Lining is excellent universal material for the final finishing ceiling surfaces, internal and external walls. This cladding is also perfect for finishing door leaves in combination with a similar type of platbands. Regardless of the selected objects for cladding, the panels are fastened according to the same pattern each time.

What particularly impresses is the ease of working with this material. You can easily handle clapboard cladding on your own.

But first you should always use teaching aid. This could be an instruction for installing the lining with your own hands.

Using instructions

Detailed instructions are one of the best assistants in the learning process of any task. In construction, the prices of professional teams for work are quite high. Doing something yourself is beneficial, first of all, from a financial point of view. Especially when it comes to simple processes. Wood paneling falls into this category.

For greater understanding, it is customary to use illustrated tips. In this case, as an additional visual material A photo of the installation of the lining would be suitable. And of course, one cannot help but ignore the numerous video materials that the Internet is so rich in.

It is important to take advantage of everyone educational materials study all the details, master the technology. Then, already confident that no problems will arise, you can calmly begin work.

Stages of cladding

Step-by-step installation of lining with your own hands consists of performing the following steps:

Execute preparatory work. The lining is being prepared for installation. Impregnate special compounds, such as antiseptic and fire retardant. For subsequent processing, use stain or paint of the required color.

After the paint composition has dried, a lathing made of wooden slats or a beam with a cross-section of 5x5 cm. The fastening spacing of the frame elements should be 10-20 mm less than the width of the insulation slab. To fasten the slats, screws or self-tapping screws are used.

The position of the slats or bars can be vertical or horizontal. The future arrangement of the casing depends on this.

The installation position of the lining depends entirely on the desire to visually change the appearance of the room. This is the basis for the initial order of attaching the frame.

Vertical cladding increases the height of the room. Horizontal installation Do-it-yourself lining makes the room seem more spacious.

In the resulting cells, when using timber, arrange thermal insulation boards. Upon completion of the work, the entire working area is covered with plastic film, fixing it on the bars with thin slats. In the future, they will be the element to which the lining itself will be attached.

The final stage is finishing with wood panels. The room takes on a finished look.

Technology correct installation lining on the walls is distributed over several steps and is strictly observed during the entire period of work.

The process goes in the following order:

• wall fastening of panels is carried out from the ceiling to the floor line.
• the paneling is attached to wooden blocks or slats. The grooves are positioned down. To make the panels even, make a bottom adjustment using a trim piece wooden board. This method eliminates the formation of gaps between the sheathing and the floor.

Differences in fasteners and their characteristics

For fixation use fasteners. The tenons of subsequent sheathing elements are inserted into the grooves and secured with specially selected parts. These can be staples, clamps, or regular nails and screws. Each of these elements of rigid fixation has its own meaning.

Nails driven into grooves are the most accurate, almost invisible type of fastening. The clamps are characterized as high-quality fixation. For staples, it is necessary to use a mounting gun, since fastening occurs by shooting.

Technique for aligning panels

The last board of the lining is adjusted in width with a hacksaw. A decorative plinth is laid along the line where it joins the corner. It is attached to liquid nails. It turns out to be a very beautiful appearance.

Similar finishing with plinths is carried out along all lines where the wall surfaces meet the ceiling, along wall corners and protrusions.

The procedure for covering the ceiling

Do-it-yourself installation of lining on the ceiling is carried out in a manner similar to wall decoration. The only difference is in the initial order of the panels.

Layout and fastening start from the window and lead towards the opposite wall. Thus, the shadows that appear between the facing elements are hidden.

Photo of lining installation

The lining is perfect for finishing ceilings, exterior and external cladding walls and even door trim. Regardless of the cladding object, the panels are fastened according to the same pattern. At the same time, you can easily handle the installation of the lining yourself. Study the basic instructions and get started.

First step

Prepare the lining for the upcoming installation. Soak the material with antiseptic and fire retardant. If desired, you can additionally treat the panels with stain or paint them in the desired color.

Let the treated lining dry and bring the material into the room to be finished. Leave it for a day. The wood adapts to environmental conditions, which eliminates the risk of further deformation.

Second step

Mount the sheathing on the surface to be finished. Buy slats or make them yourself from inch boards or 5x5 cm timber. Attach the sheathing elements in increments 10-20 mm smaller than the width of the future insulation. Fix it using screws or self-tapping screws. The fastening spacing is half a meter.

Control the evenness of the frame using special tools.

Third step

Cover the sheathing waterproofing material (polyethylene film, fastened construction stapler), place insulation in the cells (if required, optimal material – mineral wool, lay tightly, without gaps), and then cover the thermal insulation layer with a vapor barrier material (attach to the sheathing with a construction stapler).

Fourth step

Attach to wooden sheathing for insulation, a second lathing, intended directly for fixing the lining.

Attach beams or boards perpendicular to the future sheathing and at the same time perpendicular to the frame for insulating materials. That is, the method of attaching the sheathing (horizontally or vertically) needs to be determined for yourself even before attaching the first sheathing.

Treat the sheathing elements with an antiseptic.

There are several options for fastening the boards, and different fasteners can be used to mount the panels. Read the information provided and start finishing.

Mounting options

Choose the method of fixing the lining at your discretion. Factory lining initially has tongues and grooves that allow each subsequent cladding board to be fastened to the previous one.

To fix the lining, you can use staples, clamps, screws and nails. The fastening itself can be done covertly or openly.

As already noted, choose the fastening method at your discretion. The main thing is that the fixation is as reliable and high-quality as possible, and that the lining itself remains without damage. Sink the heads of nails and screws into the wood.

The most accurate and at the same time the most complex method of fixing the sheathing involves nailing directly into the grooves of the lining. This way the nails will be almost invisible.

Clippers are perfect for high-quality fixation of boards. Pick up suitable variety fasteners in accordance with the thickness of the grooves of your decorative boards. On one side of the clamp there are teeth - with them the fastener cuts into the grooves finishing material. On the other hand, the clamp must be nailed or screwed to the frame. As a rule, the set with clamps initially includes nails.

An option for fastening the lining is also available, which involves the use of special brackets. In this case it is used mounting gun. The bracket shoots a groove in the board and secures it to the frame. To perform such installation you need to have the appropriate skills.

The lining is treated with the necessary impregnations, the lathing is installed, the necessary insulating materials laid, installation method selected. Now all that remains is to attach the lining directly.

Decide on the optimal direction for placing the cladding elements - this has already been discussed earlier.

Focus on your preferences and features of the room. For example, horizontal decoration allows you to visually expand the room, making it visually more spacious.

When placed vertically, the lining will visually increase the height of the room.

First step

Proceed to attaching the lining. Start sheathing the walls from the ceiling to the floor. At the same time, try to direct the grooves downward - thanks to this, various debris will not get into them in the future, which will contribute to a significant increase in the service life of the skin.

Second step

Fix the clapboard sheet onto the sheathing bars. Use convenient fasteners. Insert the tenon of the next sheathing element into the groove of the fixed board. Secure it. Cover the entire planned space in this order.

Every 5-10 sheathing elements, be sure to check the evenness of the surface using a plumb line or level.

Third step

Having reached last board paneling, adjust it to the width with a regular hacksaw or other suitable tool. Nail the board and hide the gap under the decorative baseboard.

Fourth step

Clean the finishing surface from dust using a damp sponge. If you wish, you can finish painting the lining, but this is not necessary - the wood already has an attractive appearance and a beautiful shade.

If a special lining will be used for the cladding, which outwardly imitates a rounded log, start finishing with the groove facing up - this way you will hide the joints.

Additionally, the panels can be adjusted using a hammer, placing a piece of board under it - this way the finish will be fixed without gaps.

To fasten the “rounded” lining, use self-tapping screws. Twist the fasteners at 45 degrees. Place treated timber between the panels of such sheathing. This will create beautiful finish no gaps.

First step

Start attaching the clapboard boards from the corner. The first clapboard board in the corner must be secured with nails. The fastener caps will later be hidden under the decorative corner. If you don’t want to buy a corner, simply bite off the caps using a side cutter.

Second step

Continue fixing the sheathing boards until the entire planned surface is covered. Work as with horizontal finishing, inserting one element into another and fixing it one by one.

Third step

When you reach the last board, cut it to size and nail it to the frame.

In the end, all that remains is to decorate the sheathing with special slats, plinths, and corners - these elements allow you to hide the joints and properly decorate the corners.

The ceiling is sheathed with the material in question in the same order as the walls. The only note is that the lining should begin to be attached from the window opening to the opposite wall. With this placement, the shadows between the cladding elements will be less noticeable.

Thus, in self-installation there is absolutely nothing complicated about the lining. To extend the service life of the cladding, re-treat it with an antiseptic and fire retardant every 2-3 years. Otherwise, follow the instructions and you will create the highest quality, durable and aesthetically pleasing finish.

Good luck!

Video - Installation of lining with your own hands

Today there are thousands various materials for surface finishing, from lining to porcelain tiles. Depending on the requirements for performance properties, the choice is limited to hundreds various types. Quite popular, and at the same time reliable, durable and, not least important, easy to install is lining. But it is worth noting that to obtain the desired result, you need to correctly fasten the lining. That is why the question arises, how to fasten the lining? The answer to which you will find below. We will consider all methods and types of fastening, both indoors and outside.

Types of lining fastening

First, you should familiarize yourself with the types of fastenings, consider each of them a little closer.

In total there are two types:

• Horizontal or wall mounted.
• Vertical, ceiling mounted.

Let's consider each of them separately.

Horizontal method of fastening the lining

How to attach the lining to the wall? When mounting the lining horizontally, installation is most often carried out from top to bottom. The first board is attached directly under the ceiling, leaving a gap of several centimeters (installation is carried out with the groove down). Next, each subsequent plank is installed with a comb into the groove one by one. This is how the complete installation process is carried out down to the last board. The latter is cut to width, usually in half, and carefully installed in its place using a pry bar or nail puller. The remaining gap, the size of which will be 2-3 centimeters, is closed using a plinth.

There is also a reverse fastening of the lining to the wall, i.e. top down. It is used extremely rarely. It can be noted that the fastening itself will be somewhat easier, since the visibility of the fastening zones is improved, but there are a significant number of disadvantages:

• The last board installed will ruin the appearance of the entire finish because it will be cut (which does not happen if installed from top to bottom, since this strip is located at the bottom and is not noticeable).
• There will be gaps between the panels, which is not very good both in operational terms and in decorative terms.

Vertical or ceiling mounting

Speaking about how to attach the lining to the ceiling, it is worth highlighting a number of rules that must be followed when carrying out work:

• First of all, you should pay attention to the installation of the frame; it should be made from 20*25 millimeter bars.
• Before starting installation, it is advisable to stretch several cords along the edges, which you can then use to guide you, which will somewhat simplify and speed up the whole process.
• These bars must only be fastened horizontally. Initially, fastening is carried out along the edges; after checking the building level, 3-4 additional fastenings are provided.
• In case of fixing the lining in rooms with high humidity, it is necessary to pre-treat it with an antiseptic or a hydrophobic compound.
• The fastening itself is most often carried out using nails that are driven in at an angle. In some cases, clamps are used. You can also use a construction stapler when attaching plastic lining.
• The first plank is attached directly next to the wall, leaving a small gap of 2-3 centimeters. It is recommended to install with the tenon towards you.
• The boards themselves are mounted one by one; if necessary, they are tapped with a rubber hammer for a tighter bond (a regular one can accidentally damage the surface, so it’s better not to use it).
• It should be noted that usually electrical wiring is installed along the ceiling (at least for lighting), so hydro and vapor barrier should be provided.

Ways to fasten the lining

Regardless of the type of fastening, vertical or horizontal, the lining must be fastened to the sheathing, i.e. wooden frame. At the same time, each of its elements must be set strictly according to the level, since any irregularities or irregularities will ultimately lead to the appearance of bulges or depressions, which in turn will greatly spoil the appearance of the finish as a whole.

After installing the frame, you can begin directly attaching the lining. Moreover, in the case when it is carried out in rooms where high air humidity is expected, it is necessary to treat all elements with special hydrophobic substances.

After installation is completed, a small piece of board is inserted into the gap left, with the help of which, by pressing or tapping, the entire structure is more tightly connected, which in turn allows you to completely get rid of the gaps.

It should be noted that when fastening it is necessary to leave small gaps of 2-3 centimeters at the beginning of the structure, i.e. at the ceiling, and at the end, at the floor. This decision will compensate temperature regime, and will provide additional ventilation of the room. In the absence of such indentations, there is a risk that after a while the boards will swell, and this will negatively affect both the appearance and the performance characteristics all finishing. Subsequently, such indentations are closed using a plinth.

In any case, without taking into account the chosen method of fastening the lining, the first plank is nailed to the frame with finishing nails; it is advisable to completely recess the head into the board using a hammer. In this case, regardless of the method of fastening, each board is initially nailed in the middle, then along the edges, depending on the length, to additional beams (strictly after checking the building level and confirming horizontality).

In total, there are four main methods of fastening the lining:

• screws or self-tapping screws;
• using nails;
• using clamps;
• and using a stapler.

Fastening the lining with self-tapping screws

How to fasten the lining with self-tapping screws? This method is usually often found when decorating premises where no additional processing or decoration is required. In particular, you can often find the use of this method when cladding baths. But it should be noted that this solution is not effective in conditions of frequent temperature changes, as well as high humidity, since in this case the fastenings may dry out, and this will significantly worsen the appearance. But this problem can be eliminated by pre-treatment with special compounds. At the same time, it is advisable to carry it out once every few months.

It should also be noted that such fastening is quite reliable, as a result of which it will become good decision when planning long-term operation of the finish.

The process of fastening the lining with self-tapping screws is as follows:

• Initially, each board is tried on the frame, and marks are made on the attachment points.
• Next, technological holes are prepared with a diameter 2 times smaller than the diameter of the self-tapping screw.
• Next comes the installation itself. In this case, the fasteners are screwed into pre-prepared holes with a screwdriver as deeply as possible.
• To mask the attachment points, the holes are subsequently closed with a wooden pin and sanded.

Fastening the lining with nails

Installation in this way is quite economical, simple, but at the same time somewhat unsafe, since there is a risk of the board splitting, and also short-lived. At the same time, in order to protect the lining from damage, you can use a hammer, or pre-prepare holes for fastening in the required places.

And yet, how to fasten the lining with nails? Let's begin, perhaps, to answer this question from afar, namely with a set of materials and tools:

• hammer, for complete driving of nails without damaging the board;
• hammer;
• lining, per room area;
• nails, 5-7 pieces per standard plank (100x1500).

This is the basic installation kit, it should be noted that high consumption nails will have a somewhat detrimental effect on the appearance, but it cannot be reduced, since in this case the fastening will not be strong enough.

To fasten the lining, nails 50-60 millimeters long are usually used. In this case, each fastener is carefully placed in a groove, and then hammered in. To remove the caps from the surface, which is necessary since they will interfere with the installation of subsequent boards, the nails are hammered as much as possible with a hammer.

What is it? These are peculiar metal plates, which include the presence of several holes for fastening, and a “tongue”, which will actually hold the material. This is a fairly reliable fastening element, with which you can reliably, and most importantly, fix almost any material without leaving a trace.

They become the most suitable for installing lining for several reasons:

• With the correct selection, you can fasten the lining as quickly, easily, and most importantly, without leaving a trace.
• Thanks to the manufacture of high-carbon steel, such an element can reliably fasten the structure, and it will withstand and high humidity, and temperature changes, and any other influences.

And the next question arises, how to properly fasten the lining with clamps so that it lasts as long as possible? Everything here is quite simple and does not require special preparation.

First you need to select the necessary elements. Typically, for a block house, clamps with a tongue height of 6 millimeters are used, while for standard eurolining it is 4 mm. When purchasing, you should also take into account the consumption, usually it is 20-25 pcs. on square meter linings.

Now let's look at the fastening process itself:

• The first board is secured with nails as standard.
• Next, the clamp is put on the tenon with a tongue, after which it is attached to the sheathing. Its fastening is carried out using nails, screws or a construction stapler. There are a total of three mounting holes, but only two are used.
• It is necessary to secure it on each frame beam with two nails (or other fasteners, depending on your choice). Typically, such products are already included in the set of clamps.
• In this way, each board is secured sequentially.

Fastening the lining with a stapler

The last type of fastening involves the use of a construction stapler. The method is simple and does not require much effort, but nevertheless requires some work experience, without which it would not be possible to attach the lining.

But you can go the other way and simply conduct a series of training sessions immediately before installation. Since the slightest inexperienced action can lead to significant defects surface, or deviation of the boards, which in turn will not only spoil the material and its appearance, as well as its performance capabilities.

The installation itself is quite simple. The board is applied to the frame, after which a bracket is inserted into the groove, this is done strictly at an angle of 45 degrees. It should be noted that any incorrect execution will entail defective insertion of the bracket, which in turn will interfere with the further installation of the next plank.

Conclusion

It should be noted that to obtain the required quality of finish, you should right choice method of fastening, since a lot depends on it. And the choice should be approached based on the requirements directly for the finished finish. The installation itself will not cause much trouble, since it is quite quick and simple, which allows you to do it yourself without additional help or the involvement of specialists. You can find out a little more detail by watching the video on how to attach the lining.

Finishing ceilings and walls with clapboard, be it wood, plastic or metal, involves performing successive stages of work. Keeping it right technological processes, you will receive high-quality and durable coating.

If you choose wooden materials, they are environmentally friendly and have mass beneficial properties, your home will be filled with a wonderful woody aroma. This is a chance to reconnect with nature and old traditions. Give warmth and comfort to your family and loved ones!

Depending on the type of material from which the lining is made, it is divided into the following types.

Wooden

This material has many subspecies, the difference of which is in the varieties and species of wood. It is environmentally friendly and suitable for framing any surfaces; it is often used for cladding partitions in apartments. Easy to install.

The only disadvantages include the need for pre-treatment and subsequent careful care.

Plastic

The plastic option allows you to save your budget. Suitable for both walls and ceilings. It looks aesthetically pleasing and fits almost seamlessly.

Disadvantages of the material - short service life. It fades in the sun and cracks in frost.

Metal

Such panels are made of aluminum and steel, which have an additional protective layer. The color scheme and texture can satisfy any buyer.

Aluminum products are designed to last quite a long time. Ideal for outdoor use. And as for steel, if the integrity is violated protective coating, corrosion processes will begin, and the metal will rot.

What is the difference between lining and eurolining

Both the first and second options allow you to finish any surface with high quality. However, eurolining differs in some characteristics:

• Euromaterial is produced from other types of wood using other technological processes;
• has an elongated groove for fastening;
• it has other geometric parameters;
• products undergo higher quality drying and special processing;
• characterized by an additional ventilation function;
• has a system for removing accumulated moisture, which protects the wood from destructive processes (special grooves are made on the back side of the panel so as not to disturb the aesthetics of the wood);
• has a higher cost.

Preparatory stage

Before you begin attaching the lining to any wall, you should carefully prepare.

Processing of wooden products

Initial wood processing is very important and comes first:

1. If you are using coniferous species, it is pre-degreased and the remaining tar stains are removed. Acetone works well for these manipulations. Then everything is wiped off damp cloth and dries.
2. To achieve the same shade of wood, treat it with a solution of oxalic acid and pharmaceutical peroxide.
3. It is best to immediately repair existing flaws with wood putty.
4. To preserve the natural texture and add richness to the shade, stain or similar special impregnations are ideal.

If you miss the moment of processing, clapboard-lined walls can bring a lot of trouble in the future! Chemical compositions, which is very important, protect against fungal infections and the activity of various insects that destroy the structure of the tree.

Preparing walls and ceilings

High-quality prepared walls and ceilings are the key to a successful outcome of the work and durability of the coating. Therefore, we proceed step by step:

1. All surfaces are cleaned of dust and other contaminants; you can use both a home and industrial vacuum cleaner.
2. Concrete and brick, in order to further prevent the proliferation of fungal colonies, are treated with antiseptic and water-repellent agents. Antibacterial and antipyrite (fireproof) solutions are suitable for wood surfaces.
3. Waterproofing on walls is necessary to create a water barrier in houses such as log houses or other wooden materials. Others do not need such protection. Installs immediately on concrete and brick surfaces vapor barrier layer(roofing felt, polyethylene, foil). The vapor barrier is mounted on fixed and leveled strips measuring 15x30 mm. How they will be installed - vertically or horizontally - depends on which orientation you prefer for the lining.

Note! If the lining for the walls will be located vertically, the sheathing is mounted horizontally, and the strips for the vapor barrier are already in a vertical position and vice versa.

The vapor barrier is secured using a stapler. Make sure that the material is not too stretched, otherwise when temperature changes it may sag and condensation will accumulate there.

How to make sheathing for lining

To correctly align the beams under the sheathing, follow the recommendations below:

• saturate the beams with a fireproof solution and protect them from fungal infections, as described above;
• install the slats perpendicular to the lining;
• maintain the same distance, the step between the bars should be 40–50 cm;
• leave gaps between the floor and ceiling;
• the frame must be perfectly level, use plumb lines or a level to check;
• the gaps that arise between the beams and the wall at the fastening points are filled with special spacers.

Installation of insulation

The insulation technology is quite simple. Most optimal combination layers will be:

• insulation;
• vapor barrier;
• lining.

The existing sheathing greatly facilitates the process additional insulation, the material is attached between the already installed racks.

One of the most popular and in demand insulation materials is polystyrene foam, but it is not at all suitable for rooms such as bathhouses. It's better to use here basalt wool. It has excellent characteristics, and, most importantly, does not burn.

Ways to fasten the lining

As a rule, any facing material has a tongue-and-groove system, it is designed for high-quality fixation of the planks among themselves. But the lining should also be nailed to the sheathing frame. To do this, use nails, clamps, staples or screws. In addition, the attachment points can be made hidden or open. It is important to ensure that the entire structure is properly fixed and that the planks are not damaged.

Mounting stapler

Using a mounting stapler, fasten the lining quickly and conveniently. The staples fit into the grooves and connect the facing elements well with the sheathing.

Kleimers

This method allows you to cover walls with clapboard very neatly, but is one of the most difficult. The nails must be driven directly into the grooves so they remain hidden.

The clamps securely fix the plank, but it is very important to initially accurately select the nails in size. Typically, sets of clamps already include nails; if they are not available, the choice should be based on the thickness of the grooves.

Screws and nails

This option involves diagonal fastening. The working strip is fixed in the groove of the previous one, and the head of a nail or self-tapping screw presses it to the base.

Screws

Special decorative screws are used to secure the board on the front side. To make your walls and ceilings look aesthetically pleasing, installation should be done extremely carefully.

Installation of accessories

Finishing ceilings and walls with clapboard also involves installing fittings that allow you to hide the edges of the material. Often, a fillet or plinth is used for these purposes; they are secured with small nails.

Basic installation rules:

• floor connecting strips are fixed to the floor;
• products for ceilings are fixed accordingly;
• strips for corners when adjacent wall the room is not lined with clapboard, mounted to this wall;
• strips for corners located between sheathed walls are installed on the shorter one.

When working with plastic lining, the fittings are glued.

We cover the wall with clapboard

It is very important, before starting cladding, to withstand wood material in a dry room for about 48 hours. If you get down to business right away, you risk getting the structure deformed. Make sure that you hold on during the work process. positive temperature and air humidity of at least 60%.

Horizontal arrangement

How to properly attach the lining to the wall:

1. Typically, the planks are installed in a horizontal direction. In this regard, we place the first bottom board with the tenon facing up.
2. Fastening is carried out from the far corner (relative to the entrance to the room).
3. To avoid visible defects on the top panel, we carefully monitor the horizon and vertical, starting from the first board.
4. We fix the first element and again check the level for possible errors.
5. Then we insert it into the grooves and secure the subsequent planks.

Vertical arrangement

As a rule, the lining is attached in the same way, both horizontally and vertically. Therefore, based on the instructions described above, we perform the following steps:

1. We expose the panels from the far corner. Let's fix the first one.
2. We drive the subsequent panels into the grooves and also fasten them. Be sure to monitor the density of the joint by lightly tapping the edge of the board.
3. Wide panels are better suited for this option. With their help you can create a beautiful plane with a small number of joints.

An experienced craftsman can complete such work within a day. When installation is completed, baseboards and corners are installed. Then the walls are treated with stain and varnish.

Features of fixing lining to the ceiling

We looked at what clapboard-lined walls look like, but how to sheathe ceilings correctly? Attaching the planks to the ceiling is carried out according to the same scheme as for vertical surfaces. Self-tapping screws and a screwdriver are very helpful here; sometimes small nails are used.

If the sheathing for the panels is made of wood, it is mounted in the same way as for the wall. However, it is better to leave the distance between the bars large. When a metal frame is planned, special hangers are installed, and the guide profile is fixed to them.

Advice! To finish the ceiling, get a second person to help. The work is not difficult, but it is quite difficult to hold the panels correctly and fasten them yourself.

How to properly attach the lining in a bathhouse

Typically, the construction of bathhouses is made of pine wood. Many people are interested in the question of how to properly sheathe interior walls with your own hands. You should know that pine needles are no longer suitable for finishing a steam room; high temperatures it begins to secrete resin. When the vapors are still weak, this aroma has a calming effect and encourages relaxation. But rich odors lead to heavier air, which is not at all good. Therefore, it is better to use birch or alder as a finishing material, which emit medicinal aromas that have a lot of useful properties.

It is also important to use special wooden nails for covering the steam room. Everyone knows that hardware During the heating process, the rooms themselves become heated and upon contact with the skin they can cause a burn.

If you familiarize yourself with the main rules and approach the process competently, cladding the walls of your own home is not at all difficult, it is even interesting. It doesn’t matter which profile you prefer, you now know how to attach both wooden and plastic lining.

Believe that everything will work out! Good luck! And see you again!

Information on how to fasten the lining may be needed in two cases: if you plan to do it yourself or if you want to be sure that employees construction company They don’t hack things, they follow technology. Our article will help you understand this issue and take into account all the nuances.

Installing lining is not a difficult task, but requires knowledge and experience

How to prepare the base

It is allowed to attach the lining directly to the wall or ceiling only under the following conditions:

if the surface is very flat and strictly level. This can be a wall made of timber, lined with OSB boards, plywood or other sheet material;

if the temperature and humidity in the building being finished is stable throughout the year. That is, it should be a dry, heated room with a normal microclimate.

In all other cases, before attaching the lining to the wall, a frame of parallel wooden blocks is installed on it. The distance between them is 40-60 cm. This frame allows you to solve several problems at once:

level the surface;

level out level differences;

create between the base and cladding air gap for ventilation of the rear surface of the lining.

Also, the space between the wall and the finish can be filled with heat-insulating materials, which is often resorted to before installing the lining in a bathhouse or sauna.

The thickness of the bars for the sheathing is selected taking into account the thickness of the insulation and the ventilation gap

The frame is secured to the base with self-tapping screws or dowel nails, depending on the wall material. When installing it, the level is constantly monitored - all bars must be in the same horizontal (ceiling) or vertical (walls) plane.

How to choose the direction of installation of panels

Before you start constructing the frame, you need to choose in which direction the lining boards will be attached. This is important because the sheathing guide bars must run perpendicular to the direction of the sheathing.

There are several ways:

vertical- the most common. It allows you to visually increase the height of the room. For such wet rooms as a steam room in a bathhouse, it is also the most optimal, since water easily flows along the grooves between adjacent slats without lingering on the surface;

horizontal– visually pushes the walls apart. Some types of lining are attached only in the horizontal direction. These include the "American" and the board with the chosen quarter;

The “American” is mounted with the spike facing up to ensure normal water drainage from the surface

On our website you can get acquainted with the most – from construction companies, presented at the exhibition of houses “Low-Rise Country”.

diagonal- used for the purpose decorative design walls and ceiling;

combined- Also decorative method styling, which allows you to create patterns from multidirectional lamellas. It is the most complex of those listed, since the lining is attached to the transverse bars of the sheathing, which in turn must have a corresponding pattern.

The combined method of fastening the lining is difficult to do independently. It is better to entrust this work to specialists

How to attach

Mount wooden lining This can be done using self-tapping screws, nails or special fasteners - clamps. Each method has its own characteristics and advantages. If we are talking about how to properly attach the lining, then you can choose any of them. The choice itself depends on what is preferred: appearance cladding, installation speed, the ability to quickly and easily dismantle the cladding.

Note. Regardless of the chosen installation method, the elements are connected to each other by tightly inserting the next tenon into the groove of the previous panel.

The tongue-and-groove connection forms a continuous surface without through gaps

Let's look at each method in detail.

Through mount

This is the most quick way installation, but not the most aesthetically pleasing, since the caps of the fastening elements remain visible on the surface of the cladding. If desired, they can be recessed into the body of the board, and the recesses can be filled with putty or closed with pins made of the same type of wood as the lining, and then sanded. However, the attachment points will still remain visible.

In the described case, you have to carefully choose how to fasten the lining. It is recommended to use corrosion-resistant galvanized self-tapping screws rather than nails, which, when driven in, have a high risk of splitting the board along the grain of the wood. Under them, in each plank at the place of its intersection with the sheathing, pre-drilled through holes with a diameter slightly smaller than the diameter of the hardware.

It is better to screw in the screws in pairs, retreating 1-1.5 cm from the edges of the lamella

Also, through fastening is used to fix the first and last boards of the lining in the corners.

This might be interesting! In the article at the following link, read about how to choose the right lining for the facade of a house.

Hidden mount

The first lining is installed with a tenon in the corner and fixed with a through fastening. At the same time, be sure to control the vertical level;

at the intersection of the lining with the sheathing bars, use a thin drill to make through holes on inside groove, directing the drill at an angle of 45° to the surface;

A self-tapping screw is screwed into the prepared hole or a nail is driven in so that its head is recessed into the wood and does not interfere with the installation of the next lamella. In the case of nails, a hammer is used for this;

the second board is driven with a tenon into the groove of the already installed one and the process is repeated;

Scheme of hidden fastening of lining with nails

The last board, if necessary, is cut to width and fixed with a through fastening along the edge. Subsequently, the through-fastening points can be closed decorative corners or baseboard.

Fastening with clamps

Clamps are metal fasteners that allow you to maintain the integrity of the lining, secure it firmly to the frame, and, if necessary, easily dismantle the cladding.

To understand how to fasten the lining with clamps, you will need a description of this fastening element. This metal plate with holes along the edge through which it is fixed to the frame. In the middle part of the plate there is a tongue that fits onto the groove of the lining and holds it in place.

Clasps may differ in shape and size, but the most important thing is the height to which the tongue is raised. It should be equal to the wall thickness of the groove of the wooden panel. Therefore, before attaching the eurolining to the wall, make sure that the clamps are designed specifically for this type of cladding.

When using clamps wood panel remains unharmed

The installation technology is very simple; it does not require pre-drilling holes. The kleimer is simply put on the groove of the already secured first board of the lining, and through the holes on the plate it is attached to the sheathing. The thickness of the tongue will not prevent you from inserting the tenon of the next panel into the groove, which is fixed in a similar way.

To secure the clamps, you can use both nails and self-tapping screws.

And finally, a few tips that will ensure the reliability, durability and aesthetic appeal of wood cladding:

All wooden surfaces Before installation, including the sheathing, it is advisable to treat it with an antiseptic impregnation, especially if a wet room or external walls are finished with clapboard. This will prevent the spread of mold.

When finishing interior spaces materials must be kept in them for two to three days for acclimatization.

The lined surface can be painted, coated with oil, wax, varnish, or stain. Pre-priming will reduce the consumption of varnish or paint.

Video description

For a clear overview of the technology for installing lining on clamps, watch the video:

Conclusion

If you want to decorate a bathhouse or balcony yourself, the most environmentally friendly solution would be to use lining. Wood is easy and pleasant to work with, but such work requires attention and certain skills. Experienced finishers do an excellent job with it, and you can always invite them if you don’t have the time or self-confidence.