Many people think that growing fuchsia is not at all difficult, because the plant is quite easy to care for. But this seems only at first glance; as practice shows, fuchsia is quite capricious.

Fuchsia often loses leaves and buds if it is disturbed, rearranged or rotated during flowering.

IN winter time in bright light it may also shed its leaves. To prevent this from happening, it is shaded and the buds that appear are removed, i.e. do not allow the plant to bloom.

Fuchsia does not like high temperatures, as a result of which it can shed its leaves and form long thin shoots.

Leaves may fall if there is too little humidity, poor watering and high temperatures.

It is extremely dangerous for fuchsia if the soil in the pot overheats (it is better to plant plants in light pots, they heat up less). This can even lead to the death of the plant, because... it has very tender roots. You can correct the situation by placing the pot in a flowerpot to create an air gap.

Pests that sometimes appear on fuchsia (whiteflies and mites) can also cause leaf fall. In this case, the leaves on both sides and the ground are treated with phytoverm, actellik or actara according to the instructions included with these preparations.

In order for fuchsia to grow and develop well, it is necessary to maintain favorable conditions for it.

1. Wintering is very important for fuchsia. The plant should overwinter in a cool room at a temperature of 6-12 degrees.

2. Considering that fuchsia loves an abundance of bright but diffused light, it is better to place it on windows facing east or west side.

On a south-facing window, fuchsia should be protected from direct sunlight. When it is located in a northern window, and even shaded by trees, the fuchsia stems stretch out, it blooms sparingly, the leaves and flowers become smaller.

3. Watering is probably the most important thing for fuchsias. Water it regularly with settled water at room temperature. In this case, the water should not stagnate in the pan - it must be drained.

From March to September, fuchsia is watered after the top layer of soil has slightly dried out. From October, the frequency of watering is reduced, and by the end of November it almost stops. This promotes more abundant flowering in the future and does not allow the shoots to stretch.

4. Fuchsia is very responsive to spraying. From May to August, it is advisable to spray the plant twice a day in the morning and evening, and in the fall two to three times a week.

5. This capricious beauty does not need feeding from October to March. But in other months, fuchsia is fed every two to three weeks with fertilizer for flowering plants.

6. Fuchsia usually blooms from May to November. During this entire period, faded flowers are removed, which promotes the formation of new buds.

7. Considering that flower buds form only on young shoots, old bare stems are cut off, and young stems are pinched after the second or third internodes. This also contributes to better tillering. If the density is not enough, the shoots that have grown after the first pinching are shortened again (after the second pair of leaves).

The last pinching is done no later than the end of April. If this procedure is carried out later, flowering will be pushed closer to autumn, since fuchsia usually takes about two months to form buds and bloom.

By observing all of the above conditions, you can not only protect fuchsia from leaf fall, but also form an original tree. To do this, vertically growing shoots are attached to a support and all side shoots are cut off until the trunk reaches the desired height. After this, the top is cut off and three to five side shoots are allowed to develop, which will form the crown of the tree.

Fuchsia - very beautiful houseplant. It is of great interest due to its abundant and long flowering from spring to late autumn. Moreover, breeders have bred a huge number different varieties. There are ampelous and bush varieties.

Fuchsias can be grown in hanging baskets and formed from them. standard trees or beautiful bushes. Just a little effort and lush flowers with beautiful skirts will delight you with blooms and bright colors.

Fuchsia prefers bright, diffused light. Able to tolerate evening and morning sun rays. Suitable for growing near windows with western and eastern exposure. Windows with southern exposure should be shaded from direct sunlight. Near the northern window, the plant may bloom weaker and stretch out more. Keep in mind that a blooming fuchsia should never be rotated or rearranged - this may cause the buds and flowers to fall off. Exhibiting fuchsia in the summer open air remember that the plant should be accustomed to the new level of illumination gradually to avoid sunburn.

Fuchsias die in the heat from overheating of the roots, so it is recommended to grow fuchsias in ceramic pots rather than in plastic ones, in which the roots become hotter.

To prevent plants from dying, remove them from bright sun. Try to keep the pot itself protected from direct sunlight. It can be wrapped in light paper. On a hot afternoon, it is best to move fuchsias to the back of the room or in the shade.

During the growing season, fuchsia prefers temperatures around 18-25C. The plant feels great in the fresh air.
It can become a decoration for your balcony, just try to protect it from wind and direct midday sunlight. In winter, it is best to find a bright and, if possible, cool place for the plant. Optimal temperature at this time of year it is 5-10°C, which is almost impossible in city apartments.

Fuchsia is able to overwinter at room temperature: in this case, it partially or even completely sheds its leaves, and the shoots stretch out. The plant does not tolerate stagnant air. When ventilating the room, especially in winter, make sure that there are no drafts - fuchsia does not tolerate them.

From spring to autumn, fuchsia is watered abundantly with soft, settled water as the top layer of the substrate dries. The soil in the pot should be slightly moist at all times. To get abundant flowering in summer, watering is reduced towards the end of the growing season, and almost stopped in October - November. In winter, when kept at cool temperatures, they are watered rarely; if kept at room temperature, watering is carried out somewhat more often.

Fuchsia prefers during the growing season high humidity air, responds gratefully to spraying with soft, settled water (twice in the summer on hot days - in the morning and in the evening). Spraying is stopped in the fall; spraying is avoided in winter.

For successful plant growth during the growing season (from spring to autumn), complex fertilizing should be carried out. mineral fertilizers Once every 2-3 weeks. Nitrogen fertilizers (more precisely, complex fertilizers, but with a high nitrogen content) can and should be used, but during the growth period: early spring or when you grow cuttings. And after the buds appear, you need to switch to floral ones (i.e. with a high content of phosphorus and potassium). In winter, the plant is not fed.

At good watering and fertilizing, fuchsias bloom luxuriously starting in late spring. Flowering occurs profusely and continues until late autumn. The fruits are juicy and berry-shaped. U blooming fuchsias It is necessary to remove faded flowers to stimulate the formation of new buds. To prolong flowering until late autumn or winter, fuchsias are kept indoors until June, then taken out to the balcony or front garden and pruned several times during the summer.

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1. Fuchsia does not bloom!

And there is no way to alleviate the suffering from changing the place - spray it 2 times a day, do not keep it in bright sun and do not feed it for a month. Sometimes you have to trim the crown if it is very large. If its condition begins to deteriorate - the branches dry out, mold appears in the pot, the trunk rots at the base - then you will have to check the roots again. This can also happen from overfeeding.

9. The tips of my fuchsia leaves are drying out.

Answer: In most cases, the tips of fuchsia leaves dry out when the root system is damaged (flooding, root collar rot, drying out of the coma, overheating of the roots, underground pests). The reason may also be a sharp change in air humidity (for example, if fuchsia, accustomed to high humidity"under the hood" put in a hot, dry room without adaptation), frostbite, chapping (when taking out a person accustomed to room conditions fuchsia on the balcony without adaptation), sunburn leaves, ground pests

Exotic fuchsia does not bloom at home - is the microclimate at home suitable? We create all the conditions for fuchsia to bloom.

Understanding what fuchsia needs to bloom is half the battle in getting it to form inflorescences. The plant belongs to the shrub species with a habitat in the central regions of America. Can be found in New Zealand. Having brought back from your trip the idea of ​​planting fuchsia at home, you successfully carried out the procedures, and even managed to get beautiful plants, but flowering did not occur. Let's figure out why.

Caring for fuchsia at home for flowering:

• Abundant lighting;
• Air temperature from 20 to 30° C;
• Spraying;
• Placement on east windows;
• Application of biofertilizers;

Fuchsia flowering at home depends on the amount of lighting. In the spring-summer period, when foliage grows and buds form, you need to place the plant on eastern, western or southwestern windows. Avoid direct sunlight and heat. In the summer, try to provide neutral care for fuchsia, but in early spring there is room to roam. It is recommended to illuminate fuchsia in the evening to increase the length of daylight. This is effective not only on cloudy days, but also in the summer, when fuchsia closes up from the active sun. You can also reduce overheating of the roots and protect fuchsia blooms by planting the plant in a ceramic pot that keeps it cool.

To maintain optimal level humidity, the plant needs not only to be watered, but also sprayed , which will create a comfortable environment for flowering. Spraying is best done in the morning, but evening spraying is not excluded, but during the day, wetting the leaves is strictly prohibited. In summer, to prolong the flowering of fuchsia, you need to place a tray with wet pebbles.

Fertilizing is based on the application of ready-made biologically active fertilizers once a week to stimulate flowering. You can start feeding from the end of March, when the plant fully wakes up after winter period peace.

Why doesn't fuchsia bloom?

Having analyzed the above proposed care methods, we can identify a number of exact reasons why fuchsia does not bloom.

Why fuchsia does not bloom at home:

• Heat;
• Lack of lighting;
• Excess moisture;
• Lack of fertilizing;

In order to bring fuchsia out of its somnambulistic state and make it bloom, need to be moved to a place with diffused lighting, moderately watered and sprayed, fertilized with a mineral complex, focusing on phosphorus and potassium elements. The plant buds will not keep you waiting if there are no other significant problems that would prevent their appearance.

Fuchsia diseases:

• Rust;
• Gray rot;

Pests on fuchsia:

• Ticks;
• Caterpillars;

Get rid of aphids and mites, which, moreover, “leave” rust behind them, you can using soapy water and mechanical removal, but if the degree of damage is severe - insecticides. Caterpillars remove from sheets and also use spot-on preparations or aerosols.

Insecticides:

• "Aktelli";
• "Anti-Aphids";
• "BI-58";
• "Decis";

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IN recent years fuchsia has become one of the most popular indoor plants. They love her for her magnificent, very beautiful bloom, variety of types and colors. Proper care For fuchsias at home - the key to long flowering and high decorativeness of the plant. Creation of favorable conditions, temperature regime, the correct watering schedule - all the details are described in detail in this article.

One of the most beautiful representatives of the fireweed family. evergreen shrub native to South and Central America. Feature- stems of a reddish hue and small oval leaves. As a houseplant, fuchsia is a hybrid of various colors and shapes.

Bredted by breeders interesting varieties with ordinary and double flowers. Two-color varieties are highly prized. The flowers are held on long, thin stalks, shaped like Chinese lanterns.

It is grown in the form of compact bushes, as a hanging crop or a standard tree. Fuchsia looks beautiful in the garden in compositions with other flowers. The flowering periods of individual varieties vary - making up collections of different varieties, achieve flowering from early spring to late autumn.

Important! In winter, fuchsia enters a dormant phase. During this period, the plant’s strength is restored and flower buds are laid. For abundant flowering next season they create favorable conditions rest. In mid-autumn, watering is gradually reduced and fertilizers are stopped. Closer to winter, the flower pot is moved to a cool place 10-15°C. In a city apartment, the flower can be placed on a glazed, insulated balcony. Further decrease in temperature is harmful.

Varieties and varieties

All varieties of fuchsia have pronounced characteristics. They differ in colors, shapes of leaves and flowers.

• Fuchsia trifolia. Compact, low bush. The height rarely exceeds 50 cm. The branching is abundant, the branches are pubescent. Round, jagged leaves are collected in several pieces. The flowers are not large, deep red.
• Fuchsia is elegant. The plant is a shrub type, grows up to a meter. The branches are reddish. The flowers are shaped like bells.
• Fuchsia hybrid. The variety includes dozens of artificially bred varieties. It is distinguished by increased decorativeness and a variety of colors. Various hybrids are intended for growing in an apartment or open ground.
• Fuchsia Boliviana. The shrub is no higher than a meter. The leaves are oval, relatively large, with a pointed tip.
• Fuchsia Magellanica. They are called conical and multi-colored. In nature it grows up to 5 meters. Branches with sparse purple pubescence. The flowers are axillary, solitary or forming inflorescences.

Advice! I love it indoor variety fuchsias can be planted in a flowerbed for the summer. This benefits the plant. In autumn, when the temperature drops to 15°C, the flower is carefully dug up and replanted in a pot.

Features of cultivation and subtleties of care

The decorative effect and intensity of flowering depend on how to care for fuchsia. Location, lighting, and watering schedule are important.

• Choice of location and lighting. The flower is susceptible to changing location - it easily sheds buds and flowers. It is not recommended to change it during the active growth phase. Choose a moderately lit place. East and west window sills work well. Placement on a south window is allowed only with shading. The northern windows are illuminated with fluorescent lamps.
• Temperature. Prefers moderate warmth 18-20°C. Too much high temperature negatively affects appearance plants. In winter they are kept at 10-15°C.
• Watering. Regardless of the time of year, water regularly. In summer it is more frequent and abundant, in winter it is less frequent and more moderate. Excess humidity do not allow - next watering only after the soil surface has completely dried.
• Humidity. Humid air is beneficial. The flower is regularly sprayed with a fine spray bottle. Use warm, well-settled water.
• Feeding. During the period of growth and flowering, use balanced fertilizers for pelargoniums. It is allowed to add other complex products for flowering crops. The recommended frequency of fertilizing is no more than 2 times a month. In winter, fertilizers are not applied.
• Transfer. They are not often replanted - as the root system grows. The signal for transplantation is the germination of roots through the drainage holes. Choose a small pot for fuchsia. In spacious containers, the plant gains green mass, increases root system, flowering weakens or stops altogether.
• Soil. A mixture of compost, peat, humus and coarse sand is recommended. Sand is taken twice as much as other components.

From personal experience! For friendly and lush flowering included in soil mixture add horny or bone meal. Per liter of substrate - a tablespoon of flour.

Formation rules

Formation begins at the earliest stages of development - after rooting and the beginning of growth of the cuttings. You can use one of the most common forming methods.

1. Upright bush. Bush varieties of fuchsia are suitable. Formation involves pinching the shoots after two pairs of leaves appear. All subsequent side shoots are pinched using the same pattern. If the distance between the nodes is small, pinching through 3 nodes is allowed.
2. Standard tree. Bush varieties are used to form a trunk. A support is stuck into the ground next to the cutting and tied up soft material. The young trunk does not need a period of rest. Side shoots first order are not removed, but their growth is limited by pinching after 2-3 pairs of leaves. As they grow, they are transplanted into containers larger size. At a height of 0.5-1 meters, pinch the top. The crown is formed according to the principle of a bush. Regular pinching makes the crown thick and even. To grow a standard tree, it is not recommended to choose varieties with large flowers.
3. Ampel form. Only one node is left on the first shoots. Side shoots are pinched after 2 pairs of leaves. Subsequent growth is not limited.

Fuchsia is easy to shape and quickly recovers after pruning. The only negative is the delay in flowering.

Advice! It is useful to feed young plants with organic matter and fertilizers with a high nitrogen content. Adults fertilize with potassium and phosphorus for lush flowering.

Reproduction methods

At home, fuchsia is rarely grown from seeds for the purpose of propagation. Seeds collected independently in most cases do not carry characteristic features mother plant. Use better seeds purchased in a store.

• Seeds. Sow on a moist substrate without embedding, cover with film. Fuchsia seeds germinate quickly - shoots appear within 1-2 weeks. 2 months after germination, the grown seedlings are planted, and after another two months they are transplanted into individual pots. Carefully monitor soil moisture and protect from the sun.
• By cuttings. Propagating fuchsia by cuttings is considered a more reliable method. Cuttings can be cut at any time of the year, the optimal period is spring. The length of the cuttings is 10-20cm. Can be germinated in water or soil. Lower leaves on the cuttings are removed, the rest are cut in half. Place in water with added activated carbon and heteroauxin. Top covered with trimmed plastic bottle. The roots appear quickly - after 4-10 days. They do not wait for the development of the root system; they are planted in the ground immediately after the first roots appear. Some gardeners prefer to root cuttings directly in the soil.

Growing problems

Fuchsias contribute bright colors to apartments and flower arrangements in the flower beds. They have earned the love of flower growers around the world for beautiful colors and abundant flowering.

Flower growers are often interested in why fuchsia does not bloom. What to do? How to make fuchsia bloom at home? The article describes the main causes and ways to eliminate them.

There are several reasons why fuchsia does not want to bloom

1. Lack of light. At the same time, the shoots are very elongated, the foliage is pale, possibly light green. This situation can be corrected by moving the flower to a more illuminated place. The best option there will be a western or eastern direction of the windows with shading during the daytime from the direct sun.
2. Frequent pinching. Fuchsias bloom on young shoots, and with frequent pinching, flowering is constantly delayed. Some varieties of fuchsia also bloom on short shoots. But mostly - on 4-5 pairs of leaves, or even 6-7. It is worth waiting for the shoots to grow, and the fuchsia will bloom.
3. Pot too big. For fuchsia to bloom, you need a tight pot. In the photo below, the pot is clearly larger than required. This fuchsia should be transplanted into a smaller pot, and flowering will not be long in coming.

1. Overfeeding with nitrogen fertilizers. Such plants “fatten”, gain juicy greens beyond the norm, and are not in time for flowering. Moderate fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers will help fuchsia bloom.
2. Feature of the variety. Just as there are early ripening and late-ripening varieties vegetables, and fuchsias come with early or later flowering depending on the variety. Here you just need to wait.

If all of the listed reasons for the lack of flowering are not similar to your case, you can try replant the plant in fresh soil.
And also, feeding phosphorus-potassium fertilizers promotes active bud formation. Potassium monophosphate is dissolved at the rate of 1 g/l for root feeding, or 2 g/l for leaf spraying. This solution should be used once every 1-2 weeks, preferably in the evening.

Do you have any proven ways to get fuchsia to bloom? Share your experience in the comments!