It is better to entrust the drainage of a summer cottage to specialists. However, if this is not possible, then you can try to figure it out yourself. First of all, you need to understand the types of drainage and various schemes its devices, as well as its purpose.

Drainage is simply necessary because this system protects the house and site from excess moisture. If you install it incorrectly, the effect may be the opposite. This will lead to flooding and soil erosion.

Types of drainage

In order to properly drain a site, it is necessary to analyze its types and understand the peculiarities of each one.

Drainage happens:

• superficial;
• deep.

Surface can be easily done with your own hands without the involvement of craftsmen. This is a relatively easy job.

Pay attention! It is best to carry out deep drainage at the stage of building a house.

The building also needs protection. It often happens that the flow groundwater penetrates underground spaces. Water can flood a cellar, garage, underground parking lot or recreation room. It all depends on what is below the surface of the earth.

Do-it-yourself surface drainage of the site is carried out using various rain inlets and trays. This type of drainage got its name because the entire system is located on the surface. Trays can successfully cope with flows of rainwater, as well as moisture that forms as a result of melting snow.

There are two types of surface drainage: point and linear.

1. Spot. Such a system consists of water collectors, which, in turn, are connected to the sewerage system. Water collection devices are usually installed under drains, in low spots and under taps.
2. Linear. This type of drainage is done using trays that are laid in a special way. The system resembles a canal that slopes towards a well. This is where moisture from rainfall comes in.

It cannot be said that one type of drainage is better than another. Often both varieties are used together for greater effectiveness. All devices in the system require regular cleaning, otherwise they will no longer function properly. A well-organized drain serves well and does its job.

With spot planning, trays are installed, first of all, under the sewer pipes of the house. Otherwise, water will constantly fall on the foundation and on the site.

Improper planning will lead to moisture penetration into the underground rooms.

The trays must be installed so that they are underground. They will have to run pipes to the sewer system. The top of the tray is covered with a grill. It is both protective and decorative element simultaneously. To clean the tray, you only need to lift the grill and remove debris from the container.

Linear drainage

The linear system has been known for a very long time. It was used in Ancient Egypt and Babylon. Today, only the materials used have changed, but the operating principle remains the same.

The most common mistake when arranging drainage system is that it is installed without proper design. When installing drainage pipes and systems, you must first understand the situation. In this case, it is necessary to analyze the site itself and the nature of the groundwater.

For example, water very often affects the foundation. To protect it, you need to design a drainage system when building a house. In this case, it will be necessary to install an additional basement, which will serve as a barrier to groundwater. If the design was done incorrectly, the situation can only become more complicated. Groundwater will flow into the basement and affect the foundation. IN difficult cases you will have to contact specialists.

High humidity in your area is fraught with harmful consequences: water suppresses root system plant crops, which provokes their diseases and subsequent death. Moreover, moisture washes away the foundation of the building and outbuildings, so the structures are flooded and begin to quickly collapse. Is it possible to avoid such problems? Best option to prevent them - a drainage device on dacha area. This procedure is not so complicated that it requires hiring professional builders- you can do it yourself. And in order for you to succeed, we invite you to learn more about the advantages and features of drainage and get acquainted with the most in simple ways its arrangement.

Why is drainage needed?

Every summer resident invariably asks the same question: does his plot really need drainage? You can find the answer yourself - just evaluate your dacha area. Your garden is often overgrown with sedge, there are puddles in the area for a long time after rain, the ground dries out for a long time after watering or melting snowdrifts - the first signs that you cannot do without drainage. To further verify this, conduct a simple experiment: dig a hole 50-70 cm deep - if after a day it is full of water, proceed to arranging the system without hesitation.

But there are four more conditions under which drainage is required:

• groundwater lies very high;
• the dacha stands on dense clay soil;
• the site is located on a pronounced slope or, conversely, in a lowland;
• Your area experiences heavy rainfall regularly.

As you can see, drainage is indispensable in almost all areas. So, if you want plants and trees to delight you with their growth, paths not to become deformed, and your dacha not to be flooded, start construction work.

Types of systems: surface and deep site drainage

When the question of the importance of drainage is closed, decide what kind of system you need. It can be of two types.

Superficial- the simplest drainage option. His functional purpose- drain water that gets on land plot in the form of various precipitation, such as rain or snow. This system works great on flat terrain without pronounced slopes. This drainage is essentially a system of ditches located along the entire perimeter of the site. Over time, water collected in ditches is either discharged into a special reservoir or simply evaporates. The surface system can be combined with traditional storm drainage.

Deep– drainage closed type. Such a system is needed if your site:

• located on uneven terrain;
• located on clay soil;
• has high groundwater;
• for any other reason is difficult to operate.

Deep drainage makes it possible to effectively protect not only vegetable and garden crops from increased moisture, but also the dacha itself and all utility rooms.

Advice. Since the installation of a deep drainage system requires serious earthworks, it is recommended to do this even before you start planting the main part of the crops. Even more best option, if possible, arrange drainage in parallel with laying the foundation.

Preparatory work

Drainage is an engineering structure that is an extensive system of trenches and pipes. All its elements are interconnected and scattered, as a rule, along the entire perimeter of the site. Based on the above features, installation work you cannot start without a clear design of the drainage system.

The project must indicate following points: location of all drainage trenches, water flow, diagram of vertical drainage sections, location of wells, depth of drains. It is also important to determine the dimensions of all components of the system and their slope relative to the top soil. So detailed project plan will give you the opportunity to quickly navigate the location of all elements of the drainage system during its arrangement, that is, it will simply make your work easier.

An important component of pre-construction procedures is the preparation of a set of tools and consumables that are necessary for installation work:

• perforated pipes with a diameter of 75-100 mm;
• parts for connecting pipes - couplings and fittings;
• drainage wells;
• hacksaw;
• tamping tool;
• rail;
• building level;
• geotextile for drainage;
• crushed stone;
• sand;
• shovel;
• wheelbarrow for transporting earth and supplying building materials.

Construction of a surface drainage system

Performing this type of drainage is technically a simple process.

1. Dig a trench along the entire perimeter of the dacha area: depth - 70 cm, width - 50 cm. Its slope should be at least 25-30 degrees towards the water drainage.
2. Dig auxiliary ditches at the same angle.
3. Lead the trench and ditches to a single drainage well.

Advice. To make sure your trench is working, do a simple test: pour water into the trench and see if it flows in the right direction, that is, towards the well. If you notice deviations, be sure to adjust the angle of the trench walls, otherwise the system will not be able to fully perform its functions.

1. Place drainage geotextiles in the finished trenches.
2. Fill the trenches with various sizes of crushed stone on the geofabric: two-thirds - large grains, and one-third - small grains.
3. Place turf on a layer of fine crushed stone.

In the second case, the continuation of drainage construction after digging a trench looks like this:

1. Prepare plastic drainage trays.
2. Place a layer of sand no more than 10 cm at the bottom of the trench. Compact it well using a manual trench.
3. Place plastic trays in the trench.
4. Install sand traps.
5. Mount on trays decorative grilles– they will protect the drainage from debris and leaves, and also give it a more attractive appearance.

Deep drainage on clay soils and other difficult terrain

Algorithm for constructing a deep system on difficult areas is:

As you can see, in the design of the drainage system on summer cottage nothing is unrealistic, so don’t be afraid to take on this kind of work yourself. The main thing is to accurately determine the required type of drainage and follow the rules for its installation. And don’t forget that by making an effort just once, you can protect yourself from a lot of problems in the future, namely, from the death of garden and garden crops and flooding of your own dacha.

Do-it-yourself drainage at the dacha: photo

Experienced builders and country residents know well that “excess” water on the site is bad. Excess water leads to flooding of the foundation and ground floor, washout of the base, flooding of beds, waterlogging of the area, etc. As a result, in spring, autumn and even summer you cannot walk around your summer cottage without rubber boots.

In this article we will look at:

• How to arrange water drainage on the site.
• How to make a budget one with your own hands storm sewer.
• Drainage device. How to make inexpensive drainage and drain a wetland.

What kind of water interferes with the life of a developer and a country homeowner?

A whole book could be written about the types of surface and ground water, as well as drainage and storm sewer systems. Therefore, we will leave beyond the scope of this article a detailed listing of the types and causes of groundwater occurrence, and will concentrate on practice. But without minimal theoretical knowledge, start independent arrangement drainage and storm sewer - throwing money away.

The point is that even an improperly designed drainage system functions for the first few years. Then, due to clogging (silting) of a pipe wrapped in geotextile, which was placed in clayey, loamy, etc. soil, drainage stops working. But money has already been spent on drainage construction and, most importantly, drainage construction involves a large volume of earthworks with the use of technology.

Therefore, simply digging up and relaying a drainage pipe 3-5 years after it was laid is difficult and costly. The site is already inhabited, done landscape design, a blind area has been equipped, a gazebo, a bathhouse, etc. have been installed.

You will have to rack your brains on how to redo the drainage so as not to ruin the entire area.

From here - drainage construction should always be based on geological soil survey data(which will help you find a waterproof layer in the form of clay at a depth of 1.5-2 m), hydrogeological surveys and clear knowledge of what kind of water leads to flooding of a house or waterlogging of an area.

Surface waters are seasonal in nature, associated with the period of snowmelt and abundance of rain. Groundwater is divided into three main groups:

• Capillary water.
• Ground water.
• Verkhovodka.

Moreover, if surface water is not drained in time, when infiltrated (absorbed) into the ground it turns into underground water.

The volume of surface water usually exceeds the volume of groundwater.

Conclusion: surface runoff must be drained using storm drainage systems, and don’t try to do surface drainage!

Storm drainage is a system consisting of trays, pipes or ditches dug into the ground that carry water from drains outside the site + competent organization relief on the personal territory. This will allow you to avoid stagnant zones on the site (lenses, pools), where water will accumulate, which simply has nowhere to go, and further waterlogging.

The main mistakes that are made when independent device drainage:

• Failure to maintain the correct slope of laid drainage pipes. If we take an average, then the slope is maintained in the range from 0.005 to 0.007, i.e. 5-7 mm per 1 running meter drainage pipe.

• Using a drainage pipe in a geotextile wrap on “wrong” soil. To avoid silting, pipes in geotextiles are used on soils consisting of clean medium- and coarse-grained sands.

• Using cheaper crushed limestone instead of granite, which is washed away by water over time.
• Saving on high-quality geotextiles, which must have certain hydraulic properties that affect the quality of drainage. This is an effective pore size of 175 microns, i.e. 0.175 mm, as well as transverse Kf, which should be at least 300 m/day (with a single pressure gradient).

Inexpensive do-it-yourself storm drain

The first thing that comes to mind in order to equip a budget option for storm drainage on a site is to lay special trays.

Trays can be made of concrete or plastic, but they are expensive. This makes our portal users look for more cheap options arrangement of storm drainage and drainage systems from the site.

Denis1235 FORUMHOUSE Member

I need to make an inexpensive storm drain, about 48 m long, along the edge of the fence, for drainage melt water, which come from a neighbor. The water must be drained into a ditch. I was wondering how to drain the water. At first it occurred to me to buy and install special trays, but then they would be left with “extra” grates, and I don’t need any special aesthetics for the storm drain. I decided to buy asbestos-cement pipes and saw them lengthwise with a grinder, thereby getting a homemade tray.

Despite the budgetary nature of this idea, the user was not attracted to the need to cut asbestos-cement pipes on his own. The second option is the opportunity to buy gutters (plastic or metal) and lay them on a prepared base in a concrete layer of about 100 mm.

Portal users dissuaded Denis1235 from this idea in favor of the first option, which is more durable.

Hooked on the idea of ​​an inexpensive storm drain, but not wanting to deal with cutting pipes on my own, Denis1235 I found a factory that produces asbestos-cement pipes, where they will immediately cut them into pieces 2 m long (so that the 4-meter one does not crack during transportation) and ready-made trays will be delivered to the site. All that remains is to develop a scheme for laying the trays.

The result is the following “pie”:

• Soil base in the form of a bed.
• A layer of sand or ASG about 5 cm thick.
• Concrete about 7 cm.
• Tray made of asbestos-cement pipe.

When installing such a storm drain, do not forget to lay metal mesh(for reinforcement) at the joints and leave a deformation gap (3-5 mm) between the trays.

Denis1235

As a result, I made a budget rain shower at the dacha. It took 2 days to dig the trench, another two days to pour concreting and install the route. I spent 10 thousand rubles on trays.

Practice has shown that the route “overwintered” well, did not crack and intercepts water from its neighbor, leaving the area dry. Also interesting is the option of rainwater (storm) sewerage for a portal user with the nickname yury_by.

yury_by FORUMHOUSE Member

Because The crisis doesn’t seem to be ending, then I started thinking about how to install a storm drain to drain rainwater away from the house. I want to solve the problem, save money, and do everything efficiently.

After some thought, the user decided to make a storm drain for water drainage based on flexible double-walled corrugated pipes(they are 2 times cheaper than “red” sewer pipes), which are used for installation power cables underground. But, because the depth of the drainage route is planned to be only 200-300 mm with a pipe diameter of 110 mm, yury_by I was afraid that the corrugated pipe might break in the winter if water got between the two layers.

In the end yury_by I decided to take a budget “gray” pipe, which is used when arranging internal sewerage. Although he had concerns that the pipes, which were not as rigid as the “red” ones, would break in the ground, practice has shown that nothing happened to them.

yury_by

If you step on the “gray” pipe, it turns into an oval, but there are no significant loads in the place where I buried it. The lawn has just been laid and there is foot traffic. Having laid the pipe in the trench and sprinkled it with soil, I made sure that they kept their shape and the storm drain was working.

The user liked the option of installing an inexpensive storm drain based on “gray” sewer pipes so much that he decided to repeat it. All the nuances of the process are clearly demonstrated by the following photographs.

We dig a hole to collect water.

Level the base.

We install a concrete ring.

The next stage is to fill the bottom of the well with gravel of fraction 5-20.

Cast from concrete homemade lid well.

We paint the manhole cover.

We make an insert into the well with drainage plastic “gray” sewer pipe, maintaining a slope of the route of 1 cm per 1 linear meter.

We spill the pipe with a mixture of sand and water so that there are no voids left between the walls of the trench and the pipe.

To prevent the pipe from floating, it can be pressed down with a brick or board.

We put the lid on, install the hatch and fill everything with soil.

This completes the production of the budget rain shower.

Construction of low-cost drainage and drainage of wetlands

Not everyone gets the “right” plots. In SNT or in new cuts, the land may be very swampy, or the developer may have a peat bog. Build on such land normal house for permanent residence, not light summer cottage- both difficult and expensive. There are two ways out of this situation - sell/exchange the plot or start draining and putting the plot in order.

In order not to deal with various expensive alterations in the future, users of our portal offer budget options drainage and drainage of the territory at the base car tires. This option allows you to save your family budget.

Yuri Podymakhin Member of FORUMHOUSE

Peat soil is characterized high level groundwater. On my site, the water is almost level with the surface, and after rain it does not go into the ground. To drain the top water, it must be thrown outside the site. I didn't spend money on the purchase special pipes for drainage, but made drainage from car tires.

The system is installed as follows: a ditch is dug, tires are placed in it, and the tires are covered with polyethylene on top so that the earth from above does not fall in. Polyethylene can also be additionally pressed with pieces of slate that are “unnecessary” in the household. This will increase the overall rigidity of the structure. Water enters the “tire” pipeline and is then discharged outside the site.

But there are also “harder” places where much more needs to be done.

Seryoga567 FORUMHOUSE Member

I have a plot in SNT with a total area of ​​8 acres. There is a building on the site that I plan to complete and expand. The place is very low. Because drainage grooves for drainage in SNT they are in a deplorable state, where they are buried, littered or clogged, then the water does not go anywhere. The water level is so high that you can draw water from the well with a bucket, holding it by the handle. In the spring, the water in the dacha sits for a long time, the area actually turns into a swamp and, if it dries out, it is only in the summer when it is very hot. Drive drainage ditches no one wants to get in order, so everyone floats around. Therefore, I decided that it was useless to fight with my neighbors. You need to raise your site and find a way to dispose of all the “unnecessary” water from the site.

If your site is located in a lowland or the groundwater level is very high, then without constructing at least the simplest drainage system it will not be possible to get rid of dampness. Of course, if you do everything using technology, the costs will be very high, but there are more simple options, which will cost you pennies. At the same time, their effectiveness has been tested for decades, and you can be sure that your work will not be in vain and your dacha will become dry.

System options

I'll tell you how to organize water drainage at your dacha with two in different ways. Despite the fact that they are different, they are united by two factors: extreme low cost of implementation and the ability to carry out the work on their own, since everything is simple and clear. You just need to read the information and choose the option that is better suited to your conditions and will be more convenient to use.

Open system

Let's figure out how to make an open drainage system on the site. This option is good for those who suffer from precipitation and decide to make a system for quick and effective water drainage.

You can do the work without using any materials, but to improve the result and make our drainage more reliable, you can use the following:

• Crushed stone, broken brick or concrete may be needed to reinforce the bottom of our canals. Your communications will not be washed out even during heavy rainfalls, which is important in areas with frequent and heavy rainfall;

• If you want to make the system even more reliable, the easiest way is to line its walls with geotextile, this is the name of a special material that strengthens the walls of the channels and at the same time allows moisture to pass through. With its help, you can protect the walls from sliding on weak soils, and also prevent the system from eroding over time. As for the cost, it ranges from 15 rubles per square meter.

By and large, the only tool we need is a shovel, and we will use it to make the entire system. For convenience, I would advise you to get a level so that when digging trenches you don’t get distracted by the slope and don’t make it too large, this is also not very good.

Let's move on to consider the workflow itself, it is performed in the following sequence:

• First of all, you need to make a sketch of the site on paper, just draw a rectangle or a figure of a different shape if you have a piece of land of a different configuration. After this, you must figure out in which places water constantly accumulates and whether there is a natural slope of the level in one direction or another, this is very important, because if you figure everything out correctly, the work process will be greatly simplified;
• If you have a ditch along the perimeter for waste water, it also needs to be applied. Sometimes it can pass from one or two sides, then you will have to make communications so that they go in a certain direction;
• Next, we need to take measurements with a tape measure in order to accurately mark low spots and problem areas on our plan. There is no point in doing this by eye, since we will not be able to make an exact design, and in the process of work it will turn out that the system we conceived cannot be made due to certain interferences;

• Based on all the information, the design of our drainage channels is made; they should consist of main highways and junctions, which for greatest efficiency are adjacent at an acute angle. As a result, the system resembles a Christmas tree and should be directed towards draining water from the boundaries of the site. Below is an example of a rather complex drainage from the site irregular shape, you can usually get by with a simpler configuration;

• If the drainage ditch or ditches are clogged, then they must be deepened and cleaned; if the water has nowhere to go, then drainage will be of little use. Therefore, always start work from this part of the system, if necessary, strengthen its bottom with crushed stone, and the walls can be covered with old slate. Slate can also be used for channels on the site, if you have one;

• Next, you need to move on to digging the axial elements of the system; they should have a depth of up to 50 centimeters; it is better to make the walls flat so that they do not collapse during the wet period of the year. The work is simple, but will take a lot of effort. It is important to remember that a slope of approximately 2-3 centimeters per meter must be maintained so that water leaves your area by gravity;

• Next, all the branches are dug, and I recommend doing them from the main channel so that you can immediately make the desired slope. This is much easier than starting from the end and trying to get to the main line with the correct slope. It may turn out that the level difference will be large due to the significant length of the branch, there is nothing wrong with that, the main thing is that there is a drain, and it does not matter that at the end it will be very shallow;

To check the slopes, you can pour water into the trench from a hose; it should go where it is needed.

• As I wrote above, to make the channel walls more reliable, they can be reinforced with geotextiles. Here the work is very simple: the material is laid out along all the channels so that it lies on the surface, where it is better to press it with bricks or stones. I recommend pouring a thin layer of crushed stone onto the bottom, then the material will be securely fixed and will not bunch up at the joints;

Of course, this option is very cheap and simple, but not everyone wants to have an extensive network of canals on their site, and moving between them without building masonry is not easy. Therefore, the second type of system is more rational and convenient.

Closed system

Draining a summer cottage without open channels requires the construction of pipelines, but I will tell you about a cheaper solution, and first we will figure out what materials are required for this.

The only tool we need is a shovel, so there is no point in dwelling on this aspect.

Instructions on how to arrange closed drainage in a dacha are as follows:

• First of all, as in the first case, you need to make a plan of the site on a real scale; it will also not be superfluous to take measurements so that you can see exactly where the water needs to be drained from and to;
• Next, you should make a sketch of future communications, taking into account all the factors described above. Since the system will be closed, it can pass under paths and lawns, the main thing is to carefully disassemble and then assemble all the structures;
• The next stage is digging trenches. They can have smooth walls, and their depth is usually from 25 to 50 cm, it all depends on the site and the groundwater level on it. When digging, do not forget about the slope, the water will move where the drain is directed, and if you forget about this factor, then there will be little benefit from the system;

Personally, when working, I throw a level into the trench from time to time to see if I'm doing everything as it should.

• Next, the bottom of the channel is compacted; if you have crushed stone or gravel, you can fill it up thin layer, if there is nothing, then you can do it this way. Bottles with screwed caps are stacked in two rows close to each other along the entire length of the trench from beginning to end. If there is a film or roofing felt, then the bottles are covered on top, if not, then they are left as is;

Do not place bottles in one row; this is ineffective, as practice has shown. There is a lot between the two rows more space, and moisture is removed much better.

• Lastly, the soil is poured in a thin layer, compacted, then backfilled to the very top and finally leveled. Do not press too hard so as not to damage the bottles; when tamping, they are slightly deformed, but there is still a space between them through which the water flows out.

The price of this design is zero rubles, but the benefits from it are enormous, many have already tried a simple solution with bottles, and I only heard good reviews. Therefore, if you want to get rid of water and do not want to spend a lot of money, then this option is for you.

If you need spot drainage in areas drainpipes, then you can take the same plastic bottle, cut off the bottom and stick the neck between the bottles in the drainage channel, the moisture will be removed very well.

Plastic can lie in the ground for up to 50 years, it does not emit harmful substances into the soil. Which is also an important factor.

Conclusion

You can make drainage in your dacha for practically nothing, the main thing is to follow all the above recommendations and not forget about slopes for unhindered water flow. The video in this article will tell you in even more detail some important aspects, and if you have questions and clarifications on the topic, write them in the comments under this review.

You can easily do it on the site with your own hands if necessary. This may be required when the territory is marked excess humidity, which can cause many problems. If you have not thought about this issue, then the first signs that you should pay attention to are stagnant puddles. They may not leave the site for several days or even weeks. Do not worry about the disadvantages of the territory, since after some time you will certainly encounter problems such as not only the foundation getting wet, but also its destruction. You cannot avoid minor troubles in the form of wet plants and trees, which excess moisture they may even die. Especially often, installing drainage on a site with your own hands is necessary if it is located in a lowland where the groundwater level is high.

Types of drainage

Drainage can be arranged in one of several ways. The first is called deep drainage, the second - superficial. The latter of these is used to drain water from a site that accumulates after seasonal floods or heavy rainfall, while the first is used to reduce the level of soil moisture through drainage. The type of drainage, as a rule, is selected not only depending on the condition of the site, but also according to the owner's preferences. Despite the fact that each variety has differences and its own characteristics, you can arrange it on your own.

Features of drainage design

Do-it-yourself drainage installation on the site must be done according to the rules. So, if we talk about the surface, then this type can be point or linear. The first is intended to drain liquid from oversized areas that are very isolated. But if there is a need to cope with the accumulation of water, then it is necessary to equip water intakes, which basically involve the presence of point drainage. These can be areas that are located under drains, in low-lying terrain, as well as in the lower part of terraces; entry areas are also suitable for installing point drainage. This system is the simplest and does not require the preliminary preparation of a special scheme.

Installing drainage on a site with your own hands will be more difficult if we are talking about a system linear type. This type of drainage provides for the task of draining water from buildings, in addition, such systems are perfectly capable of protecting the paths on the site from the water of the paths, they perfectly protect the entrances, and also resist the washout of the fertile soil layer from the territory of the suburban area.

Features of linear drainage

If we describe linear drainage, we can say the following: this design is represented by a pre-planned system of shallow trenches. The latter are laid at a certain angle, located along the perimeter of the territory and in those places where the accumulation of water is most noticeable. Drainage device on garden plot with your own hands involves drawing up a site plan. There must be a main trench, which is necessary to collect water entering the ditches. Its end should be in a water intake, which can be a ravine or a traditional storm drain.

During the design, it is necessary to take into account places where water stagnation occurs. This is necessary in order to lay trenches from these points to the main drainage system. You need to understand that the drainage slope must also be correctly calculated, otherwise the water will not drain. The smallest drainage slope is 0.003 m for sandy soils. Regarding clay soils, then this indicator should be equal to 0.002 m. The water intake must be positioned so that its position is below the linear drainage; it is with this calculation that it is necessary to drain the area with your own hands. Drainage of areas, as practice shows, occurs most effectively if the slope is made equal to 0.005-0.01 m.

Features of surface drainage arrangement

When arranging surface drainage of an area, two methods must be used. The first one is open. It involves digging open trenches. The walls of such structures should be formed at an angle of 30°; these are the parameters that will allow liquid to flow freely into the ditch. The structure should have a width of within 0.5 m, while its depth should be equivalent to 0.7 m. The main advantage of such a system is its ease of execution. However, there is also a serious disadvantage, which is expressed in unaesthetic appearance, this is what will spoil general impression from the site.

Strengthening the walls of the drainage system

Among other things, it should be noted that if the walls are not strengthened, they will soon begin to crumble, which will render the structure unusable. This problem can be solved by using crushed stone backfill, which prevents the destruction of the trench, but there is no way to avoid the fact that it will be significantly reduced.

Do-it-yourself drainage of the site, the technology of which must be studied before starting work, involves filling the lower part of the groove with crushed stone; in this case, it is necessary to use coarse-grained material, while for the upper part you should use fine-grained crushed stone. This will solve the problem of crumbling walls. Everything can be covered with turf on top.

The problem of shedding can also be solved by using drainage trays mounted in trenches; everything must be covered with gratings on top. The latter are necessary in order to prevent the entry of debris. The base of the trays can be concrete, plastic or polymer concrete, while the grating can be steel or plastic.

Features of the deep drainage device

If you are interested in the site, then you can also consider the features of installing a deep-type structure. This will reduce the overall soil moisture. In order to ensure effective work system, it should be located below the groundwater line. Initially, a geodetic plan of the site is made, which will allow us to understand where the aquifer lies.

In order to determine at what depth the drains will lie, it is necessary to take into account the average values. Thus, the pipes can be located at a depth of 0.6 to 1.5 m.

If you have to work with the territory in which peat soils, trenches should be laid deeper, this is due to the fact that such soils settle quite quickly. The installation depth is within 1-1.6 m. In order to work on arranging the system, it is necessary to use perforated pipes. As a rule, they are based on plastic. Do-it-yourself drainage in a summer cottage, the design of which is described in the article, is done using drains, as for the deep system. Thus, drains are pipes Ø50-200 mm, in which there are holes Ø1.5-5 mm.

In the case of a deep system, as in the case of surface drainage, the system assumes the presence of a main trench. It will begin to collect moisture from secondary pipes, and its end will go into the water intake. When drawing up a plan, it is necessary to take into account that they will be mounted on a base of sand and crushed stone. During the work, it will be necessary to equip trenches. To do this, channels are dug, the width of which is 40 cm. The base is laid on the bottom in layers, only then can you begin laying the pipe. Sometimes it is wrapped in geotextile, which helps protect the holes from clogging.

Installation of wells

Without the help of specialists at the first level, deep drainage of the site cannot be done with your own hands; a project or device must be entrusted to a team of professionals. In order to be able to control the drainage process and clean the system, it is necessary to install special wells. They may be based on reinforced concrete. However, if the drainage depth is no more than 3 m, then structures should be supplemented with covers to prevent debris from entering.

It is necessary to follow all the rules, if you decide to install drainage on the site, the general idea of ​​deep-type drainage involves placing wells in a straight line in steps of 50 m; as for a winding trench, there should be wells at every turn. Be sure to contact the geodetic service if the need arises to build such deep system drainage