant must be protected from drafts and gusts of wind.

In addition, additional light lamps are installed at home to support necessary conditions illumination and temperature regime.

Lighting, temperature and humidity

Temperature upon landing outdoors must be at least 20°C. The plant is afraid of intense heat, that is, the sun is definitely not suitable for the flower. The best option there will be a place for planting where the sun's rays warm the earth equally: both in the morning and in the evening.

Advice: “You cannot leave the flower outdoors at temperatures below 12°C.”

Moderate or slightly increased air humidity is suitable for calibrachoa. If the heat lasts too long, then containers with water are placed around the flower to humidify the air. In winter, by the way, too.

Top dressing

Fertilizing is carried out once every two weeks, no more often, and it is better to use complex fertilizers, then you won’t have to guess which microelements calibrachoa is missing. Spraying is combined with foliar fertilizer; most often a solution is used for this. succinic acid. Thanks to this, the plant blooms vigorously and for a long time.

Watering

IN summer heat Spraying is carried out at least twice a day. For normal growth, flowering and development, the flower requires slightly moist soil. But it’s worth remembering that you shouldn’t fill it with water. In addition, this fragile plant does not tolerate heavy rains, which, if prolonged, can contribute to the complete cessation of calibrachoa flowering.

Pinching

To improve the flowering of an adult plant, it is necessary to pinch the calibrachoa above the fifth leaf - this will stimulate the appearance of side shoots. Then the plant will delight the owner for a long time with delicate and bright inflorescences. You can re-pinch after 14 days, but it is not necessary.

Pruning calibrachoa

Bushes are formed to preserve a long period of decorativeness and beauty of the flower, as well as the duration of flowering. To do this, prune already withered inflorescences. This way the plant will not waste energy on the seed and will use all its vitality for lush flowering.

Regular pinching and pruning of the long stems of the plant will ensure that the bushes bloom all summer.

Overwintering Calibrachoa

Overwintering of the perennial hummingbird takes place indoors. If it is not possible to place the flower away from the radiator, cover it. After two weeks of Calibrachoa’s stay in the apartment, its stems are shortened by half and watering is reduced, and no fertilizing is used. Some gardeners replace watering with abundant spraying. From cut shoots you can get cuttings for new bushes, but only if the new plants are additionally illuminated. In this way, calibrachoa can be preserved in winter and new plants can be obtained.

Susceptibility to diseases and pests

During the growing season, this plant in the garden runs the risk of attracting pests or getting sick. Most often, damage to calibrachoa is caused by aphids, spider mite, thrips and whitefly. The plant is also threatened fungal diseases, For example:

• "blackleg";
• powdery mildew;
• root rot.

When you get sick, the first thing to do is reduce watering. Plantings are treated with any fungicide. And to get rid of chlorosis, use fertilizers and fertilizers that contain iron.

Reproduction methods

Calibrachoa is propagated by cuttings and seeds. More often, gardeners use the first method, it is less labor-intensive. Poor seed germination also encourages this.

Propagation of calibrachoa by cuttings

Propagation of calibrachoa by cuttings does not require special skills. Cuttings are taken from an adult bush. They should have at least 4-5 leaves. The leaves on the cuttings are torn off, leaving only the top two. For planting, use light soil; plant cuttings a third of their length into the ground. The distance between the cuttings should be at least two centimeters. Rooting of cuttings takes at least two weeks.

Seed propagation of Calibrachoa

They begin to sow seeds for seedlings early, at the end of February. When sowing the seeds you need to be careful; for this flower they are small and easy to scatter. The loosened soil is moistened and the seeds are scattered over the surface, lightly pressing them. Spray the top with water and cover with film or glass. In cold climates, it is difficult to get seedlings from the windowsill; to do this, place a lamp above the box with seedlings. You can attach a description of the planted variety to the box so you don’t forget.

Seedlings begin to sprout after a month and a half, removing weak and thin shoots. Do not spare them: from weak sprouts of strong flowers with good flowering don't get it.

Popular Calibrachoa varieties

Breeders have developed many different varietal series of calibrachoa. The varieties differ from each other in the shape and color of the flowers. There are ordinary inflorescences, and there is also double calibrachoa. All characteristic differences depend on the variety, the flowers of the most large species vary in diameter from 3.5 to 4 cm.

Varietal series of Calibrachoa “Kablum”

This varietal species was the very first to appear in our area. Low bushes, no more than 25-30 cm, with abundant flowering. The color range of inflorescences in this series is varied: white, blue, yellow, dark pink.

Calibrachoa varietal series Super Bells

The series includes eight varieties. Flowers are up to 3.5 cm in diameter, the flower grows up to one meter. The color of the inflorescences varies, ranging from yellow to dark burgundy. The variety is distinguished by abundant flowering. It is also worth noting that this series has high resistance to diseases of the root system. This species is also resistant to bad weather conditions such as rain and hail. Flowers are planted in hanging flowerpots, balcony boxes and pots; flowers can be used both in composition plantings and separately.

Calibrachoa varietal series “million bells”

This is one of the most common series. During flowering, it is so densely covered with flowers that sometimes the leaves are almost invisible. That's why this series received such an unusual, but telling name. Mature bushes reach a height of up to one and a half meters. The series includes 18 varieties of different colors. As you can see, growing and caring for calibrachoa is simple. And by observing preventive measures, you will ensure that the perennial will delight you with lush and long flowering more than one year.

Calibrachoa is an ampel-type plant with a large number of bell-shaped flowers located on a large spherical bush. Recently, it has been widely popular among gardeners and hobbyists for decorating gardens, galleries and more. It is also decorated in hanging flowerpots.

More and more often you can find this plant as a decoration for the outside of balconies and windows. They look absolutely gorgeous, improve the unsightly nature of the building and are simply pleasing to the eye. The number of flowers is really so great that it is almost impossible to count, which is why it is popularly called “A Million Bells”.

Varieties and types

Calibrachoa flowers initially had only purple shades, and after they were carried out selection work, new colors appeared: white, pink, cherry, yellow and blue.

The main feature of the flowers is that they have a heterogeneous color. Moreover, this is not a smooth transition of one color, but two different ones with a clear boundary, for example: pink and yellow, dark purple and pink, white and pink, white and yellow, etc.

After breeding work was carried out, a huge variety of species and varieties of this flower appeared. The most striking are the following:

Calibrachoa Kablum series has four varieties:

• Kabloom Deep Blue (very dark violet-blue shade);

• Kabloom Deep Pink (bright pink-raspberry color);

• White Kabloom (delicate white or slightly milky color);

• Kablum Yellow (rich yellow hue).

Chameleon is a representative of a new species of calibrachoa, the flowers of which are semi-double and vary in color. The bushes are medium in size.

Calibrachoa hybrid Tequila Sunrise - a new bred species that has a very impressive coloring: the main color is yellow with rich veins forming a star shape. The shoots are highly branched and form a spherical bush with a diameter of 35-40 cm.

From the series of ampelous flowers, it has double semicircular flowers of bright colors.

Calibrachoa cultivation and care

For favorable growth of calibrachoa, it is necessary to provide it with comfortable conditions habitat, namely: good illumination (lots of light, but not the scorching midday sun).

No drafts (for example, open and too drafty balconies or open areas with frequent gusts of wind), the soil is light (slightly acidic or neutral) and well-drained.

Watering Calibrachoa

You need to be very careful when watering. Avoid overwatering, otherwise the roots will rot very quickly.

But it is necessary to moisten the flower regularly, especially on hot days. Spray 3-4 times a day, but not at the moment when the sun hits the bush directly.

Calibrachoa fertilizer

Plants are fertilized every week. During propagation, seedlings are fertilized with a composition containing nitrogen, and during flowering - with a large amount of potassium and phosphorus.

Soil for calibrachoa

The soil should consist of a mixture of humus, peat, turf and leaf soil with the addition of sand. The amount of each component can be different, the main thing is that the substrate is sufficiently loose, but moisture-absorbing.

A layer of drainage (about 5 cm) is poured onto the bottom of the pot or box, then applied required quantity substrate, watered with mineral fertilizers, seedlings are laid and sprinkled with the rest of the soil around them.

Seedlings are planted in boxes and flowerpots very tightly - about 60-70 seedlings per square meter, to ensure lush flowering.

Overwintering Calibrachoa

Many people think that this is annual plant and therefore get rid of it at the end of the season, but in fact, if you keep this plant in a cool and humid room, for example, a glazed balcony with an air temperature that does not fall below 5-10 ° C above zero, and if Calibrachoa overwinters, then in the spring Cuttings are cut from it and rooted (for further propagation), and the bush itself can bloom again.

Pruning calibrachoa

During the flowering period to maintain a beautiful appearance, they “clean up” the bush - wilted flowers and leaves are torn off, and during the period of weakening flowering, somewhere in the middle of summer, the stems are pruned to half their length, which will serve as a good stimulation for the growth and branching of young shoots and, accordingly, an increase in flower ovaries ( even more flowers).

Calibrachoa propagation by cuttings

To do this, at the end of summer (or at the beginning of autumn), the upper young shoots 5-6 cm long are cut off (breaking off lower leaves) and planted in light, moist soil. Then they cover glass jar or cropped plastic bottle, to create a greenhouse that promotes rooting.

This greenhouse should be ventilated for a couple of minutes every day. Once the plant has taken root, it can be cared for as usual. indoor plant. The plant tolerates winter well.

In the spring, the apical shoots from these bushes are cut off again and rooted - from them flowering calibrachoa are obtained.

Calibrachoa growing from seeds

With such propagation, there is one significant disadvantage - the plant will not inherit the maternal characteristics, for example, the color and size of flowers.

For sowing, take a peat tablet, which is soaked in boiling water, wait until it cools completely. To avoid blackleg disease, peat tablet water with water and a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

After about a week, the seeds will begin to hatch, when the first leaves appear, it is necessary to ventilate the seedlings from time to time. After a couple of days they will get used to the dry room air and you can remove the film.

Diseases and pests

If you violate the conditions for caring for a flower, then there is a high probability of encountering a problem such as blackleg - a fungal infection, in the fight against which it is necessary to use preparations containing mancozeb and oxadixil.

If ordinary garden soil is used to grow calibrachoa, this can be fraught with a number of consequences, for example: death due to root rot; development of chlorosis (symptoms: weakened plant with pale yellowed leaves).

Treatment of chlorosis begins with reducing the amount of watering and treating the entire flower with preparations containing iron chelate.

Today the topic: how to preserve calibrachoa at home in winter is incredibly relevant. Considering that the plant is classified as a perennial, and besides, it is expensive to buy cuttings on the market every year, we must try to organize a comfortable period of rest for the mother plant and an easy spring awakening.

For active growth of any decorative culture strength is needed. This is a period of rest

Experience shows that calibrachoa in most cases survives wintering safely. With the onset of spring, the plant actively “rejuvenates” and blooms profusely.

There are different methods for preserving the mother liquor and rooted cuttings of calibrachoa:

• on the windowsill;
• in the refrigerator;
• in the basement.

Let’s figure out which of the proposed options should be considered the most reliable and effective.

Methods for wintering calibrachoa

Indoors

It happens that the first frost has already occurred outside, but the calibrachoa bush continues to bloom. Of course, by September or October, a few bells remain on the stems, however, this is not a reason to say goodbye to the plant.

You should bring the pot indoors, place it on the windowsill and continue with your usual care. First of all, we are talking about moderate watering and organizing additional lighting.

When the last bud fades, you need to provide the plant with:

• stable temperature within 12-18 degrees;
• moderate watering once every 7-10 days.

In this case, heating devices should be kept away from the hanging stems of Calibrachoa. Hot air from a battery can cause blackening of the vegetative mass.

Note! Reduced air temperature in the room helps to stop the growth of perennials. Thanks to this measure, when there is a lack of lighting, the stems do not stretch and do not lose their decorative effect!

Overflow, as well as drying out of the earth clod - common reason death of the plant. Important! Excess water causes the vegetative mass to wilt. A beginner may interpret this signal incorrectly and, on the contrary, continue to flood the roots. The difficulty in caring for perennials in winter is maintaining moderate soil moisture and... air.

Is it worth replanting calibrachoa with the onset of cold weather if the roots become crowded in its original pot? No. This procedure should be postponed until spring.

Once every 1-1.5 months, the mother liquor should be fed with mineral fertilizers with chelates or phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. Experience shows that in this case, overwintered plants look much better and healthier.

Note! Calibrachoa cuttings rooted in August-September tolerate the “dormant period” much easier than 1-2 year old plants and bloom earlier.

In the basement

As already noted, in conditions middle zone In Russia, as well as in its remote corners, calibrachoas are classified as annuals. Gardeners have come to terms with the fact that for each season they have to order young cuttings or sow seeds for seedlings in advance (in February).

With the arrival of autumn, hanging baskets are freed up for new calibrachoa. Mature bushes are thrown into the trash. And in vain.

Plants really cannot tolerate subzero temperatures and severe frosts, but if you bring the container with calibrachoa into the basement for the winter, then in the spring you can restart the growth of the vegetative mass and achieve abundant flowering of your favorite variety.

Preparing for winter:

• long branches of calibrachoa are cut off, leaving ±8-10 cm from the root;
• The soil is watered in moderation (without stagnation of water).

The basement should be quite humid and cool (up to +10⁰С). Additional lighting is not provided. The plant is stored until about mid-February.

Do not be alarmed by the poor appearance of calibrachoa (in particular, the drying out of the greenery) after wintering in the basement. In the absence of light and heat, it simply cannot be otherwise, convinces Elena Gavrilova: http://www.razmnojenie.ru/kolonka/zametki/calibrachoa.html.

This is how the perennial looks sad after a dark, damp winter. This is temporary

Soon (around March), when the pot is placed on the windowsill in the room, the plant will quickly recover - it will produce young shoots, grow branches, leaves, and buds.

Note! Overwintered calibrachoas often suffer from chlorosis. It is better to use iron-containing preparations before the bush blooms, otherwise the opened buds will instantly lose their decorative effect. To help - a weak solution of citric acid.

In the refrigerator

What should gardeners do who are not cellar owners, but grow so many flowers that placing pots on the windowsill is simply unrealistic? There is a way out. You can overwinter calibrachoa (at least 1-2 cuttings) in the refrigerator.

The advantages of this storage method:

• stable low air temperature (+1-+3⁰С);
• optimal soil moisture without additional watering.

• the need for regular ventilation of the plant;
• shortened (about 2 months) rest period;
• the deplorable condition of the flower due to the death of stems and leaves.

After the container with calibrachoa returns to the windowsill, the mother plant will definitely throw out new shoots and begin to actively increase the vegetative mass.

During this period, it is important to feed the plant with phosphorus-potassium, nitrogen or mineral compounds.

Reminder! To prevent chlorosis, you can add citric acid to water.

Fertilizers in winter

Should Calibrachoa be fertilized during dormancy? This is the most controversial issue among gardeners. Some believe that in order to better preserve calibrachoa until spring, you just need to water the soil in a timely manner, others insist on adding mineral or phosphorus-potassium preparations.

Practice shows that fertilizing really has a positive effect on the condition of plants and increases their immunity. The main thing is not to abuse the concentration and dilute the solutions by half as weak as indicated in the annotation for the period of active growth.

Fertilizers for feeding in winter:

• Uniflor;
• Gumi;
• Fertikalux;
• other mineral, organic compounds.

Is it possible to preserve calibrachoa in winter without additional measures?

Practice shows that individual plants survive well on the windowsill without the organization of lighting, fertilizing and low temperature. Against all odds, Calibrachoa waits for spring, and with increasing daylight hours, without additional stimuli, it begins to grow.

Gardeners do not undertake to explain such an “exception to the rule,” but they claim that they have repeatedly encountered such situations. This means that wintering calibrachoa in a city apartment with heating devices, dry air and drafts is not a myth, but a reality.

Conclusion

Calibrachoa is a garden perennial that does not overwinter outside. Caring for the plant during the dormant period is not difficult, every gardener can do it.

Failures are a matter of everyday life. Any gardener will confirm that there are situations when a flower does not want to grow with the most first-class care and, on the contrary, surprises with its beauty with minimal attention. So it is with calibrachoa. Through trial and error, you can find your own way of storing perennials.

“Garden, vegetable garden, do it yourself” shares his personal experience:

– An interesting plant that recently appeared in the homes of florists. It is easy to confuse it with petunia, which has long settled in many apartments. In fact, until the 90s, calibrachoa was considered a type of petunia, but then it was proven that at the genetic level it is a completely different plant.

A lot of time has passed since then, but to this day many do not recognize the new name and simply classify calibrachoa as petunias. This article will introduce you to this wonderful plant and highlight the differences and advantages that calibrachoa has over petunia.

Difference between calibrachoa and petunia

Calibrachoa is often called “surfinia” or “ampeloid petunia” by unlucky sellers. This is done to attract buyers who are already familiar with petunia or surfinia. Sometimes it is very difficult to tell whether it is a calibrachoa or another plant, so look at the main differences:

1. We look at the pharynx at the base of the corolla. If it is yellow in color, it is Calibrachoa. Any other color is fake.
2. Leaf size – best difference. True calibrachoa has very small leaves, about 1 cm wide and no more than 4 cm long.
3. Woody stem. Calibrachoa has a denser stem, unlike petunia.

Did you know? The genus Calibrachoa was established back in 1825, but the most valuable species were introduced only in 1990, when it turned out that 4 DNA chromosomes separate Calibrachoa from petunias.

Optimal growing conditions for calibrachoa

Growing calibrachoa is not troublesome. If you prepare good soil for the plant and choose right place planting, then in the future the plant will not be “capricious” or sick.

Location and lighting

The plant must be positioned so that it receives the sun's rays, and at the same time it does not suffer from drafts and north winds. Calibrachoa does not like midday sun, so try to shade the plant when the sun is at its zenith. If you don't do this, the sensitive leaves may burn.

The wind not only greatly cools the soil and roots, but can also break shoots or knock down flowers. Thus, if you live on the top floor of a high-rise building, then calibrahoa open balcony It's better not to post it. Find a place where there is a minimum of wind and maximum morning and evening sun.

Soil: composition and fertilizer

When selecting soil, you should pay attention only to fertility. The flower prefers loamy or sandy loam soils, but other humus-rich substrates are also suitable. The soil composition should include peat, humus, turf soil and sand. The soil should be light, loose, with a neutral or slightly acidic pH.

The volume of the pot for calibrachoa must be at least three liters for the plant to feel comfortable. Be sure to place drainage in the form of expanded clay or small pebbles at the bottom of the pot. Make sure that in case of overflow, moisture quickly drains from the soil into the tray of the pot.

Important! Calibrachoa reacts negatively to the application of fresh manure, so if you want to enrich the soil before planting, use humus or complex fertilizer.

How to care for calibrachoa to achieve abundant flowering

Every housewife wants to see her plant healthy and blooming. At the same time, a large number of colors and long flowering bring extraordinary pleasure.

Just a few tricks and simple actions will allow you to get a blooming “waterfall” on the balcony.

Watering and spraying plants

Immediately draw a wide line between watering and spraying, since a moisture-sensitive flower simply loves humidified air. If the room is hot and stuffy, then calibrachoa should be sprayed 3-4 times a day. The main thing is not to spray the root area to protect the flower from rotting.

The plant should be watered so that the soil is slightly moist. Calibrachoa will accept dry soil much better than waterlogged soil.

Important! Watering and spraying should be carried out when the sun's rays do not reach the plant.

Feeding the flower

Calibrachoa loves fertilizing, which must be applied regularly to achieve good flowering. Included complex fertilizers there must be phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium. Fertilizers must be applied at least once a week.

During the planting period, it is necessary to give calibrachoa more nitrogen, but during flowering, add more phosphorus and potassium fertilizers.

Important! If the plant is stunted in growth, it should be fed with a stimulant.

If you have difficulty choosing the right one mineral fertilizer, take the complex that is used for petunias, since in terms of feeding, plants like the same things.

Pruning and shaping the bush

The spreading flower needs to be pruned from time to time to maintain its aesthetic appearance and rid the plant of diseased shoots.

First trimming carried out immediately after flowering. As soon as the first flowers begin to fade, cut them off to give the plant additional strength to lay the next buds.

Subsequent pruning and pinching done in mid-summer: all shoots are shortened by half to achieve greater branching of the plant. Also remove diseased or dead shoots and leaves.

Don't be afraid to cut a little more, the plant will not suffer from this. Buds will begin to appear en masse on the pruned shoots, which will further contribute to abundant flowering.

Did you know? Calibrachoa comes from the Solanaceae family, which includes the well-known tomato, eggplant and capsicum.

Wintering (rest period) of Calibrachoa

Although calibrachoa is considered a perennial, after a period of dormancy the plant seems to lose strength and begins to bloom poorly. Overwintering of calibrachoa begins after the last bud withers (or a week after that).

In order for the plant to feel comfortable during the dormant period, it must be kept at a temperature of + 10-12 ˚С, occasionally moistening the soil. Most often, this time is used to take cuttings and plant a new plant to replace the old one.

Reproduction of Calibrachoa

Many housewives are interested in which calibrachoa propagation method is the simplest. The plant can be propagated either by seeds or by cuttings from an existing plant.

Cuttings

Calibrachoa cuttings carried out during the dormant period (so as not to injure or weaken the plant), when the flower is sleeping, and metabolism at the cellular level slows down several times.

However, this does not affect the quality of the cuttings, so you can cut the shoots for cuttings in late summer or early autumn. We cut off the tops of shoots 5-6 cm long, which have at least 4 leaves. Bottom sheets cut off, leaving two or three top ones, which should be shortened by half.

Select a light substrate enriched with peat and plant the shoot in it, immersing ¼ of the cutting in the soil. After this, you need to create greenhouse conditions for the young plant. This is done using a jar or film that covers the flowerpot.

Under the “hood” its own microclimate is created with high humidity which promotes rooting. You can also use special preparations that speed up the germination process.

Important! After cutting, cuttings must be immediately planted in the ground, since after 2 hours their ability to root is reduced to almost zero.

From the moment of planting, give the plant favorable conditions: temperature at 20 ˚С, sunlight (except midday), protection from drafts and sudden temperature changes. Do not forget to remove the cover once a day and ventilate the plant so that it does not “suffocate”.

Moisten the soil no more than twice a day using a spray bottle, and the soil should not be very wet. After two weeks, the cuttings should germinate, and there is no longer a need for a “greenhouse”.

It should be noted that until the roots reach a length of 1.5-2 cm, young plants cannot be replanted. The roots are too weak and easy to break.

After a small “house”, calibrachoa is transplanted into flowerpots with a diameter of 5-6 cm. If you want to get a very bushy flower, pinch the shoot above the fifth leaf. After a month, mature plants are placed in pots with diameters of 10-14 cm.

Interestingly, the cut top from a rooted cutting (after pinching) can also be used to plant a new plant.

Seeds

Growing Calibrachoa from Seeds It is possible, but it poses some difficulties. The thing is that the plant that grows from the seed may be completely different from the parent.

Sometimes it even turned out that a “wild” one grew, which bloomed poorly, and the buds themselves were very small. Therefore, they try to propagate Calibrachoa vegetatively. If you still decide to grow calibrachoa from seeds, then be patient and follow the instructions.

Calibrachoa seeds can be obtained from capsules that form after flowering. Then take peat tablets, soak them in water and spread the seeds on their surface.

To germinate seeds, you need a constant temperature of + 18-20 ˚C and a mini-greenhouse (covered with film, a jar or a plastic cup).

Next you need to take care of lighting. Install table lamp near the seeds and turn it on for 15-16 hours a day. At night the lighting is turned off. After a week, the seeds will begin to hatch. If this does not happen, wait another 2-3 days.

After germination, ventilate the sprouts and gradually accustom them to sunlight (just don’t overdo it). If the seeds grow and there are no visible deviations, then after 4 days the cover can be removed.

Next, we wait for the first leaves to form. After removing the “greenhouse”, the peat tablet is moistened with water and a small amount of potassium permanganate. As soon as the first leaf hatches, water it with water with the addition of vitamin B 12 (1 ampoule per 300 ml).

Carefully care for the young plant, alternating warm purified water, fertilizing with vitamins and ready-made complex fertilizing (¼ of the norm for an adult plant).

If you notice that the roots have begun to protrude through the mesh of the tablet, transfer the calibrachoa seedlings to a small glass without separating the roots from the tablet. Add a special complex soil and slightly shorten the top of the plant.

For the first month, keep the plant warm, water it carefully and do not leave it in the sun for a long time.

It is important to understand that if you planted sprouted seeds in a plastic cup, the excess water will have nowhere to go and can lead to root rot. Also take care young plant from drafts and strong winds, apply fertilizing on time and monitor the general condition.

Important! If you buy selective seeds, there is a greater chance that the plants will turn out the way the manufacturer stated.

When to sow calibrachoa is up to you. The seeds are well stored and do not lose their viability over time.

At the same time better landing early spring to enjoy beautiful blooms in summer.

Calibrachoa resistance to diseases and pests

With proper care and timely application Calibrachoa fertilizers does not get sick and is very rarely affected by pests. However, if the plant looks sickly, blooms poorly or dries out, then it is urgent to identify the cause and begin treatment.

If improperly cared for, a flower is affected by the following diseases:

• root rot;
• blackleg;
• powdery mildew;
• chlorosis.

In addition to diseases, the plant's leaves may turn yellow, dry, or curl.

Let's start with root rot, which is represented by a microscopic fungus. It occurs when excessive watering or in very heavy soils that do not allow moisture to pass through well. Root rot can also be brought in with the soil if you took it from the garden.

With this disease, the root system is affected, which rots and dies. The plant becomes lethargic, loses color and does not adhere well to the substrate. If treatment is delayed, Calibrachoa will die.

This disease can only be treated with fungicides. The problem is that root rot comes in many varieties, and you need to choose a specific fungicide.

Due to the complexity and duration of treatment, the diseased plant is simply disposed of along with the contaminated soil. The most the best option in the early stages there will be cuttings from calibrachoa, but this must be done at a time when the shoots are still strong and have leaves on them.

Important! Blackleg does not affect sprouted cuttings.

is a huge mushroom mycelium that covers the leaves, coloring them white. Causes of the disease: sudden changes in temperature and humidity, overdose of nitrogen fertilizers after pruning or pinching.

Diseased leaves stop growing, become limp and die. If you do not stop the spread of the fungus in time, you risk losing the flower.

It's better to fight at home using biofungicides, which are environmentally friendly. The best representatives are “Fitosporin-M” and “Alirin-B”. We strongly do not recommend using fungicides at home, as they are very toxic to humans.

A disease like chlorosis, is caused by a microscopic fungus. The causes of infection are varied: iron deficiency, waterlogged soil, insect vectors and dirty tools. The plant loses its usual color, becomes pale and blooms very poorly.

You can see an example of Calibrachoa flowers affected by chlorosis in the photo below.

To cure chlorosis, you need use the specialized drug “Antichlorosin”. However, before use, try simply feeding the plant and trimming dry shoots, watering the soil, or, conversely, drying it out.

is a controversial disease that can be caused by many factors. Treatment with drugs will not always be helpful.

In addition to diseases, dry or curled leaves can appear due to a lack of any substances. So, if the leaves of calibrachoa turn yellow, this is a reason to check the temperature in the room, add fertilizer (if you have not done this before) or water the plant less often. Dry and curled leaves are the consequences of poor lighting or dry air.

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