The ability to assemble pipelines yourself is a definite plus of polypropylene products. Using convenient and lightweight material, you can build a sewer system yourself, repair and modernize the water supply system.

The main thing is to understand the specifics of connecting prefabricated elements to each other. Agree, this is an important part of the work, responsible for the tightness of the highway and its trouble-free operation.

We offer you detailed information on how poly soldering is performed. propylene pipes, what equipment is used in the work, and also lists the most common mistakes of novice welders.

The information we offer will help you build trouble-free communications. For clarity, the article is supplemented with graphic applications and a video guide.

The soldering process is carried out due to the pronounced thermoplastic properties of the material. Polypropylene softens when heated - it acquires a state similar to plasticine.

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This is what a soldering iron (“iron”) for polypropylene pipes looks like. Simple electrical device, semi-automatic, thanks to which plastic soldering is done

To be completed butt welding soldering machine designs differ increased complexity. Typically, such equipment contains not only a heating element, but also a system for centering the parts being welded.

As a rule, direct welding equipment, like the technology itself, is rarely used in the domestic sphere. Priority of use is industry.

A more complex device, with the help of which precise alignment of the parts to be welded is carried out with the further process of heating and soldering. Used with direct welding technology

In addition to soldering irons, the master will also need:

• scissors - ;
• construction tape;
• bench square;
• shaver for pipes with reinforcement;
• marker or pencil;
• surface degreasing agent.

Since the work is performed on high-temperature equipment, you should definitely wear thick work gloves.

Polypropylene Welding Procedure

Important warning! Welding work polymer materials must be carried out in conditions of good ventilation of the room. When polymers are heated and melted, toxic substances are released, which in a certain concentration have a serious impact on human health.

The procedure for welding polypropylene is simple, but it requires precision and accuracy in work. You should also avoid common mistakes, such as insufficient or excessive heating

The first thing you need to do is prepare for work:

1. Install blanks of the required diameter on the heater plateau.
2. Set the regulator to 260ºС.
3. Prepare the mating parts - mark, chamfer, degrease.
4. Turn on the soldering station.
5. Wait for dialing operating temperature– turn on the green indicator.

Place the mating parts (pipe - coupling) on ​​the blanks at the same time soldering station. In this case, the polypropylene pipe is inserted into the internal area of ​​one blank, and the coupling (or socket of the shaped part) onto the outer surface of the other blank.

Typically, the ends of the pipe are inserted along the border of the previously marked line, and the coupling is pushed in until it stops. When keeping polypropylene parts on heated blanks, you should remember important nuance technology – holding time.

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Conclusions and useful video on the topic

There is always something to learn from professionals. You can see how to work with polypropylene in the following video:

Installing polymer pipelines by hot soldering is a convenient and popular technique. It is successfully used in the installation of communications, including at the household level.

People without extensive experience can use this welding method. The main thing is to correctly understand the technology and ensure its execution exactly. A technological equipment can be bought or rented.

Do you have soldering experience? polypropylene pipes? Please share information with our readers. You can leave comments and ask questions on the topic in the form below.

Plastic plumbing has come into our everyday life for a long time. An invariable attribute of the repair of the Soviet housing stock, along with metal-plastic windows, the water supply system was made of polypropylene pipes.

Advantages polypropylene water pipe before steel pipes are obvious:

• Cheapness and wide selection of materials;
• Simplicity of work on marking and assembling the most intricate and complex options pipe routing;
• Environmental friendliness, resistance of the material to corrosion and salt deposits on the walls of polypropylene communications.

Those who have encountered the tedious and time-consuming procedure of installing water pipes from metal pipes, can be appreciated simple technique connecting plastic using a special soldering iron for polypropylene pipes.

If the time has come to renovate the apartment, the problem of replacing the water supply with plastic communications, depending on the availability of desire, money and free time, can be solved:

• Hiring a craftsman and a friend who has experience working with a device for soldering propylene pipes, who can help assemble the marked and cut pieces into a single whole using a soldering iron plastic pipes;
• Transferring the issue of turnkey repairs to a team of repairmen without any desire to understand the intricacies of assembling and soldering plastic components;
• Doing all the work yourself.

The simplicity of assembling the soldering of plastic is so captivating that it is difficult to resist the temptation and solve the problem of plumbing in no other way than to choose and buy a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes.

The amount of money spent on purchasing the tool will be less than the cost of the specialist’s services, but provided that you really understand how to choose a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes. Essentially, the soldering iron for propylene parts and connecting fittings is a heating element with thermomechanical or electrical system heating control and indication. Two nozzles are mounted on the heater, allowing you to simultaneously heat the outer surface of the pipe and inner surface fitting. Heating lasts on average about 5 s, the parts are connected with slight manual pressure to set and form a strong connection within 2-3 s. If parts are overheated or connected lopsidedly, some of the molten plastic may get inside the pipe, and as a result, the flow area decreases.

Important ! Doing most of the soldering and assembly work, you are able to personally control the quality of soldering connections of polypropylene pipes.

For innovators and DIY enthusiasts, you can assemble a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes with your own hands. The strength and durability of the soldering depends on the perfection of the soldering iron and how high-quality the polypropylene pipes are.

What is good about a DIY soldering iron?

The operating principle of the soldering iron is simple and uses the principle of adhesion of the soldered surfaces of polypropylene parts heated to the softening temperature. There is not always a need to re-wire or re-solder half of the water supply wiring in the house. Sometimes you need to work with a soldering iron to make two or three connections. In this case, a homemade, do-it-yourself mini-soldering iron for polypropylene pipes from a handy heater can help out.

For a person with experience working with electrical wiring and using plumbing skills, making a small amateur version of a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes is a matter of two hours.

As a rule, water pipes laid in channels and hidden from prying eyes by screens and decor, so you don’t have to worry about beauty and aesthetic appearance. Another thing is important - incorrect temperature adjustment and overheating of the pipe or fitting material, even under slight force, will lead to defects. In soldering, the first and main issue remains the quality of the connection of parts.

If, when working with a homemade soldering iron, you may fall slightly short of world standards appearance- no problem, for amateur cases this is allowed.

To assemble a homemade propylene pipe soldering iron you will need:

• Heating element - sole of conventional electric iron, preferably in the form of a closed aluminum block with a thermostat and an electrical cord with a plug;
• soldering iron attachments for polypropylene pipes and fittings of the required size for your pipes;
• nickel-plated M8 bolt-nut for attaching nozzles to the heater;
• digital multimeter with external thermocouple thermometer;
• a clamp or other fastening that allows you to securely fix the soldering iron on a utility surface.

In addition to temperature, the speed or power of heating the surface of the parts being joined is important. If you heat a polypropylene fitting or pipe for a long enough time, the parts will lose their shape and geometric dimensions under the influence of temperature.

Therefore, to quickly melt a surface with a diameter of 15-30 mm, a power of 700 - 900 W is required, which approximately corresponds to maximum power iron heater.

We assemble a homemade product for propylene couplings:

1. At a distance of 30-40 m from the nose of the aluminum sole, we drill through hole with a diameter of 8 mm and using a screw and nut we connect the nozzles for the pipe and fitting to the base of the heater;
2. We install the iron handle on the heater sole so that it does not limit access to the attached attachments;
3. We connect the wiring to the contacts of the iron heater;
4. We plug it into the network and use a multimeter, digital thermometer and the regulator on the iron set the temperature to 265 o C.

We use a clamp to fix a homemade soldering iron of polypropylene pipes, which will allow you to solder parts yourself, without an assistant; the handle can also be made to suit you for the greatest convenience and minimal risk of getting burned.

Which soldering iron is better for polypropylene pipes

It has always been believed that the best tool is a professional option, designed for long-term use and with high parameters for soldering propylene pipes. Professional soldering iron for polyethylene pipes assumes:

• Use of materials that are resistant to prolonged heating for attachments, with high thermal conductivity, not sticking to the heated surface of the polypropylene part; as a rule, brass or copper nozzles coated with Teflon or carbon are used;
• Easy and convenient change of nozzles on the heater flange; the kit includes a set for the main pipe sizes - from 16 to 160 mm;
• The metallized surface of the nozzles gives high speed heating polypropylene parts;
• The presence of a heater power supply stabilizer and automatic temperature regulation allows you to keep the soldering iron hot for as long as desired without the risk of failure of the heating element.

Required attributes professional models soldering irons are equipped with an easily removable stand and a case for storing and carrying the device with accessories.

For your information! For original models of soldering irons, unlike fakes, markings and information about the model are applied typographically to the body or to a metal substrate plate tightly sealed into the plastic. On fakes, the marking is pasted in the form of a metallized label and is easily separated from the soldering iron body.

For example, the widely known version of the soldering iron for polypropylene pipes is dytron or ditron - as you like. He is highly praised for his reliability and ease of use, unpretentiousness and robust construction. When soldering propylene parts time goes by for seconds, you have to quickly set up, drop, or even throw the gun on the stand, and this has virtually no effect on its performance. There are three models in the DYTRON line:

• Power 850 W, the most popular in apartment renovation, used for polypropylene pipes with a diameter of up to 36 mm;
• Power 1200 W - for polypropylene pipes with a diameter of up to 160 mm;
• With a rod-shaped heater with a power of 650 W.

The soldering iron comes with a key for changing tips, which can be from 3 to 12 in a set, scissors for cutting polypropylene pipes, a building level, gloves and a stand. With all the advantages, it is worth noting one negative point- clearly overpriced soldering iron.

Important ! Such devices are designed for many hours of operation, but in any case, they require careful care. non-stick coating on the nozzles. Teflon is very sensitive to scratches and chips, so you should not use hard or metal objects other than rags for cleaning.

But even specialists involved in soldering water pipes do not always strive to buy a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes in an expensive professional version. Many of the budget models, assembled from Chinese or Turkish components, work just as well as branded models.

Let’s take, for example, a typical repairman’s workhorse—the Soyuz soldering iron for polypropylene pipes:

• High heater power - up to 2 kW;
• The kit includes six standard nozzles with a diameter from 20 to 63 mm;
• In addition, the soldering iron is equipped with a hexagon wrench for changing the working tool, a stand for the device and a case.

The length of the power cord is only 130 cm, which is clearly not enough for work. But this size is typical for budget models, while professional soldering irons have a full 2.5-3.5 m. The Soyuz is equipped with a two-mode push-button heating control system and two color indicators - green and red, the latter lights up when the heating is turned on automatically.

The soldering iron is equipped with everything necessary for successful soldering of polypropylene pipes, so it’s difficult to say whether it’s worth overpaying for additional accessories, as in the case expensive models soldering irons

Pipes and fittings made of polypropylene can be said to be in trend today. They are used for indoor plumbing and heating wiring and networks inside houses and apartments. The popularity of this material is primarily due to the ease of working with it. Unlike metal pipes, they do not need to be bent with a pipe bender, threaded, or welded. All the labor intensity of this profession became a thing of the past with the advent of such material as polypropylene.
The main tool for working with polypropylene products is an electric soldering iron or iron. In the factory kit it is equipped with nozzle sleeves for soldering pipes and fittings of standard diameters. They can also be purchased separately. But there are times when, for some reason, a factory soldering iron is not available and there is no way to buy it, and of all the parts, only welding attachments are available. This is where a homemade plumbing soldering iron comes in handy.

This homemade product is one of those “blow, spit, and do the job.” You can literally assemble it on your knees from an old iron and a wooden block. With such a homemade heater you will definitely save the situation and cope with soldering polypropylene pipes. And now we’ll show you how to do it.

What you need to assemble a soldering iron

• An old iron with a working heating sole;
• Wooden block, approximate cross-section 40x50 mm, length 40-50 cm;
• Four self-tapping screws, 3x14-16 mm;
• Sleeve attachments for a plumbing soldering iron with a clamping bolt;
• Power cable with plug;
• Electrical tape, 45 mm self-tapping screws.

The tools you need to have are: a drill or screwdriver with a Phillips head for self-tapping screws, drills with a diameter of 6-8 mm, grinding machine or sandpaper, paint knife, pliers and hammer.

Assembling a homemade soldering iron for polypropylene pipes

First of all, let's sort it out household iron, disconnecting the sole from the thermostats. We won't need the rest of the iron anymore.

Next we prepare wooden block. If necessary, it can be sawed, planed, or simply cleaned on an emery wheel, as the author of the homemade product did (photo).

To secure the bar, we drill several holes on the sole of the iron, in an area free from the heating element. The diameter of the drill should be less than the width of the screw head.

We insert the block adjusted to its cross-section into the groove of the sole and attach it to several screws using a screwdriver and a Phillips bit.

There are bolts at the end of the heater contact group. We drill slot holes for them on both sides of the block, and unfold the contacts with pliers to connect them.

We press the contact plates with several self-tapping screws - press washers.

Not far from the end of the sole, we drill a hole for the clamping bolt for the sleeves. Now you can attach several paired welding attachments. We place them on the clamping bolt and tighten them with a hex wrench.

All that remains is to connect the power cable to the contact group, and wrap the contact area on the handle with electrical tape.

The soldering iron is ready for use. Such a device can be used for soldering polypropylene pipes and fittings, making plumbing or heating wiring.

Conclusion

Despite the simplicity of the design, it cannot be considered completely modified. It does not have a heating thermostat with automatic protection. The ergonomics of the tool also leaves much to be desired, because such a device must stand steadily on its edge during operation. However this homemade apparatus serves as proof that if desired, even specialized tool can be assembled from scrap parts.

Polypropylene pipes are intended mainly for organizing water supply and heating in non-fire hazardous areas. Such a pipeline is easy and quick to install and lasts about 50 years, but it has a significant drawback: when heated, polypropylene softens and is easily deformed. This parameter is important for heating and hot water supply systems, since they undergo dynamic temperature changes, as a result of which plastic pipes change their design position.

Such phenomena are absent when operating a water supply system for cold water. Based on the above, reinforced polypropylene pipes are used for hot water supply. Strengthening of plastic occurs through the use of aluminum foil, fiberglass or increasing the thickness of the walls of the product. Aluminum integrated into polypropylene, which can be placed inside the thickness of the plastic (non-stripping pipe) or outside (stripping pipe), significantly reduces the linear expansion of the pipeline.

Fiberglass gives a similar effect, which allows this type of pipeline to be used for heating. A pipe with thicker walls is used for hot water.

Basic rules for soldering polypropylene pipes

To obtain quality indicators such as the tightness of the welded assembly, maintaining the internal diameter at the junction of parts, aesthetic appearance, etc., the following rules must be taken into account.

The connection area must be dry and free of dirt

Often, in practice, a situation arises when you need to solder a fitting into an existing plastic wiring. Although the pipeline is equipped with a common tap, due to wear and tear, it cannot fully fulfill its purpose. In such situations, water flow instead of connection is inevitable. To eliminate the leak while soldering the elements, you can take the following steps:

Step 1. Shut off the general water supply valve, drain the remaining water into the sewer through the mixer, cut off the pipeline at the junction taking into account the immersion depth, drain the water, drain the area and weld the components. In this case, it is advisable to replace the faulty shut-off valve.

Step 2. You can temporarily stop the flow of liquid by displacing or draining the water column from the pipeline, if the water supply stops for some time (30 seconds is enough). If the leak cannot be stopped, then the internal cavity of the water pipe is sealed with bread pulp, and after welding it is removed through the nearest mixer, but before that, the filter is unscrewed from its drain tube. It is not recommended to use it as a stopper toilet paper, it doesn't come out of the pipeline well.

Do not overheat the connections

Due to excessive overheating, the cross-section of the pipeline decreases, and accordingly the intensity of the water or coolant supply decreases. Overheating can occur as a result of non-compliance with the welding temperature and the holding time of the parts in the nozzle. Table 1 presents data on obtaining a high-quality seam for some pipe sizes.

The soldering iron nozzle must be securely fixed

A loose cue ball while working with parts damages the heating surface of the soldering iron and contributes to the formation of misaligned joints.

After connecting the elements, do not rotate or move them more than 5 degrees

To obtain uniform diffusion, it is advisable after joining not to rotate or align the welded elements during the hardening time of the seam.

The movement of the workpiece in the cue ball must be straight

Other movements may reduce the strength of the seam. The junction will, of course, withstand the water pressure in the central line, which is usually in the range of 2 - 3 bar, but at nominal pressure (10, 20, 25 bar), it will probably allow liquid to pass through.

Features of the stripping pipe connection

Before connecting the stripping pipe, you need to remove the foil layer from it with a special shavings (shaver) to the size of the soldering depth. In the absence of a shaver, the reinforcing layer is carefully cut off with a stationery knife evenly over the entire area where the pipe is immersed in the fitting. This method looks unprofessional, but when carefully removed it does not reduce the outer diameter of the polypropylene.

What is needed for soldering

To join pipes and transition elements, you will need the following tools:

• set for soldering pipes (soldering iron, 20 mm nozzle, stand);
• scissors for plastic pipes;
• a simple pencil;
• pipe lever wrenches;
• roulette.

Do-it-yourself soldering of polypropylene pipes using an example

Let's look at the soldering technique and the sequence of installation of additional shut-off valves and a pressure gauge into the existing plumbing system.

These elements participate in the apartment’s backup water supply circuit (water storage tank with pump).

The water tap is installed to switch the water supply position from the central line to the reserve position. The pressure gauge signals the appearance of water in the riser. The unit is quite difficult to integrate into the existing wiring due to limited space when connecting pipes by soldering.

To create such a unit, which is made of polypropylene pipes and transitions with a cross-section of 20 mm, the following material is needed:

1. Angle at 45 degrees. in the amount of 2 pcs.
2. Angle at 90 degrees. -1 pc.
3. Tee - 2 pcs.
4. Connecting coupling - 1 pc.
5. Pipe for cold water - 1 meter.
6. Coupling, internal thread (MRV) 1/2 inch.
7. Bronze transition with external thread 1/2" and internal - 3/8"".
8. Pressure gauge 10 bar.
9. Walk-through tap.
10. Tow and FUM tape.

Tool for soldering polypropylene pipes.

Work order

Using tow and FUM tape, ensure a tight connection between the pressure gauge, bronze adapter and MRE.

On a soldering iron with a nozzle, set the temperature to 250-260 degrees and turn it on to heat.

After the cue ball heats up, immediately lean the tee against the convex part, and the pipe against the other, with the recess, and begin to feed the parts linearly until it stops.

Mentally count down 7 seconds. During this time, the surface of the parts should melt evenly. At the seventh second, pull the parts out of the nozzle and accurately insert each other into each other until it stops. Hold in this position for four seconds, this is the time when the soldering area remains plastic. Therefore, it is possible to rotate the parts being welded no more than five degrees only in this range.

From the soldered tee, mark a distance of 13 mm on the pipe.

This size corresponds to the depth of immersion of the pipe into the fitting.

Use scissors to cut the pipe according to the mark.

Solder the corner and the pass-through valve so that it is placed towards the water supply horizontal plane at an angle of about 45 degrees.

Connect the other end of the pass-through valve to a tee, as shown in photo 9.

To the tee, which is located closer to the meter, weld a tube with a 90-degree angle for the pressure sensor.

At the wiring, in the approximate places where parts are soldered, cut the pipes and drain the residual water.

Lean the assembled unit against the installation site and calculate the joining of pipes.

Use scissors to remove excess elements.

We solder a coupling onto one end of the removed element, which will be connected back to the pipeline, consisting of a pipe and two 90-degree angles. We weld the other part at a certain angle into the tee.

We are calculating how the pipeline will be connected to another section. Based on these data, we assemble a unit from two angles at 45 degrees and pipes. We weld it into the other side of the workpiece tee.

We first connect the resulting product to a pipe located near the sewer.

Then with a flow meter.

Lastly with the mixer pipe and tank supply line.

This sequence is due to the ability to use a soldering iron in places that can be moved after joining adjacent nodes.

We determine the length of the pipe for the pressure gauge, solder it into the MVR and put on the fastener. We apply the resulting product to the corner and mark the location of the fastening on the wall. We remove the pressure gauge and mount it to the wall.

We solder the corner and pressure sensor. We check the tightness of the entire system.

Sometimes soldering polypropylene pipes with your own hands cannot be done by one worker due to inconvenient placement of parts. In this case, it is advisable to solder such nodes together.

Nowadays, polymer channels are increasingly used when creating various pipelines. They have many advantages over their metal counterparts. Special attention deserve polymer pipes. The price per 1 meter of these structures is significantly lower than that of metal analogues. Their distinctive feature is convenient installation. Such pipe structures are soldered using

In this article we will analyze the structure of the mentioned device, list the most popular manufacturers of equipment and tell you how to eliminate the most common ones with your own hands. typical breakdown. You will also have the opportunity to watch photos and videos on the topic of this material.

Device structure

Most soldering machines have approximately the same design. The differences lie only in the shape and methods of installing special attachments.

Any soldering iron for polypropylene pipes consists of:

• housings and handles;
• thermostat;
• heating element placed in a metal casing;
• replaceable nozzles coated with Teflon.

In terms of their method of operation, the devices in question are much like a regular iron.

Some experts call these devices that way. The operation of the device is quite simple. The heating element increases the temperature of the stove inside which it is located. From it, heat is transferred to the nozzles. It is these heating elements that help soften the polymer to the desired consistency.

The thermostat allows you to control the heating process. This part is responsible for supporting the necessary temperature regime, preventing overheating of the installed nozzles. If the thermostat is faulty, it will be difficult to operate the device. Heating elements may overheat greatly. This will negatively affect the duration of their operation. Metal part The slabs will begin to melt over time. As a result, the device will become unusable.

It is important to choose a soldering machine equipped with a high-quality thermostat. In cheap models, this element is unstable. This leads to uneven heating of polypropylene structures. The temperature level may be excessively high or, conversely, low.

Note that for experienced specialists such a defect is not critical. At the same time, beginners will be able to effectively complete the task only with the use of an absolutely working soldering iron. This is due to the fact that professionals intuitively work with the device, and thanks to their skills they will be able to minimize the consequences of using an unstable device.

Based on what was written above, a simple conclusion is drawn - it is better to use high-quality and reliable equipment than to tinker with a poorly functioning soldering iron. In this case, it is advisable to use equipment with a thermostat that allows smooth temperature control.

Typical failure: the soldering machine does not heat up

Let's sort it out real case repair of the RSP-2a-Pm device from the Czech company Wavin ekoplastik. The problem was this: the device was heating up, but did not reach the required temperature. At the same time, during operation, the sound of sparking contacts arose inside the device. The device was used intensively for a year.

The repair of the device began with its disassembly. Next it was necessary to establish the cause of the malfunction. First the control board was checked. Next, the soldering iron was turned on and the voltage indicator at the output of the mentioned circuit was determined.

When performing the test, you do not need to wait until the tip is completely warmed up. A similar procedure would be appropriate when testing electronics. In our example, it was only necessary to determine the cause of the breakdown. After checking the board, it would be necessary to move on to diagnosing the heating element.

The soldering machine in question was switched on. The heating indicators lit up clearly. It was assumed that the problem lies in the heating element circuits. To accurately identify the breakdown, it was necessary to disassemble the protective grille of the heating element.

It was decided to check the thermostat screwed to the heater. The main purpose of this component is additional protection. The operation of the device was completely controlled electronically. The thermostat was installed in order to avoid uncontrollability of the heating element in case of damage to the thyristor.

If the maximum permissible temperature is reached, the bimetallic contacts of the safety device will open and the main heating component will stop operating. In a particular case, the mentioned elements burned. As a result, contact opening began to occur at temperatures below the limit. That's what it was main reason constant underheating of the device.

To eliminate this problem, it was possible to repair the thermostat. But this task is very complex and time-consuming. Replacing the element in question was not feasible due to the lack of spare parts.

As a result, the repairman decided to remove the thermostat from the circuit and connect it directly. To do this, the element was disconnected from the heating element contact. Then a new terminal, purchased in a store, was crimped onto another wire, blue. To solve this problem, it is possible to use insulated terminals.

Try to use exclusively heat-resistant cambrics. They must withstand high temperatures.

The terminals are crimped using special pliers. If worst comes to worst, you can also use pliers. The main thing is that the procedure is performed efficiently and reliably. After its implementation, the cable in the terminal must be motionless.

After completing the procedure for turning off the thermostat, it was necessary to assemble the device. During its implementation, damage to the wire clamp was discovered. To eliminate this damage, a regular plastic clamp was used. After fixing the cables, the excess parts of the plastic were cut off.

Next, the assembly of the device was completed. After this, the device was tested for serviceability. The soldering iron worked like clockwork again. You can use the information from this article for repairs. various models soldering irons

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