Finishing the toilet with panels: list of materials and tools, preparation of the room, installation work, filling the sheathing and covering the ceiling. Finishing a toilet with PVC panels: interesting ideas (photo) Attaching plastic panels to the wall in the toilet

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 4 minutes

Not every home craftsman can install tiles in the bathroom himself. That is why many people prefer to resort to a simpler way to improve this room - to make plastic panels. The main advantage of the designs of this type– assembly according to the principle of a designer, which allows you to easily and without loss disassemble the panels if necessary. Design features This type of finish allows oxygen to circulate freely, which is fundamentally important in conditions of high humidity.

Advantages of choosing PVC panels

Low price, which varies depending on the quality of the material and the prestige of its manufacturer, but generally remains affordable.
If the installation work is not carried out independently, then you will have to pay much less for the services of a specialist than for laying ceramic tiles or, for example, natural stone.
Resistant to humidity fluctuations. Plastic is not afraid of drops of water, temperature changes, mold, fungi. Even if the material is used in an unheated room, there will be no deformation or loss of brightness of colors.
Reliable manufacturers guarantee that their products will retain all their properties for a quarter of a century.
Easy to use and maintain. Plastic panels can be easily washed from dirt using a soap solution.

Have plastic trim and a few disadvantages:

Installing plastic panels will still steal some space from the toilet, which does not happen when painting or wallpapering.
Vinyl does not burn easily, but if it starts to melt, it emits acrid, toxic smoke.
By choosing plastic trim from unscrupulous sellers, you can purchase a low-quality product that will be very fragile and brittle.

In the video you can see the results of repairs in the toilet when it was PVC finishing panels:

Examples of DIY toilet repairs using plastic panels are shown in the photo below.

Cost of repairing a toilet using plastic panels

If you have not decided what is better - to renovate the bathroom yourself or order a turnkey toilet repair service, keep in mind that in Moscow such renovation with plastic panels will cost you 11-13 thousand rubles, in St. Petersburg – 9–11 thousand rubles. In regions, prices may differ quite significantly.

Choosing panels for finishing the toilet

PVC is an incredibly flexible material that bends at an angle of more than 90⁰. You can check the quality of the material by taking the panel from different ends with your hands and starting to bend it. High-quality plastic will bend into a ring.
Take a sniff of the material you buy. Your nose should not smell anything, because high-quality plastic is devoid of any odors.
Narrower panels are easier to correctly level; wide ones will leave a lot of unnecessary trimmings.
All quality products have appropriate certificates. Their absence from the seller should make you suspicious.

Advice. When purchasing PVC panels, always take a small supply of several elements. After all, if during the installation process it turns out that your initial calculations were erroneous, it may turn out that this particular model is no longer available.

We install plastic panels in the toilet

Covering a toilet with your own hands using plastic panels is not at all a difficult task if you have the desire and a supply of free time.

Before going to the store, recalculate the area of future installation, add another 15% to the resulting figure for the cuts.

Required materials and tools

Before installing plastic panels in the toilet, you need to stock up on useful equipment. You will need:

PVC panels, as well as the edging profile for them;
aluminum or plastic profile;
hydraulic level;
self-tapping screws;
screwdriver and drill;
cutting tool;
drawing tool.

Preliminary work

Before installing the plastic trim, perform the following steps:

We remove old finishes from the walls.
If possible, we change old wiring And water pipes.
We treat the walls with a primer mixture.
If you plan to install cabinets, shelves, and accessories in the room, we install additional strips under them.
The material must be brought into the apartment several hours before the start of work so that its temperature is equal to the temperature in the room.

The modern market of finishing materials offers many practical solutions for finishing bathrooms. Until recently, those who were planning to renovate their toilet had only two options - painting the walls or tiling them. Now you can choose from several available options, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages.

In today's article we would like to tell you about one of the easiest and most convenient ways to decorate walls and ceilings in a bathroom - plastic panels. You will learn about the features of this finishing material, the basic principles of working with it, as well as how to choose the right plastic panels for the toilet.

Pros

First, let's look at positive aspects using plastic panels as finishing material for the bathroom. The list of advantages of these products is quite impressive:

Low price. This method of surface finishing is one of the most cost-effective. It would be cheaper to paint with water-based emulsion.
Easy to install. Plastic panels do not require special repair skills. Even those who have undertaken repairs for the first time can cope with their installation.
Fast installation. Installation of one PVC panel takes just a few minutes. Since bathrooms usually have very small area, all the work will take you very little time.
No need for surface preparation. There is no need to level or plaster the walls for plastic panels.
Low maintenance requirements. PVC is a waterproof material that perfectly withstands wet cleaning and contact with various detergents. Therefore, keeping the walls in the toilet clean will not be difficult.
Wear resistance. Despite the fact that plastic is a fragile material, if you do not subject it to strong mechanical stress, PVC panels will last you quite a long time.

Cons

However, plastic panels have not only positive aspects. Negative qualities This finishing material does not have many, but they are still present, so one cannot remain silent about them. So, the disadvantages of PVC panels are:

Instability to heat and fire. Plastic panels are deformed under the influence high temperature, therefore you should not place heaters and heated towel rails close to them. In addition, plastic is not a fire-resistant material: it can catch fire if it comes into contact with fire. Therefore, you need to be careful when smoking in the toilet.
Large dimensions. At first glance, it seems that the plastic panels are absolutely flat, but in fact they can be up to 2 cm thick. In addition, a few more centimeters of space are often “eaten up” if the walls in the room are uneven. For large bathrooms this is not critical, but in small toilets this can become a real problem, as it will not allow the tiny area to be used to the maximum.

Types of panels

Plastic panels intended for finishing walls and ceilings in the bathroom come in several varieties.

Leafy

The most popular type is sheet panels, which are rectangles from one to one and a half meters long. The thickness of such panels is 0.3-0.6 cm. They can be plain, with ornaments or imitation natural structures- wood or stone. It is most convenient to work with sheet panels due to their large dimensions.

Rack and pinion

Slatted panels for finishing bathrooms are used much less frequently. They are most often used for outdoor work or large premises. This type of plastic panels looks like long narrow strips. The length of such panels is from 4.4 to 3.7 meters, and the width is from 12 to 30 cm. Slat panels imitating wooden beams look especially impressive.

Stacked tiles

The least common type of plastic panels are type-setting tiles. They are squares different sizes, which allows you to lay out various patterns on the walls and ceiling, like a mosaic. The elements are connected through grooves in the panels, and everything is held together with special glue or clamps.

If you want to purchase a product with maximum strength, choose plastic panels with a thickness of at least 0.8 cm. In addition, pay attention to the number of “ribs” on inside– they give additional rigidity.
The quality of plastic panels can be determined by its appearance. Take a close look at the front of the product: the paint should be applied evenly, and the design, if there is one, should be clearly printed.
As with wallpaper, the color of the same wall panels and different batches may vary by several shades. Therefore, buy products only from one batch.

The high cost of wall panels does not always indicate the same high quality, so price should not be the determining factor when choosing. However, material that costs significantly less than its counterparts from other manufacturers is usually not made in good faith.

Preparation and stages of repair

Before you begin finishing the toilet with plastic panels, you should carry out some preliminary work. By this stage of the repair, you already need to install a toilet, level the floor, lay it with ceramic tiles or cover it with linoleum.

Experts advise preparing plastic panels for installation and further exploitation by treating them with an antiseptic. This will protect the material from exposure to heat and moisture, so there is no need to worry about the appearance of fungus and mold.

Stage 1. Installation of the side posts, which will serve as the basis for the frame.
Stage 2. Lathing the structure with slats and cross members.
Stage 3. Attaching plastic fittings.
Stage 4. Cutting and installing plastic panels.

Basic principles and installation

Let's consider each of the above stages of work in more detail.

One rack should be placed in each corner of the room. At the same time, they should not be in contact with the floor and ceiling, so we place some material between the racks and surfaces. After the structure is fixed with screws, the temporary support will need to be removed. The side posts must be placed plumb so that they are strictly parallel. We maintain a step of 0.3-0.4 meters between fasteners (we use screws as fasteners).
The sheathing of the side posts is done with wooden blocks along the perimeter of the structure at the top and bottom. The fasteners should be screwed in at an angle of 45 degrees - this way we can securely fix two slats at once. Next, the slats need to be secured to the walls using self-tapping screws. This is the main frame, which, if necessary, can be supplemented with side posts or cross slats. Step between frame elements should be about 0.5 meters.
We nail the plastic fittings to the frame using nails and a hammer. The fittings need to be cut at an angle of 45 degrees - this way it will fit more tightly. Since PVC panels are quite flexible, we install fittings, including in the corners. If there is a gap between the slats and the wall, fill it with scraps of plastic, then hammer in a nail. Nails for installation should be selected with large flat heads. In order not to damage the plastic elements when driving nails, the final blows are performed not on the head, but on the protective attachment (for example, you can use a nail).
Final stage, at correct installation frame and fittings, takes very little time. We cut plastic panels using a hacksaw. At the same time, the size of each sheet should be a centimeter and a half less than the space prepared for it, since the missing length is compensated by plastic fittings. We insert the cut sheet into the grooves and attach it to the slats. We insert the next sheet into the previous one, then also nail it to the crossbars.

Plastic panels are becoming more and more popular due to the combination of their positive qualities, which suit the majority of consumers. These include an aesthetic appearance, a variety of colors and patterns, easy cleaning, practicality and affordable cost. This type of finishing is especially suitable for places that require compliance with strict sanitary standards, such as the bathroom and toilet. In addition to bathrooms, PVC panels are also used to decorate the walls and ceilings of hallways, as well as balconies and loggias.

Finishing a toilet with plastic panels is the best option for those apartment owners who are starting renovations, but are faced with budget limitations. There is a double benefit here: in addition to the fact that the material belongs to a generally accessible price category, its installation can be done on our own. No need additional costs inviting craftsmen is also an important advantage of plastic panels over other types of finishing.

How to choose high-quality plastic panels?

Due to the fact that this finishing material is in great demand, it is offered for sale in a wide variety. At the same time, the assortment of stores may contain both high-quality products and products from not particularly conscientious manufacturers. Just looking at plastic panels with the naked eye, it is quite difficult to determine their quality, so when choosing this material it is recommended to follow some tips. They will allow you to choose a material that will correspond to the declared characteristics and service life.

The material used for the manufacture of finishing panels must contain additives that improve the elasticity of the products. Thanks to them, the panels bend relatively easily and are quite difficult to accidentally damage by careless movement. If the plastic is fragile and loses its strength and shape when pressed or with a slight impact, then these are low-quality panels. They will not last long, and the finished walls will quickly lose their respectable appearance during use.

— Try pressing on the edge of the panel with two fingers. Internal stiffeners should not bend or deform, and visible dents on the surface are unacceptable.

A high-quality panel, when compressed with your fingers, should not be dented, and the internal stiffeners should not be deformed

— You should try to bend the mounting strip of plastic located along the edge of the panel and forming a docking lock. The material is not something that should not break off - in high-quality panels this strip should return to its original state, without leaving a mark along the bend line.

Prices for plastic panels

plastic panels

— It is necessary to inspect the outer plane of the panel very carefully. Through top layer The plastic should not be visible or the internal stiffeners should protrude, that is, the surface should be smooth and uniform.

Plastic should not emit unpleasant chemical odors. If they are present, then it is better to discard such panels immediately. Surely the manufacturer, in order to minimize the cost of production, used low-quality raw materials or violated installed technology production. During operation, such finishing will emit fumes that are harmful to the health of the residents of the apartment or house. Such panels, without any doubt, should be classified as low-quality products.
PVC panels are produced in various widths. For small room For a toilet, it is not profitable to purchase panels that are too wide, as a lot of waste will remain. However, a lot depends on the specific dimensions of the panels themselves, the toilet, and the need for installation decorative box to hide communications from other specific conditions. If the owner has spatial imagination, then he will be able to imagine in advance what width of the panels will be optimal.

When choosing a finishing material, it is recommended without any hesitation to request from the seller a certificate that indicates the manufacturer and indicates the compliance of the panels with all technical, sanitary and fire safety standards. If the staff point of sale cannot or refuses to provide certification documentation for the products sold, thereby the right decision will contact another hardware store.

Preparation for finishing work

In order for the work on finishing the toilet room to be successful, it is necessary to carefully prepare for it. Before installation itself, you will need to take measurements and purchase necessary materials, prepare the necessary tools, perform some measures for processing wall surfaces.

Taking measurements and purchasing materials

The first step is to take measurements of the room. The goal is to determine the area of surfaces to be finished and the amount of finishing material. It is very important to immediately calculate the number of fitting profiles that will be required:

— for the design of internal and external corners;

— for finishing the junctions of plastic lining to the flow line and floor;

- for installation of cabinets, doors, inspection windows - if this is intended in the finishing plan.

The choice of these profile elements will depend on design idea, the size of the room, as well as the technique of installing panels in certain areas.

It is recommended to purchase 15% more of the finishing material itself, that is, plastic panels, than the area measurements showed - some will definitely go into scraps, and in addition, the possibility of accidental damage or an incorrect cut cannot be ruled out, especially if there is insufficient experience in carrying out such work.

You will need material for installing the sheathing. Since the toilet usually has a small area, the owners have to save every centimeter. Therefore, it is advisable to choose a metal profile or wooden slats for the frame with a cross-sectional size of 20 × 50 mm. The number of slats can be easily calculated locally, based on the height and width of the walls, keeping in mind that the guide battens should be positioned in increments of 500÷600 mm. In addition, the sheathing elements for the decorative box hiding the pipes (if it is planned), as well as for the ceiling frame (if paneling is planned there too), are calculated separately.

To fix the beam on the wall, you will need dowels with such a length that they enter the wall 50÷60 mm. Their number is also determined by the step with which the guide battens will be fixed with their help. Usually it is 450÷500 mm.

To secure the plastic panels to the frame, you need to prepare self-tapping screws 15÷20 mm long (depending on the type of sheathing - wood or metal). When installing panels according to wooden slats A construction stapler with 10÷12 mm staples is often used.
In the case where the walls are perfectly smooth (which is extremely rare even in panel houses), you can save space and do without lathing at all. In such conditions, panels can be glued directly to the surface of the walls. For such installation, glue such as “liquid nails” or even one of the tile adhesives is used.
If used wooden sheathing, then it would be useful to purchase funds for pre-treatment structural parts, which will protect them from rotting.
You will need a primer for the ceiling and walls of the toilet. It will increase the strength of the finished surfaces and reduce the likelihood of mold colonies or insect nests appearing in the closed space between the main wall (ceiling) and the finishing material.

Tools for installation work

To carry out preparatory and finishing work, you will need to prepare a certain set of tools.

with a set of bits.
A hammer drill or electric drill with a perforation function.
Drills for wood and concrete of different diameters.
Electric or manual jigsaw.
Metal scissors, if used in the design metal profile.
Hammer.
Construction (stationery) knife.
Tape measure and construction square.
Pencil and marker for marking.
Construction stapler.
Building level with vertical and horizontal indicator.
To prepare wall surfaces, you may need spatulas, a hair dryer, a roller and a brush for applying primer.

When everything necessary for work is ready, you can proceed to preparing the room for the installation process.

Preparing room surfaces for finishing

Preparing the surfaces of the toilet room for finishing with plastic panels is as follows:

To prevent the creation of a favorable environment for the appearance of insects and mold stains under the finishing material, in an enclosed space, it is recommended (if any) to remove peeling paint. A metal spatula is used for cleaning.

If it is necessary to free the walls from wallpaper, and they are securely fixed to the surface, then it is recommended to apply it to them using a roller. warm water, and this needs to be done several times. In those areas where the wallpaper begins to warp from moisture, you can begin removing it.

It is not necessary to completely remove the paint; the main thing is to remove it in those areas where it has peeled off from the wall surface.
Next, the cleaned walls are marked and at the same time the number and height or length of the sheathing slats are determined. Here it is necessary to clarify that if the lining panels are planned to be installed vertically, then the timber under it is fixed horizontally at a distance of 600 mm from each other. In case horizontal installation finishing material, the frame guides are fixed to the wall vertically. Be sure to install the sheathing parts at the bottom of the wall, 20–30 mm from the floor and along the top of the wall along the line of fastening the sheathing under the ceiling sheathing or at the junction of the wall and ceiling.

If the sheathing will be mounted from wood, then the next step is to prepare the frame slats. They are cut to size and then processed, and all surfaces need to be processed, including the end sides, that is, the cuts. After applying the composition, they must be left until completely dry. This work is best done on the balcony, where there is access to air, and the space is slightly larger than the area of the toilet.

While the wooden frame elements are drying on the balcony, you can begin antiseptic treatment of the walls and ceiling of the toilet. Priming is done using a roller with a fluffy attachment or a wide brush. IN hard to reach places A narrower brush may be required.

The primer is absorbed and dries quickly enough, within a few hours, so there will be enough time to apply two layers of this composition and wait for them to dry completely to guarantee.

Primer prices

primer

The primer can be transparent or opaque. If thick is selected white composition, then marking the walls should be done after the treated surfaces have dried.
If during the renovation it is planned to replace the toilet, then it is more advisable to dismantle the old one before fixing the sheathing.

Wall cladding with plastic panels

When the site for further installation is completely ready, and the marking lines are clearly visible on it, you can proceed first to fastening the sheathing, and then to the finishing material itself.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	The first step is always to attach the guides to flat sections of the walls, and only after that are vertical and horizontal frames built around the areas where communications pass, as well as protruding corners. In slats (beams), at a distance of 500÷600 mm from each other, using electric drill and wood drills, holes are drilled through which the frame elements will be fixed to the wall. The holes must have a diameter corresponding to the diameter of the dowel.
	Next, the timber with the holes is applied to the line marked on the wall, and through the hole located approximately in the middle of the guide (along the length), a drill with a concrete drill is used to mark the attachment point. Then the beam is removed, and the hole is deepened to the length of the dowel.
	After this, the beam is placed back against the wall and a dowel with a screw installed in it is driven through it into the hole in the wall. First, only one fastener is driven in so that the timber can be leveled.
	Next, the timber is leveled to the building level and the remaining points of attachment to the wall are outlined, the corresponding holes are drilled, and dowels are driven into them. Similarly, on flat areas of the wall, all load-bearing elements battens.
	If, when marking, distortions are found on the surface of the wall, then the sheathing is leveled using additional pads installed between the beam and the wall.
	Quite often in the layout of old houses in the bathrooms there is a window in the upper part of the wall for natural lighting. If you do not plan to use this opening as a niche-shelf, then the framing parts (platbands) are removed from it, and frame guides can be attached to the frame with self-tapping screws.
	This illustration clearly shows how the guide battens should be secured to smooth walls this small room.
	Probably, in order not to disrupt the demonstration of the sequence of work, we should briefly consider the dismantling and installation of ceramic floor tiles. So, after fixing the sheathing elements, the old covering is removed from the floor. To do this, you can use a hammer drill with a specific attachment in the form of a chisel. Along with the tiles, the mortar on which it was laid is also removed. After removing construction debris from the floor, the surface must be cleaned as much as possible of various protrusions. If necessary, the floor is leveled with a self-leveling compound.
	The next step is to build a sheathing for a decorative box around the vertically running sewer riser, as well as the sewer pipe running along the back wall of the toilet. This frame element can be made in different ways. In the illustration shown, it is made of short lengths of timber, joined at right angles, and fixed to straight sections of sheathing walls.
	The frame of the decorative box can also be constructed from a metal profile. Installed vertical racks and are firmly attached to each other horizontal jumpers. The design is derived from the shape of a communication unit, consisting of a sewer and water riser.
	The jumpers are made from the same metal profile, fixed from the inside of the frame. The frame of the box is mounted and screwed to a beam fixed to the wall using self-tapping screws.
	This version of the box frame, built from vertical timber, which is fastened together by horizontal jumpers and connected to the sheathing fixed to the wall, is a more rigid and reliable structure. In addition, it will be more comfortable to attach finishing material to wooden guides.
	This version of the box is especially convenient if pipes also run along the side wall, and meters for hot and cold water are installed in them. The horizontal sheathing is connected to the beam on the wall and the frame of the vertical box using self-tapping screws, and, if necessary, for greater rigidity, also using metal corners.
	Another option for the design of a box made of a metal profile and timber. In this case, the timber is a material that imparts rigidity to the frame, and the metal profile is more plastic than wood. You can cut it and construct a more compact box from it by slightly cutting off the corner. This is especially true when connections at angles other than straight are required.
	The illustration shows what this version of a box frame looks like without finishing with decorative panels. This design is well suited for cladding in which a corner fitting will not be used - the panel will smoothly bend horizontally installed elements metal sheathing.
	A horizontal box frame structure along the back wall of the room, above the sewer pipe, is best done together with the entire sheathing. However, some craftsmen work according to their own installation system and prefer to install it after the finishing material has already been attached to the main frame.
	This frame is made of wooden beams, necessarily treated with antiseptic impregnation. The front vertical side of this frame is the frame onto which the decorative trim will be attached.
	Another version of the frame, which is made of a metal profile. It can be called more acceptable in this case, since the structure will be located near pipes and plumbing fixtures, on which condensation moisture may appear due to temperature changes. However, it should be remembered that it is more convenient to mount the panels on wooden blocks, so wooden slats are often screwed on top of the metal.
	When the floor area is prepared and limited by the horizontal and the base of the vertical frame, you can proceed to tiling the surface. The first step is to try on the central row of tiles - it should be placed strictly in the center of the room, at the same distance from the walls.
	Using a marker, guide lines are drawn along the edges of the laid tiles, along which the finishing material will be laid.
	Next, according to the markings made, the tiles are laid on tile adhesive. To maintain a uniform seam width, special plastic calibration crosses are used.
	When laying a tile covering, its surface must be constantly controlled with a building level so that it remains in a horizontal plane. The illustration shows a finished, tiled floor surface with the tile joints already grouted. The floor is finished - you can proceed directly to the installation of plastic panels.
	Now, before installation begins, the panels are adjusted in length and width, according to the location of the middle border and its pattern (if there is one).
	It is more difficult to match panels with single fragments of a pattern, parts of which are located on different panels and when docked they are assembled into a whole element. To make the decoration look neat and aesthetically pleasing, it is necessary to accurately combine the floral or geometric pattern, as well as border lines.
	Installation of the trim on the sheathing can be carried out using fitting corner profiles or without their use. Starting guides are required in any case, since without them the overall appearance of the finish will look sloppy. Are fixed plastic profiles to the sheathing beam using staplers. Fixation is carried out in increments of 150÷200 mm.
	Profiles are produced only in white, so they are not suitable for all colors of finishing materials, and that is why some craftsmen prefer to do without them in some cases. This photo shows an option for joining two panels in the corner of the room, which fit perfectly to each other without the use of corners.
	If the decision is made to abandon the corner profiles, then the first panel, which is installed on the frame sheathing of the box, is first fixed with “liquid nails” and then screwed with 15÷20 mm self-tapping screws with wide heads.
	The installation of panels begins from the corner of the room, and the verticality of the first panel in the row, before its final fastening, is carefully verified to the building level. Therefore, first the self-tapping screw is screwed into the sheathing beam in the middle part of the panel height, and the edge is adjusted to the level. Well, then the panel is finally fixed to the remaining elements of the sheathing. The evenness and neatness of the entire wall cladding will depend on the correct installation of the first panel. If the panels are installed unevenly, then the existing pattern on their surfaces may not match.
	If one of the walls has completely flat surface, and the panels will be installed on it without lathing, then they can be glued using “liquid nails” or with cement-based tile adhesive.
	“Liquid” nails are applied to the wall in strips 10÷15 mm thick. If tile adhesive is used, it is spread with a notched trowel with a ridge height of 5 mm over the entire surface under the panel.
	If a whole panel falls at the junction of sheathing areas that make up different planes, then it is first joined to a previously fixed panel without fixation, and then the cut line is measured in place. This process must be done in this way because the outer corner may not be even enough. It happens that after cutting out the excess part of the panel exactly along the measured lines (without real adjustment “in place”, focusing solely on the results of linear measurements), its edge in one place may coincide with the corner protrusion, but not in another, so it will be damaged. After cutting out the excess fragment, the panel is fixed to the sheathing.
	The outer corner can be closed with a regular corner, which is glued to “liquid nails”. Another option is to disguise it with the so-called outer corner molding, which has special grooves. Glue is applied to their internal surfaces, and then the edges of the joining panels are inserted into the grooves.
	Pipes located on the side walls are covered with short sections of panels. Often craftsmen prefer to close them with sliding doors, which will be discussed later.
	If water meters are installed on one of the side walls, then they cannot be closed completely, so the craftsmen resort to two options - either a small window with an opening door, or sliding panels. The second method is more practical, as it allows you to control the entire space, and if an emergency occurs, it can be eliminated without dismantling the entire structure.
	Sliding doors (there can be two or more of them) are made from ordinary panels. They are installed in profiles fixed along the top and bottom of the opening with two or three guide channels (grooves). The type of profile, of course, will depend on the number of doors, since each of them must have its own space for free movement.
	To make it easier to move such sashes, they are equipped with conventional internal plastic door handles, which are carefully glued into the cut hole.
	The decorative box located behind the toilet, along the back wall, also needs to be covered with plastic lining panels of the required length. To keep the trim looking neat, starter molding is glued to the bottom timber of the front frame and then stapled and stapled into place.
	The next step is to cut out the cover for this box from the panel, try it on, determine the location of the outlet of the water connection hose to the drain tank, and cut a hole for it. Then “liquid” nails are applied to the beam, and the top panel of the decorative box is glued. In this case, a flexible connection (hose) must first be installed and “packed” for cistern, and pulled through the hole in the lid.
	Next, the necessary fragments are cut out of the panels for lining the front side of the box. This part is assembled into a single piece, tried on in place, and then a hole is marked on it for the outlet of the sewer pipe for connection to the toilet. After this, a cut is made in the middle of one or along the edges of two panels. In addition, the window is marked, which allows monitoring the condition of the pipes passing inside the box. The protruding edge of the lock is cut off from the extreme left or right panel so that it fits closely with the main wall decoration.
	The next step is to install the panels into the starting bottom bar and screw them to wooden elements boxes The joint between horizontal and vertical panels is covered decorative corner, which is glued to “liquid” nails. After this, the finished frame with the door is glued into the hole.
	Separately, it is necessary to say about the design of a vertical box using a wide 500 mm panel, since in this case there will be no need for auxiliary corners, and the design will look elegant. In order to see the necessary cutouts in the panel, which are made on its reverse side, this illustration, as an example, shows a small section of it mounted on racks metal frame boxes
	In order for this finishing option to look neat, exact dimensions are taken from the sides of the box, that is, their width is measured. These parameters are then transferred to the back of the panel. The marking points will be the middle of the cut strip. 15 mm are measured from the marked points in both directions, that is, the distance for bending should be three channels between the ribs located inside the panel.
	After marking, lines are drawn along the entire length of the panel, along which cuts are made using a stationery knife. Only the back side of the panel is cut, while the front side remains intact. After this, the cut strip is completely removed along with the ribs, while back side the front panel is left with 3÷4 mm of ribs. This work is not very convenient to carry out, but it must be done very carefully without damaging the front surface of the panel.
	Once these cuts are made, the panel will easily bend along the intended lines. After attaching it to the frame of the box, you will get a neat finish without joints or corners.
	Moreover, in this option, all the corners of the box will be rounded, which will also add elegance to the interior design, especially if high-quality panels are chosen.
	One more point that also needs to be clarified. If a shelf is mounted near the vertical box shown above, installed on top of the masking pipe of the rear box-shaped structure, then in order for the cut to be made accurately, first an exact pattern of smooth corner rotation is adjusted from paper. Then the template is laid on the panel from which the box lid will be cut, outlined, after which the necessary cut is made along this line.
	Next, it is necessary to briefly consider the installation of the frame and the arrangement of the ceiling cladding with decorative panels. This work can be carried out during the installation of the main wall frame, or after covering the surface of the walls with plastic panels. The lathing can be attached directly to the main ceiling or to the walls in the form of a frame. In the latter case, the timber attached to the walls will become the basis of the suspended ceiling.
	The beam is mounted in the same way as the sheathing elements for wall cladding. It is fixed along the top line decorative finishing walls
	In a toilet room, common in city apartments, a similar design may look like the one shown in this illustration.
	The next step is to bottom part glue is applied to the timber and “liquid” nails are glued onto starting profile, into which the cladding panels will be installed. The starting profile is attached to three walls of the room - on the side walls and on the one from which the installation of panels will begin. This can be either the back wall or the one in which the front door is located.
	The glued profile is additionally fixed to the beam using a stapler and staples, which are installed at a distance of 150÷200 mm from each other.
	Once the frame for the ceiling is ready, you can begin preparing and installing the ceiling panels. First, they are marked and cut into the required size.
	The edge of the first panel (mounting tenon) is cut off so that the panel fits tightly, throughout its entire thickness, into the starting profile. The panel is installed with its ends in the side profiles, and the side with the cut tenon - in the one that is fixed to the rear (or front) wall.
	The installed panel is screwed to the sheathing bars using self-tapping screws with wide heads.
	You need to immediately decide on the location of the recessed lamps, since it is much more convenient to install them at a time when the ceiling is not yet completely covered with cladding.
	In order to make holes in the ceiling lining for installing spotlights, a core drill with a diameter corresponding to the size of their legs is used. For a small toilet room, one or two lamps will be enough. If its area is large enough, then three or four lighting elements are installed.
	Before installing the lamps in the sockets cut out in the panels, the power cables are connected to them.
	Lighting fixtures are installed in holes in the plastic trim and then assembled into a single circuit. Connection to the power supply should be made only after complete installation of all finishing.
	The problem is always installing the last panel in the finish. Each master chooses his own method of installation. In this case, it is proposed to make it slightly wider than the remaining distance - 10÷15 mm. Then, a starting profile is put on the edge, which will be fixed to the frame beam. Liquid nails glue is applied to the timber. After this, the last panel is inserted into the groove of the previous cladding element, and its ends into the grooves of the side starting profiles. Well, the molding, put on its cut edge, is glued to a strip of “liquid nails” applied to the frame beam.
	Further, the lamps can be connected to a common electrical system apartments. The process of installing lighting elements and connecting them to the power supply, if there is not enough experience in electrical work, it is best to entrust it to an experienced specialist.
	If we are talking about a toilet, then a few words need to be said about installing and attaching the toilet to the floor. First of all, this accessory is installed close to back wall or to a box mounted along it. In addition, during preliminary fitting, you need to make sure that the sewer pipe pipe is opposite the toilet outlet pipe.
	Next, use a marker to mark the exact location of the toilet on the tile, as well as the points for drilling holes to secure it.
	The next step is to temporarily remove the toilet to the side, and drill holes according to the marks to secure it. The depth of the holes must be at least 60÷70 mm, and their diameter must correspond to the size of the dowel that comes with the toilet.
	Next, plastic dowel plugs are driven into the holes in the floor. The toilet is being installed. The holes in its leg should line up with the holes in the floor. Often at this same stage it is necessary to immediately connect the toilet outlet pipe to the sewer pipe. Then, mounting screws with silicone gaskets are installed in the aligned holes, which will separate the ceramics from the metal. If you do not install gaskets, the toilet leg may crack when tightening the screws.
	It is also impossible to overtighten the mounting screws, as this will create tension in the material, and it may eventually crack or even chip. After tightening the fasteners, the caps of the fastening elements are closed with special masking caps, which are usually included in the kit supplied by the manufacturer to the toilet.
	After fixing and connecting the toilet to the sewer pipe, assembling the flush cistern and connecting the flexible supply line from the water supply to it, it is recommended to carefully fill the gap between the leg and the floor lining with sealant.

Installing a toilet is not an easy task

In the table above brief description installation of the toilet was given only to demonstrate the final stage of finishing the toilet. In reality, everything can be somewhat more complicated. Detailed information on how to independently comply with all the rules can be obtained from the corresponding publication on our portal.

Plastic ceiling for a toilet or bathroom - the optimal solution

This article also spoke only briefly about the ceiling. This is because detailed information about it is posted in another portal article specifically dedicated to this issue.

For those who have carefully read this publication, we hope it has become clear that finishing the toilet plastic lining- it’s not that difficult, so it’s quite possible to do it on your own, saving some money. The main thing is to take your time and always adhere to the folk wisdom “measure twice, cut once.” As a result, a “boring” toilet can turn into a cozy, visually beautiful, easy-to-clean room, as, for example, shown in the proposed video.

Video: how plastic panels can transform a standard toilet room in an apartment

Pros

First, let's look at the positive aspects of using plastic panels as a finishing material for a bathroom. The list of advantages of these products is quite impressive:

Low price. This method of surface finishing is one of the most cost-effective. It would be cheaper to paint with water-based emulsion.
Easy to install. Plastic panels do not require special repair skills. Even those who have undertaken repairs for the first time can cope with their installation.
Fast installation. Installation of one PVC panel takes just a few minutes. Since bathrooms usually have a very small area, all the work will take you very little time.
No need for surface preparation. There is no need to level or plaster the walls for plastic panels.
Low maintenance requirements. PVC is a waterproof material that perfectly withstands wet cleaning and contact with various detergents. Therefore, keeping the walls in the toilet clean will not be difficult.
Wear resistance. Despite the fact that plastic is a fragile material, if you do not subject it to strong mechanical stress, PVC panels will last you quite a long time.

Cons

However, plastic panels have not only positive aspects. This finishing material does not have many negative qualities, but they are still present, so one cannot remain silent about them. So, the disadvantages of PVC panels are:

Instability to heat and fire. Plastic panels are deformed under the influence of high temperatures, so heaters and heated towel rails should not be placed close to them. In addition, plastic is not a fire-resistant material: it can catch fire if it comes into contact with fire. Therefore, you need to be careful when smoking in the toilet.
Large dimensions. At first glance, it seems that the plastic panels are absolutely flat, but in fact they can be up to 2 cm thick. In addition, a few more centimeters of space are often “eaten up” if the walls in the room are uneven. For large bathrooms this is not critical, but in small toilets this can become a real problem, as it will not allow the tiny area to be used to the maximum.

Types of panels

Plastic panels intended for finishing walls and ceilings in the bathroom come in several varieties.

Leafy

The most popular type is sheet panels, which are rectangles from one to one and a half meters long. The thickness of such panels is 0.3-0.6 cm. They can be plain, with ornaments or imitation of natural structures - wood or stone. It is most convenient to work with sheet panels due to their large dimensions.

Rack and pinion

Stacked tiles

The least common type of plastic panels are type-setting tiles. They are squares of different sizes, which allows you to lay out various patterns on the walls and ceiling, like a mosaic. The elements are connected through grooves in the panels, and everything is held together with special glue or clamps.

If you want to purchase a product with maximum strength, choose plastic panels with a thickness of at least 0.8 cm. In addition, pay attention to the number of “ribs” on the inside - they give additional rigidity.
The quality of plastic panels can be determined by its appearance. Take a close look at the front of the product: the paint should be applied evenly, and the design, if there is one, should be clearly printed.
As with wallpaper, the color of the same wall panels and different batches may vary by several shades. Therefore, buy products only from one batch.

The high cost of wall panels does not always indicate equally high quality, so price should not be the determining factor when choosing. However, material that costs significantly less than its counterparts from other manufacturers is usually not made in good faith.

Preparation and stages of repair

Experts advise preparing plastic panels for installation and further use by treating them with an antiseptic. This will protect the material from exposure to heat and moisture, so there is no need to worry about the appearance of fungus and mold.

Stage 1. Installation of the side posts, which will serve as the basis for the frame.
Stage 2. Lathing the structure with slats and cross members.
Stage 3. Attaching plastic fittings.
Stage 4. Cutting and installing plastic panels.

Basic principles and installation

Let's consider each of the above stages of work in more detail.

One rack should be placed in each corner of the room. At the same time, they should not be in contact with the floor and ceiling, so we place some material between the racks and surfaces. After the structure is fixed with screws, the temporary support will need to be removed. The side posts must be placed plumb so that they are strictly parallel. We maintain a step of 0.3-0.4 meters between fasteners (we use screws as fasteners).
The sheathing of the side posts is done with wooden blocks along the perimeter of the structure at the top and bottom. The fasteners should be screwed in at an angle of 45 degrees - this way we can securely fix two slats at once. Next, the slats need to be secured to the walls using self-tapping screws. This is the main frame, which, if necessary, can be supplemented with side posts or cross bars. The step between frame elements should be about 0.5 meters.
We nail the plastic fittings to the frame using nails and a hammer. The fittings need to be cut at an angle of 45 degrees - this way it will fit more tightly. Since PVC panels are quite flexible, we install fittings, including in the corners. If there is a gap between the slats and the wall, fill it with scraps of plastic, then hammer in a nail. Nails for installation should be selected with large flat heads. In order not to damage the plastic elements when driving nails, the final blows are performed not on the head, but on the protective attachment (for example, you can use a nail).
The final stage, if the frame and fittings are installed correctly, takes very little time. We cut plastic panels using a hacksaw. At the same time, the size of each sheet should be a centimeter and a half less than the space prepared for it, since the missing length is compensated by plastic fittings. We insert the cut sheet into the grooves and attach it to the slats. We insert the next sheet into the previous one, then also nail it to the crossbars.

We mount the last panel a little differently. We cut it along its entire length, then move it into the corner until it stops and drive it into the lock of the previous panel using a thin screwdriver. It will not be possible to fix this panel with nails, so you need to provide the most inaccessible place in the room for it in advance.

Before you start purchasing materials and decorating the toilet, sketch out a simple design project for the future room. Think not only about color scheme and about the placement of interior elements: it is equally important to provide for the location of windows, niches in the walls, plumbing box and ventilation.
Make sure in advance that you have all the necessary materials and tools at hand. In addition to the plastic panels themselves, you will need: a metal profile, wooden blocks, nails, screws and self-tapping screws, hammer, silicone glue, building level or plumb line, hacksaw or cutter, hammer drill with a set of drills.

For tips on planning the design of a toilet with plastic panels, read another article.

The bathroom is a very important room in any apartment, which is why many people are concerned with the question of how to decorate the toilet. What is this room like? As a rule, we are talking about a small, separate room for sanitary purposes, however, some people love to retire here in order to be alone, just to read. That is why it is very important that the bathroom is distinguished not only by convenience, but also by coziness, comfort, and beauty.

Finishing stages

How to decorate a toilet in an apartment? The scheme is something like this:

First they work with the walls;
Then they make the ceiling;
Afterwards the floor covering is installed.

A fairly common question is how to decorate a toilet other than tiles. In fact, the choice of finishing materials is large, but when working, it is important to take into account that the level of humidity in this room is very high.

Whatever one may say, the main finishing material for bathrooms is still ceramic tiles. Tile is used for wall cladding, and it is also chosen to cover floors.

It is not difficult to explain such popularity - the tiles respond well to moisture, as well as open water, therefore this is a very big plus. If you want to use some other option, you should pay attention to plastic panels for finishing the toilet, but we will talk about this a little later.

Wall covering

Before we talk about how to decorate a toilet other than tiles, let's talk about trends in this area. Nowadays, bathrooms that look bright, beautiful, and tastefully decorated are considered good form. Tiling – this option can be called aesthetic and practical. However, if you pay attention to the cost, such a solution will not be cheap; the work will be quite labor-intensive. It is important to remember when choosing tiles for the toilet that the room is not too spacious, therefore, you should avoid dark colors to prevent a visual reduction in space. The ideal way: buy tiles in light colors - the sizes will increase visually, as if “opening up” to greet visitors.

What’s also good is that nowadays manufacturers make tiles of a wide variety of characteristics - the choice is rich both in terms of texture and shades, there are many decorative elements for tiles. To make the bathroom look more comfortable, it is recommended to select some combined options– to look bright, but not too flashy.

It is important to remember that the tiles in the toilet often come into contact with certain chemicals, therefore, the material must be moisture-resistant and heat-resistant.

An excellent option, for example, is tile with high chemical resistance. A simpler solution, at the same time the most optimal and cheapest, is to decorate the toilet with plastic panels. To do this kind of work, you don’t need any serious skills. Let's talk about how to finish a toilet with panels, what work should be done for this.

Wall decoration with plastic panels

How to decorate a toilet with plastic panels? This is not difficult - first they make the sheathing: wooden blocks are attached to the walls of the bathroom; they should be 0.2 by 0.3 cm or so.

When the sheathing is completed, plastic panels are installed on it. For fastening, a construction stapler is usually chosen - in this case, the work is very convenient and fast.

Special transition corners made of plastic are installed in the corners. You can choose plastic panels both by pattern and color, but the main advantage of this material is its excellent resistance to moisture. Of course, there are other finishing options - you can, for example, choose MDF lining: in this case, the bathroom will be decorated like wood.

The fact is that repair is a rather acute, painful topic for anyone. modern man. The soul becomes especially anxious when repairs are carried out in the toilet or bathroom. If you choose traditional tiling, you will need a large amount of money - it is unlikely that the budget of an ordinary family can cope with such “damage”.

If finances are limited, it’s time to finish the toilet using PVC panels - this method is being chosen more and more often today when the question arises of how to finish the toilet other than tiles.

What are the positive aspects of PVC

For recent years This finishing material has gained great popularity, but what is most interesting is that not every person knows about all its advantages.

For example, the panels will not rot - even after several years the material will not change its properties.
Also, the panels are very beautiful, especially in a modern design. It is unlikely that you can find something better for the same price.
Speed of installation work: finishing a toilet with PVC panels does not require a lot of time.

If the bathroom has a standard shape and you have everything at hand necessary materials and tools, the cladding can be completed in one day if desired (of course, this does not take into account finishing work). What can I say - efficiency today is a priority for many jobs, especially since you can forget about cement, tiles, and other tedious procedures.

What you need to work with PVC panels

First, let's select the panels themselves. Here you can do everything according to your own tastes - the choice of color solutions today is rich, so everyone will find something interesting for themselves. You should also remember that you must purchase the necessary consumables, the necessary tools - without all this, it is unlikely that you will be able to cover the walls of the toilet with plastic panels. What should I buy for cladding?

A quality utility knife: you need to make sure that it can cut the panels optimally and without any effort. Are you thinking of using it in this work? kitchen knife? This is possible, but at your own peril and risk - plastic, as a rule, quickly dulls metal, and the cut lines will also turn out crooked.
Self-tapping screws, screwdriver: during work you will have to attach the panels to the sheathing. Dowels may also be required.
You need beams with a cross-section of 3 by 10 cm, or you can choose an aluminum profile, the main thing is that it has a similar configuration.
If you plan to hang panels directly on the wall, you need to get liquid nails, a gun for their use, polyurethane foam.
Repair work should not be started without a tape measure, a building level, decorative skirting boards and profile corners.

Choosing a panel finishing method

If the decision has been made, it’s time to find out how to decorate the toilet with panels. First, you need to understand which method of fixing the panels to the walls to use. There are two possible ways:

On a frame made of wood or metal profile;
Using foam.

If the second option is chosen, it is worth buying cylinders with a “fresh” expiration date. In this case, the foam yield will be significantly greater. Which method should you choose personally? If the bathroom in the apartment is spacious enough, there are smooth brick or concrete walls, there is no point in working on the sheathing. Plastic panels are best attached to liquid nails.

Be sure to keep in mind that during the work you will have to be patient; PVC will not stick in a matter of seconds. Moreover, you will need to either hold the panels yourself or install spacers between the walls.

Gluing panels onto liquid nails is not a difficult job, so let’s talk about how to work with the sheathing correctly.

Preparing for paneling

Before getting to work, the toilet needs to be prepared - all finishing elements that may interfere are removed, sockets and lighting devices are removed. If the work can be complicated by hoses or pipes, in an ideal situation it is better to dismantle it all, otherwise it will be much more difficult to decorate the toilet with PVC panels.

There is another relevant remark - you can often come across messages on the Internet that timber is not the best best material for sheathing. They write that it can become deformed and swell - because of this, the wall will immediately begin to look not very attractive. If, in fact, the humidity level in a room regularly rises, it is worth considering the following statements: proportion common sense they have. But there is also a way out - just before covering the toilet with plastic panels, the timber is carefully treated: any antiseptic for wood will do for this. If the humidity level is normal, there is no reason to worry at all.

Start of work on finishing the bathroom with PVC panels

First, the sheathing is attached. Since the panels will almost always be positioned from top to bottom, it is necessary to fasten the beams perpendicular to the floor. To execute this work, dowels are usually used. Since something will also need to be done with the ceiling, the sheathing is also attached to it.

It is recommended to maintain a distance of up to 400-500 mm between individual beams. The correct fastening of the beams is constantly monitored - this is done using a building level.

Before covering the toilet with plastic panels, you need to secure decorative profiles in the corners - the same ones where the corner panels will later be inserted.

You should start working from the corner. One edge of the PVC panel is inserted into the profile, after which the second side is attached to the screws.

The screw must be screwed into a lock that is flexible and large in size.

How to cut plastic panels correctly– many people ask this question. In fact, there is nothing complicated here: the panels are turned over with the wrong side out, laid on some solid base, then a cut is made using a stationery knife. It turns out to be a line, the panel is broken along it, and cut off with the same knife thin layer plastic that remains.

With the next panel everything will be easier: it needs to be inserted until a distinct click occurs. Then they are fastened again with self-tapping screws. You can finish the ceiling in a PVC toilet in exactly the same way (if this work is in the plans, a profile must be installed on its surface). Next, you can take on decorative overlays and baseboards, with the help of which you can easily hide defects and various technological gaps.

This is roughly how anyone can decorate a toilet with plastic panels. There are no special, insoluble difficulties in the work. The main thing during the execution process is to carefully fasten the panels to each other so that there are no gaps. Better to plant with glue ceiling skirting boards– they are needed only for decoration.

Finishing with MDF panels (lining)

We have discussed in detail how to decorate a toilet with panels, now a few words about MDF panels. These are very thin, light panels, the facing layer of which imitates expensive wood. Often this finishing option is chosen for large toilets, or for those cases when you want to get a room decorated in a classic style.

What's good about lining? The panels are moisture-resistant, perfectly resistant to various microorganisms and harmful fungi - thanks to all this, MDF panels can be called hygienic and safe for household use.

Yes, this option will cost more than tiles in terms of cost, but there is a significant saving when compared with natural wood. In general, the walls in the bathroom can be whatever you want - the most important thing is that they are water-resistant and smooth.

Wallpapering bathroom walls

If we consider decorating toilet walls with wallpaper, we can say that this is the cheapest, quick way decorate the room. The main basic condition for such work is even, smooth walls. But there is one drawback - many wallpapers are very susceptible to a damp wall. If you choose wallpaper for finishing the toilet, then only moisture-resistant or vinyl.

How to finish a toilet ceiling

Bathroom ceiling cladding - second stage repair work in this room. Everyone knows that the toilet is the very place where you need to regularly do wet cleaning. That is, the ideal solution for the top is a moisture-resistant ceiling. There are several options for finishing this place:

Moisture-resistant drywall;
Plastic plates;
Suspended structures made of aluminum.

Today they often choose suspended ceilings. This product is very attractive. What’s most interesting is that you can install in such a design spotlights. This is a big plus for small spaces - the fact is that the light from the lamps is reflected on shiny surfaces, thanks to which the space can be expanded optically.

An alternative solution that will tell you how to decorate the toilet is arranging the ceiling with foam plastic decorative slabs. However, you can simply paint the surface some pretty color. Shelves in the bathroom made of PVC panels are a really good, practical solution.

Floor covering

The floor treatment begins at the final stage of repairs in the toilet. Of course, the most best offer– tiling the floor in the bathroom. This method looks great and is very easy to clean if you use certain cleaning products. The tiles for the floor are selected taking into account certain requirements, for example, they must fit well with the coating that is on the walls. The design, which was carefully selected for laying tiles on the floor surface, will make the toilet more visually voluminous.

The floor in the toilet is often subject to temperature changes, and there is also high humidity. In a toilet (compared to a bathroom), only waterproofing can be done - it is usually applied not only to the floor, but also to the surface of the walls - at least 20 cm.

The ideal solution is tiles in the toilet, both for the floor and for the walls. But there are also more economical ones, practical options, for example, linoleum. To install this material, no special skills are needed; these floors can be easily installed on your own. If you want your toilet to have a heated film floor, you should definitely implement it - the room will be very comfortable. At the end of laying the floor, baseboards are installed. What is also interesting is that the toilet usually contains various communications: sewerage, water pipes, etc. It is important to do the finishing so that all these elements are hidden from view. But there should always be access to them - if necessary, special doors are installed so that you can quickly get to one or another communication node. Boxes are often made of plastic or moisture-resistant plasterboard; it is also finished - usually the same material is chosen as for wall cladding. This is the only way to achieve the final goal - a practical, well-appointed, cozy bathroom in the apartment.

Video: finishing the toilet

We bring to your attention an excellent video on how to decorate a toilet with your own hands. After watching, everyone will understand that such work is not too complicated, so turning to specialists for help is not so important.