Arbolite blocks– the material is not capricious, but peculiar. And if the task is to lay them with your own hands, then there are usually no problems with this process. The only question private developers ask is whether it is necessary to reinforce wood concrete blocks. It is impossible to answer it unequivocally - yes, this is a necessity, or no, it is not necessary. Everything will depend on the design of the building.

What is wood concrete and its characteristics

Before understanding the reinforcement of wood concrete masonry, it is necessary to indicate that this wall material It is made of lightweight concrete, which uses wood chips as a filler. Of all materials with organic fillers, it is the most durable with excellent thermal insulation qualities.

Its outer surfaces have a porous structure, which guarantees good adhesion properties of the blocks. But at the same time, the pores are filled with a large amount of masonry mortar, which leads to high consumption. But this has its own advantage - the ability to make the seam between the blocks thin, which ensures appearance wall like monolithic structure. In addition, the seam is a cold bridge, so the thinner it is, the better.

In addition, the solution that gets into the porous structure of the block surface provides high strength to the entire wall structure. In this regard, materials from smooth surface wood concrete is inferior. Therefore, developers may have doubts whether it is worthwhile to reinforce the masonry with wood concrete. Everything will depend on the design of the building being constructed, its purpose and operating conditions. But, as practice shows, any structures erected from block materials must be reinforced. This applies to both the masonry and the armored belt laid along the top.

How is reinforcement carried out?

Let's start with the fact that three types of solutions can be used for laying arbolite blocks:

1. Cement-sand mixture is a bright representative of masonry mortars. Today this material is represented on the market by sand concrete. different brands, although making it with your own hands in a concrete mixer or in a trough is not a problem. The main thing is to accurately maintain the proportions of the ingredients, where the cement-sand ratio is 1:3.
2. Perlite mixtures or otherwise “warm”. Instead of sand, perlite powder is poured into them - this is a finely dispersed volcanic rock. Perlite in the solution acts not only as a filler, but also as insulation.
3. Adhesive composition for cellular concrete. This is the most ideal option masonry mortar for wood concrete.

So, the reinforcement of wood concrete begins immediately with the first row of stacked blocks. This is a strict requirement. For this, a standard welded reinforcing mesh made of steel wire with a diameter of at least 2.5 mm with cells of at least 50x50 mm is used. This mesh is sold in rolls 1.5 m wide and up to 25 m long. This is convenient because the roll can be unrolled and cut into the required number of pieces of the required length and width, which will ensure seamless laying of the mesh. If you have to join sections, and this will certainly be present at the joints of external and internal walls, then the connection is made by overlapping within 15 cm with wire ligation in three or four places.

The process of laying the mesh is standard, where there is one requirement - it must be located in the body of the masonry mortar. Therefore, in advance waterproofed foundation masonry mortar 10-12 mm thick is applied. A reinforcing mesh is placed on it with a slight recess into the finished mixture. There is another option, when the solution is applied in a layer of 5-6 mm, then a mesh is laid, with another layer of the mixture 5-6 mm on top. After which the laying of wood concrete begins.

The second option is much better. It allows laying to be carried out in sections. That is, the mesh laid on the masonry mortar may not be immediately covered top layer. And this makes it possible not to rush. The process can be carried out differently. The laid section of mesh is rolled up. The solution is applied to the foundation, for example, 3 m along. The mesh is unrolled to this size, an additional layer is applied on top and the laying is carried out. The same goes for the next three meters.

The masonry of arbolite blocks must be reinforced every 3 rows. If a one-story building is being constructed, then laying the reinforcing mesh can be done less frequently - every 5-6 rows.

Armopoyas

Is an armored belt necessary in a house made of wood concrete? It is absolutely necessary, especially if it concerns a multi-storey building. It is poured into the basement, interfloor and attic floors. It is not necessary to do this in the first floor if, according to calculations, the foundation of the building can withstand all the necessary loads. At this point, the armored belt is poured if the foundation structure is not a monolith, that is, assembled from blocks.

The whole point is that reinforced belt designed mainly to contain the loads coming from shrinkage of the house. It evenly distributes these loads along the entire perimeter of the building, preventing the walls from cracking.

The armored belt for wood concrete can be filled in two ways:

1. Formwork with a width equal to the width of the wall is installed around the entire perimeter. The height is determined by calculations. The formwork is attached to the foundation or walls of the building with long screws, nails or other fasteners.
2. Special U-shaped wood concrete blocks are used.

Formwork reinforcement method

This is a traditional technology with the installation of formwork made of boards or other flat materials. The main requirement is the strength of the structure, which should not move to the sides when pouring concrete. Therefore, the shields are fastened with through pins or wooden crossbars.

An important element of the armored belt of a wood concrete house is a reinforcing frame made of steel reinforcement. Essentially, these are two gratings with cells 20x20 cm, assembled from reinforcement with a diameter of 8-10 mm. They are installed vertically and connected to each other in volumetric design(cage) with crossbars made of reinforcement with a diameter of 6-8 mm. All connections are made using binding wire.

Reinforcing steel frame placed on stands so that it is in the body of the armored belt. Therefore, its dimensions should be less space, formed by the elements of the formwork and the foundation plane. Stones, pieces of concrete blocks, and pieces of metal profiles can be used as stands.

The last stage is pouring concrete mortar, made according to the recipe: cement-sand-crushed stone in a ratio of 1:2:2. Concrete must be poured simultaneously without long breaks between poured batches - no more than 2-3 hours. The solution must be vibrated to remove air that enters the mixture during the kneading process. And air is the pores inside the armored belt, which lead to a decrease in the strength characteristics of the structure.

The formwork can be removed after two to three days. But you can load the armored belt in 15 days, or better yet 28.

These are special blocks in which a longitudinal groove is made. The cross-sectional shape can be rectangular or oval. Concrete mortar must be poured into it with preliminary installation of reinforcement. This method simplifies the above-described procedure using formwork several times. Because U-shaped blocks are laid along the top row of the wall, like standard masonry elements, and act as permanent formwork.

It is important to understand here that a reinforcing frame made of steel reinforcement in the form of a cage or lattice is not used here. Simply, two or three reinforcing bars with a diameter of 12-16 mm are placed along the wall in a groove at a short distance from each other, connected to each other with a knitting wire or not connected at all. The main thing is to lay the rods so that they are in the body of the concrete solution being poured.

There are two important advantages of this method of constructing an armored belt for wood concrete:

1. Ease of work.
2. The result is an insulated belt made of reinforced wood concrete.

The third option for forming an armored belt

With the advent of U-shaped blocks, the need for this technology of pouring a reinforcing belt disappeared. Let's just label it for information.

This will require arbolite blocks of smaller width. For example, the width of a wall block is 300 mm, which means you need a block with a width of 100 or 150 mm. It is impossible to find wall-type material of this size, so the craftsmen simply cut solid blocks to the required dimensions.

The resulting masonry elements with a smaller width were laid on a wall or foundation so that there was an opening between them, where reinforcing bars were laid and concrete mortar was poured. Sometimes they did it in a different way:

• on the front side (external) a block 150 mm wide was laid;
• boards or sheets of flat slabs or sheet materials(plywood, OSB, etc.);
• it turned out to be a kind of formwork, outer side which was already insulated.

Conclusion

So, answering the question whether a house made of wood concrete requires reinforcement, we can answer that this process is one of the important ones. It is with the help of reinforcement of walls and ceilings that it is possible to guarantee uniform shrinkage of the building without the appearance of cracks on the walls. In addition, these structures are often called seismic belts, which is very important in areas with seismic activity.

Arbolit - lightweight concrete with organic filler wood chips (not sawdust or shavings). The material does not overload the foundation, retains heat well, and is suitable for residential and industrial buildings up to three floors high. It is produced in the form of panels, slabs, wall and partition blocks. Building a house with your own hands is relatively easy, even if you have no experience, due to its convenient size and low weight.

Ideal geometry, assuming deviations from standard sizes up to 1 mm, only products manufactured at large enterprises using special equipment have; they are relatively expensive. More often, hand-made stones are purchased for private construction. They are cheaper, but size deviations can reach 3 mm. This disadvantage has to be compensated by making seams with a thickness of 8 to 12 mm.

To avoid cold bridges in the walls, you can make seams using thermal break technology. To do this, before applying the solution to a row of stones, place a 4-5 cm wide strip or tape - jute or foamed propylene. Then strips of masonry mixture are applied on both sides of the tape or lath. There remains empty space between the strips, which is filled with air after installing the next row. The lath, having completed applying the mass, is removed, the tape can be left. Thermal break is required for seams with a thickness of 8 mm or more. If the stones have minimal deviations in size from the standard, then the mixture or glue is distributed thin layer(up to 5 mm). Additional measures There is no need to insulate the seams.

Preparation of masonry mortar

Choice suitable variety made based on the quality of the block geometry. If seams from 8 mm are needed, then it is necessary to minimize heat loss through them. Therefore, various insulating components are added to their composition.

The following types are used for walls made of arbolite blocks:

1. Cement-sand. You can prepare it yourself or buy a ready-made dry mixture. Optimal proportions- for 1 part of cement 3 hours of sand. This option is only valid for stones with ideal geometry. Wide seams inevitably become cold bridges.

2. Perlite. Refers to warm, differs much best indicator to prevent heat loss. You can buy ready-made mixtures of perlite sand and cement, but it is cheaper to make them yourself. For preparation you will need 1 part of cement, 2 parts of ordinary sand and 3 parts of expanded perlite. It is better to prepare the mixture in a concrete mixer: first add perlite, then pour in water. Perlite immediately absorbs all the moisture (takes the form of a dry powder), and when mixed with cement and sand, it begins to release it, so you cannot add water before adding the remaining components.

3. Warm masonry mass with microchips. To prepare it, use a ready-made sand-cement mixture of a grade not lower than M-200 and processed small wood chips. In essence, it turns out to be a monolithic arbolite wall. Microchips can be purchased from block manufacturers. Consumption: 1 bag (180 l) per 2 m3 of solution. Unlike perlite, it does not shrink. Recipe: 1 part cement, 1 hour sand, 2 hours microchips, plasticizer - professional or simple liquid soap.

4. Cement-sand with sawdust (sawdust concrete). Recipe: 1 bucket of cement, 2 buckets of sand, 2 buckets of sawdust, a solution of 150 g of calcium chloride, 15-20 g of liquid soap.

5. Adhesive dry mixtures (assembly adhesives). The permissible layer thickness for them is 2-5 mm. The finished masses are suitable for gluing stones with size deviations of up to 1 mm.

6. Polyurethane foam adhesive for products made of cellular concrete with height deviations of up to 1 mm. Some brands of this product are only suitable for interior walls and partitions. Consumption: 1 bottle 850 ml per 10 m2.

When choosing, take into account that wood concrete almost does not absorb moisture contained in the air, but draws it out of the solution during installation, so the blocks must be moistened abundantly before installation. There is no such problem when using glue.

Step-by-step instructions for laying the first row

1. Mark according to the location diagram doorways and joints between external and internal walls. For this purpose, use arbolite stones (without mortar).
2. Prepare the mass. Apply it to the end in contact with the next product and the top surface.
3. At each wall junction, install two blocks at right angles to each other. For the first row, stones with minimal size deviations are selected. Pull the cords between the corners.
4. Use a level to check the position of the elements.
5. Lay out the first row according to the pattern. Wood concrete is cut with a grinder or circular saw, the level checks the accuracy.
6. The installation of subsequent rows continues no earlier than one day after the completion of the first. If it is necessary to speed up the process, hardeners are added to the solution.

Guide to laying the remaining rows of block walls

1. All subsequent rows begin to be placed from the corners.
2. Wood concrete is laid like brick, in a checkerboard pattern - vertical seams between the blocks different rows should not coincide, the offset is made by half a stone.
3. Every two rows, the mixture in the seams is leveled over the surface of the stones.
4. In every third to fifth row, a reinforcing mesh is laid over the mortar.
5. No more than three rows are laid out per day.
6. An armored belt is made for reinforcement. This is a monolithic reinforced concrete strip on which the floor slabs and rafter system rest. Mounted from special U-shaped blocks with a recess. Reinforcement is placed in the gutter and concrete is poured.
7. The lintels over the openings are reinforced with ready-made reinforced concrete or metal beams. On each side, the lintel must rest on the wall at least 20 cm.

Errors may be associated with the wrong choice of seam thickness and glue, the result is cold bridges.

New, and in this case, forgotten old, wood concrete is returning to the building materials market. As practice has shown, building a house from wood concrete blocks with your own hands is a good prospect for building a strong, warm and reliable private house.

Disadvantages of brick and concrete walls known to everyone wooden houses Not everyone can afford it. An alternative to the above is wood concrete. Containing 80-90% wood chips, combined with a cement binder and modified with chemical additives, wood concrete eliminates the shortcomings and enhances the advantages of wood and concrete.

Wood concrete was created and tested in the middle of the last century, and its production is regulated by GOST 19222-84.

Technologies for the construction of private houses from wood concrete

A house can be built in two ways:

1. Construction from arbolite blocks. In this case, industrially manufactured ready-made wood concrete blocks are used;

Often the decision is made to make wood concrete with your own hands. Before starting work, it is important to make sure that the blocks have gained the strength and hardness necessary for work.

2. Monolithic construction from wood concrete. The use of this technology involves the formation of permanent formwork and subsequent pouring of wood concrete mortar into it.

To build a house from monolithic wood concrete need to study device technology monolithic walls. The remaining stages will be identical to block construction.

In this article, we will focus on a detailed description of the first option.

How to build a house from wood concrete blocks with your own hands

The main stages of work in the form of successive steps from A to Z.

Stage 1. Design of houses made of wood concrete

The development of the project precedes the start of work due to the need for its coordination and approval by the licensing authorities. In addition to the house plan itself, the cottage project contains information about the materials used, places and methods of connecting to communications, electrical and gas supplies, type of foundation, etc. The project makes it possible to further calculate the amount of material and the load it creates.

For your information, the design of a house made of wood concrete is no different from the design of a house made of foam concrete, and therefore a typical project can be used, taking into account the absence of the reinforcing belts necessary for foam blocks.

Stage 2. Selection of material for construction

Before starting construction work, you need to make sure that the wall material is chosen correctly.

Arbolite certainly has a number of advantages. But! Only if it is of high quality and is used for its intended purpose.

You should know that wood concrete is used in the construction of buildings with a height not exceeding 7 meters. (height of self-supporting wall). This makes it attractive when constructing a 2-3-story private house or cottage with an attic. In combination with columns or other structural elements(support pillars) that take on part of the load, more storey construction is allowed.

Which wood concrete is suitable for building a house

To purchase a high-quality block, professionals advise paying attention to the determining factors:

• price. Homemade wood concrete is much cheaper;

• fullness and uniformity of the block. The chips should be of more or less the same fraction, densely packed. The looseness of the block indicates its low compressive and bending strength;

Note: the use of sawdust increases the thermal conductivity of the block. Large chips are not completely saturated. As a result, the adhesion of wood to cement is disrupted and the block loses strength.

• block geometry. GOST allows deviation from given size not exceeding 5-7 mm. The use of a special weight during the manufacturing process allows us to reduce deviations to zero.

Note: the unevenness of the blocks can increase the consumption of masonry mortar by 40%, makes the use of special adhesive mixtures inappropriate, and increases the consumption of plaster when finishing, increases the complexity and duration of work.

• color and impurities. Insertion of impurities or differences in color within the block indicate a violation of the manufacturing and drying processes.

• certificates that will indicate: cement quality, complete chemical composition, test results.

Stage 3. Construction of a foundation for a house made of wood concrete

A distinctive feature of wood concrete is its good bending strength, regardless of the purpose of the block. This gives the block the ability to recover from stress. In practice, this removes restrictions when choosing the type of foundation, which is an integral part of any structure. To a large extent, it is the quality of the foundation that determines the lifespan of the house.

What is the best foundation for a house made of wood concrete?

In practice, any can be used. Most often it is tape or combined.

Foundation technology for an arbolite house:

1. marking for the foundation;
2. removing the soil layer to the required depth;
3. arrangement of sand and crushed stone cushion;
4. compaction (recommended with watering to achieve greater density);
5. installation of formwork;
6. reinforcement;
7. pouring the foundation.
8. waterproofing the foundation strip;
9. backfilling of sand inside the squares formed by the foundation strip followed by compaction;
10. complete waterproofing of the foundation.

Note: during the pouring process, the channels provided for by the project are left for further installation of communications.

Before starting work, you need to decide on the size of the foundation.

• depth of placement. Depends on the type of soil, distance to groundwater, number of storeys of the building. The dependence of the parameters on the type of soil is shown in the table;

• foundation thickness. Depends on the total (static and dynamic) load on it.

Making calculations static load need to take into account:

• materials used in construction (their weight and quantity);
• the presence of a base;
• wall material;
• material and number of floors;
• roofing material used;
• presence of insulation and its type;
• number of windows and doors. Total weight of elements warm circuit. When calculating the weight of the doors, you need to remember that entrance doors usually made of metal, which affects the load they create;
• material for facade cladding;
• materials for interior decoration;
• floor covering and type of flooring.
• calculated weight of furniture (195 kg/sq.m. according to SNiP 2.01.07-85).

In addition, dynamic load is taken into account:

• snow load in the region (see map). For example: the annual snow load for Moscow is 180 kg/sq.m. (according to SNiP 2.01.07-85). By multiplying this number by the roof area we get the total load. The calculations take into account the roof configuration and the resulting result must be multiplied by the coefficient M (0.94).

• wind load is calculated by the formula = House area * (15 x House height + 40);

• soil resistance to pressure exerted on it (according to SNiP 2.02.01-83). According to this standard, the resistance must exceed the pressure on it by 30%. The pressure of a building is calculated by dividing the weight of the building by the area of ​​the foundation (sole).

Note: if the soil type is not determined, the minimum resistance value is used for calculations.

Stage 4. Construction of the basement of a house made of wood concrete

The plinth will better protect the wood concrete block from the influence of water. The recommended plinth height is 500-600 mm (depending on the level of precipitation in the region and the availability drainage system around the house). The base is made of brick or concrete.

Stage 5. Construction of walls from wood concrete

Let us immediately note that the construction of arbolite walls is notable for the fact that it is advisable to use cement-sand mortar. The choice is due to the uneven geometry of the block, which makes it economically unprofitable to use special adhesive solutions used for laying cellular concrete, such as Ceresit CT 21. Increased consumption of the adhesive mixture will increase the budget for building a house.

Consumption cement-sand mortar 1 m3 per 8-10 m3 of wood concrete blocks. The value is approximate, because the geometry of the blocks is not constant, the discrepancy can be from 5 mm to 1.5 cm in width and height.

What to place wood concrete blocks on?

An alternative to the classic solution can be:

1. Perlite mortar for laying wood concrete. Its feature is the ability to increase the thermal insulation of masonry. How to make perlite mortar: perlite is added to the classic mortar (cement, sand, water). The ratio is 1 part cement = 3 parts perlite.

Note. Perlite is volatile, which means you need to work with it in the absence of wind.

2. Sawdust concrete mortar. Recipe: 3 parts of sawdust are filled with a solution of aluminum sulfate (15-25.00 rubles/kg) or calcium chloride (28-30 rubles/kg). When stirring, the sugars contained in the sawdust are neutralized. Then 1 part of cement is added.

Thermal insulating masonry mortar with perlite LM 21-P has good reviews. The Quick-mix mixture has water-holding capacity, so the blocks do not need to be moistened separately. Supplied in 17.5 kg bags, in the form of a dry powder. The solution is easily mixed with water (stir for at least 5 minutes) by hand or with a mixer (mixer). Ready solution use within 1-2 hours.

Laying walls from arbolite blocks

The technology for laying wood concrete is identical to laying a brick or foam concrete wall, except that wood concrete strongly absorbs moisture from the solution, which means that the blocks need to be moistened before starting work.

1. Laying the first row of arbolite blocks

The masonry starts from the corner and is laid out in rows, periodically checking the degree of deviation with a level. The blocks are easy to process, so there will be no difficulties with adjusting the size.

The width of the seam depends on the geometry of the block and is 10-30 mm.

The solution is applied to the block of the previous row along the edges of the block. Thus, an air thermal break is obtained, which compensates high thermal conductivity masonry mortar.

On the construction forum, according to reviews, many users use additional method insulation of masonry by laying polystyrene foam tape in the seams, wooden slats etc. The gasket creates a gap in the mortar joint and thereby eliminates the appearance of cold bridges. How expedient this is, everyone decides for themselves.

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The optimal thickness of wood concrete walls is 30 cm, for houses with two floors and above - 40 cm. A simple rule applies - the thicker the wall, the warmer it is. A wood concrete wall thickness of 20 cm is possible if cladding with brick or additional insulation inside and out. How thick the wall should be depends on what region the house is in, how it will be heated, and what the construction budget is.

2. Reinforcement of walls made of wood concrete

Craftsmen advise stiffening a wood concrete wall by reinforcing it. To reinforce wood concrete, polymer (plastic) mesh or metal rods treated with anti-corrosion compounds (for example, UR-108 enamel) are used. Thus, the corners of the building, the junction of walls, window and door openings are strengthened. Unlike aerated concrete and foam concrete, no mandatory requirement in masonry reinforcement, but many users reinforce every 3-4 rows of masonry.

3. Laying wood concrete (dressing)

Arbolite blocks are laid in a checkerboard pattern (laying with dressing). This is necessary for reliable adhesion. No more than 3 rows are laid out around the perimeter. Then there is a break for a day. During this time, the solution will dry and you can continue working. That's why it's often external walls are erected together with internal ones.

Advice. Adding additives to the solution that increase the rate of strength gain of cement will increase the speed of work.

The “Shuttle” accelerator, which provides strength gain in 12 hours (consumption of 3 liters per 100 kg of cement, price 75 rubles/100 g) and the “Virtuoso Start” accelerator, which also contains an anti-shrinkage agent, have proven themselves well. Provides 50% strength gain in 3 hours (consumption 1 liter per 100 kg of cement, price 80 rubles/100 g).

4. Lintels over window and door openings

The photo shows step by step how to make a lintel over a window and over a door in a house made of wood concrete. Two options for covering openings.

Installation of jumpers from a metal corner

(the edges of the corner are walled into the walls, blocks are installed inside)

Installation of a channel lintel

(a groove was cut out in the wood concrete blocks for inserting a channel)

5. Installation of an armored belt under the ceiling in a house made of wood concrete

After erecting the wall, before laying the floor (interfloor or attic) on the wood concrete wall, you need to pour a concrete (monolithic) reinforcing belt. Its arrangement will give the wall strength, allow it to more evenly distribute the load and securely secure the Mauerlat.

How to make an armored belt on wood concrete:

• one outer row is laid out in half a block (you can purchase a narrow block or cut a wall one). This will be the outer part of the formwork;

• formwork is installed on the inside from edged boards, plywood or a narrow wood concrete block is also used;

• processed reinforcement is placed in the resulting recess (diameter 10 mm, in 6 rows) and filled with concrete (the grade of concrete is the same as that used for the foundation).

To make an armored belt, it is convenient to use a special U-shaped block (tray U-arboblock).

6. Installation of house floors made of wood concrete

A monolithic reinforced concrete slab, wooden or metal beams can be used as a flooring material.

Advice. Manufacturers of wood concrete blocks recommend producing. You don't need to fill in for this. concrete belt. After all, the ability of wood concrete to “pull” moisture from concrete does not have the best effect on the quality of the pour. Additional supplements will be required. It is also advisable to use wooden floors for installing door and window openings. The masters completely agree with them and recommend using wooden beam as a lining of the perimeter of the wall under the ceiling.

The Mauerlat is attached to the wood concrete with the obligatory laying of a layer of waterproofing.

7. Installation of communications in a house made of wood concrete

Laying communication systems does not create difficulties. Any holes can be easily made in wood concrete blocks, so there is no need to immediately lay additional channels for sewerage, pipes, heating, etc.

Some people use a hollow block, installing it on an edge.

Stage 6. Construction of a roof for a house made of wood concrete

Can be installed on arbolite walls rafter system any configuration. Choice roofing material also not regulated.

Experts advise using bitumen shingles for roofing works. They explain their choice by saying that bitumen shingles can perceive minor vibrations of wood concrete walls without the appearance of significant defects.

An important nuance when constructing a roof will be compliance with the rule - moving the roof 300-500 away from the wall, which will protect it from direct hit rain and melt water.

The process of work and laying wood concrete blocks is not complicated construction process. Especially if you know the characteristics and properties of the wood concrete itself.

What are arbolite blocks made of?

At the moment, the use of the material in construction has become quite common. This is due to the fact that the material has high technical indicators and its specific composition.

Wood concrete consists of:

• Made from sulphate cement.
• Portland cement.
• Binders.
• Shavings, sawdust and so on.
• Cellulose raw materials.
• Mineral enzymes.
• Chemical additives.
• Liquids.
• All materials have been tested for strength and reliability.
• They are used in a certain quantity.
• Wood concrete is produced only in special factories.
• But, it is possible to do it at home using equipment.
• To do this, you will need all the above ingredients and instructions.

The process of making raw materials yourself is quite a complex process, and you need to have certain knowledge in this area.

Technological features and material properties

It has long been established that arbolite blocks are the most optimal solution for the construction of a residential building. The price of this building material is affordable, which makes it possible to use it for other purposes.

Let's take a closer look at why?

• Arbolite blocks have a large porous structure.
• Thanks to this, it is possible to maintain a constant temperature in the room.
• The air humidity in the building is also at the same level (with proper operation of the building).
• In terms of their properties and characteristics, arbolite blocks are somewhat similar to the properties of wood.

Properties of arbolite blocks:

• This material is environmentally friendly, as it does not contain synthetic substances and elements. It is made only from pure raw materials.
• Wood concrete is not exposed to fire. This ensures the safety of the building in case of fire.
• The blocks have non-standard sizes, which are very helpful in building a house quickly and easily.
• They have less mass than bricks. Thus, there is no load on the foundation of the house.
• Despite their light weight, the blocks can withstand significant loads and are able to support any type of roof (on a wooden or metal frame).
• Arbolite is quite easy to cut.
• Thanks to their structure and composition, the blocks breathe, and thereby ensure favorable microclimate indoors.
• The material has a high thermal conductivity, which allows you to do without additional insulation.

Since the structure of wood concrete is porous, it is recommended to do its internal and external finishing. So that the pores do not absorb moisture and transfer it into the building.

• The most important property of wood concrete is that its structure and composition are not susceptible to decay, which cannot be said about wood.
• The material easily tolerates any climatic and weather conditions. Its structure does not change from such influence over a long period of operation.

Some professionals argue that only one-story buildings and outbuildings can be built from wood concrete. This is wrong. Wood concrete is a durable and reliable building material, and multi-story buildings made from it will be in use for at least 50 years.

• Arbolite is not afraid of frost. He is not afraid of temperature changes. Even if the house is not heated for a long time, then in a short period of time you can create optimal temperature, since the air in the room will immediately warm up, not the walls.

Types and brands of wood concrete blocks

Currently, two types of wood concrete blocks are used in construction:

• Thermal insulation.
• Structural.

All of them are divided into brands and subtypes:

• The strength of wood concrete depends on its brand.
• Wood concrete blocks of grade 50 are considered the most durable and reliable.
• All blocks of grades less than 50 can also be used for construction, you just need to correctly calculate the load on the material.
• There are also brands: 5-10-15-25-35.
• Similar grades are used to make not blocks, but arbolite slabs.
• Their range of applications lies in the insulation and insulation of external walls of a building.

Many builders give preference to the first size of arbolite block, since its laying is quite quick and simple, and the size of the material itself contributes to faster construction of the structure.

Second size suitable material more for the construction of interior partitions.

Laying arbolite blocks

Arbolite blocks are laid quite quickly and simply; all the work can be done independently.

Let's look at the work process:

• Masonry from arbolite blocks is simple due to the size of the material.
• Inside each block there is a thermal break, which provides thermal insulation of the building.
• Each block is laid in 0.5 blocks or 1 block.

Since the size of the wood concrete block is quite large, masonry of 1.5 or 2 blocks is possible only during the construction of multi-story buildings.

Due to the fact that the laying is carried out similarly to brick laying, it is done with your own hands:

• If the thermal break is filled with concrete mortar during the masonry process, the strength of the wall made of arbolite blocks increases.
• Eat various technologies masonry of arbolite blocks: with and without filling the thermal break.

If a concrete mortar is used in the masonry, which fills all the gaps on each block, then it is necessary to carry out external insulation of the structure, since due to the mortar the blocks will not pass air as effectively as without it.

In terms of their masonry and wall construction technology, buildings made from arbolite blocks are similar to adobe bricks. They have almost the same dimensions and similar properties in use.

In order to lay wood concrete blocks you will need:

• Pour the base of the building, which would correspond to its size and the weight of the roof structure.
• Then a concrete solution is made, into which special additives are added for greater strength.
• The solution itself is made from Portland cement, purified sand and water.

You should not immediately mix a lot of solution with additives, as it can quickly harden and lose its properties.

• The basis for laying arbolite blocks can be: monolithic, pile, columnar foundations.
• These types of foundations are the most optimal for the structure.
• If the building is one-story, then it is enough to use 0.5 block masonry.
• If the structure is two- or three-story, then it is better to use masonry in 1 block.

In both methods it is necessary to do the exterior finishing of the building.

Masonry tools you will need:

• Construction level.
• Plumb.
• Trowels.
• Container for more convenient use of the solution.
• Grinder with special attachments for cutting material.
• Reinforcement mesh small size, which can be laid between the blocks to secure them more firmly.

The laying itself is done using concrete mortar and the whole process is similar to brick laying.

Laying should be done starting from the corners of the building. Thus, the load-bearing corner structures will be more durable and consist of solid material.

Laying is done gradually:

• Initially, the solution is applied to the base and blocks are placed on it using a building level.
• They are securely fastened.
• The thickness of the concrete solution should not exceed 15-20 mm.
• Next, blocks are placed on the sides. It is impossible to immediately apply it from above, since the plane of the wall will be disrupted under the weight of the wood concrete blocks.

Each row of the block can be placed only after the first one has been thoroughly secured. It is worth considering that after masonry finishing work will be carried out using frame or brick cladding. It is necessary to make connecting reinforcement in the walls, which is mounted into the finishing and thus connects the wall with the finishing.

The finishing of wood concrete blocks, both external and internal, is carried out using modern facing materials, but it’s worth considering here ventilation gap in work, as the material breathes. In the video you can view the process of work associated with laying the material.

Laying wood concrete is not difficult. This building material is not “capricious” and does not introduce any difficulties into the process. You can work with it yourself, having basic construction skills. But before work, it’s worth studying the process so that further installation goes “like clockwork.”

Advantages of wood concrete masonry

The chips, which are components of the block and provide strength, form cavities. The air accumulated in such gaps is considered an ideal heat insulator. But there is also a disadvantage to this, since the masonry mortar is consumed too quickly.

But the seams between the blocks are thinner, that is, the reliability of the structure becomes higher. This is explained by the fact that the solution penetrates into all cavities of the block when mutual pressure occurs. The block of the second row begins to press the mass directly onto the solution. After the cement hardens, a real monolith is obtained - the adhesion between the blocks is so good. And if compared with a smooth and overly dense material, it would not be able to give exactly the same effect.

Therefore, the structure of the block helps to make the structure indestructible. And the convenient light weight does not require many hands: it can be done alone. Even a beginner in construction can do this.

You can build from wood concrete not only one-story houses and outbuildings. This is a durable and reliable material. Multi-storey buildings, created from such blocks, are also durable and comfortable. And their service life is at least fifty years.

Solutions for arbolite blocks

The building block itself is good. But you need to make an effort so as not to spoil it with a low-quality solution. When two blocks are connected, they become a monolith if the solution is chosen correctly.

There are several types of solutions that you need to understand:

1. Cement-sand composition. This is the simplest mixture, it is used more often than others in construction, but it is the most unsuitable for wood concrete. This solution turns almost into stone when it sets. But it transmits heat too well, which means that the seams will become a weak point through which the cold will easily seep through. In principle, it is suitable for building a barn or other non-residential premises where the air temperature should not be too high.
2. Perlite mixture. It is much more often used in wood concrete masonry. It is more preferable than the previous option. Perlite is a special volcanic rock. It is not easy to work with, as the powder easily scatters in all directions. But at the same time, unlike a cement-sand mixture, it retains heat and does not release it to the outside. Small particles make it possible to make a solution that penetrates well into the cavities of the blocks and makes them a reliable monolith.
3. Special glue designed for cellular blocks. It is considered the most suitable for laying wood concrete with your own hands. It retains heat just as well, is economical, and durable, like the perlite mixture. Only it turns out to be much easier to work with him.

Wood concrete is also laid on polyurethane foam. This product provides good grip. It also guarantees good thermal insulation. But the disadvantage of this mixture is that it is difficult to lay the blocks evenly on it. This makes it significantly inferior to special glue and perlite.

Preparation of the solution

It is not difficult to make a mixture for laying walls from wood concrete. Even an inexperienced builder can cope with this. But in order for the composition to really turn out to be of high quality and reliably connect the blocks, it is necessary to adhere to the correct proportions.

Sand with cement

For those who decide to prepare a solution of sand and cement to build a building, you can use the following tips. You must use one part M400 cement and two parts sand or one part M500 cement and three parts sand of your choice. Take a construction mixer and mix the dry mixture well until it looks homogeneous. After this, you need to gradually pour water and stir. When adding liquid, you should focus on the volume of cement. The mixture will be quite thick, but not too runny. Liquid solution is not suitable.

Perlite

To create a perlite solution, take two buckets of the dry mixture and pour it into a container that can hold another ten liters of liquid. Perlite is a difficult material. It scatters too much at the slightest breath of wind. It is better to work with it in protective clothing, special glasses and a respirator. After mixing with water, add half a bucket of cement and stir until a homogeneous composition is obtained. The mass will not be fluid, so you should not add excess water to it. Leave the mixture for ten minutes, then stir again.

Glue mixture

Such a composition can be made according to the standard scheme or you can follow the recommendations that will be written on the packaging. According to the standard, you need to take five kilograms of dry powder and dilute it in twenty-five liters of water. The resulting homogeneous mass must be left for five minutes, then stirred again. The glue is easy to prepare, but if it is not used within two hours, it becomes unusable. Because of this, you should not prepare a lot of mixture at a time.

In addition to the above solutions for laying perlite, sawdust concrete is often used. To create such a fixing composition, sawdust is mixed with aluminum sulfate or calcium chloride and cement is added.

Preparation for masonry

Depending on the climate, the walls are made to a certain thickness. If the weather in the region is mild, then a thickness of 30 cm is enough. If it is cold, then this figure should be increased.

When laying wood concrete, it is allowed to vary the thickness of the walls. You can lay it flat, which will make the walls appear denser. Or you can do it on edge, for example, when building a poultry house or shed. It all depends on the average air temperature in a particular area, as well as on what this or that building is intended for.

To build walls made of wood concrete, you need to prepare a tool. You should definitely find a building level and a cord, without which it will be impossible to make the walls straight and even. You will also need a spatula and a square. To quickly apply the solution to the surface of the block, you will need a trowel ladle. Don’t forget about a chainsaw, as well as a construction mixer, which you will need at the very beginning when mixing the solution.

First row of masonry

The first row of blocks must be perfectly protected from moisture penetration. Before laying wood concrete, you need to determine how many blocks you need to take on one row of the wall, and also how many you need to cut with a chainsaw. Apply five to six millimeters of mortar with a ladle and level the layer. It is important to remember that some of the mixture will inevitably seep into the cavities located between the chips. This means that the seam itself will be approximately 3 mm, and if laid especially carefully, it will not be more than 2 mm.

The first block should be laid, checking its correctness with a square, and then using a level to ensure its evenness. If there are errors, you should correct them using a rubber mallet. You should forget about metal tools, since they are not used in this case. They will leave an unsightly dent that will not paint the building at all.

The same procedure should be repeated at all corners of the building. After the corner blocks have been correctly installed, you need to stretch the construction cord between them. This will help you quickly lay out other elements of the first row, since you won’t need to check with a level every time: orientation to the cord is enough.

The side of the corner block must be coated with the solution and the next element must be adjusted. And so on. Always check the cord.

Laying subsequent rows

After the first row is laid, wait at least four hours for the solution to fully set and harden. After this you need to put on top reinforced mesh, which is typical specifically for the first row.

The next rows of blocks are laid much faster, the process itself is simpler. After all, you can start from any place, not from the corners. You need to check the level, but not every time - from time to time. But you can use the same pattern with corners and construction cord, if that’s more convenient. The main thing is to always maintain the same seam size and make sure that it is small. The blocks should lie horizontally, without slanting to the side.

Each subsequent row of blocks is laid only after the previous one is securely fastened.

Reinforcement of arbolite blocks

To give greater rigidity to wood concrete masonry, experts recommend making reinforcement. For this they use plastic mesh or rods made of metal. With the help of reinforcement, the corners of the building, openings, and wall joining points are strengthened.

It is not necessary to reinforce the wood concrete masonry. But builders carry out this procedure every three to four rows .

Laying door and window openings

Before the start of the window, four rows of masonry are made. Only after this does the formation of the opening begin. Lintels for doors and windows are made using two methods: using reinforced concrete (formwork is made, then reinforced and only then filled with concrete) or using ready-made reinforced blocks.

Construction from wood concrete, which is carried out according to the rules, will create a durable, warm building. A house made of this material will delight you with comfort and reliability for many decades.