The main task of renovation in most houses and apartments is to bring the walls into normal condition. After all, a couple of decades ago, almost no one thought perfectly smooth walls and didn’t think about it. They were leveled according to the “at least somehow” principle. The situation can be corrected according to all the rules: knock down the old plaster and completely plaster it along the beacons. This is correct and reliable. But long, dirty, expensive. It is easier to use the so-called dry methods: level the surface of the wall with plasterboard (gypsum plasterboard). The second task that often has to be solved during the renovation process is redevelopment. We remove old partitions and install new ones. New interior and decorative partitions also done using drywall. We will tell you how to level and install plasterboard walls with your own hands in the article.

How to cover walls with plasterboard

First, let's consider the case when you need to level the surface of existing walls. There are three options for attaching drywall to walls:

The latest technology - installing plasterboard with glue - is the fastest, but it also has disadvantages. The first is that there is not glue under the finishing everywhere, so hanging cabinets on such a wall is problematic. If you plan in advance to attach something to the wall, lay a continuous layer of glue at this height or install an embedded beam, which will also serve as an additional beacon when setting the sheet level. Then the problem will be solved. Another minus is that there are small differences. That is, the surface turns out to be imperfect. The difference is 2-3 mm. Between the “pieces” of glue, the sheet bends slightly. However, this is a good way to quickly level a wall.

For more information on how to glue drywall to a wall, watch the video.

Fastening to the frame

Since no fasteners are needed when gluing drywall to a wall, we will talk about a frame and mostly a metal one. The rules for attaching to wood are the same, you just use wood screws.

GKL dimensions and purpose

A few words about what sizes the sheets come in and how to lay plasterboard on the walls. Standard sizes such: the width is always 1.2 m, the height is 2.5 and 3 meters. Sometimes there are “non-standard” ones of shorter length: shorter ones are easier to work with, but you end up with more seams, which then have to be sealed. GKL thickness:

• 12.5 mm — universal material for walls and ceilings;
• 6 mm and 9 mm - for curved surfaces.

It is often said that 9 mm sheets are for ceilings. But manufacturers have no such recommendations. Any of the manufacturing plants positions thin sheets, like those used for finishing curved surfaces.

Bevels are made along the long edges of the sheet. They are needed so that the joint can be glued with reinforcing tape and sealed with putty. It is the side where there is a bevel that is the front side. It is turned inside the room.

How to dock

If it is necessary to join sheets in height, position the joints so that you do not end up with a long longitudinal line. They say that the sheets are laid staggered or offset. In this case, it is desirable that the displacement be at least 40-60 cm. Long joints are the most likely places for cracks to appear. By moving the seam, you are almost 100% likely to get rid of cracks (see the figure for an example of laying sheets).

If the wall is sheathed with two layers of plasterboard, then the vertical seams also move. The sheet on top must be installed so that the joint of the bottom one falls in its middle (shift by half the width - 60 cm).

How to attach and in what steps

When installing, the sheet is pressed against the frame and secured using a screwdriver and special self-tapping screws with flat heads. If the frame is made of metal, use TN25 screws (3.5x25 mm). In stores they are called “for drywall.” Length - 25 mm, color - black (more often broken) or white. For a wooden frame, select ones that are close in size with the flattest head: there will be less putty.

During installation, it is important to tighten the fasteners to the required depth: the cap should be recessed into the sheet, but the cardboard should not tear. It is also necessary that the self-tapping screw be installed strictly perpendicular to the plane of the sheet: this way there is less chance of damaging the cardboard layer, which in this design is responsible for rigidity.

To see how you can simplify the work and make sure that the screw goes to the required depth, watch the video.

When assembling the frame on a solid wall, the distance between the posts must be at least 60 cm. Then it turns out that each sheet is attached to three vertical profiles: two at the edges and one in the middle. In this case, the edge of the sheet falls in the middle of the profile.

Stepping back 10-12 mm from the edge, screw in the screws. They can be placed, as in the figure above, one opposite the other, or they can be offset, as in the figure below. The installation step is 250-300 mm. Fastened along the perimeter and along the middle profile.

Another important point: when cutting out sheets, keep in mind that its height should be 10-12 mm shorter than the height from floor to ceiling. This is necessary in case of shrinkage: so that the wall or partition has the opportunity to compensate for changes in height without cracks (especially important for wooden and panel houses).

These are, perhaps, all the main points of working with drywall (without taking into account the specifics of installing profiles).

Plasterboard partition

Installing a partition is somewhat more difficult, so we will describe the process step by step with a photo.

Marking

First, mark the installation location of the partition. The easiest way to do this is with a laser plane builder (laser level). This straight line is applied to the walls, floor and ceiling.

If laser level no, you will have to use ordinary construction material ( good quality) and plumb line. First, mark a line on the floor - this is the easiest. Then, using a level, transfer it to the walls. If both lines on the walls are vertical, the straight line connecting them should be strictly above the line on the floor. Whether this is true or not can be checked using a plumb line, lowering it from a mark on the ceiling to the floor line.

Marking a partition using a level and plumb line

It is necessary to achieve a perfect match - the quality of all work depends on this.

Frame assembly

We will consider assembling a frame from galvanized profiles. Guide profiles are installed along the intended line on the floor and ceiling. It is marked UW or PN - load-bearing profile. They are most often fastened with dowels - 6*40 mm or 6*60 mm, the distance between two dowels is 30-40 cm.

The PN profile has a standard depth (wall height) of 40 mm, but can be of different widths: 50 mm, 75 mm or 100 mm. The thickness of the partition depends on the width of the supporting profile, as well as the thickness of the insulation and/or soundproofing material you can put it there.

Supporting racks are inserted into the guide profiles. They are marked CW or PS - rack profile. It differs from the guide in the presence of additional shelves on the walls. These shelves make it more rigid, increasing its load-bearing capacity. The width of the rack profiles depends on the width of the supporting ones: they must be the same. That is, the racks must be the same width. It is between them that the insulation is then installed.

The posts are attached to the guides in two ways. The first is used mainly by professional builders. They work as a cutter - special tool, which breaks through and bends the metal to the sides, fastening two parts. Amateur builders independent work with drywall, attached to “fleas” (also called bugs and seeds) - small self-tapping screws with a screw at the bottom - TEX 9.5 (3.5 * 9.5 mm). They drill through the metal themselves, speeding up the assembly process (no need to drill holes). The racks are secured on each side with at least two self-tapping screws.

One point: if you are installing a partition in a high-rise building or on the ground floor of your house, then place a special film or some kind of material at the junction of the rack and the ceiling guide that will prevent squeaking. When people walk, vibrations occur and are transmitted to the profiles, causing them to rub and create a creaking sound. The second option is to make the racks 1 cm shorter. It is more correct: the shrinkage of the house is provided for and there are no unpleasant sounds.

The installation pitch of the racks is 60 cm or less. This distance is determined by the width of the gypsum board (plasterboard), which is standardly 120 cm. As mentioned earlier, it turns out that each sheet is attached to three racks. So it turns out that there should be 60 cm between the verticals.

If the gap between two posts is more than 60 cm, but less than 120 cm, a vertical profile is still placed between them in the middle, otherwise this section will “bounce” - the sheet will wobble and sag. One more point: the first rack is attached to the wall a little closer - the first sheet will be attached to the entire plane of the outer profile, therefore the distance should be a little less - 57.5 cm.

It is advisable to strengthen the profiles to which doors or windows will be attached. The easiest way to do this is with a wooden block of a suitable size. It is inserted inside and secured with a pair of screws. You need to use dry wood so that the timber does not twist.

After all the racks are exposed and secured, the structures are given greater rigidity using jumpers - horizontally installed pieces of rack profiles. They are made in one of three ways suggested in the photo. The third option is the easiest to manufacture and easy to install.

The jumpers are usually placed at the height where the two sheets will be joined. Their edges must be fixed, so jumpers are necessary there. For the rest - in increments of 60-80 cm. If the wall is large - place it every 60 cm; if it is small, 80 cm is enough. Crossbars above the doorway are required: at the same height door frame. It is also advisable to strengthen them by placing them inside wooden block.

Laying communications

After installing all the crossbars, you can begin laying communications and electrical wiring. Preferably everything electrical wires install in a corrugated sleeve. If you place the partition in wooden house or on wooden frame, it must be metal. In houses made of non-combustible materials, in walls made of plasterboard on a frame made of galvanized steel, it is allowed to use plastic corrugated hoses made of non-combustible raw materials (marked “NG”).

Sheathing with plasterboard and heat/sound insulation

After laying communications, the installation of plasterboard sheets begins. They are installed in the same way as for sheathing. Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall covering begins on one side. Then, on the other side, insulation and/or sound insulation is installed between the profiles (bars) of the frame. After its installation, the gypsum board wall is sewn up on the other side.

The usual insulation for walls and partitions made of plasterboard is used:

In principle, it is possible to use other insulation materials, but the ones listed are the most popular.

How to cut drywall

When making walls from plasterboard with your own hands, you will have to cut the sheets: they are not always complete. To do this, you will only need a sharp stationery knife (for paper), a long, even object - a ruler, board, beam, level, rule, etc. And a wooden block a couple of meters long, but it’s not necessary, it’s just easier. That's it. A jigsaw may be needed when cutting curved lines, but there will be a lot of dust.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

• draw a line with a pencil on the front side along which you need to cut the drywall;
• apply a ruler (block, board) along the line and cut the cardboard with a stationery knife;
• We place a block under the cut line;
• on the shorter side we tap with the palm of our hand, which causes the plaster to break along the cut line;
• we break the sheet along the entire length of the cut;
• bend the broken piece and cut the remaining cardboard intact.

It's really very simple. The main task: to mark correctly. There are no further problems (unless the sheet is broken).

Video lessons

Not all subtleties can be described; some are better seen. We have selected videos that show the specifics of working with drywall. They mainly concern the assembly of a frame from profiles. This is really the most time consuming part. And how smooth the wall or partition will be depends on how correctly the frame is made.

How to make a false wall from plasterboard

How to make reinforced racks in a partition. This frame assembly method is non-standard, but that doesn't mean it's wrong. The racks are actually more rigid. This is necessary if you are building a full-fledged interior partition from plasterboard. Strengthening won't hurt here. The disadvantages are that it will take more time, and the cost of such a frame is higher.

Which profile is better: smooth or grooved? On the market there is different models profiles, including those with uneven rather than rough walls and sides. With the same thickness of metal, it is more rigid, which seems to be good. But how good is he at his job? Watch the video.

Drywall partition from start to finish. Here we film the installation of the partition step by step. Everything is quite accessible; you can take it as a basis and build walls from plasterboard with your own hands.

Drywall is often the only available material, with which you can remodel the premises. And it’s often possible to give walls a divine look only with the help of gypsum boards. The good thing about a plasterboard wall is that you can do it yourself, without hiring a team of professionals for such work. A maximum of one assistant may be needed.

You can save a lot if you purchase screws 25 mm long rather than 35 mm. According to the rules, the self-tapping screw after screwing should look out reverse side by 1 cm, so many try to take 35 mm ones with a reserve, but this is not always justified. If the sheet thickness is 12.5 mm, then adding another 10 mm, by which the screw should protrude, we get 22.5 mm. The thickness of the profile is insignificant, so it can be ignored in the calculations.

The minimum thickness of a plasterboard wall is 4 centimeters. It is necessary to add the width of the guides (27 mm) to the thickness of the drywall (12.5 mm). If we are talking about a partition in a room, then you need to add another thickness of plasterboard, which covers the wall on both sides. The result will be 52 mm. When creating a frame near the wall, it is customary to retreat from it about 5 cm, so that it is convenient to work with the profiles. Otherwise, it will be difficult to even drill holes.

Plasterboard partition - inexpensive and convenient way change the layout of the apartment. This material allows you to independently change the internal structure of the apartment, create your own custom design and delimit the premises into clear zones. In new apartments, as a rule, the number of partitions is kept to a minimum so that the owner can use plasterboard to zone the room to his liking.

Advantages of plasterboard partitions

Drywall - relatively new material, it first went on sale about 15 years ago. At the same time, in the construction of interior partitions, it very quickly replaced traditional brick and foam block. This is due to the following advantages:

• Flexibility and the ability to cut any shape, which opens up new design possibilities.
• Easy to install - drywall is installed with a minimum amount of tools and effort.
• The ability to regulate humidity in the apartment.
• Moisture-resistant types of drywall are suitable for bathroom partitions.
• The low weight of the material does not put any load on the supporting structures.
• Environmental friendliness and safety of the material.
• Low cost of drywall compared to brick and foam block.

Modern drywall practically does not burn, which makes it good choice to ensure fire safety.

Preparation

How to make a plasterboard partition with your own hands, step-by-step instructions for installing it - we will tell you further. If you follow this, you can easily and without problems build a partition from plasterboard with your own hands. The work is divided into the following stages:

1. Marking.
2. Installation of the frame.
3. Installation of drywall.
4. Laying insulating materials.

The first stage is marking. It is not particularly difficult, you just need to take measurements of the room, transfer them to paper and calculate required quantity building materials. Having carried out such calculations, you need to purchase the following materials:

• Drywall thickness from 6 to 12.5 mm. Its thickness varies depending on the expected load on the walls.
• Metal profile. Its width ranges from 50 to 100 mm, the choice depends on the load on the wall.
• Vertical posts for the frame.
• Self-tapping screws. Their choice depends on the material used for the walls of the building. To screw them in you need a screwdriver.
• Plumb for measurements.
• Insulation materials - mineral wool or expanded polystyrene.
• To install a partition in a concrete building you will need a hammer drill.

Video: DIY plasterboard partitions

After purchasing all necessary tools and materials, you can begin installing the partition.

Frame

The basis of the future partition is the frame, and the strength and aesthetics of the structure depend on the correct installation. Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for a do-it-yourself plasterboard partition frame are very important, since this stage is the most difficult.

So, its installation looks like this:

1. A line is drawn along the ceiling, exactly perpendicular to the opposite walls. Control points are lowered to the floor using a plumb line and a similar line is drawn along them.
2. Using a screwdriver, profiles are installed on the floor, ceiling and walls. They need to be secured especially carefully, since they bear the main load.
3. Vertical supports are attached to the profiles, at the rate of three pieces per sheet of drywall. In this case, the joints of adjacent sheets will be on the same support, and there should also be a stand in the center of each sheet.

To ensure sound insulation, you can lay a self-adhesive seal between the profiles and the wall, and only then screw them in with self-tapping screws. If heavy furniture will be hung on the wall, the step between the vertical supports should be no more than 40 cm.

Drywall installation

Installing drywall is not difficult. Its sheets are installed in a vertical position, and the horizontal joints of adjacent sheets should not be located in a row. Fastening is carried out as follows:

• The self-tapping screw should be located no closer than 5 cm from the corners of the drywall, and 1.5 cm from its edges.
• The heads of the screws need to be recessed into the drywall as much as possible so that they do not subsequently stick out.

To cut drywall, a simple stationery knife is suitable, which must be used in combination with the rule. The knife does not need to go too deep into the sheet; a 2 mm cut is enough, after which it will break on its own.

Insulation

Do-it-yourself insulation of a plasterboard partition is also done using step by step instructions. She insulates the partition and prevents noise penetration. The most environmentally friendly and fireproof option is mineral wool, but polystyrene foam can also be used. The insulation should be installed after the drywall has been installed on one side of the wall. As a rule, the material comes in the form of slabs and does not need to be particularly secured. After installing the insulation, you should complete the sheathing with plasterboard. After this you can start decorative design partitions.

Hello, hello, our brave drywallers. Today you will find a cool tutorial on the topic of plasterboard partitions. To be specific, we will disassemble a single-layer partition on a single frame - C 111 according to the Knauf classification, because Such partitions are the most widespread. Let's deal with general principles their installation, how to form a doorway, an external corner and connecting several partitions to each other. As an example, we will take a corner partition with a doorway, this is usually used to enclose pantries and dressing rooms (essentially nurseries for moths) to store pickles/jams and all sorts of junk that is long overdue for disposal.

Please note that work with drywall can only be carried out after the plaster and screed in the apartment have completely dried.

First, let's get acquainted with the special profiles used to form the frame of the partitions. These profiles are called rack profiles. To be more precise, there are rack-mount PS (CW), and there are also special wide guides PN (UW) for them. Dimensions of guide profiles: 40×50, 75, 100 mm. In our example, profiles with a width of 100 mm will be used. The letters C and U in their bourgeois name indicate the shape of their section. As you can see in the picture, the guide has straight shelves, like the horns of the letter U, and the rack has curved shelves, like the C. By the way, the side edges of the profiles are called shelves, and the rear walls are called walls. The second letter of the overseas name means that the profiles are rack-mount, i.e. wall from the German “Wand”.

Knauf rack and guide profiles

They are in a conjugate version

Once again we repeat that you can only use a profile with a metal thickness of 0.55-0.6 mm, for example, Knauf. They are good not only because of their rigidity, but also because their design allows them to be inserted into each other, thereby lengthening and strengthening them on the sides of the doorway. Profiles from other manufacturers may not have this option. The walls of the PN already have ready-made holes with a diameter of 8 mm for dowels.

Dimensions of rack profiles: 50×50, 75, 100 mm. For single-layer partitions, the 50th racks are rather weak, so we advise all of you to take the 75th or 100th. The walls of the Knauf rack profiles have 3 pairs of closely spaced holes with a diameter of 33 mm for laying wires.

1. Guide profiles KNAUF PN 100×40 mm
2. Rack profiles KNAUF PS 100×50 mm
3. Sealing tape Dichtungsband
4. Separator tape
5. “Dowel-nails” (another name for “Quick installation”) 6×40 mm
6. Cord release device
7. Laser level or bubble level
8. Aluminum rule 2.5 m
9. Gyproc plasterboard sheets 3000x1200x12.5
10. Seam putty (we work with Danogips Superfinish)
11. Reinforcing tape for seams KNAUF Kurt
12. Roulette
13. Hammer
14. Stationery knife (or special knife for cutting HA)
15. Hammer + drill
16. Screwdriver and cutter
17. Metal screws 3.5×25-35 mm (black, frequent pitch)
18. Self-tapping screws with press washer 4.2x13mm or shorter
19. Metal scissors or grinder
20. Mineral wool ISOVER, KNAUF Insulation, URSA, Rockwool, Schumanet, etc.
21. Narrow and wide spatulas

On the next slide on the left there is a self-tapping screw with a press washer; it is used to fasten the profiles together. There is an option with and without a drill. They are designated LB and LN, respectively. On the slide is the LN option. In our case, they are needed only if there is no cutter. On the right is a self-tapping screw for drywall. More precisely, it is still made of metal, but it is used for attaching GK sheets to profiles. Therefore, most often it is called that - a self-tapping screw for drywall. Has a secret, so-called carob, head. Designated as TN. There is also a TB, with a drill at the end, but you can do just fine without it, 0.6 mm TN steel can be easily taken.

Self-tapping screws for installation of gypsum plasterboard structures

Instructions for installing a plasterboard partition with your own hands.

Step 1. Marking

For example, let our partition be a continuation of an existing wall. It is highly advisable to pre-align it with the beacons. We draw a line as a continuation of the wall on the ceiling, making a right angle using a simple square. This line is the internal boundary of our future partition, taking into account its final dimensions. But first we need to mount the frame, and the dimensions for it are different. It is not necessary to draw your own lines for the frame; you can make everything simpler. How? You'll find out very soon...

Marking lines on the ceiling

For now, we transfer the lines from the ceiling to the floor using a plumb line and a cord breaker, or a laser level.

Transferring markings to the floor

And now here in front of you is the very simplified method of marking PN.

Marking holes for fasteners

The bottom line is that pieces of drywall are sewn onto the guide profiles, cut to size, and then placed along the lines. With this approach, the risk of error will be minimal. We mean that later, when the sheets of civil code are sewn on, the rule will not “jump” at the wall/partition boundary. Pieces of plasterboard should be sewn flush with the walls of the PN. We align the profile with these pieces along the line and put marks with a pencil or marker where we will have holes for attaching the PN to the base.

From a different angle

Step 2. Attaching the PN

Then, according to our marks, holes are drilled in the base, and sealing tape is necessarily glued to the profiles. Its absence can completely ruin the entire sound insulation of the future partition. With it, the connection to the base will be very tight, which also affects the crack resistance of the structure. The fastening itself is carried out with dowel nails using an ordinary hammer. Fast and strong.

Fastening the profile to dowel-nails

Floor guides

Near the opening

On the ceiling

We do not unscrew the pieces of plasterboard from the profiles until we secure the PN at all the necessary points. There are often situations when the holes available in the PN are not enough. In these cases, they should be drilled independently, and this can be done in one step - through the profile into the base. The main thing is to carefully ensure that the boundaries of the gypsum board pieces clearly coincide with the marking lines. After securing the guides on the sides of the doorway, I advise you to check them with the rules and make sure that they lie strictly on the same line.

It is necessary to make at least three attachment points per profile. Even if it is 30 cm long. Usually the pitch of the fastenings is made around 50 cm. If the floor is uneven, the pitch is reduced. Sometimes you even have to divide the PN into several segments. We do the same thing on the ceiling. Then we unscrew the pieces of plasterboard, but do not throw them away, they will be useful to us later...

Step 3. Fastening wall substations

Attaching racks to walls

We cut the rack profiles to the height, insert them into the guides close to the walls and drill holes in the walls directly through them. Try to maintain a step of about 50 cm, no more. We hammer the dowel nails into these holes again. Don't forget to seal the profile walls with sealing tape! And control them with rules, they should not bend. By the way, the height of the PS should be less than the height of the ceilings in the room by at least 1 centimeter. They should not support the ceiling.

The length of the racks is 1 cm less than the height of the ceiling

As you can see, there is some distance between the rack profile and the floor.

Step 4: Installing the Frame Posts

The rack profiles of the frame are installed in increments of 60 cm. If tiles are laid on the partition, then in increments of 40 cm. The profiles of the doorway are extraordinary, and they do not affect the spacing of the remaining substations. The slide shows profiles placed at 60 and 80 cm from the wall. The near PS just forms the doorway.

Partition frame posts

To reliably form an opening, the side PSs are made double, that is, one PS is inserted into the other. Of course, this is done in such a way that the holes in the walls of these profiles match in height. Inserting the PS into each other is not an easy task; sometimes you have to walk on them with your feet so that they snap into place along the entire length. It turns out that on the slide you see 3 profiles, but in fact there are 4 of them.

PSs are placed in one direction - with the wall facing the corner from which the plasterboard covering will begin. Weight Limit door leaf, which can withstand a pair of PS-100 - 40 kg. Rack profiles are installed strictly vertically. Their length should be 1 cm less than the height of the ceilings. And the holes in all profiles must be at the same height. Profiles can be secured to the guides using a cutter or self-tapping screws with a press washer (temporarily). Before installing the gypsum board stripe, all self-tapping screws must be unscrewed.

Stands in place

Yes, PSs are installed in one direction, because fastening the sheets should begin from that part of the profile flange that is closer to its wall. If you do the opposite, the screws will jam the profile flange, and it may bend. On the slide you see an almost finished partition frame. Let's take a look at how an outer corner is formed correctly...

Forming an external corner

Frame from another angle

One of the rack profiles is turned with its wall outward, and the second one faces us with a shelf. Between them there is a distance equal to the thickness of the plasterboard; we laid it at the stage of attaching the PN. Thus, the Civil Code sheet with inside the partition will be wound, as it were, into its depths. At the end of the article, the outer corner of the fully finished partition will be shown in section.

Step 5. Jumper

Jumper from PN

All that remains for us is to make a lintel for the doorway. It is made from a guide profile by cutting its shelves obliquely and bending part of its length by 5-7 cm. The slide clearly shows how it will look. That is, you will need to cut a piece of PN 10-14 cm longer than the width of the opening. Cut and bend it symmetrically. On each side, the jumper is attached to the side posts using 2-3 LN self-tapping screws.

Installing a jumper in the frame

Now our frame is completely finished. Electrical cables can be passed through the frame. But you should not place them inside the profiles, as they can be pierced with TN screws when covering the gypsum board.

Step 6. Sheathing gypsum boards

Covering the frame with plasterboard

BEFORE jumpers

There are several rules here.

• We have already mentioned the first - you cannot join sheets on the side profiles of the opening.
• Secondly, cross-shaped joints of the “+” type are unacceptable, only of the “t” type.
• Third - the joints of sheets with the inner and with outside should be shifted horizontally by a profile step, and vertically by at least 40 cm. On the slide you can see the very pieces of drywall that we used for marking. Now they serve us as supports. After all, HA sheets cannot be placed directly on the floor; they must be raised above it by about 1 cm.
• And they shouldn’t reach the ceiling either, about half a centimeter. This is the fourth rule.

To secure the drywall to the double studs of the opening, you can use small metal drill bits. Otherwise, very often the screws simply jam the inside of the profile. First, drill holes through the gypsum board, then screw screws into them. Of course, the sheets can only be joined horizontally on profiles, which means that we must make PS jumpers at the joints. See what they look like on the next slide.

PS jumpers

These are sections of ordinary rack profiles. Again, you need to start attaching them from the side of the shelf that is closer to the wall. When installing jumpers, it is advisable to have an assistant who will hold the sections of profiles while you twist the screws in them. Once all the jumpers have been placed, you can lay sound insulation slabs (mineral wool) between the profiles. Our favorite is ISOVER. When laying, we try not to leave unfilled areas. It should be cut with a margin of about 5 cm so that it rests against the profiles and thus stays in the frame. When working with mineral wool, be sure to use goggles, a respirator and gloves!

Sheathing process

Sheathing process 2

Finished cladding

The pitch of the screws is about 20-25 cm. On the jumpers, it is advisable to twist them more often, every 10-15 cm. Make sure that the heads of the screws are recessed into the sheet, but do not pierce the cardboard. If the cardboard is pierced, the screw should be twisted. What is also important is that the screws must enter at a strictly right angle. They must be spaced from the end edge of the sheet at a distance of at least 15 mm and longitudinal edge- not less than 10 mm. By the way, gypsum boards can only be mounted in a vertical position! If the room is planned suspended ceiling, under it in the partition it is advisable to mount mortgages from PS, into which we recommend additionally inserting timber of the appropriate size.

I also recommend screwing self-tapping screws into the jumpers on both sides of the partition, and not just on the joint side. It is advisable to guess the location of the sheets on outer corner so that they would lie on it with the factory edge. Then, when we install a protective corner on it, it will go deeper and the plane will not deteriorate. Of course, all progressive humanity has long been using a special corner-protective paper tape, Sheetrock, for example. But we know that in our country it’s hard to find one, so our Stone Age has dragged on, and we still use outdated metal corners. So, the partition is assembled.

And here are the promised pairings:

Right outside corner

Cross mate

T-joint

And here is a video from Knauf:

A couple of decades ago, all partitions and piers were built with their own hands from blocks or bricks. These materials were subsequently successfully replaced by drywall, which remains popular to this day. There are many reasons for this. The ability of drywall to take on any shape and the variety of profiles of its frame make it possible to turn the most daring ideas of designers into reality. Easy installation of a plasterboard partition with your own hands is accessible even to a beginner in the construction business.

Thanks to its porous structure, the material easily allows steam to pass through, regulating the level of humidity in the room. GKL impregnation special composition makes it possible to use drywall in damp environments such as bathrooms or kitchens. Drywall, which contains natural ingredients, is completely harmless to health.

The light weight of gypsum plasterboard partitions has little effect on the load-bearing capacity of the main elements of the building, which is very important when repairing old wooden buildings. And during construction modern buildings the use of gypsum plasterboard structures reduces the cost of concrete and reinforcement by up to 30%.

The thickness of the partitions during their installation and a reliable opening are determined by the profile width of 100.75 or 50 mm. Its choice depends on the purpose of the partition. Narrow profile can save money usable area, and wide - to withstand significant loads.

Material calculation

The design of the future partition is a metal frame covered with gypsum plasterboard, in which there is a doorway. The frame consists of guides and rack profiles. Guide profiles PN 50/40 are attached along the perimeter of the vertical contour of the room, and rack profiles PS are mounted inside the contour with a pitch of 600 mm; they also form the doorway. For cladding, 12.5mm wall plasterboard with sheet dimensions of 2500x1200mm is used.

In order to correctly calculate the amount of these materials, it is necessary to draw on paper a diagram of the future partition indicating the height, length or width of the room, the location and dimensions of the doorway, as well as the placement of rack profiles. In addition, the drawing of the frame should include cutting sheets of plasterboard, which should be arranged in a checkerboard pattern with the joints fastened to horizontal jumpers frame.

When making calculations, it is important to determine the future load on the partition from the weight of furniture or decorative items. The location and number of rack profiles, as well as additional jumpers required in places where accessories are attached or forming a doorway, depend on it.

Before making a partition from plasterboard, an approximate calculation of the amount of materials can be done using any of the numerous calculators posted on specialized websites construction companies. The doorway is not taken into account.

Frame installation

In order to build metal frame To make partitions with your own hands, you will need the following tools: a plumb line, a screwdriver, a tape measure, metal scissors, a hammer drill, a drill, a hammer, a painting cord, a building level and a marker. Interior partition made of plasterboard with a door is made in stages in the following order:

Covering the partition frame with plasterboard

After installing the frame, it needs to be sheathed plasterboard sheets. You should start working with your own hands from the wall by attaching solid sheets, observing the following rules:

• Self-tapping screws are screwed into the sheet at a distance of 10-15mm from its edge with a fastening pitch of 100-150mm.
• Adjacent sheets must have a joint on a common profile.
• The fastener caps should be recessed 0.5 mm into the gypsum board.
• With a single-layer frame sheathing, the length of the screws is taken to be at least 25mm, and with a two-layer sheathing - 40mm. An important indicator in this case, the fastener penetrates into the profile to a depth of at least 10 mm.

After covering the frame on one side, it is recommended to lay soundproofing material in it, which can be used as mineral wool in the form of plates or rolls. The insulator must be laid between the rack profiles, avoiding gaps.

After laying the insulation, you can sheathe the frame on the other side according to the rules described above. It is recommended to attach the sheets to the frame profiles with a vertical offset to properly distribute the loads that arise during the operation of the partition.

Partition finishing

Finishing of the finished plasterboard partition is carried out in the following order:

Instead of traditional door can be installed in the partition sliding door. In this case, the size of the opening will be smaller than the door leaf. Such an opening is equipped with a floor controller, a hanging rail and has an additional metal frame necessary to disguise the movement mechanism.

If necessary, plasterboard partition can be posted engineering communications: electrical wiring, pipes and others. Such work is planned in advance and carried out at the stage of creating the frame.

That's all science is. We hope you now know how to make a plasterboard partition and doorway with your own hands. A little patience and accuracy in your work - and everything will work out for you. Good luck everyone!