The shape of a bonsai container can be rectangular, oval, round or polygonal. Deep or almost flat - focused on the style that will be formed. All styles that have a sloped trunk require a more stable container for planting, which means the container must be made of heavy material (clay bowls) or be deep enough. The container should not be too bright or colorful; on the contrary, the simplicity of color and shape only emphasizes the style.

In addition, the bonsai container should not violate the proportions of the grown composition with its shape.

For example, bowl too flat and wide used for bonsai with a wide dense crown or multi-trunked forms, and for styles with a single tree in which the bottom part the trunk will look good if only a piece of landscape or terrain is imitated on it (moss, stones, figurines or miniature houses, etc.). The large area of ​​the bowl creates a feeling of space.

Not wide, but quite deep bowls Suitable for styles where plants have tall and open roots.

Very narrow and deep containers, reminiscent of flower vases in shape, are used for cascading styles, with a hanging tree crown.
In any case, try to maintain the following proportions - the height of the walls of the bowl should be no less than the thickness of the trunk. And the length of the bowl should correspond to approximately 2/3 of the height of the plant.

Containers require additional preparation before planting. First, some of them do not have drainage holes. You will have to make them yourself, since most often bonsai bowls are made of clay or ceramics, then for the holes you need to use a regular drill with a drill for tiles and glass (which is used to drill holes in bathrooms).
Don’t forget also that before transplanting into any container, it is not enough to just rinse it; it is safer to additionally scald it with boiling water.

Bonsai soil

As a rule, a special substrate is used to grow bonsai. This is akadama akadama - clay granules, in nature it is earth from the territory of the Kanto province, in Japan. Used in traditional Japanese bonsai. The soil is heavy, nutritious, moisture-intensive and breathable soil. It has different fractions, small and larger, on average about 3-5 mm, has a pH = 6-6.5. They rarely plant in pure akadama.

The bonsai mixture contains components - sand, clay, humus (humus). For deciduous trees, it is better to prepare a substrate of 7 parts turf land and 3 parts sand. For flowering and fruiting bonsai - 6 parts of turf soil, 3 parts of sand and 1 part of leaf humus. For coniferous plants, you need to prepare a mixture of 6 parts turf soil and 4 parts sand.
river sand Before use, it is washed thoroughly and thoroughly calcined in the oven; its main task is to provide the soil with sufficient looseness. Part of the sand can be replaced with vermiculite.

Clay-turf soil has nutritional value, but it must also absorb moisture well and allow air to pass through.
You can use purchased soil mixtures, but the choice should be made with special care. The fact is that most earthen mixtures consist of peat with the addition of garden fertilizers. But there are special substrates for growing bonsai, for example, “Aurica Gardens for Bonsai”.

If you want to prepare the soil yourself, then find a green meadow, remove a layer of turf, and dig up the top 20cm of soil. It needs to be sifted through a large screen to remove stones, sticks and roots of meadow grass.

The soil also requires preliminary disinfection. To do this, you will need a metal bucket and a sieve, such a width that when placed in the bucket, it fits snugly about halfway up its height. Water is poured into a bucket, the sieve is lowered and a layer of earth is poured, no more than the height of the sieve. Place the structure on the fire, which is reduced after boiling. The duration of the procedure is about 30 minutes. You can also simply warm the soil in the oven on a baking sheet.

Bonsai transplant

To maintain the miniature size of the plant you have to prune it. But in order to maintain balance in proportions, it is necessary to trim the roots. This is done during transplantation. The time of transplantation depends on the type of plant. As a rule, a sign of the need for transplantation is the appearance of new buds. For decorative deciduous plants this occurs in the spring, at the end of winter. For flowering bonsai, replanting, pruning the crown and roots is carried out at the end of flowering, usually in the fall.

Replanting and pruning become necessary only when the roots have filled the entire container. If this does not happen, and the plant has already been taken out of the container, then the roots are not cut off, but only the old soil is replaced with fresh soil. The main indicator of the need to replant a bonsai, as for everyone indoor plants is the germination of roots into the drainage hole of the container.

You need to remove the plant from the container after thoroughly moistening the soil. The roots need to be inspected and those that are too thick are removed with pruning shears. The main strength is the wide fibrous root system. Therefore, the main bundle of fibrous roots is not touched, i.e. there is no need to pick it apart and try to remove the remaining soil from it. But the existing tap root is completely removed.

If it is not a purchased ready-made bonsai that is replanted, but one previously grown in an ordinary pot, and upon examination it is discovered that the taproot is well developed and the fibrous system is poorly developed, then it is too early to form a bonsai from it. You can trim the taproot by 1/3 or 1/2 and leave it in the same pot until fibrous roots develop.

It is believed that thickened roots protruding above the surface of the ground in a container are one of the main characteristics of a true bonsai. Therefore, when transplanting, thickened roots are brought to the surface - this gives the composition a more natural look. The soil in the container can be covered with a layer of green moss. This also maintains a natural appearance and does not allow water to evaporate too quickly. After replanting, the bonsai is watered more moderately to avoid rotting of the cut roots, shaded from direct sunlight and protected from the wind. Adaptation takes about 3-4 weeks.

Watering bonsai

Due to the nature of planting bonsai, the soil in a container dries out much faster than in ordinary pots with indoor plants. Therefore, bonsai are watered much more often. When planting a bonsai, the soil is compacted, and water may be poorly absorbed when watering, so bonsai are often watered by immersing them in a basin filled with water.

The frequency of watering depends on the time of year and, accordingly, on the temperature; in summer this usually happens daily, and on hot days in the morning and evening. In winter, watering is much less frequent - about once a week, and more sparing. Wet soil should not be allowed to cool.

The frequency of watering is a very controversial issue and giving recommendations as when growing other plants - touching the soil at depth with your finger - is pointless. Yes, it should have time to dry on top, but it is impossible to test it at depth, so it is more a matter of experience. There are plants that tolerate dryness quite easily; as soon as you water them, the wilted leaves and twigs become elastic again. For some, too much drying can be disastrous. The less soil in the container and the more roots, the faster the water in the soil absorbs and dries. That's why important point- when watering, water should wet the entire earthen ball, and not just the top layer of soil. Those. It is necessary to water so that water appears from the drainage holes. Water must not remain in the stand! Containers for bonsai with tall legs serve as a safety net.

In addition, the irrigation regime and water consumption depend on the type of plant; it should be taken into account that plants with fleshy parts (stems or leaves - succulents), as well as coniferous plants, require less water for irrigation. The former because they are able to store it in tissues, the latter due to the smaller surface area for water evaporation. Accordingly, deciduous bonsai with lush crown They evaporate more moisture and are more demanding of both watering and air humidity.

It is best to water in the morning and/or evening, i.e. when the heat of the day has not yet arrived or has already subsided. Not a single plant tolerates water getting on its leaves on a sunny day. All living conditions should be similar to natural ones, and in nature, as you know, dew falls in the morning and evening. If suddenly on a hot day the plant dries out and the leaves droop, it needs to be moved to the shade (to a cool place), then allowed to cool a little, and only then place the container in a container with warm water, so that it completely covers the ground. When the bonsai gets drunk, it can be sprayed.

What should the water be like? It is best to use soft tap water filtered with a household filter. If there is no possibility or desire to use filtered or rain water (it is most preferable), then you can use tap water that has been standing for at least 3 days. During this time, a sediment of impurities will fall out, so you need to carefully drain only the top layer of water.

If the water in your area is very hard, then a regular filter will not be enough; only filters with ion exchange resins will help (they remove impurities of calcium and magnesium salts from the water), for example, Geyser WS series.
If this is not done, then not only on the surface of the earth, but over time and on the bark of trees, a white chalky sediment will form, which can no longer be cleaned off.
The same goes for spraying. Bonsai requires and responds well to regular spraying, but hard water leaves an indelible white salt coating on the leaves.
The water temperature for irrigation and spraying should be several degrees higher than the ambient temperature.

Fertilizer feeding

Bonsai is fertilized throughout the year, with the only difference being that in spring and summer, fertilizers are applied with watering once a week, and in autumn and winter - once a month. This is due to the fact that there is little land in the container, and water nutrients, as a rule, does not.

Both specialized fertilizers for bonsai and ordinary preparations for indoor plants are used as fertilizer. Do not mix organic and mineral fertilizers in one go. All fertilizers are diluted in a concentration two or even three times less than recommended. An overdose is like death.

There are special developments by famous authors involved in bonsai breeding, who provide recipes for special fertilizers for bonsai. For example, fertilizer based on cotton cake contains: cotton cake - 300 g; sesame cake - 300 g; superphosphate - 100 g; fish meal - 200 g; wood ash - 100 g; water - 10 l.
But I personally will never use such a recipe, due to the fact that I have no idea where to look for cake or fishmeal in an urban environment. In addition, the liquid will have a very unpleasant odor.

It is much easier, more convenient and safer to use special fertilizers for bonsai, for example, Pokon for bonsai. I also recommend Planet of Flowers fertilizers for bonsai. If you do not find specialized fertilizers, then you can use fertilizer for indoor flowers"Ideal".

You should not apply fertilizer immediately after replanting and pruning the plant, or if the plant is sick and weakened. Do not feed plants before flowering or during flowering. Moreover, some types of bonsai (for example, myrtle) will not bloom at all if they are fed too often.

It should also be borne in mind that coniferous bonsai plants require less fertilizer than deciduous ones. Therefore, they are fed approximately half as often.
All fertilizers are applied to moist soil or diluted in sufficient amounts of water.

To avoid mistakes, it is better to create a feeding calendar or set aside one day a week for this procedure. Let's say Monday is fertilization day.

Akadama-tsugi(red pounded earth) is earth from the plateau in the Kanto region. It is heavy and quite hard, considered the best for bonsai, plus it is a good base for moss. Before use, it is crushed and sifted, obtaining fractions different sizes. It is essentially red clay.

Kurodama-tsugi(black heavy earth) - used as the main one. It is placed in the middle of the container (on the drainage layer and under the cover soil layer).

Kiryu-tsugi- soil gray, found in Kiriu County, Gunma Prefecture. It provides good drainage without mixing with a special layer, and is used for tropical evergreens. This soil is like red clay mixed with sand.

Kanuma-tsugi- substrate yellow from Kanuma County, Toshigi Prefecture. It holds moisture well and is used for azaleas.

Keto Tsugi(peat soil) is a very nutritious soil that does not erode when watered. Due to these properties, it is used mainly for rock compositions, as it provides good food plants whose roots are exposed.

Tenyingawa-tsugi(river soil) - used as drainage and as a component of various mixtures. Indispensable for pine trees. In fact, it is just river sand with grains of different diameters.

Mizu-woe(sphagnum) is a lightweight, hygroscopic, breathable substrate. Used for cuttings, air layering and for plants with an open root system.

Kusarena-tsugi (deciduous ground) are partially and completely decomposed plants. It is used for flower and fruit bonsai, and can be used to feed weakened plants.

Making soil for bonsai

The composition of bonsai soil varies depending on the type of plant. For coniferous species add more sand, this helps to quickly remove excess water and prevents root rotting. It is good if there are some needles (or leaves) of the plant being grown in the soil. Azaleas require the traditional Japanese “acidic soil”, so it is recommended to regularly water them with highly diluted lemon juice. Azalea, like all heather crops, is a calcephobe plant that cannot tolerate calcium in the soil. Calcephobes also include conifers and some tropical species. For succulents such as Crassula or Adenium, add charcoal, which prevents acidification of the soil and rotting of plant roots. Ash is suitable for plants that prefer alkaline soils, for example, lilacs.

Soils are acidic, neutral and alkaline:
1. pH 7 - when the concentrations of hydrogen and hydroxide are equal, the soil is said to be neutral;
2. pH below 7 - indicates acidic soil;
3. pH above 7 - the soil is called alkaline.

The acidity of the soil is often due to the peat content in it.

Peat consists of dehydrated and compressed organic plant residues and has an excellent ability to absorb water and retain nutrients.

A tree taken from its natural environment will take root best if planted in the same soil in which it grew in nature. However, in this case, certain precautions should be taken. First of all, it is necessary to remove the top 20 cm layer of soil, making sure that there are no insects or seeds there. Sift the soil through a sieve and leave only the finest grained part. After this, you need to sterilize the soil in a water bath or in bright sun.

The main components of natural soils are clay, sand and humus.

1. Clay consists of very small particles formed as a result of chemical reactions and weathering of rocks. Most of all it contains potassium silicate and aluminum agglomerates. Red clay contains ferruginous minerals, while black clay contains carbon-containing particles. Crystalline clay granules provide a loose soil structure, which promotes better air supply to the roots.

2. Sand can be sea, river or mountain. River sand with rounded grains of sand is added to the soil for an already formed bonsai. The grains of mountain sand have irregular shape, it is suitable for emerging trees. Sea sand cannot be used in soil mixtures. Sand in the soil mixture promotes drainage and the growth of fine roots. When a thin root encounters a piece of sand on its way during growth, it bifurcates to bypass the obstacle. As a result, the number of thin roots increases and the tree better absorbs water, oxygen and nutrients.

3. Humus (humus) consists of decomposed plant residues, has a dark color and a spongy structure. Natural humus in pure form- This is heather land. It is very acidic (pH 3), contains silicon and is formed as a result of the slow decomposition of plants in an environment deprived of oxygen. Humus is very important because it has the real ability to release and accumulate nutrients.

Components that can be added to soil for potted plants.

1. Perlite is expanded natural glass, the acidity is approximately 7. When watering, perlite absorbs moisture (when watering with liquid fertilizers, it also absorbs nutrients) and then gradually releases them to the roots. Perlite provides good drainage, is able to draw moisture from the lower layers to the upper ones, and helps the root system develop evenly in the pot. Perlite should be washed before adding to the soil.

2. Vermiculite is a mineral from the group of hydromicas with a layered structure. Vermiculite is able to absorb a large amount of moisture when watering, and then slowly release it. At the same time, it does not absorb moisture from the air. Neutral to the action of alkalis and acids.

3. Zeolite (or tuff) is a natural mineral of volcanic origin, penetrated by numerous channels, giving it the properties of a kind of sieve. Adding a zeolite sieve to the soil increases its aeration, retains sufficient water, and “captures” and retains nutrients from the fertilizer, which provides better nutrition to the root system. Zeolite can be purchased as a mineral supplement for animals (chickens), and used for most plants.

Basic rules for compiling soil mixtures.

1. For coniferous species: 1/3 humus, 1/3 leaf soil, 1/3 river sand.
2. For deciduous trees: 1/2 leaf soil, 1/2 river sand.
3. For fruit and flowering trees: 1/2 leaf soil, 1/2 compost.
4. For trees growing in heather (acidic) soils (azaleas and rhododendrons): 1/2 heather soil, 1/4 compost, 1/4 peat.

Bonsai is an art that came from Japan. Indoor bonsai is a miniature tree growing in a small bowl. This exact copy of a real tree, usually at a scale of 1:100. In this article you will be able to understand what bonsai is and how to form it at home.

Fruiting bonsai

Bonsai is not just a miniature tree. It has characteristic features: thickened trunk, correctly formed crown, height from 20 cm to 2 m. This is a full-fledged tree, but in miniature. Translated from Chinese, "poong sai" means "tree in a bowl" - miniature copies have been grown for decades. And the older the tree, the more beautiful the pot it is transplanted into in Eastern countries.

As an art, bonsai originated in China as early as 200 BC. e. The Japanese brought it to perfection several centuries later. The hobby became widespread primarily among the common people. The lack of opportunity to plant a garden near the house was compensated by growing mini-trees.

Creating a bonsai at home is not difficult if you take proper care of it. The growth rate must be constantly regulated by pruning the root system. There are several styles of bonsai in art. Before growing a tree, you need to decide what kind of tree you would like to see on your windowsill.

Bonsai styles

The choice of container for the tree will depend on the style. Cascading or sloping styles require choosing a heavier, more stable bowl to support the weight of the sloping crown. There are many styles, of which the most commonly used are:

For beginners, it's best to start with the tekkan style. And if you manage to master the technique of growing bonsai, you can experiment with others.

Choosing a Bonsai Plant

Suitable for bonsai are trees and shrubs that acquire a lignified trunk and branches as they grow. You need to choose a plant that suits its surroundings. climatic conditions. It is better not to choose plants with large flowers, fruits, or leaves for creating miniatures.

Among the coniferous trees for bonsai, cypress, thuja, pine, juniper, and larch are often chosen. Deciduous trees - birch, maple, hornbeam, willow, oak. Flowering plants for bonsai look impressive: acacia, pomegranate, citrus fruits, peach, plum, magnolia.

Different types of trees are suitable for bonsai.

For indoor growing, it is better to choose non-deciduous plants that are able to develop all year round. Among indoor flowers, ficus, gardenia, dracaena, and cordyline are often used as a basis. For beginners, portulacaria africanica and ficus benjamina are ideal.

What you need for growing

To care for a bonsai you will need a set of certain tools. For a beginner, two or three main ones will be enough to form a crown.

1. Concave cutters are necessary for cutting wire and cutting branches right down to the trunk - so that there are no stumps or burrs left.
2. Convex nippers. With their help, unnecessary convex areas, parts of the trunk, and roots are removed from the trunk. The instrument, which has a spherical head, creates a cut that heals quickly.
3. Special scissors for cutting roots. Necessary when pruning thin roots. You can also use special nippers. They differ from convex ones in that they have a head that follows the contour of a sphere, but has a straight cutting edge.
4. Tweezers with a curved tip are necessary for removing excess buds, dead leaves, and plucking out pine needles.

When indoor bonsai become a permanent hobby, and not a short-term hobby, you can purchase a professional set of tools.

Growing Bonsai

Creating a bonsai begins with choosing a plant and preparing the container and soil for planting. Next, you will need to make efforts to achieve growth not of the crown, but of the trunk. Caring for bonsai involves not only planting the plant and forming the crown, but also observing other nuances.

Choosing a pot

Sloping styles require stable pots, such as clay or ceramic. The container should not violate the integrity of the composition. For bonsai with a dense, spreading crown or several trunks, choose wide, shallow bowls. For plants with bare roots, tall, narrow pots are suitable. Narrow and deep containers that resemble vases are suitable for cascading styles.

The pot should ensure the stability of the composition.

The height of the walls should be no less than the diameter of the trunk, the width should be 2/3 of the length of the plant. Bonsai pots must have drainage holes. If clay or ceramic containers do not have them, drill them yourself. The tree must be rooted in a standard deep container. The initial formation process takes about 2 years, after which the plant can be transplanted into a permanent bowl.

Bonsai soil

Growing bonsai requires poor soil. It slows down the growth of the plant. The optimal mixture consists of 1/3 clay, and half from peat or rotted leaves, the rest is filled with coarse sand or small stones.

For deciduous trees, it is better to take 7 parts of clay soil and 3 parts of sand. For flowering ones - 6 parts clay, 3 parts sand, 1 part leaf humus. For coniferous trees, a mixture of clay and sand is made in a ratio of 6:4. Before use, the sand must be washed and calcined in the oven. It can be partially replaced with vermiculite.

It is better to collect the soil yourself in April, when the snow has melted and the soil has almost thawed. Store-bought mixtures usually include peat and garden fertilizers, so the bonsai will grow intensively in them, but this is not necessary. Before use, the soil is disinfected by boiling it in a sieve and water for about 30 minutes or calcining it in the oven.

First planting

When planting, the tree must be buried in the soil to thicken the trunk. At the same time, trim the root system, leaving only the roots growing to the sides. This must be done in the future with each transplant. The formation of a horizontal root system is required to slow growth.

Rooting should take place in a shaded place - bonsai does not like direct sunlight. After planting, the soil needs to be watered and compacted, then the plant must be quarantined for 10 days. Bonsai is isolated from other plants, to open air if necessary, accustom gradually.

Accommodation

The required light intensity depends on the type of plant chosen. However, most trees do well in a well-lit location without direct sunlight. During the day, from 11.00 to 16.00, it is better to shade the plant and periodically turn different sides towards the light. This is necessary for uniform formation.

If the plant does not have enough light, the shoots will be thin, the petioles will be elongated, and the leaves will stretch towards the light. In this case, additional illumination with a fluorescent lamp or phytolamp will be required. Bonsai must be protected from drafts.

Watering

In a shallow container, the soil dries out faster than in standard pots. When planting, the soil is compacted, so it may not absorb moisture well. To ensure that the earthen ball is well saturated, the bonsai is usually watered using the immersion method.

To do this, dip the bowl completely into a container filled with water for a few seconds. If you water at the root, then until water begins to seep through the drainage holes into the pan. The excess is drained after half an hour.

In between waterings, the top layer of soil should dry out. In summer, it is necessary to water the bonsai often, sometimes daily, in winter - once a week, sparingly, to avoid overcooling of the soil. The frequency also depends on the needs of the plant - some species easily tolerate drought, while others instantly lose their turgor.

Blooming bonsai tree.

Water the bonsai in the morning or evening, avoiding water getting on the leaves in bright light. sunlight. Deciduous varieties require additional spraying. The water should be soft, filtered, rain and melted water are suitable. Its temperature should be several degrees higher than the air temperature in the room.

Top dressing

Bonsai should be fertilized throughout the year. In summer and autumn, fertilizing is applied once a week, in winter and autumn - once a month. A specialized fertilizer for bonsai or a regular one for indoor plants is suitable. It must be diluted in proportions that are 2-3 times weaker than those recommended by the manufacturer.

Bonsai should not be fed if the plant is weakened, has just been transplanted, or has been pruned. There is also no need to fertilize before or during flowering. Coniferous trees need to be fed 2 times less than other plants. Fertilizer is applied to the soil after watering.

Creating a wireframe

You need to start forming a style immediately after planting the tree in the primary pot. To give the plant the desired shape, use copper or aluminum wire. One end of the wire needs to be buried and strengthened in the soil, and then wrapped around the trunk and branches, forcing it to grow in a given direction. Its thickness should be the same as the branches.

Select 3 main branches on the tree. To form the required frame You will need additional pieces attached to the main wire. It should fit snugly to the trunk and branches, but not damage the bark. Its length should be at least 1.5 times the area to be wrapped.

For delicate branches, use thinner wire in the winding. The frame is removed from the branches after 6-8 months, but the wire from the trunk is removed no earlier than after 1.5-2 years. After this, the bonsai is transplanted into a permanent bowl.

Bonsai transplant

The first transplant of a young tree is done in the second year of growth, early spring. The plant is transplanted into a permanent bowl, again cutting off all the roots going down. Transfer time different varieties plants may vary, but usually the appearance of buds indicates the need. Flowering trees are replanted after the end of the flowering period - in the fall.

Pruning the root system during transplantation.

Transplantation and pruning of roots should be done when they have filled the entire pot. This can be understood by their germination into drainage holes. Before removing, the lump of earth must be moistened generously with water. If you remove the plant from the pot and realize that there is still room for roots to develop, do not cut them, just replace the soil.

When replanting, the taproot and thick roots are removed with pruning shears if the lateral roots are well developed. If the lateral roots are weak, then only part of the taproot is removed, and those growing to the sides are formed using wire. Thickened roots are left above the ground, which adds naturalness to the composition. The soil can be covered with a layer of green moss.

Bonsai formation

In order for an ordinary plant to acquire the characteristics of a bonsai, it is necessary to begin its formation after transplanting it into a permanent bowl. You can achieve a thicker trunk by slowing down the growth of the tree. To do this, resort to the following tricks:

• They make cuts on the trunk, reducing the flow of juices. The tree releases sap to heal wounds and this slows down its growth.
• The trunk is tied with wire at a short distance from the ground. Due to this, the trunk becomes thicker and the tree grows slower. The wire should only compress the upper tissues and interfere with the circulation of juice. When the trunk above it thickens, it is removed and transferred to another place.
• To form the crown, branches are pruned. Pinching and pruning are done in the spring or throughout the year, depending on the plant.

Trimming and pinching

In the spring, after new buds appear, all overlapping branches of the tree are cut off and young shoots are pinched at the level of 1-2 pairs of leaves. Flowering plants do not prune until the end of this period. The pruning tool is disinfected, and the cut areas are sprinkled with crushed coal.

Formation of a bonsai crown.

With intensive shoot growth, periodic pruning may be necessary throughout the year. The more often you do this, the thicker and smaller the crown will be. Use scissors to remove branches that are too long and interfere with the overall composition.

Bonsai is a fascinating art that can be learned at home. When the tree acquires the required shape and is planted in a permanent bowl, all that remains is to annually prune the branches and periodically replant.

Different types of plants require specific soil conditions. Before you begin to compile an earthen mixture, you need to understand some basic techniques.

A complete soil mixture intended for bonsai must meet the following requirements: retain moisture, contain minerals, oxygen to feed the roots for at least a year. The structure of the soil should provide drainage to avoid souring and rotting of thin roots.

On the other hand, the soil is designed to retain moisture so that the plant is provided with water.

A good earthen mixture is made up of granular clay with humus, humus and coarse sand - all mixed in proportions appropriate to each specific type soil, characterizing the growing conditions of a tree in natural conditions.

Bonsai soil components

Clay.It is highly hygroscopic and binds various other substances. Thanks to these properties, clay softens sudden changes in the soil that are unfavorable for the plant, for example, it absorbs excess water. Nutrients, primarily phosphates, are bound by clay, and their supply occurs evenly.

Main function of clay – accumulation of moisture when there is a lot of it, and release when the mixture dries. Unfortunately, regular clay becomes dense rather quickly due to its fine, almost powdery structure; hollow spaces disappear at the same time small sizes, which are very important for the respiration of the root system.

Therefore, preference is given to clay granules in the form of balls obtained by lightly firing the starting material. Such granulate retains its granular structure for one or two years and does not lose its buffering properties when the bonsai adapts to new conditions caused by the replacement of soil.

The Japanese (and not only) use several types of special clays. The best and most universal is “ Akadama"(by name of the area). This clay is a granular substrate consisting of particles 4–6 mm in size, capable of absorbing a lot of moisture and, most importantly, not getting wet in water, not sticking together and providing a loose, lumpy and perfectly breathable mixture. In our conditions, you can use small expanded clay . Its characteristics most closely correspond to clay granulate.

Instead of clay, you can take so-called meadow soil, which has a high content of loam and a porous structure of lumps.

Sand . Just like clay, it retains water, but unlike clay, which retains water inside its granules, sand retains water between the grains of sand due to the capillary effect. Sand helps maintain the moisture content of the soil mixture and stabilizes the lumpy structure. Sand is needed in two types - coarse and fine.

In the earthen mixture it plays a dual role: on the one hand, it promotes drainage, and on the other, the growth of fine roots. As a result, a tree growing in a limited space absorbs water, oxygen, and nutrients better. Coarse sand with a grain size of 3–4 mm is placed on the bottom of the container in a layer of 0.6–2 cm and provides drainage. Coarser sand can quickly become clogged with small particles of clay and stop allowing water to pass through, while fine sand will simply spill out through a mesh placed over the drainage holes. The standard cell size of such a mesh is 3 mm.

The lighter the soil (that is, the more permeable it is or the more sand), the less likely the roots will rot, but the more likely the plant will dry out. Perlite sand, which is excellent for cuttings, gradually collects on the surface in the substrate, as it is very light. As for expanded clay, which is widely sold or lying around on construction sites, then find it the right size almost impossible.

Lava . Used in granulate form. Lava contains microelements and retains air in the soil, which is of great importance for the respiration and gas exchange of the root system of the tree.

Peat . Serves to loosen the earth mixture and accumulate water. Peat is an organic substrate with no high content nutrients. It is acidic in nature (pH 4.5–5), but its acidity can be reduced to pH 6 by adding lime. Peat substrate has a very diverse structure. Coarse-fibered peat is not suitable for bonsai.

Picking land . As a rule, picking soil consists of fine-fiber peat and sand, as well as a small amount of nutrients. Other composition options are possible, for example with the addition of humus to peat and sand.

Humus - humus, leaf soil and so on. – supplier of nutrients. Humus is present in sufficient quantities in top layer soils of gardens and vegetable gardens (used only after disinfection). If it is still not enough, you can add leaf humus to the mixture. As a humus component, you can use leaf humus and rotted pine needles, peat, rotted bark, as well as quality compost with a high humus content.

Ready soil for indoor plants, which is widely available, is not suitable for bonsai as such! As a rule, such soil contains many tiny particles that disrupt the “bonsai” structure of the soil. In extreme cases, it can be used as an additive to the main soil.

Bonsai potting mix recipes

If it is not possible to purchase a ready-made soil mixture, you can get by with three components - coarse sand (fine gravel), clay and a humus component. The mixture - humus and sand containing humus, necessary for the normal development of all plants - is made up in the following proportion:

• 1) 2 parts each of clay, humus and fine-grained gravel or stone chips(coarse sand);
• 2) 3 parts clay, 5 parts humus and 2 parts sand;
• 3) 1 part clay, 5 parts humus and 2 parts sand;
• 4) 4 parts clay, 4 parts humus and 1 part sand.

The first two mixtures have a neutral acid-base reaction, the third soil mixture is characterized by high acidity (this, among other things, is good for the development of moss, which is indispensable in many compositions). You can reduce the acidity of the soil by adding calcium, which is mixed with organic fertilizer. Increased acidity lower with peat or rotted pine needles.

This is important! Coniferous species good drainage is necessary. Therefore, for these plants the following proportion of soil components is proposed: 6 parts of leaf humus to 1 part of sand. With this combination of components, the soil becomes looser and allows water to pass through better. To increase the looseness of the soil, sun-dried humus must be sifted, crushing small pieces.

Chemicals for bonsai

Recently, various plant growth regulators have become increasingly popular. They are mainly used to strengthen the immune system, improve survival rate during transplantation, rooting cuttings and germinating seeds.

Phytohormones

Auxin

Under common name“Auxins” refers to indolyl-3-acetic acid (IAA) and its derivatives, growth hormones found in plants. This acid has a second name - heteroauxin. The developing tissues of the above-ground part of the plant - young leaves, buds, and developing seeds - contain especially high amounts of auxins.

Some synthetic compounds have properties similar to IAA in their effects on plants. For example, indolyl-3-butyric acid (IBA), which is rare in plants, but, having auxin activity, accelerates the process of root formation. This also includes 1-naphthylacetic acid (1-NAA), its potassium salt (KANU), 2-naphthylacetic acid (2-NAA), 2, 4-dichlorophenoxyacetic acid (2, 4-D) and others. These substances are much more resistant to destruction and binding in plant tissues and have a long-lasting effect.

Use of auxins for vegetative propagation . Cuttings of not all plants take root well; in conifers, roots sometimes do not form at all. With the use of auxin, the situation can sometimes be significantly improved. Usually, it is not heteroauxin itself that is used, since it is quickly destroyed, but its synthetic substitutes, which were discussed above. These compounds are more stable and non-phytotoxic. Green or lignified cuttings from 2–3-year-old shoots are soaked in auxin solutions for 8–24 hours, immersing 1/3–1/2 of their length. The solution is prepared at the rate of 20–75 mg of the drug per 1 liter of water. You can use an aqueous-alcoholic solution of IBA. In this case, the lower part of the cutting is immersed in the solution for only 5 seconds. The solution is prepared in the following proportions: 0.5 l of water: 0.5 l of alcohol: 2.5–5 g of IBA.

For green cuttings and herbaceous plants a lower concentration of auxins is required. The treated cuttings are planted in the ground under a film until they are completely rooted. In this case, you need to monitor the humidity of the air and soil, periodically ventilate and provide protection from the sun.

Use of auxins during transplantation . Replanting for a plant is a lot of stress caused by damage or breakage of the suction ends of the roots. The faster the plant can restore its root system, the better its survival rate. It can be helped by using auxins. Root sections are treated with a paste of clay and peat with the addition of a stimulant. You can place the roots of the plant in their solutions for a day. It should be noted that in this case, conifers lose their mycorrhiza.

After planting, the root ball is watered with a solution of hormones at the rate of 5–10 mg per liter of water. The method of dusting the root system of trees with root, a synthetic analogue of heteroauxin, has become widespread before planting.

Bonsai is the art of growing small copies of nature’s creations of plant origin, which first conquered Japan and then the whole world. A skillful likeness of a selected representative of the flora is formed with one’s own hand, so this requires a lot of patience, time and knowledge. In this article we will tell you how to grow a bonsai tree at home and what care it requires.

Choosing a tree for bonsai

To grow without much hassle beautiful tree bonsai at home, it is best to choose for this one of the plants listed below, about which reviews from gardeners are extremely positive. The photos will help you see what such a green pet will look like.

• Indoor types of citrus fruits: lemon, ;

• Decorative varieties of apple trees;
• Barberry;
• Hawthorn;
• Maple.

These are just some of the most popular options. Growing bonsai can be done from a variety of plants that are found everywhere: in parks, forests, gardens. You can also purchase seedlings in nurseries. The price will depend on the type of tree chosen and its height.

Growing Bonsai from Seeds

There are two types of shrub and tree seeds suitable for exotic bonsai. One type of crop can be immediately used for germination, while the other part undergoes a period of hibernation, during which the sprout must wait out the cold season. Stratification at home will serve as an imitation of winter.

• For a period of 3-5 months, the seeds of the bonsai tree are placed in sphagnum moss or wet sand, then the container is put in the refrigerator. Positive temperature regime and a moist environment will help the seed prepare to grow. When it is placed in a warm place, the sprout will quickly awaken;
• You can grow bonsai from seeds from spring until the very beginning autumn season. For seedlings that grew at the end of summer, it is necessary to use lighting, which is indispensable in the autumn-winter period;
• To successfully germinate seedlings and make their first months of life easier, you need to take peat tablets, soaked and absorbed moisture, or a light sand-peat substrate. Until the sprouts appear, the container is kept under film in the dark. The air temperature depends on the type of tree being grown;
• The greenhouse must be ventilated to prevent rot and condensation. When the first shoots appear, presence in the room is necessary fresh air, then the seedlings are transferred to the light. If necessary, they are fertilized and watered using a complex composition.

The bonsai plant is replanted when it reaches 10-12 cm in height. In this case, the main root is shortened by 1/3 so that the green pet stops its vertical growth. The future trunk is immediately formed using copper wire.

Growing bonsai from cuttings

You can grow a bonsai with your own hands from cuttings. This method allows you to speed up the growth time compared to the previous option by almost a year. First you need to collect suitable cuttings. It is better to do this in the spring.

• Choose semi-woody or green shoots 5-10 cm in length and about 5 mm in diameter;
• Cuttings must be planted in sterile soil, additionally treated with hormonal powder (if possible).

A short master class on planting cuttings:

• Fill the bottom layer of a deep pot with a diameter of 15 cm about a quarter with a mixture of akadama and fine gravel in equal proportions;
• We fill the remaining space of the container soil mixture, suitable for the selected plant;
• We remove all the branches at the bottom of the cutting, cut thick branches at an angle;
• If desired, we treat the cuttings with a special hormonal powder, which can be bought in plant stores;

• We insert the seedlings into the soil, leaving a sufficient gap between them;
• Carefully water the soil;
• We remove the pot out of reach of direct sunlight so that young bonsai leaves do not get burned;
• Lightly moisten the soil, but do not flood it;
• It will take several weeks until germination occurs. It will be possible to plant the shoots in a year, and after another couple of years it will be possible to begin forming the bonsai crown.

How to choose soil and pot for a bonsai tree

It is advisable to plant home bonsai in a shallow and small container so that it does not grow to enormous sizes. At the same time, it is necessary to form and trim some of the roots.

The bonsai pot is chosen very carefully. It is taken into account that from year to year the plant will become heavier and may become unstable, especially if it has a cascading, inclined or irregular shape. Consequently, for the “green friend”, which ranges in size from a few centimeters to a meter, ceramic bowls, containers or pots are made, usually massive, of different shapes and styles. Their bottom should have several drainage holes used for exit excess moisture and for fastening the future tree.

Scalding with boiling water or a hot solution of potassium permanganate is very suitable for treating the pot. This will protect your Japanese bonsai from root fungus.

The soil helps the tree retain moisture and provides nutrition, and also thanks to the soil, the roots of the plant are anchored in a small pot. Therefore, in order to grow miniature copies of maples, oaks, lemons, lindens, etc., they resort to using a special substrate. This mixture, which is based on certain types of clay, is called akadama in Japan.

The granular substance is “flavored” with sand and fertile soil for good looseness and nutritional value:

• To grow flowering crops, take three parts of sand, seven parts of soil with turf and part of highly nutritious humus, which are mixed together;
• Deciduous bonsai trees grow well thanks to a substrate with three parts of washed coarse sand and seven parts of turf soil;
• Conifers love loose soil, consisting of two parts washed sand and three parts turf soil.

Before planting a bonsai, the soil must be sorted out and all excess that can damage the root system must be removed. The substrate is also sterilized and sifted, and drainage is made at the bottom of the container.

Bonsai crown formation

To give a miniature tree a beautiful fancy shape, copper wire is usually used.

• First, all the branches from the lower part of the trunk and all the “dry wood” are removed from the plant. Next, select three main branches on the crown, which visually form a triangle with equal sides, and remove all remaining branches between them. You can also leave 2 or 4 branches - it all depends on your desire;
• To bend the trunk, remove the top soil layer from the roots and carefully tilt the trunk to the required angle. One end of the soft wire is dug in and fixed in the ground at the base of the trunk from the inside of the bend. The trunk must be tightly but carefully wrapped with wire to the base of the remaining branches, so as not to damage or tear off the bark;

• You can also create bends in bonsai branches using thin braided wire so as not to touch delicate plant tissues;
• It is necessary to remove the wire from the trunk of a formed tree after a couple of years, otherwise it may return to its original state. The branches can be released after six months;
• To maintain the aesthetic appearance of your bonsai, do not forget to regularly trim long shoots that have grown beyond the crown perimeter and old foliage to allow new young leaves to grow.

Video: Bonsai pruning and crown formation

How to care for a tree at home

Your main goal is to successfully water the miniature crop. After all, a shallow pot filled with roots and a small volume of soil create certain difficulties. Best fit drip irrigation or irrigation, which will allow you to moisten the substrate under the plant in doses, without blurring.

Only settled, melted or soft water is suitable for irrigation. During the growing season, green pets require a lot of moisture, and in the fall, watering is reduced and becomes less frequent.

Miniature plants are great for mineral supplements based on algae, which are carried out every 2-3 weeks. You need to care for trees carefully, do not leave them without “food”, but most importantly, do not “overfeed”:

• IN spring season, with maximum growth, it is necessary to add 2 times more nitrogen to the fertilizer than phosphorus and potassium;
• In summer, the same proportions are used, but the concentration is reduced by 1/2;
• At the end of August, especially for deciduous crops, the content of phosphorus and potassium is increased by 2 times, and nitrogen is reduced;
• Fruiting and flowering shrubs, and trees require more potassium, which goes into the formation of ovaries and buds.

In winter, the tree requires the following care:

• In mild climates, plants are kept outdoors or on unheated terraces;
• In a small pot, the roots may be the first to suffer, so they are well covered and the substrate is dried a little;
• In spring, the bonsai flower awakens. Now it again needs to be watered, fed, and the crown and roots formed.

The video below will help you review the growing process. miniature plants more clearly. If you don’t want to wait a long time, you can buy an already formed tree. But its cost will be several thousand rubles. If you do not have the time and opportunity to carefully care for such a green pet, then make one, which, according to its aesthetic characteristics, will be no worse than a living one.

Video: How to care for a bonsai tree