Insulation of a metal entrance door should begin with the elements of the frame. If the box is made from a corner, then insulation is possible only in the places where the box adjoins the doorway. In this case, the gaps are filled with foam, and the excess insulation is cut off with a construction knife. If the box is made of a rectangular or square section, the insulation is placed inside the profile.

The better to insulate

To insulate the door frame, use foam or bulk insulation (sawdust, expanded clay).

Polyurethane foam used to eliminate gaps between the frame and the doorway, as well as to fill the cavities of frame elements made from profiles.

Bulk insulation materials are used only for profiled frames. The profile is filled through a technological hole drilled in the upper part of the box. The diameter of the hole should allow the passage of the largest fractions of filler.

This method has a significant drawback: it is impossible to ensure that the entire internal space of the box is filled with bulk materials. As a result of uneven filling, voids are formed that freeze. Therefore, the use of bulk insulation is possible only in production conditions, when assembling the box in the workshop.

Materials and tools

To insulate the box you will need the following tools and materials:

• electric drill;
• metal drills with a diameter equal to the diameter of the nozzle of a cylinder with polyurethane foam;
• polyurethane foam;
• construction knife.

Insulation instructions

To fill the door frame with foam, you will need to prepare technological holes with a pitch of 500 mm. Through these holes, the internal space of the profile is filled with polyurethane foam. Excess foam coming out through the holes must be removed with a construction knife.

The gaps between the door frame and the doorway are cleaned of old insulation, moistened and filled with polyurethane foam. Excess foam is removed using construction knife, after which the place of contact between the box and the wall is masked with putty.

Insulation of the door leaf

Cheap Chinese doors are usually made without internal insulation, so the owners have to modify the design themselves.

The better to insulate

Before insulating the entrance metal door in an apartment, you need to decide on the type of filler for the interior space of the canvas. Depending on internal structure doors, use:

• polystyrene foam boards or polystyrene foam;
• bulk materials (sawdust, expanded clay);
• polyurethane foam;
• thermal insulating mineral boards.

Polyurethane foam is considered more reliable and durable, but due to high cost it is not used often; polystyrene foam and mineral wool insulation are much more popular.

Insulation with slabs made of mineral wool.

Materials and tools

Before you insulate iron door from the inside, you will need to purchase material and prepare the necessary tools:

• material selected as insulation;
• polyethylene film;
• wooden blocks with a cross-section corresponding to the thickness of the internal space of the door leaf;
• self-tapping screws;
• metal reinforcements for wooden frames (corners, profile);
• electric drill;
• construction knife;
• liquid nails;
• hacksaw;
• set of screwdrivers.

Before insulating the iron entrance door from the outside, you will additionally have to purchase:

• dermantin or eco-leather;
• felt material.

Insulation instructions

Work on insulating the inner and outer parts of the canvas is different. Most often, internal insulation of the door is carried out, because... in this case it has to be disassembled.

Inside

To place insulation inside a metal door you will need to perform the following steps:

• the door is removed from its hinges and installed on a hill;
• dismantle handles, locks and latches;
• dismantle the fiberboard sheet from inside doors;
• take measurements of the internal space to prepare the wooden frame;
• individual elements for the frame are cut from the block;
• applied inside the door leaf adhesive composition and lay plastic film;
• assemble the frame (when assembling, you should take into account the locations of the locks and through handles);

Installation of a wooden frame.
Foaming the gaps between the frame and the door.

• to enhance the rigidity of the frame corner connections reinforced with iron corners;
• Insulation is placed inside the frame cells;
• glue is applied to the sheathing, after which the top is covered with plastic film;
• small cracks and gaps not filled with insulation are filled with polyurethane foam;

Filling the seams between the insulation and the frame.

• inner sheet The fiberboard is returned to its place and secured with self-tapping screws;
• the door is hung on hinges and handles, locks and latches are inserted.

Outside

If necessary, trim with eco-leather steel door outside, perform the following work:

1. The door is removed from its hinges and placed on a hill.
2. Felt insulation is cut to size and glued to door leaf using glue (a 20 mm indentation is made along the perimeter of the canvas).
3. Eco-leather or dermantine canvas is cut to exceed the dimensions of the canvas by 50 mm.
4. Dermantin is glued with a bend to the inside of the door leaf, and it is necessary to maintain uniform tension on the material.
5. A metal strip is stretched around the perimeter of the door leaf, securing it with self-tapping screws. The tape serves as an additional fastener for the sheathing.

To receive decorative surface You can additionally secure the material to the surface of the door using special self-tapping screws with curly heads.

Insulation of the technological gap

The source of heat loss is often a technological gap that appears when installing the door frame. Carrying out work only on insulating a metal door with your own hands, without eliminating heat leaks from the gap, will not bring the desired effect.

The better to insulate

The technological gap is usually 20-25 mm - this is the distance from the wall to the outer edge of the box. It is best to fill this gap with polyurethane foam.

In some cases, door installers immediately cover up the technological gap ordinary solution cement and sand, but this option cannot be considered as insulation.

Cement is not an insulator, but on the contrary, it allows the cold to penetrate into the apartment. At the same time, due to uneven shrinkage, cracks may appear in the technological gap.

Materials and tools

To insulate the gap you will need the following materials and tools:

• polyurethane foam;
• scotch;
• polyethylene film;
• scissors;
• mounting gun(spraying foam using a standard nozzle will be inconvenient);
• construction knife.

Insulation instructions

Thermal insulation of the technological gap is carried out in the following sequence:

1. From the side of the apartment, the platband is removed at the point of contact between the wall and the frame.
2. From the inside, where the box adjoins the wall, a plastic film is attached using tape.
3. Remove the casing from the outside.
4. The outside of the technological gap must be moistened using a thin brush or spray bottle. A humidified environment will speed up the hardening reaction of the polyurethane foam.
5. The foam container is installed in the mounting gun and shaken thoroughly.
6. The first layer is applied with a thin tape. When squeezing out the foam, you need to make sure that the path is not interrupted.
7. After the expansion of the first layer, after 20 minutes, they begin to apply the second layer, taking into account that during expansion the foam does not extend beyond the perimeter of the box.
8. After the insulation has completely hardened, protective film The doors are removed from the inside.
9. The platbands are returned to their place.

If, when the insulation expands, part of the foam extends beyond the box, it is cut off with a construction knife.

Insulation of the vestibule

If it blows at the point of contact of the door leaf with the frame, you will need to insulate the vestibule. Drafts can occur when the edge of the canvas does not fit tightly to the jamb due to deviations from the specified dimensions.

The better to insulate

The insulation of the vestibule is carried out by gluing the inside of the door leaf adjacent to the jamb with special self-adhesive tapes with different sections.

Most often, tape with a round or oval cross-section is used, but for gaps over 3 mm in size, it is recommended to use a sealant with a cross-section in the shape of the letter P.

Materials and tools

To insulate an iron door around the perimeter of the vestibule, you will need the following materials and tools:

• tape insulation of the required section;
• liquid solvent for degreasing the surface;
• scissors.

Insulation instructions

Before you start gluing the tape insulation, you need to degrease the metal surface, for which you use a liquid solvent and a piece of foam rubber.

Tape insulation is glued along the entire height of the door leaf, 3-5 mm away from the outer edge. When installing insulation, it should be pressed firmly against the surface of the door leaf to obtain a reliable connection.

How to insulate a door if it faces the street

In private homes or country houses, there is also a need to insulate an iron street door. Considering that the door is constantly exposed to weather changes and seasonal changes, it is necessary to take a responsible approach to the material that will be used inside the door leaf.

As a suitable insulation material for street door The following materials are presented:

• expanded polystyrene;
• foam;
• expanded clay

These materials have minimal hygroscopicity, so changes in temperature and humidity will not affect their thermal insulation properties.

The process of insulating street metal doors is no different from the process of working with apartment doors.

A metal door is an excellent protection against burglary and uninvited guests, but it does not protect well from the cold. Metal has excellent thermal conductivity, so the temperature on the inside of the door will be almost the same as outside. This can lead to condensation, which can cause metal elements structures will begin to collapse over time. In addition, a gap of 5-8 mm must be left between the metal door and the frame, and through this a gap can enter the apartment. cold air, which also causes deterioration of the microclimate in your home.

All these troubles can be avoided if you insulate the iron entrance door. Insulation can be done using various materials, and the most popular ones are fiber or foam boards. The technology of their use for insulating an iron door is generally similar, similar and thermal characteristics, they differ in mechanical properties and fire safety.

Fiber materials: mineral and stone wool

Fiber insulation materials include mineral and stone wool, made in the form of solid slabs or roll materials. They have excellent heat-insulating properties, do not support combustion, are a good sound insulator, are easy to attach and fit into the size of the door frame. However, it has a significant drawback: when wet, fibrous materials lose volume, after which their thermal insulation properties sharply decrease. Therefore, in the case where the front door separates the cold room and warm apartment, and condensation may form on the metal surface, the use of mineral wool is not advisable. Its use is recommended in heated entrances of apartment buildings.

Foam and polystyrene

Foam plastic polymer material, the bubbles of which are filled with air. Polystyrene has a similar structure, but it is filled not with air, but with nitrogen, due to which it is much less susceptible to destruction and combustion, while its price is slightly higher. Both materials are produced in the form of slabs of various thicknesses, so you can choose the thickness of the insulation layer that will allow you to insulate the iron door and achieve the desired thermal insulation properties. Polystyrene foam and polystyrene are not afraid of moisture, so they can be used in any room.

Required materials and tools

In addition to the insulation chosen according to your conditions, you will need:

• A sheet of laminated chipboard or plywood according to the size of the door, taking into account the frame for making internal lining;
• A block of dry wood to make the internal frame to which the internal
• Polyurethane foam;
• Plaster or putty;
• Polymer seal in the form of a tape;
• Contact universal adhesive for installing insulation on a metal surface;
• Jigsaw and screwdriver;
• A sharp knife for cutting insulation;
• Spatula.

Insulation of the door frame

The frame of a metal door is usually made of a corner fixed to the walls using metal pins. There are often gaps left between the frame and the wall, which are quickly sealed with foam during installation. Polyurethane foam has one drawback - unprotected from light radiation, it very soon loses its properties and collapses. This can be determined by yellow or brown color old foam. If your door frame is insulated this way, you need to remove old foam and perform insulation again.

1. To do this, the wall adjacent to door frame, clean off the remnants of the old insulation, spread the plaster to a solid base and remove any remaining dust.
2. The surface is moistened with water, after which holes and cracks more than 2 cm deep are foamed with polyurethane foam.
3. After the foam expands and hardens, the excess is carefully cut off with a sharp knife.

The box is finished with a layer of plaster or putty, which will play a protective and decorative role. A door frame foamed in this way will no longer allow cold air to pass through.

Door insulation

Before starting work on insulating the door, it is necessary to remove the overhead elements: the peephole, the handle, and the lock lining.

After waiting for the glue to dry, check the insulation for any gaps. Large gaps are foamed with polyurethane foam and then trimmed flush with the insulation; gaps less than 0.5 mm can be filled thin stripes polystyrene foam, using the same glue.

Inner door lining and door gap seal

The internal lining plays a triple role: it protects the insulation from damage, provides additional noise and heat insulation, and also performs a decorative function. Therefore, the interior decoration requires special requirements: it should not only be durable and moisture-resistant, but also look aesthetically pleasing. Typically, the interior decoration is made from laminated chipboard or MDF; it can also be made from moisture resistant plywood, covered with artificial leather.

An iron door, insulated according to all the rules, perfectly retains heat inside the house and is a reliable protection against noise. The service life of the door also increases, since insulation provides reliable protection metal structures from condensation.

If we delve in detail into the materials used for insulation, for example, front door, then we can conclude that each insulation is similar to analogues or has slight differences. Let’s look at what kind of insulation is better to install in metal doors below.

Insulated version of the entrance door

Insulation for the entrance door corrugated cardboard and its features

In addition to its main name, this material is also referred to as cellular insulation. If you look in depth, it is difficult to get much use from such material.

Important! The name of this type of insulation hides simple cardboard, which is compressed using the accordion method. No matter how much manufacturers try to convince of its effectiveness, to tell the truth, even when using it on the front door, the heat in the room will not be retained.

Corrugated cardboard

It is difficult to call such a material one that will isolate the room from the penetration of unnecessary sounds. But according to the structure and its principle, it follows that if corrugated cardboard is installed in the door, this will automatically increase its sound insulation. But no matter how much you want, the quality will remain at the same low level. As for the positive qualities that insulation has, it is probably only that it can qualitatively fill the void inside the door. The manufacturer independently “attributed” a non-existent quality to the material - to retain heat.

We insulate the front door with mineral wool

People have been using this insulation to insulate their entrance doors for a long time and can do this in a variety of conditions. The biggest disadvantage of the material is that it simply does not tolerate high humidity. That is, when exposed to humidity, the insulation begins to absorb it. Then, when exposed to low temperatures, it freezes, due to which not heat enters through the door, but rather cold. This aspect reduces the quality of the material. Due to this, it is not used if the door needs to be insulated, for example, in a private house, where one side is installed on the street.

Mineral wool

At additional conditions the material can be used on any entrance door. At the moment when insulation is carried out with the above material, it is necessary to ensure that the thermal insulation is not exposed to moisture. For this, modern developers have come up with a special vapor barrier. If it is not possible to purchase such an innovation, then use film.

Attention! As for the positive qualities, we can say that the material is good to use in a room where there are small children, since it is environmentally friendly and, in addition, under certain conditions, such door insulation retains heat very well.

If you want high-quality insulation, choose inexpensively - polystyrene foam

Foam plastic is often purchased as insulation used for metal doors. This material can be installed in the front door independently without involving specialists. Unlike the previous option, it does not bunch up. If you compare such insulation, for example, with cardboard, it has the ability to retain heat well. In addition, the quality of sound insulation is noted, which increases significantly during the insulation process. And if we also note the fact that polystyrene foam has a low cost, then it is an ideal insulation material.

Foam plastic

This material has significant disadvantages. The first disadvantage is flammability. If the door catches fire, the material does not start to burn, but releases dangerous substances that harm the human body. Thus, if polystyrene foam burns, a person can suffocate from strong toxic smoke. This aspect has a great impact on quality. The polystyrene itself is polyurethane foam, which had a liquid appearance, but turned into foam.

Insulation using foamed polyurethane

Attention! This material, which adds warmth to the door, is of completely synthetic origin. Its other name is polyurethane foam.

If you are looking for insulation suitable for an iron door, then you need to pay attention to this material. And all because it fills the space inside the door perfectly. In addition, such insulation does not burn and is easy to install.

Foamed polyurethane

In addition, such material can have a rigid and elastic structure. You should lean towards the first option, since after installing it in the door there is the possibility of heat passing into the room. Such insulation will be of higher quality than when polystyrene foam was used.

For double protection of the door, you should choose heat-reflecting insulation

Unlike the above materials used to insulate doors (including foam plastic), this insulation has currently found application for doors made of metal, as well as for those made of solid wood. This material includes foamed polyethylene and special foil. If you pay attention to appearance, then we can say that it is thin, but after the door is insulated, it retains more than 50% more heat than other insulation materials. This is because heat will collect on the foil and heat the door.

Thermal reflective insulation

The process of installing insulation in a door

If we consider the option of action with polystyrene foam, then initially using prepared wooden slats a frame is made, the size of which depends on the parameters of the door. To do this you need to do it from the very beginning required quantity holes and secure the frame. It is then covered with window putty.

After this, the material is placed inside the frame and attached liquid nails. The result is a self-adhesive version. A laminated sheet is placed on top and mounted to the rail using self-tapping screws.

If you use such insulation, the heat will “remain” in the door. To obtain a high-quality effect, an additional material such as a seal is used, which is mounted on the canvas. It prevents drafts.

You can currently purchase such material at any construction or hardware store. It can be made of foam rubber or with a rubber coating and a self-adhesive surface.

To fix such insulation and get from it maximum heat The door is first cleaned of all kinds of dirt, wiped with alcohol and wiped. Only after this the installation begins.

Attention! To correctly purchase this type of insulation, you should initially measure the length and width of the structure installed at the entrance.

The thickness of the material is not difficult to determine. To do this, you should use a piece of plasticine. It is first kneaded in the hand until soft, wrapped in polyethylene and placed between the door frame and the leaf. During the closing process, the material is flattened and in this state the thickness required for a particular installation will be determined, which will help keep the room warm.

Door seal

And in conclusion...

In the end, I would like to say that in addition to the basic materials that are currently used to insulate the front door, there is another option:

• Sintepon. Can be used not only for metal structures, but also for wooden ones.

And at the end of the above, I would like to summarize and say that, regardless of the type of sealant you prefer, to obtain the maximum effect, you should use it not alone, but in combination with another type. The door leaf is insulated using one of the five materials listed above. But in no case should you forget about the presence of drafts, because the material located in the canvas cannot protect against them. Therefore, sealing tape is used as an additional means of protection. In this way, it will be possible to achieve maximum results and not only make the room warm, but also avoid the penetration of such unpleasant cold air.

You can see how to insulate an entrance door made of metal in our video and get a lot out of it useful information and at the same time gain the skills necessary for work.

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Metal entrance doors have two main tasks: to reliably protect owners from intruders and to create comfortable conditions accommodation. Comfort, in turn, is always associated with warmth in an apartment or house. Therefore, insulating the doorway of the front door is the owners’ primary goal after installing a new door block. After all, it, along with windows, is the main conductor of cold into the room. It is necessary to insulate the frame, door leaf and slopes.

In this work we will consider in detail all the stages of thermal insulation of the frame and door leaf. The nuances of the process of insulating slopes are discussed in detail in the material: “Finishing the slopes of the front door,” which makes it possible not to touch on this topic here.

Choosing insulation for the front door

Insulating the front door in an apartment or private house involves carrying out several operations to thermally insulate the doorway:

1. insulation of the technological gap;
2. creating a thermal break in the door frame;
3. thermal insulation of the door leaf inside and outside;
4. sealing gaps between the box and the canvas from drafts;
5. installation of second doors.

Each stage of work requires its own insulation materials.

Insulation of the technological gap

The distance between the wall and the door frame (technological gap) in the vast majority of cases is foamed with polyurethane foam. At the same time, some experts prefer a cement-sand mixture, which in our opinion is not the optimal solution:

• cement mortar conducts heat better, which means the path to the room will be slightly open to the cold;
• Throwing mortar into the opening between the frame and the outer casing from the side of the apartment will require skill and patience, because the gap between the wall material and iron block doors are only 2-2.5 cm.

Thermal insulation of door frame

In all economy class doors, the door frame is not insulated. Metal conducts heat well, which requires creating a thermal break inside the profile. For these purposes you can use:

• expanded clay;
• sawdust;
• polyurethane foam.

For information: recently, a thermal cord has been installed to heat the door frame, which can be turned on and off at any time.

Of the listed materials, foam retains heat best, but it is also the most expensive. The use of bulk insulation is much cheaper, but a problem arises when filling it horizontal elements designs. If the bottom of the profile is partially filled, expanded clay or sawdust will spill out of vertical racks, then filling the top becomes a problem that cannot always be solved. Foam has no such problems.

Conclusion: if the door is really insulated, and thermal insulation processes are not imitated, the insulation of the frame should be polyurethane foam.

Installation of seals

Insulating the entrance door to an apartment will not work if there are no seals on the porch. They are on sale:

• rubber;
• thermoplastic elastomers, also called thermoplastic elastomers (abbreviated TPE);
• artificial rubber;
• silicone;
• foam rubber.

In this case, it is best to buy insulation for the front door from artificial rubber or rubber. Silicone material is much more expensive for comparable technical specifications with the materials noted above.

Foam rubber has a service life of 4-6 years, after which it deforms and lets cold air in from the entrance.

Insulation of the door leaf

Thermal insulation of the door leaf is possible in two ways:

1. The inner part of the door leaf structure is filled with insulation - this technological technique is only possible with a removable sheet on the inside of the door (it is not welded).
2. Thermal insulation material is attached on top of the door from the outside or inside, which does not exclude a double-sided insulation option.

In this regard, both general and specific requirements are imposed on fabric insulation materials. As for the general ones, the materials:

• must be environmentally friendly;
• have a low heat absorption coefficient;
• do not absorb water;
• have an operational resource commensurate with the service life of the doors;
• be affordable to the mass consumer.

Specific ones depend on the location of thermal insulation. So, when insulating a door using upholstery, the insulating material must be elastic and capable of significant deformation, which is not the case with rigid foam insulation.

Polystyrene foam, expanded polystyrene (penoplex), basalt wool, synthetic winterizer, foam rubber, isolon and other materials have become widely popular as fillers.

Well suited for filling the insides of door leaves polystyrene foam. It is lightweight (does not weigh down the door), high strength and wear resistance. The advantages include simple technology laying - easily cut to the size of the cells formed by the stiffeners.

Advanced foam is gaining popularity - expanded polystyrene (trademark"Penoplex"). Many builders believe that these are the same material. In terms of shape - yes, in fact these are different insulation materials, as evidenced by their comparative characteristics.

Thermal conductivity index:

• 0.036–0.050 W/(m K) - foam plastic;
• 0.028 W/(m K) - polystyrene foam.

Water absorption (%):

• 4.0 - foam;
• 0.4 - polystyrene foam.

As can be seen from the comparison, expanded polystyrene with a smaller thickness retains heat better.

Basalt wool- one of the rare building materials, which is difficult to find flaws. He has:

affordable price;

environmental cleanliness;

low thermal conductivity coefficient;

resistance to high temperatures and aggressive environments;

long operating time.

There is only one minus - when it gets wet, it sharply loses its ability to protect the apartment from the cold. For apartments this is not a problem, but for private houses in rural areas(dachas) and the city, it is better not to use it, since in winter the door freezes from the outside and warms up from the inside, as a result of which condensation forms inside the door leaf, which reduces the thermal insulation capabilities basalt wool by 10-15%.

A very effective insulation material is isolon- the result of foaming polyethylene with propane. He has:

• very good thermal insulation properties;
• low water absorption - less than 1%;
• increased flexibility and elasticity;
• simple installation technology;
• low specific gravity;
• long service life - up to 100 years.

Among the disadvantages, the very high price should be noted.

Sintepon is a lightweight, voluminous, elastic non-woven insulation in which synthetic fibers are bonded with glue or thermally. However, its use is justified only in apartments - when the outside temperature drops to -10 o C it becomes useless.

Widely used for door insulation and elastic foam rubber, consisting of 90% air. It has excellent thermal insulation properties and easy installation. The disadvantages include rapid flammability, shorter service life and difficulties during transportation - it cannot be compressed, as the original quality characteristics are lost.

You can insulate a metal entrance door with your own hands using isolon, foam rubber, mineral wool obtained from basalt and batting.

Batting, as insulation, has not found wide application in construction. But it is almost ideal for door upholstery. Only knitting and stitching material is used, which has:

• high level thermal insulation, both from low and from high temperatures, which synthetic materials do not have;
• ability to absorb noise of various origins;
• environmentally friendly - made from natural fibers, mostly made of wool.

TO weaknesses include:

• heavy weight - specific density 200-400 g/m2;
• ability to absorb water in large quantities;
• uneven distribution of fibers during door operation, resulting in areas with thick and thin layer material.

Materials and tools

Each type of insulation requires its own materials and tools.

For technological gap

To fill the space between door block and the wall will require:

• polyurethane foam in tubes;
• masking tape;
• polyethylene film;
• knife or scissors;
• construction gun for foam supply.

FYI: Each foam can has its own spray nozzle. But in many cases it is difficult to work without a pistol. Therefore, professionals take their use for granted.

For door frame

The following will help you perform a thermal break in the box profile:

• an electric drill with a drill of the same diameter as the feed tube of a construction gun;
• polyurethane foam;
• construction gun;
• knife with removable blade.

For the porch

You can fix the problem called “blowing from the cracks between the door leaf and the frame” using:

• seal in one piece;
• universal or special glue;
• scissors or construction knife.

For internal insulation

Replacing the door leaf filler requires the following materials and tools:

• thermal insulation material;
• polyethylene film for waterproofing insulation;
• wooden blocks;
• self-tapping screws;
• glue;
• metal corners to give rigidity to the box of bars;
• electric drills with a set of metal drills;
• construction knife;
• scissors;
• wood saws with fine teeth;
• screwdriver or Phillips screwdriver;
• an awl or thin nail;
• sandpaper P60.

Attention: how to insulate a metal entrance door in an apartment using upholstery is discussed in detail in the article: “Do-it-yourself door upholstery with dermantine.” Therefore, it is not practical to consider the technology of external insulation in this material.

Insulation instructions

Let's take a step-by-step look at how to insulate an iron entrance door quickly and correctly.

Technological gap

Insulation of the doorway in the area of ​​the technological gap is carried out in the following sequence:

1. from the side of the room, the frame and door are closed with plastic film and masking tape- tape is glued to steel profile boxes, film covers the door leaf;
2. the gap is generously moistened with water from a spray bottle or plastic bottle. The installers will say that this way dust is removed. In fact, spraying is carried out for a different purpose: to provide moisture to the foam in order to improve its structure; The polymerization process is much faster and better when high humidity; foam does not fall off the wetted surface;
3. The can is shaken and turned over. Through a thin tube, a small portion of foam is applied in a continuous stripe to the back side of the outer casing. The work is carried out from the bottom up. Performing the operation in two steps will not allow the foam, when expanding, to escape between the metal casing and the wall on the outside of the doors;
4. the work is carried out in two steps, which does not allow the foam, when expanding, to escape between the metal casing and the wall on the outside of the doors. 15-20 minutes after the foam has gained volume, the rest of the gap is foamed, but not more than half of the remaining free space;
5. after foam polymerization protective materials are removed from the doors.

Important: the foam sticking out from under the box must be cut off immediately, and not wait for it to completely harden. In this case, shallow oblique cuts should be left on the cut surface, which will relieve excess pressure on the box and speed up the hardening process.

Door frame

Work on insulating the frame frame must be carried out before installing the doors. To do this, partially use the holes for the anchor bolts, and where there are not enough of them, drill them with a drill. The diameter of the drill should allow the tube of the foam bottle to fit freely inside the frame.

It is advisable to maintain the distance between the holes at 45-50 cm. Drill from the outside of the ends. The interior space of the door frame must be filled from the bottom up. Before work, the holes going inside the frame are sealed with masking tape (the door leaf is protected from foam).

Portrait

The technology for gluing the seal can be seen in the work: “Soundproofing the front door with your own hands.” Here we will dwell on some nuances that were not reflected there.

The seal profile is selected depending on the size of the gap. For large gaps would be better suited a seal similar to the Latin letters O and D. For gaps of 3-5 mm, a cross-section resembling the letters V or P is suitable. And for small gaps you need to buy a C- or K-shaped seal.

Doors inside

Now let’s look at how to insulate the front door in an apartment made in China. Let us immediately note that there are two problems here that should be solved together:

• there are no stiffening ribs;
• The filler is corrugated cardboard, which is considered nominally as insulation.

The work is performed in the following sequence:

• the handle and locks are removed from the door, not only the external elements, but also the locking mechanisms;
• the door is removed from its hinges and placed on a table or floor;
• unscrew the screws that hold the inner sheet of the canvas;
• the sheet is removed and set aside;

• the internal space of the structure is measured;
• from wooden block a lattice is assembled, which should fit tightly into the frame of the canvas. To add rigidity, a screed is made at the corners of the frame - metal corners are attached;
• Stiffening ribs are installed in the grid: two vertical and three horizontal. When installing them, the main thing is not to get horizontal bars on the handle and locks;
• a wooden block is cut out at the location where the lock mechanism is installed;
• glue is applied to the metal in several places in dots - the more such dots, the better;
• under inner size canvas, with an overlap of about 10 cm, a polyethylene film is cut out and covered with metal. In places with glue, it is pressed tightly against the sheet;

Attention: the film does not fit under polystyrene foam (penoplex).

• the lathing is laid on the film;
• The insulation is cut to the size of the cells and placed in the cells of the sheathing. To prevent the material from moving during operation of the door, it is glued to the film and wooden planks. In case of errors in dimensions, if gaps have formed, they are filled with foam. The polyethylene overlap is wrapped onto the sheathing and secured to it with a stapler or glue;
• insulation is cut out at the locations of the locks and handles;
• the insulating material, together with the lattice frame, is covered on top with a film that is attached to the wood;
• the gaps between the sheathing and the frame are filled with foam;
• the removed sheet of door leaf is returned to its place and secured with self-tapping screws;
• a handle and locks are installed;
• the door is hung on hinges.

Doors from outside

Some models Chinese doors non-separable. In this case, they are insulated from the outside. You can sheathe them with leatherette with a large amount of insulation between the door and the dermantine, but in this case the problem of the rigidity of the canvas frame is not solved.

The problem is solved as follows:

• All protruding parts of the handle and locks are removed from the inside of the door;

• the door is removed from its hinges and laid on the floor outer side down;
• its width and height are measured;
• a lathing is made from a wooden block with a cross-section of 20*20 mm - large sizes the bars will make it difficult to access the keyholes;
• stiffening ribs are installed;
• the grille is attached with self-tapping screws to the door;
• the cells are filled with insulation.

The process is completed by finishing the inside of the door with a panel made of MDF, PVC or laminated fiberboard.

Conclusion

Insulating doors allows you to improve living conditions in a house or apartment. In this case, the work must be carried out comprehensively, installing thermal protection:

• for technological gap;
• slopes;
• door frame;
• porch;
• door leaf.

The technologies are not complicated; the entire cycle of work can be completed independently. Minor difficulties may arise only when choosing insulation. For technological gap and door frame best option- polyurethane foam, slopes - cement-sand mixture, porch - sealant made of rubber or caoutchouc, door leaves - penoplex for internal insulation and batting for upholstery with dermantin.

Video on the topic

Reading time ≈ 9 minutes

Despite many advantages, metal doors have one significant drawback - increased thermal conductivity, which can cause a lot of inconvenience during the cold season. Therefore, it is extremely important to know how to insulate a metal entrance door.

Metal entrance door in a private house.

Why do you need to insulate?

A lot of heat can escape through the door structure for the following reasons:

• the presence of cracks, gaps, hollow spaces (for example, inside a box) through which it comes out warm air and a draft is created;
• lack of thermal insulation layer in purchased or homemade door design;
• outdated, damaged thermal insulation layer requiring replacement.

In addition to the obvious benefit - heat preservation - most heat-insulating materials also have high sound insulation properties.

Up to 30% of the heat can escape through an uninsulated door structure.

Video: condensation on a metal door.

Review of materials

Today, several types of insulation are used, the choice of which depends on the characteristics of the door and house (apartment), budget and personal preferences:

• Honeycomb fillers. It got its name due to its external resemblance to a honeycomb. This is a lightweight, inexpensive material made of corrugated cardboard with good soundproofing properties (which is very important in an apartment), but its thermal insulation properties are lower than those of other materials. It is environmentally friendly, has a high level of rigidity, and tolerates temperature changes well.

Corrugated cardboard.

Mineral wool.

• Foam plastic. This material is also often used to insulate door structures, and here’s why - it has high heat and sound insulation, is very easy to use and install, has less weight than other insulation materials, and does not shrink. Low cost is also a significant advantage.

Foam plastic.

• Polyurethane foam (spray foam). It requires tools and work skills, so it is rarely used if you plan to insulate the door yourself. However, the material has a number of advantages: it can evenly fill all voids, it is light and rigid, and is not afraid of temperature changes and high humidity.

Expanded polystyrene.

• Polypropylene. By positive properties does not differ from the above materials - lightweight, resistant to high and low temperatures, humidity, does not shrink, easy to use.

Polypropylene.

In addition to thermal insulation material, it is also important to choose a sealant, because without it the insulation cannot be considered complete and complete - cold air can penetrate through the cracks and gaps. Seals differ in the type of fastening: on a self-adhesive film and those that need to be glued yourself. It is very important to choose the right seal for the door profile, including calculating its thickness.

Tip: to choose the correct thickness of the seal, use the technique with ordinary plasticine - roll it into a sausage with a diameter of 1 cm, wrap it cling film. Next, apply it around the perimeter of the door and close it - the plasticine will press down and take on the thickness you need.

Seals.

Materials and tools

Before starting work, you need to collect all the necessary materials:

• a sheet of plywood or chipboard corresponding to the size of the door;
• metal corners;
• wooden blocks (thickness equal to the width of the corners);
• polyurethane foam;
• sealant (glue if the seal is not self-adhesive);
• putty;
• glue for attaching heat-insulating material (liquid nails);
• jigsaw, screwdriver;
• construction knife, spatula;
• marker/pencil, tape measure.

The scheme for insulating a door structure in an apartment and a private house is almost identical - the door needs to be removed from its hinges, disassembled, the leaf, as well as the slopes, the door frame insulated, all gaps must be insulated and cladding done. Only the insulation material can differ.

Please note: during the installation of the thermal insulation material, the living space will be without a door for some time, therefore it is important to start insulating warm time year.

Door design.

Insulation of the box

The frame of a metal door is usually a rectangle welded from corners. When installing the frame in a doorway, gaps remain between the walls and the structure. They are usually filled with expanded polystyrene. But from UV rays it is destroyed and loses its properties. Therefore, when insulating the old metal structure follow these steps:

• Remove the old mounting foam and also clean the gap from dirt and debris.
• You can install spacers in the doors - it is important to do this before filling with foam, since the uncured mixture reacts very poorly to vibrations and movements.
• To increase adhesion, all areas must be moistened with plain water and refilled with polyurethane foam.

Blowing foam into the box.

• Once the mixture has hardened, cut off any excess areas using a utility knife.
• In order to protect the insulation from UV rays, as well as to make the seam more aesthetically pleasing, it must be covered with putty.

Slopes of a metal door.

Insulation of the canvas

Let's take a step-by-step look at how to insulate a metal entrance door:

Manufacturing of sheathing.

• In the resulting voids you need to place the selected thermal insulation material. Let's look at the example of polystyrene foam - it needs to be “cut” to the size of the cells. It is important to observe the dimensions as accurately as possible so that there are no gaps between the insulation and the frame. The height of the insulation should be equal to the height of the frame - not higher and not lower! Next, the cut sections are attached with liquid nails to the metal sheet.
• If, however, there are gaps between the frame and the thermal insulation, they are filled with polyurethane foam. After curing, the protruding edges are cut flush with the frame.

We will also consider step by step instructions for insulation with mineral wool:

1. The steps, including the manufacture of the sheathing, will be identical. However, before installing the sheathing and laying mineral wool, you need to put a layer of vapor barrier (as we remember, wool is very hygroscopic). To do this, around the entire perimeter metal sheet you need to put a thick oilcloth (film) so that it protrudes beyond the perimeters by 3-4 cm.
2. The cotton wool is cut into pieces according to the size of the frame cells - the pieces should be 1-2 cm larger.
3. After laying the cotton wool, a second layer of film is laid on top, and the bottom layer is folded over it, thus creating a kind of protective film cover. You can use tape to hold the sections together.
4. Finally, the oilcloth layer is covered with penofol (foamed polyethylene with a thin layer of aluminum foil). If the covering is one-sided, it is laid towards the living space.

Penofol is able to reflect up to 96% of heat rays! Foil film thermal insulation efficiency is 2.5 ceramic bricks, 8 cm of mineral wool, 40 cm of aerated concrete or 50 cm of ordinary concrete.

This completes the insulation of the metal sheet; all that remains is to cover the surface and attach the door.

Final cladding

If the door is collapsible, then all that remains is to attach the unscrewed leaf. If the cladding had to be cut off, then a new covering must be made. It will not only protect the thermal insulation layer, but will also have a decorative purpose. Most often, plywood, chipboard or MDF and dermantin are used for this purpose.

How to make cladding with your own hands:

Finishing with foam rubber and dermantine.

• Next, the facing sheet needs to be secured to the door by drilling it into wooden frame. To ensure the strength of the connection, glue is applied around the perimeter.
• A handle, lock and other elements are attached to it.
• A seal is attached to the door frame, and...
  Important! If the door has become thicker than the original version, you need to take care in advance of lengthening the key and the square of the door handle!

Now you know how to insulate a metal entrance door yourself. This is quite simple to do, and all efforts will certainly be justified - heat loss will be reduced, the problem of condensation will be eliminated, the door leaf will last longer, and utility bills will be lower!

Video: insulating a street metal door.