How to achieve shine in products made from epoxy resin? How and with what to polish epoxy resin products?

I’ll immediately make a reservation that in this article we will only talk about products made from brand resins.
It is possible that completely different solutions will be valid for other resins;)

So!
Suddenly an unpleasant situation arose, the mold was old, beloved, and you, even knowing that you risked getting a product with flaws, still used it.

The result is that the product is not perfect(
Throw it away?
No, because so much work and soul was invested in this little miracle!
Correct?
Yes!) Of course, fix it)

Let's look at the situation using the example of such a cabochon

I did what I always do in such situations)
Using a sharp construction knife, I cut off all the excess (burst), and then removed all significant flaws with round cloth-based sandpaper from MIRKA P320. I use just such a skin because it does not leave deep scratches, is suitable for manual labor) and it can be rinsed without harm to the skin itself. And also - she is very tenacious)

Our product has become matte, but already quite smooth.
Now let's get back to transparency) Let's polish!
We take paper for 1000

Carefully polish our cabochon with some water. I do this for about 5 minutes... And move on to the next sheet, with grit P1200

Well, the last thing)
This is exactly what everyone likes to ask each other about and what they like to keep secret)))
Polishing epoxy resin with polishing paste!!!
Tadams!

Car polishing paste by weight 5041 3M

Before this, we tried polishing with GOI paste. It’s terrible, the product is dirty, the whole thing is dirty, and the effect is almost zero(

Then we tried carnauba wax. I was left with a double feeling... It seems to be polishing, but it’s so difficult, it takes so long. Definitely not my option.

We purchased some other polishing compounds, but they were not at all up to par, and they didn’t even leave their names in my memory)

Mirka polishing pastes also performed very well for bringing the surface to a uniform matte finish and removing small marks and as a finishing polishing paste

I hope this article was useful and illustrative.
PS: with large products everything is the same;) We just work with a grinding machine.

ATTENTION!
In our workshop you can order a polishing service for an epoxy resin product or a training workshop on polishing. To do this you need to contact us via

We wish you success and creative inspiration!
Team Composite and K

Seemingly weightless jewelry with fantastic compositions inside will adorn any fashionista. Jewelry made from epoxy compound has firmly occupied its niche in the handmade market. But to achieve the effect of glass transparency, the jeweler needs to put a lot of effort.

After curing polymer composition, as a rule, the jeweler is faced with the need to remove small but spoiling appearance details. For example, when pouring medallions, the viscous composition flows off during the hardening process, forming unnecessary smudges and build-ups. They must be removed and their marks carefully polished. Sometimes, if there is a lot of “extra” mass, you will have to not only sand the product, but also fill it with another layer of plastic in order to surely hide the defect. Experienced craftsmen advise sealing the reverse side of the medallion with tape. Then the stains will simply be removed along with the tape, and minimal cleaning will be required.

After the workpiece has dried and been removed from the special one, it also needs additional correction. Protruding edges or grooves formed during the curing process of the composition require removal. Typically, this type of defect appears during the manufacture of bracelets and rings using molds. Uneven and sharp edges that form on the workpieces need to be smoothed.

Those castings whose shape has no flaws also need similar correction. In order for the product to look perfect, its surface requires careful cleaning - grinding and polishing of the hardened raw material. This is the final stage, giving completeness to the transparent depth of the decor.

Safety precautions

Epoxy hardens completely in 7-8 days. Mechanical processing is recommended to be carried out after this period, since particles of not completely hardened resin are especially dangerous - they remain toxic. This is especially true when drilling, but grinding can also affect an incompletely formed compound.

In terms of the amount of waste, this is the “dirtiest” stage, so it is better to cover the work table with a piece of plastic film. If there is a large amount of work to be done, then you need to take care of protecting your hair and clothes.

At this stage, a lot of fine dust is generated. To prevent it from entering the respiratory tract, it is recommended to work in a respirator with a dust filter. Also, do not lean too close to the workpiece to prevent dust from getting into your eyes. Eyes can be protected with glasses. Upon completion of work workplace and clothes must be cleaned and the room ventilated.

Tools used and their application for sanding and polishing epoxy resin jewelry

A Dremel is a hand-held power tool with a rotating shaft and a variety of attachments. It has many areas of application, including in jewelry.

An additional feature is that using the included drills it is very convenient to make holes for fastenings. Effective for removing large defects, but fine workmanship or processing small crafts, it is too powerful. The device may slip, uneven cleaning may create indentations, cause unnecessary scratches, etc. When cleaning small elements, they simply get knocked out of your hands, and your hands can be injured.

Another electrical appliance is a milling cutter or manicure machine. Its principle of operation is similar to that of a Dremel, but the speed is usually lower. The milling cutter significantly speeds up the grinding and polishing process.

You can only do it manually using sandpaper, nail files and trowel sponges. For particularly fine finishing or cleaning of miniature elements, only this method is suitable. Cleaning should begin with an abrasive with a coarse degree of roughness, then the surface is cleaned in a more gentle way, gradually bringing the part to the required smoothness and transparency.

This method takes a lot of time, but is particularly accurate. Professional craftsmen recommend processing thin lenses, small components, flat uniform surfaces in this way, because... Here it is especially difficult to achieve uniform removal of the defective layer.

All of the above cleaning methods cause a large amount of dust to appear. You can use an original technological method: processing under water. Water 5-10 cm deep is poured into a convenient flat tray. A piece of waterproof sandpaper of the selected degree of abrasiveness is placed on the bottom, against which the jewelry being processed is rubbed with pressure. With this method, dust is completely absent, and grinding is fast and uniform. It is very effective for rings and bracelets.

To ensure minimal mechanical processing, molds should be poured evenly and carefully so that unnecessary protrusions or grooves are not formed. You should work strictly horizontal surfaces, no bending. Otherwise, when it hardens, the poured mixture will be distributed unevenly, and the distortion will need to be corrected.

If the product is planned to be multi-layered, then there is no need to carefully level and polish the layer before the next pour. It is enough to remove the main errors with coarse abrasive paper or a file with a large notch, and the remaining scratches will be reliably hidden by a new layer of epoxy. But if the manufacturing technology provides for coating, then the surface to be varnished must be cleaned carefully and carefully, starting with coarse-grained processing and gradually reducing the level of roughness of the abrasive. The varnish does not hide the damage, and the decor will lose its attractiveness.

Epoxy resin makes very beautiful and original jewelry– especially with strict adherence to technology. But even the most experienced craftsman finished product may be a little uneven and often has streaks. Polishing with epoxy resin will help solve the problem. This stage will allow you to process jewelry and other manufactured items quickly and with excellent results.

Polishing epoxy products

Many needlewomen now make jewelry from epoxy compound. “Home jewelers” know for sure that when removing a product from a mold (mold), a groove is often formed on the pouring side. It turns out that as epoxy hardens, it shrinks slightly in size and changes shape. No less often there is a need for correction of smooth crystals, pendants, medallions. on their back side Smudges, streaks, and growths may appear. There is also a need for surface treatment in the presence of the following defects:

• excess potting mass;
• scratches and small chips;
• protruding edges;
• uneven, pointed edges;
• depressions.

If the defect is serious, there is no need to despair. You will have to thoroughly polish the object, and then apply another layer of epoxy. This will hide the defect without losing quality. All disadvantages will be smoothed out, the product will look perfect. Grinding and polishing is the final stage of work, giving completeness to the decoration.

Tools and materials

You can process finished jewelry at home in different ways. This is done manually or mechanized. The most simple devices for work - an ordinary nail file, a grouting sponge, fine-grain sandpaper. Manual method Used for sanding the most delicate products, for fine finishing. Larger objects are first sanded with sandpaper with a coarser abrasive, then the edges are cleaned, bringing them to the desired smoothness and transparency.

To work with haberdashery, you may also need the following tools:

• dremel – hand tool with a rotating rod and different attachments, it can be used to polish jewelry;
• milling cutter (manicure machine) - works similar to a Dremel, but has a lower number of revolutions.

If pendants, earrings, and bracelets are made regularly, it is better to immediately purchase a Dremel. They are convenient for drilling holes for attaching rings and fastening wires. The only drawback is the unsuitability of a powerful device for the most delicate work, for micro-sized crafts. Small parts get knocked out of your hands, and there is a risk of injury. Therefore, you should have both power tools and hand polishers.

To avoid having to remove too large defects, you should take preventive measures in advance, work carefully and accurately. Molds are poured slowly, without sudden movements, evenly. This will reduce the risk of grooves forming. The work table must be leveled strictly horizontally, then the epoxy will be distributed without drips or distortions.

To achieve a shiny surface of the product, you should choose molds with glossy walls. The matte base of the molds will give the same “look” to epoxy resin jewelry.

Below is the procedure for polishing work if defects do appear on the products:

1. After shaking the jewelry out of the mold, you need to carefully inspect it. If there are large defects, rough processing is required first. It is ideal to use a polishing machine with a speed of up to 1000 rpm. This method will eliminate waves, growths, and make the product smoother.
2. The second step is to make the decoration transparent. To do this, the object must be polished with a smaller abrasive. Professional wheels with fine grains are used, as well as special automotive polishing pastes. Lubricate the circle with paste, first make sure that it is dry, clean, and without scratches.
3. After using the polish you can get a transparent, flat surface hardened resin. Even the smallest shortcomings will be eliminated.
4. At the end of the work, it is recommended to coat the product with a special varnish that protects the pigments from UV radiation. This is also required to prevent yellowing.

Some authors recommend polishing epoxy objects with foam wheels mounted on a drill, including small speeds. First, go over the edges with fine-grained sandpaper and water, removing large irregularities. Next, foam rubber and polishing paste bring the decoration to a shine. If there is no polish, use soapy water. Felt tips should not be used; they can damage the epoxy item.

How to polish jewelry and other products if special tools No? You can take a regular manicure set. They are used to file off the uneven surfaces, then sand the surface completely using sandpaper manually and water (use 600-800 grit). At the end of the work, take the polish and rub it into the object using a cotton swab. The base becomes completely transparent. Afterwards use parquet varnish on water based, which will give the decoration a complete look. Instead of this material, it is permissible to apply a gel polish coating, then dry it with a special nail lamp.

Safety precautions

The material undergoes complete polymerization after a day; some resins can be used only after 48 hours. You can start sanding only after the epoxy has cured, otherwise the product will be damaged. Before polymerization is complete, the resin is harmful to health and releases toxic substances. It is equally harmful to inhale dust particles while sanding. Therefore, the mouth and nose should be protected with a respirator, eyes with goggles, and hands with gloves. Upon completion of work, the room must be thoroughly ventilated and clothes washed.

The strongest adhesive that will glue almost everything, with the exception of nylon, plexiglass, and other non-porous elastic materials, is a two-component epoxy resin. The substance is also used in handicrafts, furniture making, decoupage, cars, creativity, and construction. Otherwise it is called epoxy compound. Epoxy is not used in its free form, only in combination with a hardener, which allows its unique properties to emerge after the polymerization reaction. For this reason, it is important to know how to dilute epoxy resin correctly.

What is epoxy resin

Epoxy resins are oligomers that contain epoxy groups and, when exposed to hardeners, form cross-linked polymers. Hardeners can be polyamines and other compounds. The most common epoxy resins are polycondensation products with bisphenol A or polycondensation with epichlorohydrin phenols.

Liquid epoxy resin can be various shades: from white, transparent, to wine red. But it usually takes the form of a yellow-orange transparent liquid, with a consistency reminiscent of honey, or a solid, brown (tar-like) mass.

Compound

Epoxy resin chemical composition is a synthetic oligomeric compound. Such substances are in demand today in almost all industries. After combining epoxy resin with hardeners, the following results are obtained:

• durable and soft materials;
• hard and tough;
• rubber-like materials.

Epoxy resin is resistant to acids, halogens, alkalis, but is soluble in acetone and esters without film formation. After hardening, no volatile substances are released, and very slight shrinkage of the composition occurs.

How to work with epoxy resin

To work with epoxy resin you will need a hardener, a disposable cup, 2 syringes and a stirring stick.

Advice
Pour the hardener into the resin, not the other way around. Typically, the hardener has a liquid consistency and can splash out if you press the syringe sharply, so do it carefully.

Instructions for use:

1. Take a syringe, draw into it required quantity resin and release into a glass. Do the same with the hardener. Mixing proportions different manufacturers are different, therefore, before starting work, carefully read the instructions for use. Incorrectly diluted epoxy does not harden well.
2. Mix the resin and hardener thoroughly until the mixture becomes homogeneous. You need to mix slowly and carefully; if you do it with sudden movements and quickly, bubbles will appear in the mixture. The liquid consistency of the composition will ensure that bubbles quickly escape; they will remain in the initially thick components. The density of the resin depends on the manufacturer. Insufficiently well mixed components will cause poor hardening of the composition.
3. Polymerization does not occur instantly; you need to wait a little until the mass acquires the consistency required for work.
4. Pour into a mold or make a lens.
5. Wait for the time specified by the manufacturer in the instructions until the epoxy resin completely hardens.

Advice
During hardening, dust particles and various dirt stick well to the mass. Using containers and boxes with a lid will help prevent this. Make the product in a box and close the lid while the composition hardens.

Epoxy resin has conventional hardening stages:

1. At first, the mass is very liquid and drains easily, which makes it most suitable for pouring into a mold. The liquid consistency allows the epoxy to penetrate into the smallest recesses; a thicker composition cannot do this, and the relief will not be very obvious.
2. Over time, the epoxy resin becomes thicker and is suitable for making convex lenses on a flat base. It will not be possible to make such a lens from liquid resin - the composition will roll down from the workpiece. At this stage, it is best to fill non-relief forms at home.
3. The least suitable consistency of the mixture for work is like thick honey. When you put epoxy on a stick, bubbles easily form, which are very difficult to remove. At this stage, the composition is suitable for gluing the parts together. Epoxy is characterized by excellent adhesion and adheres perfectly to most materials (EDP glue was developed based on this property), but easily peels off from polypropylene, polyethylene, silicone, rubber, and surfaces coated with a film of fat.
4. The epoxy resin becomes very thick and sticky, and it is difficult to separate a little from the bulk.
5. The next stage is rubber. Epoxy does not stick to your hands, but easily wrinkles and bends, it can be used to make many products, but if you want it to harden in the desired position, then secure it, otherwise it will return to its original state.
6. Fully cured epoxy resin. It cannot be pressed through with a fingernail; it feels like plastic.

Advice
If there is no mold made of special material, then lubricate the existing one. vegetable oil, but first check how this particular epoxy composition reacts to it.

Epoxy resin from different manufacturers has different curing times. The time of onset of stages is determined exclusively experimentally. There is a soft epoxy resin that remains rubbery even after it has completely cured, which is ideal for some products.

How to divorce

It is necessary to dilute the proportions very carefully, since an insufficient or excessive amount of hardener in the mixture negatively affects the quality of the resulting polymer.

An excess of hardener is characterized by the fact that the composition remains resistant to heat, chemicals and water, but becomes less durable. In addition, excess is released on the surface during operation of the product, so you need to know exactly how to dilute the epoxy resin correctly.

Insufficient hardener makes the resin sticky as part of it remains unbound.

To obtain various mixtures, the hardener and epoxy resin are mixed in different proportions, as you will learn by reading the instructions for use. Modern composition This is usually done like this: 2 parts of resin are taken for 1 part of the hardening components, or the hardener and resin are mixed 1 to 1.

The polymerization rate is influenced by the type of hardener and the temperature of the composition. To speed up the process, heat the mixture slightly. An increase in temperature of 10° C will speed up polymerization by 3 times. There are compositions that include hardening accelerators, and there are also those that harden at low temperatures.

Epoxy resin becomes solid at temperatures from -10 to +200 ° C, which depends on the type of composition used. Most often, a cold-type hardener is used in everyday life; it is found in low-power production conditions and where heat treatment unacceptable.

Hot-type hardeners are used in the process of producing high-strength products that will be subject to significant loads and impacts. high temperatures. Hot polymerization promotes the formation of a dense network of molecules, which ensures the stability of the composition.

Consumption per 1m2

How much epoxy resin will be used depends on the purpose of its use. If you use epoxy as glue, the properties of the surfaces being joined will affect the consumption:

• porosity;
• roughness;
• ability to absorb substances.

Advice
Apply the minimum acceptable amount of epoxy to the surfaces to be glued, then press them together and fix in this position until the glue completely hardens.

Area consumption has great value during production, for example, flooring. If you need to cover a smooth concrete floor, just to keep it dust-free, then 100 g per 1 m2 will be enough. When making a more durable coating, reinforced and perfectly flat, up to 3.5 kg of epoxy resin per 1 m 2 will be required.

Modified epoxies of various shades are used in the construction of polymer self-leveling floors. The polymer pours out of the container onto the floor and spreads due to gravity. Such an application requires consumption of 1 kg of epoxy per 1 m 2 per layer.

How long does it take to dry?

Complete curing of the epoxy usually occurs after 24 hours. Products (for example, brooches, hairpins) that are not subject to significant loads are ready for use after just 12 hours.

What temperature can it withstand?

The melting point of hardened epoxy resin is up to +150-180° C, while its strength will decrease slightly. Some brands of glue can withstand short-term heating up to +400° C and long-term heating up to +250° C.

Is it harmful to health?

After hardening, epoxy resin under normal operating conditions is absolutely harmless to the human body. But its use is limited by the fact that when hardened under industrial production conditions, a small soluble residue (sol fraction) remains in the composition. It is this residue that can cause serious health damage if it is washed away with solvents and enters the human body. Epoxy resins are poisonous before they harden and can adversely affect health.

1. Before starting work, make the table plastic film to avoid leakage and contamination of its surface. Paper will not protect against stains because the epoxy will saturate it.
2. Do not allow water to get into the hardener, epoxy resin, or mixture of these substances. If you work with the composition at high humidity air in the room, hardening will occur poorly.
3. You can give the epoxy any shade. This is done by adding special toners to the composition, but their cost is relatively high. A more affordable option is gel pen ink, paint inside felt-tip pens, markers, or stained glass.
4. Do not work with epoxy at ambient temperatures below +22° C, as there is a possibility that the composition will not harden well.
5. If the resin is kept in a cold room, for example, on a balcony, flakes or grains may appear in it. To return the composition to its original state, heat it to 40-60° C.
6. By placing the product on a radiator, you will shorten the curing time of the epoxy resin. Make sure that the temperature is not too high so that the mixture does not boil with the formation of many bubbles.
7. If a bubble has formed close to the surface of the epoxy resin, simply blow on it through a cocktail straw or an untwisted pen. The resulting bubble will burst.
8. Epoxy is characterized by increased fluidity; for this reason, do not use the composition as a coating (varnish) for relief products.
9. It is possible to make high-quality lenses on blanks with a flat surface only by placing them in a perfectly horizontal position. Otherwise, the lenses will turn out uneven - higher on one side, lower on the other.
10. If the lens slides towards the center and does not cover the edges of the workpiece, this indicates that little epoxy was poured or it is very liquid. Try pouring another layer, this will correct the situation.
11. To prevent the epoxy resin from yellowing over time due to exposure to sunlight and heat, purchase a product that contains a UV filter.
12. If epoxy gets on your hands, wipe off the stains with alcohol, then wash your hands with soap.
13. If resin gets into your eyes or is swallowed, consult a doctor.

Epoxy resins are toxic to a greater or lesser extent, depending on the composition. For this reason, it is necessary to work with them in a well-ventilated room or under a hood. You can completely protect yourself from inhaling organic acid vapors by working with epoxy in a respirator.

The word “epoxy” is known to almost every person. But epoxy resin, the use of which is quite common today, is a type of synthetic resin. It appeared in the 50s. last century and immediately gained popularity due to its universal properties.

Today, epoxy resins are used in industrial production And household. Application possibilities are constantly expanding due to the development of formulations with improved characteristics.

Description of epoxy resin

In terms of its chemical composition, epoxy resin is an oligomeric synthetic compound. These materials are in demand today in almost all areas of industry. Epoxy is not used in its free form, but when combined with a hardener it can exhibit unique properties after the polymerization reaction. If epoxy resin is combined with hardening agents, you can get:

• hard solid materials;
• softer and stronger products;
• rubber-like materials.

Epoxy resins are resistant to the following substances:

• halogens;
• acids;
• alkalis.

However, dissolution occurs in esters and acetone without film formation. Once the epoxy resin is cured, its composition does not release volatile substances, and shrinkage is negligible.

Features of diluting epoxy resin

If you are wondering how to dilute epoxy resin, then you should know that a lack or excess of hardener in the composition can negatively affect the quality of the polymer, while it remains resistant to heat, but its strength is reduced, and its ability to resist chemicals and water is preserved . If not enough hardener is added, the product may be sticky due to unbound resin.

Before diluting epoxy resin, you need to understand that excess free hardener is released on the surface of the polymer during operation. To obtain different compounds, hardening components and resin are used in different proportions; this can be found in the instructions. If we are talking about a modern compound, then the ratio most often looks like this: 1 to 2 or 1 to 1.

Today there is an opinion that when using a hardener in volume, more polymerization will occur faster. This thought can be considered a delusion. The simplest way to speed up the process is to increase the temperature of the reacting mixture.

If you want to speed up the process three times, then the temperature should be increased by 10 °C. If you are thinking about the question of how to dilute epoxy resin, you should know that today there are special compounds that contain curing accelerators. You can also find epoxy compounds on sale that harden when low temperature. The type of hardener and the temperature of the mixture are the main factors that influence the rate of polymerization.

Dilution of epoxy resin: compositions with different polymerization temperatures

Epoxy resin can cure at temperatures ranging from -10 to +200 °C, everything will depend on the type of composition used. Today, hot and cold curing resins are known. Cold hardener and epoxy resin are the most commonly used in everyday life. Such a composition can also be found in production conditions with low power, as well as where heat treatment is unacceptable.

To obtain high-strength products that will be able to withstand high loads and temperatures, as well as exposure to chemicals, hot-type curing components are used. During hot polymerization, a dense network of molecules is formed. There are also compounds and their oxides that can polymerize into sea ​​water and in humid environments.

Scope of application

Epoxy materials are widespread today all over the world; they have been known since the middle of the last century. The nature of the use of these materials in recent years has undergone significant changes, but the use remains traditional in several areas, among them:

• impregnation of fiberglass and fiberglass;
• waterproofing coating;
• creation of chemically resistant coatings;
• production of transparent solid material for fiberglass products.

Epoxy resin, the use of which is quite common today, can act as an impregnating agent for gluing parts in electrical engineering, automotive, aviation, radio electronics and industry. In this case, the composition is used in the production of fiberglass in machine and shipbuilding, construction, and in workshops for the repair of car body parts and boat hulls.

Work with epoxy resin is carried out where there is a need to waterproof walls and floors basements and swimming pools. Using epoxy resin, you can make materials and paints for exterior and interior decoration buildings, as well as impregnation, which will provide waterproofing of porous materials and their increased strength, among them wood and concrete should be highlighted.

For reference

Epoxy resin can form the basis of a transparent solid material, which is made by pouring into a mold. At the next stage, the products are processed mechanically, such as grinding and cutting. Used for fiberglass products in design work, electronics industry, construction and household.

Working with epoxy: surface preparation

Working with epoxy resin requires surface preparation before applying the composition. Only then will it be possible to achieve high-quality adhesion. Therefore, before diluting epoxy resin, first prepare the surface. To begin with, the base is degreased. There should be no traces of petroleum products and fat on the surface. The surface is cleaned using solvents or effective detergents. It is important to make sure there is no gloss.

The top layer is removed by grinding. Small surfaces must be prepared manually using sandpaper. Impressive bases are processed grinding machines, and the resulting dust should be removed with a vacuum cleaner. When making fiberglass or layer-by-layer laying of varnishes and paints, each subsequent coating must be applied on the previous layer, which is not completely hardened and still sticky.

If the technology and requirements for finished product assume, then the bottom layer, which serves as a substrate, should be sprinkled with fine sand. Once cured, excess sand will need to be removed and a new coat of epoxy applied.

Preparing a large volume of epoxy resin

If you don't know specific properties epoxy resin, you may encounter problems when producing the material in large quantities. As the volume of epoxy increases, more heat is generated. When boiling, the resin will foam and turn cloudy white. This composition cannot be considered suitable for use. Thinners and solvents can be added to the resin to reduce viscosity. Even a small concentration of them can cause a decrease in the strength and heat resistance of the product. The consequence is the sweating of the diluent from the polymer, which leads to a deterioration in the quality of the material.

Epoxy resins and hardeners must not contain water. If this happens, the composition will become cloudy and lose its properties. Today, water-borne epoxy is produced. Such compositions are diluted to achieve dispersion with distilled water. Two-component epoxy resin must be mixed with a plasticizer. The resulting mixture is heated slowly, which is true if DBP is used. When using DEG-1, the composition must be mixed.

For thorough mixing, use a special attachment on a drill or construction mixer. The proportions of resin and plasticizer are selected depending on the required plasticity, but most often the proportion of plasticizer varies from 5 to 10%. A hardener is added to the mixture. The resin is cooled to +30 °C to prevent boiling. The standard proportion of resin to hardener is 1 to 10. To achieve uniform dissolution of the hardener, mixing should be ensured. Otherwise, the composition will turn out to be heterogeneous, and subsequently it will sweat.

Resin Crafts

Quite often, craftsmen make crafts from epoxy resin. This work may be accompanied by certain difficulties. The product should be transparent and there should be no air bubbles inside it. Curing should be uniform in thickness and on the surface. If the thickness is more than 2 mm, then the material is applied in layers after primary polymerization. The resin can be poured into molds. In order for the product to separate, the mold is lubricated with technical petroleum jelly or fat.

A dye for epoxy resin will give the product any color. After completion of the work, the product is kept at a temperature slightly above room temperature. After 3 hours, primary polymerization will occur, curing until sticking, after which the product must be heated to accelerate the curing process for 6 hours. If you decide to make crafts from epoxy resin, then it is quite possible that you will not be able to use a special oven.

At room temperature, polymerization will last 2 weeks. If triethylenetetramine is added to the ingredients, the surface may remain sticky. The cast product must subsequently be processed mechanically. Domestic epoxy resin is not so suitable for casting massive products, because it is characterized by uneven curing of the thickness.

Adding color to epoxy resin

A dye for epoxy resin will allow you to get a composition colored in specific color. In order to ensure even distribution of pigment, manufacturers use dozens of surfactants. Pigmentation can reduce the transparency of the resin, sometimes it changes color and the resin darkens. The addition of pigment should be done before the catalyst, but after the addition of wax.

Technical characteristics of epoxy resin using the example of ED-20 grade composition

Epoxy resin, the characteristics of which will be listed below, is a honey-like liquid of a yellowish color that is easily painted. Density at 20 °C external environment The limit is 1.16-1.25 kg/m3. Tensile strength is 40-90 MPa. Flexural strength is equivalent to 80-140 MPa. Compressive strength is 100-200 MPa.

The polymerization temperature is 20 °C and above. If you are interested in epoxy resin, the proportions of the mixture when combined with a hardener should interest you. The latter should be used in a volume of 7 parts, while the resin is added in an amount of 1 part. The polymerization time of the composition is 1.5 hours. Water absorption in 24 hours is equal to the limit of 0.01-0.1%. Heat resistance varies from 55 to 170 °C. Impact strength is 5-25 kJ/m2.

Basic properties of epoxy resin

Before deciding where to buy epoxy resin, you should know its basic properties. Among others, low resistance to cracking should be highlighted, as well as more impressive toxicity compared to acrylic resins. The properties of epoxy resin indicate that the composition has a high viscosity and should be used in conjunction with solvents. To reduce the viscosity of the resin, you can heat the mixture or add a solvent to it. In both cases the resin will become more fluid. It can be applied with a roller or brush, it will quickly saturate the fiberglass and penetrate porous surfaces, such as wood.

Conclusion

Quite often, consumers wonder where to buy epoxy resin. Today, this material is offered by many companies, among others, the composite supermarket “Carbo”, which is located in Moscow at the address: Volgogradsky Prospekt, 42, should be highlighted.