How to cover a riser with plastic panels. How to carefully close the pipes in the toilet? Instructions for covering pipes with plastic panels

A well-made and beautifully finished bathroom can be somewhat spoiled by an unsightly appearance open water and sewer pipes. Useful information on how to sew up pipes in a bathroom, toilet or kitchen plastic panels will help give these rooms a finished and beautiful view. And the convenience of working with plastic will allow you to carry out the necessary work in the future without large labor and material costs for dismantling the structure and restoring the design. renovation work on communication networks.

Preparing to cover pipes with plastic

Any construction and installation work must be preceded by preparatory work. The process of preparing to close pipes in the toilet and bathroom can be divided into several stages.

Pipeline inspection

To avoid repeated repairs, including dismantling the finished finishing of a bathroom or kitchen, the first step is to conduct a detailed inspection of the pipelines to ensure there are no leaks.

Pipes with defects must be replaced before they are sheathed with plastic.

In apartments where utility networks, especially sewer pipes made of cast iron, have a long service life, it is recommended, even if they are in apparently satisfactory condition, to be replaced with plastic pipes.

Selecting a communication masking option

At the second stage, you need to decide on the option of masking pipes for a specific room.

There are two such options:

Creating a false wall behind which all communications will be hidden.
The construction of one or more boxes that hide only pipes.

Options for closing toilet pipes with plastic

The first option is simpler to implement and allows the construction of one continuous wall to hide all the pipes.

The second is more technically complex, and depending on the location of the pipelines in the room, separate boxes for sewer and water pipes may be required. But this method is more preferable from the point of view of saving space in the bathroom or kitchen.

Preparing tools for work

To perform preparatory and basic work you need to prepare necessary materials and tool. These include:

jigsaw or hacksaw with metal files;
mounting knife;
tape measure, pencil or marker;
level and plumb;
hammer drill and screwdriver;
fasteners (self-tapping screws, dowel-nails, euroscrews, clamps for PVC panels);
construction square;
antiseptic or protective impregnation for wooden structures;
galvanized metal profiles (types ud, cd);
starting profile for panels;
decorative ceiling molding;
floor plinth;
silicone sealant.

An approximate set of tools for installing PVC panels

And of course, it is necessary to prepare the panels themselves, the choice of which is made based on the preferences of the owners, and taking into account general design bathroom or kitchen.

Drawing up a plan and marking

Having decided on the option for decorating the pipes, you need to draw up on paper a large-scale plan of the room with a sketch of the future structure.

The distance between the panels and pipes, primarily for hot water supply, must be at least 3 cm.

Important! When drawing up a sketch, it is necessary to design in the structure free access to valves, fittings and flow meters, by installing windows with doors or removable plugs.

Construction of a box with a window for inspection

Having made a plan, you need to:

calculate the required material;
apply markings on the walls, floor and ceiling.

To cover vertical pipes, drawing the outline of the box or wall must begin from the floor. Then, using a plumb line, project the markings onto the ceiling.

To install jumpers, beacons are marked on vertical guides in increments of 40-50 cm and strictly parallel markings are made along the perimeter of the wall or box.

Construction of a frame for covering pipes

Before you start covering the pipes in the toilet with plastic panels, you need to build a frame that serves as the basis for attaching the panels to it. The frame can be made from the following materials:

Wooden beam.
PVC profile for plastic panels;
Galvanized metal profile.

Advice! Using for the construction of hulls and sheathing wooden parts, it is necessary to impregnate them with protective antiseptic compounds.

The technology for performing work in the above options for masking pipes (false wall or duct) is similar. Most often in practice, to hide pipes in bathrooms and kitchens, a box is used, and the material used for this is a galvanized profile.

Considering this particular method, the construction of a frame for covering pipes in a bathroom, toilet or kitchen with plastic panels looks like this:

fastening the ud guide profile to the walls;
installation of external corner posts by connecting two ud profiles directed at right angles in different directions;
fastening load-bearing lintels from CD profiles to racks (with a frame height of more than 1 m and a width of less than 0.25 m).

The jumpers are inserted with one end into the guide profile, and the other into the edge of the outer corner, at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other.

The connection of structural elements is made using self-tapping screws or a cutter. The profile guides are attached to the walls with dowels or Euroscrews (confirmations).

Slitter for metal profile

The racks are fastened to the floor and ceiling by bending the profile or using hangers.

Installation of PVC panels

After the bases of the boxes are mounted, you can proceed to the direct fastening of the panels. The execution sequence is as follows:

fasten the starting molding to the ud profile (against the wall) with flea screws;
install ceiling molding on the ceiling if ceiling plinth will not be used;
trim the panel to the right size hacksaw or mounting knife;
insert panel narrow shelf to the start profile;
fasten the panel through the wide shelf to the transverse profiles;
subsequent panels are mounted in the same way.

The panels are fastened using clamps, staples or self-tapping screws.

Type of clamp clips for fastening PVC panels

As a rule, when installing the final lamella, it becomes necessary to trim it to width. To do this, the panel is turned over, applied to the wall and narrowed along the edge installed panel the cutting line is outlined. It is easy to cut off the excess width of the panel with a hacksaw or jigsaw.

To give the structure hiding the pipe a monolithic appearance, it is necessary to install on all corner connections plastic moldings (external or universal corner).

A set of plastic profiles that can be used for finishing pipes with panels

After the pipes in the bathroom, toilet or kitchen are hidden under plastic panels, their junctions with the floor and ceiling are decorated with baseboard moldings. All that remains is to clean up after the work and feel satisfaction looking at the results of your work.

The problem of masking pipes in a bathroom room faces those homeowners who are trying to give an aesthetic appearance to absolutely all rooms of a house or apartment. It can be noted that there are, of course, exceptions: open pipes can fit perfectly into one industrial designer styles- "loft". However, there are still not many of its adherents. The overwhelming majority are those owners who prefer a cozy, warm environment even in such specific purpose and small-area small spaces like a toilet.

Therefore, the question of how to hide the pipes in the toilet always remains relevant for them. Moreover, new decoration options are appearing, developed by manufacturers of various accessories for bathrooms, as well as invented by home craftsmen.

General information about pipe masking structures

What are the options for piping in the toilet?

Not only the owners of luxury houses or apartments, but also the owners of ordinary budget housing try to hide the pipes in the toilet. Much in the choice of masking plumbing depends on the location of the pipes, as well as on the area of the bathroom.

The most difficult thing is to select and install a structure covering communications in the toilet of an apartment with a standard layout and footage of multi-storey buildings. This is due to the fact that pipes often run along two adjacent walls. In such cases, camouflage structures take on complex, difficult-to-execute forms, since literally every centimeter of free space in the room has to be saved.

If the toilet pipes are located along one wall, then closing them will be easiest. The rest of the space in the room will not be occupied by the masking structure and, therefore, will not lose its area.

If the pipes are located along adjacent walls, then in order to hide them, you will have to build two camouflage boxes, which will lead to a rather serious loss of area. Besides, different types communications can run vertically and horizontally, while also having branches to adjacent rooms. Unfortunately, the size of the toilet does not always allow for the construction of full-fledged camouflage structures for such difficult cases.

The manifold wiring option, if the main unit is located in the toilet, occupies a considerable part of the space of the room, if we consider the relatively small area. In addition, this design often hangs over the back of the toilet, which also makes it difficult to cover it with enclosing materials. When thinking about masking the collector assembly, it is also necessary to take into account providing access to meters, water meters, in which cartridges need to be periodically changed, and control valves. So the task is also not an easy one.

Main types of camouflage structures

Today, there are several types of designs that are most often used to disguise communication nodes in bathrooms or toilets. From these, you can choose the option that best suits the location of the pipes. To figure out which one to give preference to, it is necessary to consider not only how they will look in their finished form, but also the features of their installation process.

Building a frame made of galvanized metal profiles or wooden beams around the communications, which is later sheathed with plasterboard sheets or plastic panels. Here it is necessary to clarify that metal profiles are better suited, and for the installation of plastic panels - wooden frame, although this is not a rule at all - just a recommendation. Having chosen this camouflage option, it is necessary to provide the possibility of access to significant distribution nodes (taps, filters, water meters, etc.)

A built-in plumbing cabinet is a box with doors, which is mounted into a frame constructed from a metal profile or wooden beam. Doors can have different heights and widths equal to the width of the room. Glass, wooden and plastic versions of such cabinets are produced.

Horizontal blinds or roller shutters. This option for masking pipes is convenient to use in that communications can always be fully accessible in case of an emergency.

A built-in wardrobe is not only a disguise, but also a lot of space for storing household items.

If the length of the room allows, then you can close the pipes in the toilet by building a functional cabinet in which there is space to store many different useful items. Access to the pipes will be provided by opening the upper and lower doors.

If the walls of the toilet are made of gypsum-based slabs, which is not uncommon in multi-storey buildings, channels can be drilled into them for embedding pipes. However, this option will do only for small diameter pipes, and for sewer riser you will still have to choose another method of disguise.

If for some reason it is not possible to install one of the above structures at all, then you can use the idea of externally decorating the pipe with various decorative elements or painting.

Types of plumbing hatches

When closing water supply and sewer lines, it is always necessary to provide access to them - for conducting an audit, for taking readings of water meters, for performing repair and restoration work in the event of an accident. Therefore, you should think in advance which door or hatch would be better suited for a specific design.

On the market modern market building materials Manufacturers present many similar options:

Hatches ready for installation. They can be made of durable frosted artificial glass, plastic or metal. This type of product does not need cladding - the main thing is to choose it correct sizes and design suitable for the selected wall cladding. Therefore, it is advisable to purchase optimal model before the construction of the enclosing structure begins.

Invisible hatches, consisting of a metal frame on which a plate (usually made of gypsum fiber composite) is fixed. This type of product is intended for subsequent cladding with the same material as the remaining surfaces of the walls of the toilet or bathroom. Thanks to this approach, the door becomes almost completely invisible.

Invisibility hatches can have different designs according to the type of opening - they are sliding, folding and hinged. The options are shown in the illustrations. In addition, there are invisible hatches that are simply held in place by magnets and, if necessary, are completely removable.

Which design to choose depends on the specific location of the hatch. That is, its discovery should not present difficulties, but in open form it must provide the necessary “degree of freedom” to perform certain operations on hidden communications.

Hatches consisting of aluminum frame and plasterboard sheathing. These doors are usually not intended for tiling - they remain lightweight, so they are either painted suitable color, or pasted over with wallpaper.

Installation of pipe masking structures

This section will look at several possible options closing pipes.

For installation work it is necessary to prepare tools and, of course, all the necessary materials. And if different materials may be required, then the list of tools for building the frame and its cladding, as a rule, does not undergo any special changes.

So, in order to mask communications in the toilet, you should prepare:

- Screwdriver and electric drill(if the walls are made of dense material that requires a special approach to making holes);

— Metal scissors for working with metal profiles and a hacksaw for wood when choosing for sheathing timber;

— Construction square, level, tape measure and pencil for marking;

— Construction level – bubble or laser;

— A set of ordinary plumbing tools - hammer, screwdrivers, pliers, etc.

Tools for subsequent finishing may also be required - it depends on what type decorative covering a camouflage structure will be used.

Masking box-shaped structure made of plasterboard

The most difficult to implement design option for a camouflage box is when the pipes are located along two walls, and in the corner between them there is a central communal sewer line. It is this kind of installation that will be discussed further.

Materials for work will require moisture resistant plasterboard sheets, galvanized metal profiles, metal screws, dowels for attaching the frame to the wall, as well as ceramic tiles for subsequent cladding of the structure. In order not to buy unnecessary material, it is recommended to make all calculations in advance, taking dimensions from the installation site, and draw them up to scale approximate diagram location of boxes. At the same time, we must not forget about providing access - in the example under consideration to .

Calculations of the amount of materials are made individually for each specific case.

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	Before you begin calculating and marking the walls for installation of the box frame, it is necessary to inspect all pipelines. If you plan to cover the entire collector with permanent panels, as in this case, then it is recommended to replace the old pipes with polypropylene pipes connected by welding. All connections between pipes must be as reliable as possible. You shouldn't even mess with the box if it's old steel pipes have traces of corrosion and generally do not inspire confidence in their durability.
	If the pipes are in order, then the first step is to mark the walls, floor and ceiling. It is necessary to mark the contours of the finished location of the enclosing structure. The accuracy of the design will depend on how correctly the vertical and horizontal lines of its lines are aligned. Constructions can be made using conventional or laser level. The second option will give more accurate markings and significantly reduce the time for this stage.
	When creating a frame consisting of three sections, first the frame of the central part enclosing vertical pipe general sewerage. The metal profile is attached to the walls along the lines marked on them, then using a drill, holes are drilled in the profile and the wall into which a dowel-nail is driven (or a dowel-cork followed by screwing in self-tapping screws). Fastening to the wall is carried out in increments of 350÷400 mm. When the two guides are attached to the wall, they must be connected to each other on the ceiling and floor with short parts that will determine the shape of the future vertical box. The sections are attached to the floor and ceiling, as well as to already installed metal guides.
	Next, an external guide is installed, forming the corner of the box. It is recommended to assemble it from two profiles, which will ensure the rigidity of the structure. The outer profiles are first fastened to the corner part of the frame on the ceiling and then to the floor. After this, the external rack is connected to guides fixed to the walls and horizontal jumpers. The parts are fixed with metal self-tapping screws screwed in with a screwdriver.
	Now, using the same principle, boxes are mounted along the walls along the marking lines. First of all, the profile is attached to the rear wall of the room and to the floor. Then, two side vertical sections of the profile are mounted, they are installed inside the guide fixed to the floor. One of them is fixed to the wall, the other to a vertical frame erected around the sewer riser. Now the middle posts are installed, which will frame the sewer pipe pipe intended for connecting the toilet.
	All racks are mounted in the floor profile and attached to it with two self-tapping screws. Next, all racks are connected by horizontal jumpers.
	The next step is to build a frame along the second wall using the same principle. It is usually made taller, since its surface perfectly serves as a shelf. The illustration shows a metal frame ready for sheathing. If the area of the room allows, then it is recommended to adjust the width of the frame surfaces to the size of the tiles. This will simplify the installation of the cladding and make it more neat.
	In the place where you plan to install a small door or a plumbing hatch, it is necessary to build a frame into the frame according to its size - the so-called mortgages. Instead of metal structure, can be used plywood sheet, in which a hole is cut for the hatch. Plywood is fixed to metal elements from the inside of the structure using “liquid nails” glue. The plywood is further strengthened when fixed to the drywall frame.
	In order to muffle the noise of flows passing through the sewer main, the riser is often soundproofed using mineral wool. It fills the entire space inside the vertical frame, as well as around the pipe leading to the toilet.
	Next, dimensions are taken from each surface of the frame, according to which parts are cut out from plasterboard. They will be used to cover the metal frame. The fastening of plasterboard panels is done with metal self-tapping screws, the heads of which must be slightly recessed into the surface of the plasterboard.
	The next step is to line the walls of the toilet and the box with ceramic tiles. For finishing tile joints on external and internal corners special decorative plastic corners are used.
	When installing drywall, a hole is left at the location where the hatch is installed. After tiling the box with tiles, a hatch is built into the hole.
	In this case, the hatch door has a hinged design. If necessary, the door can be completely dismantled.
	Another inspection door is installed in a box mounted on the back of the toilet.

The principle of performing work when using drywall and plastic panels is generally the same. However, there are also some nuances that you should also be aware of.

Wooden frame for plastic panels

The second most popular lining material for pipe camouflage structures is plastic panels. Moreover, they are used to cover the ducts and walls of the toilet, and they are also used to cover the frame of pipe fencing and in cases where tiles are laid on the walls or wallpaper is pasted.

When choosing plastic panels as cladding, it is recommended to use wooden beam cross section approximately 30x40 mm. As a rule, not only the frame, but also the walls are sheathed with plastic panels, so the frame is erected simultaneously with the sheathing on all surfaces.

The advantage of plastic panels over plasterboard is that they do not require additional cladding, therefore total cost finishing will be much lower. In addition, installation of panels takes much less time.

The first preparatory stage of work is carried out in the same way as when creating a plasterboard box, that is, an inspection is carried out and, if necessary, replacement of pipes.
Next, it is recommended to treat with an antiseptic that will prevent the formation of mold or mildew in the enclosed space formed between the wall and the plastic cladding. The solution is applied using a roller, brush, or spray gun.

Then, after drying, the location of the guides and frame parts of the masking box is marked.

A frame made of timber is erected in the same sequence as from a metal profile. It should be taken into account that the timber must be positioned horizontally at least 450÷500 mm - this step is required by the technology of cladding with plastic panels.

The sheathing and box beams are attached to the walls using dowels (dowel-nails or dowel-plugs), for which holes are drilled through the beam in the wall.

The installation process of the panels is quite simple. The main thing is to correctly, strictly vertically position the first element in the row plastic lining. It must be carefully calibrated to the building level. Then, when installing subsequent panels, they also need to be periodically checked for verticality - sometimes a rather significant error occurs.

The panels are fastened to the sheathing using wood screws with wide heads, or staples using a stapler. To join panels in the corners of the room, special corner plastic profiles are used for external and internal corners.

A plumbing hatch for installation in plastic cladding must be light in weight, which means that it must also be made of plastic.

Plumbing cabinet

As a rule, plumbing cabinets are located along the entire back wall of the room, behind the toilet. The doors can hide only communications, or functional shelves for storing hygiene or cleaning products can be placed behind one of them. The convenience of these designs is undeniable, since they always allow you to reach meters and filters, as well as monitor the serviceability of the entire wiring unit or collector.

You can make such a cabinet yourself or purchase it from finished form. For self-made you will need to make a frame of the required size, and the doors are the same as for a regular cabinet.

In order to make a frame, you can use a wooden beam or a metal frame welded from a corner or profile pipe. On metal version Frames are sometimes immediately fixed by welding with hinges for hanging the doors.

Cabinet doors can be made from various materials- wood, plastic panels, plywood, MDF or chipboard, metal or frosted glass.

Frames with doors are made according to the principle of shutters, so if you plan to make them from wood, you can order the structure from any experienced carpenter, providing him with all the necessary dimensions.

Plastic options Doors can be purchased ready-made or plastic panels can be mounted on a wooden frame.

In addition to swing door options, accordion doors are suitable for plumbing cabinets. They have more complex design, since when opening they move along guides installed on horizontal frame elements. By the way, shutters can also have an accordion design.

Instead of ordinary doors, roller shutters have recently begun to be increasingly installed in plumbing closets. This design is convenient in that it can be mounted to the entire height of the niche. This allows, if necessary, to have full access to all instruments and components of the collector. Probably, such roller shutters can be called the most convenient option to use. However, this device has one significant drawback for many - its high cost.

If roller shutters are installed only on top part walls, then the lower one will need to be closed plasterboard construction. But roller shutters that cover a niche from ceiling to floor free you from unnecessary work and costs.

Roller shutters are made of plastic, metal and wood. The most durable of them are metal or wooden structures- they are easy to clean from dust and do not lose their attractiveness for a long time. If desired, you can order roller shutters with a printed pattern that matches the design style of the room or color scheme design.

No matter what the roller shutters are made of, they transform the room and perfectly preserve the free space of a cramped bathroom.

Some homeowners decide to replace the roller shutters with horizontal blinds, since their cost is very low. But, you must admit, the service life is significantly lower than the capital structure of roller shutters

There are different ways placement of roller shutters in the niche opening. In addition, they are divided into two types according to the placement of the drum mechanism:

Overhead outdoor installation systems. In this case, the roller shutters are mounted on the wall. This option is optimal for installation in a toilet if the equipped niche has an opening smaller than the width of the wall.
Installation of roller shutters built into the opening is possible if the niche is deep and the pipes are located close to its rear wall.
The design, in which the box is located externally, can be installed either with outside niche, and completely “recessed” into it.
If the box is located inside the structure, then the roller shutters can be installed on the wall around the niche or flush with the wall of the niche.

Most often, the installation of roller shutters is entrusted to specialists who will complete the work carefully and quickly.

Hiding pipes in walls

It is more convenient to hide pipes in the wall in a combined bathroom, since small room Cleaning a toilet is quite difficult. But even the room is more spacious. than a standard toilet, sometimes it is difficult to embed all the pipes into the wall - some of them will still often remain open.

This method of freeing surfaces from unsightly communications has many disadvantages, which include the following:

Labor-intensive work, which is always accompanied by increased noise, an abundance of dirt and dust.
Inability to completely embed pipes that have large diameter. This means that you will have to use other methods of masking them, that is, do double work.
It is recommended to carry out hidden pipe routing on straight sections of the pipeline that do not have detachable connections.

In addition, when choosing this method of camouflage, you will have to adhere to certain regulatory rules, which you should familiarize yourself with in advance:

It is prohibited to cut fines in main, load-bearing walls.
Only pipes that have permanent connections, that is, welded to each other, are allowed to be embedded into walls. In other cases, connecting nodes must be accessible.
There should be no electrical communications in the area of the wall where stripping is planned.
The width of the groove must take into account the thermal expansion of the pipes, as some polypropylene products expand quite seriously in all directions.
Pipes are installed in special plastic clips- they will prevent sound transmission to the walls.
Instead of clips, some craftsmen use heat-insulating sleeves to dampen sounds, which are also excellent sound insulators.
When arranging hidden pipe routing, it is recommended to draw up an exact diagram of their exact location, which will be necessary during emergency or major repairs.

In order to lay grooves in the walls, they are first marked, outlining the width and route of passage. Then, using a grinder and/or a hammer drill, a groove (cut) of the required depth is cut into the surface, and pipes are hidden in it, which will subsequently be covered with finishing.

Decorating pipes

If for some reason there is no possibility or even simply no desire to build a box or install a plumbing cabinet, then there is always the option of covering the pipes with decorative materials. With this approach, each home owner uses his own imagination or borrows ideas from the Internet, which, after changing a few if necessary, can be passed off to guests as their own.

This option is easy to implement and does not require any special creative skills. It is enough to roll up a straight pipe from rattan wicker (mat) and secure it to the wall around the riser. Rattan has a certain rigidity, so it holds its given shape perfectly. In the example shown in the illustration, this camouflage of the pipe is in perfect harmony with the cork wallpaper that covers the walls of the toilet. By the way, cork wallpaper may also be suitable for wrapping or pasting a pipe. This material has excellent sound-absorbing abilities, so it will reduce the noise level from water falling through the pipe.

Another decoration option is to imitate tree bark on a pipe. You can simply mark it with a pattern or give it the texture of tree bark. It is not necessary to make a birch tree out of the pipeline - it can be any other tree. Artificial plants are used as thin branches and foliage, the range of which includes specialized stores- very big.

You can simply wrap twine or rope around the pipe, which will also give the riser a palm trunk-like appearance. If you attach wide leaves to the top of the pipes, they will not only bring freshness to the interior, but will also completely determine the type of wood that was planned to be imitated.

You can come up with your own options, especially since such decoration does not require any special expenses.

However, this decoration method is only suitable for single pipes. It cannot be used to hide the entire plumbing, and especially a collector with numerous connected pipes and installed adjustment and control devices.

* * * * * * *

The options presented above, as well as descriptions of the installation process of some of them, will hopefully help you decide on the appropriate way to hide pipes in the toilet, taking into account the specific area and the chosen design.

At the end of the article, watch the video, which shows the process of installing one-sided plumbing box in a cramped toilet.

Video: Construction of a plasterboard box in the toilet

Communications located in the bathroom do not decorate the room. No matter how much the pipes cost, they will not add attractiveness to the interior. The article describes effective ways to close the sewer in the toilet. Materials that are suitable for this are described. There is information about proven methods for making camouflage structures. It explains how to hide communications and sew up pipes without blocking access for maintenance.

How to close the pipes in the toilet

IN typical house The wiring is simple - there is a common riser in the corner of the toilet sewer system, water supply pipes run parallel. It is necessary to disguise both the common risers and the branches extending from them.

Difficulties arise when it is necessary to hide not only pipes, but also metering devices that require regular access.

An ordinary box will not help in this case; you have to make partitions or hide them with a screen.

It’s easier to do this in your home if you think about masking communications during the creation of the project. They lay pipes in the walls and install technical hatches for access to devices. You can place metering devices in a special room. In multi-storey buildings, it is not allowed to make deep grooves for sewer pipes, and the thickness of the walls will not allow this.

Only closing and external decor saves back wall. You can decorate with any finishing option. You can make a beautiful plumbing cabinet that can be assembled quickly according to the diagram and with which you can close the plumbing.

Solutions for how and with what to close the pipes

The choice depends on the direction and size of the pipes, their placement, installed devices

Interior features matter. The choice is up to the homeowner.

Plastic panels

Even an inexperienced craftsman can make such a design. Making a plastic box in a bathroom niche is inexpensive. But it can be used and sealed only if the walls are already finished with plastic or painted in the same color.

Making a screen from PVC plastic boxes:

Checking the quality of communications. You need to check the quality of the connections and the condition of the devices.
Surface treatment. Antiseptic compounds will prevent the appearance of traces of fungus and mold.
Manufacturing of sheathing. A frame is made of wooden blocks or a metal profile along the walls, where the pipes are hidden.
Cover and decorate with removable panels. It is important to fix each panel correctly; use a stapler or small nails for fastening. Gaps at corners and joints can be hidden with decorative trims.

There is no need to make a plastic hatch; it is better to buy a ready-made door. It will not be possible to hide it, so it is advisable to use a model that allows you to work comfortably.

When masking communications and metering devices, it is worth leaving access to them using a viewing window

Plasterboard construction

To make a frame from a profile, you need scissors for cutting metal; wood elements are made using a hacksaw. You will need a hammer drill to mount the parts on the wall.

The wood must be impregnated with protective agents in advance.

After this, several steps are performed:

Mark the surface of the walls near the sewer.
Prepare the frame parts.
Guides are attached along the riser.
The embedded elements are mounted into the profile.
Install the hatch.
Plywood is attached to the end of the box.
Sew up the end with plasterboard.
Sew up the front part.

For any subsequent finishing, the drywall is coated with a primer. Most often, it is used to decorate the room. Instead, you can paint the box or install plastic panels.

Plumbing cabinet

Convenient, mounted on the wall behind the toilet, allows easy access to all equipment. If there is enough space in the toilet, you can install shelves for storing household items. Doors are made from any suitable material taking into account the style of the interior.

Hinged doors They are fastened in the same way as any doors - they are suspended from the base on hinges.

You can use sliding products or an accordion door

But keep in mind that the accordion will not require additional space, and sliding doors will not fit in a typical toilet.

Blinds

This design is good because it saves free space. The regular ones are inexpensive and look good. They do not interfere at all, the plastic structure is easy to install. But they cannot be used in elegant interior. Metal blinds are stronger; do not use fabric ones, because textiles are not suitable for wet rooms.

Roller shutters

Thorough and robust design, but in an ordinary bathroom it does not suit the interior and space. They can only be installed if you have enough space. Take a closer look at automatic models, controlled using a remote control.

Installation of a false wall

The partition will serve to create original decoration, convenience, space division. Surfaces can be decorated with all sorts of patterns, and decorative lighting can be created with stickers. You just need to select the material suitable for this purpose.

Concealed installation - gating

You can hide it without installing decorative cladding - hide the wiring in cut grooves. Using a hammer drill, grooves are made in the places where the pipes go, and water supply and sewer branches are placed in them.

When installing hidden, you should try to run the pipeline in a straight line with permanent components and connections.

This installation method has 2 advantages - the almost complete absence of elements that spoil the appearance, and the saving of space.

There are several rules that do not allow gating:

Pipes are not laid in load-bearing walls.
Only pipes are placed in the grooves, without detachable connections (soldered), access to other types must be provided.
Do not make recesses in walls where electrical lines are laid.
It is necessary to take into account the expansion of the material and prepare grooves of suitable width.

Examples of successful solutions

To camouflage pipes in, take into account all factors - where communications can be installed, the availability of equipment, the size of the room.

It may be better to install a plasterboard box or make a false wall. It all depends on the conditions of your apartment.

Often pipes, meters, and plumbing boilers are damaged general view bathroom or toilet. You can decorate your bathroom using different methods. Clean up nicely technical unit you can do it yourself by choosing the right method.

A sewer riser, water heater or bathroom meter has nothing to do with the aesthetics of the room. That's why many people want it. You can do this, but it is important to know how to do it right.

Ways to disguise a riser in the bathroom:

Construction of a false wall;
Use of plastic panels;
Roller shutters;
Plasterboard or plastic box;
Utility cabinet.

A false wall is considered the most drastic way to cover the back with pipes. The material for the wall will be plywood or chipboard. Often the wall can be covered with plasterboard. Before work, you should prepare the pipes, remove rust and paint them. Galvanized profiles are used for the frame. They are attached to the floor and wall. The material is attached to the frame using self-tapping screws.

For a separate toilet, you can install a wooden frame instead of a galvanized one.

Plastic panels are often used for bathrooms. They have a number of advantages: resistance to humidity, strength, lightness, low cost. At the same time, installation of the material is simple and does not require additional painting. The panels have air chamber, that we make the material soundproofing.

More in a simple way the use of roller shutters is considered. They are installed and operated like regular blinds. At the same time, new developments provide options with sound insulation or heat conservation.

The box is made from a metal profile, which is covered with plastic. It can be removable, which is very convenient. The box has an inspection window. We hide the hatch under the tiles. This is a kind of window for accessing the pipes. Considered an excellent option utility cabinet. This way you can not only hide the pipes, but also have a place to store household chemicals.

Options: how to make a box for pipes in a toilet from plasterboard

The location of the pipes also determines the camouflage option. This way you can hide an entire wall or a place with communications. The first skin is considered more aesthetically pleasing. The box is mounted in two ways. The first involves the use of a frame. This gives strength to the skin. The second option is frameless.

Before work, you should make a plan of the room with the location of all the pipes. You will need to calculate the amount of material and prepare the necessary tools.

Best for use in the bathroom moisture resistant drywall. It is resistant to fungus, environmentally friendly, and guarantees sound insulation. The material can be used for both horizontal and vertical communications.

Creating a box from plasterboard:

You need to step back 2 cm from the meter and the pipe and draw vertical lines on both sides. Then the profile is fixed.
We attach plasterboard sheets.
The joints should be puttied and hidden with a decorative plinth. The surface should be painted over.

Other materials are also widely used for the box. So the lining is made of plastic. Expanded polystyrene has many advantages; it is considered to be an ideal option for the bathroom.

How to properly cover pipes in a toilet with plastic panels

First you need to prepare the frame. First, measurements are taken. It should be borne in mind that in addition to the sewerage system, the toilet also contains water pipes. All manipulations with measurements are performed using a tape measure. On the created plan, all fastenings and main cladding elements should be indicated.

Before masking the pipes, you should check their condition. If necessary, communications are replaced.

The frame is then attached to the surfaces. Screw to the bottom and top wooden slats or profile. Then they are mounted every 30-40 cm. Frames with doors should be located on the frame. They should be secured at the end of the base.

What distance should be from the toilet to the wall? Look for the answer on the next page:

Stages of covering the frame with plastic panels:

Closing begins with the starting molding. The element is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. To hide the fastener heads, the screw must pass through the shelf that the next panel covers.
Next we lay the next panels, placing them in the grooves. The free end of the panel is secured with a self-tapping screw. All panels are installed this way.
Doors are installed in the wall.
A molding is also mounted on the opposite side. All joints are processed in the same way. Ventilation must be provided in the box.

Fastening elements can be not only self-tapping screws. Claypers, clips, and glue are widely used. The main thing is that the fastening can be removed if necessary.

Creating a door in the toilet behind the toilet: simple and useful

A simple option on how to sew up pipes in a toilet: stylish blinds

With the help of blinds you can quickly and easily hide an unwanted technological unit. This is an aesthetic option. Blinds have many positive aspects.

Pros of using blinds:

Installation is simple and easy to do yourself;
Do not take up much space, suitable for small rooms;
Provide free access to pipes;
Wide range of different options;
Simple repair.

You will be pleased with the durability of the material and affordable cost. For bathroom and toilet ideal option There will be aluminum or plastic blinds. Wooden curtains are not suitable for rooms with high humidity.

Plumbing blinds are also used for baths and toilets. This is a stylish and neat option. You can often find blinds with photo printing on the market. At the same time, a niche is created inside where it is convenient to store household items.

Ways to close the pipes in the toilet (video)

Decorating the plumbing fixtures in the bathroom is considered a particularly sensitive task, especially in a Khrushchev-era building where there is little space. Disguise can be different. The sealing can be done using a false wall, PVC panels, blinds or a cabinet with shelves inside and free access to communications. Decorative materials also varied. The use of plastic, plasterboard, and fiberboard is very popular.

Open placement of water and waste lines is most often perceived as a violation of the overall design toilet room, which is usually eliminated by masking the pipes located in it. The issue of insulating openly laid pipe lines arises with particular urgency when there is a common sewer riser in the toilet.

Due to the need to solve this problem, we decided to familiarize all interested parties with how to sew up pipes in a toilet, safely hiding them from the eyes of visitors. In the process of studying information on this topic, it turned out that a variety of building materials can be used to close pipes.

Material selection

environmental safety (no harmful emissions when high humidity and ambient temperature);
resistance to corrosion, as well as its spread to neighboring objects;
the possibility of arranging a fairly light structure that does not clutter up a small room.

When deciding on materials suitable for closing pipes in a toilet, the contractor is usually offered the following options:

plastic panels,
MDF panels,
moisture resistant plywood,
plasterboard (moisture-resistant).

In addition to the characteristics of the material used, the choice should also take into account its decorative properties, ensuring a harmonious combination of the cladding with the interior of the room itself.

Preparing the supporting frame and marking it

Carrier installation frame structure you should start by measuring the niche in which water and sewer pipes are traditionally located in communal apartments. To do this, you will have to arm yourself with a tape measure and make accurate measurements of the location of all the highways available in this place.

Small doors should be provided in the casing to provide access to water meters and valves.

Upon completion of the measurements, you will be able to draw up a small sketch containing precise instructions on the places where the frame elements are attached, as well as on the main dimensions of the future cladding structure.

Sheathing with plastic panels

As an example of covering pipes placed in a toilet niche, consider its lining with plastic panels. To the undeniable advantages of using plastic materials The following are their advantages:

simplicity and ease of installation, which does not require much time;
light weight of the structure and the ability to quickly dismantle it;
high moisture resistance;
attractive appearance;
long service life.

Before starting installation work, you should prepare all the necessary materials and tools:

the plastic panels themselves;
aluminum profiles (guides) necessary for arranging the frame;
fastening elements of a prefabricated structure (self-tapping screws, screws, dowels or nails);
perforator;
mounting knife;
building level, screwdriver and screwdriver.

Work order

There are two options for installing panels installed in the toilet:

Complete or “blind” hiding of a niche with pipes by aligning the installation plane of the panels with the wall surface. This finishing method leaves no traces of the presence of pipes (except for the doors), which significantly improves the design of the toilet room. But at the same time her usable area is somewhat reduced.
Partial closure of a niche, in which only one pipe is closed using boxes. The advantages of this method include saving finishing material and reducing the space occupied by the cladding.

Having decided on the choice of a suitable method for closing the niche, you can proceed to marking the mounting locations for the aluminum guides (profiles). For subsequent installation of the guides, you should use the previously prepared sketch; in this case, the length of the profile blanks is adjusted using a hacksaw for metal. Direct fastening of the guides to the walls is carried out using dowel-nails, driven in at intervals of 30-40 cm. The sheathing panels themselves are attached to the guides using self-tapping screws.

It makes no sense to tightly close a niche with highways that have obvious defects. This is explained by the fact that at some point in time you will still have to completely dismantle the casing and frame to carry out overhaul pipes