A knife is an essential attribute of any kitchen. Today with the release of these cutting devices There are many manufacturing companies involved. In an effort to increase demand, developers decorate their products in different ways. In addition, all kinds of stands and holders are provided for the blades. How to sharpen knives using sandpaper correctly and easily? This question interests many owners, since a well-sharpened blade is simply necessary for cooking. With such a knife, cooking will be a pleasure. Information on how to properly, easily and simply sharpen knives on sandpaper is contained in the article.

What makes knives dull?

According to experts, this problem is faced mainly by those housewives who prefer to cut meat or any other products on hard surfaces. As a result, the blade very quickly becomes unusable. Also, the blade can become dull if there are bones in the meat. To save yourself from the need to carry out daily polishing of the blade, it is advisable to work on special cutting boards. When choosing such products, experts recommend giving preference wooden planks. It is not advisable to use plastic, glass or ceramic ones, as they also dull the cutting edge. The prevailing stereotype that sharpening a knife is the prerogative of men is completely false. A woman can also cope with this task if she knows how to sharpen knives using sandpaper correctly and easily.

About the electric sharpener

Many home craftsmen use angular blades to sharpen blades. grinding machines, which are also popularly called grinders. However, according to experts, this tool is not entirely suitable for this task. This is explained by the fact that grinders do not provide mode adjustment, that is, the owner will not be able to increase or decrease the number of revolutions. The situation is the opposite with an electric sharpener, which many craftsmen call an emery sharpener.

This equipment is equipped with a motor, which rotates the axis with abrasive wheels installed on it. Using sandpaper, you can give the knife its original shape and restore its geometry. For rough work Coarse-grained wheels are used. Craftsmen use fine-grained materials to finalize the blade.

About the requirements for power tools

In addition to the question of how to properly sharpen knives on sandpaper, beginners are also interested in what electrical equipment should be like? As recommended experienced craftsmen, it is advisable to work on a fine-grained abrasive wheel. In addition, the sandpaper should rotate at a speed of 150 revolutions per minute. At high speeds, the metal will overheat, which will negatively affect its cutting properties. Many modern devices are equipped with special clamps that act as guides - they control the angle of contact of the knife edge with the abrasive surface. Read more about how to properly sharpen knives using sandpaper.

Start

Before you begin, you need to know how to properly sharpen the corner of a knife using sandpaper. According to experienced craftsmen, depending on the purpose of the blade, the angle can vary from 20 to 40 degrees. Due to the fact that determining it will be problematic, experts recommend focusing on the width of the approach - the width of the blade that is subject to grinding. If the angle is correct, the width will be the same along the entire edge. If it turns out to be uneven, most likely the master made a mistake somewhere. The optimal width of the inlet is 0.2-0.3 cm. If this figure is higher, for example, 0.4-0.5 cm, then this indicates that the degree of inclination in the knife is too sharp.

About materials for sharpening and straightening

The knife can be edited using a whetstone, grinding stone (a special device in the form of a round file), sandpaper and even on a regular ceramic plate. To sharpen, you will have to acquire a whetstone, special diamond and electric sharpeners. Judging by numerous reviews, most prefer to do this work on sharpening machines.

How to sharpen knives using sandpaper?

Sharpening can be done with two or three movements of the blade along the abrasive. However, it is better to set the equipment at low speeds so that, as the circle rotates, it gradually removes a certain amount of metal from the edge. Some craftsmen (in order to speed up the process) press the knife firmly against the sandpaper. However, you shouldn't do this. Otherwise, the knife, despite sharpening quickly enough, will also quickly become dull. The reason for this is overheating of the metal, which is also called release among specialists. During sharpening, the surface of the knife must be constantly cooled. To do this, place a container with cold water. From time to time the blade is lowered into it as it heats up. should rotate from the butt of the knife to its edge. The blade should be moved across the abrasive in only one direction - from the handle to the tip. After each pass, the surface to be sharpened is carefully inspected and, if necessary, cooled. When sharpening a product with a double-sided cutting edge, the locking angle does not need to be changed. You just need to move the knife to the other side. Many beginners are interested in how to properly sharpen knives made of various steels using sandpaper? Information about this is further in the article.

About sharpening Damascus blades

Judging by reviews from owners, Damascus knives become dull very quickly. Due to the fact that such blades consist of alternating soft and hard steel alloys, electrical equipment cannot be used for such cutting products. Rough interference will lead to a decrease in the unique properties of the metal. The owner of the Damascus will have to limit himself to only manual sharpening. The work is done on an emery block. It should lie on a wooden board. You can use the cutting room. For convenience, it is recommended to place a towel under the stone. Some craftsmen place the sandpaper perpendicularly, while others place it at an angle of 45 degrees.

Before you begin, you need to determine the hardness of the metal. To do this, just look at the sharpening angle. The harder the steel, the larger the angle. Knives should be sharpened using fine-grained whetstone only along the cutting edge. If the knife is jagged, you can correct the situation by using sandpaper with a larger grit. However, the work ends only with “velvet” abrasives. Judging by the reviews, there is often a need to give a Damascus knife an attractive appearance. According to experts, bevels are always polished only before sharpening. If you apply gloss to a finished cutting edge, you can simply round it.

Damask steel knives

Beginners often wonder how to properly sharpen damask steel knives using sandpaper? Like Damascus blades, these cutting products are also considered elite and require careful handling. The peculiarity of such knives is the very high hardness of the alloys used. According to the owners, steel nails can be easily cut with damask blades. Knives are also sharpened by hand using pre-moistened sandpaper.

You should start with coarse grain. Then you can switch to sandpaper with a smaller grit. Finishing is carried out on a ceramic surface. Judging by reviews from home craftsmen, sharpening a knife manually is a rather long process.

In conclusion

According to experts, to check how well a knife is sharpened, you can run it across paper. A blade with a sharp cutting edge will cut the sheet in a straight line. However, blades with a weaker sharpening are also suitable for the kitchen. The main thing is that when cutting vegetables and fruits you get even cubes.

There are many ways to restore the sharpness of a blade. You can sharpen knives by hand or using special devices. Blade processing tools are divided into automatic and semi-automatic. With their help, damaged blades are restored, or cutting edges are simply straightened.

IMPORTANT! We should not forget that with each sharpening the amount of metal on the blade decreases.

We will help the owners cutting tools figure out how to properly sharpen knives using any of the proposed methods.

Processing a blunt instrument on a machine

The industry produces various electric sharpeners for.

The entire mechanism is located in the housing, which makes working on the machine completely safe. No effort or special skills are required, so any housewife can easily cope with this task.

An electric motor rotates an axis on which several circles are located for various purposes. From rough to give the primary shape or restore the geometry of the blade, to polishing, which is used for final finishing.

This tool is very similar to a file: a long shaft round section, with a notch and a handle. It is mainly used for straightening the cutting edge of a knife. This is useful because it allows you to keep the knife in working condition at all times. But if the blade has become very dull, grinding stone will not help you - a major sharpening is necessary.

2. Mechanical sharpener

cook-r.ru

Not a bad thing that every housewife should buy. Well suited for sharpening kitchen knives as it is quick and easy. True, the quality is not always pleasing, and the knives become dull as quickly as they are sharpened. This method is suitable for a kitchen knife, but no more.

3. Electric sharpener

klevin-knife.ru

A great way to quickly and efficiently sharpen knives with any type of blade, as well as scissors and even screwdrivers. The device is capable of sharpening and then polishing any blade in two minutes. It is important that it automatically determines the desired sharpening angle, but we will talk about this below. Such a thing will cost from 2 to 50 thousand rubles, depending on the sharpening speed, guide system and power.

4. Machine with abrasive wheel

kak-eto-sdelano.livejournal.com

This is a professional tool, it is used to sharpen and polish blades to industrial enterprises. Without experience, it is better not to go to the machine: steel is hardened at a certain temperature, so uncontrolled heating on the machine during sharpening can irreparably damage the knife. Leave this method to the professionals.

5. Whetstone

tojiro.spb.ru

Sharpening with a whetstone is one of the most effective ways. This process is not easy, but entertaining. It requires perseverance and some experience working with a bar. For sharpening, two stones are needed: with small grains and large ones.

There are two types of whetstones: natural and artificial. The whole difference is in the grain size: natural stones are usually fine-grained, they are used for polishing. And artificial ones are initially made more universal, with different degrees of grain on different sides of the bar.

How to sharpen knives

vottak.net

Before proceeding with the sharpening process, lower grindstone for 15 minutes in oil or water. This will extend the life of the bar, since steel particles will not get clogged between the grains.

You should start sharpening with a coarse-grained stone. It is important to correctly position the blade relative to the surface of the block, since the final result largely depends on this. The correct sharpening angle is also important: experts advise sharpening the blade at an angle of 20 degrees, but this may vary depending on the type of knife.

• Professional chef's and fillet knives require an angle of 25 degrees.
• Japanese kitchen knives should be sharpened at an angle of 10–20 degrees.
• For hunting blades, an angle of 30 to 45 degrees is used. A larger angle is required for greater resistance to dulling.
• For household kitchen knives, an angle of 30 degrees is sufficient.

The rule here is simple: if you want to make the knife sharper, we reduce the sharpening angle, and for greater resistance to dulling, we increase it.

You need to sharpen with continuous movements, lifting the handle at the moment when the block reaches the bend of the blade. This will maintain the sharpening angle of the cutting edge. It is important that the movement of the blade is perpendicular to the edge, while applying slight pressure to the blade.

Grinding

lastday.club

When the main sharpening has been completed, we begin grinding. For this you will need a fine-grained stone. Grinding is necessary to level the surface and remove burrs. The technology remains unchanged.

Conclusion

In theory, everything is quite clear, but in practice, the process of sharpening a knife is far from the simplest. You will have to be patient and attentive: one awkward movement, and all the work will go down the drain. Theory is great, but there is no way to do this without practice. And the process itself is not cheap, since good sharpening stones cost a lot of money.

If you just need to sharpen your knives, without all this fetish, take an electric sharpener. The result will be the same, and this method will also save your nerves and time.

It is simply impossible to describe all the nuances of how to properly sharpen knives in one article, but this is not always necessary. Especially if an ordinary kitchen knife needs sharpening or you are just a beginner who needs to start somewhere.

• In fact, sharpening a kitchen knife to sharpness at home can be done easily and quickly. But the difficulty is that this must be done in such a way that the sharpness of the blade is preserved for a long time, and at the same time too much steel is not removed from the blade.

In this material we will try to simply and clearly tell you how to properly sharpen a knife with a whetstone. After all, this method is not only basic and accessible to everyone, but also the most effective. Except step by step instructions on sharpening and finishing, here you will find a selection of training videos and an overview of alternative methods - from sharpening systems to the bottom of a ceramic plate.

A little about choosing stones

Sharpening stones come in the following types:

• Ceramic;
• Diamond;
• Natural;
• Japanese water stones.

If you wish, once you gain experience, you can buy some solid and expensive diamond stones or Japanese water stones. However, it is better to start with ordinary ceramic bars (such as “Boats”), which are sold in every household goods store. They are wear-resistant, durable and affordable. The only drawback is their uneven abrasion.

Here are tips to help you find the right assistant:

• What size should the block be? Ideally, it is 1.5-2 times longer or at least not shorter than the knife blade. The width and shape of the bar is not important.
• When purchasing a block, make sure it is flat and free of chips.
• To start, you can buy one medium-hard all-purpose whetstone. But if you wish, buy one block with two sides of different grain sizes or two stones with a large and half the grain size. In the future, a couple more stones may be added to your collection.
• It's best to try to get a couple of Soviet-made donkeys, say, at flea markets or from your grandfather. Bars marked “Made in the USSR” have uniform-sized grains and high-quality binding material.

To bring the knife to razor sharp, in addition to sharpening stones, you can also buy GOI abrasive paste, which we will also tell you about working with.

7-step instructions for sharpening and finishing a kitchen knife

So, in sharpening a knife, one goal is to wear off enough metal from the blade to cutting edge became acute again. You need to start work with a coarse-grained abrasive and finish with a fine-grained one.

It is important to remember the following principles of sharpening knives:

• The most important thing is to choose the optimal sharpening angle and maintain it along the entire cutting edge while sliding along the block.
• Movements should be smooth, without pressure.
• All bars should be moistened with water, or better yet soap solution: before sharpening (so that the blade glides better and metal dust does not clog the pores), during the process (to remove the resulting suspension) and at the end, to clean the whetstone.

And one more important advice– the first time it’s better to practice on a knife that you don’t mind ruining. Especially if your main knife is too good and expensive. Well, let's start practicing.

Step 1. Rinse the stone with water, and then run over it, say, with a sponge with a drop of dishwashing liquid.

Step 2. Next, sit down at the table and place the stone on wooden board, for example, a cutting room. You can place a towel under the stone. For some it is more convenient to place the block perpendicular to themselves, and for others at an angle of approximately 45 degrees. Over time, you will understand how it is more convenient for you to work.

Step 3. Now you need to decide on the sharpening angle and fix the position of the knife. What should the angle be? The general principle is that the smaller it is, the sharper the blade, and the larger it is, the longer the blade retains its sharpness.

• Regular kitchen knives are sharpened to an angle of 40-45 degrees. If you are sharpening a fillet knife (designed for slicing thin pieces of fish, poultry and meat), then you should sharpen it sharper - at an angle of 30-40 degrees. The selected value must be divided by 2, and then we will get the angle that should be between the blade and the surface of the block. That is, to sharpen a blade at 45 degrees, you need to sharpen each side at 22.5 degrees to the sharpening surface.

A simple technique shown in the photo below will help you fix the knife at an angle of 22.5 degrees.

• Remember, you should try to stick to the chosen angle throughout the entire work.

Step 4. Place the knife across the block so that the upper edge of the handle is above the lower edge of the stone. Holding the handle with one hand and the blade with the other, we begin to slide along the block away from ourselves along the trajectory shown in the picture below.

Watch a short and clear video:

• The point is that the cutting edge sliding along the stone should always be perpendicular to the direction of movement.
• At the bend of the blade, the knife handle needs to be slightly raised to maintain the selected angle.
• Remember also that you can’t put pressure on the blade, but you shouldn’t give it any slack either.

Thus, you need to pass the blade along the stone about 40-50 times, namely until a “burr” (burr, microsaw) appears along the entire length of the cutting edge. Its appearance will tell you that the excess metal has worn out and there is no point in grinding further. Then you need to turn the blade over and repeat the same steps. Clearly in the video:

• A burr is a small roughness that is difficult to see, but can be felt by carefully running your finger along the edge of the blade (but not along the edge, so as not to cut yourself).

Burr of a sharpened knife

During operation, a suspension will appear on the blade - metal dust, which must be periodically washed off with water.

Step 5. So, the burrs have appeared, now we proceed to finishing. To do this, we repeat the same manipulations on a stone with half the grain size. Alternative way finishing - with the help of musat.

• Musat is a steel rod of oval or round cross-section with longitudinal notches. It is only suitable for editing and maintaining sharpness, but not for sharpening a knife. It is recommended to edit the knife with musat every time before and after work.

How to sharpen a kitchen knife with musat can be seen in the following video master class from the respected knifemaker Gennady Prokopenkov, who, by the way, specializes in making kitchen knives.

Step 6. If desired, you can bring your knife to a razor sharpness. To do this, take any leather or leather belt, treat it with GOI, Dialux or any other abrasive paste, and then do the same steps, but only in the direction from the cutting edge.

Step 7. Finally, we check the quality of sharpening. This is done very simply. It is enough to cut a tomato or cut paper. If you wanted to achieve razor sharpness, then you need to try to shave the hair on your arm. The sharpest knives can even cut hair, as shown in the photo below, but in the kitchen such sharpness is not required for the most ordinary knife.

Alternative sharpening methods

If your kitchen knife is a simple and inexpensive “hard worker” and/or you just don’t want to delve into the “knife culture”, then we recommend using an electric sharpener, a roller knife or a sharpening system for sharpening at home. What are their pros and cons?

• An electric sharpener sharpens knives perfectly and quickly, but even the highest quality models remove too much material from the blades, thereby shortening their service life. Another disadvantage of an electric sharpener is that a good device costs more than $200.
• A roller knife is an inexpensive and easy-to-use option. With its help, you can quickly sharpen a kitchen knife, but, unfortunately, the sharpness of the blade will not last long and the knife will deteriorate over time. The most trusted tool among roller scissors is the one from Fiskaris (pictured). Do not confuse a roller blade with a V-shaped one. The latter is an option for the most frugal.

• Sharpening systems are good because they allow you to more accurately set and maintain an angle. There are different types of such sharpeners - with blade fixation (manufacturers DMT and Lanski) and with fixation of the stones themselves at a certain angle (Spyderco Triangle Sharpmaker). Separately, we can highlight a sharpening system in which you can select the desired angle and control the position of the knife - this is the Edge Pro Apex Knife Sharpening System. Each system has its own pros and cons. For example, on sharpeners with a fixed blade it is inconvenient to sharpen wide chef knives, but on a triangle from Spyderco the knives are straightened rather than sharpened, and you can only choose an angle of 30 or 40 degrees. However, for kitchen knives these are the angles that are needed, and using a triangle is very simple. Detailed review and the operating instructions for the Spyderco sharpener can be seen in the following video.

What are the disadvantages of Apex Edge Pro? Perhaps this is just a high price - $245. However, to sharpen kitchen knives, you can buy a Chinese copy of this sharpener (for example, on Aliexpress).

There is another clever way to sharpen a knife at home - using a rough mark on the bottom of a ceramic mug or plate. The principle of operation is still the same - maintaining the angle, smooth movements, maintaining the RK (cutting edge) perpendicular to the direction.

Source: https://kitchendecorium.ru/accessories-decor/posuda/kak-natochit-nozh.html

How to properly sharpen knives made of different steels

There are many ways to restore the sharpness of a blade. You can sharpen knives manually or using special tools. Blade processing tools are divided into automatic and semi-automatic. With their help, damaged blades are restored, or cutting edges are simply straightened.

We will help owners of cutting tools figure out how to properly sharpen knives using any of the proposed methods.

Processing a blunt instrument on a machine

The industry produces various electric knife sharpeners.

The entire mechanism is located in the housing, which makes working on the machine completely safe. No effort or special skills are required, so any housewife can easily cope with this task.

An electric motor rotates an axis on which several abrasive wheels for various purposes are located. From rough to give the primary shape or restore the geometry of the blade, to polishing, which is used for final finishing.

Since the sandpaper has a fixed shape, the contact angle is set by guides that can be adjusted or simply changed depending on the type of tool.

To work, you need to know at what angle to sharpen your knife. To avoid mistakes, when purchasing, you should ask the seller what the parameters of the blade you are purchasing are, or take measurements on a new tool.

After setting the correct angle, we begin sharpening:

• If the cutting edge is very dull or has jagged edges, we first process it using coarse sandpaper. The knife moves with little effort from the handle to the tip. After each pass, we check the degree of sharpening to prevent excessive material removal. Then we move on to a fine-grained polishing pad;
• To restore the sharpness of a normal blade, it is enough to edit it on a polishing wheel;

Each machine comes with instructions that indicate the direction of sharpening, as well as the parameters of the sanding wheels and guides.

Is it effective to sharpen knives using sandpaper or can it ruin the blade?

Almost any garage or shed has electric sharpener(emery). Many home craftsmen use an angle grinder for these purposes - but this does not change the essence.

So, we have a fixed electric motor with an installed abrasive wheel. It's good if there is a speed controller. However, most of these devices have fixed speeds. A picture immediately appears with a spectacular sheaf of sparks flying out from under the blade of a knife.

Two or three movements - and the edge is sharp again. It is this method that is the biggest mistake. At high speed and strong pressure, the steel overheats, it “releases”, or even worse – annealing. It would seem that a well-sharpened knife will very soon become dull again.

The next question is how to press the blade? To the flat side of the abrasive or to the outer surface?

The correct angle of the knife blade when sharpening on sandpaper

Both methods are acceptable if the technology is followed:

1. The abrasive should be fine-grained; you are not sharpening a hoe. Material – electrocorundum;
2. Rotation speed no more than 150 rpm;
3. The surface must be cooled. Plain water is enough. If it is not possible to continuously supply liquid to the contact point, it is necessary to install a bath under the circle. Of course, care must be taken to ensure that splashes do not enter the electric motor;
4. And most importantly - at least a tool rest, or better yet, a device for controlling and fixing the angle of the blade.

Pay attention to the angle of the blade when sharpening

There are similar devices for working on a flat side. Basic principles of sharpening on an emery wheel:

• The rotation of the abrasive should be from the butt to the cutting edge;
• The knife moves across the circle in only one direction - from the handle to the tip. After each movement, the blade is inspected and time is given to cool down;
• The pressure of the blade to the sandpaper should be minimal;
• If the sharpening is double-sided, the angle of the fixing device does not change, we simply move the knife to the other side.

Despite all the disadvantages, sharpening a knife with emery also has its advantages. Only with the help of an abrasive wheel can one obtain a so-called concave lens, when the descent planes change their angle to a more acute one as they approach the working edge.

This technology is practically not used for sharpening professional tools. Real craftsmen who know the rules of sharpening knives do it only by hand. However, if you have no pretensions to a samurai sword, the method is quite suitable.

Manual sharpening methods

As a rule, not everyone has an electric knife sharpener in their kitchen, so let’s look at several options for manual sharpening.

First look detailed video: How to sharpen a knife with a whetstone. Having mastered simple techniques sharpening with a whetstone, you can always correct your knife without contacting a specialized service.

Let's start with the classics - touchstone

Knives have been sharpened this way since their invention. A whetstone is a flat, abrasive stone with a fine grain. Originally used natural materials, today sharpening stones are factory-made and have excellent characteristics.

Popular: Do-it-yourself winch - simple manufacturing methods

The most common way– holding the blade at a certain angle, make circular movements. An indispensable condition is that the whetstone must be wet. Despite all the primitiveness, the sharpening turns out to be of quite high quality.

There is also small-scale mechanization. Only the concept is different - the knife is fixed on a stand, and the emery moves across the blade with the help of a directed rod.

Such devices are widely made by hand, and they work no worse than factory ones.

The only drawback of such devices is that the work is done too slowly, and the surface of the blade is either straight or faceted. For the vast majority of blades, this is more than enough.

How to sharpen knives with musat, and what is it?

Musat, or rule, is a sword-shaped rod with a handle. The surface of the tool can be metal, ceramic or sprayed. There are even diamond musats (of course, we are talking about diamond chips).

In one form or another, you will find this device in any professional kitchen. Recently, it has become fashionable to keep musats in the house.

By and large, this device should not be used for sharpening, but rather for finishing straightening the blade. Chefs refresh their cutting edges from time to time during the working day, nothing more.

You just need to do it correctly:

Its tip should rest against something, preferably wooden surface. The knife is pressed at an acute angle by the handle to the rod (in the area of ​​the musat handle).

Then, with an energetic movement, the blade is lowered to the tip of the tool, while simultaneously pulling the cutting edge to the nose. Such movements should be made by alternately changing the side of the blade.

For a professional, the sharpening process resembles a circus show. You will not be able to sharpen a dull knife with this device. But it’s easy to properly straighten a cutting edge.

Several ways to edit a knife with musat in this video

How to sharpen knives against each other correctly

Sometimes a situation arises when there is no sharpening device at hand, but you urgently need to correct a dull blade. In this case, you can sharpen the knife on the knife.

The cutting edge of one knife is straightened (or even sharpened) on the back surface (butt) of the second. Of course, this method is only suitable for massive long blades.

After performing one and a half to two dozen energetic movements, you will restore the sharpness of the edge for a while. This method cannot be considered a full-fledged sharpening.

Popular: Do-it-yourself ball joint remover - save on tools

The best metals - how to sharpen?

When sharpening a knife, everything matters: effort, tilt, beginning and end point of movement. and it all depends on the quality of the steel.

Damascus steel knife

This name makes any connoisseur of edged weapons feel a rapid heartbeat. Meanwhile, Damascus knives also tend to become dull. Unless, of course, they are under glass in a home collection.

There can be no talk of any electric sharpeners. The blade consists of alternating soft and hard grades of steel, which with such rough intervention will simply lose their unique properties. Therefore, only hand sharpening.

Before starting work, you need to understand how hard the material is. This can be determined by looking at the sharpening angle. The sharper it is, the harder the steel.

Knife blade sharpening technology

No matter what material you use to sharpen, Damascus knives are sharpened only along the blade. This golden rule, neglecting it will simply ruin the blade. And it is best to sharpen this unique steel with a fine-grained whetstone. Moreover, you need to start from larger grains, gradually moving to “velvet”.

If there are jagged edges, you will have to grind off the entire length of the edge.

In this video, the master gives an example of sharpening Damascus steel knives, without claiming that the method is ideal.

Damask steel knife

No less eminent fellow in terms of eliteness of the blade. feature - the highest hardness of the alloy. With the tip of a damask knife you can cut a steel nail or corner.

Therefore, sharpening such a blade should be taken very seriously. Damask steel is sharpened on a wet whetstone, first with coarse grains (the so-called roughing stone). Then we move on to sharpening (fine grit), and bring the blade to the ceramic surface.

The process is long, but the result is worth it.

Watch the video: Sharpening a damask knife using a hand sharpener. At the end of the video there is a demonstration of the tip of the blade.

A selection of videos on the topic - how to sharpen a knife with a whetstone

How to properly sharpen a knife on a stone. A guide for beginners.

Resuscitation of a rusty knife, or sharpening the blade on stones from a Japanese master

Watch this video - how to sharpen a knife on a whetstone to razor sharpness? And at the end of the lesson, the master will shave himself with this knife!

How to properly sharpen knives with a whetstone - video example

Source: http://obinstrumente.ru/ruchnoj-instrument/kak-pravilno-tochit-nozhi.html

Knife - indispensable tool housewife in the kitchen. Over time, the blade loses its sharpness, becomes dull, and using it becomes painful. There are many ways to properly sharpen a knife. The sharpness of the blade depends on the material, the right tool and the sharpening angle. The stores offer an assortment of handmade and automatic devices allowing you to sharpen the blade yourself.

How to sharpen knives correctly

A sharp knife is the main condition for the effective and safe work of a professional cook and housewife. When cutting products, small particles of steel come off the edge surface. The blade becomes dull, forcing you to put more effort into cooking. The sharpening process is the restoration of the geometric shape of the cutting edge. The choice of device for this purpose depends on the material of the knife and the skill of the sharpener.

The arsenal of tools for restoring the sharpness of an edge includes a set of devices from a file to a universal automatic sharpener. The devices have varying effectiveness; if used incorrectly, they will lead to damage to the blade. If you have nothing on hand other than a file, use it with caution. The tool leaves scratches on hard steel, but removes a significant layer of metal from a soft surface.

At what angle should you sharpen a knife?

There is no universal value for the sharpening angle. Its value varies depending on the material and purpose of the knife. Special and homemade devices will help determine the angle of the blade:

• The edge is clamped with scissors, and the angle between the halves is measured with a protractor. The measurement error is 1.
• Professionals use a special laser device with a scale.
• In factories and repair shops, the indicator is measured with a mechanical inclinometer.

The optimal sharpening angle for knives differs depending on their purpose:

• household kitchen knife – 30-35;
• for fish processing – 25;
• cutting – 25-30;
• fruity – 15;
• for processing vegetables – 35;
• for cutting – 40-45;
• dining room – 55-60.

What to do to prevent shoes from slipping in winter

The size of the angle affects the sharpness of the blade - the lower the value, the sharper the edge. But it should be noted that the time for using such a tool is limited.

What is the best way to sharpen a cutting edge?

The following devices will help restore the sharpness of the blade:

• grindstone;
• Musat;
• mechanical sharpener;
• sharpening machine;
• electric sharpener.

When choosing a sharpening device, you need to study its properties and features of use.

Grindstone

A proven, reliable and easy-to-use tool for sharpening a kitchen knife is a whetstone. It has been used by generations of men to sharpen dull blades by hand. The devices have rectangular shape, the surface of the stones differs in the amount of abrasive. A coarse-grained stone was used at the beginning of the procedure, and a fine-grained one was used at the grinding stage.

You can sharpen a blade with a stone at any angle from 15 to 45. Sharpening stones differ in the size of the abrasive, as well as in the method of surface treatment. Before starting the procedures for sharpening the blade, one type of device is briefly immersed in water, and the second is coated with mineral oil. The wet surface prevents the abrasive from clogging with small sawdust.

To properly sharpen a flat knife, you need to move the blade along a block fixed on horizontal surface. Having free hands, one controls the sharpening angle, and the other presses the blade to the stone.

The unshakable rule of work is to move the knife with the cutting edge forward. The sides of the blade are sharpened one by one. The signal to switch to a fine abrasive is the formation of burrs. Using the second block, the edge is sanded until matte.

The blade can be fine-tuned using steel wool. After sharpening, the blade is washed with cold water.

Blade straightening musat

Musat is a solid rounded steel rod with a comfortable handle. It is recommended to use a blade straightening device. It is difficult for a beginner to work with musat; he will have to control the force of pressing the blade while holding both objects in his hands. The rod of the device is made of various materials:

• metal - the surface has frequent notches, you need to sharpen the blade at an angle of 20, moving down and towards you;
• diamond or ceramic - a rod with a fine coating structure is used for finishing and grinding.

Technology of working with the tool:

1. The musat is placed vertically - the sharp end rests against the table, and the device is held by the handle.
2. The blade is moved in an arc - from the base to the tip of the blade.
3. The force applied to the blade should be distributed evenly.
4. Downward movements at an angle of 20-25 are performed on one side and the other of the blade.

Grinding machine

Manual tools for sharpening knives can be replaced with electric ones. A grinding machine with an electric motor is equipped with an abrasive wheel. It can keep the blade sharp for a long time.

Professional sharpeners work with the machine at a low speed of rotation of the wheel - 200-300 revolutions. The danger for a beginner is overheating of the blade. When excessive pressure is applied to the home knife and the rotation speed is high, the metal heats up and then slowly cools down.

Tempering or annealing of the steel occurs. These processes reduce its hardness, the blade quickly dulls and crumbles.

Let's figure out how to properly sharpen knives grinding machine. The main condition for working is regular wetting of the blade with water. It is enough to place a container with cold liquid under the circle. The sharpening machine is equipped with two disks - one with a large abrasive for sharpening, the second for grinding. The sharpening angle is adjusted independently.

Electric knife sharpener

Self-sharpening a blade for people who are far from manual labor can turn into a long procedure with questionable results. Special device– an electric sharpener will return the sharpness of the blade to the edge. Abrasive discs are installed in a plastic case; the blade will be sharpened on both sides at a set angle. Mechanical models They are designed on a similar principle, but they use physical force to sharpen them. The device records the optimal sharpening angle for kitchen knives.

How to sharpen a ceramic knife

Steel is not the only material for quality knives. Kitchen utensils with ceramic blades have become popular due to their high strength and sharpness. Its cutting part does not oxidize upon contact with any types of products. Can ceramic knives be sharpened? Yes, after 2-3 years of intensive use, the cutting edge requires restoration. The high strength of ceramics limits the range of turning tools.

What can you grow in your apartment or on your balcony that is healthy and tasty?

As an advertising ploy, manufacturers offer a free sharpener along with the knife. This device cannot be used for its intended purpose; it is made of the same material as the blade, so it will not cope with sharpening. For ceramics, a sharpener with CBN or diamond coating is suitable. Electric sharpeners will help restore the sharpness of the blade. The advantages of the device include the following facts:

• The sharpening angle is adjusted automatically;
• processing is carried out on one or both sides, depending on the factory sharpening;
• edge sharpness at the level of professional chef's knives;
• The device is safe to use.

Electric sharpeners with diamond coating are an expensive purchase; if you have a limited budget, models with CBN parts are recommended. Before purchasing, check the documents and certificates of the product, this will protect you from counterfeiting.

The ceramic blade is sharpened by hand. For the procedure, a sharpening stone or grinding stone with diamond powder is used. Alternative affordable option– a tool with CBN chips.

Checking the sharpness of the blade

After proper sharpening, the blade becomes sharp. You can check the quality of work in several ways:

• cut a sheet of paper folded in half by weight - if an even cut is achieved;
• check the blade against the light - the absence of glare is an indicator of high-quality sharpening;
• cut a ripe tomato, if the skin is not crushed, the job is done well.

Rules of care

Regardless of the manufacturer's brand and blade material, there are general recommendations allowing you to maintain the sharpness of the blade for a long time:

1. Do not wash the blade with hot water; salts dissolved in it promote active oxidation of the metal.
2. Store knives separately from other cutlery. Forks and spoons scratch the surface of the blade.
3. For storage, it is recommended to use cardboard covers, a wooden knife stand or a magnetic strip.
4. Products should be cut on wooden boards; the use of ceramic and plastic products leads to chipping and damage to the edges.

Proper sharpening of knives at home is a guarantee of their long-term operation. Sharp blade in in capable hands The chef is capable of creating culinary miracles.

Posts about sharpening from the basics to the professional level will be posted here sequentially.

Stay tuned.

Professional (Jumapili)  SHARPENING FOR BEGINNERS 1.

Conventionally, stones are divided into three categories:
1. rough to form an edge;
2. medium for obtaining a preliminary cut;
3. finishing, to obtain the highest possible sharpness.
In fact, depending on the condition, there are more stones than the blade, since the difference in grain size between abrasives should be 2 times different. with rare exceptions, but more on that later. A beginner will not be able to handle that many stones. Therefore it is better to use more in a simple way for beginners. This is sandpaper.
It is easier to buy, if necessary, sheets of paper from 280-320 grit to 2500 grit and higher. yes, they are short-lived, but the whole set will be cheaper than one water stone at 1000 grit.

Professional (Jumapili)  SHARPENING FOR BEGINNERS 2.

PREPARATION OF THE WORKPLACE.

It is important to secure it when you have a sharpening stone.

The Japanese from Rockstead use the device shown in the photographs to attach the skins. The skin can also be attached stationery clips to a smooth and even surface, or glue it with double tape to a smooth block. If you hold the sharpening stone with your hands, then everything is simple, but if the stone is large, then it is important that it does not slide on the table, otherwise it will not be sharpening but torture.
1. The stone must be heavy so as not to slip.
2. If the stone is light, then it should be laid on a non-slip surface, preferably on a rubber pad.
3. Clamp the stone into a special holder to make work easier.

Professional (Jumapili)  SHARPENING FOR BEGINNERS 3
SHARPENING ANGLE.
The sharpening angle is the most important characteristic knife, which determines cutting properties tool and depends on two aspects: the material of the blade and its area of ​​application. Various sources They generally give the same angle values ​​and the correspondence of these values ​​to the specific use, for example, 10°-15° is the sharpening angle for razors and scalpels, 15°-25° is the angle for chef’s and fillet knives, and 25°-40° - sharpening angle for hunting and universal knives (tourist, camping). You need to understand one thing - by reducing the sharpening angle, the cutting properties of the blade increase, but the strength of the metal decreases, and at the same time, high angle It is advisable to withstand sharpening at high steel characteristics and then use the knife primarily for heavy work (cutting up carcasses, chopping bones, etc.).
Explanations for the schematic drawing of the blade:
1.Cutting edge;
2. Supply;
3.Sharpening angle;
4. Descent;
5. Butt.

Professional (Jumapili)  SHARPENING FOR BEGINNERS 4
SETTING THE SHARPENING ANGLE.

And what about the bikers from the 1993 film Beyond the Law? If you remember, Momert was there at 23-24 minutes, when the mechanic asks the police agent if he understands engines.
This is the reaction that Dan Saxon has and you have, when reading articles on sharpening, you reach the opus, set the angle to 15-20, etc. degrees. How? This is precisely what no one teaches.
There is a stone or, as we defined it for beginners, sandpaper. There is a knife, but how to sharpen it if you don’t know how to take the knife, or how to maintain an angle, or what movements to make. So let's start with these ESSENTIALS that many people miss.
METHOD ONE
Use a template to maintain the angle automatically. Especially if there is no angle, but there is an ovl made on a glass board by the wife, mother, mother-in-law, etc. There was a post about this simple sharpener earlier. Stand for half sharpening angle. How to sharpen is shown in the video. You can use any board with sandpaper attached, since we took it to save money. Place it at the desired angle. So that it does not wobble, fasten it as you wish and comfortably. A protractor will help you. Or cut blank stands from unnecessary pieces to the desired angles.
If you are a beginner, then sharpen as if on a belt with the paste on yourself. You can also sharpen for grain to practice pressure. You should never press too hard to avoid cutting through the paper. If you are cutting, then you are doing it wrong: you are pressing too hard or maintaining the angle incorrectly.

The attached post describes how to work with such a sharpener. At least to make a primary wedge. http://vk.com/zatochka.nozhej? w=wall-100724972_406/all

Professional (Jumapili)  SHARPENING FOR BEGINNERS 5

Setting the sharpening angle using improvised methods.

We all went to school and almost certainly all forgot about toigonometry. Sines and cosines. They were never useful to us before, but now they will help us. We know the width of the knife. No? Hmm, let's take a ruler and measure. Place the knife on the stone at any angle. By eye or with the same ruler, measure the height from the middle of the butt of the knife to the stone. We divide this height by the width of the blade and get the sine of the angle between the blade and the stone. Or the sine of half the sharpening angle or the existing sharpening angle or the angle at which you want to sharpen the knife. It's simple.

Using the laws of trigonometry, you can obtain a table for determining the sharpening angle depending on the width of the blade. That is, if you want to get an angle of 20 degrees, you must divide the width of the blade by 3 and raise the butt of the knife above the sharpening stone by this amount.

Angle of sharpening to the side.
Divide the blade width by: 20° - L/3
15° - L/4
12° - L/5
10°- L/6
8 - L/°7
5° - L/11

Professional (Jumapili)  SHARPENING FOR BEGINNERS 6.

KNIFE GRIP. MOVEMENTS PARALLEL TO THE CHEST.

The video explains the main points on how to hold a knife without much tension in order to maintain a strong angle for a long time. An example of moving a knife in the “Milovidov style”, because that’s how Milovidov sharpened it in his video about sharpening.

How to lift a knife if the straight section ends and a recursive or convex part of the edge begins. Why can't you put pressure, etc.

Professional (Jumapili)  SHARPENING FOR BEGINNERS 7.

KNIFE GRIP. MOVEMENT WITH THE KNIFE FROM THE CHEST.

Continuation of the previous part. It tells you how to hold a knife correctly in order to maintain the sharpening angle when moving away from you and toward you. Why is it advisable to sharpen by turning the knife at an angle to the stone? What does this give when sharpening on thin stones? Safety precautions. We always keep our fingers on the rocks.

Professional (Jumapili)  SHARPENING FOR BEGINNERS 8
SCABID WITH SINGLE-SIDED SHARPENING. CHISEL TYPE.

Let's consider the currently popular special case of a blade.

Many people think that since a knife is sharpened on one side, then it must be sharpened on one side. Does the burr probably fall off on its own or not form? This is not true. A burr always forms. And you always have to clean it up. How to do this with a chisel knife and what nuances to take into account, watch the video.

Professional (Jumapili)  SHARPENING FOR BEGINNERS 9.
CONTROL OF GRAIN TRANSITION. FINISHING STONES.

We sharpen, we sharpen, but until when? If we constantly change the side of sharpening, then if the knife starts to cut, we have sharpened it. This is on a rough stone or sandpaper to form a wedge. But such sharpening, when rough and aggressive, is very unstable. What abrasive to use next. The rule of two will help us here. Each subsequent stone should be at least 2 times smaller in grain size than the previous one. That is, if you sharpened at 50-60 microns, then the next one is 25-30 microns. Or between them if we want to get a cleaner surface. 40 for example. And so we move on.
But we switch to a new grit only when we have polished the edge to the limit of the current abrasive. And this is determined either visually, which is difficult without a microscope, since you can see it with your eyes or through a magnifying glass at the risk of a 14-micron abrasive... Goodbye vision.
This is where a hangnail helps. The steel is ductile and the tip of the edge bends under load. Like dulling an edge. But here he will help us. If we sharpen on one side, then when the abrasive reaches the edge of the edge, it will certainly begin to bend in the other direction, regardless of whether you are sharpening towards the grain or away from the grain. Of course, if you don’t have ceramics and some other types of steels, which the friend below correctly mentioned. In those cases, instinct and experience will help. So, if you sharpened on one side and a burr formed along the entire length of the edge, then you sharpened that side of the edge. Turn the knife over and sharpen the other side. Has a burr formed? We remove it by sharpening the knife, alternating sides with each movement, on the abrasive on which it was sharpened.
Once the burr has been removed from both sides, we move on to the next abrasive, according to the principle written above. And so we sharpen it to the limit, which is sufficient for a beginner. And here it is important NOT to PRESSURE. The harder you press, the faster a burr will form under pressure, but this will not be an indication that you have removed the risks from the previous stone.
A finish of 7-10 microns is sufficient for a good cut. Or 5. according to various Japanese standards, this is 1000-3000 grit, which is quite enough for most people for their tasks. Most steels cut and shave perfectly on this. This is often the sharpening limit for some steels due to their structure. For example, there is no point in sharpening high-speed cutters above 2000-3000. They will start to soap.
Here, at the finishing grain size indicated above, we sharpen the knife according to our pattern. And then we begin to grind it with minimal pressure, changing sides as we pass to reduce the formation of a burr. Steels have different ductility, and therefore soft steels are more difficult to sharpen - the burr just wanders wildly. We have already sharpened it to a cut that will satisfy us, and we move on to the leather. CLEAN, without any abrasive applied.
We sharpen on the skin towards the butt, away from the grain, so as not to cut it. Due to its structure, the skin is slightly abrasive. That is, it can catch the thinnest burr and either break it off, forming a jagged edge, or straighten it. We hold the knife at an angle to the belt strictly 90 degrees. Not 30-45, as with the main sharpening, but strictly even. THIS IS IMPORTANT.
We edit the skin, changing sides, checking the cut as many times as you think is sufficient. Here a recipe like 10 times per side will not help. They became different. And then main criterion control - RESULT OBTAINED. That's it.

Again.
1. Prepare the workplace.
2. Set the sharpening angle using the indicated methods.
3. Sharpen the knife according to the diagram, changing the grain size.
4. We finally remove the burr.

It's really simple, only now you know how. The most difficult thing is to get the starting point of support. An angled edge that you can then simply lay the knife on. When there is an angle. It becomes easier to sharpen further.

GOOD SUCCESS TO EVERYONE.

Professional (Jumapili)  SHARPENING FOR BEGINNERS 10.
An example of sharpening on a pocket whetstone. Field option. You wouldn’t take a machine with a bunch of stones on a hike. And it’s not that difficult to master trimming a previously well-sharpened knife on such a block. Yes, and useful away from civilization and especially when hunting. The carcass is getting cold, and the knife is stuck on the dirty skin. Do not butcher the carcass with a DULL KNIFE. This will piss anyone off.

Professional (Jumapili)  SHARPENING FOR BEGINNERS 11

Preparation abrasive stones to work.

ALIGNMENT OF ABRASIVE STONES.

Abrasive stones, artificial or natural, must be leveled before work and cleared of clogging, if present. Without leveling the plane of the stone, we will not be able to properly control the angle between the approach and the surface of the stone, this will lead to a violation of the angle and a collapse of the edge. Imagine that you have worked on an unleveled stone. Your chances of controlling the work on the edge are very small; the sharpening angle changes depending on where the supply is located on the stone.
First you need to check the flatness of the working surface of the stone. This can be done, for example, with a metal ruler (but not very flexible), placing it edge-on on the stone at opposite angles and placing a light source behind the ruler.
If, after looking between the ruler and the stone, we see a gap, then the stone needs to be corrected on the working surface

Another abrasive is used for leveling. This is either an abrasive in a bundle (other stones of larger grain size, sandpaper, abrasive mesh), or free grain applied with water to the lap.
Aligning stones is similar to sharpening. It is necessary not only to level the surface and give it the desired roughness. Therefore, we start with coarse grains, smooth out the flatness of the block, and then use skins or powders to bring the surface to the desired degree of roughness. The finishing grain is usually times the grain size of the stone being leveled. It is necessary to keep the surface working, with cutting grains, and not overpolished. Although, when working with smaller grains, we may well begin to tear out pieces from the leveled surface.

Professional (Jumapili)  SHARPENING FOR BEGINNERS 12

SOZH, LIKE HEALTHY LIFE - ALTHOUGH YOU DO NOT LOVE IT, BUT IT IS NECESSARY.

Coolant is an abbreviation for cutting fluids.
Why are they needed? And are they needed? Let's consider the components of coolant reduction.
Let's start with the fact that when long work blade on a block, both can get hot. Temperatures are low, but narrow section edges this can be very concentrated and fatal overheating. It’s not for nothing that some of the best mesanized sharpening machines are those that are low-revving and water-cooled, like Tormek, Shinko and their analogues.
Lubrication is understandable. The blade moves across a moistened stone with less effort and is easier to control. But pour coolant without fanaticism, otherwise you will end up with a roller and not an abrasive surface.
And thirdly, the ground abrasive must be removed somewhere. If the stone is dry, then its cutting pores will quickly become clogged, the stone will become greasy and stop working. That's why many stones are used only with coolant. Without it, they simply don’t work. And the wetted surface gets clogged less, the worked metal is retained in it, the stone works better longer and faster. It’s not a sin to even wet diamonds so that you don’t have to clean them later when they become clogged.
It’s not for nothing that many stones are called water stones. Depending on the bundle, they work at different speeds, but dry ones will begin to crumble more easily. And the moistened ones do not disappear before our eyes, but work. And the broken abrasive in water continues to work, forming an abrasive suspension, which in some cases speeds up the process. Although the suspension is also a very thin matter. In some places it is desirable, but in others it is better to wash it off.
So coolant makes working on stone easier, eliminates local overheating of the edge during long-term monotonous work, improves the performance of stones, reduces clogging and wear various types stones.
The most common coolants: water, soapy water, mineral oils. In some cases, natural ones, if not taken care of, can become polarized and ruin the work surface. It will have to be re-ground. Besides different types Coolants have different effects on the result: on one stone, water can give a finish of 7,000 grit, while a drop of oil rubbed over the surface gives an effect of 10,000 grit or even higher.
This is a useful thing called coolant.

Professional (Jumapili)  SHARPENING FOR BEGINNERS No. 13.
FINISHING OPERATIONS. WHY IS ARKANSAS SO VALUE.

It is quite fair to call finishing operations the sharpener’s most important task, when after sharpening we impart STABILITY to the edge. Personally, I separate the functions of polishing and finishing. When polishing, Arkansas can create a matte finish, while the edge will be very resistant. A mirror edge can be obtained on a very small diamond, but such mega sharpness will not last long. Not practical. And in this regard, ordinary pastes are inferior to STROKING.
Let's take a closer look at the concept of fine-tuning. During the sharpening process, by reducing the grain size of the abrasive, we reduce the risks it leaves behind. Risks -essentially its microcracks. THE BIGGER THEY ARE, THE MORE STRONGER THE METAL WILL CRASH AT THE MICROLEVEL. Accordingly, it is advisable to remove them completely. Smooth the surface.
A simple example from practice. I took simple kitchen knives (like German ones, which are plentiful in all stores) made of not the hardest steel. I sharpened at one angle, but one finished on 2000 grit sandpaper, and the second on a thin diamond paste of 0.5 microns, which is about 30,000 grit. It was scary to cut sharpened on a diamond, the hair was planed on the fly. Yes, only after cutting on the board, the finished one on the sandpaper still cut the same way, and the edge finished on diamond sparkled along its entire length. Diamond grains have sharp edges, and the risks are deep. They cut not only matrices, but also carbides. And the edge is in the mirror. So, alas, a mirror is not an indicator of quality.

Why do they love Arkansas? High degree of homogeneity of grains adjacent to one another. You can iron the edge evenly. The stone is hard and does not wear out, which is good for finishing. Works faster than many others natural stones. Abrasive grains are more rounded. They not only cut metal, but also press it. Steel at the micro level is very ductile.
Therefore, Arkansas, faster than many other finishers, allows you to obtain both sharp and cutting edges, as well as EDGES WITH A REINFORCED LAYER. That is, by hardening.

What is hardening? This is the reason for dancing with tambourines on different stones and a topic worthy of a separate post.

Tags: How to properly sharpen knives on an electric sharpener video

Perhaps everything is too simple, but for budget knives it’s just right.

how to sharpen on a sharpener correctly | Topic author: Ivan

Zoya  If you mean sharpening on a Roman whetstone or on an electric knife sharpener, then it’s easier to show than to tell... Okay, I'll try. Take the knife more tightly into your hand. If you have a block, you will have to hold it with your other hand when sharpening. Then sharply draw one side of the blade along the block, then the other, turning the knife ALONG the blade towards you, holding the blade under small angle to the block. If you have an electric sharpener, then move the entire blade of the knife alternately along the side surface of the emery stone, again holding the blade at a slight angle to the stone.
Check the sharpness periodically: if you turn the knife with the very edge of the blade towards you and look at it in the light, there should be no light stripes on it. If they exist, keep sharpening.

Vladislav  You mean sharpening knives?
You need a suitable abrasive and sharpening angles that are not very small - they quickly become dull.
The scissors have a sharpening angle of 35 degrees.