It is believed that if there is such a plant in the house, then a woman will never be lonely, but will definitely meet the one with whom she will be happy. The flower is not very picky, but sometimes it happens that spathiphyllum leaves turn yellow. The reasons for this phenomenon may be different.

Botanical characteristics of the plant

Spathiphyllum - perennial herbaceous plant, which does not have a stem. Its leaves are dark green in color, oblong in shape and located on petioles. It blooms effectively and for quite a long time. The flowers are white.

There are several varieties of this plant. Domestic gardeners grow the following varieties of spathiphyllum:

If the plant does not bloom, the reason for this may be poor lighting or irregular watering. Old plants also bloom poorly.

This house plant not picky, but, nevertheless, like everyone else, it can get sick. But the cause of spathiphyllum is not always illness. There are several reasons for this phenomenon.

Plant depletion

If a plant blooms for a long time, it may become exhausted, since it requires a lot of strength and energy for this process. good food. Therefore, during flowering the plant needs special care.

Signs of exhaustion. The leaves begin to turn yellow at the bottom, then the process rises, and if nothing is done, all the leaves will turn yellow and wither. Then it will no longer be possible to save it; the plant will die.

Signs. The leaves begin to turn yellow from the tips and throughout the plant at once. The process develops very quickly, which leads to their death. Then the rest of the surface is damaged and the flower dies.

Why do spathiphyllum leaves turn yellow and what to do? The first thing to do in this case is to find out who was the culprit - very dry air or the sun. But it’s still better not to let the plant begin to turn yellow. You need to think in advance where it is better to place the flower so that it does not receive direct sunlight, especially in summer. Spathiphyllum can be fenced off from the sun with a thin light curtain or simple office paper can be used for this purpose.

But you shouldn’t move the flowerpot deeper into the room. If the flower lacks light, its leaves will become pale and very elongated.

Spathiphyllum leaves have turned yellow, what should you do if the cause is dry air? There are several ways to get rid of this problem:

There are many different ways not to allow favorite plant died from the scorching sun or dry air. You can choose any one that is most suitable.

The tips of the leaves that have dried out should be cut off, taking in some healthy tissue, severely yellowed leaves should be completely removed, and those that have changed pigmentation should not be touched; they will recover over time.

Low temperature and improper watering

Spathiphyllum loves moist soil. Moist, but not raw! For some gardeners, it almost floats in the water. This should not be allowed under any circumstances. It is good if the pot has drainage holes, but if they are overgrown with roots and do not cope with their task, then everything can end badly.

If there are already a large number of them, then you shouldn’t bother; it’s better to immediately use some systemic insecticide to kill the insects. But given that it is still a poison, strict adherence to the dosage indicated on the drug packaging is necessary. If the pests are not completely destroyed the first time, you can treat the flowerpot again after 5-7 days. In this case, it is recommended to treat not only the leaves, but also the soil in the pot.

How to prevent disease

Fighting diseases is more difficult. Especially when bacteria or fungal spores reach the growth point. In this case, it is no longer possible to save the spathiphyllum. Therefore, treatment should be started in the early stages.

To prevent the disease from spreading further, it is necessary to cut off all diseased areas: leaves, stems, roots. This should be done very carefully, since even the smallest focus of the disease, which is missed, will then spread to healthy areas. All cut areas must be treated with a light solution of potassium permanganate, and then sprinkled with crushed activated carbon.

But sometimes this is not enough. Often, disease infection occurs at the cellular level and the bacteria remain in healthy areas. The only way out in this case will be treatment with chemicals.

Treatment has several stages:

Before replanting a flower, to prevent reinfection, it is recommended to treat the soil with phytosporin.

To prevent the leaves on the spathiphyllum from starting to lighten or turn yellow, you need to properly care for it: water it correctly, monitor the lighting and temperature in the room, and fight pests and diseases. And then the plant will delight its owner with green leaves and beautiful flowers.

In total there are about 45 varieties of spathiphyllum.

Spathiphyllum or Spathiphyllum is a genus of plants in the Araceae family, numbering more than 40 species. Evergreen perennials come from tropical forests: South America is considered their homeland, East Asia, Polynesia, New Guinea island. Under natural conditions, Spathiphyllum grows along the banks of streams, rivers, and in swampy areas. Many varieties of Spathiphyllum are successfully grown at home.

It is believed that spathiphyllum can work wonders: give love to a lonely woman, bring peace and harmony to the life of a married couple. Therefore among the people amazing flower called "women's happiness." And for the delicate snow-white cover of the perianth, the plant received another name - “white sail”.

The stemless indoor plant spathiphyllum has many species, among which there are dwarfs and giants with rich green or bright light foliage. The dimensions of the oval or lance-shaped basal leaves of different types vary from 20 cm to 1 m.

The spathiphyllum flower is a spadix of white, cream, greenish or yellowish hue. The inflorescence is located on a long peduncle, shrouded in white or pale green perianth, resembling a leaf in shape. By the end of flowering, the perianth turns green.

Species

The most popular among gardeners are five species.

In various sources you can find another species - Spathiphyllum Red. In reality it is an anthurium. After all, not a single variety of spathiphyllum has red inflorescences.

Basics of care

Many gardeners know that anthurium and spathiphyllum require almost the same conditions. But there is still a slight difference. So how to care for spathiphyllum? The flower needs to be provided optimal temperature, humidity, lighting. Water, prune, and replant indoor plants in a timely manner.

Temperature

The indoor flower loves warmth. IN warm time year, the optimal temperature is 20–23 °C, although the plant normally tolerates hotter conditions - up to 26–27 °C. In winter, the optimal temperature for full development is 15–17 °C. The plant can withstand cold down to 12–13 °C, but its growth in this case stops.

Spathiphyllum reacts extremely negatively to drafts and may die.

Humidity

To create a humid microclimate, you need to regularly spray the plant.

In addition to temperature, you need to ensure sufficient humidity: home beautiful flower should be sprayed three times a day in summer, once a day in winter. Dust from the surface of the leaves should be carefully wiped with a damp sponge or cloth. Detergents, hard rags cannot be used - you can damage the delicate surface of the leaves.

Lighting

The indoor beauty grows best in partial shade, places with diffused lighting (including artificial light). It is strictly forbidden to place the flowerpot in the open sun: direct sunlight burns the leaves and slows down growth.

Watering

For irrigation, it is recommended to use soft, settled water. Watering should be carried out promptly and correctly - do not overdry, do not overfill with water. If you do not water the spathiphyllum regularly, the flowers will dry out and the leaves will turn yellow. And an excess of moisture will cause blackening, rotting of the root system and death of the flower. Each subsequent watering is carried out only when it dries out. top layer land.

Transfer

The root system of the flower develops quite quickly, completely filling the space of the pot. Therefore, spathiphyllum is transplanted every year, preferably in the spring. To grow the rhizome, you need to take a pot slightly larger than the previous one. In this case, the pot should be wide enough, not too deep.

It is best to replant spathiphyllum using the method of transferring an earthen clod - not shaking the soil from the roots, but replanting it along with it. This will prevent damage to the roots and the flower will take root better.

If the tips dry out, the leaves should not be cut off completely, but only the dry part.

Circumcision

To prevent the flower from getting sick, you need to trim:

1. dry, old, diseased leaves;
2. dried tips of leaves;
3. peduncles on which the flower has faded (this will stimulate new flowering).

How to grow spathiphyllum?

Mostly grown at home hybrid varieties spathiphyllum (they are hardier, bloom longer), as well as some species plants.

Planting and soil

Peat and leaf soil to grow spathiphyllum it is mixed with sand and humus (component ratio 1:1:1:0.5). To ensure that the soil is loose, absorbs moisture well and allows air to pass through, a small amount of charcoal, brick chips and crushed tree bark are added to it. The mixture of these components should be a tenth of the amount of soil substrate.

It is not advisable to replant spathiphyllum at the age of 5 years and older; it is better to periodically replace the top layer of soil in the flowerpot. If the condition requires a transplant, then the procedure can be performed, but not more often than once every 5 years.

Care must be taken during circumcision and transplantation. The plant juice is poisonous and can cause skin irritation and local allergic reactions. After working with a flower, be sure to wash your hands.

Top dressing

Mineral fertilizers are applied during the growing season - in the spring. Substances are diluted in a ratio of 1–1.5 g per 1 liter of water. Fertilizing is also carried out in the summer and during the formation of flowers. Young plants are fertilized once a week, adult flowers - once a month. In winter, spathiphyllum is also fed, but less often and in smaller quantities.

Problems in growing

For those who grow spathiphyllum, care at home does not present any particular difficulties. However, spathiphyllum is susceptible to disease and can be affected by insect pests. Below are the most common problems that gardeners face when growing, and ways to solve them.

Leaves turn yellow and wither

This situation occurs when the soil in the pot dries out. If the spathiphyllum has dropped yellowed leaves, it needs to be watered more often to completely soak the soil. In this case, the amount of water should be increased gradually - a sharp transition from drought to abundant watering should not be allowed.

The tips of the leaves dry out

The most common causes of dry leaves are:

• planting in unsuitable soil;
• direct sunlight (causes leaf burn);
• a sharp transition from drought to abundant watering;
• watering with too cold water;
• low air humidity (especially in the heat in summer, or in winter when heating devices are on).

You can ensure sufficient humidity by:

• regular spraying;
• placing a tray with sand or expanded clay moistened with water near the flowerpot;
• special devices - humidifiers.

The leaves turn black

Black leaves of spathiphyllum can signal excess moisture, which has caused rotting of the roots.

• frequent or copious spraying;
• low temperature air;
• deficiency or excess nutrients(more often a deficiency of phosphorus-nitrogen fertilizers);
• excess moisture.

With excess moisture, the leaf blades turn black, and the root system rots and dies. If the leaves turn black, the flower must be removed from the pot. Having examined root system, remove rotten roots, replant the flower in another soil.

If the leaves on the spathiphyllum have turned black due to a deficiency of nutrients, you need to feed it with complex nitrogen-containing fertilizers.

Spider mite

A dangerous pest appears on the underside of leaf blades, covering them with cobwebs. Soon the leaves begin to dry out. The diseased plant is sprayed soap solution, having previously cleared the leaves of cobwebs with a damp sponge.

If the solution does not help, you can use insecticides and ground sulfur. Some gardeners in the fight against spider mite use the following recipe: 100 g of onion peels are poured with 5 liters of water, left for at least 5 days. The resulting solution is sprayed onto the plant.

Aphid

Black, green or gray aphids settle at the bottom of the leaf blade and multiply very quickly. The pest feeds on the sap of the plant, as a result of which the leaves begin to dry out and curl. To kill aphids, the plant is treated with a solution of nicotine sulfate (1 g of product diluted in 1 liter of water) or a soap solution. If necessary, repeat the treatment.

Shchitovka

When attacked by a scale insect, the leaf blades become covered with dark spots. The plant is treated with a soap solution with the addition of tobacco and kerosene. Then wash the flower with a clean soap solution and insecticides.

Mealybug

Mealybugs appear between the leaves due to excessive dampness. If there are not many insects, they can be easily removed with a cloth soaked in alcohol. In case of severe infection, the plant must be treated with actellik, insecticides or infusion of citrus fruit peels.

During treatment, you need to make sure that the solution does not get into the soil, otherwise not only the pests will die, but also the flower itself. After treatment, the plant is washed, and the ground is also covered with film.

How does it bloom?

Blooming spathiphyllum can cause allergies.

Amazing spathiphyllum flowers in the form of an inflorescence-cob, shrouded in a delicate blanket, appear in the spring and delight the eye for 2-3 weeks. If provided optimal conditions maintenance and care, flowers will appear twice a year. Some varieties bloom for up to six months - from March to September, or all year round.

Spathiphyllum, like anthurium, can cause allergic reactions during the flowering period because it releases pollen.

Reproduction of spathiphyllum

The plant can be propagated in three ways:

1. dividing the rhizome;
2. cuttings;
3. seeds.

By dividing the rhizome

Dividing the bush is a simple method of propagation, which will also be useful for the mother plant. The resulting cuttings are ready-made young plants that do not require special procedures. They just need to be planted in separate pots.

They know how to plant spathiphyllum correctly experienced flower growers. For beginners they recommend:

1. carry out the procedure at a temperature of 20 ° C;
2. Before removing from the pot, water the plant well so that the roots are saturated with water and become less brittle;
3. remove dried or rotten roots and limp leaves from the separated plant;
4. When replanting, young spathiphyllum should be planted in a non- big pot(diameter up to 15 cm);
5. replant into a similar soil substrate or a mixture consisting of peat, leaf, coniferous soil, humus and sand (all components are mixed in equal quantities, with the exception of sand, which should be taken in half as much).

Cuttings

The cutting is a leaf rosette cut from the mother plant. The cuttings are placed in a container with water for 14–20 days until the root system appears. To prevent the base of the stem from rotting, add activated carbon to the water (½ tablet per glass of liquid). As soon as the roots grow 2–3 cm, the plant is planted in the ground.

Seeds

For those who decide to grow spathiphyllum from seeds, reproduction will take a lot of time and effort. This is a complex, time-consuming process, since the plant’s seeds quickly lose their viability. After pollination of the flower, you need to wait for the seeds to ripen, and once collected, sow them immediately. A simpler method is to purchase seeds from a specialized flower shop.

The seeds are planted in a container with a moist substrate consisting of sand and peat and placed in a miniature heated greenhouse (up to 24 ° C). Soil moisture is maintained by spraying, and the greenhouse is regularly ventilated. With an increased level of humidity, mold may appear on the surface of the substrate, and the seeds will begin to rot.

What to do if it doesn't bloom?

Not every gardener's purchased spathiphyllum blooms. The reason for the lack of flowers is improper care, namely low air temperature, insufficient humidity, and deficiency of nutrients. It is necessary to ensure optimal temperature regime and humidity, increase the dose of fertilizing, and gentle beautiful flowers will definitely appear.

If you plant a flower in a pot that is too large, it will grow root and foliage mass, but there will be no flowers.

Replanting after purchase into a pot that is too large can also delay the appearance of flowers. Until the space of the pot is completely filled with roots, you should not expect flowering. You can correct the situation by transplanting the plant into a smaller pot.

Where to buy?

IN specialized stores You can purchase the plant or its seeds. When purchasing seeds, be sure to check the expiration date - old seeds will not sprout.

A young plant can be bought in specialized retail outlets, greenhouses or online stores that provide not only sales, but also delivery. The price of plants varies widely, depending on the age and type of plant, location and status of the store.

Types of spathiphyllum Chopin and Cupido can be bought for 300 rubles. The average price for Spathiphyllum Mozart ranges from 1,000 rubles, and the cost of the Claudius species reaches 6,000 rubles.

Proper care of spathiphyllum will provide it with good growth. And the unusual home flower will thank the hostess for her care - she will delight with her delicate flowers with a light aroma, bright green lush leaves. The plant will also give harmony and peace of mind, and help fulfill all your dreams and desires.

Spathiphyllum can be called, without exaggeration, one of the most popular plants.

It is almost always easy to find in flower shops, and the plant is selling out with extraordinary speed. What is the reason for the real fashion for this amazing flower?

Of course, the first and most important reason for buying spathiphyllum is its wonderful appearance. Glossy dark green leaves and snow-white sails of inflorescences towering above them are unlikely to leave exotic lovers indifferent.

The second reason that arouses the constant interest of gardeners in spathiphyllum is its ability to purify the air. The inscription on the label attached to the flower in the store will definitely tell you about this. And finally, spathiphyllum is quite unpretentious; it can be recommended for cultivation even by novice gardeners. In addition, this is perhaps the only beautifully flowering plant that can be called relatively shade-tolerant (relatively!)

Spathiphyllum flowers are small, located on the spadix - a column in the center of the inflorescence. The main attention is drawn to the white sail - the cover of the inflorescence

An interesting opinion about spathiphyllum is from flower growers who adore various signs according to which plants mysteriously solve life’s problems for us or, on the contrary, create them. Thus, on some websites, women quite seriously claim that spathiphyllum brings failures in their personal lives and “drives” men out of the house. On the pages of other resources it is said with the same thoroughness that spathiphyllum is “women’s happiness”, it helps in finding a life partner, so growing a flower is very useful in a house where there are girls. Thanks to the plant, they will certainly find themselves ideal partner. Who to believe? Sometimes signs are so diverse and contradictory that you can easily get confused in them. It's probably better to believe in what suits us personally. Or maybe it’s better not to rely on the help of plants in such important areas of life?

The homeland of most species of spathiphyllum is South America (the most known species S. wallis and S. cannofolia are from there. S. cannofolia, for example, is found mostly in Colombia, in the Amazon basin). Most species live in tropical forests, along streams and rivers. However, some species of spathiphyllum (for example, S.commutatum) originate from Malaysia and the Solomon Islands. In general, about 40 species of plants are known.

Spathiphyllum appeared in Europe quite a long time ago, around the 19th century, when collectors went to South America to search for new exotic plants, suitable for indoor growing.

The name of the flower is translated extremely simply. In Greek, “spata” means blanket, and “phyllum” means “leaf”. That is, speaking in Russian, spathiphyllum is “bedspread”. Naturally, this name is an allusion to the structure of the spathiphyllum inflorescence - an ear with a veil that resembles an ordinary leaf of a plant. In general, if we consider that exactly this inflorescence structure is characteristic of many aroids, they probably could also be called spathiphyllum, but only one flower received this name.

Spathiphyllum blooms for a long time, is relatively shade-tolerant, requires abundant watering, and grows quickly.

It must be said that the spathiphyllums that we will find in the store are hybrid varieties. They are obtained by crossing various types plants. Recently, the number of these varieties has been increasing; currently, hundreds of plant cultivars are known, among which are the most popular. For example, the giant spathiphyllums Sensation, Pablo and Figaro, which reach a height of 1 m or more, are highly valued. It should be noted that, according to many plant growers, it is these large varieties that are more hardy, bloom easier and more readily. However, not everyone can afford to have such a giant in their home. Compact plants are suitable for most: Mozart, Chopin, Sweet Chico, etc. Recently, variegated cultivars, for example, Domino, Picasso, have become increasingly popular. However, in most cases, such varieties are obtained by introducing a special virus into plant tissue cultures, which causes spots to appear on the leaves. It is quite possible that subsequently this property will gradually be lost and the leaves will again become monochromatic.

My story of spathiphyllum

Unfortunately, I don’t know exactly the name of the variety of my plant, I believe that it is some kind of hybrid of S. Wallis. It was purchased in a store when I was looking for the most shade-tolerant flowers. And again an error occurred. Spathiphyllum, of course, requires significantly less light than, say, pelargonium or others flowering plants. However, it is definitely not suitable for a north window: if there is very little light, the spathiphyllum will stop blooming.

I placed the plant at work in a northwest window. It grew quite successfully, although it bloomed, although regularly, but not very profusely. Sometimes the tips of the leaves turned brown, so I had to trim them and increase the spraying. Several times after the weekend the plant dropped its leaves, but they quickly restored turgor immediately after watering. Soon they asked me for a cutting from the plant. To be honest, I didn’t really want to share, because I know that the plant does not always successfully tolerate this procedure. However, I overcame my own greed and divided the bush into several parts. Oddly enough, nothing bad happened. All the shoots took root well, and my division also bloomed soon, which is generally incomprehensible (though there was only one flower).

The problems started when I returned from vacation. During my absence, the leaves of the plant turned pale green, almost yellow. The most annoying thing is that I don’t know what happened to the flower. Most likely, he was kept in very bright light, because... on my almost north-facing window it could not turn yellow from excess light. In general, I cut off all the pale leaves. Subsequently, the plant grew and took on its normal appearance.

Long flowering for 6-10 weeks is one of the main advantages of spathiphyllum. What we take for a flower is an inflorescence, a spadix with a spathe. Small flowers, female and male, are located along the column (cob) in the center of the inflorescence. The plant is pollinated by insects, special kind bees

The size of the flowers may vary depending on the plant variety. In some the inflorescences are huge, in other species they are quite small. The color is always white, but it changes to light green as it fades. The number of flowers depends mainly on how well the plant is cared for. However, there are varieties that bloom more actively and for a longer period of time, and there are those that are quite difficult to “make” bloom.

Trimming old spathiphyllum leaves can encourage new side shoots to appear.

It is worth accepting that spathiphyllum will not bloom all year round. Typically the flowering period is limited from March to September. If you bought blooming spathiphyllum in winter, this is the result of treating the flower with a special hormonal substance - gibberellic acid. It is these treatments that allow producers to obtain any flowering plants, regardless of the season. The duration of the drug's influence is about 2-4 months, after which flowering will end. Amateurs are not recommended to use such hormones, because... It is quite difficult to choose the right dose, and it is unlikely that frequent use of artificial stimulants of various kinds will benefit the plant.

However, there are some ways to activate spathiphyllum flowering. For example, many gardeners notice that rearranging the plant often stimulates the onset of flowering. Very often, spathiphyllum does not bloom due to unfavorable growing conditions, for example, lack of light. Of course, it does not tolerate excess sunlight well. However, if the plant does not bloom in the back of the room, try moving it closer to the window. Sometimes this immediately causes buds to appear. It happens that spraying the plant or other methods of increasing humidity has a beneficial effect. If spathiphyllum was grown at too low or very high temperature, often moving it to optimal conditions also causes flowering. Perhaps the very fact of rearranging and changing growth conditions has a positive effect. Sometimes feeding the plant has a positive effect.

However, if spathiphyllum is grown in ideal conditions, and rearranging it from place to place does not lead to flowering, you can try to act in the opposite way. For 2-3 weeks, you should reduce watering the plant, then do not water it at all for a week. However, the leaves should not be allowed to wilt. After this, you should place the plant closer to the window, start watering it and feeding it with minerals and organic fertilizers. Flowering usually occurs within a month.

There is an opinion that spathiphyllum does not bloom after division, as well as after transplantation, until the pot is large and the roots have completely entwined the earthen ball. However, most likely, flowering is inhibited after these procedures simply because the plant has experienced stress, or the flower is still too young. Otherwise, why in nature, where spathiphyllum roots grow freely in the soil and there is no pot limiting them, do plants bloom without problems? Many home gardening enthusiasts note that their spathiphyllums bloomed almost immediately after being transplanted into a larger pot. So it is unlikely that it is the one that slows down the onset of flowering.

When caring for spathiphyllum, it is important to promptly trim off faded inflorescences when they just begin to turn black.

Lighting is another controversial issue when growing spathiphyllum. The main argument of supporters of the plant's shade tolerance is that in nature it grows in the lower tier of the tropical forest, under the canopy of trees. However, the flower forms powerful thickets there, its rhizome grows, and the plant quickly spreads in space in search of clearings where lighting conditions are better.

We can say that the optimal light for spathiphyllum is bright, diffused light, for example, an eastern window, slightly shaded by other colors. Most likely, in the back of the room the plant will also look tolerable, but flowering will either be reduced or completely absent. However, spathiphyllum can also be grown under artificial light.

Spathiphyllum needs constantly moist, but not waterlogged soil. You will easily notice that as soon as you forget to water the plant, it immediately drops its leaves. True, watering usually returns them to normal condition. However, you should not abuse the flower’s stamina. With each drying out, part of the root system dies off, and very often the leaves that seem to have restored turgor later still turn yellow. It is better to water the plant 2-3 times a week in the summer (and sometimes every day in the heat) and about 1 time a week in the winter. It is good to soften hard water for irrigation with a few drops of citric acid.

You should also not wait for the top layer of soil to dry out, because... The resulting layer makes it difficult for the plant roots to breathe. When watering, it is advisable to drain excess water from the pallet. The only condition Guaranteed well-being of spathiphyllum with abundant watering is provided by a properly selected substrate, which should be very loose and breathable. In this case, there is absolutely no need to be afraid of overflow. Let us remember that in natural conditions the flower grows near rivers and streams, and very often it experiences periods of prolonged flooding. Some gardeners grow certain types of spathiphyllum even in an aquarium. (True, flower growth is not always very active in such conditions). Excessive watering is very harmful only if the plant is grown in a heavy, dense substrate, especially at low temperatures.

Like most plants, spathiphyllum is fed approximately once every 2-3 weeks. The ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (NPK) is 15:15:15. It should be noted that spathiphyllum benefits from fertilizer containing microelements and magnesium, the need for which is slightly higher compared to other plants. In winter, if growth has not stopped, the plant is fed no more than once a month.

Unfortunately, dust is very visible on dark shiny leaves spathiphyllum, so you will have to wipe them often and bathe the plant at least once a week. It is necessary, however, to note that when using hard water, the leaves appear limescale, which does not at all decorate them. It is also important to promptly remove dry leaves and faded inflorescences. It is not advisable to use it for polishing leaves. chemicals, however, the leaves can be wiped with milk.

Spathiphyllum prefers high levels of humidity, frequent spraying or keeping it in a tray with wet expanded clay. However, it can adapt to drier air; in any case, a humidity level of 40-50% is quite acceptable for the plant.

Spathiphyllum is thermophilic, and the correct temperature is very important for normal flower growth. In winter and summer it should be +18-25 0 C (extreme limits +15-32 0 C). The plant is afraid of drafts. In winter, if spathiphyllum grows on a cold windowsill, it is better to place it on a foam tray or on a board.

The substrate for spathiphyllum should be very loose. Because flower growing in tropical forest in quite fertile soil near streams, at home it is advisable to recreate the composition from fallen leaves, rotting wood, compost, coal. For example, you can use a mixture of 2 parts garden soil, 3 parts peat moss, 2 parts perlite and 3 orchid growing mixture, which includes bark, charcoal and gravel. It is useful to add sphagnum and vermiculite to any substrate. You can prepare a mixture of equal parts of sand or perlite, peat, leaf, coniferous and humus soil. The composition can be anything, the main thing is that the soil should not be heavy, because... It is in such a substrate that moisture stagnation and root rotting begin. Good drainage is necessary.

Brown leaf tips most often indicate dry air and the need for spraying. However, sometimes they appear when the plant is over-hydrated and at the beginning of rotting of the root system.

• Pale leaves indicate excess light. If the sun is too bright, burns also appear on the leaves. Damaged leaves must be removed because... they will not return to normal color.
• Drooping leaves most often indicate insufficient watering. However, this same sign serves as a symptom of waterlogging of the plant if its soil is constantly damp. When the leaves rot, they may curl up and appear on them. dark spots. Sometimes the process is accompanied by rotting of leaf petioles. Typically, rotting occurs when overwatered in low temperature conditions, for example, on a cold windowsill.
• Reduced growth rate and chlorosis of leaves (yellowing, in which the veins, as a rule, remain green) are a sign of a lack of iron and manganese. Sometimes the reason is insufficient absorption of these elements due to cold storage or poor soil aeration. In any case, these factors must be eliminated.
• Leaves may curl if the temperature is too low.
• The edges of the leaves may turn yellow from watering with hard water.
• The lack of flowering may be due to lack of lighting or the fact that the plant is still too young.
• Droplets of water on the leaves are completely harmless and non-toxic. This is a common phenomenon of guttation for aroids, associated with the release of excess fluid in too humid air.

The only method of propagation is by dividing the plant during transplantation. Sometimes, as a result of damage to the root systems, divisions take root with difficulty, and their leaves lose turgor. In this case, the wilted leaves should be cut off and the remaining ones should be sprayed generously. If, when dividing a plant, a division is obtained without any roots, it should first be rooted in water (about 2-3 weeks), preferably under polyethylene. When roots 2-3 cm long are formed, the plant is planted in the soil.

Spathiphyllum is moderately poisonous, like all aroids. Its leaves contain calcium oxalate crystals and can cause dermatitis in some people. Probably, if a cat eats spathiphyllum, it will not die, but it is better not to allow it to regularly consume the plant, because. this can lead to mouth ulcers, vomiting and diarrhea.

At the same time, spathiphyllum very well purifies the air in the room from harmful impurities. However, to clean a room, for example, with an area of ​​about 35 m2, you will need at least 12 plants.

If on vacation

Spathiphyllum requires constantly moist soil, so when leaving, it is better to entrust its care to neighbors. If you will be away for no more than a week, water the plant generously, place it in a tray with wet expanded clay, and the surface of the soil should also be sprinkled with wet expanded clay.

If Spathiphyllum gets sick, the leaves turn yellow or become stained, then mistakes were made in caring for the plant. In the article we will look at some features of plant care to prevent its disease. Why is this unpretentious plant may face the problem of yellowed leaves?

If the foliage of spathiphyllum turns pale to yellow color- You may have dried out the soil. Remember the tropical origin of spathiphyllum - provide it with a “warm environment” and the necessary watering with filtered warm water. Yellowing of the leaf blade and stems is associated with excessive dryness.

Drooping, as if withered, leaves that have lost their shine can indicate dryness. You can bring a dry plant back to life. To do this, do not immediately flood the soil abundantly - this can cause rotting. Increase the amount of water gradually and monitor the condition of the leaves.

Black spots on the foliage mean the opposite problem: too much moisture when watering. In winter, reduce watering. Water containing bleach can also affect the flower's painful condition.

If a problem arises - the spathiphyllum is sick, the leaves turn yellow - your actions

1. Spray the plant twice a day - humidify the air.
2. Move the spathiphyllum away from the radiator/heater. The proximity of the radiator seriously harms it.
3. Place wet pebbles in the tray of the pot - it will help maintain a constant required level of moisture.
4. In a critical situation, give the plant a warm shower (adjust the gentle water pressure so as not to damage the leaves).
5. Place the spathiphyllum in a more humid place. Can be placed flower pot in the bathroom, giving him a warm shower.

Another reason for the yellowness of plant leaves is cold. If the apartment is not warm enough, indoor spathiphyllum quickly withers. The temperature in the apartment should not fall below fifteen degrees. Protect the plant from drafts - do not place it on a through window sill.

If dark green leaves lose color, this is a sign that the plant is not getting enough light. Spathiphyllum needs diffused lighting: partial shade is better in summer, and additional light from a special lamp in winter.

Do not place Spathiphyllum in direct sunlight.

If your plant is provided optimal watering and lighting, then the next cause of yellowing is insects. Inspect the stems and leaves of the flower for pests.

If you don’t find insects, then this is the peak case - rotting of the roots. You will have to remove the plant from the pot, wash the roots with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, steam the pot and plant the flower in fresh soil.

Perhaps the yellowing of spathiphyllum is due to the fact that you have not replanted the flower in fresh soil for a long time. This must be done at least once every 3 years.

Diseased spathiphyllum needs to be treated. Medicines for it include fresh soil, potassium permanganate and hydrogen peroxide.

Flowers in a shady flowerbed