Clematis justa planting and care. Successfully growing luxury clematis. Methods for propagating clematis

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Clematis Yusta is considered one of the most beautiful varieties. It belongs to the Viticella group (purple princelings). Is of Lithuanian origin. The vine itself is quite compact, but it has abundant flowering. To achieve this, you need not only to sow clematis correctly, but also to comply with certain requirements for caring for the plant.

Clematis Justa is a large-flowered specimen. The inflorescences themselves have a simple drooping shape. Usually 3 copies are collected together. Their sizes vary from 6 to 20 cm in diameter. The edges are slightly wavy. The petals are usually described as light purple or light pinkish, with a characteristic blue tint. There is a stripe at the base. The anthers are light yellowish in color. They are located on white threads. The flowering period occurs throughout the summer and early September.

The shoots develop quite quickly, but their length is approximately 1.5 m. The plant is fixed to the supports using leaf petioles. Typically, this variety of princelings is used for vertical landscaping. Great for low fences and containers where space is limited.

Be sure to carefully select the place for planting - it should be sunny or with partial shade. As for the soil, it is recommended to choose an area with humus, fertile soil. It should be moderately moist and loose. Loamy and sandy loam soil is excellent. Its acidity level is within 6-7 units. As for frost resistance, clematis Yusta is suitable for zones from 9a, where the temperature does not fall below -70° C, to 4a, where winter temperatures do not fall below -35° C.

Clematis Yusta pruning group is third. This means that such a prince will flower only on young shoots that have formed this year. The plant must be pruned in the same way as newly planted clematis, that is, leave 2-3 buds on the shoots.

There is a universal pruning method that is used for all plants belonging to different groups. This also applies to clematis Justa. It is necessary to cut one shoot to 1 m, and the other completely, leaving only 2-4 buds. Alternate this way throughout the entire bush. Thanks to this procedure, the culture can be rejuvenated.

Landing

Clematis Justa is grown from seeds and seedlings. The first option is suitable for those people who prefer to study independently breeding work. For germination, it is better to choose those seeds that were collected this year. They should be stored in paper bags. The temperature should be 8-23 0 C. In such conditions, the seed is suitable for germination for 4 years.

  1. 1 Pre-soak the seeds for 10 days. Change the water every 4 days.
  2. 2 Prepare the soil - mix sand, soil and peat in equal parts. Water thoroughly.
  3. 3 Transfer the seeds one at a time into a container with substrate. Sprinkle sand on top. The layer should be 2 times larger than the thickness of the seed. Compact carefully.
  4. 4 Cover with glass or plastic film. The temperature should be from 25 to 30 0 C. Water the substrate periodically.

When sprouts appear, the film must be removed. Seedlings require more light. As soon as the first true leaves appear on the seedlings, picking is carried out, that is, they are planted in separate pots. They should be kept indoors at room temperature until the frost has passed.

Then the landing takes place open ground. It is necessary to choose an area in the shade with light soil. The interval between young plants is 20 cm. They need to be pinched periodically so that the root system develops better. In autumn, plants need to be covered. In the spring you will have to plant the sprouts again. This time the distance between them should be 50 cm. After 3 years, when the seedling has at least 3 large roots 15 cm long, the clematis is transplanted to permanent place. This can be done both in spring and autumn. If the region has a cooler climate, then it is better to start the procedure in April or May.

The algorithm of actions will be as follows:

  1. 1 Dig a hole. The depth should be 0.6 m. The thickness and width should also be of the same size.
  2. 2 Pour crushed stone, perlite or expanded clay onto the bottom. The layer is 10 cm. If the soil on the site is infertile, then its composition should be changed. To do this, add 2 buckets of compost, 1 bucket each of peat and sand. Additionally, you will need 150 g of superphosphate and 400 g of dolomite flour.
  3. 3 Install stationary supports. Height – 2 m.
  4. 4 Add soil to the drainage layer.
  5. 5 Install the seedling. Gently straighten the roots.
  6. 6 Sprinkle with substrate so that the root collar is 5-10 cm below ground level.
  7. 7 Compact the soil around the trunk.
  8. 8 Water the plant - use a bucket of water.

Leave a distance of 1 m between bushes.

Rules of care

To ensure abundant flowering, the following conditions must be observed when caring for clematis:

  1. 1 Watering The crop is considered moisture-loving, so it is necessary to moisten the soil once a week, and in hot summers the procedure must be carried out twice as often. Young plants require 10-20 liters per procedure, and more mature ones - from 20 to 40 liters. Experts advise digging several large pots into the ground around the bush with a hole in the bottom. When watering, these containers must be filled. Water will gradually penetrate into the soil and moisten those layers where the clematis root system is located.
  2. 2 Mulching. Prevents the appearance of weeds and prevents the soil from drying out completely. Moss, peat or humus can be used as mulch.
  3. 3 Loosening. If in spring time the space around the vine has not been mulched, then you will have to periodically loosen the soil. This must be done every time after watering the next day. At the same time, it is also necessary to remove weeds.
  4. 4 Feeding. In the first year of planting, it is not recommended to use fertilizers frequently, since such substances are added to the soil at the time of preparing the hole. If you use such tools too often, there is a high probability that young plant will rot along with the fertilizers. During the period of active vegetation growth, it is necessary to use compounds that contain large quantities of nitrogen. It is required to increase green mass. During the period of bud formation you will need potash fertilizers, and after flowering it is better to use phosphorus. But during flowering there is no need to fertilize. After trimming you can use copper sulfate– 20 g per bucket. In spring, clematis needs to be watered with lime milk - dolomite flour and chalk are used. If the summer is too rainy, it is recommended to sprinkle bottom part trunk with ordinary wood ash to prevent the process of rotting of the root system.

It is imperative to prepare supports for clematis Justa. Pyramids, fan-type structures, crayfish, etc. are suitable. But it must be taken into account that the thickness of the part of the structure for which the vine will be fixed should be no more than 12 mm in diameter. When clematis grows, it becomes very heavy, especially after rainfall. This also applies to representatives of the Yusta variety. That is why the structure must be made of durable material. You can build a pipe from metal mesh. It should be rolled up and buried deep in the ground. The result will be a kind of openwork structure, inside which clematis will grow. It will cover the mesh itself with its inflorescences and leaves.

Another important point is the insulation of clematis Justa before the onset of winter. On a non-rainy day, you need to pour a bucket of humus under the trunk. Pre-mix it with foliage. The root collar should be treated with a solution of copper sulfate with a 2% concentration. After this, hilling is carried out. Sand and wood ash are used (250 g per bucket of the basic composition). The layer should be about 15 cm thick.

Then you need to bend all the shoots to the ground. It is recommended to twist them at the base. Then cover with spruce branches and dry leaves. Shredded polystyrene foam will also work. After that cover wooden box so that an air cushion forms around the plant. Then use roofing felt or other similar material with waterproof properties. Secure these layers with bricks or stones so that they do not blow away due to strong winds. On top you can additionally make a layer of peat 20 cm thick.

At the beginning of spring, the film with the top layer needs to be removed, and the foliage and spruce branches are left until the time when it is already known for sure that frost will not return. After this, the shoots are lifted and secured on supports.

Clematis Justa suffers from fungal infections. This also applies to fading. The tissues gradually become less elastic, wither and dry out. To prevent the development of such a disease, it is necessary to water the vine with a 2% solution of Fundazol in May. You can also use Azocene. Such tools cope with powdery mildew and gray rot. If the vine is completely damaged, then it should be dug up along with a lump of earth and destroyed, and the ground around it should be disinfected.

Clematis - cultivation and care

Clematis at correct landing and minimal maintenance they will decorate the facade of the building, hide unattractive courtyard buildings, and act as an element of space organization, dividing the site into zones. The incredible abundance of flowers of various shades, the variety of their sizes and shapes, the duration of flowering, the versatility in landscaping - all these are the undoubted advantages of this elegant decorative vine.

Planting and soil requirements

Growing clematis is in many ways similar to cultivating other decorative perennials, however, this culture has its own characteristics. When choosing a site for planting, pay attention to the following points:

  1. Clematis need protection from northern and northeastern winds, since strong gusty winds will break and confuse tender shoots and tear off petals.
  2. Illumination by the sun for at least 6 hours a day is prerequisite lush flowering. In the southern regions, it is preferable to plant bushes in partial shade, otherwise they will suffer from the heat and may die.
  3. When planting clematis along buildings, step back from the wall at least 40–50 cm so that the water flowing from the roof rainwater did not wash out the roots.
  4. When choosing a variety, it is worth finding out exactly how the flowers are formed - along the entire length of the vine or only at the ends of the shoots, depending on this they plan to place the plant on it (in the form of a continuous carpet or a falling cascade).

For the formation of strong shoots and long flowering Clematis needs fertile, light, weed-free soil with neutral acidity.

At landing take into account the following requirements:

  1. Clematis do not tolerate close proximity groundwater(above 1 m), therefore, if necessary, the soil is drained by digging a drainage ditch.
  2. The planting hole is dug 0.8 m deep and 0.6 m wide, and a 15-centimeter drainage layer of pebbles or crushed stone is laid at the bottom.
  3. To fill the hole, mix the extracted soil with a bucket of humus, adding ¼ cup of superphosphate, ½ cup of nitrophoska, 2 cups of wood ash.
  4. For good growth of clematis, neutral or slightly acidic soil (pH 5.6 – 6.5) is optimal. Acidic soils Be sure to lime it by adding 50–100 g of slaked lime to the soil mixture.
  5. A few days before planting, pour 2 buckets of water into the hole, and try to plant the plants in cloudy weather.
  6. The seedling is placed by placing the roots on a mound of loose soil and deepening the root collar 9–10 cm below the soil level, protecting the buds from freezing.
  7. After planting, the plant is watered and mulched with a thick layer of compost or humus.

Popular varieties of clematis and their main characteristics can be found in the article “”.

Care

The main elements of care include regular watering, fertilizing during the growing season, pruning and tying vines to supports. Let's consider all stages of work in order.

Watering

Regular watering is carried out every 7-10 days, soaking the soil to a depth of 40-50 cm - for planted seedlings and young bushes. For adult plants, the watering depth increases to 70–90 cm.

A few days after watering, as soon as the soil dries, it is loosened, ensuring a flow of oxygen to the roots. If watering is not possible, frequent loosening of the soil will help clematis survive drought more easily.

In hot weather, watering is increased up to 2-3 times a week, which will allow the plant to remain blooming and not lose decorative properties. To water an adult clematis bush you need 3-5 buckets of water.

Feeding

If the planting holes are properly filled, the plants are not fed for the first 2–3 years. In the future, fertilizers are applied every two weeks, while in the spring, at the beginning of intensive growth, fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers is carried out; from the moment of bud formation and further - phosphorus and potassium.

Used as organic fertilizers– urea (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water), chicken manure (1:20), and minerals – Crystalon different brands, according to the growing season.

At the end of summer, it is useful to add 2 cups of wood ash under the clematis bushes, the effect of which is universal - to reduce soil acidity, fight fungal infections and as a top dressing.

Garter

The shoots are evenly distributed and tied to a support several times during the season. If you do not tie the garter, the vine will lose its decorative appearance, exposing its support in places, and in others forming dense thickets, which will create favorable conditions for the development of fungal diseases.

If the variety produces flowers on the tops of the shoots, the main shoots are tied horizontally, and the lateral ones blooming vines distributed vertically, creating a spectacular screen.

Trimming

Pruning is the most important technique that will allow you to form a bush on a support and get abundant flowering throughout the season. When pruning, you should take into account the diversity of species, each of which has its own biological characteristics.

Large-flowered forms of clematis of the Viticella and Jacquemin groups bloom on annual shoots, therefore early spring they are pruned strongly, to the soil level, or 1–2 pairs of buds are left at the base of the shoots. Such bushes will grow quickly and begin to bloom by June. It is permissible to leave several strong shoots unpruned, then flowering will begin earlier and will not be as abundant, and annual shoots will bloom only at the end of summer.

Large-flowered clematis of the Patence and Florida groups bloom on last year's shoots, so in the fall, developed vines are only slightly shortened and covered, and weak shoots are removed in the spring.

Small-flowered herbaceous clematis with the ground part dying off in winter are completely pruned before sheltering for the winter or in the spring, as soon as the snow melts.

How to propagate clematis?

This decorative vine is successfully propagated by vegetative methods - dividing the bush, cuttings and layering. Seed propagation is labor-intensive and is used for breeding new varieties or obtaining seedlings of species of clematis.

Dividing the bush

This method doesn't give much planting material, but amateur flower growers often use it as reliable and least labor-intensive. Adult bushes are divided at the age of 5-6 years, in spring or autumn, as follows:

  1. All shoots are trimmed, leaving 1–3 nodes above the soil level.
  2. The bush is carefully dug up, the soil is shaken off and divided into parts with sharp pruners, so that each seedling has root system and several shoots with buds. Depending on the size of the mother plant, you can get from 2 to 8 seedlings.
  3. The cut areas are cauterized with a strong solution of potassium permanganate or sprinkled with charcoal.
  4. Remove broken or weak roots and plant the plants in prepared holes in the usual way.

The method of propagation is similar to dividing the bush. layering. To do this, in the spring, dig a groove 8–10 cm deep near the mother plant, which is filled with the mixture. fertile soil and sand. A shoot with vegetative buds is placed in the groove, bringing the top to the surface, and covered with soil.

The mother plant is regularly watered abundantly, and after a year the seedlings obtained along the entire length of the shoot are separated.

Cuttings

Propagation by green cuttings is an excellent way to get a lot of high-quality clematis planting material, for which you perform the following steps:

  1. A two-layer primer is placed in the boxes:
  2. Before flowering begins, the entire shoot is cut off, its middle part is divided into cuttings with 2-3 pairs of buds. The lower sections are treated with a root formation stimulator (Kornevin, heteroauxin);
  3. When pruning mother bushes, shoots with vegetative buds are left, which will produce higher-quality cuttings than shoots with generative buds that produce color.
    • a nutrient layer (15 cm) is placed on the bottom from a mixture of humus, sand and garden soil in equal proportions;
    • The top mulch layer (3 cm) consists of sand or Zeolite.
  4. The substrate is well moistened and cuttings are placed every 5 cm in a row, leaving 10–15 cm between rows, after which the plantings are watered and covered with polyethylene or placed in greenhouses.
  5. In autumn, rooted cuttings are planted in individual pots or cups and placed in a room with a temperature of 18–20°C, with weekly watering. In the southern regions, clematis cuttings with well-developed roots are planted in the ground in a permanent place and well covered for the winter.

Diseases

Clematis are affected by fungal infections; the signs of the most harmful diseases and preventive measures are described below.

  1. characterized by the appearance on the leaves of brown or light brown spots with a purple border. The affected tissues dry out and fall out.
  2. Annual cuttings and the bases of young shoots are susceptible to the disease. The lesion appears in the form of a pale pink coating, impairs the conductivity of blood vessels and leads to rapid withering and death of plants.
  3. appears as a dirty white fluffy coating on the green parts of plants, as well as on cuttings during storage. It develops more often in cold, damp weather.
  4. Brown-red, convex spots sometimes appear on leaves, shoots, and flowers, covered with a powdery substance consisting of fungal spores.
  5. The main symptom is the appearance of oblong spots with a dark coating on the leaves; on the shoots, the lesion is expressed as dark depressed ulcers.
  6. When infected, all parts of the plant become covered with a thin white coating, then the leaves and young shoots dry out. Outbreaks of this disease can be observed in dry hot weather, the defeat is more typical for the southern regions.

Prevention of fungal diseases

  1. Before planting, seedlings are immersed for 1.5–2 hours in a solution of copper sulfate at the rate of 5 g per 10 liters.
  2. After planting, dust the soil and shoots with foundationazole powder.
  3. Before sheltering for the winter, the bushes and the ground under them are treated with one of the fungicides (copper sulfate 2%, Kuproksat, Blue Bordeaux).
  4. In the spring, as soon as the weather permits, remove all leaves, remove weak and affected shoots and spray with 1% iron sulfate.
  5. During the season, if there is an outbreak of a fungal infection, the plants are treated with one of the garden fungicides (Strobi, Topaz, Split).

Pest Control

Clematis is threatened by aphid colonies

The greatest harm comes from contamination of the soil with a nematode, damage to plants by spider mites, mealybug, aphids.

To prevent infection nematode And scaleworm, before planting, the roots of the purchased seedling are immersed in hot water(50°C). Mulching the soil with wormwood leaves or planting marigolds or calendula nearby inhibits the development of the nematode.

In hot weather, young shoots attack aphid colonies To combat this pest, plants are treated with soap emulsion or pesticides (Bi-58, Decis).

Against spider mite acaricidal preparations are used - spraying with Arcerid, garlic infusion or dusting with colloidal sulfur.

How to cover clematis for the winter?

Clematis are resistant plants and tolerate severe frosts down to -35°C, so they are covered only in the northern regions, and in the southern regions it is enough to sprinkle the base of the bush with a mound of earth.

In the fall, on those varieties for which this is provided for by agricultural technology, short pruning is performed, and then the soil is dug deep - this measure will prevent cracking of the soil and retain snow.

Sheltering begins in dry weather when onset of persistent frosts. The bush is covered with a box or a wire frame is installed. The structure is covered with roofing felt or other dense material and covered with 1-2 buckets of earth, peat or humus, after which snow is shoveled on top.

In varieties with long pruning, the shoots are removed from the support, if necessary, shortened slightly, twisted, laid on a layer of branches or spruce branches, and then covered as described above.

Video: how to choose clematis seedlings

Clematis - unsurpassed ornamental culture for vertical gardening. Bright walls or lush waterfalls of flowers delight the eye from the beginning of summer until late autumn. Even a novice gardener will not have any difficulty growing this luxurious liana on his site. To do this, you need to take into account the main features of the crop when planting and follow a few care recommendations.

It is for this reason that clematis should be planted correctly, since they can live for more than one year in one place.

Planting clematis in spring

The most favorable seasons for planting clematis are autumn and spring. Seedlings may experience a much worse establishment period in the first year if planting of the flower is delayed.

This happens due to a glitch life cycle plants, since clematis has an early growing season. This means that you need to plant on time in the spring.

If planted in autumn period clematis, then you can be sure that it will take root quite well. You just need to know that before the onset of winter cold, the flower must be allowed to take root well. Thus, the topic of timing becomes relevant again.

As soon as the buds begin to swell or have not even begun to grow, around April or early May you can safely plant clematis.

For proper disembarkation plants should be made wide and sufficiently deep holes for planting - 60 cm each.

After in landing hole add fertile top layer and fertilizers such as: 2-3 handfuls of ash, 50g of superphosphate, humus from 5 to 8 kg. Add 50g of slaked lime to acidic soil.

On the soil, which is scattered in advance in the form of a mound, it is necessary to spread the clematis roots evenly.

As one option, the mound can be made of sand, and at the end of planting, the root collar is also covered with sand. Thanks to such manipulations, rotting of the plant will be prevented.

If the vine is old, the root neck should be deepened by 10-12 cm; if it is young, then the root neck should be deepened by approximately 5-11 cm.

Thus, not only will new shoots form, but also summer time will serve as protection against overheating, and in winter against freezing.

When planting clematis, it is necessary to maintain a distance between seedlings of 1-1.5 m. Immediately after the planting process, the plants should be watered generously and then mulched.

Key points about planting clematis

1. The plant’s tolerance to replanting is excellent, which allows them to be planted in a simple bed to grow and strengthen, and after a year or two to be planted in permanent places.

2. Before planting, clematis seedlings are disinfected in a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

3. After planting, it is imperative to place a support and tie the clematis (this can be temporary).

The support should be no more than 2 cm in diameter. In general, during the growth process, the vine needs to be tied up twice or even three times to the shoots that have grown.

This must be done to ensure that the plant does not suffer from diseases and to reduce the risk of mechanical damage.

4. Active growth of only one stem is observed in large-leaved clematis species in the first year of planting. And in the year when the plant is planted, the top should be pinched, so the lateral shoots will begin to grow. The pinching procedure itself can be done again.

5. Clematis loves light, but not overheating the root system. That is why it is very good to plant flowers such as marigolds, peonies, phlox and others near it.

6. Since the liana plant is at risk of overheating and drying out the soil, in the spring after loosening and first watering it is necessary to mulch with humus in the northern places, sawdust in the southern regions or peat. And in order to close the shoots at the bottom and avoid overheating, it will be enough to “knock out” the fly.

7. If the plant is planned to be planted against a wall, then on the best side will be southwestern or south side buildings. The distance for good plant growth should be at least 50 cm from the wall. Under no circumstances should water from the roof get onto it.

Where you should not plant a vine plant called clematis:

  • in places where there are drafts;
  • where there is deep partial shade or absolute shade;
  • in lowlands, namely in those places where moisture accumulation and stagnation are likely;
  • It is also not recommended to plant clematis close to buildings.

How to care for clematis in spring

If you grow clematis correctly, you need to remember to water frequently and abundantly for several years after planting.

After three years, it will be enough to water the bush several times a week with 2-3 buckets of water.

Luxurious and beautiful bloom- this is the result of proper watering.

To keep moisture in the right quantity, you should mulch and loosen the soil near the clematis. For the mulching procedure, you can use rotted sawdust, peat or humus.

During the first year of growth of the vine plant, roots actively develop and only about 3 shoots are added.

Therefore, in order to develop many dozens of clematis shoots and obtain a lush shrub with hundreds of charming flowers, you need to properly and carefully care for the plant for about 5-6 years. To do this, it is better to pick off flowers that grow in single quantities.

Already from the 3rd year of growth, clematis gains strength, many shoots begin to appear on it. The timing of clematis flowering can be well controlled by procedures such as pinching and pruning.

Then the flowering will be completely different and longer, unlike plants without pinching and pruning.

Feeding clematis

Clematis are very sensitive to feeding. Therefore, they need fertilizer, preferably once a week. For fertilizing, use a complete fertilizer made from minerals - 30 grams of fertilizer per 10 liters of water, based on a volume of 2 sq.m. soil.

Except mineral fertilizing 1 cup of wood ash per individual plant is also suitable. Another very good fertilizers considered mullein (manure).

When the cold comes it is necessary to cover the root system of the plant, but when spring comes there is no need to rush into opening clematis.

This precaution is due to the fact that the vine is afraid of intermittent frosts and the sun, which shines brightly, which can lead to kidney damage.

As soon as the spring frosts pass, you can safely remove the cover from the plant.

After should be fertilized nitrogen fertilizer. One of good options there will be urea - 40 grams per 10 liters of water. If the soil under clematis is acidic, then the best remedy for irrigation there will be lime milk in the proportion per 1 sq.m of soil - per 10 liters of water 200 grams of slaked lime.

The process of stripping the plant is best done in less sunny, preferably cloudy weather. It is recommended to even give them a little shade so that the clematis gets used to sunlight gradually.

Key points in caring for clematis immediately after planting:

  • it is necessary to immediately shade the clematis and provide protection from the wind;
  • Water the plant generously, but under no circumstances overwater it!
  • regular weeding and loosening of the soil;
  • Do not feed immediately after planting!

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