Parquet has been used as a floor covering for a long time. During this time, it managed to establish itself as a practical and durable material. In addition, to master the technology of its installation, you do not need to have special knowledge. In the production of parquet boards, only natural wood is used, which ensures impeccable quality and durability of the coating. Let us consider all the features of the choice and method of laying parquet in more detail.

There are two installation methods. To make the right choice, you need to focus on the desired result.

1. Using a certain laying direction, you can visually increase the size of the room. To do this, the boards should be placed diagonally. The material is placed at an angle of 45°. But this method also has a drawback - excessive consumption of material, which will be 10-12%.
2. If you need to save on the consumption of boards, then you should give preference to the second option, which involves placing it parallel to the wall. Laying is carried out in the direction of the light flow.

Parquet board. Photo:

Determine the required amount of material

One of the first steps when installing parquet boards is calculating the material.

1. First, the width and length of the room are determined. It is also necessary to know the dimensions of the board; they may differ from each manufacturer.
2. The installation method is also taken into account. For direct placement, a material reserve of 5% should be provided, and for diagonal placement - 10%.
3. Next, based on the parameters of the room and the size of the board, you need to perform calculations.
4. Initially, the area of ​​the room is measured.
5. Then the required percentage is added to the resulting indicator.
6. The final result is divided by the footage of one package.
7. If the number turns out to be a fraction, it must be rounded up.
8. You can also contact the seller who will help you calculate required quantity boards

Preparatory stage

Installation of parquet boards is carried out on a flat base. The difference per 1 m2 should not exceed 2 mm. If the boards are laid on an uneven floor, after a certain period of time they will fall out of the locks and become unusable.

There are two ways to level the surface:

• using plywood;
• using a cement screed.

To lay parquet flooring you should only use flat plywood. For this purpose suitable material grade FC, the thickness of which exceeds 12 mm. It is also recommended to purchase calibrated plywood sheets. The entire batch of such products has the same thickness. You can find sanded sheets on the market, but their use is not particularly necessary. In addition, this material is more expensive than ordinary plywood. The procedure for laying plywood is as follows:

1. Each sheet needs to be cut into 4 fragments.
2. The choice of fasteners depends on the material from which the floor is made. The sheets are attached to the wooden base using nails, to concrete surface– by means of self-tapping screws.
3. Between the sheets you need to leave a space of 3 mm.

Before laying the parquet board, the floor can be leveled using a cement screed:

1. Initially, the previous coating and dust should be removed from the base. If there are cracks, they need to be repaired cement mortar.
2. The joint between the floor and the wall is closed with a damper tape. This will help prevent cracks from forming and the mixture from leaking. The tape should exceed the screed by 4-5 cm.
3. In addition, a waterproofing compound is applied to the floor surface or a polyethylene film is laid.
4. To determine the thickness of the screed layer and the areas where the beacons will be installed, it is necessary to find the highest point. A mark is placed at a distance of a meter from the floor slab.
5. Next, a horizontal line is drawn along the perimeter of the room, which will serve as the base level.
6. Then the distance from this line to the floor is measured and the highest point is determined. The thickness of the screed should not be less than this level.
7. After this, beacons are installed - guiding elements, set in accordance with the initial level. Cannot be used for this purpose wooden parts, because They will absorb moisture as the screed dries. Beacons should be located at a distance of 20 cm from the wall and 30 cm from each other. You can fix them using cement composition. But in this case, before you start screeding, you need to wait until it dries.
8. At the next stage, the solution is prepared. You can purchase a special mixture or prepare the composition yourself. To do this, mix cement with sand in a ratio of 1:3 and add water. For stirring, use a drill equipped with a stirrer. The solution should acquire the consistency of thick sour cream. To check the readiness of the mixture, you need to squeeze the lump in your hand - it should not spread or fall apart. If desired, plasticizers can be added to the composition - elements that increase the plasticity and elasticity of the solution.
9. The mixture is placed starting from the opposite side of the outlet. The composition is laid out between the guides for 0.5 m, after which it is pulled together using the rule.
10. It will take 3 weeks for the screed to dry. During this time, it is necessary to periodically moisten it with a roller. This will prevent cracks from appearing. You can also cover the screed with film for this purpose.

Laying parquet boards: floating installation technology

Parquet flooring in accordance with this method can be laid on wooden base and a screed. The boards are fastened using a tongue-and-groove system. The parquet is not attached to the floor surface. This method has a number of advantages:

1. There is no need to purchase additional adhesive compounds, which reduces costs.
2. Installation work does not take much time.
3. The simplicity of the technology makes it possible to do the installation yourself without involving specialists.
4. If any element is damaged, repairs can be performed in fragments.
5. Replacing one or more boards is carried out without dismantling the covering.

Mounting to wooden floors and joists

1. If you plan to install the coating on a wooden base, you must initially eliminate all existing defects - chips, gouges, cracks, space between the boards.
2. Leveling the old floor will require more time and effort. For this you will need grinder, screws, glue. The boards of the new floor are leveled by hand using a planer.
3. Installation on logs involves fastening to the base using nails. This procedure is performed through the ridges of the connecting board lock.

How to lay a parquet board with glue

This method is used mainly in large rooms. It allows you to ensure strong adhesion of the parquet covering to the base. When choosing this method, you should remember that parquet boards can only be laid using glue on absolutely flat surface. This is the most common method currently used. But it is also quite expensive, since its implementation will require the purchase of additional materials.

To lay parquet boards with your own hands you will need:
hammer;

• hacksaw;
• square;
• block measuring 30 cm;
• pencil, tape measure, ruler;
• thrust bracket;
• wedges;
• drills.

Let's first consider important rules to prepare for the process:

1. During the work and after its completion, the temperature in the room should be at +20°C, humidity should not exceed 60%.
2. If installation is carried out on a heated base, then 48 hours before installation, you need to set the temperature to +18°C.
3. The wood from which the coating is made has the ability to shrink and expand depending on changes in humidity levels. For this reason, a space of 10 mm is left between the floor and walls. A similar gap will be required in the area where the pipes pass.
4. Do not open all packages of material at once. This should be done as work progresses.
5. If the room width exceeds 8 m, the covering is separated by a free seam. The same operation is carried out when moving to another room, in the area where door design and in the area of ​​corners. The longitudinal seam is not glued; it is covered with a separate strip.

The installation process is carried out in the following sequence of actions:

1. First, the boards are checked for defects. If available, only the undamaged part is used. Such parquet is installed in inconspicuous areas. Having laid the first row, you need to make sure that it is even. The entire subsequent process depends on this.
2. If the surface of the wall from which the installation is made is uneven, then the board is cut in accordance with its curve using a hacksaw. First, you need to draw an approximate line with a pencil.
3. Laying the second row begins with the fragment remaining from the previous board. Transverse seams should be spaced 50 cm apart.
4. The adhesive is applied to the upper and lower edges of the groove in a layer of 2 mm. Excess glue must be removed from the surface of the coating using a damp rag. One liter of the composition can treat 15 m2 of area.
5. The boards are connected using a block.
6. If there are pipes in the room where the installation is being carried out, then you need to cut off a fragment from the board that will be laid behind the communications.
7. Next, using a square, two lines are marked on it, corresponding to the diameter of the pipes. The distance from the middle of the communications to the installed board is marked.
8. Then you need to drill holes, the diameter of which should be 20 mm larger than the size of the pipes.
9. Using a hacksaw, passages are cut along the marked lines, after which the board is installed.
10. Glue is applied to the edges of the sawn fragments, and they are installed in the cut area.

When installing parquet boards, it is often necessary to shorten the door frame and trim. To do this, you need to lay a separate board with a backing next to the box. Next, the platbands and the box are cut off with a hacksaw. Special linings are installed in the threshold area. The width of the last board does not always correspond to the required size. In this situation, it needs to be placed on the previous panel (their edges must match) and sawed. You can make approximate marks in advance.

The sawn-off fragment is mounted using a bracket. Wedges are installed for fixation. The seams can be treated with mastic. It will take 4 hours for the glue to dry. After this time, the wedges must be removed and the baseboards installed. This covering can also be laid on carpet or linoleum. But in this situation, fastening can only be done using the floating method. As a result, you will get excellent and reliable coverage made of oak parquet boards, which will fit favorably into any interior.

Grinding processing

Sanding allows you to hide all coating defects. After this procedure, parquet boards made of ash, larch and other species take on a more attractive appearance. To work you need to prepare:

• a special machine;
• sandpaper of different grain sizes;
• vacuum cleaner;
• wood putty;
• varnish, roller, brushes.

The processing process looks like this:

1. No. 40 abrasive is installed on the machine.
2. First, grinding is performed by tilting the drum at an angle of 45°.
3. Then the procedure is repeated, but in the direction of laying the boards.
4. The work should be carried out until the unevenness and roughness disappear completely.
5. To treat various hard-to-reach areas, a “boot” device is used.
6. At the final stage, the surface is treated with fine-grained abrasive.
7. To check the quality of grinding, you need to run your hand over the coating and check - it should be perfectly smooth.

Parquet manufacturers

Tarkett parquet boards are made from pine, oak and other species natural wood. The manufacturer offers wide range of this product. The consumer has the opportunity to choose a suitable parquet flooring from a wide variety color range. The most popular type of product from the Tarket company is a three-strip board, 14 cm thick.

The high quality of this material allows it to be used in premises for any purpose. The interlocking connections of the boards undergo thorough testing and meet all quality requirements. The manufacturer provides a fifteen-year warranty on its products. At the same time, Tarkett boards are affordable.

Polarwood parquet board has a multi-layer structure. In each layer, the wood fibers are located in a perpendicular direction, which increases the strength of the material. The middle layer, which takes on the bulk of the load, is made from coniferous species. And the base of the board, which acts as a stabilizer, is made of birch. On outside 5 layers of varnish are applied to the material.

To manufacture its products, Polarwood uses exclusively natural materials. The parquet flooring of this manufacturer is resistant to high temperatures and ultraviolet rays. Polarwood boards retain their performance characteristics for 20 years.

Conclusion

Laying parquet boards can be done in several ways, each of which has its own advantages. Process It is simple and does not require special preparation, and a wide variety of materials will allow you to choose the best option for your interior.

Laying parquet boards. Video:

Installing flooring is a very responsible process and not always easy, especially when it comes to parquet boards. Proper installation of parquet has many nuances, and it may seem like an overwhelming task to an inexperienced person. But if you study the instructions in detail and choose the material wisely, installing parquet boards yourself will turn out no worse than those done by specialists.

Parquet boards are a popular and sought-after material, which is why many companies produce them. Not all of them can boast of the high quality of their product, which means you should choose very carefully.

A standard parquet board consists of three layers:

• The front layer is made of expensive wood, treated with varnish or impregnated with special oil. The thickness of the front covering is from 1 to 6 mm;
• For the middle layer, short slats made of spruce and pine, and sometimes moisture-resistant plywood, are used. All elements of the locking system are also located here;
• the third layer is spruce veneer 2 mm thick.

: length 2-2.5 m, width up to 20 cm, thickness from 7 to 26 mm.

For rooms with light floor load a board will do thickness from 10 mm. For the living room, it is better to choose a coating with a thickness of 13-15 mm, which is more resistant to mechanical stress. If the floor is laid on joists rather than on concrete screed, you should choose parquet boards of maximum thickness.

Another criterion for selection is the number of lamellas of the top layer. If the face layer consists of a single piece of wood, it is called single-strip. If the covering consists of two or three tightly fitted parallel lamellas, it is already a multi-strip parquet board. Single-strip boards visually expand the room and look great in classic interiors. There are options for this coating with chamfers at the corners, which creates the impression solid board from expensive wood.

The most traditional option is considered to be a three-strip board with a pattern similar to natural parquet. Each of the three lamellas is divided into several segments that differ in tone. The segments can be arranged in the form of a wicker, a parquet herringbone or in parallel, in the form of a deck pattern. This coating is very decorative and looks great in both small and large spaces. spacious rooms.

The parquet board must be laid on a solid, level and clean base. Any defects, cracks, or delamination of the base lead to deformation of the boards and reduce their strength. When installing this coating, a height difference of only 1-3 mm per square meter is allowed. So, first, the base is cleaned of debris and dust and its integrity is checked. Deep cracks should be sealed with cement mortar, small ones are simply rubbed over. Using the rule, check the flatness of the floor and, if necessary, fill the screed.

Place on a dry base plastic film or a special waterproofing membrane. Its edges should extend onto the walls by about 5 cm.

A layer of thermal insulation should be laid on the film; Most often, foamed polyethylene in rolls is used for these purposes. The insulation is cut into pieces along the length of the floor, laid tightly against the walls, and glued together with tape. Instead of polyethylene, polystyrene foam boards and sheet cork are also used. The insulation layer has good shock absorption, does not allow cement dust to seep in, and evens out minor defects in the base.

During the installation process you will need:

There are two installation methods: floating and adhesive.

The fastest and most convenient is the first option. In this case, the boards can be fastened with locks or glued together at the ends. The locking system allows for high-quality laying of the coating in the shortest possible time, and also greatly facilitates the replacement of damaged areas.

Step 1. Installation of the first row

First, measure the width of the room and calculate the number of rows of panels. It is very important to know the width of the last row: if it is less than 4 cm, all the boards of the first row should be cut to the same width. Start work from the corner of the longest wall from left to right. The board is turned with the lock to the wall and placed on the floor.

Several mounting wedges are inserted between the wall surface and the edge of the board to provide a gap of 6-7 mm. The end of the next board is placed close to the first and the grooves are connected. This is how the entire first row is mounted, cutting off last board according to the size of the room and not forgetting the gap between the wall and the covering.

Step 2. Laying subsequent rows

For high-quality adhesion, the rows must be shifted parallel to each other by at least 30 cm. The first panel of the second row is cut in half and laid away from the wall. To connect to the first row, take the board with both hands, apply it at an angle to the edge of the fixed panel, level it and click the lock with pressure. The remaining panels are mounted in the same way. To speed up this process, use a rubber or wooden hammer, carefully knocking the boards along the joint line.

Step 3. Trimming the covering for the door frame

When installing the covering near a doorway, take a piece of board and apply it to the bottom edge of the frame. They cut out part of the stand so that the board fits tightly under the box, and immediately remove the sawdust and dust. A thin line of the substrate is cut along the threshold, and aluminum profile with holes for fastening, marking them on the floor with a pencil.

Drill holes for dowels and secure the profile. Next, they cut the parquet board, insert it under the door frame, and click the locks. Finally, they install at the opening metal threshold, screwing it to the profile and covering the ends of the boards.

Step 4. Final stage of installation

When laying parquet boards around communication pipes, use a paper template: apply the template to the panel, mark the boundaries of the hole with a pencil, and cut out the desired fragment with a jigsaw. It is necessary to leave at least 1 cm between the last row and the wall of the room, otherwise the floor may be deformed. When all the boards are laid, the wedges are removed, the baseboards are installed, and the floor surface is wiped with a clean rag.

Glue installation method

With the adhesive installation method, the parquet board is laid directly on the concrete screed. In order for the floor covering to serve for a long time, the base is well prepared: carefully leveled, cleaned of dust, and covered with a dense layer of synthetic-based primer.

Attaching each panel should take no more than 10 minutes so that the glue does not have time to dry. Instead of sealant, you can use cork chips - it easily penetrates the seams, insulates heat well, and does not allow cement dust to pass through.

Installation of parquet boards on heated floors and joists

Parquet boards are very demanding on temperature conditions and do not tolerate overheating. The maximum permissible value is 26°C above zero, and even then not for every type of wood. If the material is suitable for laying on a heated floor, this must be indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer. If there is no such information, it is not worth the risk, because replacing dry floors will be very expensive. Install the parquet board directly onto the heated floor system using a floating method.

It is not recommended to lay such a covering on a water-heated floor, since if the pipes break or burst, the parquet board will be severely damaged. It is best if an electric or infrared heated floor is installed - their design is more reliable.

Many people prefer to lay flooring on joists. In this case, you will need sheets of waterproof plywood and screws for fastening it. The logs must be strong and level, located in one horizontal plane. The space between the joists is covered with a waterproofing film, filled with insulation, and then sheets of plywood, pre-treated with an antiseptic compound, are stuffed on top.

When using the adhesive installation method, the boards are glued directly to the plywood, but if the floating method is used, it is recommended to lay a cork backing on the plywood. The installation process follows the technology described above. In some cases, parquet boards are mounted directly on the joists. In this case, the distance between the logs is made no more than 60 cm, and the parquet board is chosen as thick as possible.

Video - DIY parquet board installation

It is difficult to argue with the opinion of craftsmen who claim that a real wooden floor can only be made from parquet or parquet boards. Traditionally, parquet is laid on a prepared substrate or on joists. Modern quality multilayer parquet board allows you to lay the material even on concrete. The pleasure is not cheap, but the quality of the coating is very high. The outer surface of the flooring is lined with inserts made of hardwood, traditionally used for the manufacture and installation of parquet. Therefore, the floor turns out to be beautiful and durable, but on one condition, the master who undertakes the installation must understand perfectly how to lay a parquet board on a concrete floor.

What is parquet board

The classic version of a typesetting covering made from small parquet boards is quite rare today, primarily due to the high price of the material. A board 400-500 mm long and 40-50 mm wide was cut from solid oak or elm, carefully finished and sorted according to the pattern and surface texture. As a result, high-quality oak parquet cost an astronomical amount of money; in order to lay a parquet board, you had to find an experienced craftsman. The material required daily care, periodic sanding, sanding and wax polishing.

Modern parquet is much easier to use. Manufactured in two versions:

• In the form of a solid thick parquet board made of solid oak or beech wood;
• In the form of a lamella glued together from a pine base, with an outer insert made of hardwood.

For your information! The dimensions of a parquet board are several times larger than the dimensions of a classic parquet fragment, it is much cheaper and easier to handle; it is quite possible to lay the board on a concrete floor with your own hands.

Parquet made from solid wood is much more expensive than a three-layer coating, so it is used as finishing for expensive renovations, offices, apartments and executive premises. At the same time, glued parquet boards, even with external cladding made from expensive types of wood, it is becoming increasingly popular due to its relatively affordable price and the ability to lay the material with your own hands.

Parquet boards are produced in the form of lamellas up to 250 mm wide, 2200 mm long, 12-14 mm thick. Top layer oak or beech may have additional oil or varnish coating, preventing the most sensitive part of the parquet from absorbing moisture and subsequent warping. A tongue and groove is cut on the sides of each lamella, allowing the parquet boards to be laid into one hard floor covering.

Laying out two-layer parquet boards, laying technology

There are several ways to lay a parquet board on a concrete floor:

1. On a plywood base with fastening the lamellas using self-tapping screws or pneumatic nails. In fact, this is the most difficult and durable way lay parquet boards and make the floor as durable and reliable as possible. The only drawback of this method is the inability to disassemble the parquet floor in the event of force majeure;
2. Lay in a floating or loose manner. In this case, the parquet board lies freely on the surface of the concrete floor, without attaching the laid board to the base of the plywood base;
3. Laying parquet lamellas on adhesive base. This method is used for very high concrete floors when it is not possible to lay a lining layer of OSB or plywood.

The worst enemy of a parquet board is open moisture and water condensation, so craftsmen prefer not to lay parquet directly on a concrete floor, even if there is an intermediate layer of primer and protective film. A cold, damp concrete surface always becomes a site of condensation of water vapor, causing swelling and warping of the supporting surface of the parquet board.

Experts recommend laying parquet on a wooden, plywood or cardboard base for two reasons. Firstly, in this way it is possible to additionally compensate for surface defects for laying parquet, and secondly, the adhesion of the base of the parquet board to the concrete base of the floor is improved.

Before making a choice on how to lay the parquet board, it is necessary to bring the quality of the concrete surface to the most even state, without bumps and humps.

Preparing the concrete floor surface for laying parquet

High-quality preparation of a concrete floor before laying parquet requires enormous patience and a significant investment of time and effort. Assembling the flooring from parquet boards is often much easier than leveling it concrete base. But it is extremely important to level it. A parquet floor is not even a laminate or linoleum, which can be laid on almost any concrete screed. On a base with small flaws, with depressions and a slope, a laminate coating can be laid, and only if a high-quality substrate is used.

Why is it so important to lay parquet on a perfectly flat and rigid base surface? The fact is that the behavior of a parquet board is fundamentally different from a classic parquet board. Relatively hard parquet board large sizes on an uneven surface it will definitely begin to “play” under your feet or under the weight of furniture. As a result, the joints between parquet flooring will automatically undergo shear and fracture, which will ultimately lead to the destruction of the lock and detachment from the adhesive base.

To install a high-quality parquet board that will last for a couple of decades, you need to do the following:

If the error is within normal limits, you can lay parquet; if during all the manipulations it was not possible to level the concrete surface, then it makes sense to make a self-leveling self-leveling floor, which will allow you to lay parquet without a base or with minimum thickness lining material.

If the concrete floor is on the ground floor, and the height allows you to lay another 20-25 mm of leveling mixture, then it would be more rational to use a self-leveling base. Otherwise, you will need to lay cushioning material made of OSB, waterproof plywood or very dense corrugated cardboard. The thickness of the lining is selected as ¾ of the thickness of the parquet board.

Laying parquet boards

Before laying the plywood sheets, the concrete is treated with a thin layer acrylic primer. In order to lay the plywood base as firmly and accurately as possible, the consistency of the glue should correspond to thick sour cream. It is applied to the concrete with a brush and rubbed with a wide steel spatula.

After this, you can lay down sheets of lining material. The procedure is quite labor-intensive, but there is no need to rush. As in the case of leveling a concrete surface under a parquet board, when laying plywood you should try to get the most even horizontal surface possible. Sheets are stacked chessboard or “running”, the seams are sealed with acrylic-based sealant. After about two days, the seams and the plane of the lining layer are checked with a horizontal level and sanded with a belt sander.

Installation of adhesive-based parquet boards

If the concrete base has been leveled to the required surface quality, then it makes sense to lay the parquet board directly on the concrete using glue. With this solution, it will be possible to lay the package faster and better than when using a wooden backing.

For gluing parquet, two types of glue are used - on acrylic resin and on a two-component polyurethane base. Both glue options allow you to lay parquet with high quality adhesion, so it is not necessary to buy the most expensive brands of glue. Previously, parquet and linoleum were laid on a concrete floor using bitumen-styrene mastic, used for waterproofing roofing coverings. The quality and durability of this option were quite high.

Before laying the first two rows, restrictive wedges are installed along the wall, providing a gap of 10-12 mm between the first row and vertical surface. The glue dries quickly, so it is prepared in small portions and, if possible, used immediately. The adhesive layer is applied with a notched trowel, as in the photo, only on an area the size of a single board, after which the first parquet flooring is laid out with a spike against the wall. In addition to the supporting surface, the glue must be placed in the lock so that the joints between the parquet boards are also glued.

Each subsequent row must be trimmed and laid so that the end seam between the boards is shifted by 1/3 of the length relative to the previous row. Each board must be correctly connected to the previous row, and most importantly, it must be carefully aligned in a horizontal plane and tacked.

After installation, excess glue is removed and the seams are rubbed down acrylic sealant. After 4-5 days you can start finishing parquet

In a similar way, you can lay a parquet board on a backing made of plywood or pressed fiberboard.

Free laying parquet

On a high quality wooden base, parquet boards can be laid without the use of nails or adhesive compositions. Typically, such a coating is laid for small rooms, in which the difference in temperature and air humidity can reach significant values. For example, glazed terrace or living room.

In this case, the parquet flooring is assembled from individual boards, similar to a laminate flooring. Such parquet is held on the surface of the lining layer only due to the interlocking of the locks, which allows it to expand freely when heated or increased air humidity.

Conclusion

Before you begin laying the flooring, the parquet material must spend at least a week in the room where it is intended to be laid. The boards will gain the required level of moisture, and the floors will not creak or deform due to excess or lack of moisture. After laying the parquet, you will need to sand the seams and pre-sand the surface. Next, all that remains is to treat it with mastic or apply a varnish coating.

Name of work	Unit of measurement	Price, rub.
Preparing the base
Grinding cement screed (minor unevenness, no leveling)
Primer of cement screed
Plywood flooring (wooden base)
Discrete plywood flooring (concrete base)
Laying plywood with glue and screws (concrete base)
Sanding plywood
Laying parquet on a finished base
Laying laminated parquet
Laying parquet boards
Laying piece parquet uncoated (plain)
Laying parquet (geometric shapes) without frieze
Laying parquet (plant ornaments)
Laying solid unfinished boards on plywood
Laying wt. plywood coated boards
Installation of cork expansion joints
Installation of frieze
Sanding and varnishing parquet
Grinding: draw machine, flat grinder, angle grinder;
Parquet varnishing (3 layers)
Oil application
Applying colored oil
Brushing
Restoring chamfers on solid boards
Other services
Installation of skirting boards
Painting, priming and varnishing skirting boards
Visit of a technician (technologist) in Moscow

Orders for laying and sanding parquet are accepted from 20 sq.m.

Laying parquet is a multi-stage process that requires a specialist not only to have relevant experience and qualifications, but also to consistently perform all technological steps. Carrying out such work with your own hands, especially if you are doing it for the first time, is quite a risky undertaking. The final result also depends largely on the correct selection of materials used and their quality. The issue with the parquet chemicals used is especially acute. Unfortunately, the level of quality of products manufactured in this area in the post-Soviet space today remains critically low. The chemical production facilities established by Western manufacturers in Russia are not correcting the situation either. In addition to the meager assortment, their products are often not distinguished by outstanding technical characteristics, so in demand when carrying out parquet laying work. Over more than two decades of working with products from various manufacturers, our installation specialists have long chosen the parquet chemicals of the Italian concern Vermeister for its safety for health, ease of use and high technical characteristics.

TIP: When choosing chemicals for laying parquet, try to choose a manufacturer whose range includes a full range of products for these finishing works: from primer for screed to the final varnish layer and care products. This way, you will avoid problems caused by the lack of compatibility of certain products.

The installation technology depends on the type of parquet chosen. At the same time, a humidity level within the range of 30% - 60% and a temperature regime of 18°C ​​- 24°C must be observed in all installation technologies until people move into the premises. Also, before starting any parquet laying work, all finishing work associated with the release of moisture into the environment (puttying, painting walls, laying tiles, etc.). Let's look at the main cases of orders from our clients.

Laying block parquet.

The reason, in most cases, is cement screed, must be even (height difference no more than 2 mm per 2 m length), dry (with residual moisture no more than 2% CM), clean (without any greasy stains, paint residues and other substances that can reduce the adhesion of the adhesive) and durable. If the residual moisture content of the base, measured at depth with a carbide hygrometer, exceeds 2%, but is within 5%, prerequisite The continuation of the work is the application of polyurethane waterproofing primer (Primer UR-50). It will create a protective barrier that will prevent the negative effects of moisture on the laid parquet. The use of this primer also reduces glue consumption, increases its adhesion to the base, removing dust from it, and also strengthens the surface, penetrating into depth. If people live in the immediate vicinity of the work area, it is recommended to use a solvent-free polyurethane primer, such as Primer SF from Vermeister. The use of this product is also preferable in the absence of a vapor barrier in the subfloor to prevent solvents from entering the rooms below. If the surface is too smooth, it is recommended to roughen it before applying primer to allow deeper penetration of the product. 24 hours after priming the base, you can proceed to the next stage.

As a base for block parquet, sanded, moisture-resistant birch plywood of grade FK 2/4 or 3/4 with a thickness of 10 mm or more is used, depending on the level of the floor joining the parquet in another room (for more details, see the article “How to choose plywood”). Sheets of plywood are glued to the screed using two-component epoxy-polyurethane adhesive (eg REPOX) and additionally fixed to the floor with self-tapping screws. For objects with elevated environmental requirements For finishing materials, it is preferable to use two-component epoxy-polyurethane adhesive without solvents (for example, ZERO). In cases where there are hidden communications (pipes, etc.) in the floor and there is no plan for their installation, the plywood is cut into smaller pieces of 25*25 cm and glued to the base without fastening with self-tapping screws. Polymerization of the adhesive composition occurs due to the chemical reaction of the two mixed components. Thus, possible changes in humidity and temperature do not affect the speed of its setting, and after 72 hours we are able to begin sanding the plywood.

Plywood is sanded using a sanding machine. drum type using 36 or 40 grit abrasive. This operation is performed in order to align the edges of the plywood adjacent to each other.

For gluing parquet, use one of three types glue: water-dispersed, epoxy-polyurethane or silane-based. Each of them has its own advantages.

Water-dispersed adhesive (eg REVIN SX) is odorless and quite economical in price. However, it should be used only for fixing parquet of species insensitive to moisture, and also if there is a significant amount of time left, since the process of complete drying of the glue before subsequent sanding of the parquet takes at least 18 days.

Two-component epoxy-polyurethane glue dries completely within 3 days, costs a little more, but can be used with any type of wood, including exotic ones. The polymerization of this glue does not depend on the level of humidity and temperature in the room, however, when choosing a manufacturer, you should definitely check the life time ready mixture two product components. For comfortable work with the material, it should be at least, and preferably more than, 2 hours, in order to have time to work out the entire set and not throw away the unused remainder. When working with two-component glue pay special attention to the quality of mixing the components. Be sure to use electric drill with nozzle for best results. Otherwise, there is a risk of incomplete polymerization of the product with subsequent tearing of the parquet from the base or an excessively long drying time for the adhesive.

The new generation of adhesives based on modified silane occupies the highest level in the hierarchy of adhesive compositions for parquet. This type of glue has no equal in strength, elasticity, ease of use and versatility of use. In addition to soundproofing properties, resistance to moisture and the possibility of subsequent operation at temperatures ranging from -40°C to +90°C, this type of adhesive is characterized by maximum safety for human health and is ideal for use in facilities with the highest requirements for environmental friendliness of finishing materials . A stable adhesive ridge, formed when applying the material to the surface with a notched trowel, guarantees economical consumption of the product. The cost of this glue is above average, however, this is more than compensated by its qualities. Vermeister assortment this type glue is represented by two products: MONOSIL and ZEROMONO.

Before laying parquet on the base, you need to make sure that it is in temperature and humidity balance with the microclimate of the room. The glue is applied to the surface of the plywood with a notched trowel. In this case, the size of the teeth determines the amount of glue applied.

There are several ways to lay block parquet. The most common and in demand today is the deck type of installation. The parquet strips are placed staggered with an offset of 1/2 or 1/3 relative to each other and, in addition to glue, are fixed to the plywood at an angle of 45° with nails without heads (pins) using a pneumatic gun. When calculating the amount of parquet, in this case you should add 5% for the reserve that is consumed when cutting parquet strips during installation against the walls. The direction in which parquet is laid depends on the shape and functionality of the room. In corridors and walk-through rooms, it is preferable to lay the dies along the movement, and in non-passage rooms - perpendicular to the entrance. The option in which the parquet is laid at 45° to the wall helps to visually expand the room and enliven the design. In this case, it is necessary to include an additional 15% of the material from the net area into consumption. It should be remembered that the light from the window falling on the parquet laid parallel to it will highlight the joints of the tiles.

Laying piece parquet in the form of a herringbone places increased demands on the geometry of the parquet planks, because any non-compliance with strict rectangular shape guarantees displacement and disruption of the pattern with each subsequent die. The symmetry of the pattern plays an equally important role.

Another common installation option is in the form of diamonds (squares). The number of planks forming a figure directly depends on their length. It is important to remember that in spacious rooms it is better to use piece parquet with a length of 420 and 490 mm, so that the pattern does not appear too small and is not lost in space. Parquet with a length of 350, 280 and 210 mm looks more advantageous in rooms with a small area.

TIP: if you prefer a calm, uniform floor texture, and in the purchased parquet, some planks have knots, sapwood, marble and other natural manifestations natural wood, before laying, sort the planks and place them in places that are obviously hidden from view: a built-in closet, corners of the room, any furniture that cannot be rearranged.

After the stage of laying piece parquet is completed, the surface is sanded with special equipment using abrasives of the required grain size, and then varnished or coated with oil (see the articles “Grinding parquet”, “Coating parquet with oil” and “Varnishing parquet”).

Laying solid boards.

Preparing the base before laying solid boards is practically no different from preparing the base for block parquet. The plywood used must be at least 15 mm thick in order to be able to withstand the stress created by the solid board. Water-dispersed adhesive is not used for laying solid boards, since it does not have a sufficient level of elasticity for the adhesive seam to withstand the movement of the board during changes in humidity and temperature in the room during the operation of the floor covering. When working with an already varnished solid board, you need to be doubly careful: if two-component glue gets on the varnished surface, you must immediately remove it with a special CLEANER product. The installation process will be greatly facilitated by silane glue, which can be removed from the surface with a regular rag. In addition to glue, the solid board is fixed through the ridge to the plywood with special “SPAX” type self-tapping screws, which, thanks to a special thread, are completely recessed into the board. The distance between the screws is 20-30 cm, and they perform the primary function of pressing the board to create a strong adhesive seam.

Laying parquet boards.

This is exactly the case when, if you have certain skills and follow the instructions from the manufacturer of the parquet board, you can lay the flooring with your own hands. As you know, parquet boards are laid in a floating manner without being secured to the base. The base can be either a leveled cement screed that meets the same requirements as for laying plywood, or the plywood itself, if it is necessary to raise the floor level and increase the heat and sound insulation of the room. The planks of the parquet board are fixed to each other using the so-called “lock joint”. At the same time this technology has a number of advantages and disadvantages.

Among the positive aspects, one can note the speed with which parquet laying work is carried out in this case, as well as the absence of the need to purchase any additional materials except for polyethylene foam or cork backing 2-3 mm thick. The floor is ready for use immediately upon completion of the work.

In addition to the fact that this technology is not suitable for rooms larger than 240 m², there are a number of troubles that this type of installation can entail. A parquet board laid in a floating manner turns, in fact, into a drum-membrane with an area the size of a room. Any sounds (walking, fallen objects, etc.) will not be absorbed by the floor covering, but will be reflected in both directions: the room where it is laid and down to the neighbors. The cork backing does little to save the situation. When using a polyethylene foam backing, the situation is even worse. The sound insulation of this material is lower, and over time it shrinks in places of greatest traffic, turning from 3 mm to 1-1.5 mm. Due to differences in level over time, parquet planks may begin to creak when walked. However, this is not even the main problem. By laying a board on a screed or plywood in a floating manner, you deprive yourself of the opportunity to later, if necessary, sand it and re-coat it with varnish or oil. This is due to the fact that parquet grinding machines have a significant weight (up to 100 kg), exerting strong pressure on the parquet surface when grinding. In this case, a parquet board that is not fixed to the base will “walk” during processing, which will inevitably lead to uneven sanding and damaged coating.

Taking into account the fact that the layer of valuable rock in the construction of a parquet board is usually 4-5 mm, the possibility of regrinding and updating its surface increases the service life of your floors by 2-3 times. Therefore, we always recommend our clients to fix it to the base with glue. Thanks to this, the stability of the parquet board also significantly increases, and any restrictions on the width/length of the laid surface and its area disappear.

When choosing an adhesive for laying parquet boards, remember that water-dispersed adhesive is not suitable for this type of work due to its significant moisture content. Use a two-part epoxy-polyurethane adhesive or a silane-based adhesive. The requirements for the base are the same as for laying block parquet. You can walk on the floor within a day after gluing.

TIP: Before you begin installation, unpack several packages of parquet boards and inspect the planks for differences in tone and texture. As the manufacturers say floor coverings from natural wood: “We can’t make a tree grow straight.” Thus, one pack may contain planks that differ in the shade and uniformity of the structure of the living tree. By selecting planks from different packs, you can minimize the differences between parquet boards laid next to each other.

If you still have any questions about laying parquet, our specialists in Moscow are always ready to answer them by phone, advise and clearly show different options for laying parquet in the showroom of the Parquet House company, as well as go to the site for an objective assessment of the condition of the base for laying parquet and specific recommendations specifically for your case. When providing parquet laying services using parquet chemicals that we have tested, we provide a 1-year guarantee on the work performed. This time is enough to understand that the parquet work was carried out with high quality and in compliance with all technologies.

Laying parquet is our element!

The Parquet Business company offers the optimal cost of laying turnkey parquet.

Our craftsmen will perform the entire range of work related to the installation of flooring wooden covering- solid boards, piece, modular parquet using both our own and the customer’s materials.

Our main difference is a professional approach, high-quality and timely implementation of all services provided.

	Preparing the screed	unit	price, rub.
1	Grinding the screed	m 2	250,00
2	Priming the screed	m 2	70,00
3	Vapor-waterproofing device under plywood. Two-component vapor-waterproofing primer	m 2	35,00
4	Cutting a sheet of plywood into small squares	m 2	100,00
5	Laying plywood on glue in small squares	m 2	150,00
6	Sanding plywood	m 2	160,00
7	Strengthening plywood	m 2	150,00
8	Installing the underlay	m 2	150,00

* Prices are for labor only, excluding materials.

Guarantees on all work up to 5 years

Environmentally friendly materials

Guarantee
for all types of work

Favorable prices

Let's loop
day and night

Laying options

Professional installation of parquet in apartments by our craftsmen can be carried out according to various schemes. In order for it to be optimal, the type, size and shade of the material, wood texture, geometry and lighting in the room are taken into account. Since the price per 1 sq. meter (m2) of parquet flooring is significant; experts will always tell you which of the schemes requires more material consumption.

The most common and attractive is the herringbone layout. The cost of installation of such an ornament in Moscow is one of the cheapest. Despite its simplicity, the pattern has a lot of variations. Parquet can be installed diagonally or evenly, with a transverse insert, or from various types of wood.

The “French Christmas tree” type of masonry is currently very popular. This pattern looks interesting, creating a three-dimensional pattern, but it must be taken into account that the material waste will be at least 10-15% for trimming. The “deck” ornament in this regard is more economical and there can be several installation options: offset, straight, diagonally. In this case, the price for laying parquet in Moscow will be approximately the same as for herringbone.

More complex to perform:

• squares;
• diamonds;
• network;
• artistic ornament.

Turnkey prices per m2 (1 square meter) are discussed individually, as they depend on several factors (selection of parquet - natural, select, type of installation, need to use plywood, etc.).

Parquet laying process:

1. The prepared base is treated with soil

2. Cut the plywood into small squares and lay it on two-component glue.

3. Plywood, laid with offset, is then carefully sanded for better adhesion of the glue, as well as to level out minor differences after laying the plywood.

4. Parquet (in this case, pre-fabricated modules) is laid on the prepared plywood cake. The parquet is laid using two-component polyurethane adhesive with additional fixation using studs or screws



When laying artistic parquet curb and edging are installed

5. The laid parquet is carefully sanded and polished. For this purpose, professional grinding equipment from Lagler is used. 6. After thorough cleaning with an industrial vacuum cleaner, the parquet is varnished.