Insulation of walls in a bathhouse on the 2nd floor. We insulate the bathhouse with our own hands. Main types of attic roofs

If it weren’t for her, everyone would use a bathtub and shower, and would not build a bathhouse on their site at all.

At the same time, the steam room has a rather complex temperature and humidity regime.

To provide good conditions in the bathhouse, you need to take care of how to insulate the steam room in the bathhouse. We will tell you how to do this using different insulation technologies.

It would seem that for many centuries our ancestors have been building baths without any insulation or special technologies.

They simply took logs or chopped them from.

However, now, even in log baths, insulated steam rooms are becoming increasingly common.

The fact is that a well-insulated steam room will retain heat much longer.

If you take care of how to insulate the steam room in the bathhouse, you will spend less on firewood when heating, and the heat will build up much faster.

The steam room has a high air temperature. Therefore, the intensity of heat loss from this room will be higher than from any other room in the bathhouse.

Consequently, it is much more profitable to insulate a steam room than to insulate the entire bathhouse.

Considering that there are usually several rooms in a bathhouse, it would be logical to insulate the steam room from the inside, leaving all other rooms of the bathhouse with the usual temperature conditions external And also insulate the walls between the steam room and the dressing room, or washing compartment.

This is more profitable than insulating the steam room from the outside - in this case, when heating the steam room, you will not heat it, but the entire bathhouse room, which will be quite expensive. Yes, and after the steam room you want to go into a cooler room, and not into an equally hot one.

The main thing is vapor protection!

A vapor-waterproofing barrier is placed on top of the insulation.

It is necessary to ensure that moisture does not penetrate into the insulation and does not accumulate in it.

Most often, roofing material is used for this, but others can be used.

There are no requirements for air to pass through the insulation to the outside of the steam room, so it will be easier to make insulation from impermeable materials.

Below, on the floor, waterproofing is done. If you wash in the steam room, the waterproofing should be quite reliable. Waterproof the floating floor layer on top of the insulation before laying the tiles.

Then an intermediate layer is applied to it or a screed with a slope is made, and the tiles are laid. Of course, water can often flow down the floor if you splash stones from a ladle, so it’s better to play it safe and do full waterproofing, just like for the washing area of a bathhouse.

Insulation in a bathhouse with wooden walls

Before insulating a steam room in a bathhouse made of timber or logs, you will need to do ventilation holes so that the insulation layer is ventilated.

There should be a gap of about one and a half centimeters between the insulation and the logs outside, where outside air will freely pass.

Usually, ventilation holes are made in the outer walls around the steam room to ventilate the insulation, and the holes are covered with gratings.

The holes are located at the top and bottom, every 2.5 meters along the length of the insulated wall, but at least two per wall.

If the bathhouse is small, it does not have a separate washing department, and it is made of timber 25 cm thick or more, then there is no point in insulating it. The timber itself is a good heat insulator and an excellent environmental pure material for walls.

Insulation in a bathhouse with stone walls

Everything is done in approximately the same way as in a timber bathhouse. Before insulating a steam room in a bathhouse made of a block or brick, ventilation holes are made in the outer walls, then they are closed with gratings.

If the walls have contact only with adjacent rooms, or the bathhouse is located in ground floor- do ventilation ducts, through which air will flow freely.

In this case, given that they are not used so often, it would be rational to make it possible to “blow out” the insulation after a bath day using forced ventilation heated. This is to remove any remaining moisture in the insulation.

The insulation of a bathhouse made of expanded clay concrete blocks is presented in the video:

Materials for work

Before you start considering insulation technology, you need to figure out what materials need to be prepared for the job.

1. Thermal insulation material is the most important component in the process of insulating the walls, ceiling and floor of a bathhouse. Today there are a large number of insulation materials, but not all of them are suitable for bath conditions. Which ones are most adapted to high temperatures and humidity? It makes sense to take a look at the most popular ones - polystyrene foam, regular and extruded (XPS boards), mineral wool, polyurethane foam and expanded clay:

Expanded polystyrene		Mineral wool	XPS boards

Has an open cellular structure	Since the material is installed using the spraying method, it can have an open and closed cellular structure	It has a fibrous structure, the fibers are randomly located in the vertical and horizontal directions	Closed (sealed) cellular structure	Natural bulk material consisting of granules with a porous structure
Poor moisture permeability	Poor moisture permeability	Almost does not absorb moisture	Does not allow moisture to pass through	Does not allow moisture to pass through
Light in weight	Light in weight	Medium-light in weight	Medium-light in weight	Easy
Has medium strength	Has low strength	Has medium strength	Has high strength	Granules have high strength
Average compression strength	Low compression resistance	May have different compression strength ratings from low to medium	High compression resistance	Compression resistant granules
Over time, it begins to release toxic substances	When heated, it becomes toxic, emits carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide.	Non-toxic	Non-toxic	Non-toxic
Not suitable for use under heavy loads	Not suitable for use under loads	Mineral wool has different types, there are resistant and not resistant to high loads		Suitable for use under high loads
Subject to decay	Durable, not subject to decay	Durable	Durable	Durable
Susceptible to ultraviolet rays (should not be left in open form for a long time)	Almost unaffected by ultraviolet radiation, but it is recommended to cover it with finishing material	UV resistant		Not affected by ultraviolet radiation

Getting to know characteristics leads to the conclusion that mineral wool for walls and wooden floor, and XPS slabs - for concrete. Expanded clay can be called universal material, which is perfect for any floor, but cannot be used for walls for internal insulation.

If you buy it, it will be perfect for a bath material with a foil layer, which promotes long-term heat retention indoors using the principle of a thermos. For example, some characteristics of foil mineral wool insulation from the Izorok company are shown in the table:

	Izolight-L	Isolite	Isovent	Izokor-S	Isophor	Izoruf
Density, kg/m³	40	50	90	105	110	150
Compressive strength at 10% deformation, kPa, not less			20		25	50
Ultimate peel strength of layers, kPa, not less			4		4	12
Declared thermal conductivity coefficient, W/m×°K	0,035	0,034	0,034	0,036	0,034	0,036
Thermal conductivity coefficient under operating conditions, W/m×°K	0,043	0,038	0,039	0,041	0.040	0,042
Water absorption by volume, %, no more	1.5	1.5	1.5	1.5	1.5	1
Humidity by mass, %, no more	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.5
Content organic matter by weight, %, no more	2.5	2.5	4	4	4	4

Mineral wool is suitable for heat and soundproofing works for the walls, ceiling and floor of the bath. But it is still recommended to arrange several layers of thermal insulation on the floors, the first of which should be expanded clay. The important thing is that rodents avoid it, which means that all other materials will be safe.

2. To fasten mineral wool mats or other foil insulation, and create a seamless sealed surface coating, you will need to purchase special foil tape.

3. The insulation is placed between the sheathing guides, which means it will require wooden blocks cross-section, which depends on the thickness of the insulation mats. If, as an example, we take the recommended insulation thickness of 100 mm, then the bars should have the same size on one side, or double lathing with perpendicular guides and a two-layer arrangement of mats will be used.

4. The bars are attached to the walls using self-tapping screws, dowels or anchors (depending on the type wall material), therefore it is necessary to purchase these elements of the required length, corresponding to both the size of the guides and the required depth into the walls - for wood - 20 ÷ 25 mm, for solid walls - at least 40 mm.

5. If you choose insulation without a foil layer, then to cover it you will need a vapor barrier film.

6. If the floor in the bathhouse is filled with concrete screed, then in addition to insulation you will need:

— cement and sand or ready-made construction mixture;

- roofing felt;

— reinforcing mesh;

— guides for beacons;

— polyethylene film;

- damper tape.

The amount of materials will depend on the area of the floor, ceiling and walls of the insulated room.

Having prepared everything you need, you can move on to insulating the surfaces of bath rooms.

Prices for popular types of insulation

Insulation

Insulation of bath floors

As you know, a bathhouse can be built of wood or brick, which is why not only wood, but also concrete is installed. The latter is most often poured into brick bath, but sometimes they do it in wood. In any case, a concrete floor always requires enhanced insulation.

The thermal insulation of floors in any bathhouse should be given special attention, since they must withstand high humidity and temperature changes between the rooms and the ground. Therefore, before proceeding with the installation of a multi-layer “pie” of a wooden floor or a concrete device, it is recommended to cover the entire surface under the structure of the bathhouse with a medium fraction or slag.

The expanded clay layer will depend on the thickness of the walls of the building. It must be at least twice as thick as they are. It should be noted that if it is possible and space allows to make the expanded clay embankment thicker, then this will only increase the effectiveness of thermal insulation. If the bathhouse is built of brick and installed on concrete foundation, then it is recommended to fill it with expanded clay almost to the entire height of the foundation strip.

Floor covered with expanded clay “cushion”

Concrete floor

In order for the concrete floor of the bathhouse to be warm, you need to do a number of operations that are carried out after connecting the drain pipe (it must be raised in advance to the height of the future screed). The work consists of the following stages:

The soil is compacted well in the morning, and the walls are covered with a waterproofing compound.
Next, a layer of sand 80 ÷ 100 mm thick is poured onto the ground, moistened and compacted.
Roofing felt is laid on top of the sand, extending onto the walls by 150 ÷ 200 mm. The canvases are laid with an overlap of 120 ÷ 150 mm; it is advisable to fasten them with waterproof tape or thermally glue them together using tar mastic.
Next, expanded clay is poured onto the roofing material in such a way that the future floor screed is approximately 50 mm lower than the height of the foundation.

Next, expanded clay is distributed over the entire surface in an even layer. Additionally, XPS slabs 50 mm thick can be laid on it - they have sufficient rigidity and can easily withstand all loads; do not forget that before laying them, expanded clay should be covered with dense polyethylene.

A reinforcing mesh with cells from 50 to 100 mm is laid on the surface prepared in this way.
Beacons are placed on top of the reinforcing belt, along which it will be aligned.
If the sewer hole is located in the center of the insulated room, then the beacons are placed under small angle to it, so that when leveling the concrete, a slight slope will form on all sides of the room towards the drain.
Further, along the perimeter of the room on bottom part damper tape is glued or otherwise attached to the walls. This measure will preserve the screed from deformation during temperature changes, since compensates thermal expansion of the material.

Prepared concrete, mixed with sand and cement in a ratio of 3:1, is laid on the reinforcing mesh and leveled using building regulations. It is advisable to introduce into the composition special plasticizers that are commercially available - this will improve the quality of the coating. Ready-made ones are often used for filling. building mixtures for screed with an already optimized composition for rooms with high humidity or for external works .
After the screed has hardened and gained strength, it is impregnated with a waterproofing compound () of deep penetration.

When the soil dries, it is laid ceramic tiles. Another option is to install joists with wooden flooring on the concrete floor. Well-treated boards on it should be fixed at a distance of 20 ÷ 30 mm from each other.

Wooden floor

For wooden baths Wooden floors are traditional. To arrange them correctly, in addition to insulation operations, you need to provide high-quality waterproofing. Don’t forget about floor ventilation - for this, special channels must be left in the foundation.

Work on installation and insulation of the floor is carried out in such a sequence:

First of all, a drain pipe is connected to the bathhouse. The drain is usually located in the middle of the room, and all insulation materials and the ceiling are arranged around it.

Roofing material is laid on the compacted soil, which should rise to the walls by 150 ÷ 200 mm.
Expanded clay is laid on top of the waterproofing. The greater its thickness, the better, but between its surface and the floor beams there must be a ventilation distance of at least 200 ÷ 250 mm.
Next, on waterproofed Floor beams are laid in layers of roofing felt over the protruding part of the foundation. All wooden elements The floor must be treated in advance.

Skull blocks are nailed or screwed onto the lower parts of the floor beams, onto which the subfloor boards will be mounted.

The subfloor is covered with a vapor-proof film, which covers both the floor beams and the boards laid between them.
Next, insulation is laid on the subfloor between the floor beams - it can be mineral wool or expanded clay.

The top of the insulation material is covered with another layer of vapor barrier film.

On top is another layer of water vapor barrier

The logs are fixed perpendicular to the floor beams, on which the wooden flooring is placed. A hole is made in the middle - the drain pipe will go into it.

On the style, slats are nailed, cut at an angle of 5-7 degrees towards the drain - they will become a lathing for installing a waterproof wooden floor.
Insulation is placed between the sheathing bars with the foil layer facing up and secured together with foil tape. The thermal insulator must completely cover the sheathing bars.

A leak-proof, well-fitted, finished wooden flooring is laid on top at an angle.

Another insulation option for wooden and concrete floors

In addition to those presented above, there are also a very large number different options insulation of the bath floor. Can you briefly talk about one more thing? possible way flooring using expanded polystyrene. The method is more labor-intensive, but is suitable for both concrete and wooden coverings.

1 - soil;

2- layer of sand;

3 - foam plastic boards;

4 - cement mortar with foam chips;

5 - waterproofing layer;

6 - cement mortar with vermiculite;

7 — concrete screed;

9 - boardwalk.

In this option, the space under the future floor will have to be deepened by 500 ÷ 600 mm, and the soil at its bottom will have to be compacted well.
Then, a layer of sand 50 ÷ 70 mm thick is poured onto the bottom, which is wetted and compacted with a hand tamper.
A dense waterproofing film is laid on top of this layer, which should completely cover the bottom and extend 200-300 mm onto the walls. It must be securely fastened to its walls.
Instead of expanded clay, which was used in the first versions, a layer of expanded polystyrene boards is laid on the film. Its total thickness must be at least 150 ÷ 200 mm.
Next, a screed made of cement mortar and foam chips in proportions 2:1. The thickness of this layer should be 50 ÷ 70 mm. This layer will not only insulate, but also strengthen the slab material laid below.
Then a layer of waterproofing is laid again - for this you can use dense plastic film or roofing felt. The canvases must be fastened together with waterproof tape.
The next layer in this “pie” is a layer of concrete with vermiculite, mixed in a 3:1 ratio. Its thickness should be 50 ÷ 100 mm. - This natural material, which has high thermal insulation properties. Insects and rodents never settle in it, it is not subject to rotting and decomposition. A vermiculite layer will significantly increase the thermal insulation of the floor.

This is what natural material looks like - vermiculite

The table shows the proportions cement-vermiculite solutions and their performance characteristics:

Characteristics of solutions with vermiculite
Cement (kg)	40	30	250	200	150	120	100
Vermiculite (liter)	130	130	130	130	130	130	130
Water (liter)	42.5	41	40	39.5	39	38.5	38
Volumetric weight (kg/m³) dry	60	50	43	39	34	31	29
Compressive strength (kg/cm²)	20	13	10	7	5	2	1
Dry thermal conductivity (W/m×°K)	0.13	0.11	0.1	0,092	0,083	0,075	0,07
Thermal conductivity at 5% humidity (W/m×°K)	0.17	0,145	0.13	0.12	0.105	0.09	0.08
Sound absorption coefficient at frequency 1000 Hz	0.37	0.51	0.54	0,56	0.6	0.64	0.73

The frozen screed is strengthened reinforcement mesh with cells up to 100 mm, and beacons for the upper concrete screed are placed on it. Beacons are fixed to concrete or gypsum mortar, at an angle of 5-7 degrees towards the drain.
Next, concrete is laid out on this structure, in the same proportions and combinations with modifying additives, as described above. The thickness of the screed near the drain should be at least 50mm.
After strengthening the screed, ceramic tiles are laid on it or removable wooden flooring for wet floors is installed.

Boards in this the floor is fixed at a distance of 15 ÷ 20 mm from each other - this will not only allow water to quickly drain from the flooring, but also allow the wood to dry out. In addition, removable ones can be periodically placed outside for ventilation and drying, so you need to foresee their size in advance so that they can easily pass through the bathhouse door.

Insulation of bath walls

It is equally important, in addition to the floor, to reliably insulate the walls and ceiling of bath rooms. The walls and ceiling of a brick or wooden bathhouse are insulated according to the same principle; the only difference between them will be the thickness of the thermal insulation layer. Since wood has a lower thermal conductivity than brick, the latter will require a thicker layer of insulation.

Special attention- insulation of bath walls

The process of wall insulation is carried out as follows:

The walls are treated with an antiseptic composition - it will protect them from the appearance and spread of mold and mildew.
Next, you need to attach a water vapor barrier film to the wall.
The sheathing is installed.
Insulation is placed between the sheathing guides.
Vapor barrier is attached.
Counter battens are nailed down - this will create the necessary ventilation gap.
The facing material is installed.

The sequence of work is general, but for walls made of different materials, has its own characteristics.

Brick walls

Sheathing bars are fixed to the brick wall in increments of 600 mm. The cross-sectional size of the timber must be equal to the thickness of the selected insulation. Usually for brick wall It is taken to insulate slag wool in mats 100 mm thick, which means that the thickness of the sheathing guides should be 100 mm.

Insulation is placed between the bars in the spacer. You can help fix it with a stretched zigzag nylon cord.
The next layer is a water vapor barrier film, which is secured to the sheathing bars. Overlaps between the canvases (at least 150 mm) are glued with waterproof tape.
Next, counter battens are nailed to the bars.
Then foil insulation, 8 ÷ 10 mm thick, is stretched over the entire surface and attached to the slats. The joints are sealed with foil tape.

On top, the entire “pie” is sheathed with wooden clapboard, which is secured to the same counter-lattice slats.

It should be noted that if foil insulation is used in the insulation process, then the additional layer of vapor barrier can be eliminated, since this type of insulation material perfectly retains steam.

Insulation of a log wall

1 - log wall;

2 - basalt insulation with foil surface;

3 - sheathing bars;

4 - lining;

5 - ventilation gap between the insulation and the lining.

The walls of a log bathhouse themselves have low thermal conductivity and retain heat well inside the room, provided that the joints of the logs at the corners and between each other are well sealed. Therefore, insulation is carried out as follows:

Basalt mineral wool with a foil layer is fixed to the wall, which should face the room. The thickness of the insulation is selected from 50 to 80 mm. It can be secured with special fasteners with wide caps - “fungi”, which are recessed into the insulation.
Wooden sheathing bars are nailed vertically or horizontally on top of the insulation.
Next, the wall is sheathed, having a thickness of 10 mm - it is attached to the sheathing bars.

Insulation of timber walls

A wall made of timber should be, just like a log wall, well insulated by itself, that is, all cracks and gaps are caulked with tow. It is easier to attach all the components of the insulation “pie” to it, since it has flat surface, into which fasteners are easily screwed or hammered. Its insulation occurs in the following sequence:

A sheathing made of timber is attached to the wall, at a distance of guides from each other of 600 mm.
Next, insulation material is laid between the bars - it is better if it is mineral wool.
Then the entire structure is covered with rolled foil insulation, which is fixed to the sheathing bars, and the joints of the individual panels are glued together with foil tape.
Counter slats are nailed on top of the bars, which will create a ventilation gap between the insulation and the lining.
At the end of the process, the insulating “pie” is lined with clapboard.

It must be said that there are other options for laying insulation layers, but the ones given above are considered the most popular and frequently used, since they are completely uncomplicated and have long been tested in practice.

Ceiling insulation

The ceiling can be mounted and insulated in three ways - you can choose any of them if it is suitable for the existing structure of the bathhouse.

Panel ceiling

This ceiling is mounted from panels, which already consist of all the layers necessary for vapor barrier, insulation and internal cladding, attached to support bars. Mineral wool with a thickness of at least 100 mm is most often used as insulation in the panels.

The shields are mounted at the bottom and rise up already in finished form. The peculiarity of such insulation is that insulation gaskets must also be laid between the finished panels - this process is carried out after the panels are fixed to the bathhouse ceiling.

Lifting the panels upward can be complicated by the fact that when assembled they have quite a lot of weight, so very often they are lifted in parts and assembled at a height.

false ceiling

A false ceiling is fundamentally different in its design from a panel ceiling, since its installation follows a different principle, somewhat similar to wall insulation.

The frame for such a ceiling is beams attic floor, laid in increments of 600 mm.
On the side of the attic, waterproofing is laid on the floor beams, which should cover the entire ceiling area.
A wooden flooring is fixed to the waterproofing, also from the attic side.
Insulation is placed between the floor beams.

Then the insulation is covered with a vapor barrier or foil material, which is fixed to the floor beams.
The last step is covering the ceiling wooden clapboard.

There is another option for insulating a false ceiling, using other insulation materials, for example, expanded clay. In this case, almost all the work is done from the attic side, except for the finishing of the ceiling surface with clapboard.

Flat ceiling

The floor ceiling also differs from the two already mentioned in its design, in particular - the fact that it is laid directly on the walls of the room, that is, in principle it does not rest on the floor beams. For such a ceiling, boards with a thickness of at least 30 mm are used.

From the attic side, a vapor barrier and insulation are laid on the boards, which are covered on top waterproofing film and plywood or plank flooring.

The advantages of this design include speed and ease of installation, but this ceiling option can only be used with insulation small room baths, with distances between walls no more than 2.5 ÷ 2.7 m.

Detailed publication with a description of all materials necessary for this and step by step instructions can be found on the pages of our portal by following the recommended link.

If the installation of thermal insulation and auxiliary materials If done correctly, the heat in the bath rooms will be retained for a very long time, which will help significantly save on fuel.

In conclusion - a detailed video tutorial on insulating a bathhouse built using frame technology.

Video: insulation and finishing of a frame bath

tanya (Builderclub expert)

Before answering your remaining questions, I’ll summarize the insulation issue. Valeria and I thought that if you are insulating a steam room from the inside, then it would still be better to use non-flammable insulation - mineral wool - as insulation. Eps has a maximum operating temperature of +70 degrees. And if you insulate the steam room from the outside, then there (behind the walls of the steam room) it will not be 70 degrees and EPS can be used without hesitation. But since you cannot insulate all the walls of the steam room from the outside, you will have to insulate them all from the inside. And in the steam room +70 degrees is not even the maximum. Of course, an aluminum vapor barrier (aka a vapor barrier with an aluminum coating) will reflect some of the heat inside the steam room. But, firstly, it is difficult to say exactly what percentage of heat the aluminum vapor barrier will reflect. Secondly, if the temperature behind the vapor barrier is not much lower, for example, about 60 degrees, then it is undesirable to operate EPS constantly at extreme temperatures. So if you are insulating the walls of a steam room from the inside, we recommend using mineral wool, density 50-70 kg/m3.

The design of the steam room wall will be like this. Attach the main sheathing to the expanded clay concrete at a distance equal to the width of the insulation roll. Place insulation between the main sheathing (mineral wool density 50-70 kg/m3). Next, staple an aluminum probarrier to the main sheathing on top of the insulation, and glue the joints. You fill in additional sheathing to secure the facing lining. The thickness of the additional sheathing must be at least 2 cm, so that there is a ventilation gap of at least 2 cm between the vapor barrier and the lining. Well, attach the lining to the additional sheathing.

Now at the junction of the wall and the floor. The roofing material needs to be placed on the wall, approximately 20 cm, and joined hermetically to the aluminum vapor barrier. Glue the joints. Moreover, the vapor barrier should be on top of the roofing material, and not vice versa. You will most likely insulate and vaporize the walls after pouring the final floor screed. Therefore, before pouring the finishing screed, simply leave the releases of the roofing material. And already at the stage of laying the vapor barrier, you will join the lower ends of the vapor barrier with the releases of the roofing material.

Expanded clay concrete does not need to be treated with anything additional. Just carefully tape all the joints of the vapor barrier and don’t forget about ventilation.

Regarding tiles on the walls (2 rows) when internal insulation. If it is important for you to raise these 2 rows of inflows onto the walls, then at the level of these 2 rows, instead of lining, fill a strip of OSB onto the additional sheathing and glue the tiles onto it. True, in this case the tile will most likely protrude slightly beyond the lining. It will be necessary to cover the protrusion with a flashing. Or you can play with the thickness of the additional sheathing - make it thinner under OSB than under the lining, so that the entire wall is smooth without protrusions.

Ask if you have any questions along the way.

answer

Insulating the roof of a bathhouse is an important task, the correct implementation of which determines the temperature and humidity in the steam room and other rooms of the bathhouse. First of all, for proper insulation of the bathhouse roof, it is important to decide whether the bathhouse will be equipped with attic floor or a ventilated attic is made. The sequence and choice of materials for insulating the roof of a bathhouse largely depends on this.

There are two main stages of thermal insulation of the roof in a bathhouse: insulation of the ceiling of the steam room and dressing room and insulation of the roof slopes. The feasibility of the second stage for a bathhouse with an unheated and well-ventilated attic is very controversial - if the temperature in the attic is close to the street temperature, there will be no problem of condensation, and therefore rotting wooden structures. Therefore, in a bathhouse with a cold attic, the roof slope is usually not insulated - this is a waste of money. Ventilation is provided by installing attic windows, and the attic itself is used for drying and storing brooms and other necessary items.

When insulating the roof of a bathhouse with an attic floor, it is necessary to insulate both the ceiling and the roof slope. This will make it possible to arrange a full-fledged recreation room on the second floor. In such a bathhouse, it is necessary to pay close attention to the vapor barrier of the floors in order to avoid an increase in humidity on the second floor. Otherwise, the principles of insulating a bathhouse roof are no different and are performed using similar technology.

Options for bathhouse ceiling insulation and materials used

Insulation of the ceiling can be done using a plank method, when thick boards are laid on the upper crowns of the log house, or by hemming - fastening from below to the floor beams. There is also a panel method of insulation using pre-made multilayer panels.

Thermal insulation of a bathhouse roof can also be natural materials, such as clay mixed with sand, straw or sawdust, and modern insulation materials– mineral or basalt wool. The role of insulation is also played by boards hemmed or laid as a ceiling, so their thickness should be as large as possible for of this type insulation. It is not recommended to use polystyrene foam to insulate the ceiling for two reasons: it is a fire hazard and when heated it emits harmful substances. To insulate the slopes of a bathhouse with an attic floor, you can use polystyrene and other slab foam insulation materials under one condition: the brand of insulation must be non-flammable with the addition of fire retardants, for example, polystyrene foam PSB-S.

In addition, it is necessary to pay attention to the vapor barrier of the ceiling. It is performed from the side of the steam room and usually uses metallized hydro-vapor barrier films, for example. The metallized surface not only insulates the steam room from moisture evaporation, but also reflects infrared radiation, which improves thermal insulation. If insulation is performed using fibrous materials, it is necessary to ensure the removal of moisture from the insulation layer, so they are covered on top with membrane waterproofing with one-way vapor conductivity to the side attic space. When insulating slopes, it is also necessary to ensure one-sided vapor permeability of the entire insulation layer, so that humid air attic room did not condense on the walls and ceiling.

Technology of floor insulation of a bathhouse roof

Floor insulation is most often used in small wooden baths. Thick boards are cut into the upper crowns of the log house by 5-10 cm. The thickness of the boards must be at least 60 mm, since they also play a role load-bearing floors and insulation. They can be lined with vapor barrier and decorative cladding on the bottom, and additionally insulated on top.

The flooring boards are laid across the steam room. To improve thermal insulation properties The ceiling in the penultimate crown is made with recesses along the thickness of the boards. Logs are treated with an antiseptic for interior works, after which the boards are laid, fitting them tightly to each other. For greater tightness, you can use a tongue and groove board.
The inside of the boards is treated with an antiseptic, dried, and then covered with a vapor barrier film, securing it with a construction or furniture stapler. The joints are taped with metallized tape.
The top of the boards is covered with vapor-permeable waterproofing. Vapor permeability is necessary in order to remove water vapor that gets into the floor boards, otherwise they will begin to rot. That is why it is not recommended to use polyethylene film for waterproofing the ceiling. A layer of heat-insulating material is laid on top of the waterproofing. This can be clay mixed with sand or sawdust, expanded clay, slag, as well as modern fibrous materials. The layer of expanded clay or expanded clay should be at least 20 cm.
Mineral or basalt wool with excellent thermal insulation characteristics, laid in a layer of 10 cm. To lay thermal insulation in a bathhouse with an attic floor, it is necessary to first lay bars on the floor, which act as supports for the finished floor. The laying step is from 50 cm. The bars must be thoroughly treated with an antiseptic.
Another layer of waterproofing is placed on top of the insulation. Secure it to the finished floor bars with a stapler. This layer of waterproofing is necessary to protect the insulation layer from leaks or condensation droplets. The finished floor of the attic floor is laid over the waterproofing; for an unheated attic, it is enough to cover the waterproofing with an unplaned board to protect it from damage.

This method differs from the flooring method in that the overlaps are made from above and below ceiling beams, which are mounted in the walls. Such ceilings can be used for baths of any size, both wooden, brick, and block. In this case, the main insulation is placed in the space between the beams on the rough ceiling.

Insulation of slopes is necessary only in the case of a heated attic. In general, the technology for insulating a bathhouse roof is no different from using fibrous materials or polystyrene foam. Insulation can be done as during installation roofing materials, and later. To perform thermal insulation, a kind of “pie” is created, consisting of a vapor barrier on the attic side, waterproofing on the roofing side and a layer of insulation between them.

When insulating the roof, you must remember correct device pipe penetrations - the distance from the pipes to combustible materials must be at least 20 cm. To fulfill this condition, a box is made of sheet iron, and the space around the pipe is filled with non-flammable insulation, for example, stone wool. The pipe passing through the attic floor, in addition, must be insulated from accidental contact - the heating of the pipe in the bathhouse can be very significant, this is especially true for.